Drill a hole for internal seatpost cable?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    powered by bacon
    Reputation: helidave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    440

    Drill a hole for internal seatpost cable?

    Has anyone tried to drill a cable hole for an internally routed seatpost? It doesn't seem like it would be very difficult to do in the same spot as the factory hole on the new bikes, but I also don't want to crack my frame in half.

    I tried emailing Banshee through their website, but it didn't work. Are those guys still active on here? I haven't been on the forum in a long time cause my Rune is so damn perfect.

  2. #2
    Rocks belong
    Reputation: 06HokieMTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,116
    I've done it. works fine. go slow and start small. work your way up. a dremel helps.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  3. #3
    powered by bacon
    Reputation: helidave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    440
    how long have you been riding it like that? any pics?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtrider76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    2,060
    Is it a Rune? The bottom of the seatpost tube is open, you can run the cable out the bottom by the suspension link and under the BB.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  5. #5
    powered by bacon
    Reputation: helidave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    440
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Is it a Rune? The bottom of the seatpost tube is open, you can run the cable out the bottom by the suspension link and under the BB.
    I looked at that, but I'm really not a fan of that routing. I don't want anything on the bottom of the downtube or BB.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,239
    I cannot recommend to customers to drill holes in their frame as it will lead to possible issues and void warranty. When we add an internal cable routing hole, it is cut before heat treatment and reinforced with a proper guide.

    Most frames have a large diameter weld vent hole at the bottom of the seat tube so will indeed have the option of routing the cable under the BB and up through the bottom of the seat tube, which actually is very clean if done right. This is my recommendation to look into if you are on an older frame and want to run an internal dropper.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: targnik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,085
    Sub'd

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    "Mountain biking: the under-rated and drug-free antidepressant"

  8. #8
    powered by bacon
    Reputation: helidave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    440
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Most frames have a large diameter weld vent hole at the bottom of the seat tube so will indeed have the option of routing the cable under the BB and up through the bottom of the seat tube, which actually is very clean if done right. This is my recommendation to look into if you are on an older frame and want to run an internal dropper.
    I can see what you're talking about, but I tried to run a cable through there and it gets pinched between the frame and the lower link.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    21
    I've done the under the bottom bracket routing for my KS LEV stealth dropper on a 2013 Rune and the cable is pinched by the link but not to the point where the post wont work. I've had this working for the last couple years. I wouldn't drill the hole in the seat tube.

  10. #10
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    It's pretty clear that if you drill the hole you are on your own. Might be fine. I've got a 2013 Prime and would like to run an internal dropper, but personally not going to drill the frame.

    Also this is a smaller concern, but without a guide at the frame exit or at least a grommet, the cable may get damaged over time, so I'd want to make sure that was addressed.

    I totally get this because I hate external dropper cables that go up and down with the seat. I did recently get a Hope seatpost collar that has a built in cable-guide.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    436
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    I totally get this because I hate external dropper cables that go up and down with the seat. I did recently get a Hope seatpost collar that has a built in cable-guide.
    Get a KS LEV then.
    I'm about to try the Integra version using the weld vent hole in my 2013 Spitfire.

  12. #12
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
    Get a KS LEV then.
    I'm about to try the Integra version using the weld vent hole in my 2013 Spitfire.
    I need the 3/4" setback and want the 3 fixed drop positions on my Blacklite, so will be sticking with that. But otherwise yes the KS is the way to go for external routed posts.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  13. #13
    Rocks belong
    Reputation: 06HokieMTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,116
    Quote Originally Posted by helidave View Post
    how long have you been riding it like that? any pics?
    About a 14 months. I bought a santa cruz dropper post grommet from a LBS (told them I needed on from a Tallboy, i think). It's oval shaped. I used my calipers to measure the actual length and width of where the grommet contacts the frame.

    Drilled two 1/8" bit holes a couple MM apart (not even 1/8" between them after I drilled, just enough that the drill bit didn't over lap the previous hole). That was the 'height' of the hole. Then took a high speed Dremel and removed the metal between the two holes to make a slightly oval shaped 'slot'.

    Treated the metal with anti corrosive primer (what you use when doing a spot treatment on a rock chip in a car... where the paint was chipped through the paint and you have to treat the bare metal and then paint). The stuff i have has a small touch up paint brush.

    Then I laid on a few coats of automotive touch up paint that closely matched the frame. Let everything dry over night.

    With an alloy frame, you can skip the paint prep and just drill/dremel
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-03-2014, 08:39 PM
  2. Stan's ZTR Arch 26" drill hole and tube question
    By Jem7sk in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-21-2013, 07:10 AM
  3. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-05-2012, 10:59 AM
  4. Drill the cable stops on an EG
    By Boylerules in forum Titus
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-09-2011, 02:14 PM
  5. Drill valve hole
    By BARAvnzla in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-04-2011, 10:40 AM

Members who have read this thread: 10

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.