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  1. #1
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    Avid Juicy 5 Question/Tips

    I just got my Juicy 5's and I noticed that the pads aren't open wide enough to fit over the rotors. I read a thread about this a little bit ago, but after searching I can't seem to find it. The pads are also pretty hard to take out. I was thinking about getting a set of Avid Clean Sweep Rotors because I have some Tektro Wavy ones, would this help? I already know that I'm going to have to rebleed them anyways, so does anyone have tips for opening them up to fit onto the rotors?

    - Joe

  2. #2
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    Try pushing the pistons back into their bores by inserting a screwdriver between the pads and rocking gently to work them back in. If one piston goes in, and the other comes out, the system is overfilled. You'll have to open the bleedport at the lever while resetting the pistons. Any excess fluid will be pushed out when you push the pistons back in. Make sure the lever is parallel to the ground and higher than the caliper.

  3. #3
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    will I need a bleed kit for this or do I just need some little wrenches for this? How do I reset the pistons too?

  4. #4
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    You should not need a bleed kit as long as you don't introduce any air to the system. The bleed port uses a small torx wrench, I want to say it's a t20, but don't quote me on that. Try resetting the pistons first. To reset the pistons, just insert a slotted screwdriver between the pads and rock them back and forth gently until the pads are pushed all the way back against the caliper.

  5. #5
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    It seems that one of the pistons is very hard to push in, while the other is all the way in. I also can't manage to fit the screwdriver in without kind of scratching the pads? I guess I'll try what you said about opening it up and reseting the pistons. Could you give me a quick description of how to do that XSL_WiLL?

    Thanks for the help

  6. #6
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    I just did it to my J7's. Take the caliper off the bike (just to make it easier to handle) and take the pads out (or you'll gouge them with the screw driver). Once the pads are out, insert the screw driver and pry the pads back. If one goes all the way in and the other won't (EXACTLY what mine was doing), you have too much fluid in the system. Rotate the lever on the bar so that it is horizontal - keep the caliper LOWER than the lever at all times - put a rag around the bleed screw on the lever and loosen it (no need to completely remove it) - with the bleed screw loose, pry the pistons all the way back into the caliper (they should go flush with the caliper housing) - this will push a bit of fluid out of the loose bleed screw (wipe this up cause it will remove paint!) - tighten the bleed screw - reinstall the pads - reinstall the caliper and re-center it.

    Hope that helps.

    Dan

  7. #7
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    well, I did exactly as WiLL said and it worked out perfectly. I think i might of hurt the pads a little bit but those can be replaced. There happened to be a good amount of fluid in mine, and now that I've done it, the breaks are perfect. The information was exactly what I was looking for. I didn't get to your post Dan, but that is also to each step what I did. (Just didn't take out the pads). I'm about to go do it to my other break. Thanks for the help

    - Joe

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe.MTB
    well, I did exactly as WiLL said and it worked out perfectly. I think i might of hurt the pads a little bit but those can be replaced. There happened to be a good amount of fluid in mine, and now that I've done it, the breaks are perfect. The information was exactly what I was looking for. I didn't get to your post Dan, but that is also to each step what I did. (Just didn't take out the pads). I'm about to go do it to my other break. Thanks for the help

    - Joe
    One small detail, Joe. just make sure you didn't contaminate the pads and clean everything with isopropyl alcohol before burning the pads in again....

  9. #9
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    Little scratches and gouges in the pad are no big deal.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Little scratches and gouges in the pad are no big deal.
    I understand that... I just mean to make sure no DOT or grease made contact with the pads...

  11. #11
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    Yeah, nothing touched the pads except for the screw driver. The only marks on the pads are on the top from trying to get the flat head screwdriver in.

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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by joe.MTB
    Yeah, nothing touched the pads except for the screw driver. The only marks on the pads are on the top from trying to get the flat head screwdriver in.
    Good to go then!

  13. #13
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    Can anyone recommend a good rotors for the Juicy 5's or is it just preference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joe.MTB
    Can anyone recommend a good rotors for the Juicy 5's or is it just preference.

    I have read good reports on Galfer rotors (somewhat expensive though), I think most "name brand" rotors will be fine, so it is mostly preference...

  15. #15
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    sounds good. I've never heard of Galfe rotors though. I might just try and go with some Hope rotors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joe.MTB
    sounds good. I've never heard of Galfe rotors though. I might just try and go with some Hope rotors.

    I have used normal (no aluminum carrier) Hope rotors on my XTs without problems

  17. #17
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    these look interesting. Not sure how they would work though, and they seem pretty light. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...inumsteel.aspx

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe.MTB
    these look interesting. Not sure how they would work though, and they seem pretty light. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...inumsteel.aspx

    do a search on "hope floating rotors"... some calipers have clearance problems with them... I don't know if the Juicy is one of them... better check..

  19. #19
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    I did a quick search on that and I am surprised that there was a good amount regarding conflicting problems with the floating rotors and calipers. Some people ended up filing off some of their caliper and I'm not sure if I'm up to that. I'll do some more searching for the juicy 5's though. The floating rotors look sick thogh too.

  20. #20
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    If anyone does have an experience with the Hope floating rotors and the Juicy 5's feel free to chime in

  21. #21
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    203mm Hope 2 piece rotors with J7s sitting on machined down Hayes adapters. You'll almost definitely need to make some modifications. The carrier and the rivets are pretty wide.

  22. #22
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    Is there any conflicts with running Avid juicy 5's with hayes v-cut rotors? Thanks for any help in advance.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by philonwheels
    Is there any conflicts with running Avid juicy 5's with hayes v-cut rotors? Thanks for any help in advance.

    As you long as your adapters match the rotor(s) size(s), they should be fine...

  24. #24
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    Yea they're the same. Thanks for that.
    The hayes rotors are from my old brakes and they aren't gonna come of the wheels without a bit of help with a drill! (couple of bolt heads gone)
    ...This has swayed me into keeping the hayes rotors as they're pretty true, I have the clean sweeps that came with the five's but I've heard they can squeal a bit which is swaying me even more, any truth in that?

  25. #25
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    Usually the clean sweeps help in getting rid of the squealing (but it persists in some setups) I run a 185mm cleansweep rotor on Shimano LX brakes without issues (never had issues on my bb7s either)

  26. #26
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    i don't feel like chancing it with the hopes, so I'll stick with the clean sweeps.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Try pushing the pistons back into their bores by inserting a screwdriver between the pads and rocking gently to work them back in. If one piston goes in, and the other comes out, the system is overfilled. You'll have to open the bleedport at the lever while resetting the pistons. Any excess fluid will be pushed out when you push the pistons back in. Make sure the lever is parallel to the ground and higher than the caliper.
    I've seen this damage pads before, so isn't it best to remove the pads and lever the bare pistons back?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc
    I've seen this damage pads before, so isn't it best to remove the pads and lever the bare pistons back?
    If would be best, but not absolutely necessary if done carefully ... personally I always remove them...

  29. #29
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    I've gouged the crap out of my pads every time I've tried to push the pistons back with the pads installed. They're easy to remove / install and I found the extra space with which to work on the pistons made the task a bit easier - take 'em out.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wddamf
    I've gouged the crap out of my pads every time I've tried to push the pistons back with the pads installed. They're easy to remove / install and I found the extra space with which to work on the pistons made the task a bit easier - take 'em out.
    Sometimes there isn't enough space to take them out. And besides, a little gouge isn't really going to be all that detrimental.

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