10 year old bike worth putting money into?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    10 year old bike worth putting money into?

    Hello,
    I recently acquired a 2004 Cannondale Jekyll 600 from a friend cheap. It is a full suspension xc bike with mid level components for its day, however it is 10 years old now. Overall it is in decent shape, however it has a few problems I wanted to try and resolve on my own cheaply as opposed to bringing it to the bike shop for a tune up.

    The brakes are now working well, I replaced the cables which helped greatly.

    The shifters/derailleurs seem to stick/not shit then skip a gear. Shifters are shimano deore rapid fire, with deore xt rear derailleur, and deore lx front derailleur. Would new cables fix this or do I need to clean out inside of shifters? I am hoping I don't have replace these.

    The rear fox float RL shock leaks a little air. I have a shock pump so it is not a big issue. Would replacing the seals in the air sleeve fix this? Also the lockout is not very stiff. My friend has not serviced the bike in a few years, it has mostly sat in his garage.

    Finally, the 90/120mm Manitou black elite fork is a little bit soft for my weight (200lbs) It also seems to leak oil out of the rebound adjust at the bottom of the right side. Is there any way to cheaply stiffen up this shock? Is it even worth trying to fix something this old or better to save up for a new fork? 120mm travel was plenty for my needs.

    Sorry for the wordy post, hopefully it makes since and thanks for taking a look!

    Chris

  2. #2
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    The cable issue might be resolved with some cleaning,or replacing the cables/housing.The shifters aren't made to be taken apart ,you could spray a lite oil in them.Seals for the shock should be available for around 20$ ,look up the rebuild on the Fox web site. The Manitou might be more of a problem ,they were bought by Hayes and Hayes doesn't have replacement parts.There are places that will rebuild stuff ,google it. If it is a air fork ,put in more pressure.

  3. #3
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    Definitely replace the shifter cables and housings - also shimano shifter grease can solidify over time so you may want to take of the covers and clean them out with something like isopropyl alcohol and regrease them.
    Send your both shocks in for seal replacement and a damper service - it isn't a good idea to ride with damaged seals as crud can get in and damage them. You could do it yourself if you want
    I think the black elite is coil spring if I remember correctly? You should be able to get a stiffer spring for it.
    Should all cost less than $200 (well under$100 if you do it the shocks yourself) if there isn't anything badly wrong with the sus components and they only need new seals / oil.
    EDIT I think you can get an Enduro seals kit for Manitou Black - Enduro Installation for Manitou Black Elite

  4. #4
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    REI has a good lined housing/slick coated stainless cable Jagwire/Novare derailleur kit for $19.
    Novara Shift Cable Kit at REI.com
    Use superglue on the cable where you cut it with a good cable cutter only. There put a drop on the cut end and make sure it is rounded with some fine sandpaper to keep the lining of the housing undamaged. Full length runs cut down on the number of ferrels which are often what causes poor shifting.

  5. #5
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    Yup - as said above - fresh shifter cables, pick up a rebuild kit for your rear shock (check youtube for instructional videos on the job first and see if it's something you're willing to take on; it's pretty straightforward). You might be able to find heavier springs for the fork , but maybe not
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  6. #6
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    Mostly skimmed your OP. I'd say start by looking for a dealbreaking problem - make sure there's no play in your linkage.

    Then go to the new bike assembly checklist on parktool.com. You probably don't need to do everything but it'll help you avoid missing things.

    I suspect those who are telling you to get new cables and housings are right. Also make sure your chain's not stretched.

    I have a shiny new bike but still maintain my '07 Hardrock. It's not like you're talking about doing a total rebuild of everything or replacing a bunch of big ticket stuff.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    Thanks to everybody for the helpful advice!! I purchased new shifter cables at lbs for just a few dollars, and will replace these soon. Hopefully this does the trick and I won't need new housings as well. I purchased the new seal kit for $20 my rear shock, and plan to change out the seals when it warms up . It is below zero and lots of snow, so I have plenty of time before trail riding sea so here in MT. Should new seals improve lockout function? It is a Fox Float RL w/ propedal.

    For the time being I am keeping my eyes peeled on craigslist for a 26" front fork. I really do like forks with lockout, because I bike up as well as down the trails around here. I would like to upgrade to an air fork to easily ability to adjust for weight. I have not looked into availability of endure seals for Manitou black, or stiffer spring, and whether I look for new fork or replace parts on current will ultimately depend on prices.

    Thanks again everyone, it seems I will have this bike in pretty darn good running condition for under 50$ (excluding the fork)

  8. #8
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    Is it green? I enjoyed my Jekyll. Sure wished I hadn't sold it.

  9. #9
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    Re: 10 year old bike worth putting money into?

    Lockout is overrated, but compression damping is nice. I find if I'm climbing at a halfway decent clip, I want my fork active. Shock too, but I have an XC bike - they're supposed to isolate pedaling well. I do lock out the fork on fire roads sometimes and on the road to and from the trailhead, though.

    IMHO, doing cables and not housings is a bit of a waste of time. I think what's really happening as that part of the system wears is that the low-friction stuff inside the housings is wearing away and dirt is migrating in. The cables are stainless steel and typically the harder-wearing part. I think the generic housing is good enough but it's worth taking the time to finish the ends well.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  10. #10
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    fully agree with AndrwSwitch - replacing the cables and not the housings is a totally false economy - highly likely you will end up having to replace both the old housings and new cables at some point soon. Most bike shops sell it by the meter just go and buy enough for your needs (front and rear) as long as there are no super overly tight radius bends in the originals you can use them as guide to cut the new ones to length.
    I would also replace the fork seals while the weathers bad even if you intend to get a new fork at some point, - you can just order the seals direct from RWC they are also pretty cheap

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by onetwothree View Post
    Is it green? I enjoyed my Jekyll. Sure wished I hadn't sold it.
    It's a red one. I enjoyed it on the few rides I got before the snow hit.

    https://imgur./fgLP211

    Edit<a href='https://i.imgur.com/fgLP211' title=''><img src='https://i.imgur.com/fgLP211.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

  12. #12
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    Snow doesn't need to stop the fun. Knobby tires are already designed to handle mud and sand. Snow feels like one of those, depending. It's really only when it's deep and fresh that it's unrideable.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  13. #13
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    TE=AndrwSwitch;10985659]Snow doesn't need to stop the fun. Knobby tires are already designed to handle mud and sand. Snow feels like one of those, depending. It's really only when it's deep and fresh that it's unrideable.[/QUOTE]

    I've been riding around on the hard pack snow, and the bike seems to do pretty well, although the back tire is pretty worn in the middle. Had a few close calls with ice. Might swap out tires to pair of bontrager xr4 2.2's which have pretty good tred. They are narrower than the current tires but also considerably lighter which I'm hoping will help.

    The rear shock is leaking a lot more air in the sub zero temperatures so I plan to get the shock off my bike and replace the air sleeve seals today.

  14. #14
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    I know that some of the Fox air shocks in the past sometimes didn't like operating in the cold - I had a couple get 'stuck down' on me in the past (I believe the temperature would affect the internal seals in such a way that the air would make it's way to the wrong side of the shock and keep it in a compressed state. Or something along those lines). So it's entirely possible that below zero temps would affect your shock.

    That bike looks to me to be totally worth keeping running. I don't think I'd spend a lot of dough on it, but a decent used fork wouldn't be a bad idea at all.
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