Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks-
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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2008

    Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks, Forks

    So I have a question that I just cant find out. Simply put, what is the difference in a $100 fork, and a $800 fork? I hear that they have better steering responce, but a fork is a fork, isnt it? So i need toknow the differences between a cheepy fork, and an amazing fork(other than possibly longer travel)
    thanks everyone

  2. #2
    The Martian
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Simply put, EVERYTHING!

    I'm not a fork person, but some things I've noticed.

    Cheap forks tend to be coil sprung or otherwise non-adjustable or hard to adjust (have to go buy a new spring and install). Nice forks seem to be air based now and can easily be adjusted for the rider's weight and riding style with a simple shock pump. This is HUGE to me since I'm small (120lbs fully loaded) and makes the difference between actually using front suspension (a nice fork) and having 3-5lbs of wasted weight on the front of my bike (cheap fork).

    You can also adjust the rebound and often completely lock out a nice fork.

    Nice forks are often more responsive (as you said, and yes it's true. My lefty goes wherever I THINK about going, I put little effort into steering and no effort into keeping it on path). Also stiffer laterally, more bump compliant (goes back to the adjustment thing too), and lighter.

    That's not to say you NEED an $800 fork but certainly there are some major performance benefits as you go up in price at least to a certain level.

  3. #3
    Big Gulps, Alright!
    Reputation: Berkley's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    You really notice the difference when you ride one of each. For one, cheap forks are heavy while pricier forks are lighter. Big difference. Next, many low end forks lack adjustment and aren't made as well. I briefly rode an RST fork for a while and it typically did not get the full 100mm of travel. It took a big hit to fully compress it. My Fox F100RL gets full travel all the time and is far smoother. Plus, it has lockout for climbing hills.

    If you get the chance, demo ride a fork of each type. Try something like an RST fork, a Rockshox Dart 1 or a Manitou Axel. Then ride something with a Fox F100 or Rockshox Reba. You'll understand very quickly.
    Axle Standards Explained

    Founder at North Atlantic Dirt, riding & writing about trails in the northeast.

  4. #4
    Go Big or Go Home
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Build quality is a large factor. My RST fork broke in 2 weeks. =[

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    thanks everyone for the remarks, i realy dont like mine(MZ supercomp 120mm(not even on themarzocci site for some reason)) Its to stiff and, i dunno it just sux. WOuld anyone have a sugestion for a new fork around the $300 price range? or would i have to get something in the $500 price range? i do mostly mountain riding with some street

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cata1yst's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Your budget seems to allow for a used fox...check the classifieds above if you dont mind buying used
    Lean back, Hit both brakes, And ask yourself, Do you feel lucky today?

  7. #7
    One Gear
    Reputation: .40AET's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Find out how much travel your frame can handle. If you can stretch a little, then get a Fox.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    where would i find how much travel it can handel? I have a devinci hucker with a mz supercomp 120mm

  9. #9
    BrassBalled DropbarNinja
    Reputation: mrpercussive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    damping, sensitivity, tunability, weight, etc....

  10. #10
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    I would try to find a good 120mm fork so you don't throw of the bikes geometry. 130mm MAX!
    Otherwise you could stress out the frame and snap it.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

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