Yeah, first ride!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    ... and if we just ... Yeah, first ride!

    Took the bike out for it's first break-in run today and was out for about 5 hours. A few differences I noticed between this one and the walmart. Seems the brakes on the walmart were a bit better. Stopped me quicker and didn't squeak like these did. Without the rear suspend, it was a bumpier ride and without the chain guard over the front cassette, my pant leg kept catching in the teeth which really sucked. Ended up having to tightroll my pant leg lol a trick I learned from the 80s. But the bike's responsiveness was much quicker. When I turn the wheel, the bike turned on a dime without the sluggish delay with my other bike.(because the bike is lighter?) Chain fell off front deraileur once and my seat came loose, so a few minor adjustments required. Gears seem to be all working. The tires weren't too bad, but I might need something more knobby on the rear. tried to go up a small hump/hill and near the top my rear tire slipped, I fumbled backwards down the hill and tipped my bike over. How embarrassing. My ride was awesome tho. Didn't wanna come home but it was getting cloudy.





    At the bottom of a hill the trail suddenly became extremely rocky and bumpy. Really rough. Thought my chain was going to be jerked right off or a tire might burst but everything held up a-ok.

    I had a blast. Back out tomorrow.

  2. #2
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Sweet. Biggest upgrade you can make is riding the bike.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    Are you really going to start a new thread EVERY TIME you do something with your bike...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malibulx3
    Are you really going to start a new thread EVERY TIME you do something with your bike...
    Eh, I'm just excited about my new ride. It'll wear off after awhile, but for the time being just humor me a bit.

  5. #5
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    How much does the Cliff 4500 weigh?

  6. #6
    T.W.O.
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    Gem you may want to zip tie the front brake line to the arch of the fork or the left fork leg so it would not get chew up by the tire.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by chimpanzee00
    How much does the Cliff 4500 weigh?
    Box it was delivered in states 18.5 kg in the box and 15.5 kg out of the box. So that's about 34 pounds.

    The brake cable is actually already tied at the top of the fork but I see what you mean. Might be a good idea to go ahead and throw another zip on there.

  8. #8
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    The pic you posted isn't of the rough trail you were talking about, was it? Looks a lot like somewhere in Pennsylvania . . .

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini9
    Eh, I'm just excited about my new ride. It'll wear off after awhile, but for the time being just humor me a bit.

    We have been humoring you the last week...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxnroots
    The pic you posted isn't of the rough trail you were talking about, was it? Looks a lot like somewhere in Pennsylvania . . .
    Nah that's not the rough one. That's just a little 2.7 mile trail in Garrett county (Western Maryland) called the Burkholder Trail. Just an old fire road. The rigid trail I mentioned is another trail in the same general area called the CCC camp road. It's now a logging road and the trucks, bulldozers and other machines have really torn it up.

    MikeeMellor > Just a little longer.

  11. #11
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    If the Vbrakes on the wally world junk stopped better you may want to work on the brakes a little and make the pads closer to rotor. But as far as squeaking its more likely the pads...new pads will change that! Just check out the reviews in the review section and get the right pads! They make a huge difference! I always just chunk out the pads that come stock on disc brake because 7/10 times they are terrible. And just from experience you will get used to the hardtail feel! Its awesome! I have a fully built Cannondale Jekyll with Fox on both ends and I prefer the ride of my Salsa Fargo which is full rigid steel frame. Keep it up!

  12. #12
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    New disc brakes also need to be broken in so they should get better.
    2011 Trek Marlin
    Shimano SLK Crank set
    Nashbar Pedals
    Avid BB5 brakes

  13. #13
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    Wally ride had a front disc and rear v. would stop me good. But nevertheless, I like my new bike. I'll not worry about changing the pads right now but when they wear out I'll get something better.

  14. #14
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Tektro IOs, right?

    I have one on my shelf. Sort of a souvenir at this point, since it won't go onto any of my current rides. It's actually not a bad brake, or wasn't during the relatively short period that I used it, but it's got a pretty stiff pull. I bet it gets better in another ride or two.

    If it doesn't, a frequent culprit in performance problems with any cable-driven system is the cable housings. You need the cable to slide freely in the housing, and not compress the housing when you squeeze the brake lever. If the ends of the housing are finished poorly, unfortunately somewhat common to inexpensive bikes, it really messes with the performance of the system. It's something you can fix yourself with a bench grinder or a hand file.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#cutting

    Mechanical discs are pretty sensitive to tuning. An adjustment you need to be aware of is the one to move the inboard pad out toward the rotor. On the IO, there are three countersunk hex bolts on the inboard side. Two of them hold the brake together and the third is a contact adjustment. If that was never adjusted or the inboard pad is worn down, the rotor may come in contact with the housing and not the brake pad. This causes a really major decrease in stopping power.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  15. #15
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    I would not worry about replacing your tire yet on the rear. Chances are even if you got a new tire it would just spin out on the same hill. After some rides and experience under your belt you will get better at climbing and shifting your weight to avoid spinning out.
    There are a lot of little things that you can only figure out once you get some experience under your belt. I know I would spin out on some climbs almost every time I did it and after a while I just got better at it.
    Same hill, same condition same bike I was able to climb it at a lower speed than before and avoid spinning out. Difference was I had just gotten better controlling everything.

    First rides are first rides. It does sound like the bug has bit you so keep at it and keep your tires spinning.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini9
    Eh, I'm just excited about my new ride. It'll wear off after awhile, but for the time being just humor me a bit.
    I enjoy reading your threads. Last I looked this was the Beginner's Corner forum. Nothing wrong with starting threads about new bikes or experiences.

  17. #17
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    Those Windsor are pretty nice bikes, and as far as squish bike you will soon come to the realization that HARDTAILS RULE!!

  18. #18
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    I've enjoyed reading your posts. Glad to see you finally got it out on a trail. Looks like a good bike. I'll echo everyone else that stated to ride what you have and work on dialing everything in before swapping things out (tires etc). I got a new bike this season too and I'm finding myself spinning out on a lot of climbs I can clear without issue on my other bike. Finish getting the bike dialed in and then work on your skills.

  19. #19
    DynoDon
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    you may need to take some air out of the tires too, start 30 front 28 rear. if your light weight you may beable to go lower... bike will climb better, take bumps better.
    Climbing is a skill that takes time to learn, right air pressure is important, right gear selection, 360 smooth peddling is important on loose terrain, weight distribution, conditioning is the hardest part to get right, sitting helps that, just slide forward so the tip of the seat is on your butt,... good luck

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini9
    Box it was delivered in states 18.5 kg in the box and 15.5 kg out of the box. So that's about 34 pounds.

    The brake cable is actually already tied at the top of the fork but I see what you mean. Might be a good idea to go ahead and throw another zip on there.
    Zip tie it to the lower leg & cut that tie @ the top.

    The atatchment @ the lower leg will keep the cable secured to the portion that is moving W/the caliper.

    The top should be left free to flex as the forks compress.

    I zip tie mine onto the cross member that connects the right & left lower legs right up tight aginst the left lower leg.

    (not sure about the nomenclature, I'm susing motorcycle terminalogy)

  21. #21
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    Congrats on the 1st ride. It's addicting isn't it!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malibulx3
    Are you really going to start a new thread EVERY TIME you do something with your bike...

    As if you're paying for the servers that we post on.
    Ragley Blue Pig

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch
    Tektro IOs, right?

    If it doesn't, a frequent culprit in performance problems with any cable-driven system is the cable housings. ith the housing and not the brake pad. This causes a really major decrease in stopping power.
    You know now that you mention it, there does seem to be a drag/scraping/grinding sensation when I squeeze the trigger for the front brake. Rear is smooth as can be so I do think there's something going on there.

    Air in my tires right now is 50 psi and I'm on Kendal K885s. It's a semi-slick tire. These things are pretty awesome on hardpack and pavement. Maybe I have too much tire pressure or just simply need more practice lol. I'll be going back out here in a little while. Being laid off/unemployed does have it's benefits! No money, but lots of time to ride.

    My front shock needs some adjustments. I only weigh 135 and the shock is too stiff. It's unlocked and damper is set to low (the turtle picture lol) So I assume I have to ... decrease the preload? (Rockshox Dart2)
    Last edited by gemini9; 04-26-2011 at 10:08 AM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blksocks
    As if you're paying for the servers that we post on.
    Oh I'm sorry, I was unaware I had to pay for the severs to be able to make a statement.

  25. #25
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    It's no wonder you lost traction on a loose hill. In addition to possibly lacking good loose conditions climbing skill, that's way too much pressure unless you weigh in the mid 200's. Lower the pressure down (those look to be 29" wheels?) to below 35psi if they are 29" wheels. I weigh 260 and run 27-28psi in 2.2" x 29" tires, but they are tubeless which allow me to run a little lower pressure.

  26. #26
    Mountain Man Dan
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    YES YES YES! Lower the pressure. I was amazed at how much a difference it made. I was running, probably somewhere in the 30's, I only weigh 150. I lowered them ( back specifically) to around 25 or less pounds ( with tubes), and it makes a hell of a difference, in a good way!!
    The bike is nothing more then circles turning circles, It's the human motor that makes it elegant.

  27. #27
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    I'll try lowering the pressure then. I'm debating on weather or not to go out today because it's been raining off and on all day. short showers/sprinkles. What are the chances this bike will rust up if I get caught in the rain? Don't want my new ride getting all rusty! Any kind of rust preventive spray I can put on there?

  28. #28
    Mountain Man Dan
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    Wrap the bike in plastic wrap.
    The bike is nothing more then circles turning circles, It's the human motor that makes it elegant.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectDan35
    Wrap the bike in plastic wrap.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini9
    Wally ride had a front disc and rear v. would stop me good. But nevertheless, I like my new bike. I'll not worry about changing the pads right now but when they wear out I'll get something better.
    They most likely need to be adjusted and broken in.


    Quote Originally Posted by manabiker
    ...start 30 front 28 rear...
    Front should be lower than rear.

  31. #31
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    Went out for my 2nd ride today. Just a quicky because it's been raining off and on. I've got that really loud annoying squeak when I apply the brakes now. Will that go away??? Where did I see that post about the squealing brakes..... anyway, I was able to adjust out the grinding sensation when pulling the trigger though. I think I need to increase the pull on the front derailleur too. the chain drags, so I'll do that here in a few. Oh yeah, and I still gotta let some air out of my tires. 50psi down to 30/28

  32. #32
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    Be thankful it's only raining there--we've had a few inches of snow here today. It's melting almost as fast as it lands, but it's a strange sight to behold, so much snow falling in late April.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini9
    I've got that really loud annoying squeak when I apply the brakes now. Will that go away??? Where did I see that post about the squealing brakes.....

    That loud annoying squauk might be because the pads are wet.

    Here is the post/posts about setting up your mech disc brakes.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...4&postcount=25

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=30
    Those that say "hardtails rule" never rode the miles I ride on the trails I ride.

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