Broke my chainring shifter today, what to do now- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Broke my chainring shifter today, what to do now

    Well it was my first day today ever riding a mountain bike trail and I had a blast. About halfway through a squirrel thought it would be funny to get in my way before going over a log. I lost control, flipped over the log, went OTB, and broke my left SRAM X3 shifter on my 2012 Specialized Hardrock Disc 29er. So what should I do now, I mean just the X3 shifter is about 19 dollars on ebay which isn't much at all. But should I go get another X3 or upgrade?

  2. #2
    JRA
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    Here is an X7 for $20. Upgrade for the same price.

    Sram X.7 Individual Trigger Shifter 3x9 Speed at Price Point
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRuckus View Post
    Here is an X7 for $20. Upgrade for the same price.

    Sram X.7 Individual Trigger Shifter 3x9 Speed at Price Point
    I love you for that! It may make my OCD go off though having a X3 and X7, but thanks so much!

  4. #4
    Chamois Dropper
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    Blueskycycling has a pair of X7s for $44.98, Or you could go with a set of x5s from Pricepoint or Bluesky for $35. That will take care of the OCD, and you'll have a spare rear shifter. And the upgrade sickness begins.....
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by natzx7 View Post
    Blueskycycling has a pair of X7s for $44.98, Or you could go with a set of x5s from Pricepoint or Bluesky for $35. That will take care of the OCD, and you'll have a spare rear shifter. And the upgrade sickness begins.....
    It has begun haha. Do you think there will be any problems since I only have seven speeds in the back and the X7 is for 9?

  6. #6
    Chamois Dropper
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    Yeah you're right I didn't realize the X3 was a seven speed shifter.
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  7. #7
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    That rear is a freewheel cluster design with only two bearings for support. None on the cluster outboard side. If you continue to ride trails you'll probably start bending axles. Start planning now to go to 8(or 9 or 10) speed and a new rear wheel and cassette. New rear derailleur if 9 or 10. If you look around this section you will see bent axle threads.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-cor...me-812236.html

  8. #8
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I didn't think Specialized was doing Hardrocks with freewheels anymore, not for years. OP, check whether you've got a freewheel or a freehub mechanism. If I'm not too confused and you have a 7-speed cassette, you can stick with your current wheels, and probably also drop 8-speed shifters right into your existing drivetrain. Spacing between 7-speed and 8-speed cassettes is .2 mm different per Sheldon Brown. (Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Frame and Cassette Spacing Crib Sheet) But the total spacing is 4.8 mm between each cog or 5 mm between each cog. While I haven't tried it, driving a 7-speed drivetrain with an 8-speed shifter ought to work okay. This'll also give you some "future-proofing" so that if you do replace your rear wheel later, you can go straight to using 8-speed cassettes that fit the new freehub properly.

    Sticking with X3 would be a little more conservative. I'd probably try the X7s, especially if I could test-fit a set. But all my bikes get a bit of a parts blend by the time I've had them a few years.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  9. #9
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    I checked and it looks like a freehub because it has cassette splines. Is that correct?

  10. #10
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    That would be lucky. I think you are right.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    That would be lucky.
    So I don't really need to fear bending my axle? Because I don't have much money for a upgrade of all the stuff you mentioned.

  12. #12
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    You just need the shifter. A cassette slides onto a freehub which has more bearings, including one each out toward both dropouts for support. But the fork it comes with does not have adjustable rebound damping. Using it on harder trails with lots of rocks and roots will give you a challenge. It pogos. Cut your speed to keep control. Eventually you may want to upgrade. 150 at bluesky for a Rockshox XC 32TK. The $99 28TK is flexy if you weigh over 160.
    .BlueSkyCycling.com - Rock Shox XC 32 TK 29er Coil Fork

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    You just need the shifter. A cassette slides onto a freehub which has more bearings, including one each out toward both dropouts for support. But the fork it comes with does not have adjustable rebound damping. Using it on harder trails with lots of rocks and roots will give you a challenge. It pogos. Cut your speed to keep control. Eventually you may want to upgrade. 150 at bluesky for a Rockshox XC 32TK. The $99 28TK is flexy if you weigh over 160.
    .BlueSkyCycling.com - Rock Shox XC 32 TK 29er Coil Fork
    Sounds good, thanks for the advice. I'm looking right now for an upgrade to the Suntour fork. Thankfully the trial I went on is mainly smooth with a few roots, but they are small.

  14. #14
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    It's hard to do a worthwhile suspension fork for less than $300. Not impossible. But not so easy.

    You can also do a rigid fork and get much better tracking. Those retail around $80. IMO, it's a more fun way to ride than a fork that flexes a lot and pogos. I'd still rather have a suspension fork that tracks nicely and has some damping.

    Forks are a big-ticket enough item that you really need to think about your long-term plans for the bike. Upgrading everything is a very expensive way to get to a reliable and well-functioning ride. If your tight budget is due to something temporary, like working on a degree, you might do better being conservative now, and making a nicer bike a first paycheck present when you get your "real" job, or something like that.

    Since you're starting off with a Hardrock, though, if it's the right size for you it's a perfectly good frame. Mine rides pretty nicely. (After bolting more than its original value worth of crap to it. )
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  15. #15
    Cow Clicker
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    I leave my shifters and brake levers "snu" enough that they can move on impact, but tight enought to not move under normal use. This keeps the amount of broken parts to a minimum
    No, YOU don't understand. You're making an ass of yourself for all of eternity.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmac View Post
    I leave my shifters and brake levers "snu" enough that they can move on impact, but tight enought to not move under normal use. This keeps the amount of broken parts to a minimum
    Ill have to try that. It sounds like a really good idea actually.

  17. #17
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    FYI 8 speed Shimano shifters will work with a 7 speed cassette.

  18. #18
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    So just the make sure, the SRAM x7 will work in place of the now broken SRAM x3, correct?

  19. #19
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    You just gave me an idea, maybe I should start breaking all the parts on my bike. lol

  20. #20
    Just Ride
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    perfect time to convert to 1x9!
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

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