Broken washers Rune v2 frame- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Broken washers Rune v2 frame

    Hi guys,

    I don't post often here. But I'm a bit frustrated at the moment and would like to know if anyone has the same problem or if it is just me or my frame.

    A while ago I bought a second hand Rune v2 frame in good condition. Was quite happy with it, until I noticed some play in the frame. Apparently some bearings were seized, so I opened them up, regreased them and everything worked again. In the meanwhile I already ordered new bearings. While checking and regreasing, I noticed one of the two washers of the upper link/axles was broken. The material seems quite thin.

    I did a warranty claim, but Banshee suggested contacting the nearest distributor (french one for me). Since I didn't have any other option, I ordered a new upper link kit (bearings, bolts, axles, washers). (60-70)

    Everything arrived yesterday and had the time today to install everything. Took my torque wrench and reinstalled the new washers and bolts. BANG... same problem. I tightened at 5Nm as suggested.

    I don't really want to buy a whole new kit again, since I already bought a whole bearing kit, plus the KS upper link kit.

    Anyone having the same problem? Is it the frame (tolerance)?
    Anyone selling these washers seperatly?

    Thanks in advance



  2. #2
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    Just replace the screws with ones with larger heads, big enough to clamp against the bearing inner race... you don't even need the washers at that point.

    From a different thread:

    The head of the upper link pivot axle screws (non drive side) is too small, at least this was the case on my Rune. It is the same diameter as the opening in the inner bearing race, which effectively makes it into a metal punch. The black washer is made of aluminum and can't hold up against the shearing force of the stainless screw and stainless bearing race.

    The lower pivot screw heads are properly sized, hence no issues there.

    I went to my local hardware store and bought a couple screws with appropriately larger diameter heads (as big as will fit in the black washer, or at least as big as the OD of the inner bearing race) and have had no problems since, axles are properly tightened against frame and do not loosen over time. Axles also no longer spin freely.

    Hopefully this helps/makes sense.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply/help!

    But isn't this a design fault / warranty issue?
    For a frame at almost the same price as the alternatives (Transition etc.), I feel like the bearings shouldn't be exposed like this.

    Someone told me the axles should arrive at the outer end of the inner bearing race. Is that true?

  4. #4
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    The axles should definitely not arrive at the outer end of the inner race, as this would prevent proper loading of the inner race against the frame.

    There is no design fault, the supplied bolts are incorrectly specced. The head of the bolt needs to capture the inner race. One should be able to properly torque the system without the washer, and with a properly sized bolt head this is no problem.

    The washer itself really doesn't do terribly much other than look pretty (minimal shielding from water?), and your bike will work perfectly fine without them if you replace the bolts.

    Whether or not this is a warranty issue is up to you... $3.00 (or your equivalent) for new bolts is probably a whole lot easier for everyone, although it would certainly be nice if we were able to just get new washers from banshee, having to buy a whole upper link kit just to get those washers sucks.

    Also, if you find new bolts whose heads just fit into the washers, you should be able to use the washers you have without issue.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help idontcare!

    Going to replace the bearings anyway... found some washers in a box somewhere. Hope it works, will test it soon.

    But still, it doesn't look nice! And I still hope Banshee will help out with some new original washers. Sent some emails, but they don't reply :-/

  6. #6
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    just went to the hardware store to grab some bolts to replace mine (preventative after reading everyone's rant here.

    So, can someone shine some light on this... I was going to get washers that covers and probably loads both outer and inner race but should I only be getting something that touches in the inner race? Help me try to understand this please. Thanks!
    Current Bikes

    2015 Transition Patrol AL
    2016 YT Tues AL

  7. #7
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    Just get some new bolts with a larger diameter head and use the original washers and you will be fine.

    Loading the outer and inner race will bind the bearing, so definitely don't do that.

  8. #8
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    The problem is, if your original washers are already broken... You're left with an "ugly" solution.

    I'm very disappointed Banshee doesn't respond to my emails. How much does it cost to send 2 aluminium washers?!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wimbeest View Post
    The problem is, if your original washers are already broken... You're left with an "ugly" solution.

    I'm very disappointed Banshee doesn't respond to my emails. How much does it cost to send 2 aluminium washers?!
    Oh, the joys of Chinese manufacturing
    Mrwhlr's stepmom rides a 5 spot

  10. #10
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    Endurobro nailed it....
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  11. #11
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    Did you find a solution to this? I'm currently searching for conical washer (and bolt) for my KS Link upper pivot, the existing (new) on fell out on a ride, and now have no way to ride. I wonder if a search for "conical washers" would turn up something cheaper

  12. #12
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    I used a combination of washers.
    2 washers per axle. 1 that is a little wider than the bolt diameter and covers the bearing halfway. And another one up top (I think sram brake adaptor washers).

    It is ugly. But it works and holds up fine (respecting torque specs and a little bit of blue loctite).

  13. #13
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    I know a friend of mine replaced a broken washer on his 2013 Spitfire with Giant washers, easy to get from any Giant dealer. Very close to the same size.

  14. #14
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    I'm having a similar issue on my Spitfire, except the pivot head washer is snapping off (the part with the writing) rather than the free washer that supports the bolt. I chalked it up to being ham-fisted the first time, but I noticed the head snapped off again after a ride.

    Sounds like the only fix is to drop another $60 on a pivot kit, load up on loctite, and under torque this thing?

    Broken washers Rune v2 frame-banshee_top-link-pivot-bolt.jpg

  15. #15
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    Glad im not the only one with continuous frame play... replace bearings, then axles, then washers, then shock bushings... all to spec. Then do it over again in two months time.

    I swapped everything over to a chromag stylus frame for the rest of the summer...

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