is a brake rotor normal to look like this after about 1 mins usage?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    is a brake rotor normal to look like this after very short usage?

    i just got brand new bb7 with new OEM pads and put on a new hayes v8 203mm rotor, ive done some light braking and break in.

    here is how the rotor look like, i was wondering if this is the way it should be or what
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails is a brake rotor normal to look like this after about 1 mins usage?-p9260297.jpg  

    Last edited by akacoke; 09-26-2011 at 10:02 PM.

  2. #2
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    I have the same brakes with OEM pads, too, but mine doesn't look like that - did you get it wet somehow? (looks like rust)...........otherwise, do the brakes still work?.....
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  3. #3
    AZ
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    You need to "bed" the pads, make about a dozen controlled stops from about 10 M.P.H. or so, then have a look at it. Make sure there is no foreign matter on the pads.

  4. #4
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    i did a bunch of break in today 10mph/5mph, the pad surface is ok, there ware no water at all, not sure why it looks rusted to you tho,

    im running 203mm rotors now they look the same to the 160mm pictured, brake works real good, great stopping power, due to im still breaking them in, i didnt try to lock the tire, but it would def lock

  5. #5
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    That rotor looks perfectly normal for one that is not fully bedded yet. Many people refer to bedding as breaking in the rotor. While this is partially the case, you are actually bedding the pad to the rotor. The pad surface on a new pad is not perfectly flat due to the nature of the material used to make them. They are pretty flat, just not absolutely perfect. In bedding the pad you are flattening it out completely. Additionally the pad burnishes the rotor and deposits pad material thereon. 1 minute or less of operation isn't enough to get the smooth shinny surface that results from a fully bedded brake. The uneven streaks that you are seeing on that rotor is where the pad started to bed. And it takes more than 10 or 12 runs from 10 to 5 mph to complete the bedding process. But it's a good start and accelerates the process. From there it can take 5 to 10 good rides to complete. And some streaking is going to be normal as well. Little bits of sand and other crud will get on the pads or the rotor and cause minor inconsistencies on the rotor surface. The only thing to worry about is if you start to see heavy dark streaks. That usually indicates contamination of some sort and should be dealt with quickly.

    So don't worry, just ride. Keep an eye on it, but as long as the brakes are performing properly it's not an issue.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  6. #6
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    this really cleared my concerns, i didnt know how to break in the rotors and pad, i just used car brake break in method, i pickup some speed and gentally grab the lever let it stop slowly and smoothly. after each ride i use brake cleaner to spray the pads and rotor.

    thank you very much for taking your time replying my post.


    Quote Originally Posted by Squash View Post
    That rotor looks perfectly normal for one that is not fully bedded yet. Many people refer to bedding as breaking in the rotor. While this is partially the case, you are actually bedding the pad to the rotor. The pad surface on a new pad is not perfectly flat due to the nature of the material used to make them. They are pretty flat, just not absolutely perfect. In bedding the pad you are flattening it out completely. Additionally the pad burnishes the rotor and deposits pad material thereon. 1 minute or less of operation isn't enough to get the smooth shinny surface that results from a fully bedded brake. The uneven streaks that you are seeing on that rotor is where the pad started to bed. And it takes more than 10 or 12 runs from 10 to 5 mph to complete the bedding process. But it's a good start and accelerates the process. From there it can take 5 to 10 good rides to complete. And some streaking is going to be normal as well. Little bits of sand and other crud will get on the pads or the rotor and cause minor inconsistencies on the rotor surface. The only thing to worry about is if you start to see heavy dark streaks. That usually indicates contamination of some sort and should be dealt with quickly.

    So don't worry, just ride. Keep an eye on it, but as long as the brakes are performing properly it's not an issue.

    Good Dirt

  7. #7
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    i put up a pic of the 203mm rotor in the OP, there is no black lines or any streaks that i can catch with my finger when i touch the rotor surface. it has about 8 mins break in and 30 mins city commute on it.

    it has awesome braking power, rear tire would lock easily when i just lightly squeeze the lever

  8. #8
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    Yup that's pretty normal. And your pads are hitting pretty much dead center of the braking surface. Hayes pads are wider than Avids by a little so your pad it not hitting the outer edge of the rotor, but not that big of a deal.

    One word of advise though, shorten the tag end of that cable! The tag end should be no more than 3/4 to 1" long. If that comes unwrapped it could get caught in the rotor. That'll be an experience you won't forget!

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  9. #9
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    yeah why did you wrap it like that cut that shiznit!

  10. #10
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    thanks for the advise guys, just cut it shorter.


    Quote Originally Posted by Squash View Post
    Yup that's pretty normal. And your pads are hitting pretty much dead center of the braking surface. Hayes pads are wider than Avids by a little so your pad it not hitting the outer edge of the rotor, but not that big of a deal.

    One word of advise though, shorten the tag end of that cable! The tag end should be no more than 3/4 to 1" long. If that comes unwrapped it could get caught in the rotor. That'll be an experience you won't forget!

    Good Dirt
    Quote Originally Posted by dundundata View Post
    yeah why did you wrap it like that cut that shiznit!

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