rear shock question- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Kohler
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    rear shock question

    im not really in the market for a new rear shock, but i will be soon . how do i know what shocks will fit? is there a standard width for the mounting brackets? is it ok if i get one that is slightly longer than the one that my bike came with? im such a n00b

  2. #2
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    find out what your bike came with, and buy that same size. its best to keep the same size unless you really know what you're doing and what the results will be.

    shocks use bushings to fit specific frames. you can contact the manufacturer (or your lbs) to find out what bushings you need.. or if you're replacing it with the same brand, just reuse your bushings. i know manitou uses weird sizes, i think fox and most other brands are on the same page, but check to be sure.

  3. #3
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    First off what bike do you have if we know that this will go a lot quicker

    looks like 7.875 x 2

  4. #4
    Kohler
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    07 Haro Shift R3 (i know, i know; its a haro)

  5. #5
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    how much would you wanna spend???

  6. #6
    Kohler
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    im fairly flexible with spending. i dont mind saving money up to get a good component. military salaries suck so it might have to be a while. if it helps, im more into all mtn riding.

  7. #7
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    i like the fox RP2.. great value, cheaper than RP23. i dont need 3 different propedal settings, one is more than enough. Float R doesnt let you turn propedal off ever. dead reliable too.

    everyone seems to like their manitou rear shocks, but they're not cheap.

  8. #8
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    Maybe something simple like this http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Shock+10.aspx if you didnt wanna spend a ton.

  9. #9
    Old man on a bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    im not really in the market for a new rear shock, but i will be soon . how do i know what shocks will fit? is there a standard width for the mounting brackets? is it ok if i get one that is slightly longer than the one that my bike came with? im such a n00b
    Find out what the eye-to-eye length is and what the stroke is. Those are the key measurements to fitting a replacement shock. You might be able to go with slightly different dimensions (on either i2i or stroke), but you'll have to make sure that your bike can even handle the different dimensions (may cause frame contact with shock or wheels) and if the geometry will work well with any changes. Can be an expensive experiment if you don't figure out whether your bike can handle a change; you might search for threads for people who've done similar with your specific frame.

    Sticking to the original dimensions and getting a better quality shock is a good, safe route if you really need a new shock. What's wrong with the old shock? What are you looking to get out of a new shock?

    The shocks themselves are adaptable to a variety of frames by means of the shock mount hardware specific to the frame and shock. Not a big deal, can usually source hardware in a variety of ways, from the bike manufacturer, shock manufacturer, your lbs or even online shops (but know your dimensions for the hardware).
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  10. #10
    Kohler
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    thanks tom and micro. im really liking that coil over.

    when i measure from eye to eye, im presuming it should be in milimeters, correct? nothing is wrong with the old shock...yet. i just want something with a little more flexibility in terms of adjustment and such. the stock shock on my bike is decent but not the best.

  11. #11
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    My research says it's 7.875 with a 2" stroke. But you can measure and double check.

  12. #12
    Kohler
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    in english, what is stroke?

  13. #13
    Old man on a bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    in english, what is stroke?
    The amount the shock is able to compress, like travel for a fork.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  14. #14
    Kohler
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    ah. told you i was a noob.

    would it hurt to throw on something with a little more stroke?

  15. #15
    Old man on a bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    ah. told you i was a noob.

    would it hurt to throw on something with a little more stroke?
    If the longer stroke caused the wheel to contact the frame while riding...that might hurt.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  16. #16
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    If it were me, i'd rather replace the fork than the shock. It influences the ride a hell of a lot more and can be taken to a new frame a lot more easily.

    I don't think replacing individual parts on a 1k FS bike is a good idea.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
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  17. #17
    Kohler
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    i see what you mean. something with a little more stroke wouldnt hurt. i have a few inches to play with. if i could just figure out how to adjust the shock that i have. i havent the slightest clue on how to do that.

    why do you think its not a good idea?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    i see what you mean. something with a little more stroke wouldnt hurt. i have a few inches to play with. if i could just figure out how to adjust the shock that i have. i havent the slightest clue on how to do that.

    why do you think its not a good idea?

    Upgrading usually costs more than buying a new bike, for the same level off components....that is if you upgrade everything....

    If the base frame you start with is not really very good then you will have spent a lot of money for not a very good bike....

    On the other hand if the frame is a good frame than have at it one piece at a time as you can afford the upgrades.

    What type of rear shock do you have....really a lot of travel on the rear is not super necessary...

    My bike has 100mm rear and 130mm front for example, it is a great bike for rolling down steep rocky mountain sides, and getting back up to do it again.

  19. #19
    Kohler
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    Manitou Axel Elite, 120mm up front
    X-Fusion Coil, 4.5" in the back

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    Upgrading usually costs more than buying a new bike, for the same level off components....that is if you upgrade everything....

    If the base frame you start with is not really very good then you will have spent a lot of money for not a very good bike....

    On the other hand if the frame is a good frame than have at it one piece at a time as you can afford the upgrades.

    What type of rear shock do you have....really a lot of travel on the rear is not super necessary...

    My bike has 100mm rear and 130mm front for example, it is a great bike for rolling down steep rocky mountain sides, and getting back up to do it again.
    his bike has a X-Fusion Coil rear shock with 4.5" of rear travel.

    wow i was way late on that one.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    Manitou Axel Elite, 120mm up front
    X-Fusion Coil, 4.5" in the back

    Neat so what type of riding do you want to set the bike up for.

  22. #22
    Kohler
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    all mountain is what i really want to get into. im down for anything and im not too much of a weight weenie.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wkbattle
    all mountain is what i really want to get into. im down for anything and im not too much of a weight weenie.

    So to me all mountain means going uphill a fair amount then turning around and descending....as opposed to shuttling or lifts.

    So you want to consider some sort of pedal platform so that you don't waste a huge amount of energy on the climbs. Weight should be considered as well. Air shock is more expensive but ligther than a coil over.

    4.5 in of rear travel = 114.3 mm of travel with the front at 120mm not too bad.

    I think you can get a 2.5 inch travel shock since yours is 2 inch that would give you 2.5/2 *114.3= 142mm of travel seems a little long...

    Maybe keep it to 2 inch or 2.25 inch max 2.25/2*114.3=128.3mm normally one wants equal or more travel in the front so consider a travel adjustable front with maybe 140mm extended travel with the 2.25 inch rear travel.

    You know what though consider just changing the tire size, go a couple larger in the front and just one size larger in the rear....

    Maybe you are running 2.1 f and r...

    Maybe try 2.3 front 2.2 rear with a little lower pressure.

  24. #24
    Kohler
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    wow, thanks for all of the info. i tihnk i was just being a little to greedy by wanting to put a bigger shock on there if i dont really need one. i havent the slightest clue as to what im running on. i know that i want new ones soon, mine dont grip onto anything.

  25. #25
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    you cant find a 7.875 x 2.5 shock. 2.25 yes, but thats it.

    the shock is leveraged, so as long as nothing hits with that extra travel you can use more stroke, but if you go to a longer overall shock, it'll raise the bottom bracket, steepen the head tube. basically the bike will ride weird and feel terrible.

    theres nothing wrong with more rear travel than front. id prefer it, keeps the bike slack when it gets rough.

  26. #26
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