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  1. #1
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    We the people ... Phantom build specs thread

    As the title says, post up a pic of your Phantom and list of info. Think this could help a lot of people who are wondering what size to go with.

    Lynx = 6'2.25" tall / 35.25" inseam, arms to match

    Size = Large
    Fork = Fox F34 @140mm (currently)
    Shock = X-Fusion 02 RCX
    Bar = KORE 800mm Torsion flat (7* b'sweep/5* upsweep)
    Stem = 65mm FUNN (flipped)
    Post = Thomson setback 410mm
    Crank = 175mm LX triple running 38/24 rings (49/50mm chainline)
    Drop outs = 150mm x 12mm

    Effective STA = 72* (roughly)
    32.5" center of BB to top of saddle above center of rails
    13.75" back of saddle to centre of BB (line drawn vertically from back of saddle to intersect chainstay)

    Riding = lots of flat road/connectors to the good trails, some decent amount of climbing, quite a lot of steep ones (which I love, the more tech the better) and descending, would categorize as XC/Trail riding.

    Sizing wise, had an XL Paradox first with a 448mm Reach ran a 80mm stem & 750mm wide bar, moved to a XL Prime w/ 472 Reach 60mm stem & 785mm wide bar. XL Prime always felt a bit hard to control on the fast downs, always felt perfect on the XL Paradox, so moved down to the Large Phantom when I saw the Reach was just 2mm longer and the XL Phantom was 6mm longer than my XL Prime. Ride a bit shorter cockpit these days (4 years later) so the Large is perfect with the 65mm stem and 800mm bar for my riding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Phantom build specs thread-phantom-side-.jpg  

    Last edited by LyNx; 11-05-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Phantom build specs thread-phantom_angle1.jpg
    Phantom build specs thread-phantom_angle2.jpg
    6'1" tall / 35" inseam

    Size = XL
    Fork = MRP Stage 130mm
    Shock = Rock Shox Monarch R
    Bar = Race Face SixC 35mm rise, 35mm clamp, 785mm width
    Stem = Prototype, 35mm clamp, 35mm length. 2.5mm spacer under.
    Post = KS Lev 125mm. 31" saddle height.
    Saddle = Ergon SME3
    Crank = 175mm SRAM S1400/X9/X1 w/ MRP Wave Ring prototype 32t chainring
    Drop outs = 142mm x 12mm
    Wheels = Enve M60 w/ DT Swiss 240s hubs
    Tires = Maxxis Ardent 2.4 F&R -or- DHF & DHR2
    Brakes = Shimano Zee levers coupled with Deore 615 calipers, 180/180
    Drivetrain = Shimano Saint shifter, XT Shadow+ GS w/ OneUp Rad Cage, XT 11-36 cassette w/ OneUp 40t cog
    Pedals = Crank Brothers Mallet 3
    Last edited by NoahColorado; 11-10-2014 at 11:26 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Phantom build specs thread-dsc00784.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dsc00790.jpg

    Makten = 185 cm tall with 88 cm inseam (yeah, all you non-metrics will have to convert to your illogical random system, bwahaha! ).

    Frame = Large mint
    Fork = Rockshox Pike 130 mm Solo air
    Rear shock = CCDB Inline
    Bar = Raceface Atlas 785 mm with 13 mm rise
    Stem = Hope FR 35 mm (length, not bar diameter)
    Post = Gravity dropper Turbo LP – 100 mm drop
    Saddle = Specialized Henge
    Cranks & BB = Shimano Zee 175 mm
    Front chainring = Hope 30T N/W
    Bashguard = MRP XCG Taco
    Pedals = Shimano Saint
    Wheels = American Classic Wide Lightning
    Dropouts = 142 x 12 mm
    Tyres = Maxxis Ardent EXO 2.4" tubeless (but switching to On-One CM up front for the slippery winter)
    Brakes = Shimano SLX
    Discs = Shimano XT 180 mm
    Rear derailleur = Shimano XT medium cage
    Shifter = Shimano XTR
    Cassette = Shimano XT 11-36T
    Rear fender = Mudhugger
    Front fender = Marshguard

    Weight = I have no idea and I don't care!

    Riding: Almost only rough technical trails. No long climbs or descents, but more up-down-up-down in small increments with rocks and roots. Veeeery slippery at this time of year, but not too much mud. I run ~1.0-1.3 bar front and ~1.3-1.6 bar rear.
    Last edited by Makten; 11-05-2014 at 05:43 PM.

  4. #4
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    Phantom build specs thread-_phantom.jpgBilu = 185cm
    Frame = Large
    Fork = Fox Float 34 CTD set 130mm
    Rear shock = RS Monarch RCT3
    Bar = Raceface Sixc 785 mm
    Stem = Thomson 70 mm (I will give a try to 50mm)
    Post = KS Lev 150mm
    Saddle = WTB Silverado
    Cranks & BB = RF Turbine 36/22 with Hope ceramic BB
    Front d= X0 direct mount S3
    Wheels = ZTR Flow laced with some SRAM's hubs
    Dropouts = 142 x 12 mm chips set in the slackest mode
    Tyres = Maxxis Ardent EXO 2.4" and 2,2" tubeless
    Brakes = Shimano Deore
    Rear derailleur = Shimano SLX long cage
    Shifter = Shimano SLX
    Cassette = Shimano SLX 11-36T

    Great bike

  5. #5
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    [QUOTE=NoahColorado;11559090]6'1" tall / 35" inseam
    Shock = Rock Shox Monarch R

    Hi Noah,
    did you ride allready with the new shock? I am curious what is the comparison back to back of those two shock you have had on Phantom
    thx

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bilu View Post
    I am curious what is the comparison back to back of those two shock you have had on Phantom
    My Inline was sent it for warranty after only a week so I don't have a ton of experience on it. So far the Monarch has been good - especially considering I picked it up barely used for about $75!
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    Phantom build specs thread-img_20141008_131430.jpg
    Gregdogg = 183cm tall, 65-70kg ready to ride
    Frame = Large
    Fork = Rockshox Pike 120 mm Solo air
    Rear shock = Monarch RCT3
    Bar = Raceface Next 720mm flat
    Stem = Raceface turbine 60mm
    Post = Rockshox Reverb 150mm drop
    Saddle = Chromag Moon DT
    Cranks & BB = Raceface turbine cinch, BSA 30mm BB
    Front chainring = Raceface 30t cinch spiderless
    Pedals = Crank brothers mallet 3
    Wheels = Roval Fattie SL
    Dropouts = 142 x 12 mm
    Tyres = Specialized Butcher 2.3 Grid (F), Purgatory 2.3 Grid (R), both tubeless (18psi front, 20psi rear)
    Brakes = Sram Guide RSC
    Discs = Sram Centerline 180mm (F), Centerline 160mm (R)
    Shifter/Rear derailleur/Cassette = Sram X01 (10-42t)

    Weight: 29lb

    Riding: British Columbia XC (think 'BC Bike Race'), mostly techier trails, some bigger climbs, some bigger descents, not afraid to hit drops upto ~5ft or jumps

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    Phantom build specs thread-phantom3.jpg

    Shackleton = 183cm/6ft tall, 90kg / 200lb clothed with pack, 89cm / 35" inside leg

    Frame = Large (Aqua)
    Fork = MRP Stage 130mm
    Rear shock = CCDB inline with 1 large volume spacer
    Bar = Raceface Atlas 785mm, 13mm rise
    Stem = Hope 50mm with 10mm spacers underneath
    Post = Rockshox Reverb Stealth 125mm drop
    Saddle = WTB Devo
    Cranks = Shimano SLX (2009)
    BB = Hope Stainless
    Front chainrings = Middleburn 22/32T, 36T bash
    Shifter/Rear derailleur/Cassette = Shimano XT 9sp shifter, XT med cage 9sp mech, Sram PG990 11-34 casette
    Pedals = Time ATAC MX6
    Wheels = Stans Flow EX on Hope ProII Evo
    Dropouts = 142 x 12 mm
    Tyres = Maxxis Shorty 2.3 F / Maxxis Beaver 2.25 R (F/R tubeless at 28/32 psi)
    Brakes = Shimano XT M875
    Discs = Shimano XT 180 F, 160R
    Mudguards = Mudhugger front arch guard

    Weight: People weigh their bikes?

    Riding: Scotland - wet, muddy, rocky, lots of pedaling, frequently steep up and down.
    Last edited by shackleton; 04-10-2015 at 12:44 AM.

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    Crevello = 192 cm tall, 85-95kg ready to ride
    Frame = XL
    Fork = Fox 36 Talas 130-110mm
    Rear shock = Cane Creek DB Inline
    Bar = Raceface Next 760mm
    Stem = Raceface turbine 60mm
    Post = Thomson Covert Dropper 125mm
    Saddle = Chromag Trailmaster DT
    Cranks & BB = Raceface Next SL cinch, BSA 30mm BB
    Front chainring = Raceface 30t cinch spiderless
    Pedals = Chromag Scarab or Shimano XT Trail
    Wheels = Industry 9 hubs on Derby Rims
    Dropouts = 142 x 12 mm
    Tires = Conti Trail King 2.2
    Brakes = Shimano Saint
    Discs = Shimano XT 180/160mm
    Shifter/Rear derailleur/Cassette = Shimano XT/Zee/OneUp 42t

    Weight: 31.5 lbs

    Riding: British Columbia/Pacific Northwest. Nothing too crazy but XC/trail/AM (aka mountain biking) with a preference of rolling obstacles over launching stuff.

  10. #10
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    ^ Super nice build. Do they offer in the RF spiderless ring in ano green? That would be perfect.

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    Thanks Eurospek! They sure do. It's on the future upgrade plan when the 30t wears out.

  12. #12
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    Phantom w/ 29+ tyres

    In case anyone was wondering, yup, the Phantom can take 29+ tyres in the slack setting, but clearance isn't great.

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn0837_web.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn0828_web.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn0834_web.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn0827_web.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn0831_web.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  13. #13
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    Banshee Phantom aka Johnny Cash

    Phantom build specs thread-img_1243.jpgPhantom build specs thread-img_1230.jpg

    I am 5'10", 31" inseam, 180lbs geared up and ready to rip.

    Frameset Banshee Phantom Medium Rockshox Monarch RCT3

    Fork Rockshox Pike 120mm RCT3

    Stem Truvativ AKA All Mtn 60 MM

    Handlebar Raceface Atlas 780mm

    Headset Chris King Inset I2 44/56 ZS

    Crank Shimano M770 XT 175mm

    Chain Ring Raceface NW 104bdc 32 Tooth

    Brakes Shimano SLX

    (F) Rotor Shimano XT 180mm

    (R) Rotor Shimano XT 180mm

    Derailleur Shimano Zee FR

    Shifter Shimano Zee 1x10

    Cassette Shimano XT 11-34

    Wheelset Chris King/Stan’s Flow EX

    Saddle SDG Ti-Fly

    Seat Post Thomson Elite 30.9

    Grips Oury Lock On

    Chain Shimano XT

    Pedals Shimano XT

    Tires Continental Mtn King 2.4

    Total Weight: 30 lbs

  14. #14
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    Has anyone measure the seat tube angle of the phantom with 130mm pike?
    I'm about to buy phantom frame/fork set. but I don't know which pike should I buy, 120mm or 140mm (lowered to 130mm with spacer at first. But when I'm settled with 130mm, I'm going to buy 130mm air shaft).

  15. #15
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    Sorry, you're S.O.L., you can no longer lower any RS forks with spacers, design is completely different and doesn't allow this anymore with the Solo Air Shaft setup - if somehow have found a way, please share.
    As to what the Phantom is like with a 130mm Pike, I'd imagine going from what I've read it'd be pretty nice, right between a Fox set to 120mm and 130mm since they generally have a lower A2C. Right now back to riding mine with a Trace set to 120mm and love it like this, best all around setup for me and my trails.
    Quote Originally Posted by lucky99 View Post
    Has anyone measure the seat tube angle of the phantom with 130mm pike?
    I'm about to buy phantom frame/fork set. but I don't know which pike should I buy, 120mm or 140mm (lowered to 130mm with spacer at first. But when I'm settled with 130mm, I'm going to buy 130mm air shaft).
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Sorry, you're S.O.L., you can no longer lower any RS forks with spacers, design is completely different and doesn't allow this anymore with the Solo Air Shaft setup - if somehow have found a way, please share.
    As to what the Phantom is like with a 130mm Pike, I'd imagine going from what I've read it'd be pretty nice, right between a Fox set to 120mm and 130mm since they generally have a lower A2C. Right now back to riding mine with a Trace set to 120mm and love it like this, best all around setup for me and my trails.
    hei..thanks for the information. I ordered Phantom frame/fork set with 120mm Pike yesterday and will look for 130mm air shaft.

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    Phantom build specs thread-img_20150604_065920.jpg

    6'1" tall
    Size: XL
    Fork: 120mm Pike
    Shock: CCDB Inline
    Bar: 780mm Crankbrothes opium3 15° midrise
    Stem: 40mm Truvativ Holzfeller, 2cm spacers
    Seatpost: Command post 125mm
    Crank arm: 175mm XX1 32T chainring
    Wheelset: Novatec Diablo 29
    Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF 2.50
    Drop out: 142x12mm
    Brakes: XT
    Drivetrain: XX RD, adding 42T one up cog

  18. #18
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    Should I get a gxp or bb30 x01 crankset?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Should I get a gxp or bb30 x01 crankset?

    GXP--you'll need the accompanying bottom bracket as well (something like https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=37436 I believe.)

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    Im looking at buying a phantom. But I dont know what forks to buy. Im thinking a 140mm fox 34 anyone else. Run a 140mm fork

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    Fox 34, Pike, Formula 35, whatever suits you
    DVO Diamond is now also available in 29" 140mm...

  22. #22
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    Definitely something in the 34mm> stanchion size, nothing 32mm. As to travel/height, I've run mine now with a Trace @ 120mm, F34 @ 130mm and 140mm and think it handles best with the 120mm height. If you happen to be a more fast DH oriented rider, then maybe 130mm or 140mm might suit you better, but for me who likes to climb as much as descend and like slow, tech descents, the designed for 120mm is perfect.

    Also in general prefer the X-Fusion TRACE over the Fox, just feels better overall and this is the old one, not the new one that you can get with the RC HLR damper.

    Quote Originally Posted by daniel.swattridge View Post
    Im looking at buying a phantom. But I dont know what forks to buy. Im thinking a 140mm fox 34 anyone else. Run a 140mm fork
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  23. #23
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    Im more DH oriented that is for sure. Just not sure if it will handle the 140mm fork or not.

  24. #24
    vko
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    Have it with Trace at 140 and is fine. Changing between steep and middle position depending on where I ride.Steep position is only better on very narrow (bar banging) slow and twisty single track .

  25. #25
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    My Sled

    Phantom build specs thread-img_5093.jpg

    Picked up this frame used from a fellow MTBR member. Every part with the exception of the headset, clamp, and BB for the frame I believe everything came over from my 2013 Epic Carbon Comp. The Phantom's my 'ride everything bike', and I'm loving it for everything I've ridden up in here in the PNW so far. Will post a more comprehensive review when I've got more milage on it.

    Phantom build specs thread-img_5079.jpg

    Me = 6'3" tall, 205ish pounds.
    Size = XL
    Fork = Pike 120mm
    Shock = Fox RP23 (I believe) tuned by Avalanche. While the tune was done for a rider 20 pounds lighter than I , as long as I set sag correctly its AWESOME for me.
    Bar = Race Face SixC, low rise, uncut.
    Stem = Chromag Ranger, 50mm. This is the first upgrade I've done, and with only 4 miles on it, its really helped with control and weighting the front end.
    Post = Reverb @125mm would love a 150mm dropper, as I could use another inch of drop, and the Reverb's issues are driving me nuts.
    Saddle = Chroma Moon
    Crank = 175mm Race Face NEXT SL, 30t DM ring.
    Drop outs = 142mm x 12mm, middle setting for now.
    Wheels = Nox XCX w/ King hubs rims might be a little narrow for a bike like this, but are working well so far, and would cost $$$$$$ to replace. Happy for now!
    Tires = Maxxis Ikon 2.4 F/R
    Brakes = XT, 180 F/R
    Drivetrain = Shimano SLX shifter, XT Shadow+ GS w/ OneUp Rad Cage, XT 11-36 cassette w/ OneUp 42t cog
    Pedals = XTR Trail
    Last edited by padrefan1982; 11-11-2015 at 09:22 PM.

  26. #26
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    I'd think that at your height a 50mm should feel/work fine with a 785mm> bar, I say give it a go, it's a simple and cheap try. As to trying some more "XC" tyres, I say give that a go as well, go for something like the Ikon 2.35" in the back and then something with maybe a tad more aggressive knobs upfront or even try another 2.35" Ikon.

    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    ............Stem = RT Turbine, 70mm, flipped. considering trying out something in the 50mm range
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'd think that at your height a 50mm should feel/work fine with a 785mm> bar, I say give it a go, it's a simple and cheap try. As to trying some more "XC" tyres, I say give that a go as well, go for something like the Ikon 2.35" in the back and then something with maybe a tad more aggressive knobs upfront or even try another 2.35" Ikon.
    Yup-- thats what I'm thinking about, but current funds are completely tapped out right now. Spent all the bike funds I had to pick up the frame! The IKONs in 2.35 were on my mind. Had them a long time ago in the 2.2 flavor, and really liked their speed and grip. I've got some Fast Traks in 2.2 in the garage, so I might try to put those on before a 50mile race this Saturday. Thanks again for the FD advice as well via the PM!

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    Hello
    I'm living in France and I'm looking at the Banshee Phantom.
    Unfortunately, in France, it's not possible to try it before buying it.

    I'm 6'5 - 6'6 tall (1m98)
    Do you think XL size will be ok ? The reach is long, so I don't worry for it. (quite similar as my Camber in XXL size). My question is more for the seatpost height.
    I've seen some photos on this forum, especially an XL phantom belonging to a 6.4 tall guy. It seems the seatpost height is OK .

    Another question : Is the frame can accommodate new Shimano 2x11 ?

    Regards

  29. #29
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    I don't think you'd have any problems, as I stated, I'm 6'2.25" with a 35.25" inseam and I easily fit on a Large, quite a bit of post, but can still use a 360mm post "technically" but I use a 410mm since I like to have more post in the frame.
    Can't see any reason why you couldn't use the new Shimano 11spd stuff, the downtube has space for 3 cables, so running a front mount FD wouldn't be an issue, unless yo also wanted to run a stealth dropper, then you'd have to double up on one cable spot.
    Quote Originally Posted by vvletop View Post
    Hello
    I'm living in France and I'm looking at the Banshee Phantom.
    Unfortunately, in France, it's not possible to try it before buying it.

    I'm 6'5 - 6'6 tall (1m98)
    Do you think XL size will be ok ? The reach is long, so I don't worry for it. (quite similar as my Camber in XXL size). My question is more for the seatpost height.
    I've seen some photos on this forum, especially an XL phantom belonging to a 6.4 tall guy. It seems the seatpost height is OK .

    Another question : Is the frame can accommodate new Shimano 2x11 ?

    Regards
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I don't think you'd have any problems, as I stated, I'm 6'2.25" with a 35.25" inseam and I easily fit on a Large, quite a bit of post, but can still use a 360mm post "technically" but I use a 410mm since I like to have more post in the frame.
    Can't see any reason why you couldn't use the new Shimano 11spd stuff, the downtube has space for 3 cables, so running a front mount FD wouldn't be an issue, unless yo also wanted to run a stealth dropper, then you'd have to double up on one cable spot.
    Agreed on the post length. I'd suggest a 150mm dropper if you can afford it, but I know those are more expensive and almost all seem to use Stealth routing.

    Lynx-- is there any reason he couldn't use the downtube FD routing (which is on the bottom of the downtube on the production Phantoms) or do the newer sideswing FDs require a cable routing that wouldn't work coming up from bottom bracket area? Curious, as I don't get to handle/fondle new, expensive parts much.

    Either way, cabling wouldn't stop you.I pulled this from Banshee's website: "Using only a low direct front derailleur with either a SRAM S3 or a Shimano 2012 and later E2 type with the BB shell plate removed will work. There are two cable stop positions… the middle is for SRAM and the driveside position is for Shimano"

  31. #31
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    No chance to personally handle any oif the new Shimano stuff, but from the videos and literature I've read, they're routing requires the cable to come to the front of the FD like in the illustration below. The big plus of these new Side Swing FDs is they move all the moving parts around to the front/side of the FD away from the rear tyre giving about 15mm more clearance behind the ST.
    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    .........Lynx-- is there any reason he couldn't use the downtube FD routing (which is on the bottom of the downtube on the production Phantoms) or do the newer sideswing FDs require a cable routing that wouldn't work coming up from bottom bracket area? Curious, as I don't get to handle/fondle new, expensive parts much.
    Phantom build specs thread-fd-m8000-e_940x400_v1_m56577569830940297.png.swimg.detail.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    Thank you for your answers.
    So I will try new Shimano then if I manage to have it at good price.

    I hope I will have a photo of a Phantom to post in one ore two weeks

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    No chance to personally handle any oif the new Shimano stuff, but from the videos and literature I've read, they're routing requires the cable to come to the front of the FD like in the illustration below. The big plus of these new Side Swing FDs is they move all the moving parts around to the front/side of the FD away from the rear tyre giving about 15mm more clearance behind the ST.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  33. #33
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    The frame is there. Just a few days now to be able to ride it

    Phantom build specs thread-img_0252.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-img_0253.jpg

  34. #34
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    Here it is

    Banshee Phantom frame XL size
    BOS Dizzy fork
    Cane creek DB inline shock
    XT2016 2x11
    XT2016 brakes
    ZTR arch ex wheels
    Gravity Dropper Seatpost








  35. #35
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    Phantom size L
    Pike 120mm, 51mm offset
    Monarch RT3
    XTR cranks, Blackspire 30T ring
    XTR 1x10 with XT11-36 + 40T expander
    DT Swiss Hubs, Light Bicycle Carbon 35mm rims
    RaceFace SixC bars, Thomson 60mm Stem
    Ginetic Post
    SDG Bell Air 2 Ti Saddle
    XT Brakes, 180 / 160
    Xt Pedals
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.35 Front
    Onza Lynx 2.25 Rear

    Weight, a sniff under 29lbs.


    I love the way it rides, so much fun.

    I'm considering using it for a colorado trail trip next year, be great if it was a little lighter but theres not much scope in the spec I dont think.

  36. #36
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    Interesting how light some of the builds are. Mine is almost 33 lbs. And then I'm running carbon rims, tubeless, 1x10.

  37. #37
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    I think your scale is off. Haven't properly weighed mine, but I'd guess it's right around 30lbs for a Large with XT 2x and not light wheels. Know for sure it's at least 3lbs lighter than my PP Prime which was 34lbs with that same build.
    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Interesting how light some of the builds are. Mine is almost 33 lbs. And then I'm running carbon rims, tubeless, 1x10.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  38. #38
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    Hi!

    Here is mine:



    DVO Diamond is set to 130mm, feels perfect.
    The only change in plans is CC Innline
    apart from the shock - the bike is just perfect.

    Weights about 14kg (31lbs) right now with Shimano XT 1x11 drivetrain.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I think your scale is off. Haven't properly weighed mine, but I'd guess...
    Ah, the guessing game.

  40. #40
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    Have a Phantom inbound, curious about cable routing. I see most folks are crossing the shifter and brake lines in front of the head tube and then cris-crossing them back along the down-tube. Is that correct?

    I like tight, clean routing. Was going to run the shifter nice and short down the right side. Same with brake but down the left.

    Also, @vvletop. . . I see you are running your Gravity Dropper along the down tube. Any specific reason? I was planning to run mine along the top tube on the left (and on left side of handlebar).

  41. #41
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    GUessing from having actually owned a 31lb bike that was weighed on a Park Scale and also my 34lb Prime weighed on an accurate hanging scale, so have a good idea of the heft of a bike
    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Ah, the guessing game.
    Huh on the cable routing. If you run your controls Right Rear/Left Front, then cables just route around HT and run down the DT and exit left and right of the ST, if you run them Moto/Euro, then maybe you'll need to cross them along the DT, prob under the shock.

    As to why VVletop ran his down the DT? That's because his looks to be a stealth routed post and the Phantom has the hole in the St to allow for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by greenblur View Post
    Have a Phantom inbound, curious about cable routing. I see most folks are crossing the shifter and brake lines in front of the head tube and then cris-crossing them back along the down-tube. Is that correct?

    I like tight, clean routing. Was going to run the shifter nice and short down the right side. Same with brake but down the left.

    Also, @vvletop. . . I see you are running your Gravity Dropper along the down tube. Any specific reason? I was planning to run mine along the top tube on the left (and on left side of handlebar).
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    GUessing from having actually owned a 31lb bike that was weighed on a Park Scale and also my 34lb Prime weighed on an accurate hanging scale, so have a good idea of the heft of a bike
    Still don't understand why your guessing should be more accurate than my scale. The bike is heavy, no doubt, and ~15 kilos seems plausible.

    I understand that you can build a Phantom closer to ~13 kilos, but that will likely cost a fortune. Probably double the price I paid for mine.

    Edit: That said, I don't mind the weight too much. A lighter bike at the same price would probably feel flimsy, while the Phanom is dead stiff.

  43. #43
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    My Phantom is around 13,9 -14 kg.
    It's heavy, but not so much ...

    For the cable routing of the gravity dropper, I did it alone the down tube, just because I find more proper to have all the cables at the same place ...

  44. #44
    vko
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    Phantom build specs thread-11297937_10153371369904909_1744044795_n.jpg
    Lev 150
    Slx Levers & RD
    Zee brakes with XT Icetech rotors
    WTB Kom i23 rims on DT350 hubs sapim cx-ray spokes
    Xfusion Trace at 140mm
    Set up 1x10

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    Mine's built up, getting it dialed in. Feels a lot like my BlurTR but with 29" wheels, which is awesome.

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    Phantom build specs thread

    This came yesterday...

    Med. Frame + shock + dropouts w/axle + seat post clamp + headset cups =

    3642g (8.03 lb)


  47. #47
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    Nice. What shock is that, the 02 RCX? How do you like it? Curious how come you've got it oriented that way, find it easier to reach the switch the other way around. Is that a Rune with it? Been on a variety of bikes recently, not been on my Phantom in nearly 3 weeks, so it'll be interesting to see how it feels tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by vko View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lev 150
    Slx Levers & RD
    Zee brakes with XT Icetech rotors
    WTB Kom i23 rims on DT350 hubs sapim cx-ray spokes
    Xfusion Trace at 140mm
    Set up 1x10
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  48. #48
    vko
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    Νο is monarch rt . The frame came with the shock mounted that way . The other bike is a spitfire

  49. #49
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    First thing i'd do with that is turn the shock round. Otherwise, beautiful :-)

    Actually just looked a couple further up too.

    Anybody know why the shocks on recent ones are coming this way round?
    Mine did too, I turned it round straight away.

  50. #50
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    Ah. Keep forgetting that the Spitty also has a 3 part main tri brace, should have known with the similar size tubing as the Phantom.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Nice. What shock is that, the 02 RCX? How do you like it? Curious how come you've got it oriented that way, find it easier to reach the switch the other way around. Is that a Rune with it? Been on a variety of bikes recently, not been on my Phantom in nearly 3 weeks, so it'll be interesting to see how it feels tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  51. #51
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    I'm looking at a Phantom but I'm not sure on the sizing,i'm 6'1" tall with a 33-3/4 inseam.I've noticed people around my height and inseam running both large and X-large,i would be running a short 35-50mm stem.What are your thoughts,did you buy a large and think an XL would be better suited to you or vice versa.Thank you in advance.
    cheers,
    jon

    PS.i live in North Vancouver and ride AM style of terrain.Also have a DH background.

  52. #52
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    I'm 6'2" and feel very comfortable on a large with 50mm stem and 785mm bars. But everyone is different and it will come down to personal preferance. So I suggest you look at the reach and ETT numbers and compare to a bike you have previously owned and felt comfortable on.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  53. #53
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    I'm 6'2.25" with 35.25" inseam and matching long arms (i.e. long as heck) and I'm on a Large with 65mm stem and 785mm bar. I came from an XL Prime pre-production running the same 65mm stem and before that an XL Paradox with 80mm stem and 750mm bar. I went for the Large Phantom because I thought the XL Prime was just a bit too big for me, hard to weight the front on fast stuff and I figured I'd run maybe a 70-80mm stem for a more XC fit and ride.

    The Reach on the Large Phantom is 1cm longer than on the Large Prime and same as the XL Paradox and because of some injuries and old age I guess, my cockpit shortened up and I ended up using the same bar/stem combo off the XL Prime and it feeling fine. Just recently rebuilt the XL Prime with a 45mm stem and 785mm bar and it feels much more controllable now, longer WB did not effect much if any ion the tight stuff and in the tight/tech where I needed to stall/pause, it was much easier to do so, so now thinking I may give an XL Phantom a go.

    So all that being said, if you're looking at running a <50mm stem, then definitely go for the XL, would imagine you'll end up right down on a 35mm IMHO since for my fit that's about where I'll be at to get my preferred cockpit. FYI, I think I am a bit between sizes, as I think a 460-465mm Reach would be ideal for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by rideonjon View Post
    I'm looking at a Phantom but I'm not sure on the sizing,i'm 6'1" tall with a 33-3/4 inseam.I've noticed people around my height and inseam running both large and X-large,i would be running a short 35-50mm stem.What are your thoughts,did you buy a large and think an XL would be better suited to you or vice versa.Thank you in advance.
    cheers,
    jon

    PS.i live in North Vancouver and ride AM style of terrain.Also have a DH background.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  54. #54
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    Ganderson = ~5'7" tall / 30-32" inseam pants
    Size = Medium
    Fork = MRP Stage @ 120mm
    Shock = Cane Creek DBInline
    Bar = Race Face Next 35, 20mm rise
    Stem = 40mm Easton Haven 35
    Post = KS LEV 125mm
    Crank = 165mm Shimano XT, 1X w/ RF 30T NW
    Drop outs = 142mm x 12mm

    Riding = Rocky, technical, lots of ups & downs, punchy ledgy climbs. Not a lot of sustained climbing or descending. Some fast flowy stuff also.

    CC DBInline failed on 4th ride... sent in for warranty repair last week so bike is out of commission right now.

    Phantom build specs thread-img_2340-1-1024x768-.jpgPhantom build specs thread-img_2339-1-1024x768-.jpg

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    The RAW is good looking
    Pity with the Inline - I just got one and works really well.

    this is my black trail ninja:


  56. #56
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    Hi all,

    I am currently using a Monarch RT3 on my Phantom - it's not a bad shock in my opinion. Anyway.....is anybody using the Debonair on his bike - would it make much difference????

  57. #57
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    Shop that sold me the frame didn't have any non-Debonair shocks available, so they bumped me to a Debonair. Initially, I hated it. Great small bump feel but it was blowing through travel pretty easy.

    Talked to Banshee and they don't recommend the Debonair because its not progressive enough. Lines up with what I was feeling. I installed some volume spacers and it makes a big difference. I've tried 2, 3 and 4. 4 was kinda spiky at the end stroke. 2 and 3 feel good. I weigh 205 and ride pretty hard. Running 290-295 psi.

    I decided against the DB Inline because it is not user serviceable. Eventually, I will send my Debonair to Avalanche and get it tuned. For $200, its probably the best option out there if you already have a good, working shock.

  58. #58
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    Thanks, that helps !

  59. #59
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    just curious , if these are the 142 drop outs i need for my Phantom frame ? they say 26er but says any v2 ?
    Banshee V2 142mm 26" Drop Outs > Components > Frames > Derailleur Hangers | Jenson USA

  60. #60
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    Yes, there are only one set available and they were originally designed to fit the Spitfire and Rune to run 650B, but can also be used to give 10mm more room to run 29+ on the Prime and Phantom.

    Quote Originally Posted by Unforgiving View Post
    just curious , if these are the 142 drop outs i need for my Phantom frame ? they say 26er but says any v2 ?
    Banshee V2 142mm 26" Drop Outs > Components > Frames > Derailleur Hangers | Jenson USA
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by rushy41 View Post
    Hi all,

    I am currently using a Monarch RT3 on my Phantom - it's not a bad shock in my opinion. Anyway.....is anybody using the Debonair on his bike - would it make much difference????
    Not quite what you're looking for, but I've been really impressed by the Monarch on my Phantom. Most of the miles I've ridden are on a Fox that was tuned by Avalanche for the previous owner, and while it works great, man, the Monarch seems better to me. Its just the basic R version as well.

  62. #62
    There's always next year.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unforgiving View Post
    just curious , if these are the 142 drop outs i need for my Phantom frame ? they say 26er but says any v2 ?
    Banshee V2 142mm 26" Drop Outs > Components > Frames > Derailleur Hangers | Jenson USA
    From my read, these should be what you need. The 650 dropouts are labeled as such (as a different listing on Jenson).
    Fanatik is another source:

    Normal Set

    650B Set
    Last edited by padrefan1982; 11-11-2015 at 08:42 PM. Reason: outdated information on Jenson...

  63. #63
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    Just to tripple confirm what others have already...

    The '26"' dropouts are what come with prime and phantom to run regular 29" wheels. The reason they are generally known as 26" dropouts is that they are the same dropouts that can be run on runeand spitfire to work with 26"wheels.

    The '650b' dropout is for 650b on rune and spitfire, but will also give clearance for some + size options on the prime and phantom.

    We need to work on the naming, as I appreciate that it is a bit confusing... suggestions welcome!
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Just to tripple confirm what others have already...

    The '26"' dropouts are what come with prime and phantom to run regular 29" wheels. The reason they are generally known as 26" dropouts is that they are the same dropouts that can be run on runeand spitfire to work with 26"wheels.

    The '650b' dropout is for 650b on rune and spitfire, but will also give clearance for some + size options on the prime and phantom.

    We need to work on the naming, as I appreciate that it is a bit confusing... suggestions welcome!
    You could name them "Standard" and "10mm" Dropouts...

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Just to tripple confirm what others have already...

    The '26"' dropouts are what come with prime and phantom to run regular 29" wheels. The reason they are generally known as 26" dropouts is that they are the same dropouts that can be run on runeand spitfire to work with 26"wheels.

    The '650b' dropout is for 650b on rune and spitfire, but will also give clearance for some + size options on the prime and phantom.

    We need to work on the naming, as I appreciate that it is a bit confusing... suggestions welcome!
    Hmmm ... 142x12 "regular" and "long" ... or 142x12 "standard 26/29" and "B/B-plus" ... ?!?

  66. #66
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    few updates on my phantom, 800mm bar, absolute black oval chanring, and made my pike 130mm.

    Phantom build specs thread-imag0784.jpg

    and tested it on a local bike park, this bike is a beast!

    Phantom build specs thread-video0056_0000001384.jpg

    its not a fast run, but managed to hit all the gaps and jumps.


  67. #67
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    Phantom build specs thread-image.jpgPhantom build specs thread-image.jpg

    The highlights....

    Phantom frame size large (I'm 6'2" if anyone needs advice on size)
    Cane Creek inline rear shock
    MRP Stage 29 130mm
    Hope hubs, Ibis 941 hoops
    Hope Crankset
    Hope headset
    Shimano XT brakes/ 1x10 drivetrain (for now)
    Specialized Black Lite post (I know.... But it's the only post I've never had trouble with, even for a taint punch)
    WTB Vigilante front/ Trail Boss rear tires


    Just took it out for its first shakedown. This thing's gonna get me in trouble! CRAZY fun!!!!

  68. #68
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    2 rides on it, obviously many more to come.

    Medium (6'0")
    Cane Creek Inline
    120mm Pike
    DT Swiss 350 hubs
    Flow EX
    Cane Creek 110 headset
    70mm 0 deg stem
    Havoc carbon bars
    X9 shifters
    X0 front mech, X9 2.1 rear
    XT crankset
    810 Saint brakes
    24/38 x 11-36 XT
    125mm LEV
    WTB Vigo

    33.8 lbs
    Low and slack.

  69. #69
    vko
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    @Builtoride Happy new year,
    I'm thinking of upgrading my monarch rt3 on my Phantom to Debonair .
    I'm 104kg riding weight and even at 30% sag is hard to get full travel.
    Is it worth it what should I expect?

  70. #70
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    Missed that you'd gotten yours, so let's hear, how's it been, do you still consider reaching for the Paradox now you have this? How about the Prime? Still a place in your stable for both of them? I know you live in the right place for the Prime for sure, but wonder if that extra edge taken off with the Phantom will negate the Paradox's usefulness. My Large is almost spot on same weight, 'cept no dropper, but heavy WTB ST i25 based wheels.

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post


    2 rides on it, obviously many more to come.

    33.8 lbs
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  71. #71
    live long and huck
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Missed that you'd gotten yours, so let's hear, how's it been, do you still consider reaching for the Paradox now you have this? How about the Prime? Still a place in your stable for both of them? I know you live in the right place for the Prime for sure, but wonder if that extra edge taken off with the Phantom will negate the Paradox's usefulness. My Large is almost spot on same weight, 'cept no dropper, but heavy WTB ST i25 based wheels.
    I stripped the Paradox, sacrificed it to the bike Gods in order to build the Phantom. Sold my El Mariachi SS also. I got to the point that I was doing no SSing, and I was starting to feel a bit beat on the Paradox. You're right about the Prime being the right weapon for my typical riding, but I was wanting something lighter, crisper, still hugely capable, for those little bit smoother and pedally days. I'm running the Phantom middle drop out setting, 68 degrees. I have found that on my chunkfest downhills it simply hauls ass, sure it rides a little harsher, but it gobbles up gnar just as well as the Prime, just without the cush. I initially tried to tune it to be cush and it ended up handling so horrible that I went back to base settings and then started over. I now have it riding "compliant", and it is quite the pleasure. I ended up breaking a couple of my chunky downhill Prime records, and although it did feel like I was going fast, it didn't feel that fast. I have found myself adopting a new "let it all hang out" riding style, I have re-applied that to my Prime style, and I am finding myself ripping through stuff with newfound reckless abandon. And having a blast. Both bikes are amazing. I ended up building up some Easton Arc 30s for the Prime, reusing my LG1+ hubs, like the wide rims, dropped the tires to 2.3 DHFs from 2.5s. Already destroyed the rear wheel on the Phantom, rebuilt it with a very lightly used i23 I had hanging out in the garage. If I trash that I will build with Arc 27s or 24s, the Easton rims are very nice, IMO. Went 150mm on the Phantom. I just mounted up a Minion SS/Tomahawk combo on the Phantom, haven't had an opportunity to ride them yet though. Although the Phantom is now only 1 1/2 lbs lighter than the Prime, it rides and feels substantially lighter, but both bikes handle extremely similar.

    My plan, use the Phantom for longer and more climby/pedally stuff, Prime for more aggressive rides, but yet confidently shred the hell out of everything in my path on either bike. Each has it's definite place in my rides and although I may occasionally wish I had the "other" bike, I'll never have the "wrong" bike.
    Low and slack.

  72. #72
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    I miss my Phantom.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  73. #73
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    Yeah, you've got the Phantom figured out, will almost handle nearly anything the Prime will, but it won't feel as Cadilac plush doing it and you definitely get more feedback, but damn capable. If you're going to build up wheels for the Phantom, don't go for anything less than internal 30mm, honestly. I run i25s and since getting my Dually 45s (39mm internal) and trying them on the Phantom now always wishing I had the 30mm internal and will be swapping out the rims shortly for the WTB Asyn i29s.

    Can't wait to hear your thoughts on that Minion SS Optimus, would really like a lesser rolling tyre that will still give some cornering bite, but not sure how it's braking traction will be. Tried a 2.35" Ikon, but with how dry and loose everything is here, it's absolute crap to get it to brake worth a damn, now trying a XR3 which is doing a good bit better, but love Maxxis rubber
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  74. #74
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    Banshee phantom

    Medium, cant figure out how to add pics on this, advice?
    Last edited by Buildercher; 02-19-2016 at 01:54 PM.

  75. #75
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    Being that this was only your first post, there may be forum rules in place that prevent you from posting photos yet as the site gets lots of spam and there's some stuff set in place to try and stop that. If that's not the case, if you're using a mobile device, no clue, if you're using a computer, just use the GO ADVANCED option you should see next to POST QUICK REPLY and CANCEL below the box when you've clicked reply.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buildercher View Post
    Medium, cant figure out how to add pics on this, advice?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  76. #76
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    I've got several chunky rides in on the Minion SS/Tomahawk, sweet combo for my type of terrain. These tires roll fast, plenty grippy enough rubber, SS hooks up in all kinds of dry chunk, climbs great but you do have to mind your weight transfer a bit more than with a DHF/DHR/HRII rear. I've been up rock, baby heads, rubble, loose over hard, loose, hooks up nicely. Brakes surprisingly well also. Both of these tires though you have to corner a bit aggressively to get down to those side knobs, otherwise the Tomahawk especially feels a little vague. These tires are build on the Minion casing, so you can beat the crap out of them without concern.

    The Phantom is already fast, these tires make it faster.
    Low and slack.

  77. #77
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    6'3" tall / 35" inseam

    Size = XL
    Fork = Pike Solo Air RCT 130mm
    Shock = CC Inline
    Bar = Race Face Atlas 31.8, 785mm width
    Stem = On-One 35mm length
    Post = KS 950 150mm. 31" saddle height.
    Saddle = WTB Volt
    Crank = XT with works 32t narrow wide
    Drop outs = 142mm x 12mm
    Wheels = Spank Oozy295 w/ Hope pro2 evo hubs
    Tires = WTB Vigilante / Trailboss
    Brakes = Magura MT 5 200/180
    Drivetrain = Shimano Saint shifter, XT Shadow, XT 11-36 cassette with some 42t extender ring
    Pedals = XT 785 Trail

    Weight is just under 32lbs/14,5kg

    Pictures show an older setup with
    Maxxis Tires
    Vault pedals
    Charge Saddle
    a different cockpit

  78. #78
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    This year's Phantom build.

    Can't wait to shred this thing.

    Phantom build specs thread-2016-03-06_224918072_45779_ios.jpg

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkbrad View Post
    Can't wait to shred this thing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good luck getting the smile off your face afterwards.
    Low and slack.

  80. #80
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    Good looking photos

    What is the longest eye to eye that will fit?

    Have a couple good short body shocks that I can reduce the stroke, even willing to file that cable stop seen near the bb if needed.
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  81. #81
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    As is you can almost fit a 7.5" i2i shock in there when the rear tri butts on the cable stop, if you remove the Shimano cable stop it lets you extend the travel another little bit, unfortunately I do not have a shock in that length to try. Might even be able to fit a 7.75" in there, but you would have to remove the ISG tab and even then would be a close, to no fit. Had thought of doing this to open up shock options as there's lots more 7.5" shock out there and give a tad more travel.

    Pics attached with rear bolt removed and rear tri left to butt on Shimano cable stop.

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn3902.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn3899.jpg
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  82. #82
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    some offset bushings might help?
    as long as the rear triangle doesn't hit the seattube at full compression, that is.

  83. #83
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    So, shot Keith an e-mail asking about this (had asked before, but not as clearly) and he said not a great idea, anti-squat would be too high, also talked to Craig from Avalanche about it and he agreed, initial small bump compliance would be very bad with any longer shock with the current suspension kinematics of the Phantom. I did find a 7.5x2" stroke shock and with the cable stop removed it fit, but a 7.75" wouldn't work because the linkage would actually hit the frame in other areas, so idea tabled, for now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  84. #84
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    Thanks for that..

    ...same here, for now think I'll listen to -not a great idea

    Edit-

    What are the differences between each of the model years on this Phantom frameset?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  85. #85
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    That's a lot to think about, lining up the clearances for shock body bottom-out / tire to seat tube etc., I see some good meat @ that rear shock moujt : ), your photos helped at the bb there too thanks...and then the ride feel I guess would really be tied to the rocker angle at sag (rearward axle path vs chain tension from drivetrain)

    Just found a vanilla in my bin, 1.75" stroke @ 6.5 or .75" i2i w/ nice size bottom out cone hmm
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  86. #86
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    Swapped over a bunch of parts from previous bike. Cant wait to get a solid ride in on it.

  87. #87
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    Sweet

    Is that an F36 on there? Looks it to me, first one I've seen running one, must be burly as all get out. What travel do you have it set too? Looks to be about 130mm..

    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Swapped over a bunch of parts from previous bike. Cant wait to get a solid ride in on it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  88. #88
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    Its a 34, but it is at 130. I think I prefer the new 34 over the Pike thats on my hardtail. Went over and checked torque on all the bearings, as well as set Inline to Banshee specs. Hope its not too far off when I hit the trail in a little.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Its a 34, but it is at 130. I think I prefer the new 34 over the Pike thats on my hardtail. Went over and checked torque on all the bearings, as well as set Inline to Banshee specs. Hope its not too far off when I hit the trail in a little.
    I wasted a lot of time trying to make my Phantom ride Prime plush, it's not supposed to. It is supposed to be fighter plane snappy, very quick and nimble shredder when properly tuned.
    Low and slack.

  90. #90
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    Yeah, Phantom and Prime ride almost night and day different in how they give feedback from the trail, Phantom gives loads but still eats everything up, Prime feels like a Caddi just plowing over everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    I wasted a lot of time trying to make my Phantom ride Prime plush, it's not supposed to. It is supposed to be fighter plane snappy, very quick and nimble shredder when properly tuned.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    I wasted a lot of time trying to make my Phantom ride Prime plush, it's not supposed to. It is supposed to be fighter plane snappy, very quick and nimble shredder when properly tuned.
    And this is what I want out of it. Its replacing a Stumpjumper that was too much of a sofa.

    Theres alot of stuff to mess with on the inline. Hopefully it doesnt take to long to dial it in.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    And this is what I want out of it. Its replacing a Stumpjumper that was too much of a sofa.

    Theres alot of stuff to mess with on the inline. Hopefully it doesnt take to long to dial it in.
    My two cents was that I found Banshee/CC’s recommendations for the Inline spot on for my riding style. Great pedaling, and as the other poster said, snappy and quick is the MO for a Phantom. And with all that said, its an amazingly capable downhiller for the travel it has.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    My two cents was that I found Banshee/CC’s recommendations for the Inline spot on for my riding style. Great pedaling, and as the other poster said, snappy and quick is the MO for a Phantom. And with all that said, its an amazingly capable downhiller for the travel it has.
    PadreFan is absolutely right. The Inline factory settings on the Tune Card (it comes pre-set with these settings) that came with the shock are spot on. Trust them. Set the sag and rip it.. These settings feel CRAZY weird pedaling around your driveway, but once on dirt they're perfect!! You gotta let us know what you think.....

  94. #94
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    I'm thinking I may have softened the hs a click or so, firmed the ls a click or so, but yeah, factory tune card is pretty darn close.
    Low and slack.

  95. #95
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    Yea I didn't feel the need to mess with factory settings. After two rides im in love with it, I might try to firm up the lsc. It's nice to be able to accelerate out of corners again.

  96. #96
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    Phantom'15 L
    MRP Stage'16 120mm
    Rock Shox Monarch XX
    Shimano XT m8000 34/24 11-40
    Hope M4 180/160
    Mavic Crossmax XL
    Schwalbe Nobby Nick/Rock Razor

  97. #97
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    I'm loving seeing all your phantoms here!

    Just wanted to do a bit of forum research with you all if you don't mind... since you have phantoms and have had time on them... what is your opinion on the ammount of travel the frame offers. Do you have any desire for more, or for less, or is it just right for you?

    Likewise for geometry... any changes you would like to see in future itterations?

    Any feedback would be much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Keith
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  98. #98
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    Keith,

    Ditto my Prime response. Now, a Phantom with the same Phantom razor sharp handling characteristics but with Prime travel, and a longer travel Prime retaining all of the Prime personality, hmmmmmm.

    Should I start planning two new sets of wheels???
    Low and slack.

  99. #99
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    Hey Keith!

    In Moab right now, first trip here for the Phantom. Captain Ahab is a HUGE test for travel and going in I thought it was gonna be overwhelmed. I was wrong. This thing is definitely a case of quality over quantity. Another 10-15MM wouldn't be all bad, but it really DOES feel bottomless with the CC Inline now... Would more travel affect the ride quality?? We wouldn't want that!

    Truly my favorite bike I've ever owned. Riding the chips in the middle setting and an MRP Stage set at 130. My biggest decision is setting it to the slackest setting or maybe even bumping up the travel to 140. YOUR 2 cents on this would be appreciated!!

    PS----this might sound selfish, but bear with me on this.... A buddy of mine is riding an Ibis Mojo HD and they've recently began offering a plus size version. Instead of pizzing off a bunch of Mojo riders by making their new Mojos obsolete, Ibis offers a new rear triangle kit that is Boost (sore subject for most riders) and converts the frame to plus size. He did the conversion and it's FANTASTIC! It might not be possible with the Phantom's design, but I think that if there were any changes coming (travel, plus size, Boost, etc.) this would be pretty cool to at least offer Phantom owners since it is a fairly new model. I think this would create even more brand loyalty. Again, just a thought!! -Rich

  100. #100
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    I won't pretend to understand your business model, but I own both a Phantom and a Prime. I wouldn't change much on either. Except. The carbonz.

    If that's not in the cards, I would only change travel if you plan on changing both bikes slightly (say 115 and 140 or something in that range). Otherwise, maybe just a couple mm off the stays (not radical) and half a tick slacker overall.

    This is minutia, though, as the bike is dialed.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  101. #101
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    Hi Keith,

    Thanks for taking the time to listen to your customers.

    I appreciate the geometry adjust and modular dropouts, please don't change them.

    It would be cool to see a shorter chainstay dropout option. There's plenty of tire clearance in the current traingle.

    Slightly (and I mean slightly) longer top tubes. Bump the medium to around 430 reach. I'm running a 130mm Stage in the slackest setting and I'm at 67HA. I don't need anything slacker than that. If I did, I'd ride a bike with more travel. I wouldn't want the BB any lower than it is.

    Drop the Monarch and go 100% Cane Creek. Ridden both, big difference in performance. Going 100% CC maybe nets you better pricing?

    Travel-wise, 105mm is enough but I can see that being a tough sell to some people. If you only plan to keep two FS 29ers, bump the Phantom to 115-120mm and bump the Prime to 140-150mm.

    If you wanted to go nuts, keep the Phantom at 105mm and put it on a diet. Market it as an heavy XC/light trail bike. Prime goes to 125-130mm, stays beefy and becomes the all-rounder. Add a new enduro bike at 150-160mm travel.

  102. #102
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    Bike is dialed,no changes needed.
    Especially no boost crap please.
    Build it for climbing trails in steep settings with MRP lowered to 120 mm,monarch xx and 2x11 transmission. Bike is perfection.

  103. #103
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    Thanks guys, this is quality feedback!
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    Hey Keith!

    In Moab right now, first trip here for the Phantom. Captain Ahab is a HUGE test for travel and going in I thought it was gonna be overwhelmed. I was wrong. This thing is definitely a case of quality over quantity. Another 10-15MM wouldn't be all bad, but it really DOES feel bottomless with the CC Inline now... Would more travel affect the ride quality?? We wouldn't want that!

    Truly my favorite bike I've ever owned. Riding the chips in the middle setting and an MRP Stage set at 130. My biggest decision is setting it to the slackest setting or maybe even bumping up the travel to 140. YOUR 2 cents on this would be appreciated!!

    PS----this might sound selfish, but bear with me on this.... A buddy of mine is riding an Ibis Mojo HD and they've recently began offering a plus size version. Instead of pizzing off a bunch of Mojo riders by making their new Mojos obsolete, Ibis offers a new rear triangle kit that is Boost (sore subject for most riders) and converts the frame to plus size. He did the conversion and it's FANTASTIC! It might not be possible with the Phantom's design, but I think that if there were any changes coming (travel, plus size, Boost, etc.) this would be pretty cool to at least offer Phantom owners since it is a fairly new model. I think this would create even more brand loyalty. Again, just a thought!! -Rich
    Michael Buell, (Our new US sales manager) runs his phantom with a 140mm fork and loves it... it's just a case of personal preferance and what suits your riding. I recommend anywhere from 110-140mm travel. Whatever floats your boat! Try throwing the dropouts intot he slack setting and see how it feels...you might like it!

    As for the plus size compatibility... the phantom is already 27+ and 29+ compatible up to 2.8" tire. For 29+ you need the longer '650b' dropout. (sorry the name is confusing I know. it's the 650b dropout for the spitfire and rune and increases tire clearance enough to run 29+ in phantom). Jay runs his phantom with 27+ setup and really digs it.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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    Banshee Blog

  105. #105
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    Phantom already can run 150x12 drop outs, why would you "downgrade" to 148 BOOST which is actually only 142mm wide? I run my Phantom with 150x12 and 9spd and it's fantastic, near perfect chainline with 51mm chainline 2x cranks. As to running B+ as an option, already is, no mods needed what so ever, rear will already fit a 3" wide tyre and I've run my Pro2/Asym i35 650b+ wheels (built for Paradox) on it with no issue running a WTB Trailblazer 2.8" rear and 3.0" Trailboss front. I now have true 2.8" Schwalbe Nobby Nics and will give them a go in a bit, but enjoying the crap out of themon the Paradox

    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    PS----this might sound selfish, but bear with me on this.... A buddy of mine is riding an Ibis Mojo HD and they've recently began offering a plus size version. Instead of pizzing off a bunch of Mojo riders by making their new Mojos obsolete, Ibis offers a new rear triangle kit that is Boost (sore subject for most riders) and converts the frame to plus size. He did the conversion and it's FANTASTIC! It might not be possible with the Phantom's design, but I think that if there were any changes coming (travel, plus size, Boost, etc.) this would be pretty cool to at least offer Phantom owners since it is a fairly new model. I think this would create even more brand loyalty. Again, just a thought!! -Rich
    As to possible changes to the Phantom, I think there really aren't any needed, it can already run 135x10, 142x12 and 150x12, stiff as all get out, can run 650B+, 29+. As to lowering the BB, let it stay being lower by running it in the slack setting, I like my BB 13.5"> for serious rock crawling without having to be constantly ratcheting. If by chance you did want to slightly widen the stays for improved mud clearance with PLUS tyres, there's still loads of room, even running a 38/24 2x setup with 51mm chainline, could widen at least a 1/4" each side.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Michael Buell, (Our new US sales manager) runs his phantom with a 140mm fork and loves it... it's just a case of personal preferance and what suits your riding. I recommend anywhere from 110-140mm travel. Whatever floats your boat! Try throwing the dropouts intot he slack setting and see how it feels...you might like it!


    As for the plus size compatibility... the phantom is already 27+ and 29+ compatible up to 2.8" tire. For 29+ you need the longer '650b' dropout. (sorry the name is confusing I know. it's the 650b dropout for the spitfire and rune and increases tire clearance enough to run 29+ in phantom). Jay runs his phantom with 27+ setup and really digs it.
    Thanks Keith!!

    Never was really interested in plus, just any changes made being available to existing Phantom owners by changing the rear triangle!!

    Think I will try the slack setting first...

    Thanks again!!
    Last edited by 1x1Pilot; 04-30-2016 at 04:33 AM.

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Phantom already can run 150x12 drop outs, why would you "downgrade" to 148 BOOST which is actually only 142mm wide? I run my Phantom with 150x12 and 9spd and it's fantastic, near perfect chainline with 51mm chainline 2x cranks. As to running B+ as an option, already is, no mods needed what so ever, rear will already fit a 3" wide tyre and I've run my Pro2/Asym i35 650b+ wheels (built for Paradox) on it with no issue running a WTB Trailblazer 2.8" rear and 3.0" Trailboss front. I now have true 2.8" Schwalbe Nobby Nics and will give them a go in a bit, but enjoying the crap out of themon the Paradox



    As to possible changes to the Phantom, I think there really aren't any needed, it can already run 135x10, 142x12 and 150x12, stiff as all get out, can run 650B+, 29+. As to lowering the BB, let it stay being lower by running it in the slack setting, I like my BB 13.5"> for serious rock crawling without having to be constantly ratcheting. If by chance you did want to slightly widen the stays for improved mud clearance with PLUS tyres, there's still loads of room, even running a 38/24 2x setup with 51mm chainline, could widen at least a 1/4" each side.

    So we are clear here, 150 might be cool in your world, but to stay relevant in the first world, 148 Boost is the trend. No downgrades at all...

    As far as your 51mm chainline, when running a 1x it DOES help, especially when pedaling backwards (the chain won't "walk" down the cassette). This can be accomplished with a Hope, Wolftooth, etc. chain ring.

    Might be the beer talking, or not.....
    Last edited by 1x1Pilot; 06-26-2017 at 02:52 PM.

  108. #108
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    Hi Keith,

    I would say my experience with the phantom has been great, it's the best bike for my riding style/geography. The only thing I find myself thinking about would be a slightly steeper SA and a touch slacker option. I will admit that the SA preference is a knee thing for me so others might not have the same feelings. A piggyback shock option would be a bonus. I think the BB hight is dialed as is. I run mine in slack setting and it would be nice to go a bit slacker while keeping the bb where it is. More travel sounds good, but I think it could take away from the overall feel of the bike.

    Thanks for such a great bike!

  109. #109
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    2x9 (34-11) and 2x10 (36-11), used to run a 32-11 with same rings, but getting a bit older now Any time you're ready to come visit and ride our "flat" island just let me know, will gladly show you how flat it is Somehow despite all the flat, even people from mountainous states and who have done races like Breck Epic and the like, seem to think it's not so flat

    Really, If you're going to be buying a new wheel, why would you buy 148 (really 142) over a 150/157 rear, you get a much better chainline with the 150

    I know there's lots of not so smart people, thankfully Keith is not one, not one to lightly and whimsically make changes just for the sake of it, not unless enough end users ask for it. For the Banshee FS bikes, introducing a new axle standard is as simple as creating new drop outs, so just like Banshee listened about the 142 drop outs they made that did not have the slots, when there's the demand I guess they'll do Boost.

    No clue WTF you're on about with the 51mm chainline comment and back pedaling To me the BS marketing that a lot of manufacturers of components are putting out saying you need new "BOOST" compatible cranks is just that, total and utter BS, you don't need a 53mm chainline for it to work.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Choosing not to engage with the Banshee forum troll, here's my 2 cents:

    I love my Phantom as set up with a 130mm F36 and wide (35mm derby rims). You were ahead of the curve with the geometry as the 29er has seen a revival with the long/low/slack trail bike movement and the Phantom is amongst the best in my biased opinion.

    My wish list would be as follows:

    - lighter weight (I'd by a carbon Phantom in a heartbeat)
    - water bottle cage IN the front triangle
    - shorter seat tube for compatibility with a longer dropper post
    - internal routing for shifting and dropper post (external brake line)
    - boost compatible (or native) depending on whether modular dropouts are used*

    *Boost is only going to become more prevalent so keeping up with the industry is a good thing and could even make it possible to have shorter chain stays and it gives someone the option of investing in wheels and fork the option of swapping between bikes as it becomes less common to find 142 spacing.

    I could also take or leave front derailleur compatibility as I've got more than enough range with 1 x set up for the mountainous terrain in the Pacific Northwest. With the progression of 1x11 and 1x12 drivetrains I honestly think that 2x is not needed, even for XC.

    What I'd keep:
    - threaded BB
    - compatibility with 29" or 27.5" wheels
    - KS link awesomeness

  111. #111
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    [QUOTE=LyNx;12608209]2x9 (34-11) and 2x10 (36-11), used to run a 32-11 with same rings, but getting a bit older now Any time you're ready to come visit and ride our "flat" island just let me know, will gladly show you how flat it is Somehow despite all the flat, even people from mountainous states and who have done races like Breck Epic and the like, seem to think it's not so flat

    Really, If you're going to be buying a new wheel, why would you buy 148 (really 142) over a 150/157 rear, you get a much better chainline with the 150

    I know there's lots of not so smart people, thankfully Keith is not one, not one to lightly and whimsically make changes just for the sake of it, not unless enough end users ask for it. For the Banshee FS bikes, introducing a new axle standard is as simple as creating new drop outs, so just like Banshee listened about the 142 drop outs they made that did not have the slots, when there's the demand I guess they'll do Boost.

    No clue WTF you're on about with the 51mm chainline comment and back pedaling To me the BS marketing that a lot of manufacturers of components are putting out saying you need new "BOOST" compatible cranks is just that, total and utter BS, you don't need a 53mm chainline for it to work.[/QUOTE

    As far as Boost 148, it makes no difference on how it rides compared to 150, it's all about parts availability in the future. EVERYONE has gone to 148. I know Keith is a smart guy, but he asked. A replacement rear triangle or rear dropouts prevent somewhat new frames from becoming obsolete.

    Now let's talk chainline..... Most 1x crank/chainring combo are spaced with a 46-49mm chainline (SRAM, RaceFace, etc.) and I can promise you I've owned almost ALL of them. A Hope crankset (or other crankset with 49MM or greater chainline ring like Wolftooth) will NOT slip down the cassette when back pedaling or "ratcheting" in your top 2 or 3 cogs. Complete head scratcher, but just my experience. No marketing, I speak from actual REAL LIFE experience. And for the record, I've NEVER owned a "Boost Compatible" crankset. You're barking up the wrong tree when calling me out on this one, dude....

    The beer drew me into this, and I hate myself for it.....
    Last edited by 1x1Pilot; 06-26-2017 at 02:54 PM.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevello View Post
    Choosing not to engage with the Banshee forum troll, here's my 2 cents:

    I love my Phantom as set up with a 130mm F36 and wide (35mm derby rims). You were ahead of the curve with the geometry as the 29er has seen a revival with the long/low/slack trail bike movement and the Phantom is amongst the best in my biased opinion.

    My wish list would be as follows:

    - lighter weight (I'd by a carbon Phantom in a heartbeat)
    - water bottle cage IN the front triangle
    - shorter seat tube for compatibility with a longer dropper post
    - internal routing for shifting and dropper post (external brake line)
    - boost compatible (or native) depending on whether modular dropouts are used*

    *Boost is only going to become more prevalent so keeping up with the industry is a good thing and could even make it possible to have shorter chain stays and it gives someone the option of investing in wheels and fork the option of swapping between bikes as it becomes less common to find 142 spacing.

    I could also take or leave front derailleur compatibility as I've got more than enough range with 1 x set up for the mountainous terrain in the Pacific Northwest. With the progression of 1x11 and 1x12 drivetrains I honestly think that 2x is not needed, even for XC.

    What I'd keep:
    - threaded BB
    - compatibility with 29" or 27.5" wheels
    - KS link awesomeness
    Maybe you said it better than I did! Hopefully you won't get the reaction I did...

    Agree totally....

  113. #113
    There's always next year.
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    Keith-- again, a huge thank you for asking our customers for feedback. I shared most of this in the Facebook feedback thread a month or so back, but after getting back from taking my Phantom from Nepal, figured I’d want to share again... (As an aside, the tour was lead by your distributor in Nepal, who joked that there are more glamour shots of Banshees in Nepal than any other bike! The other guide was riding a Spitfire, and got to see how much a good rider can do on that sled.)

    Phantom build specs thread-p1010796.jpg

    I’d love:
    A lighter weight frame*
    An inside frame water bottle mount*

    *not willing to give up frame stiffness or suspension performance for those things though.

    I’d prefer for the suspension travel to stay there or grow just by a tiny amount. (Maybe making the Cane Creek Inline standard?? That shock really opens up the Phantom to what it can be!) Riding in Nepal on unfamiliar trails, I was more or less able to to keep up with guys on bikes with more travel (20-50mm) than mine. The limiter was always me, not the bike. The only place I 'wanted' for more travel was on some downhill ‘roads’ (use the term lightly) with deep ruts, loose everything. Some of that might have been mitigated with a 140mm fork or dropping into the slack settings though.

    • Keep the adjustable dropouts as well. Love how the bike can be transformed by that!
    • Another vote for wanting some Boost dropouts if possible to not change anything else on the frame. The industry’s going that way, and simply giving riders options that shouldn’t impact much is a plus in my book.
    • Want, want, want external cable routing and threaded BB.
    • I’d be willing to lose the FD mount (especially if allowed the chain stays could be shortened up at all?)
    • Please leave the ISCG mounts though!
    • Standover’s great; geometry’s outstanding and on point for me.



    The Phantom’s the first bike I can remember owning and, a year in, not having a desire to look at "anything else!” I bought mine used, and honestly, if I was given $$$ for a new bike right now, I’d come back and buy a brand new Phantom simply to support the brand and get it when it was shiny and new! Best bike ever!

    Phantom build specs thread-img_6550.jpg

  114. #114
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    Awesome pics padrefan! Must have been a great ride and I would imagine the Phantom would be a worthy companion in terrain like that.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Thanks guys, this is quality feedback!
    b


    Booboostboost dropouts, shorter chainstays in slack setting

  116. #116
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    over a year now, and switched over to 1X11 a week ago

    using it as my one bike do it all and I mean do it all (except for pure dh)
    M frame ( should have taken L )
    running 2 set of wheels- lighter set shown in the pictures for exc riding , smooth trails, long epic ride up to 100 milers and bike packing. also, a more sturdy set for more extreme riding or harsh terrain (hans dampf and conti 2.4 on dt xm rims )

    pic with white saddle was the original setting and now, with next crank and 1X11 sys, its siitting right at 12.6 kg with the lighter set and 13.6 with the other.

    the frame is so capable and stiff that I dont see nothing to change in geo and travel wise.

    I did notice more bobing, moving from 38t ring to 30t. added few clicks to the lsc (which was 12 clicks to start with as oppossed to the 9 clicks on the manuel ).

    I think the kinematics need to be refined a bit more, although in tech trails you merely feel it and the bike realy shine there.
    love the adjustable dropout and do change it between seasons.

    carbon was the future. now its becoming obsolete not to use it. would probably save over a pound if not more.

    learned to ignore the absence of the bottle cage.

    but overall, very pleased with this bike and I feel mucho confident with its handling.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Phantom build specs thread-20160423_213639.jpg  

    Phantom build specs thread-20160424_110936.jpg  

    Phantom build specs thread-20160424_110928.jpg  

    Phantom build specs thread-20150324_135500.jpg  


  117. #117
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    Great feedback guys, keep it coming. Just remember that everyone is allowed to have their own opinion, and thats just fine! Riding bikes is fun!!

    2016 Banshee Phantom For Sale

    just incase anyone was after a medium phantom...
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    Banshee Blog

  118. #118
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    I'm a troll because I have my own opinion and think BOOST is the biggest amount of BS since 142 and take offense to a BS comment like "In the 1st world we need...". I've experienced enough "1st worlders" who've come down from BIG MOUNTAIN places and sucked a$$ on the climbs here and were wishing for an easier gear than the 22-36 low gear on my loaner/rental Paradox's.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    Maybe you said it better than I did! Hopefully you won't get the reaction I did...

    Agree totally....
    Choosing not to engage with the Banshee forum troll, here's my 2 cents:
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  119. #119
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    In my view the geometry of the Phantom is pretty spot-on, I would only consider minor changes (most of them have already been mentioned)

    - a bit more travel (120mm max)
    - a slightly longer TT in size medium
    - slighty shorter chainstays (for the shorter is better cult :=) )


    And I would not go 1x only - 2x drivetrains are still popular in Europe, especially in areas with high mountains (and I don't know your sales figures but I have the feeling that the Phantom is selling very well in Germany and Austria). That should not be the start of an ideological discussion about drivetrains! :=) )

    The weight of the Phantom is a non-issue for me but I know that some riders view Banshees as overbuilt and want to have a Carbon option as well.

  120. #120
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    Interesting discussion! :-) I'm selling my Phantom since I've realized that it's "too much bike" for what I want to do with it. Mainly it feels too tank-ish, but I really like the geometry in general.

    What I would change if I could:

    – Shorter chainstays! It takes some effort to lift the front wheel.
    – Maybe even more clearance for rear tires. I know plus fits, but it will be extremely tight.
    – Slightly taller steerer tube. The front is pretty low, even with a 130 mm fork.
    – 130 mm fork as standard. I think it's spot on for the geo overall, at all three dropout settings.
    – A tad steeper seat tube angle wouldn't hurt, and I guess it would also make shorter stays easier to implement.

    No need for longer rear travel. Perhaps just make it 110 mm because it looks better on paper. ;-)

  121. #121
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    WOW, cannot say that my Phantom has EVER felt "tankish", capable yes, can tackle more than you might think, but never, ever tankish.
    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Interesting discussion! :-) I'm selling my Phantom since I've realized that it's "too much bike" for what I want to do with it. Mainly it feels too tank-ish, but I really like the geometry in general.
    Don't know what other bikes you've ridden or tried, but I've had my hands on a good few, of varying sizes and NONE can hold a candle to how easy the Phantom is to get the front up, none, not the old SJ FSR, not the new SJ FSR, not the Following, not a V1 Tallboy, not a Tallboy LT, Not the Rumblefish, not the FuelEX, although will say the 2 Treks were the closest AND the owners of those bikes agreed, said they couldn't believe how easy it was to pop the front on the Phantom.

    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    What I would change if I could:

    – Shorter chainstays! It takes some effort to lift the front wheel.
    – Maybe even more clearance for rear tires. I know plus fits, but it will be extremely tight.
    – Slightly taller steerer tube. The front is pretty low, even with a 130 mm fork.
    – 130 mm fork as standard. I think it's spot on for the geo overall, at all three dropout settings.
    – A tad steeper seat tube angle wouldn't hurt, and I guess it would also make shorter stays easier to implement.

    No need for longer rear travel. Perhaps just make it 110 mm because it looks better on paper. ;-)
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    WOW, cannot say that my Phantom has EVER felt "tankish", capable yes, can tackle more than you might think, but never, ever tankish.
    Maybe you are just taller and heavier than I (185 cm, 80 kg).


    Don't know what other bikes you've ridden or tried, but I've had my hands on a good few, of varying sizes and NONE can hold a candle to how easy the Phantom is to get the front up, none, not the old SJ FSR, not the new SJ FSR, not the Following, not a V1 Tallboy, not a Tallboy LT, Not the Rumblefish, not the FuelEX, although will say the 2 Treks were the closest AND the owners of those bikes agreed, said they couldn't believe how easy it was to pop the front on the Phantom.
    All of those are 29:ers, right? There you have it.

  123. #123
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    Actually I am your height and 10lns lighter
    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Maybe you are just taller and heavier than I (185 cm, 80 kg).
    Well of course, is there anything else? Seriously, I haven't ridden a smaller wheeled bike in 9 years next month, 29ers suit me and my style and my trails and the types of trails I like to ride. 4-5 years ago when a lot of the guys who used to ride started back,they all got 26er FS and when I joined them on my 29er HT, they used to make fun, but I was faster than them, rode things they rode, rode things they couldn't and so now, all but 1 guy rides 29ers, they just work for the riding here and in truth, make the small chatter not so great and the rollover just that bit better.
    Not sure how much easier you would want the front wheel to come up, personally my Phantom's comes up scary easy, definitely would be very easy to loop out if you weren't paying attention, but then again,maybe I use the proper technique

    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    All of those are 29:ers, right? There you have it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  124. #124
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    Howzabout a little Phantom stoke?

    Little bit of Bug Springs trail, Mt Lemmon, Tucson AZ.

    Bug Springs 4 Video - Pinkbike
    Low and slack.

  125. #125
    vko
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    That's my youtube channel most videos are from my helmet camera riding my Phantom
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2p...rlSm-fGeU8f3Ug

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Interesting discussion! :-) I'm selling my Phantom since I've realized that it's "too much bike" for what I want to do with it. Mainly it feels too tank-ish, but I really like the geometry in general.

    What I would change if I could:

    – Shorter chainstays! It takes some effort to lift the front wheel.
    – Maybe even more clearance for rear tires. I know plus fits, but it will be extremely tight.
    – Slightly taller steerer tube. The front is pretty low, even with a 130 mm fork.
    – 130 mm fork as standard. I think it's spot on for the geo overall, at all three dropout settings.
    – A tad steeper seat tube angle wouldn't hurt, and I guess it would also make shorter stays easier to implement.

    No need for longer rear travel. Perhaps just make it 110 mm because it looks better on paper. ;-)
    I can see your point on the "tank" thing. I can only speak for my own experience, and it's my favorite bike I've ever owned. It's perfect for the riding here in South Central Montana (rocky, ledgy, punchy climbs) and perfect for me. BUT---- I've tried almost everything to get it under 30 pounds (RaceFace Next cranks, carbon Ibis wheels, etc.) and the only thing left to do would be lighter parts in places that would sacrifice burl or take out tire sealant and I refuse to do either of these things. Does it pedal like 30 pounds? Nope. Does the way I describe it sound like the definition of a tank? Yep. Tank can also mean overbuilt, which means incredibly solid and stiff as [email protected] It probably wouldn't be my choice if I lived near 2-3 hour groomed climbs, but I don't. To each their own.

    There are a ton of keyboard badasses, as you probably already know. My advice is don't make the same mistake I did by engaging them (the beer made me do it), it just ends up making you feel bad. Then go buy what makes you happy and rip it!!
    Last edited by 1x1Pilot; 05-17-2016 at 08:09 AM.

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    There are a ton of keyboard badasses, as you probably already know. My advice is don't make the same mistake I did by engaging them (the beer made me do it), it just ends up making you feel bad. Then go buy what makes you happy and rip it!!
    Yes, I've been riding in a more "active" way lately, since getting a HT singlespeed that forces me to stand up and pedal 95% of the time. So when I got back on the Phantom it just felt huge, slow and overbuilt. I love it for what it is, but I'm moving to a smaller, nimbler bike (SC 5010).
    I can't say I have a problem with the chainstays on the Phantom, but after riding with 420 mm stays and smaller wheels for a while, the difference is huge. Everything feels better with a short rear end and I don't need the stability of longer stays.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makten View Post
    Yes, I've been riding in a more "active" way lately, since getting a HT singlespeed that forces me to stand up and pedal 95% of the time. So when I got back on the Phantom it just felt huge, slow and overbuilt. I love it for what it is, but I'm moving to a smaller, nimbler bike (SC 5010).
    I can't say I have a problem with the chainstays on the Phantom, but after riding with 420 mm stays and smaller wheels for a while, the difference is huge. Everything feels better with a short rear end and I don't need the stability of longer stays.
    If you're a singlespeeder, Probably feels pretty weird to get on your Phantom!! Night and day I'm sure! Definitely not hardtail responsive....

    Shouldn't have any trouble selling it.

  129. #129
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    If your other bike is even burlier, then a Phantom is a jet fighter.
    Low and slack.

  130. #130
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    My Phantom

    Phantom build specs thread-dsc_0106.jpg

    Just got a Monarch RL as a spare for when I have to send the Inline away for service, but I have trouble getting it setup right.
    Got the M/M tune and even at 35-40% sag I still wont be able to to use full travel. Wrong tune or any adjustment I can do?

  131. #131
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    the shock's stroke is 44 mm while the pistion exposes a fair bit more (i'd say ca. 10 mm) length than that. in other words you will not be able to push that o-ring to the end of that shaft as it's typical on other shock dimensions. maybe this is mis-leading you?

  132. #132
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    I think that tune might be a bit too much for the Phantom, AFAIR Keith said that you wanted a light tune, but I'm sure once he's gotten himself back together after the Scotish DH this past weekend he will chime in. As to the actual shock, my X-Fusion 02 RCX is the same way, actual shaft length is longer than stroke, so o-ring stops about 5-7mm from end.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zuzi View Post
    the shock's stroke is 44 mm while the pistion exposes a fair bit more (i'd say ca. 10 mm) length than that. in other words you will not be able to push that o-ring to the end of that shaft as it's typical on other shock dimensions. maybe this is mis-leading you?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonne View Post
    Just got a Monarch RL as a spare for when I have to send the Inline away for service, but I have trouble getting it setup right.
    Got the M/M tune and even at 35-40% sag I still wont be able to to use full travel. Wrong tune or any adjustment I can do?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonne View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just got a Monarch RL as a spare for when I have to send the Inline away for service, but I have trouble getting it setup right.
    Got the M/M tune and even at 35-40% sag I still wont be able to to use full travel. Wrong tune or any adjustment I can do?
    First off, love that color still, and good job matching with the fork and wheels! My backup Monarch does the same as well, so I think it might just be the nature of the beast...

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I think that tune might be a bit too much for the Phantom, AFAIR Keith said that you wanted a light tune, but I'm sure once he's gotten himself back together after the Scotish DH this past weekend he will chime in. As to the actual shock, my X-Fusion 02 RCX is the same way, actual shaft length is longer than stroke, so o-ring stops about 5-7mm from end.
    I sent an email to Keith as well and he thought the M/M tune would be spot on for my weight (210-220 lbs), so it seems that it's just me being confused and thought the shock would use the whole piston when compressed.
    I just did another run and used 25% sag and think the shock works well =).

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    First off, love that color still, and good job matching with the fork and wheels! My backup Monarch does the same as well, so I think it might just be the nature of the beast...
    Thanks!
    Really like the bike and it seems that it's the way the shock is designed. The Inline is probably about the same if I just measure and think about it.

  136. #136
    vko
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    Tried it and I think I like it (put it to slack with 140 fork) . I'll check it in some more trails to be sure but first impression more than positive.
    What's your opinion for 27+?

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Michael Buell, (Our new US sales manager) runs his phantom with a 140mm fork and loves it... it's just a case of personal preferance and what suits your riding. I recommend anywhere from 110-140mm travel. Whatever floats your boat! Try throwing the dropouts intot he slack setting and see how it feels...you might like it!

    As for the plus size compatibility... the phantom is already 27+ and 29+ compatible up to 2.8" tire. For 29+ you need the longer '650b' dropout. (sorry the name is confusing I know. it's the 650b dropout for the spitfire and rune and increases tire clearance enough to run 29+ in phantom). Jay runs his phantom with 27+ setup and really digs it.

  137. #137
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    Hum, can't find my correspondence with him on it, but swear I remember him saying a lighter tune since the suspension didn't need much in that way, but maybe that's for me as I'm only 165lbs wet, geared up about 180-185lbs normally, on loaded days might top 190-195lbs, but that's it. Glad to hear the M/M is right, as that's all I'm seeing for any shocks in the 184x44 length.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonne View Post
    I sent an email to Keith as well and he thought the M/M tune would be spot on for my weight (210-220 lbs), so it seems that it's just me being confused and thought the shock would use the whole piston when compressed.
    I just did another run and used 25% sag and think the shock works well =).
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  138. #138
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    Man...just bought a used Phantom and the Inline is blown. It's $160 for a rebuild w/90 warranty. Seems like a lot to spend on a shock that could blow up in 4 months. Can anyone testify on how the Avalanche valved fox float performs? Seems like a good deal for $180 considering the fox float can be had for around $200 on Ebay. Curious how the Avy compares to the Inline on the Phantom.

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Man...just bought a used Phantom and the Inline is blown. It's $160 for a rebuild w/90 warranty. Seems like a lot to spend on a shock that could blow up in 4 months. Can anyone testify on how the Avalanche valved fox float performs? Seems like a good deal for $180 considering the fox float can be had for around $200 on Ebay. Curious how the Avy compares to the Inline on the Phantom.

    Find Blatant, I'm thinking he has a fondness for Avy tuned stuffs. And he had a Phantom.
    Low and slack.

  140. #140
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    Havent ridden my Phantom in a bit. Today's ride consisted of a bunch of climbs with no real reward.

    Phantom build specs thread-13320164_257989841230890_865995921_n.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-13380887_1774009982845731_1305934601_n.jpg

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Great idea, breed those beasts!!!!!
    Low and slack.

  142. #142
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    Hello!

    First time Banshee owner, just finished building this over the weekend, using almost all the oarts from my last bike (Turner Sultan):
    -Phantom XL w/CC Inline
    -Pike @140mm
    -King/Hope hubs laced to Flow EXs, Hans Dampf/Magic Mary
    -190mm Profile Racing cranks (42" inseam...) w/30 n/w RF chainring
    -XT brakes 200/180mm
    -Reverb seatpost, 480mm/170mm

    Running the flip chips in the steepest setting to start with, depending on the number of pedal strikes I'll also try the middle setting.

    Hoping to get the first ride within a couple of days. Really excited!!


    Also - I want to give a big thanks to Keith @Banshee and Bernhard @everyday26, who went out of their way to help me get this frame. Thanks guys!!Phantom build specs thread-image1466450739.501313.jpg

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen View Post
    Hello!

    First time Banshee owner, just finished building this over the weekend, using almost all the oarts from my last bike (Turner Sultan):
    -Phantom XL w/CC Inline
    -Pike @140mm
    -King/Hope hubs laced to Flow EXs, Hans Dampf/Magic Mary
    -190mm Profile Racing cranks (42" inseam...) w/30 n/w RF chainring
    -XT brakes 200/180mm
    -Reverb seatpost, 480mm/170mm

    Running the flip chips in the steepest setting to start with, depending on the number of pedal strikes I'll also try the middle setting.

    Hoping to get the first ride within a couple of days. Really excited!!


    Also - I want to give a big thanks to Keith @Banshee and Bernhard @everyday26, who went out of their way to help me get this frame. Thanks guys!!Click image for larger version. 

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    Looking great! I really like the black/black version of this frame. Regarding the flip chips: I rode my bike in the slackest position when I first got it, now I'm using the steeper position. Pedal striking in either position wasn't an issue but I can corner a little faster in the steeper position. My fork is still setup at 150mm so I take it that's helping me from bashing my pedals.

  144. #144
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    Yeah, but running a 150mm fork you already slackened the HTA by about 1.4 degrees (depending on which for it is), so in the steep setting you're still slacker than running it with stock fork in the slack setting by almost a 1.4 degrees, your HTA is somewhere around 67*. How's it climb? Most travel I've run mine with is 140mm on an F34 and Trace, climbing was OK, but had to really work on the steep stuff, really work, but descending was crazy.

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Looking great! I really like the black/black version of this frame. Regarding the flip chips: I rode my bike in the slackest position when I first got it, now I'm using the steeper position. Pedal striking in either position wasn't an issue but I can corner a little faster in the steeper position. My fork is still setup at 150mm so I take it that's helping me from bashing my pedals.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yeah, but running a 150mm fork you already slackened the HTA by about 1.4 degrees (depending on which for it is), so in the steep setting you're still slacker than running it with stock fork in the slack setting by almost a 1.4 degrees, your HTA is somewhere around 67*. How's it climb? Most travel I've run mine with is 140mm on an F34 and Trace, climbing was OK, but had to really work on the steep stuff, really work, but descending was crazy.
    Yeah.. it feels balanced to me with my Stage 150mm fork but then again I haven't tried 130mm or 140mm yet. I have a feeling I will settle with a 140mm but I'm still testing it out. In the slacked position w/150mm fork it feels crazy confident on the downs. Climbing is obviously a little clumsy but still totally acceptable IMO. Same with the steeper position w/150mm. As many have said, the geometry on this bike is really good. I love that I can transform the bike in 5 minutes via flip chips. I hope they don't change it. I'm coming off a 2014 Remedy 29er and I can't believe how much faster I am on this bike. It beats me up a little more but I finally have that 26" like control again on corners and jumps.

  146. #146
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    What's the actual A2C on that fork @ 150mm if you don't mind? For me 150mm would be too much, slack it out too much, even for descending, would really need to concentrate on weighting the front wheel to keep it from washing. I think I've settled on running it with a 130mm fork to give it just a little bit more for the downs, while remaining very good on the ups.

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Yeah.. it feels balanced to me with my Stage 150mm fork but then again I haven't tried 130mm or 140mm yet. I have a feeling I will settle with a 140mm but I'm still testing it out. In the slacked position w/150mm fork it feels crazy confident on the downs. Climbing is obviously a little clumsy but still totally acceptable IMO. Same with the steeper position w/150mm. As many have said, the geometry on this bike is really good. I love that I can transform the bike in 5 minutes via flip chips. I hope they don't change it. I'm coming off a 2014 Remedy 29er and I can't believe how much faster I am on this bike. It beats me up a little more but I finally have that 26" like control again on corners and jumps.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    What's the actual A2C on that fork @ 150mm if you don't mind? For me 150mm would be too much, slack it out too much, even for descending, would really need to concentrate on weighting the front wheel to keep it from washing. I think I've settled on running it with a 130mm fork to give it just a little bit more for the downs, while remaining very good on the ups.
    Axle to Crown is 558 mm on the Stage set at 150 mm. A Pike is 561 mm set at 150 mm.

    I've got my Stage set at 130 and my Phantom in the middle setting. Been thinking about going to the slack setting and/or 140 on my fork. Interested in more feedback on the Stage at 150!!

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    Axle to Crown is 558 mm on the Stage set at 150 mm. A Pike is 561 mm set at 150 mm.

    I've got my Stage set at 130 and my Phantom in the middle setting. Been thinking about going to the slack setting and/or 140 on my fork. Interested in more feedback on the Stage at 150!!

    I can confirm it rides great at 150mm in the steep drop out position. The geometry feels super balanced to me. No issues with washing out and zero issues with pedal strikes. I use a short 30mm stem so I can 'weight' right over the bars when needed to pump turns. I also set the bottom out knob on my Stage 5-6 clicks in to keep the fork from diving which seems to balance out the suspension well. As mentioned 150mm gives the bike about 67 degrees which for me is the sweet spot for all mountain riding. Admittedly, the slacker drop outs w/150mm fork felt a touch slack for single track riding but I might consider it if I was headed to place with a lot of downhill stuff. This bike feels much more planted and balanced than my Remedy 29er and WAY more fun. That said, I'm going to try 140mm to compare, maybe even try 130mm. Right now I'm enjoying the setup as is. I will post pictures so you can see what it looks like with 150mm.

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    I can confirm it rides great at 150mm in the steep drop out position. The geometry feels super balanced to me. No issues with washing out and zero issues with pedal strikes. I use a short 30mm stem so I can 'weight' right over the bars when needed to pump turns. I also set the bottom out knob on my Stage 5-6 clicks in to keep the fork from diving which seems to balance out the suspension well. As mentioned 150mm gives the bike about 67 degrees which for me is the sweet spot for all mountain riding. Admittedly, the slacker drop outs w/150mm fork felt a touch slack for single track riding but I might consider it if I was headed to place with a lot of downhill stuff. This bike feels much more planted and balanced than my Remedy 29er and WAY more fun. That said, I'm going to try 140mm to compare, maybe even try 130mm. Right now I'm enjoying the setup as is. I will post pictures so you can see what it looks like with 150mm.
    I kinda dig your philosophy. Fork the hell out it but not uncomfortably slack. DEFINITELY keep us all informed of what you're doing to that thing and what you think.

    This frame is so versatile, but I can't find a thread anywhere that people are changing it up and giving opinions......

  150. #150
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    Getting newbikitis you turds! So many nice Phantoms.

    I currently have a 31-32lb (guess) Spitfire that is built pretty burly. It's set up slack/160mm. It's hella fun on the descents but for bigger rides, I'd been considering a Phantom for a long time. Is anyone building these at 28-29lbs for a medium or large? Hate to be a weight weenie but I'm just trying to make sure if I got a more trail/XC bike that still rips, it's separate enough from my Spitfire that I don't end up with two of the same.

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Getting newbikitis you turds! So many nice Phantoms.

    I currently have a 31-32lb (guess) Spitfire that is built pretty burly. It's set up slack/160mm. It's hella fun on the descents but for bigger rides, I'd been considering a Phantom for a long time. Is anyone building these at 28-29lbs for a medium or large? Hate to be a weight weenie but I'm just trying to make sure if I got a more trail/XC bike that still rips, it's separate enough from my Spitfire that I don't end up with two of the same.
    My med is 33 lbs, built kinda medium heavy duty, rips like it is lighter, pedals nice.
    Low and slack.

  152. #152
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    Not a chance, not unless you're dropping some SERIOUS $$ into the build and even then not so sure. My Large weighs 33lbs 6oz with F34, 2x10spd XTR RD/Zee shifter, XT brakes, Pro2/Asym i29 wheels, Minion SS/DHR2, 9point8 Falline dropper, WTB Pure PRO, Funn stem & Fatboy bar. I mean you could run lighter carbon rims without much durability and loose about a pound, other than that I can't see being able to drop 5 lbs without running absolutely useless XC tyres and missing the intent of the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Getting newbikitis you turds! So many nice Phantoms.

    I currently have a 31-32lb (guess) Spitfire that is built pretty burly. It's set up slack/160mm. It's hella fun on the descents but for bigger rides, I'd been considering a Phantom for a long time. Is anyone building these at 28-29lbs for a medium or large? Hate to be a weight weenie but I'm just trying to make sure if I got a more trail/XC bike that still rips, it's separate enough from my Spitfire that I don't end up with two of the same.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  153. #153
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    Following LyNx's lead, mine's 2x XT, SRAM shifters, carbon bars, Saint brakes, KS LEV 120mm, 120mm Pike, DT Swiss 350 hubs, Frequnecy i23 rims (go easy on me, they were hanging in my garage).
    Low and slack.

  154. #154
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    I agree with everyone here. I got obsessed with getting below 30 lbs. I got to around 30 depending on how much tire sealant. MRP Stage, Hope Pro2 hubs laced to Ibis carbon rims, RaceFace carbon bars, XTR 11 speed rear derailleur, XT 11 speed cassette, etc... My obsession ended when I bought a set of RaceFace Next cranks and was still above 30..... Can't be done without fragile, super light parts and sissy tires!!!

  155. #155
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    Ok ok ok you guys confirmed my suspicions. I need to find one local to pedal around and see how it does. I've never been fast on climbs and never had a light bike, not sure why I am interested in these things now!!

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Ok ok ok you guys confirmed my suspicions. I need to find one local to pedal around and see how it does. I've never been fast on climbs and never had a light bike, not sure why I am interested in these things now!!
    The Phantom climbs and rides substantially lighter than what it weighs in at, nice crisp and snappy bike, that is quite heavy duty. You can finese it one minute, then beat the crap out of it the next.
    Low and slack.

  157. #157
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    Agree with above. The bike is tight and snappy. Don't worry about the weight, since building one sub-30 is a chore and takes away from the essence of the bike.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    The Phantom climbs and rides substantially lighter than what it weighs in at, nice crisp and snappy bike, that is quite heavy duty. You can finese it one minute, then beat the crap out of it the next.
    Agreed with everybody else who’s weighed in. My XL was right at 30 lbs, 10 oz. now with Ardents and a bash guard. I haven’t weighed it since. I absolutely hate when reviews use phrases like “climbs lighter than it actually is", etc... but it seems to fit. The bike can absolutely snap off and accelerate when needed, and can be driven right down some pretty harsh lines at the same time. Anytime I think about how ‘great' it would be to have the bike weigh less, I remember that I should just drop that weight from myself first, and which would achieve far better results...
    Last edited by padrefan1982; 07-06-2016 at 08:13 PM. Reason: updated weight and specs

  159. #159
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    Here is a little fun I had on my Phantom this morning.

    AZT drop in Video - Pinkbike

    Redington Rd Video - Pinkbike
    Low and slack.

  160. #160
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    So here's a few pics of my just recently upgraded Phantom, think it is basically done now, just waiting to get a new axle for my Trace to get that back on there. Upgrades were...moved from 9spd to 10spd, stuck to my preferred 2X setup, but dropped to a 36t big ring from 38t. New XT shifters, FD, crank, cassette, chain, cobbled together XTR RD from 3 broken ones and new 9point8 Falline 150mm dropper (working like a charm so far). The Shimano side swing FDs are sweet to say the least, work absolutely fine with the 10spd shifter, huge improvement over older versions, nothing behind the ST now to help collect/clog with mud.

    Finally got 180mm cranks, so moved from a 65mm stem to 70mm and moved the saddle forward 5mm and liking them, haven't noticed extra pedal strikes, but running the F34 @ 140mm I'd not expect to.

    Have had the wheels for a few months now, WTB Asym i29 rims re-laced to my trusty Hope Pro2/Nukeproof hubs I was previously running. Only thing I might like to do is get a clear bash to protect the big ring for the chunk I like to ride.

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4676.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4668.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4665.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4696.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  161. #161
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    Very nice LyNx. How are you liking that MinionSS? I find in the dry that I ride it works very well, Tomahawk works pretty nice too. Even though they are both on the same casing, I can definitely tell the different between them and my fav DHF when I'm pounding through chunk. Some of it though may also be the old 23mm rims that I built up for this bike. Speaking of, I have some Oozy 345 Trail on the way, Phantom is getting new hoops. I fight myself constantly with lengthening my fork back out to 140mm, or even 130, and slacking out the chips, right now it is a good contrast/compliment to the Prime. Yesterday was my first good ride on the Phantom with it 1x10, put a Sunrace 11-42 cassette on, appears very well built and functions perfectly, for just $58, hell of a bargain in my book.
    Low and slack.

  162. #162
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    To answer your questions....
    Right now I'm liking the Minion SS since we've had some rain, now have a bit of braking traction and lots more climbing traction than when it was completely dry and blown out, there was no real sort of braking traction, just try to control how far out the rear stepped and try to feather and control it. Still not as much control on the really steep trail we just finished as I'm accustomed to of course with the Smorgasbord, but lots better.

    For travel wise, I normally run an X-Fusion Trace set to 120mm with chips in the steep setting on the Phantom, as I determined for me that it gave the best balance of steep climbing and descending. Of course the 140mm makes descending a bit better on the really steep stuff, but when I get my new axle for the Trace I think I'll take it up to 130mm as measuring the F34 and the Trace in current configurations the Trace is over 20mm shorter (I wrote the F34 is @ 140mm, but AFAIK I set if for 130mm, but shows more than 140mm of stanchion). Also considering the new RC HLR damper upgrade for the Trace so I can have more adjustments as I am starting to push my riding harder and hitting some drops.

    Rims, will never run anything under 25mm IW again, unless it's on a road wheelset, wide is just so much better, gives the casing/sidewall so much more support and stops tyre roll. I'd love to go wider than the i29s, but don't like the lack of protection the rim has, but I tried my On One tyre combo on my Dually45s the traction was amazing.

    Did not realise that the Sunrace cassette was so damn cheap, just upgraded my young cousins bike to a 42 expander cog for about the same price, had to swap out his cheaper cassette for one of my XTs to be able to add the 16t cog in to smooth out the gearing, may well order up one and swap that in for him and get my XT cassette back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Very nice LyNx. How are you liking that MinionSS? I find in the dry that I ride it works very well, Tomahawk works pretty nice too. Even though they are both on the same casing, I can definitely tell the different between them and my fav DHF when I'm pounding through chunk. Some of it though may also be the old 23mm rims that I built up for this bike. Speaking of, I have some Oozy 345 Trail on the way, Phantom is getting new hoops. I fight myself constantly with lengthening my fork back out to 140mm, or even 130, and slacking out the chips, right now it is a good contrast/compliment to the Prime. Yesterday was my first good ride on the Phantom with it 1x10, put a Sunrace 11-42 cassette on, appears very well built and functions perfectly, for just $58, hell of a bargain in my book.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  163. #163
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    Currently have my Pike shortened to 120mm, chips in the center, climbs nice, descends nice, still amazes me how crisp it handles when it really is quite similar to the Prime. But then again, I have never ridden the Prime in any configuration other than full slack, 150mm, heavy tires, monster truck tough.

    I was looking at the expander kits, one of the things that sold me on the Sunrace is that the big cog is riveted right to the carrier, don't know that it really metters but it did make sense to me from a wear and tear aspect. I also took the 67gr hit and got the steel 42 as opposed to alum, again it made sense.
    Low and slack.

  164. #164
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    You've got the production Prime, I've got the pre-production so there's even more weight difference and much bigger/burlier tubing on mine, difference between the Phantom and the Prime is Monster Truck vs WRC, absolute night and day what the Prime will roll over/through without even blinking compared to the Phantom where you need to pay attention.

    Just weighed my Phantom again and with the new upgrades she sits right at 33lbs now, so lost 8oz Weighed the Paradox which I just converted to 1x10 with B+ wheels/tyres to compare and it sits square at 29lbs, so no light weight either.

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Currently have my Pike shortened to 120mm, chips in the center, climbs nice, descends nice, still amazes me how crisp it handles when it really is quite similar to the Prime. But then again, I have never ridden the Prime in any configuration other than full slack, 150mm, heavy tires, monster truck tough.

    I was looking at the expander kits, one of the things that sold me on the Sunrace is that the big cog is riveted right to the carrier, don't know that it really metters but it did make sense to me from a wear and tear aspect. I also took the 67gr hit and got the steel 42 as opposed to alum, again it made sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post

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    Nice use of the those RaceFace single rings! I’ve used them in the past when they first came out to build a cheap man’s 2x9 set-up. They actually shifted well, and of course... held the chain great (plus, colors!) Also a fan of that post. Fallline is the best dropper I’ve used; bar none. If I had the money, I’d go grab the 175mm model that just dropped. Again... another great example of how versatile this frame really is.

  166. #166
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    I've kept the Phantom on the back burner riding a hardtail a lot over the last couple months. I've taken it out a couple times in the past week and am wondering why I haven't been riding it. I was going to take the hardtail on a Pisgah trip in about a week and now I'm torn between the two and am now leaning heavily towards the Phantom.

    Funnily enough coming back to the Phantom from the hardtail it feels cramped, but as soon as I hit the trail the fit doesn't seem odd at all.

  167. #167
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    Hello all. I've just picked up a 2nd hand 2015 Phantom frame. I'm still trying to decide what forks to run. I'd like to stick with 120mm travel, just to keep it sufficiently different to my Enduro.
    Has anyone had any experience with the Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I like the idea of being able to run 29+ tyres occasionally.
    What A2C length is the Phantom designed around? Would the 550mm of the Magnum slacken it out too much?
    My other options are a Yari, or an X-Fusion Trace.
    Thanks, in advance, for your help.

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaker74 View Post
    Hello all. I've just picked up a 2nd hand 2015 Phantom frame. I'm still trying to decide what forks to run. I'd like to stick with 120mm travel, just to keep it sufficiently different to my Enduro.
    Has anyone had any experience with the Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I like the idea of being able to run 29+ tyres occasionally.
    What A2C length is the Phantom designed around? Would the 550mm of the Magnum slacken it out too much?
    My other options are a Yari, or an X-Fusion Trace.
    Thanks, in advance, for your help.
    I've got a Magnum Pro on my Stache. Doesn't over- or underwhelm me. Just does its job. It's definitely been durable. Pretty limited on 29+ forks right now. I've heard good things about the Trace, but it's not 29+.....

    As far as the axle to crown, I'm not sure I'd worry about it (probably gonna get torched for saying that). I say pick a fork you like, then figure out the geometry that you like by tinkering with the dropouts....

    Just my 2 cents....

  169. #169
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    Well if you've got the money to get a few forks instead of just one fork, then I'd vote for Trace and Magnum for 29+, if however you can only afford one fork, then I'd definitely go for the TRACE, especially the RC HLR version

    As to what A2C, for me, the Phantom feels absolutely perfectly balanced running my Trace @ 120mm with an A2C of 530mm IIRC. I go and run it with one of my F34s set ofr more travel and it seems to feel very good, until I hop back on it with the 120mm Trace, then it just feels amazing, but it also depends on what you ride for, if you want and all around bike then 120mm if you are more DH biased then maybe more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Beaker74 View Post
    Hello all. I've just picked up a 2nd hand 2015 Phantom frame. I'm still trying to decide what forks to run. I'd like to stick with 120mm travel, just to keep it sufficiently different to my Enduro.
    Has anyone had any experience with the Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I like the idea of being able to run 29+ tyres occasionally.
    What A2C length is the Phantom designed around? Would the 550mm of the Magnum slacken it out too much?
    My other options are a Yari, or an X-Fusion Trace.
    Thanks, in advance, for your help.
    One thing I didn't like about my Phantom was the decals and gloss clear, so finally got around to stripping it to RAW and got the Trace back on, now perfect and matches my Prime and Paradox The build now sits at 32.5lbs after stripping the clear and removing the cable stops for the FD since I don't need them anymore and no chainstay wrap, going to see if the Clutch RD stops chainslap.

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4760.jpg

    Phantom build specs thread-dscn4746.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  170. #170
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    I can see LyNx, in the wee dim hours of dawn, grabbing the perfect bike for the ride ahead, but at the gnarliest section (and once it's full day light) realizing that you grabbed the "wrong" bike. Lol..

    But have no fear, all will shred with delight anything that lays before it.
    Last edited by Optimus; 07-14-2016 at 07:13 PM.
    Low and slack.

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  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    One thing I didn't like about my Phantom was the decals and gloss clear, so finally got around to stripping it to RAW and got the Trace back on, now perfect and matches my Prime and Paradox The build now sits at 32.5lbs after stripping the clear and removing the cable stops for the FD since I don't need them anymore and no chainstay wrap, going to see if the Clutch RD stops chainslap.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks killer! How long did it take you to strip the gloss? I stripped an old IH 6Point a long time ago and it was tedious but I loved the results. Something about RAW just tickles me the right way. I might have to follow your lead here...

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    I kinda dig your philosophy. Fork the hell out it but not uncomfortably slack. DEFINITELY keep us all informed of what you're doing to that thing and what you think.

    This frame is so versatile, but I can't find a thread anywhere that people are changing it up and giving opinions......

    Definitely agree about the versatility. I dropped my fork from 150mm to 130mm and using the slack chip setting it feels near perfect for my trails here in NC.
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 08-04-2016 at 07:28 PM.

  174. #174
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    Did not take long at all, took longer to strip the parts off it and press out the bearings. I used aircraft paint stripper, it's really caustic, so be careful, if you get it on your skin it burn like a mofo.
    The frame is prepped quite well below the clear for their raw finish, you just need to get into small areas with 240 or so sand paper where the machines don't easily get and I like to go all over the entire frame with a wet sand to increase the mattness of the finish.

    While I had all the bearings out, I took the time to remove all the seals and clean them out thoroughly in some gas and re-pack with fresh grease, felt absolutely wonderful on the first quick 10 mile ride I did.
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    That looks killer! How long did it take you to strip the gloss? I stripped an old IH 6Point a long time ago and it was tedious but I loved the results. Something about RAW just tickles me the right way. I might have to follow your lead here...
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  175. #175
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    Phantom build specs thread-bike.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Did not take long at all, took longer to strip the parts off it and press out the bearings. I used aircraft paint stripper, it's really caustic, so be careful, if you get it on your skin it burn like a mofo.
    The frame is prepped quite well below the clear for their raw finish, you just need to get into small areas with 240 or so sand paper where the machines don't easily get and I like to go all over the entire frame with a wet sand to increase the mattness of the finish.

    While I had all the bearings out, I took the time to remove all the seals and clean them out thoroughly in some gas and re-pack with fresh grease, felt absolutely wonderful on the first quick 10 mile ride I did.
    That brings back memories...I followed this same procedure when I stripped my 6 Point years ago. I somehow blocked out the part about sanding with green teflon pads to get the smooth finish. I ended up hand polishing my frame with some Mothers. It came out better than anything I could buy. Wow those wheels look tiny!

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaker74 View Post
    Hello all. I've just picked up a 2nd hand 2015 Phantom frame. I'm still trying to decide what forks to run. I'd like to stick with 120mm travel, just to keep it sufficiently different to my Enduro.
    Has anyone had any experience with the Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I like the idea of being able to run 29+ tyres occasionally.
    What A2C length is the Phantom designed around? Would the 550mm of the Magnum slacken it out too much?
    My other options are a Yari, or an X-Fusion Trace.
    Thanks, in advance, for your help.
    Pretty sure MRP Stage fits 29+. Its either on this forum or one of the Stage threads.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenblur View Post
    Pretty sure MRP Stage fits 29+. Its either on this forum or one of the Stage threads.
    Yep 29+ works on MRP Stage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/646650...4133/lightbox/
    The fork can easily be adjusted from 120mm to 150mm with spacer that come with the fork. Smoothest fork I've owned and maintenance free. The 'ramp control' is super useful especially if you're going to be riding it at 120mm.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Yep 29+ works on MRP Stage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/646650...4133/lightbox/
    The fork can easily be adjusted from 120mm to 150mm with spacer that come with the fork. Smoothest fork I've owned and maintenance free. The 'ramp control' is super useful especially if you're going to be riding it at 120mm.
    Plus 1 on the Stage. Absolutely awesome, and it plays great with the Phantom. And I had no idea 29+ would fit!

  179. #179
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    Think my inlines on the way out. Chirps after a couple miles of riding and the suspension seems very active when pedaling, not sure if thats normal.

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Think my inlines on the way out. Chirps after a couple miles of riding and the suspension seems very active when pedaling, not sure if thats normal.
    The Inline is a great shock but painfully unreliable. Once mine craps the bed I'm going with an Avy tuned RP3. Seems more economical in the long run. I already bought a used RP3 b/c I know it's just a matter of time before the second inline I have starts chirping. I think Cane Crap charges $160 for rebuild with a 90 day warranty.

  181. #181
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    Rode it yesterday without issue and no chirping. Came really close to ordering a new Fox Float DPS, going to NC next week and don't want to be SOL.

  182. #182
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    Contemplated trading it in on a lesser bike, took a short spin on lesser bike and thought wtf am I thinking.

    Moar pics.



  183. #183
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    Yeah, unless you only have absolutely smooth gravel, the Phantom is the most versatile bike I've owned, barely looses anything to the HT on the smooth stuff and once the chatter starts, no comparison, and then still very capable when it gets really chunky and big.

    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Contemplated trading it in on a lesser bike, took a short spin on lesser bike and thought wtf am I thinking.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  184. #184
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    Keith or anybody who knows what size shock for Phantom in the new metric sizing and how it can affect travel and geo.
    Thanks

  185. #185
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    I've got a question for all you guys..... I've got my Phantom set up with a Stage fork set at 130 and was running flip chips in the middle setting. Got a wild hair to try the slack setting, and it made this bike even better when I didn't think it could GET any better. Rides smoother, manuals fantastically, more playful, and only takes a little more weight shift forward on some of the same steep technical climbs.

    My question is this. I'm 6'2", ride a large with a 50mm stem, and it actually feels like the bike fits better. I can't find the answer anywhere and in my mind it doesn't make sense. In the slack setting, do you think the effective top tube length or reach might have gotten longer? It really does feel like it.....

  186. #186
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    I would think the opposite is true but the seat angle slackens as well.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    I would think the opposite is true but the seat angle slackens as well.
    That's what I thought. Correct me if I'm wrong, but as you slacken the head angle, the seattube angle slackens the same amount. But I swear, it feels longer.....

  188. #188
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    You sir have just realised that all this "super steep STA for everyone" is a bunch of BS and does not in fact suit all, especially taller riders. The slacker STA has made the bike feel more comfortable because you are probably more suited to being further behind the BB than the steep STA and straight seatpost let you get and then the slacker front makes it more DH capable and yes the Reach is shortened.
    This is why I got the 9point8 dropper with setback option, because a 74* STA just does not work for me (I run my Phantom in the steep setting), much more comfortable on my Paradox's 72* STA with 140mm fork.

    A lot of the people riding these bikes with the steeper STAs that have adjustable geo, normally are running them in the slack setting and claiming that it's great, which of course it is when it's 1 degree slacker than the stated STA - 1 degree is a lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    I've got a question for all you guys..... I've got my Phantom set up with a Stage fork set at 130 and was running flip chips in the middle setting. Got a wild hair to try the slack setting, and it made this bike even better when I didn't think it could GET any better. Rides smoother, manuals fantastically, more playful, and only takes a little more weight shift forward on some of the same steep technical climbs.

    My question is this. I'm 6'2", ride a large with a 50mm stem, and it actually feels like the bike fits better. I can't find the answer anywhere and in my mind it doesn't make sense. In the slack setting, do you think the effective top tube length or reach might have gotten longer? It really does feel like it.....
    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    I would think the opposite is true but the seat angle slackens as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1Pilot View Post
    That's what I thought. Correct me if I'm wrong, but as you slacken the head angle, the seattube angle slackens the same amount. But I swear, it feels longer.....
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    You sir have just realised that all this "super steep STA for everyone" is a bunch of BS and does not in fact suit all, especially taller riders. The slacker STA has made the bike feel more comfortable because you are probably more suited to being further behind the BB than the steep STA and straight seatpost let you get and then the slacker front makes it more DH capable and yes the Reach is shortened.
    This is why I got the 9point8 dropper with setback option, because a 74* STA just does not work for me (I run my Phantom in the steep setting), much more comfortable on my Paradox's 72* STA with 140mm fork.

    A lot of the people riding these bikes with the steeper STAs that have adjustable geo, normally are running them in the slack setting and claiming that it's great, which of course it is when it's 1 degree slacker than the stated STA - 1 degree is a lot.
    Not lying, bro. It was eye opening!! Always paid attention to reach, head tube angle, effective top tube. Never seat tube angle!!!

  190. #190
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    Did anybody ever try coil shock on a phantom?

  191. #191
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    Have you first tried finding a coil shock in that size? If you had you would know the answer is NO, as there are none available.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim0791 View Post
    Did anybody ever try coil shock on a phantom?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Have you first tried finding a coil shock in that size? If you had you would know the answer is NO, as there are none available.
    I do,i do
    Avalanche Chubie & Woodie exist in 7,25"size(184mm) but stroke is 2,0" (instead of 1,75")
    If stroke can be reduced(spacer ??) in theory it can be used.

  193. #193
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    Ah, after market, almost, can't say they're one I check. Fairly certain the stroke could be limited on those, call Craig and talk to him about it and if he'd recommend going that route for the Phantom - talked to him about doing air shocks for my Phantom and Prime and he was very forthright and upfront with his thoughts. He has the leverage ratios etc for all Banshee frames, so can give honest thoughts, would be very interested to hear his reply if you do contact him, maybe Keith will chime in as well on if the frame would benefit from going coil over a custom tuned air spring from Avalanche.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim0791 View Post
    I do,i do
    Avalanche Chubie & Woodie exist in 7,25"size(184mm) but stroke is 2,0" (instead of 1,75")
    If stroke can be reduced(spacer ??) in theory it can be used.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Ah, after market, almost, can't say they're one I check. Fairly certain the stroke could be limited on those, call Craig and talk to him about it and if he'd recommend going that route for the Phantom - talked to him about doing air shocks for my Phantom and Prime and he was very forthright and upfront with his thoughts. He has the leverage ratios etc for all Banshee frames, so can give honest thoughts, would be very interested to hear his reply if you do contact him, maybe Keith will chime in as well on if the frame would benefit from going coil over a custom tuned air spring from Avalanche.
    For sure I'll drop him mail(calling is a bit difficult due to 12 hrs time diffrrence)
    Today re-check banshee website,they clearly stated- shock type Air/Coil
    Will be back with Craig's reply.

  195. #195
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    So how is everyone getting along with their Phantom?

    Anyone looking at other bikes?

    Looking to pick up a frame to swap parts over from a RIP9. If anyone has any time on both, a quick pros/cons would be awesome.

  196. #196
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    What year RIP9?

    Quote Originally Posted by Stopbreakindown View Post
    So how is everyone getting along with their Phantom?

    Anyone looking at other bikes?

    Looking to pick up a frame to swap parts over from a RIP9. If anyone has any time on both, a quick pros/cons would be awesome.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  197. #197
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    2014 alloy

  198. #198
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    I think you will like the Phantom coming from that bike. I came from a Remedy 29er and really like the switch over. The Phantom is lower and feels a little more slack. At the same time it feels much more flickable and maneuverable through technical terrain. I noticed it doesn't get as hung up on roots and rocks which yields a faster ride. My Remedy was much plusher going downhill but I would get pogo'd and bounced around when the trail got slow and technical. One thing that's interesting is going downhill - you forget it has 105mm of travel until things get super rough. The only negative I can think of is that it wouldn't hurt loose a little weight. The good part is that you don't really feel the weight until you lift the bike up. The other negative is that the Inline shock has a history of being unreliable and needing to be rebuilt much sooner than most shocks. That should't deter you though. To get around this, I purchased a used fox float for $99 as a backup so I don't loose bike time. Not a big deal.

  199. #199
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    Inline is a real unreliable disaster- i have two if them failed one by one. First on Warden second on Riot. Both been replaced with coil shocks.
    Phantom been ordered with monarch XX, which mathcing frame perfectly(bike is setted in a steep mode with fork lowered to 120mm travel,2x11 transmission,for slow,painfull technical uphill trails).
    But for agessive set up i'm planing to discuss with Craig posibility to use Woodie or Chubie.

  200. #200
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    A Chubie would be amazing on the Phantom. How do you like the Monarch XX? You don't see that many coils on a trail bike these days. I wonder if the AVY tuned RP3 would be worth it.

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