Fall & Winter Mountain Biking- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Fall & Winter Mountain Biking

    This is my first season as a mountain biker and I would like to ask the more experienced members on the board if there are any particular details regarding fall and winter mountain biking that I might catch me unawares.

    I've ridden asphalt the past two years in Chicago and Peoria so I feel confident in my ability to dress myself to protect against wet snow, sweat, and windchill. This winter, however, I'll be riding in Seoul, Korea. Average winters are around 0 degrees Celsius with low snowfall.

    Starting with the shoes, I've got some Specialized Carbon MTB's and some waterproof-ish booties. I've got basic summer cycling shorts that I match up with some fleeced legwarmers and kneewarmers and cover all of that with some wool knickers. On top I've got a basic jersey, wicking long sleeve, fleece pullover and Goretex hardshell. I've got a skullcap for under the helmet, a neckgator and some fleeced PI gloves.

    On the bike I'm rolling on Conti Mountain King 2.2's - stock on a '09 Scott Scale 40. Will these bite into snow and frozen dirt okay? My experience with tread in the past has been limited to some Panaracer Crossblasters on my cross bike and some WTB Alterrainasaurus' I put on my Steamroller.

    Thanks ahead of time.

  2. #2
    Living the High Life
    Reputation: Ithnu's Avatar
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    They make booties to put over shoes to keep your feet warm and dry. Or just wear thicker socks and use good ol' duct tape for waterproofing

    For ice and snow, nothing beats studded tires. Be careful in the snow if you have rim brakes, they'll get clogged pretty fast in even 3".
    You have just been mentally Rick Roll'd. Yup you're thinking about it right now aren't you? Don't fight it.

  3. #3
    ride like you stole it
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    Full length housing on everything because with temps around freezing any moisture will freeze them up. For tires it depends on your conditions if your riding through more pow you'll want more tread, if your on packed snow and ice slick or semi slick are better so you get a better contact patch. Also if your riding hills you'll need to figure out your gear ratios because if its to easy you'll break loss, if its to hard you wont be able to get up the hill, you'll need to find a happy middle ground here.

    For me the best winter bike is a cheap beater thats been "fixed" so that you can never loose brakes and when the winter kick the snot out of it its not a big deal.
    I lubed my disc brakes because they squeaked.
    Man was that fun to work out

  4. #4
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    Yeah, my winter bike at home is a fixed gear Surly Steamroller with treads and fenders. Was a great ride.

    Quote Originally Posted by spcarter
    Full length housing on everything because with temps around freezing any moisture will freeze them up. For tires it depends on your conditions if your riding through more pow you'll want more tread, if your on packed snow and ice slick or semi slick are better so you get a better contact patch. Also if your riding hills you'll need to figure out your gear ratios because if its to easy you'll break loss, if its to hard you wont be able to get up the hill, you'll need to find a happy middle ground here.

    For me the best winter bike is a cheap beater thats been "fixed" so that you can never loose brakes and when the winter kick the snot out of it its not a big deal.

  5. #5
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Step up your maintenance too. The extra moisture, snow, mud etc can be very hard on your bike if you don't clean and lube on a regular basis. The driveline (chain, cassette and cranks) deserve special attention. I typically drop my interval down by a factor of 2 (do it twice as often) and usually switch to a wet lube in winter so it holds better.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

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