BB7 Adjustor Locked Out- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    BB7 Adjustor Locked Out

    I was playing with my BB7's preparing to install and now the small click wheel simply does not work anymore. The pad of the small click wheel is touching the other pad and no matter how far I turn either way it just stays there. How do I fix this?

  2. #2
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    did you turn it all the way "in"? if you did you hyperextended the piston and they are really hard to get back in. I'f you are really mechanicaly inclined pop it apart and fix it if not ......to your lbs you go. (trust me on this I did it myself)
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  3. #3
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    Sounds like the piston head has come un-seated from the rest of the piston mechanism. I've done this before by turning the adjuster all the way in without any pads in the brake. It just needs to be popped back into place, although sometimes this can take a frustrating amount of attempts.

  4. #4
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    any tips on how to get it back in without taking it apart and If I do need to take it is the job hard.

  5. #5
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    the head on the fixed side with the larger knob can be completely removed to give you more direct access to the piston you are working on. Its just one solid piece that screws right out, so nothing complicated to worry about

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    the head on the fixed side with the larger knob can be completely removed to give you more direct access to the piston you are working on. Its just one solid piece that screws right out, so nothing complicated to worry about
    The pad is still in there though, so I cant really get to it.

    I dound this on the sram site

    troubleshooting (not pictured)
    The most common issue with the BB7 is that the
    outboard pressure foot can become dislodged if
    the outboard adjustment knob is turned too far
    clockwise without the rotor in the caliper (wheel
    off or caliper removed). The brake is not broken,
    nor does it require disassembly to replace the
    pressure foot. To replace the pressure foot, turn
    the outboard adjuster knob counter-clockwise
    until it stops. If the knob doesn’t stop, then the
    foot screw (the end of which can be seen in the
    center of the knob) has become disengaged
    from the knob and possibly from the threads
    inside the drive cam. In this case, remove the
    knob, then using a pair of small needle-nosed
    pliers or a schrader valve tool, turn the the foot
    screw all the way back out until it stops. Now
    the pressure foot can be replaced. Relocate the
    pressure foot into the bore, then give it a firm
    push in the center. It will click back into place.
    If you removed the knob, replace it and you’re
    done!
    the problem is the pads are still in. If I turn clockwise it does stop but I cant relocate the pressure foot.
    Last edited by mikep7779; 11-20-2009 at 08:38 PM.

  7. #7
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    pull the pads out silly!!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  8. #8
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    They don't come out they are locked in by the piston. Ive tried pulling, the pads are locked dead agaist the bigger knob,

  9. #9
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    'gravity check' them
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikep7779
    They don't come out they are locked in by the piston. Ive tried pulling, the pads are locked dead agaist the bigger knob,
    I wouldn't think they could jam with the inner pad dialed all the way into the caliper...but then I've never tried to do that. Just in case, when you get a hydraulic disc brake, do not pull the lever without the disc or spacer/block in between the pads ... OTOH if you have the two piece caliper body, you could just take it apart since it sounds like you found the manual.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  11. #11
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    I did this exact same thing to my BB7 last summer and, like bikinfool suggested, I unscrewed the caliper halves and easily pulled the pads out that way. If you have an older 1-piece then I don't know what to say

  12. #12
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    the problem with just taking it apart is the actuating arm is directly infront of the bolt. No way to get in there.

  13. #13
    Old man on a bike
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    That's because that's step 8, removing the arm comes before that. Guess you didn't read the manual yet? It's right after the part you quoted...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  14. #14
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    I understand now and I fixed it right up. Thanks for the help.


    One thing though how long does it take for the pads to wear in, I made around 35 stops and while stop 35 was drastically better than stop 5, they are still not as good as my BB5's. Also what's the best way to fix a warped rotor?

  15. #15
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    Hard to say what you're experiencing after 35 stops over the internet, but you still may not have fully bedded the pads in, some contamination might be present, or you may need to do some other tweaking on setup. It usually doesn't take me that many stops but I do my bedding-in going downhill in a series of brake applications, once they're working fairly well then I go ride and don't think much about it. I true my rotors with a small adjustable wrench closed around the rotor and gently bend back the high spots using the caliper as a guide.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  16. #16
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    I don't think there is contamination, I wore gloves and completely cleaned the rotor with rubbing alcohol before hand.

  17. #17
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    The pads the same type? Organic or metallic on both?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  18. #18
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    the pads are what the bb7's come with, which I think is sintered. I tried to true the rotor with a medium size wrench covered in tape and it didn't work very well. No real difference when I found the bent portion and r and pulled and held on that location. When one engages the brake should the rotor move at all(from side to side horizontally).
    Last edited by mikep7779; 11-23-2009 at 07:17 PM.

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