Avid Code initial set up suggestions?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Avid Code initial set up suggestions?

    So, I've been a Shimano/Hope hydro user for about 6 years. Awesome stuff, but after riding my bro's bike last summer I was impressed with how powerful his Codes were and decided to get a set for my DH bike.

    I feel pretty comfortable with setting up brakes, but was wondering if there are any suggestions that I may need to follow and insure the Codes are set up correctly. I've read that they are a bit more finicky and wanted to get it right from the get go. Any input would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: NoManerz's Avatar
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    I would bleed them with some good brake fluid, Motul 5.1 is an excellent choice. You can mix dot 4 and dot 5.1, don't be confused with dot 5, which you can not mix or run period in the codes. I went through this whole process of researching fluids not long ago. The stock avid fluid went bad on me after a few downhill blasts within the first month. After a fresh flush and bleed with the Motul fluid, l have worry free brakes again.

    I also bought a pair of the metallic pads, run one metallic and one organic in each caliper, for an even more powerful feeling but yet still nice and modulated.

    Follow the directions from the book for the bleeding process, they are good. Just remember to turn the red dial all the way out, then turn it back in a click or two. You can sometimes have problems bleeding the codes with the red dial all the way out, fluid just will not want to go into the system sometimes. With a click or two in it solves the problem.

  3. #3
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    I'm going out on a limb resurrecting an old thread with a seemingly dumb question - I was just bleeding my new codes after cutting the hoses. In the instructions Avid doesn't mention using the pad spacers during the bleeding process. I bled the front without using the spacer and the rear with it. The rear ended up being too spongey and the front pads needed to be spread with a screwdriver with the bleed screw open to purge a little fluid. Does anyone know the correct way? In the photos and instructions there's no mention of using the spacer...

  4. #4
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    You don't have to use the spacer, you just have to reset the pistons before bleeding. If you have the syringe open, the fluid flows into the syringe and there is no pressure exerted on the pistons.

    Sounds like you just have a bit of air left in the rear. Tap the lines and caliper as you are bleeding.

  5. #5
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    in the instructions, when bleeding the lever they suggest you pump the lever several times - this brings the pads together doesn't it??

  6. #6
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    xsl, did you see the last question?

  7. #7
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    You're just stroking it a little bit to free up any air bubbles. At this point, you shouldn't be forcing any more fluid through, just drawing a vacuum to pull up any air bubbles. If the pistons do move... it should be insignificant or they should return to their starting positions.

  8. #8
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    ah! understood... i was reefing on it all the way down - therefore the pistons were closing. i'll try it the other way next time. for now i actually got them working pretty well... now to get them nicely centered to eliminate rub - the avid way never works for that! Thanks XSL (is that a DB xsl?)

  9. #9
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    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    If the pistons do move out and you accidentally overfill the system, it's fairly easy to bleed off excess fluid. Just level out the lever, open up the bleed port, reset the pistons, close it up, wipe up the fluid that gets pushed out.

    For centering them... yeah, you have to fidget a bit with the CPS stack.

    Yeah. I used to have a Diamondback XSL back in 2004. It was alright. I've been through a few bikes since then... a 04 Norco Six and a 07 Norco Six. A 04 Coiler. A Surly Instigator. A Haro Escape. A couple BMX bikes. A Big(s)hit. A Switch. And now I'm riding an Addict Cycles. I worked at shops... so I built up new bikes pretty often. I always have parts sitting around.




    Never took a picture in it's final iteration. I dropped it off a roof and it held up alright... but it was mostly a trail bike.

    Stratos rear shock, Sherman up front, XTR drivetrain, RaceFace Prodigy DH cranks, Hayes HFX-9s, Ritchey post, Azonic stem, etc.

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