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  1. #1
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    2012 Magura MT8 pics

    These just arrived and will go on my Mojo SL early next week when I get back from the Bahamas.


  2. #2
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    You put an S at pics...
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  3. #3
    STEEL IS REAL
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    Glad to see that somebody is thriving during the depression. If you can afford MT8s and spend time in the Bahamas, you got it pretty good...
    life is... "All About Bikes"...

  4. #4
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    Nice. Look forward to the ride report.

  5. #5
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    Mine arrive Monday.... Mmmmm..Mmmmm good!

    BTW.. we're going to give them time on several different bikes and I'll report back. Hopefully crashworthiness wont be on the report
    Monte
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    Glad to see that somebody is thriving during the depression. If you can afford MT8s and spend time in the Bahamas, you got it pretty good...
    Some parts of the U.S. are doing quite well actually (very few but they do exist). Those are awesome looking brakes and I look forward to following any forthcoming information/reviews.
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  7. #7
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    let us know your report.......
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  8. #8
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    UPS Man left me a present!!!! I have been busy guiding all week but I'll mount them up Friday.
    Monte
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  9. #9
    Dave's not here.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    Glad to see that somebody is thriving during the depression. If you can afford MT8s and spend time in the Bahamas, you got it pretty good...
    You can get these too! Just don't pay your mortgage/rent, car payment and several other bills and you're all set! I do this all the time and just stick it to the man.








    Disclaimer: I don't do this all the time. In fact, I don't do it at all. I am a good person and pay all my bills on time all the time. That is why I sport Deore. Cheap and they stop me just fine. So, don't get all up in my stank claiming this or that.

  10. #10
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    Short ride this afternoon on a single track trail with some slick rock. Not much elevation change... Did the "bed the pads in" thing.. Gonna do about 20 miles tomorrow and we'll see how they work. Bike is a Salsa Big Mama 160/180 rotors.
    Monte
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil View Post
    You put an S at pics...
    I know right? Sheesh. Guess he's still on vacation...

  12. #12
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    Just got some in and weighed them on my gram scale.

    Lever, hose (180 cm) and caliper are 195g.

    Anyone know the R1 weight for lever, hose and caliper?

    Can't wait to get these on a bike and ride them. I loved the Magura Marta SL Mags.

  13. #13
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    So far..

    Have about 40 miles in on them. The rear (with a Storm rotor) sqeeked pretty loudly. i cleaned the rotor and it seems to have gone away.

    The carbon levers flex and this can be felt at the end of lever travel. It's not good or bad just a different feeling from my other Magura brakes (BAT Louise, Marta SL).

    Feel and modulation is excellent and I am able to easily control the front and rear right up to lock up with one finger on slick rock, hard pack and loose over hard with no drama.

    Tomorrow... we'll get them nice and hot and see how they handle it.
    Monte
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  14. #14
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    enough waiting already...need more real reviews of the whole new line!


    I'm esp. interested in the MT6 -- lighter and cheaper than XTR I believe
    Riding: '91 Carbon Epic Stumpjumper w/1" Slicks and a Rack on the Back

  15. #15
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    MT8 Update......

    I have been riding these in Sun Valley and the Tetons for ten days.

    These are mounted on a 30 lb FS 29er and I'm at about 190 with gear. I'm using 160/180 Magura rotor combo

    The riding has consisted of typical alpine style riding... long climbs and then buff single track and often ripping downhill runs.

    Feel is consistently excellent (even at the end of a long fast decent when they are very hot) and pretty much the same as the Marta SL..which is a good thing. These are easy to modulate and I am able to modulate the real wheel right up to impending lock-up easily and consistently regardless of terrain.

    On long downhills brake performance has been excellent and fade free. I am still chasing a bit of a squeal from the rear brake that comes and goes.

    For me a good brake is one that I don't notice... Basically it does what it is supposed to do when asked to do so day after day with no drama. Reliability is still a question and after living with these for six months to a year we'll know more in that department but if itís typical of my previous Magura experiences these are mount them and forget them.

    IMO these are excellent brakes which deliver as advertised. These are especially great if you are a gram counter and/or want the top of the line premium product in which case the price of admission is somewhat easier to justify.
    Monte
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  16. #16
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    my mt8s are working out well. I was getting some grabbiness from the front with both types of pad but fortunately the pads are dead simple to pull out, with the wheel on the bike even. Every few rides a quick wipe down with alcohol and rotors every ride and the brakes run perfect. Pistons do exactly what they are supposed to do have required no maintenance.

  17. #17
    offroader
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    This thread is somewhat anti climatic

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CupOfJava View Post
    This thread is somewhat anti climatic
    oops i think you clicked on the wrong site, you wanted the naked man porn site for that

  19. #19
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Excellent and thanks for trying the newest from Magura!

    Next time you are dealing with a little squeel, try stopping, removing the pads and flipping them to the apposing side, meaning swap the pads within the caliper, one side to the other. The pads are not side specific so this is an easy test.

    Good luck and thanks for flying the flag!
    Jude

  20. #20
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    Love my new MT8's, so glad I went with these and will concur, excellent modulation and fade free feel combined with superlative design. One thing I liked about my old Marta sl's is that I could run the pads down to nothing and to compensate would just add a bit of fluid in the easy access reservoir... not sure how I'll deal with it or how low I can run the pads on the new MT8's (without adding fluid), no easy access other than the bleed port... any suggestions?

  21. #21
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Well I am NOT condoning this but in reality you could do the same thing (adding too much fluid) into the system by attaching a filled syringe to the caliper (with the EBT at the MC closed and not removed) and activate the pads with the syringe by pushing, adding fluid to the system (over filling in reality.)
    As long as you are the one wrenching on the system and understand what you did, you can remember that when replacing with new, "fatter" pads and will need to make room when that time comes.

    Good luck and thanks for picking the MT8! Bad Ass!
    Jude

  22. #22
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    That's a new one. I've been running Marta SL's for 3 years now and never had any problem running the pads down to the replacement point WITHOUT adding fluid.

  23. #23
    Live fast. die younG.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CupOfJava View Post
    This thread is somewhat anti climatic
    It's not if you were looking for a thread started as a thinly disguised way of bragging about having a lot of money and/or debt.

    Hopefully some good info will show up to make this thread un-worthless

  24. #24
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    Thanks judem', I was figuring that's what I'd try and yes I'm the wrencher... Betarad this only really comes into play when you pass the point of recommend wear, coupled with wearing rotors... and like jm DON'T condone this practice unless you are the wrencher and inspect your brakes frequently (like after every ride) also an element of this equation is overall weight and riding style, I weigh 170 geared and ride a 22lb cross country bike... I look forward to riding these new MT8's for many moons and am sure I'll get used to any wrenching differences between them and the old (is) mount Marta sl... I will say post mount is much easier to adjust 'just right'...

  25. #25
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    has anyone noticed the reduced power vs the marta sl's (or magnesium sl's) with the MT8's? I have run marta sl's for years and they felt solid, but my MT8's seem "mushy" and lack the definitive power that I was used to. These MT8's are about 6 months old and I use a 180/160mm rotor on my FS 29er..

    any advise would be welcomed before I sell these and go back to my marta's...

    thanks in advance!
    just ride... who cares how big your wheels are

  26. #26
    Maromero
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    Quote Originally Posted by 24hrsordie View Post
    has anyone noticed the reduced power vs the marta sl's (or magnesium sl's) with the MT8's? I have run marta sl's for years and they felt solid, but my MT8's seem "mushy" and lack the definitive power that I was used to. These MT8's are about 6 months old and I use a 180/160mm rotor on my FS 29er..

    any advise would be welcomed before I sell these and go back to my marta's...

    thanks in advance!
    I've been using them for about 4 months, coming from Marta Mag's I couldn't tell if there was less power on them. They are on a Flux with 160/140 Storm rotors, with Ti bolts. Maybe a bleed would help?

  27. #27
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hello 24hrsordie

    You could possibly have an early set of MT's with early production pads. We noticed some inconsistency with the early pad compounds and therefore have had some lack of power feedback from a few early customers.

    Are you still on the first set of pads?

    Secondly, you mentioned "spongy." Shouldn't be! They do have a tiny bit more lever stroke but shouldn't feel spongy at all. Makes me think that possibly only one of the two caliper pistons are freely moving. I would check that first by "re-animating" or exercising both caliper pistons then rechecking for brake feel and power.
    Jude

  28. #28
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    I switched from a 7 year old pair of Marta sl's (which still had that solid feel). The new MT8's seem to have plenty of fade free power with great modulation however, my opinion is that there is more flex in the MT8 lever design compared to the Martas--although with a thorough bleed it certainly doesn't translate into a mushy feel or powerless transfer. My guess is the is that the flex or give at the end of range is inherent to the light weight design and material and probably allows some of the unneeded/extra force to dissipate instead of stressing the system. For me at 170 geared with a 22lb bike it takes very little force to manage my speed... again check if your bleed is solid and the pads and rotors are clean.

  29. #29
    Lessinia expert
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    I'm evaluating to upgrade from Marta Magnesium to MT8. I'm currently using the Storm SL rotors. What's the real weight save of such upgrade?
    Italian Marathon biker who collected Prestigio MTB award in 2010-2011-2012!

  30. #30
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    Yeah, I'm hoping my problem is the pads. I don't think they have been contaminated but Jude has informed me that they had a batch of bad pads in early production so I'm hoping that improves my stopping power. I too weigh 170lbs but have found myself doing a deathgrip on my brakes to prevent me from plowing into trees. I'm hoping the pads improve their performance.
    MCH Co-Captain

  31. #31
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    For those already using the MT8 or MT6 (I'll have MT6 on my Mojo SL-R delivered in January): what kind of brake pads (type 1 Performance or type 2 Endurance)? What are the pro/contr. of both?

  32. #32
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    Clicky Sound

    Hello. A few weeks ago I went for a pair of MT6 after dealing with an Sramm XX breaks (pads always rubbing, constant bleeding), I have cut the line and bleeded the brakes without any problem (great video in youtube Jude). Right now my concern is about a clicky sound when I start pulling the lever, I can feel a little play in the bushing shown in picture.
    Is that related to all mt6-8 brakes or my levers have a defective loose bushing ??? : confused:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Magura MT8 pics-mt6.jpg  


  33. #33
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    I have found no negative MT8 reviews anywhere on line, and so thought maybe it was just me, but after several months with these on my Santa Cruz Highball, I am finally ready to give up on them and buy something else. These brakes are so weak that my hands cramp after a couple of hours of hard riding. I have ruled out air by having them serviced and then double checked, and have tried three different types of pads. They work OK, but they are far from strong. I hopped on my friend's XTR equipped bike the other day, and nearly flipped over the front when I touched the levers the first time, so I just ordered a set of those. I have Avid Juicys on my Ibis Mojo SL, and they don't make me endo like the XTRs, but they're much MUCH stronger than the MT8s. The MT8s are so light and so awesome looking on the Highball that I have wanted so badly to like them, but they are ebay-bound now.
    Last edited by kines; 04-11-2012 at 06:59 PM. Reason: typo

  34. #34
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hello dr efaz

    That clicking sound is coming from the interface of the adjuster bolt and the master piston itself and not from your arrow on the photo.
    That interface I mention is a ball and socket affair and if the lever blade is adjusted inward or closer to the grip, the lever blade can be physically pushed outward and "pop" the ball joint from the socket.
    If this happens a few times, It could possibly cause enough wear ( just like a human dislocation) to let it get a little sloppy.
    Then when the lever blade snaps back after a quick flick of the blade, it sets itself up for the sound or "click" when the lever is then pulled.
    Typically, the slop is due to the lack of grease which gets washed away or dries up and that is easy solution. You will need to remove the lever blade in order to dab some replacement grease back into the socket but lever removal is a straight forward affair.

    Let me know if I need to explain a lever blade removal.
    Jude

  35. #35
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    The Type 1 is the "performance" and type 2 is "endurance."

    Both types base material is an organic with the metal particles being brass. The endurance have larger particles which helps endure harsher scenarios like wet weather and simply wear longer. Some say the performance has a quicker bite? I run an endurance in the rear and a performance in the front and find about even pad wear term-wise with this combo.

    A "sintered" pad has no other material aside from metal that has been fused together under intense pressure and/or heat and is good in many ways. It's down side is more heat, rotor-wear and less modulation typically.
    Jude

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_efaz View Post
    Hello. A few weeks ago I went for a pair of MT6 after dealing with an Sramm XX breaks (pads always rubbing, constant bleeding), I have cut the line and bleeded the brakes without any problem (great video in youtube Jude). Right now my concern is about a clicky sound when I start pulling the lever, I can feel a little play in the bushing shown in picture.
    Is that related to all mt6-8 brakes or my levers have a defective loose bushing ??? : confused:
    I have very similar situation in my MT6- clicky sound and little loose on lever's bushing.
    It's not a big problem for me ,but IMO shouldn't be.

  37. #37
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    Tried the MT8's but didn't liked how the brake lever was so flexy and the thing felt so fragile, so went for the MT6's. With Ti rotor bolts they are almost the same weight as the MT8's, have a much less flexy blade and for the price difference i even upgraded my secondary bike from BB7's to MT2's. Not bad !

  38. #38
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    None

    All ok now
    Last edited by randalnelson; 04-26-2012 at 08:26 PM. Reason: OK

  39. #39
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    I thought I had posted a reply, but don't see it, so I'm typing it again with apologies if another one just like this shows up somewhere.....

    My LBS put on some aftermarket pads that took care of the noise, but not the lack of power. I finally just took care of that problem myself by installing XTRs. The XTRs are more powerful than the MT8s by perhaps an order of magnitude! Well, at least double. If the XTRs aren't making me faster, they sure feel like it, and for certain they are suddenly making me love this bike (SC Highball) again!

    The fact that all or at least most MT8 owners and reviewers aren't saying the same thing leaves me with 3 possible explanations:

    1) I got a defective batch. This seems unlikely after twice being serviced by a highly qualified shop and consultation with Magura.
    2) Most MT8 owners either don't require much stopping power for whatever reason, or at least a lack thereof doesn't bother them.
    3) It's the "Emperor's New Clothes" phenomenon. I know that I certainly rode them for months wanting very badly to like them because they are so light and so bling. I was lucky enough that I didn't have to pay for them, but if I had dropped MSRP on these, I think it would have amplified this effect further.

    I also convinced myself that 29er vs. 26 made a difference, where the greater diameter of the wheel made it harder to stop, but now I've ruled out that idea by putting XTRs on!

    Anyhow, I won't go on and on, because I don't want to risk diminishing their value on ebay! ;-)

    KN

  40. #40
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    If you guys are having problems with these brakes switch the pads to Koolstop pads. They made a world of difference for me. The pull is shorter and performance is incredible compared to anything else I've ever used. I just wish they sold these pads with the brakes instead of the sintered pads.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    If you guys are having problems with these brakes switch the pads to Koolstop pads. They made a world of difference for me. The pull is shorter and performance is incredible compared to anything else I've ever used. I just wish they sold these pads with the brakes instead of the sintered pads.
    Did you go with D160A or D160B?

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelly_NH View Post
    Did you go with D160A or D160B?
    I've been using the red ones (organic), but I just received a new set from Magura so I'll be bedding them in tomorrow.
    Last edited by dirtyjack; 04-23-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by kines View Post
    I have found no negative MT8 reviews anywhere on line, and so thought maybe it was just me, but after several months with these on my Santa Cruz Highball, I am finally ready to give up .
    that's too bad. I find the mt 8 w/ 203 & 180 combo with newish pads to be pretty sick, more than enough power for me; and that's riding with high traction surfaces so it takes a bunch of speed before it will lock it up. The back brake has been a champ, no noises, no vibes no gabbiness. The front on the other hand gets grabby after 4 or 5 rides even with a sterilized rotor every ride. So i am using the $6 disco brakes semi metallic pads for avid elixir and switching them out every 200 miles, which is better in the scheme of things than working 30$ pads forever and past when they work right. The front xx i had was the same but that thing was impossible to set up, let alone keep working right. I like the maguras ez set up, and the rotors are cheap and generally true out of the box, and compared to the 2 piece shimano icetech totally ez to true. As much as i hate to add the weight i'm thinking of switching to a venti rotor on the front for increased consitency as those stay true and maybe even handle heat better

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    I've been using the red ones (organic), but I just received a new set from Magura so I'll be bedding them in tomorrow.
    I just bedded in a new set of magura organic pads and storm sl rotors. After just 5 stops they started feeling good, after 10 they were just as good as the koolstop's. I'll ride them tonight. (I too was running XX's. They are as fussy a brake as I have ever encountered).
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielsilva View Post
    Tried the MT8's but didn't liked how the brake lever was so flexy and the thing felt so fragile, so went for the MT6's. With Ti rotor bolts they are almost the same weight as the MT8's, have a much less flexy blade and for the price difference i even upgraded my secondary bike from BB7's to MT2's. Not bad !
    Hey man! I agree that they feel fragile...but they are not! I tested this on Monday when I went over the bars and landed on the front lever. I ended up with some scuffs on the reservoir, but the brakes are still humming along!

    The MT-8's did take a little care and feeding, but once we got them dialed in, I haven't had any issues. Just a couple of weeks ago, I was cruising down one of the mountain roads here in town hitting anywhere between 30-35 mph, and the MT-8's worked great! No fading, etc...

    They are great brakes, they just require a little patience to get set up correctly. A nice dinner and some light cuddling might help too!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Magura MT8 pics-photo.jpg  


  46. #46
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    @chrisgardner73

    You got me wrong ! I was just speaking about the brake blade itself, not the actual brake. I have a set of MT2, a set of MT6 and rode the MT8's a couple of km's to see how they felt and i'm almost positive that they all share the same lever body material ( or at least REALLY similar ! ). I just didn't liked the carbon lever, it flexes way too much for my tastes ( and thus gives the impression that is going to snap at any moment ) !

    After riding the MT2's on my enduro bike i can really say that they are one of the best, if not THE best, bang for the buck mtb brake right now. They function and feel the same way than my MT6's for a much less pricey tag. A bit heavy if you're a weight weenie ( they weight 404gr with 160mm Storm SL rotors and complete hardware, uncut ) but not really an issue on my AM/Enduro bike !

    REALLY happy with them. Does anyone know the *real* weight of the MT4's ?

  47. #47
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    Curious if you guys are seeing a long lever throw with these MT brakes?

    I own MT4s, and even with BAT it seems like the lever travels a good 20% before the pistons/pads actually start moving. I bled both F/R and am confident I did a good job. Both F and R feel the same and no amount of adjustment seems to shorten the throw enough to get rid of that initial 20% lever travel before the pads move.

  48. #48
    derp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelly_NH View Post
    Curious if you guys are seeing a long lever throw with these MT brakes?

    I own MT4s, and even with BAT it seems like the lever travels a good 20% before the pistons/pads actually start moving. I bled both F/R and am confident I did a good job. Both F and R feel the same and no amount of adjustment seems to shorten the throw enough to get rid of that initial 20% lever travel before the pads move.

    I do have something like that on the MT2's but nowhere like what you're feeling, just slightly. No problems on the MT6's. Just an FIY and based on my finds ( except the MT4's, i found these online ):

    Uncut hose, caliper, lever/MC and 2x caliper bolts ( steel ):

    MT2 - 279g
    MT4 - 260g
    MT6 - 233g
    MT8 - 208g

    Storm SL 160mm - 95g
    Storm 160mm - 114g

    2x caliper bolts ( steel ) - 11g
    6x steel rotor bolts - 13g
    FR IS adapter - 17g

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelly_NH View Post
    Curious if you guys are seeing a long lever throw with these MT brakes?

    I own MT4s, and even with BAT it seems like the lever travels a good 20% before the pistons/pads actually start moving. I bled both F/R and am confident I did a good job. Both F and R feel the same and no amount of adjustment seems to shorten the throw enough to get rid of that initial 20% lever travel before the pads move.
    The problem with the MT's is that when you use the bleed block to retract the pistons completely and then bleed the brake, it uses a bit of oil to get them to push out and contact the rotor when you squeeze the lever. That oil remains in the caliper, sometimes resulting in a less firm feel.

    Here's a bleed trick I've used to get a good firm lever feel:

    The Magura bleed block is about 10.3 mm thick. I cut 1"x1" blocks in increasing thicknesses from 9.8 to 10.2mm.

    When I bleed the brakes, I remove the pads and wheel, and try inserting the thinnest block between the pistons, working my way up to the block that fits snugly but doesn't cause the pistons to retract. I then bleed the brakes with that block in place.

    I've found that this creates a bit more space in the system for more oil, and the piston/pad doesn't have to travel as far to make contact with the rotor.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    The problem with the MT's is that when you use the bleed block to retract the pistons completely and then bleed the brake, it uses a bit of oil to get them to push out and contact the rotor when you squeeze the lever. That oil remains in the caliper, sometimes resulting in a less firm feel.

    Here's a bleed trick I've used to get a good firm lever feel:

    The Magura bleed block is about 10.3 mm thick. I cut 1"x1" blocks in increasing thicknesses from 9.8 to 10.2mm.

    When I bleed the brakes, I remove the pads and wheel, and try inserting the thinnest block between the pistons, working my way up to the block that fits snugly but doesn't cause the pistons to retract. I then bleed the brakes with that block in place.

    I've found that this creates a bit more space in the system for more oil, and the piston/pad doesn't have to travel as far to make contact with the rotor.
    I'll give this a shot tonight. Thanks for the tip!

  51. #51
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    So I tried this on the rear brake. I ended up using a stack of business cards, removing/adding cards until I had the right thickness.

    Overall result was better than it was before, but still some "mush" in the first 20% of the lever throw.

    I'm confident I'll get the feeling right with some more tweaking...

    It's a shame it takes this much work just to get it where I want it to be though...

  52. #52
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    self taught crash course in brake bleeding has turned out well for me, a little messy but i got it right. Surprisingly easy, i guess i should have bled the martas once or twice in 6 years,oh well. I ended up using 2 old pads with a dremell cut off wheel glued in the middle for a width of a hair less than the yellow block. Before i got one finger between the lever and the grip now it's 2 fingers and solid ,no squishy. It's time to invest in a microtorque wrench because 1st attempt it all blew out the top seal because it seems so fragile that i undertightened it

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    self taught crash course in brake bleeding has turned out well for me, a little messy but i got it right. Surprisingly easy, i guess i should have bled the martas once or twice in 6 years,oh well. I ended up using 2 old pads with a dremell cut off wheel glued in the middle for a width of a hair less than the yellow block. Before i got one finger between the lever and the grip now it's 2 fingers and solid ,no squishy. It's time to invest in a microtorque wrench because 1st attempt it all blew out the top seal because it seems so fragile that i undertightened it
    Sounds like another cool trick. I might just pick up an extra set of pads and bleed with both (sacrificial) new pads installed.

    Out of curiosity, which bleed kit do you use? The basic (two syringe) or the pro kit (hanging bottle + syringe)?

  54. #54
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    The reason I chose the block method is that you can tailor them to the gap based on the current thickness of the pads. So as the pads get older you can use a thinner block and still get a nice firm feel.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

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