Schwinn Rocket 1 or GT i-Drive 2.0- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1

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    Schwinn Rocket 1 or GT i-Drive 2.0

    Which XC bike should I get: the Schwinn Rocket 1 or the GT i-Drive 2.0? Comments and criticisms on either bike would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pics and specs.

    The Rocket 1


    Specifications:

    Frame: New Schwinn Iso-Drive suspended BB 4-bar proprietary design with 3.5" rear travel, custom butted 7005 aluminum, fully sealed external cartridge bearing pivots, new forged BB link and seat stay yoke, Zero Stack headset, forged dropouts with replaceable h
    Fork: New Rockshox Judy XC Magnesium lowers, 2-stage Coil / MCU Spring with Hydracoil Damping, Cr-Mo nitride stantions, preload adjustment, bootless, 100mm travel
    Rear Shock: RockShox BAR flexible tuning air spring w/ hydraulic dampening.
    Crankset: TruVativ Firex with 44-32-22 Alloy outer ring and ISIS drive
    Bottom Bracket: TruVativ ISIS drive sealed cartridge 68 x 113
    Pedals: Wellgo double sided clipless with cleats and reflectors
    Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX E-Type top-pull
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX Silver / Black
    Shifters: Shimano Deore SL-M510 9-speed Rapid Fire
    Freewheel: Shimano CS-HG70 9sp. index cassette 11-32
    Chain: Shimano CN-HG73 super narrow
    Rims: Alex TD-17 disc specific double wall anodized with stainless steel eyelets
    Tires: WTB 26" x 2.14" Mutano Raptor Race 60tpi Aqua DNA compound with Kevlar bead
    Front Hub: Formula Alloy Disc double sealed QR, 32H
    Rear Hub: Formula Alloy Disc Cassette double sealed 8-speed QR, 32H
    Spokes: Stainless steel 14 gauge
    Nipples: Brass CP
    Front Brake: Hayes HFX-9 Hydraulic disc w/ 6" rotor
    Rear Brake: Hayes HFX-9 Hydraulic disc w/ 6" rotor
    Brake Levers: Hayes HFX-9 Hydraulic levers
    Handlebar: Schwinn Butted Alum. 20 mm Rise, 9 degree bend, 620 mm wide
    Stem: Schwinn Ride Tuned TIG welded threadless ,10 degree rise with forged 4-bolt front load cap.
    Grips: Schwinn dual density MTB
    Headset: Tange Seiki Zero Stack sealed
    Saddle: WTB Laser V Comp
    Seat Post: New Schwinn Ride-Tuned Alloy with forged alloy head 27.2 x 350mm
    Seat Clamp: Alloy Low-Profile QR w/ forged clamp
    Extras: Seat post water bottle mounting clamps
    Color(s): Gloss Black
    Size(s): S-16", M-17", L-19", XL-21"

    The i-Drive 2.0


    Frame: GT 6061 heat treated full suspension i Drive frame with 4.5 inches of rear wheel travel. New zero stack headtube
    Rear Shock: Fox Float Air Shock withadjust
    Fork: Rock Shox Pilot SL 100 mm of travel with rebound ajdust and air tuned coil spring, alumonum butted steerer.
    Crankset: TruVativ Firex , ISIS driveAlloy Outer, 42,32,22
    Bottom Bracket: Truvativ Isis drive hollow spindle
    Pedals: Ritchey '03 Logic v.3 Comp Clipless pedal, with new Shimano 959 system
    Front Derailleur: Shimano Alivio
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
    Shifters: Shimano Deore 9-speed
    Cassette: SRAM Nine speed index cassette 12-32
    Chain: HG-72 Nine Speed
    Rims: Syncros "Big Box"32 hole CNC sidewall
    Tires: Front Tioga Factory XC Extreme 26 x 2.1Rear Factory XC26 x 1.95
    Front Hub: Shimano Disc
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX
    Spokes: Stainless steel14 gauge
    Nipples: Brass CP
    Front Brake: Shimano Mechanical disc brake
    Rear Brake: Shimano Mechanical disc brake
    Brake Levers: Shimano Deore Integrated
    Handlebar: Syncros,New 6061 Butted Alum Adventure bar with 50mm rise and 7 degree bend
    Stem: GT MTN, Tig welded threadless ,10 degree rise with 4-bolt face plate
    Grips: GT ATB
    Headset: Tange Zero Stack system for 1 1/8"
    Saddle: SDG Gran Prix
    Seat Post: SL Alloy Micro adjust
    Seat Clamp: GT Alum QR
    Size(s): S, M, L, XL

  2. #2

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    Why are you focussing on these two?

    I've got an i-drive. It was a nice bike in it's day but it is a bit weighty to be competitive in the fast world of XC. The most important consideration is the fit. The cockpit in the i-drive is forward more than most bikes I have been on and it required me to put a seat with a huge setback on it, to give me knee room.

    GT has replaced the i-drive, in it's XC line, with the ID XC line, which is basically the Schwinn ISO drive. They work on the same concept of moving the BB to eliminate pedal feedback, however it is done by swinging the BB on an arm, vs. rotating it in an eccentric. This makes for a simpler, lighter mechanism. I have no idea if it works as well.

    The ISO-drive was originally released on the Schwinn Delta-88...a horrible name IMHO (sounds like a gas-guzzler.)

    http://www.mtbr.com/tradeshow/interb...uctpage5.shtml

    http://www.bicycling.com/gear/review...1&family_id=41

    IMHO, if you are thinking of racing you should look at some of the lighter bikes that have suspensions designed to reduce or eliminate bob.

  3. #3

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    Because they are the best deals for under $1100 (for me anyway)

    Thanks for responding Disaster:

    As for your question, "Why are you focusing on these two?", these two bikes are the most appealing to me under $1100(My max spending amount). As a college bound teen, I'm saving up some money for college, thus, I can't be spending money upgrading every component on a basic level bike that would only come with bare-essential components and no disc brakes. With these two bikes, my perfered components come stock: LX drive train components, disc brakes, rear air shock, etc) If I were to buy the Schwinn, I would probably upgrade from the Judy fork to a Pilot SL on the spot, but other than that, my bike will be mostly all stock for most of the time. I am into recreational riding, but I am still somewhat weight concious. If I were to choose between a lightweight frame with so-so components, and a somewhat-lightweight frame with mid level components, I'll take the heavier frame with the better components. As I said, I won't have money to upgrade components left and right, the I want a bike that will have my perfered components in the first place.

    My budget is $1100, and in this price range, most of the bikes use "faux-link" or single pivot rear suspension that usually have some bobbing to them. Both the i-Drive 2.0 and the Schwinn Rocket 2 that I have test ridden this weekend didn't have much bobbing. Now, when I compare these two bikes, it gets harder for me to make up my mind. Here are the pro's and con's that I see for each bike

    Schwinn Rocket 1:

    Pros - Deore LX front/rear derailleurs, Rock Shox BAR shock with rebound adjustment, Iso-Drive suspension, Hayes HFX-9 brakes, ISO-Drive based on new i-Drive XC design.

    Cons - Judy XC fork, slightly heavier frame weight, 3.5" rear travel.

    GT i-Drive 2.0:

    Pros - Rock Shock Pilot SL fork, lighter frame, 4.5" travel.

    Cons - Fox Float shock w/o rebound adjustment or ProPedal, Alivio front derailleur, eccentric maintenance.

    I'm still deciding which bike I should go for, but this message is for explaining my reasoning into choosing my next bike. It seems that the Schwinn is a better deal, but I'm still looking into why it still costs $100 less than the GT, and if it is only contributed to having a slightly heavier frame and the Judy fork, or if there is more.

  4. #4
    There's no app for this.
    Reputation: JimC.'s Avatar
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    I'd skip them both, here's why

    Pacific sold them to a Canadian mfr. of baby furniture. Gawd only knows what you will do for parts in future if the line changes, and it probably will. Both lines are notorious for design changes, ownership changes, and bankruptcy, and parts scarcity. Even when GT was alive I couldn't get parts for 2 year old designs. These forums rang with posts for bushings, der. hangers, shocks and bearings and the like.
    http://dirtragmag.com/features/news/index.php?ID=215
    IMHO I'd look at anything else. but that'/s just me and I've been burned repeatedly by GT. You may have a better expeience than I.

    Just my .02, Jim

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimC.
    Pacific sold them to a Canadian mfr. of baby furniture. Gawd only knows what you will do for parts in future if the line changes, and it probably will. Both lines are notorious for design changes, ownership changes, and bankruptcy, and parts scarcity. Even when GT was alive I couldn't get parts for 2 year old designs. These forums rang with posts for bushings, der. hangers, shocks and bearings and the like.
    http://dirtragmag.com/features/news/index.php?ID=215
    IMHO I'd look at anything else. but that'/s just me and I've been burned repeatedly by GT. You may have a better expeience than I.

    Just my .02, Jim
    For $1100 you can get a nice hardtail with a decent fork. If you are worried about money, think about the upkeep on a full suspension design. That is why I run a singlespeed during the rain months and only run my fs when the conditions are right. If your riding still is jumps, freeride, etc, get a freeride hardtail. If you like to climb and race more, go with a lighter and more nimble setup. Personally, I love the Kona geometry and that is what I would recommend.

    Also, I had a Schwinn 4-Banger and dealing with that company on warranty issues sucked.

  6. #6

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    For $1000 there are lots of nice FS bikes you can get.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith
    Thanks for responding Disaster:

    As for your question, "Why are you focusing on these two?", these two bikes are the most appealing to me under $1100(My max spending amount). .
    Check out some of the threads on recommended bikes in that price range. One of the best things to do is look for discounts on '03 models. Here is a list of bikes I've heard mentioned at that price...all of them I'd pick over your two.

    Giant NRS-3 ($850-$1000)
    Specialized Epic ($1000)
    Specialized Enduro ($1050)
    Specialized Stumpjumper, Rockhopper or FSR($850-$1100)
    Kona Kikapu ($1000)

    Are you limiting yourself to the GT or Schwinns because of local dealer availability. Most better dealers will stock Giant and Specialized. Most have given up on Pacific (now defunct.)

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