geometry questions..HT to FS- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    aka rockyonekc
    Reputation: Diamond Dave's Avatar
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    geometry questions..HT to FS

    As a die-hard SS hardtail fan, I've come to a point where I realize the value of a FS trailbike and gears for those epic days on the bike.

    My current ride is a '97 blizzard SS with a whopping 68mm of travel from a similar era Z2 fork. This bike fits me like a glove, and is perfect for me in every way. To expand my stable, I'm looking for a 4-5" FS with similar geometry and handling characteristics. Rocky calls it their ST3 geometry. Voodoo calls it the "Joe Murray" design. So far, I've found that Titus, Rocky Mountain and even Norco make FS frames with similar geometry to the RM. Any others that should make my short list? I don't want to spend a ton of money because 90% of my riding will continue to be on my blizzard SS. The new FS bike will be for epic rides and trips mostly.

    For fit, what should I consider in addition to the effective top tube, standover and seat-tube measurements? (other than the obvious test ride)

    For handling, what effect does a longer wheelbase have? longer chainstays?

    Any other thoughts?

  2. #2
    www.derbyrims.com
    Reputation: derby's Avatar
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    Try to test ride before buying

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamond Dave
    As a die-hard SS hardtail fan, I've come to a point where I realize the value of a FS trailbike and gears for those epic days on the bike.

    My current ride is a '97 blizzard SS with a whopping 68mm of travel from a similar era Z2 fork. This bike fits me like a glove, and is perfect for me in every way. To expand my stable, I'm looking for a 4-5" FS with similar geometry and handling characteristics. Rocky calls it their ST3 geometry. Voodoo calls it the "Joe Murray" design. So far, I've found that Titus, Rocky Mountain and even Norco make FS frames with similar geometry to the RM. Any others that should make my short list? I don't want to spend a ton of money because 90% of my riding will continue to be on my blizzard SS. The new FS bike will be for epic rides and trips mostly.

    For fit, what should I consider in addition to the effective top tube, standover and seat-tube measurements? (other than the obvious test ride)

    For handling, what effect does a longer wheelbase have? longer chainstays?

    Any other thoughts?
    But generally like hardtails the steeper the seat tube angle the more efficent climbing the bike is due to the rider weight position over the pedals. With the new pedal reactive platform rear shocks now just about any rear design can work nearly as good as the best suspension designs. Quality in engineering is most important to durability.

    The longer the wheelbase the more stable it will handle, but the tradeoff is corner and technical condition quick handling and loss of ease in lifting thr front wheel over obsticals.

    As you gain more travel in front decrease the head angle about 1 degree per inch increase in travel for good handling without over springing the fork.

    Disc brakes are totally worth the price.

    - ray

  3. #3
    TRAIL KUBUKI CORNDOGGER
    Reputation: TwistedCrank's Avatar
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    Aug 2004
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    An experience to consider:

    I upgraded from a HT Stumpy to a Giant NRS (FS of course) - the NRS purchase was based on the fact that when I test drove bikes I wanted something whose cockpit felt just like my Stumpy because I was so comfortable in it. (My rationale to moving to a DS was to increase endurance for training with a possible goal of a 24 hour solo.)

    Once I got used to the feel of the NRS on non-technical trails (my climbing improved as did my decending speed). I began to see what the new steed had on the techincal stuff. Descents were fine but the climbing was very very different - surprisingly so. The weight shifts I need to pop up steep tricky sections (rocks, roots and ruts) we're at first awkward and klunky but I'm starting to figure them out.

    I guess the upshot is that If you get a DS that has the same cockpit as what you're riding in a SS, you might find the real world ride to be different from what you expect. If your use of the DS is for the occasional epic and your typical SS rides are relative sprints, you might consider a different geometry.

    I has no regrets wahtsoever about my new NRS, I'm just offering my experience.
    Nobody cares what kind of bike you ride.

  4. #4

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    beware "riding on paper"

    I wouldn't be too quick to decide based only on the way it will "ride on paper," from examining geometry.

    FS rigs are tuned to behave in their sag range. I seriously doubt that a mfr's stated geometry reflects the "average" rider on a well-tuned suspension set in the proper sag range. It's probably going to be the geometry of the unladen bike.

    as derby said, test ride before making any decisions. you might even find that your preference for the old "joe murray" kona/voodoo geometry might be ready for retirement. I know that as I've aged and become a more well-rounded rider (I do FR, DH, and all other XC oriented forms) I've grown farther away from the fast-and-steep geometry made famous as the "NORBA XC geometry" and, depending on your top tube length preference, also as the "joe murray" geometry (slightly longer TT and slightly shorter CS). my current preferences are for 69 or 70 deg HA on XC rides. this means that the old flat-back XC racer position is now well in my past. you may find you also enjoy the more upright riding position.

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