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  1. #1
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Hi everyone!

    I think Iīm the first to have the official and final Banshee Rune v2. Nothing but to say that this is the really first bike I see itīs almost perfect!!! Since the geometries (absolutely awesome) until the suspension system... probably the best Iīve ever try in my life ( my last bike was a Ibis mojo hd and it was a good bike too but... this Rune is outstanding)

    Well.. before the photo session itīs important to point out some data to get a better idea about this kind of bike...

    Frame weight --> Size L ( 3.6 kilos With shock) ( 7.9 lbs)

    The main points of this bike are

    Head Angle (With lyrik 170mm rc2 dh coil) --> 65š
    Seat Angle --> 73,5š
    Bottom Bracket Heigh --> 345mm ( So less than the geo chart even with the lyrik)
    Wheelbase --> 1185mm

    Bike Check (see image)

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-imagen1.jpg

    And the images.. ENJOY THE VIEW GUYS!!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3509.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3510.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3511.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3514.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3515.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3516.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3520.jpg

  2. #2
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    That bike looks fast just sitting there!

  3. #3
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    niiiiice...
    pretty similar build to what mine will look like... only some of my parts are a little cheaper mine will also be raw, large, fox CTD, Flow wheels, Shimano brakes, lyrik coil fork, LG1 single ring,

  4. #4
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    Oh yeah!!

    My first guess for the weight of the frame (L, blue. CTD) was 3,8kg. If yours is 3,6kg, the blue one should be around 3,7. That's good.

  5. #5
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    der klarlack wird jetzt auch nicht soviel weniger wiegen als der farbige lack... man darf gespannt sein

  6. #6
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    Whats the exact name of the chris king headset?!

    want to see more runeīs
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcrs View Post
    That bike looks fast just sitting there!
    Thatīs true... this is a massive enduro.... another level respect to the others enduro... Right now I understand Keith words... " These bikes are designed to be ridden, and ridden hard. "

    He was right....

    Quote Originally Posted by grazertourer View Post
    Oh yeah!!

    My first guess for the weight of the frame (L, blue. CTD) was 3,8kg. If yours is 3,6kg, the blue one should be around 3,7. That's good.
    I think itīs not a weight weenie but itīs acceptable... did you see the bike?? Itīs simply a rock!!

    Quote Originally Posted by JansonJanson View Post
    Whats the exact name of the chris king headset?!

    want to see more runeīs
    The Chris king model you should choose to build on this bike is CHRIS KING INSET-2

    thatīs perfect!

  8. #8
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    Received mine on Monday and it should be finished on Saturday.

  9. #9
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    3,6kg with FLOAT CTD?........ That would mean 3,4 kg only for the frame. This is far more massive than I expected. My Wildcard L-frame is around 3,7kg without shock, so thatīs pretty close for an AM-frame to a freeride frame....seem to be the replacement for the Wildcard in some way....This bike should handle it ALL....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    3,6kg with FLOAT CTD?........ That would mean 3,4 kg only for the frame. This is far more massive than I expected. My Wildcard L-frame is around 3,7kg without shock, so thatīs pretty close for an AM-frame to a freeride frame....seem to be the replacement for the Wildcard in some way....This bike should handle it ALL....
    The shock it's probably around 300g. 200g is the weight of a very small Fox, 6.5''x1.5'' or something like that and this one is much bigger.

  11. #11
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    One more pic wich I specially Like....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-ok.jpg  


  12. #12
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    Adri....very nice

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vrock View Post
    The shock it's probably around 300g. 200g is the weight of a very small Fox, 6.5''x1.5'' or something like that and this one is much bigger.
    Ok, 3.3kg sounds much better...

    It is the same league as an Helius AM oder an Cheetah Mountain Spirit Enduro for example. But it also is 300g more than a Specialized Enduro. This one indeed is a tank...

  14. #14
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    Amazing, boy! A real enduro races winner! Congratulations!

  15. #15
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    Awesome bike!

    It looks so powerful and fast
    And the red grips are cool, don't bother changing them

    Regards
    Ivanius from foromtb

  16. #16
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    Very nice Adriano! You running a 35mm stem on that and how tall are you?

    Thanks.
    Ride On!

  17. #17
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    we want pictures on the mountain!!

  18. #18
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    Impressive! looks really good! It's too much bike for me, but I always like to see this kind of bike! Congratulations, enjoy it!!

  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    Can anyone else not see the pictures??

  21. #21
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    Super D's great set up.
    As I've told you, very impressive bike.

    Congrats man, and enjoy it!
    Licensed to confuse...

  22. #22
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    Beatiful! Do you have a pic of the frame weight?

  23. #23
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    Bike looks amazing!!

    Question, your running a 35mm stem, how tall are you? How does the size feel?

  24. #24
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    Hi guys!!

    Iīm running a 40mm stem right now and Iīm 6,0

    I feel the bike very helpfull at geometries level, and the bike itīs a really LARGE in fact, running a 40mm stem regarding my heigh probable gives you a minimum idea about the size.. itīs perfect.

  25. #25
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    Hi Adi.. very nice bike !

    Can you tell me the length of your Reverb seat post please ?

    Thanks

  26. #26
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    UK Bound?

    Does anybody know if these frames are going to be available in the UK? I just contacted Freeborn (UK distributer) and they are unsure if they will get any, let alone provide a delivery date.
    I have been searching for months and deliberating over many frames and this one seems to pip my shortlist - can anybody tell me if these frames are UK bound?

    AR

  27. #27
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    OP...you find the KS Link suspension better than your previous DW Link on the Mojo? Can you explain the difference in feel and why you like the KS better. How's it climb up ugly terrain?
    2016 Trek Remedy 8 29er
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear View Post
    Does anybody know if these frames are going to be available in the UK? I just contacted Freeborn (UK distributer) and they are unsure if they will get any, let alone provide a delivery date.
    I have been searching for months and deliberating over many frames and this one seems to pip my shortlist - can anybody tell me if these frames are UK bound?

    AR
    Freeborn have not been a banshee distributor for around 6 months now, we have a proper new distributor lined up to start in a couple of months so watch this space...
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  29. #29
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    @AdrianoMTB

    Could you be so kind and measure the standover at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint? Should be 734mm but do not know at which position of the toptube banshee takes the numbers from.

    Thanks, Andy

  30. #30
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    Great!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Freeborn have not been a banshee distributor for around 6 months now, we have a proper new distributor lined up to start in a couple of months so watch this space...
    That is fantastic news - I will be watching this space daily! I take it the colours are ano black, raw and blue for the UK market?

    AR

  31. #31
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    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?
    No firsthand experience but it almost always works out that one brand's bikes all fit the same - ie if you're a medium for one of their bikes, you're a medium for all their bikes. So I'd bet you're right on planning on a large.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear View Post
    That is fantastic news - I will be watching this space daily! I take it the colours are ano black, raw and blue for the UK market?

    AR
    UK market will offer the same products as the rest of the world once we are set up with the new distributor.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    OP...you find the KS Link suspension better than your previous DW Link on the Mojo? Can you explain the difference in feel and why you like the KS better. How's it climb up ugly terrain?
    Well, from my experience the ks link suspensions looks very similar to dwlink but this system has 2 important improvements respect to the Dwlink.

    1. The dw link of the mojo was progressive-regressive in the leverage ratio so it was very easy to get the full travel of the bike even not jumping... the KS system itīs by far more progressive and keeps the medium section of the travel perfectly, so in the overall itīs better the Ks Link due to keep the pedal efficiency ( even improving it a little bit) and itīs more progressive.

    2. About the climbs, itīs important to remain that the ability of a bike to climp up just depend the geometry more than the system, obviously the system itīs fundamental but if i had to choose my priority... it would be the first, the geometry and second the system.

    3. So, once clarified this point. Figure if this bike climps up good that itīs not properly to put the fox ctd on CLIMB mode due the hardness of the propedal ( I running it into position 1) so putting the fox ctd on position TRAIL the bikes climbs up simply perfect... but I want to clarify that itīs not a question of the suspension system... itīs a questión of the Bike geometry + suspensión system, without one of these points, the bike would not be whatīs it righ now.

    4. Another important point itīs that the pedal kickback has been reduced by more than 1 point respect to the ibis, so itīs really good!

    The really god point itīs owing to this great suspension system and the geometry, it will be perfect run a shock without propedal ... like the ccdb air or vivid air or even coil. This ks system does not need any propedal or similar... therefore, build up a coil for example would be PERFECT! ( I chose the fox only because just for the weight loss...)

    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    @AdrianoMTB

    Could you be so kind and measure the standover at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint? Should be 734mm but do not know at which position of the toptube banshee takes the numbers from.

    Thanks, Andy
    Hi Andy

    To be honest Iīve never done this kind of measure, how can I do it?


    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?
    I never have another banshee, this is my first one. but to be more clear, Iīve been running a mojo HD in size L during 2 years and the bikes feels like small to me (Running a kindshock with overdue and a 50mm stem), this banshee is by far, longer in the top tube... to figure out, Iīm running a 40mm stem and a reverb and fits me perfect!!! If youīre 6.0 donīt hesitate and buy a L size... believe me...

    This bike itīs designed to ridden hard and put a 60-70mm stem it would be an error from my perspective... this bike deserves a short stem and a wide bar to get more control and down very very fast!!!!

  35. #35
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    Finished my build today mostly using parts from my old Rune, I like my bikes to look industrial like machines so its not a very fancy build.

    Frame: Banshee Rune medium. Neutral chips, 55.5 degrees.
    Shock: Fox CTD
    Forks: Rock Shox Lyrik Coil
    Wheels: Superstar AM with Switch Evo hubs
    Fr Tyre: Schwalbe Big Betty
    Rr Tyre: Schwalbe Hans Dampf
    Headset: Hope ZS
    Stem: Renthal Duo
    Bars: Renthal Fatbar 780mm
    Grips: ODI Troy Lee Designs
    Brakes: Shimano SLX w/ Icetech rotors
    Drivetrain: Shimano SLX w/ XT front mech
    Bottom Bracket: Hope Stainless
    Chain device: E13 DRS with Hope bashring
    Pedals: Superstar Nanotech ( these pedals refuse to die)
    Seat post: Rock Shox Reverb
    Seat: SDG Bel-air















    I've only had half an hour to play with the bike so I can't give a proper opinion of it but my first impressions are very good. It's super stiff, the suspension is much more plush and active than the old Rune yet it pedals ridiculously well for a 6" travel AM frame. Maybe it's the new bike feeling but it seems much lighter to ride too, no idea on final weight nor do I care, it feels good so that's all that matters.

    Gonna give it a good ride tomorrow so I'll post more then.

  36. #36
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    @AdrianoMTB

    No problem, just measure the height of the bike from the floor up to the toptube.
    But not at the stem or the seattube, but at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint. So this should be at 1/3 of the complete toptube lenght, right where you stand over the bike.
    That is why it is called standover - height...



    Thanks, Andy

  37. #37
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    Im so jelous of you guys, looking at your bikes! They look awesome! Let us know how they ride.

    Keith, any word on sizing, legend L versus Rune L? Thanks!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Im so jelous of you guys, looking at your bikes! They look awesome! Let us know how they ride.

    Keith, any word on sizing, legend L versus Rune L? Thanks!
    Those bikes aren't really comparible, but generally if you ride a large legend you'll want either a large or XL rune V2. You'll have to compare the V2 geometry to a trail bike's geometry that fits you well.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  39. #39
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    Hi.
    Danshee, very nice.
    Have you weighed the frame in size medium?
    Thanks.
    Last edited by rokesoke; 11-03-2012 at 12:23 PM.

  40. #40
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    Large then it is for me! Thanks!

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rokesoke View Post
    Hi.
    Danshee, very nice.
    Have you weighed teh frame in size medium?
    Thanks.
    No, sorry.

  42. #42
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    Congratulatons Adriano!, That bike is awesome.

  43. #43
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    Very nice Danshee! How tall are you and what is your inseam? The reason asking, you are running your V2 just how I would with 780 bars and 50mm stem on medium size, even though I could fit a large as well, but more than likely have run a 35mm stem at the longest for ideal reach. The longer reach of the V2 vs V1 has my trumped with sizing as my large V1 was as big as I would want in a frame for all trail riding ran w/45mm stem.
    Ride On!

  44. #44
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    ...please, asap, you must drop some lines about how feel this cute bike!!

    Pleease!!

    p.s. especially how it's different in technical dh than the mojo HD, and if we can take it for small bike park tour

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Very nice Danshee! How tall are you and what is your inseam? The reason asking, you are running your V2 just how I would with 780 bars and 50mm stem on medium size, even though I could fit a large as well, but more than likely have run a 35mm stem at the longest for ideal reach. The longer reach of the V2 vs V1 has my trumped with sizing as my large V1 was as big as I would want in a frame for all trail riding ran w/45mm stem.
    Hi, I'm 5'10" with a 32" inseam. My immediate reaction on sitting on the bike was that it seemed much longer than the v1.5 and I was a bit worried that it wouldn't be as playful. That worry lasted about 5 minutes into my first ride.

    I've had a couple of hours playing at a local, easy going trail park today, I promised myself I'd go steady and spend the day getting the bike dialled in. Ten minutes in I'd forgotten all about that and I overshot a jump and clipped a tree, snapping my brake lever. That was a good sign. Luckily, I was able to buy a new one and was back riding in an hour. That's one of the things I love about Runes, they push you to ride faster.

    To me, the new Rune feels really natural, what I mean by this is that it's easy to forget about what the bike is doing leaving you to concentrate on riding, once I had everything set how I wanted it I never felt as though the bike was behaving badly or doing anything weird.

    Pumping through berms and rollers feels great and the bike accelerates very nicely, it's a joy to manual too. It's super stiff, it has a confident and solid downhill bike feel to it when you're going down. This is all pretty much standard for all versions of the Rune though, where the V2 has surprised me is in its pedalling efficiency.

    The pedal platform is brilliant. Sprinting downhill, the power transfer feels really direct, pedalling uphill in the seat, I didn't notice any feedback or bobbing, I'm sure there probably is some but I didn't feel it at all. I tried the climb mode on the shock a few times and didn't notice any difference, like AdrianoMTB says, there's no need for pro pedal. On steep sections I did start to feel the front end wandering but I can drop the front a bit by removing a headset spacer.

    Another surprising thing was how planted it felt through rock gardens. Again, I could just forget about what the bike was doing and ride the line I wanted without thinking that the bike felt harsh or skittish.

    So, my initial impressions are great, its all the good bits of the previous Runes but improved in every way. The worst thing about it was waiting for my riding mates to catch up and also everyone wanting to stop and talk about it.

    Edit: holy ****, I didn't realise I'd gushed so much, sorry for the wall of text.

  46. #46
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    @Danshee

    Hi Danshee,

    thanks for the good first review. Me personal I would like to hear a little bit more about the agility of the bike, escpecially in more technical sections or technical uphills. Does it feel long or just right? Is it playful only when in the air or with an good amount of speed or also at slow steep sections?

    Thanks

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    Hi, sorry I can't really comment at the moment because there wasn't really any technical climbs on today's ride. I noticed that I could pop up steps and rocks easily really easily and the bike didn't pitch me forward when the rear rolled over the step/rock. It handled uphill switchbacks with no problems which I didn't really expect. I kind of expected the bike to feel a bit long and thought that it would take a while to adapt but this wasn't the case at all.

  48. #48
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    Fd xt?

    @Danshee: I see that you use your old XT FD? Is ist for 2 or 3 Crank`s? Please sende me the Nummer of the FD (for Example:FD-M770 E-Type)!

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    @AdrianoMTB

    No problem, just measure the height of the bike from the floor up to the toptube.
    But not at the stem or the seattube, but at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint. So this should be at 1/3 of the complete toptube lenght, right where you stand over the bike.
    That is why it is called standover - height...



    Thanks, Andy
    Ok so after measured it.. the result itīs

    800mm

    Quote Originally Posted by arthuar View Post
    ...please, asap, you must drop some lines about how feel this cute bike!!

    Pleease!!

    p.s. especially how it's different in technical dh than the mojo HD, and if we can take it for small bike park tour

    Hi Arthuar!

    Itīs too soon to drop some final results about the bike, Iīve not had enough time to squeeze it to know perfectly how the bike performs but the differents respect to the Mojo HD are very very clear...

    Mojo HD -- "Old" Geometry
    Rune -- "New" Geometry (thatīs the main point.. you canīt imagine how important is it..)

    Mojo Hd -- Very short bike.. too much in fact ( 1134mm wheelbase in size L)
    rUNE -- perfect wheelbase for a enduro bike (up to bikeparks etc...) (1180mm in size L)

    The dwlink is pretty similar to the KS Link but the KS link suspension is little bit more developed in some parts... so in overall.. better the Ks Link and the feelings inside the trail..

    The technical parts depends more on the rider rather than the bike but a with the same rider (ME ) the Rune simply kills the Mojo hd... thatīs it

  51. #51
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    @AdrianoMTB

    Thanks for measuring the standover...800mm...thatīs a lot compared to the banshee tech sheet with 734mm...

    Good to hear that you have lots of fun with your new mountain gear anyway...

  52. #52
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    Great initial impression report of the V2 Danshee! One of the things that I always like about my older Runes is how well they sprinted, pedalled and accelerated in/out of the turns and popped off of jumps.

    BTW, are you 5'10" with no shoes and 32" inseam your pants length, not actual inseam as measure with level in crotch and measurement from floor to top of level? I typically wear 32" pants, but my actual inseam is 35" when measured as above and I am 5'10.5" w/bike shoes on and have been doing much deliberating between a large or medium V2 since I prefer to run shorter stems on all my bikes and 23" Eff. top tube bikes typically are too short for me. So, if the V2 feels much longer than the V1.5 with same ETT, than a medium very well may work for me without feeling too crammed on the climbs up (thumbs up!)

    Thanks again!
    Ride On!

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    Hey jgusta,

    I'm 5' 10" with no shoes and have 33.5" inside leg from floor to crotch. My other Runes have been mediums which had pretty short cockpits, the new one feels noticeably longer to me but I got used to it almost immediately. I'll take more measurements tonight if anyone wants them, right now I'm going to ride to work in the minus degree fog

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    my Rune V2 is already landed, according to the tracking number... so maybe there is a surprise at home waiting after work

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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    my Rune V2 is already landed, according to the tracking number... so maybe there is a surprise at home waiting after work
    Oh yeah!

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    Sweet shot with raw frame and frost! Thanks for taking measurements, sounds like reach on medium V2 is much closer to reach on V1 large, despite 1" differnece in ETT between the two. If reach feels a little on the long side for ya, you can always push the saddle forward some and/or roll the bars back a bit. That's always what I did on my large frames.

    Are you running your V2 with neutral chips for 65.5 HTA and 13.65" BB as pictured?
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Hey jgusta,

    I'm 5' 10" with no shoes and have 33.5" inside leg from floor to crotch. My other Runes have been mediums which had pretty short cockpits, the new one feels noticeably longer to me but I got used to it almost immediately. I'll take more measurements tonight if anyone wants them, right now I'm going to ride to work in the minus degree fog
    Was your inseam measurement taken with shoes or not? Thanks as I have my post already slightly above the max position on current bike with 18" seat tube (375mm Thomson post) while in typical climb position and will have to get a new 410mm post for sure at the very least with medium frame. Never owned a <18" seat tubed bike as I am a bit longer in legs for my height and do fairly long'ish steep climbs on regular basis to get to the fun descents that warrants a little taller seat tube or post extension, but don't like the feeling of bigger bikes while descending as why 9'ers never had appealed to me in the past. Thanks again as I haven't ordered a frame without hoping on it first in sometime now.
    Ride On!

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    Inseam measurement was without shoes and the flip chips are in the 55.5 degree position.

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    The new Rune looks great but I miss seeing the old Rune logo. Super minor complaint.. Looking forward to seeing more builds (& new Spitfires)!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Inseam measurement was without shoes and the flip chips are in the 55.5 degree position.
    Thanks. Would you mind taking the wheelbase (center of axle to axle), standover height (believe it's 6" in front BB from floor to top of top tube), effective top tube (mid head tube to mid post on level horizontal line) and your total bar height (top of bars to floor with bike in most vertical position) if you don't mind and have a chance to do so? Thanks as sometimes the numbers are a bit different than what is listed, epecially with different set ups and I plan to run quite similar components as yours from my current bike with neutral chips, Lyrik fork, 2.3 tires and looks like we are the exact same height/inseam sans shoes.

    Cheers!
    Jon
    Ride On!

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    without words:







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    Awesome. Is it medium size?. Can you weigh the frame?

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    it is a large frame...

    frame plus shock plus standard dropouts weight ~3680gr... 142mm dropouts incl. 12mm axle weight about 80gr more... so, I am very pleased with the weight... total weight with lyrik coil and ztr flow wheels and 1x9, and droppost will be arround 15kg, btw. 33pounds...

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    cracking pics, I look forward to seeing a full build!

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    Yes very nice, my only complaint would be that somehow ugly brown FOX-shock....

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    the brown does not really sting out in reality... so, I will judge it by it's performance... hope it delivers, else I will get myself a vivid air or something like that...

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    @jgusta

    Wheelbase 116cm
    Stand over 76cm
    Bar height 100cm
    ETT 57.5cm

    Nice pics MalcolmX !

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    And add another 300g to the rig?
    As far as I know the vivid is a very good shock, that could replace most coil shocks for DH without many limitations, but for standard AM or trail riding with serious uphill sections, there are better choices....

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    I know, but since I rode my Rue V1 with a Fox RC4 coil shock, weight is not really an issue... it's all about performance (performance is the name of the game - anyone still knows this song by MC Spandex?)

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    by the way, since this was already the case with my V1 rune...
    the seatpost delivered with the frame is useless! why is the question, and the answere is: both seatposts i received with my rune frames are labeled 30,9mm, but in fact, the real diameter is a touch under 30,8mm... you guys at banshee might wana check why this is the case... it is a pity because the seatpost itself is great!! it looks good, has a good clamp, and it is very lightweight. but that does not help... I have now 2 seatposts with 30,8mm at home that i cannot use...

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    The v2 feels pretty light when pedalling but still manages to feel planted through rough stuff. Weight really isn't a concern to me with this frame.

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    Still curious about the performance and feel in technical uphills and slow, steep sections (up and down)...

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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Still curious about the performance and feel in technical uphills and slow, steep sections (up and down)...
    I am also very curious about this aspect of the bikes handling ability.

    It has an extremely slack HA adjustment range. The steepest setting makes to the BB too high so is useless. So basically this bike has to be run with a 65.5 HA.

    I am concerned that in low speed and flat terrain that the front end will get caught up on obstacles rather than ride over them - thus make the bike slow and awkward to keep tracking in a straight line.

    Also how is the weight balance of the bike on steep seated climbing?

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    kalkhoffpink and horsey24, whatīs your Problem?

    Both AdrianoMTB and Danshee mentioned the Runeīs great Geometry, Pedal-efficiency, Acceleration without bobbing and Pedalkickback. That should work on slow steep technical Climbs too?!?

    Since when do slack Headangles get caught up on Obstacles, even slow and technical? How could a Bike feel awkward as your Position over the Bike is so much improved through Geometry, more centered due to the longer Reach? And since when are BB-Heights around 350 mm (in the Runes steepest (!!!) Setting) useless, when around 90 Percent of all Enduro-Bikes have BB-Heights like this?
    Should work on slow steep technical Descends too, donīt you think ...

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    I am not worried at all... 350-355mm is already quite low for a 6" bike (the enduros that were really high had bb-hieght of 37-38cm!!!), I suppose, for trailriding, the lowest position will be really a challenge when it comes to clearing rocks, roots etc. on technical trails, e.g. when crossing a steep slope etc... so I think, banshee really really nailed it with the geometry positions possible... if you think that this is not right for your riding style, you are either used to weired stuff, or it is just not the bike for you...

    and that a slack headangle is a bad thing for technical terrain is the most absurd thing I have ever heared... if that would be the case, why would most vertride-oriented bikers go for the slacket headangle they can get? I have never had any issues going downh technical terrain with my legend, not at all, although it has a long wheelbase, very slack headangle and limited manoverability due to dual crown, but the slack headangle and stiffness make up for that in terms of control...

    climbing - well, it is a 6" enduro, so I dont expect it to climb like a goat on steroids... but still, the seatangle is very steep and the kinematics should provide a good, bob-free platform, which is what the users here already say, so I cant see any problems ahead in this area... slow, steep climbing is for lycra guys, and I honestly don't mind how a bike performs in that area... probably not great due to the long wheelbase...

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    kalkhoffpink and horsey24, whatīs your Problem?
    I don't think either of us stated a problem. We are simply are asking a question and seeking a response from someone who has actually ridden the bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    and that a slack headangle is a bad thing for technical terrain is the most absurd thing I have ever heared... if that would be the case, why would most vertride-oriented bikers go for the slacket headangle they can get?
    both the question from myself and the other guy were specific to 'flat' technical terrain and 'low speed' when a slack head angle can get caught up on square edge hits rather then roll up and over them.

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    I've only had two rides on the V2 and I can only comment on what I've experienced so far, which isn't much.

    That said, the V2 pedals suprisingly well uphill for such a slack AM bike. I imagine that this has something to do with the seat tube angle but even though the head angle is slack there is still a lot of weight over the front wheel.

    When I drop the seat post down, shift my weight back and get into a downhill attack position the bike feels slack and well planted, when I put my seat post up and sit down then there's enough weight put over the front wheel to easily keep it under control, rolling up over rocks was no problem at all and I never felt as though I was hooking up on anything. I did notice that the front was wandering a little bit on steep uphill sections but I'm running 20mm of spacers between the stem and headset so I'm going to take these out tonight.

    I've got to say that if you're someone who has concerns over 300g or think that the geometry doesn't look good then perhaps the Rune isn't best suited to you.

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    for flat technical trails, I don't think a steeper headangle bike will get caught up less...
    the slacker the headangle, the more the hit comes into the direction of the fork rather than "pushing" the fork backwards...

    but I can give a detailed ride report next week... my V1 rune was sitting at 65,5° with 170mm fork and angleset, and I thought it was perfect for almost any situation I found myself in...

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    Quote Originally Posted by horsey24 View Post
    both the question from myself and the other guy were specific to 'flat' technical terrain and 'low speed' when a slack head angle can get caught up on square edge hits rather then roll up and over them.
    Horsey, I know it wasnīt stated as a "Problem"
    But again, I donīt see any issue there, as Malcolm has quoted: The slacker the Headangle, the more the hit comes into the direction of the Fork rather than "pushing" the Fork backwards. Another thing that could help is slightly lifting up the Front while the Rear will follow. On tight Switchbacks maybe this "Foreward-Geometry" needs a slightly Change in Ridingstyle or Technique, but in my Opinion something to get used to immediately.
    Kalkhoffpink is my Bike-Mate on a large Wildcard, and should think about what or where a Rune gives improvements over the Wildcard - letīs bet he does !
    In my Book there are some: Steeper Seatangle that should support climbing, slacker Headangle that should support descending, more subtle and maybe neutral Suspension, and and and ...

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Hi guys!!

    Iīm running a 40mm stem right now and Iīm 6,0

    I feel the bike very helpfull at geometries level, and the bike itīs a really LARGE in fact, running a 40mm stem regarding my heigh probable gives you a minimum idea about the size.. itīs perfect.
    Hi, could you take one measurement from the nose off the saddle to the middle of the handle bar. I'm wondering about the frame size as I'm always somewhere between the M and L sized frames.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    @jgusta

    Wheelbase 116cm
    Stand over 76cm
    Bar height 100cm
    ETT 57.5cm

    Nice pics MalcolmX !
    Thanks Danshee, your the man, much appreciated.

    ETT is a little shorter than I was hoping/expecting it to be. Everything else looks good to go for me, sizing wise. Would you mind taking a reach measurement as well? (horizontal line from mid-HT to vertical line off BB).

    Thanks again
    Ride On!

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    Edited out. I'll take measurements tonight when I have more time.
    Last edited by Danshee; 11-07-2012 at 02:02 AM.

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    sorry mate, but somhow, I don't believe your meassurements.
    a stack of 56cm is entirely possible with a 160mm fork (did you meassure it with a talas, traveled down to 100mm?) and the reach is not possible either with a wheelbase of 116cm... so whatever you are meassuring, think about it and doo it again, please... posting wrong numbers won't help anyone out there...

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    I'll do it again tonight, admittedly I did it in a rush before work.

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    Sorry for asking, but why all this meassurements when there are Geo-Charts???

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    which, reflecting my meassurements so far, seems to be totally spot-on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Sorry for asking, but why all this meassurements when there are Geo-Charts???
    Cause they vary to some degree base on set-up and he is running pretty much the same/very similar specs as I would on his medium V2. FWIW, my large V1 Rune geo specs listed a WB of 45.1", but was more like 45.7", then over 46" with angleset added. ETT was listed as 24", but more like 23.5" when I measured with level and tape measure three times (mid-head tube to mid post on horizontal line).

    I am a tweener' in sizing and wont be able to check out a medium and large V2 in person, so going by actual static numbers to see which size is most closest to the bike that I am on now that fits pretty well, if not a on the long side. Of course, the amount of travel, sag, tire pressure, suspension leverage rates/kinematics all effect geometry as well.
    Ride On!

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    Hey jgusta,

    well I get your point. Iīm mostly in between M and L, too and always went fine with M. Had the same question again for the coming Spitfire V2, and decided to go with M, because it is longer overall than my medium Wildcard.

    Yes, Geometry may vary depending on Partspec, no doubt.
    As far as I can see the Geometry of the Rune V2 changed mostly in the Seatangle -> steeper, which makes for a longer Reach as the effective Toptube seems similiar to the V1, shorter Chainstays and a slacker Headangle. Together with the longer Reach the Wheelbase is significantly longer. All in all a lot more "Foreward-Geometry" than the Rune V1.

    Another question is: How do Banshee make these measurements? Some take the Toptube as you described it (the HTs real Center), others take the TT on the Topside-Center of the HT to mid post on horizontal line. This could make a difference!

    In my opinion:
    If your large Rune V1 is fine I would go with a large V2. The most noticeable change for you should be the longer Reach, wich means the Bike feels slightly longer when out of the Saddle. Staying seated and pedalling there might not be a big difference, because the Toptubelength is closely the same. Pedalling would change too, as the Legmotion will be more downward instead of foreward-downward - the (in my opinion) greatest Feature these "new-school" Geometries gives you, next to the enhanced Power and Control over the Frontend of the Bike.
    If your large Rune V1 feels more on the long side (not that much appreciated?), than the medium V2 could be the better choice, as the stretched out Reach makes for an overall "longer" Bike, at least when standing out of the Saddle.

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle

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    Ok, here's the measurements that I've just taken.

    Wheelbase (axle to axle) 115.2cm
    Reach 41.5cm
    Stack 58.1cm

    Which pretty much matches the geo chart.

    I'm quite surprised by these measurements because the v2 feels longer to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hey jgusta,

    well I get your point. Iīm mostly in between M and L, too and always went fine with M. Had the same question again for the coming Spitfire V2, and decided to go with M, because it is longer overall than my medium Wildcard.

    Yes, Geometry may vary depending on Partspec, no doubt.
    As far as I can see the Geometry of the Rune V2 changed mostly in the Seatangle -> steeper, which makes for a longer Reach as the effective Toptube seems similiar to the V1, shorter Chainstays and a slacker Headangle. Together with the longer Reach the Wheelbase is significantly longer. All in all a lot more "Foreward-Geometry" than the Rune V1.

    Another question is: How do Banshee make these measurements? Some take the Toptube as you described it (the HTs real Center), others take the TT on the Topside-Center of the HT to mid post on horizontal line. This could make a difference!

    In my opinion:
    If your large Rune V1 is fine I would go with a large V2. The most noticeable change for you should be the longer Reach, wich means the Bike feels slightly longer when out of the Saddle. Staying seated and pedalling there might not be a big difference, because the Toptubelength is closely the same. Pedalling would change too, as the Legmotion will be more downward instead of foreward-downward - the (in my opinion) greatest Feature these "new-school" Geometries gives you, next to the enhanced Power and Control over the Frontend of the Bike.
    If your large Rune V1 feels more on the long side (not that much appreciated?), than the medium V2 could be the better choice, as the stretched out Reach makes for an overall "longer" Bike, at least when standing out of the Saddle.

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle
    Thanks NS, much appreciated. On the large V1 w/angleset, I was running a 45mm stem with bars rolled forward some and saddle rails all the way forward. I am on a medium SB-66 now that mostly reflects a medium V2, with ETT and ST more similar to that of large V2. Once again, 50mm stem w/bars rolled forward a bit and saddle rails maxed forward.
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Thanks NS, much appreciated. On the large V1 w/angleset, I was running a 45mm stem with bars rolled forward some and saddle rails all the way forward. I am on a medium SB-66 now that mostly reflects a medium V2, with ETT and ST more similar to that of large V2. Once again, 50mm stem w/bars rolled forward a bit and saddle rails maxed forward.
    Hi jgusta,

    hmmm, if I understand this right it sounds like a medium Rune V2 should fit well?! On a large V1 or medium SB-66 you both have your saddle rails forward plus bars rolled foreward.

    My guess:
    1.) Sounds to me like both Frames feels slightly on the longer side in ETT, this is why the Saddle is placed foreward - to shorten the ETT?! Or to compensate the slacker Seatangles?! Not shure how to take the Bars ... This could happen on a large Rune V2, too and doesnīt sound spot-on to me.

    2.) With a medium Rune V2 thereīs maybe no need for this any more, because (as far as I know) the new Rune offers a steeper SA than the Yeti and Rune V1 (more foreward position), this could make a change in your way mounting the Bars and Saddle. And due to the slightly shorter ETT your Saddle could be placed right in the middle of the rails to get your "perfect" length in the Toptube.

    Just my opinion/interpretation - I may be wrong, but I hope it helps somehow

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hi jgusta,

    hmmm, if I understand this right it sounds like a medium Rune V2 should fit well?! On a large V1 or medium SB-66 you both have your saddle rails forward plus bars rolled foreward.

    My guess:
    1.) Sounds to me like both Frames feels slightly on the longer side in ETT, this is why the Saddle is placed foreward - to shorten the ETT?! Or to compensate the slacker Seatangles?! Not shure how to take the Bars ... This could happen on a large Rune V2, too and doesnīt sound spot-on to me.

    2.) With a medium Rune V2 thereīs maybe no need for this any more, because (as far as I know) the new Rune offers a steeper SA than the Yeti and Rune V1 (more foreward position), this could make a change in your way mounting the Bars and Saddle. And due to the slightly shorter ETT your Saddle could be placed right in the middle of the rails to get your "perfect" length in the Toptube.

    Just my opinion/interpretation - I may be wrong, but I hope it helps somehow

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle
    Good question and thanks for the suggestions. I push the saddle forward on the rails to max position to shorten the reach some when descending, but mostly due to offset the slacker seat tube angle to aid in climbing and keep the front wheel down more as my SB-66 has a <71 degree STA with <66 deg HTA that I use for "all trail" riding. But yes, other medium bikes I have ridden (Spec. Enduro, Pivot Firebird) with 23" ETT's and <18" ST's typically feel too crammed and short to me, but they also have a shorter reach so just trying to actualize how a bike with much shorter ETT than what I am used to and longer reach works for all trail riding duties? If I had to paint a picture of what the perfect sized "AM" bike would be for me, it would have a 18-18.5" seat tube, 23.5-23.8" ETT, 45.5" WB, <17" CS's, 13.5" BB, 16.5-16.75" reach, 23" stack with at least 6" of travel, wide bars/short stem.
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    I'm quite surprised by these measurements because the v2 feels longer to me.
    Probably cause the V2 medium has about the same reach and wheelbase as a large V1, which would definitely make the bike feel longer as a whole.

    Ok, one last measurement if you don't mind to help ease my indecisive peace of mind . How about mid bars (at mid stem clamp) to tip of saddle on level horizontal line with saddle in your preferred descending position height? Thanks as this is the typical measurement I use when transfering parts over to one bike to another to get about the same feel between the two.
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Probably cause the V2 medium has about the same reach and wheelbase as a large V1, which would definitely make the bike feel longer as a whole.

    Ok, one last measurement if you don't mind to help ease my indecisive peace of mind . How about mid bars (at mid stem clamp) to tip of saddle on level horizontal line with saddle in your preferred descending position height? Thanks as this is the typical measurement I use when transfering parts over to one bike to another to get about the same feel between the two.
    Holy Crap You're anal! Ill have mine in a week or so. If you're nice ill let you sit on it.

    Wait...that didn't come out right.

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    Hahah!

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    Anyone in the US have one yet? I keep checking Trident's web site, and they still show the old frame and no stock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by belljeffw View Post
    Anyone in the US have one yet? I keep checking Trident's web site, and they still show the old frame and no stock.
    A shipment of frames just got off the boat in Canada this week. Mine is among them. Couldn't say how big the shipment is.

    Hopefully my frame will arrive in a week or two.

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    I have a busted knee and couldn't ride if I had the thing. Don't know why I'm so impatient : )

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    Hi, did any of you have purchased using the Banshee update program?

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18 View Post
    Holy Crap You're anal! Ill have mine in a week or so. If you're nice ill let you sit on it.

    Wait...that didn't come out right.
    In the end it's all about the fit and feel of the frame, no matter how good the bike is. I haven't bought a frame without riding it first in well over 6 yrs and Danshee said he is happy to take measurements, so I am hitting him up. That would be sweet to hop on yours once you get it. I am just antsty to get an order in and torn between sizes for the first time on a bike.
    Ride On!

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    Hey JGusta, 45.2cm from mid bars to tip of seat.

    I hope this helps.

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    This whole thread is a good example why desktop mountainbiking can make you go crazy now and then. ...
    There is another bike I have in mind as a rival to the RUNE. It has 20mm more ETT but only 8mm more REACH than the RUNE. How is this possible when both bikes are measured with 160mm forks and do not differ too much in HT length? I cannot believe that -1degree in head angle could make for 12mm in lenght!? And reach has nothing to do with the seat angle - so what the fu**
    In my opinion there MUST be differences in how companys do their measurements. And thatīs one reason why we insist in measuring it all again with the help of the new owners....

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    Reach has nothing to do with seat angle, but ETT does, it sounds like the other bike must have a slacker seat angle if conventional measurement techniques are used. Oh and if using conventional meaurements then head angle has no affect on either reach or ETT as they are both measured from the same point at top dead center of the head tube..
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  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Reach has nothing to do with seat angle, but ETT does, it sounds like the other bike must have a slacker seat angle if conventional measurement techniques are used. Oh and if using conventional meaurements then head angle has no affect on either reach or ETT as they are both measured from the same point at top dead center of the head tube..
    Thanks master you finally did it. I understand now...
    The seat angle differs in 1 degree. It is 73 instead of 74 and measured with my CAD program that is indeed enough for at least +10mm in ETT when based on aprox. 600mm virtual seattube lenght. Bingo! Shi* that was easy...

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    In the end it's all about the fit and feel of the frame, no matter how good the bike is. I haven't bought a frame without riding it first in well over 6 yrs and Danshee said he is happy to take measurements, so I am hitting him up. That would be sweet to hop on yours once you get it. I am just antsty to get an order in and torn between sizes for the first time on a bike.
    I know. Just giving you some ****.

    Personally the large V1 always felt a little short with a 50mm stem. I tried it with a 60 and didn't like it. I think the large V2 is going to be perfect for me. At my measurements I have never been a tweener for bike frames. And I have been riding MTB's since the mid 80's (though in the 80's I was about 4 feet tall). Larges have always worked for me. Looking at the geo for the large V2 it looks as though I am getting a bike that is playful and will feel straight up planted. I like the shorter stays as well (The V1 never manueled that great).

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Hey JGusta, 45.2cm from mid bars to tip of seat.

    I hope this helps.
    Sweet, thanks Danshee!

    Did you measure this with saddle in your lowest or most preferred descending position as this is quite similar to my current bike at 17.75" with my post in most commonly used lowest trail descent position (about 3.75" up from seat clamp, but my seat tube is >1" longer than V2 in same size).

    Thanks again man, you rule. Hope to hear of some new ride reports and pics in future!
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Sweet, thanks Danshee!

    Did you measure this with saddle in your lowest or most preferred descending position as this is quite similar to my current bike at 17.75" with my post in most commonly used lowest trail descent position (about 3.75" up from seat clamp, but my seat tube is >1" longer than V2 in same size).

    Thanks again man, you rule. Hope to hear of some new ride reports and pics in future!
    No worries man, I measured it with the seat in my descending position.

    It's almost the weekend so I'll be out riding for most of it, I'm seriously itching to get out and ride because I've not been able to all week.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    No worries man, I measured it with the seat in my descending position.

    It's almost the weekend so I'll be out riding for most of it, I'm seriously itching to get out and ride because I've not been able to all week.
    Could you measure it also at the highest riding position...?

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    Arrghhh. Would you like my shoe size as well?

    Just messing, I'll do it tonight.

  112. #112
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    i have never been ridn a rune, or a banshee bike.

    but i really like the support of the banshee guys, and the fact that the rune v2 has a xl frame!

    of course, i looked at the geometrie of the rune and it supposes a lot
    i think, get your ass on the bike, and it will tell you to stay or move on

    so i am really looking forward buildn up the bike, but i have 2 wait untill january, when the xl frames are here ...
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tmh View Post
    Could you measure it also at the highest riding position...?
    With the Reverb fully extended it's 49.5cm from tip of saddle to mid bars.

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    no more talk, guys, this is supposed to be a gallery...


    I'm out for playing a bit... (sucks that it is already totally dark right now in Vienna...)

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    Yeah!

    Looks great, are you going to be riding it this weekend? I wanna know what you think.

  116. #116
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    you can bet I will...

    first impressions are.... well... impressive?
    sick ride...

  117. #117
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    Malcolm, What size is the frame?, Have you weighed it?

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    With the Reverb fully extended it's 49.5cm from tip of saddle to mid bars.
    Nice! Medium it is as those are both my ideal reach/saddle to bar length measurement for both climbing and descending with post raised and lowered. Sounds I can finally place my order now without anymore questions, thanks!
    Ride On!

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    it is a large... and with the ctd shock and dropouts, it is arround 3,7kg, depending on wheter it is the standard dropouts, or the 142x12mm dropouts...

  120. #120
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    Thanks, We are still waiting for the weight, size medium

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    By the way, very nice Malcolm. Congrats.

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    it has alll the parts coming off my old rune... the seatpost is just for my workstand... actually i am using a kindshock supernatural telescopic post...

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    ... actually i am using a kindshock supernatural telescopic post...
    Hope it doesn't crap out on ya as my KS Supernatural 150 has many a times now. That post sends me back to a standard post everytime and I only run dropper post if I absolutely have to as terrain dictates. Actually stoked I was able to do an Enduro race the other month without one and still placed 1st in my CAT. Straight up to mostly straight down rides, I don't bother with one. Waste of a product and weight, IMO as my KS is almost actually 1 lb heavier than my standard Thomson.

    Enjoy the ride, looks rad!
    Ride On!

  124. #124
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    yeah i know the issues... mine has been without troubles so far... 150mm version it is as well...

  125. #125
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    Looks awesome MalcomX!

    Where did you guys find the 150mm Levs?

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    Great ride!

    Btw: What is your height?

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Looks awesome MalcomX!

    Where did you guys find the 150mm Levs?
    same tought!

    here in germany no one got them on stock ...
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Nice! Medium it is as those are both my ideal reach/saddle to bar length measurement for both climbing and descending with post raised and lowered. Sounds I can finally place my order now without anymore questions, thanks!
    Hey jgusta, what Iīve already said
    Great that you have found the right Sizing now - thanks to Danshee!

    Malcolm, congrats man! Hope to read some Riding-Impressions here and on the german IBC-news-you-know-where-Forum.

  129. #129
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    when are the ano blacks and the colored Runes gonna start showing up on here?

  130. #130
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    so, I had a very small initial ride today...
    I want to ride again tomorrow to give a whole review...

    first impressions: this thing loves the air! and to play! despite the long wheelbase...

    second impreesion: steep climbing, partly out of saddle, works just great... front not too light, always enough traction, balanced as it should be...

    forgive me that I can't comment too much on cornering, since my back tyre was leaking air, and there where tons of leaves out there... frankly, I could hardly get enough feedback to say something.

    today I tried the middle position, but I will go for the slack setting probably...

    the Fox CTD seems pretty decent, progression is maybe too little... I will experiment with a small plastic ring in the outer air chamber...
    the back end seems to be eating rocks and roots, and it is smooooooth...

  131. #131
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    Hey MalcomX, good to hear your thoughts on it.

    I've been out for a ride today, a trail I know really well which has a lot of variation in it so it's a good place to test stuff out. I took all headset spacers out from between the stem and headset too.

    It handles differently to previous versions, the extra weight over the front wheel felt a bit weird at first but it's really well balanced, it's much better uphill than the old Runes, I didn't have any problems keeping the front down today even on steep sections. Riding up over rocks felt great, the suspension just eats them up. Pedalling uphill sat down, it doesn't feel as though the bike has a 55.5 degree head angle and I didn't notice any pedal kickback at all.

    Slamming the seat down and hanging off the back it feels like a different bike, the back end has got that solid and planted feel of a downhill bike. Carving it through loam and over roots was awesome fun, the rear tracks really well over stuff.

    The weird thing is that I didn't find it as playful as the previous Runes although I think it's a much better bike all round, it feels like it's a bit more serious if that makes sense? It's definitely not a V1 with bearings.

    Going to try it in the slackest setting tomorrow.


  132. #132
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    What you both describe is the main thing I was worried about with the RUNE and the KS-Link. That it is more of a DH bike than of a trail bike. You call it smooth, solid and planted. That makes sense in a way, because with the Spitfire there is a capable trail bike in the lineup. Besides that I would have liked to see a direct and playful suspension coming with the RUNE too. Personally I like more direct feedback from the ground rather than just rolling over everything.
    Maybe MalcomX will give some more feedback after his next ride.

  133. #133
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    That's interesting Danshee. I figured with the short Chainstays the v2 would be super easy to pop the front end. I thought the v1 was a rather neutral bike for playfulness, especially compared to a wildcard.

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    What you both describe is the main thing I was worried about with the RUNE and the KS-Link. That it is more of a DH bike than of a trail bike. You call it smooth, solid and planted. That makes sense in a way, because with the Spitfire there is a capable trail bike in the lineup. Besides that I would have liked to see a direct and playful suspension coming with the RUNE too. Personally I like more direct feedback from the ground rather than just rolling over everything.
    Maybe MalcomX will give some more feedback after his next ride.
    I probably didn't explain myself very well, it's not more of a downhill bike.

    I think it's a much better AM/enduro bike than the v1 because its pedals so much better. When I rode through big downhill rock gardens, the rear end tracked really well over the rocks, throwing it into loamy corners the back felt very laterally stiff and this reminded me of how downhill bikes ride. That was with the CTD shock set to D too.

  135. #135
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    after 3 weeks of use.... I think I can write a properly review of this bike.... but in balance... this bike is awesome and intended to a very aggressive use.... If the idea is to do enduro light or trail... go to the spitfire... this bike is fast... very fast...

    Preparing review for tomorrow..

  136. #136
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    I had the same impression... it seems to be even "more" bike than the V1... actually my hometrails can hardly throw anything against it (but, luckily I have my 29" AM-hardtail for that stuff) and I think it will excell in rough, technical alpine riding, which is what I bought it for...

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    after 3 weeks of use.... I think I can write a properly review of this bike.... but in balance... this bike is awesome and intended to a very aggressive use.... If the idea is to do enduro light or trail... go to the spitfire... this bike is fast... very fast...

    Preparing review for tomorrow..
    Just asking myself why a fast bike should be bad for Enduro light or trail riding????

  138. #138
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    Just got back from a day riding easy lines at some freeride and downhill trails and the bike felt brilliant, it pops off jumps and feels balanced and predictable in the air. I had it in the 55 degree setting today and loved it. I love how it handles through rocks.

    I agree with the above, it'll be awesome for alpine riding. I did the Mountain of Hell in July and I wish I had the V2 then, it'd be perfect.

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Just asking myself why a fast bike should be bad for Enduro light or trail riding????
    it is not bad for that kind of riding... just that you will get bored with that kind of trails quickly on the rune V2...

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Just asking myself why a fast bike should be bad for Enduro light or trail riding????
    From my point of view, it not consist on if itīs bad or not for Trail riding... cause for a trail riding every bike is good... even with a hardtail.. but the question here is different...

    Due to the geometry, wheelbase, reach and stack of the bike, trail riding at medium speed feels really boring, why?

    This bike handles really good at high speed and in really steep areas, in some part this bike requires be fast to take advantage of the features of it... I know itīs hard to explain in words but in my case I can explain it with my last bike before have the rune..

    The ibis mojo hd --> I did last year the megavalanche I qualified into the 300 hundred faster riders for the final. With the ibis, I enjoyed the routes and the normal trails of my local area but when I come into racing mode the bikes was very nervous and to be honest I feel the bike was not able to confront hard races like the megavalanche or enduro races in overall, I had to be in very good shape to achieve my objetive so.. in gross words.. the ibis demads 80% physical form and 20% bike.

    With this Rune, Itīs more or less the opposite..

    From my perspective... the conclusion will be...

    "The worst will be the trail.. the easy the bike will do it"

    Exactly the opposite as the other bikes feels... thatīs why I wrote the other phrase... to use in your local trails without going bikeparks or without jumping or without races or really difficult sections... the rune itīs an underutilized bike...

    Keith was right

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    These bikes are designed to be ridden, and ridden hard.

  141. #141
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    Hey guys, I'm really enjoying reading about your Runes, and think it might be my next bike. However can anyone comment on the Runes ability (if built correctly) as a freeride bike. I'm currently riding a Santacruz Driver 8 built with with totems, Vivid air, Havoc wheelset, hammerschimdt ect... to the tune of 37lbs. I looking for a bike that can be pedalled up but still can hold its own on trails with drops, gaps, ladders and steeps. Can this bike been ridden on Whislter style trails along with all mountain enduro trails. Not sure if anyone is familiar with the trails in the Fraser Valley of BC, (Woodlot, Ledgeview, Sumas, Vedder) this is what I have to contend with. Any thoughts, comments would be great.

  142. #142
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    Like this?


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    @AssPav

    Very nice and good introduction to my next question


    @AdrianoMTB, Danshee, MalcomX

    Here are two videos, that show quite good what I mean with technical stuff.
    I would love to know how the RUNE deals with this kind of riding, because besides trail surfing it is a good part of daily life in the German forests. Of course there are not so many rocks everywhere but trails are often blocked and technical (slow) to ride, so it is comparable to the videos.

    Forget the brand of the bike, just look at the track and only at the positions I mentioned, the rest is too special…


    First 30 Seconds




    Minute 1:00 to 2:30


  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBL123 View Post
    Hey guys, I'm really enjoying reading about your Runes, and think it might be my next bike. However can anyone comment on the Runes ability (if built correctly) as a freeride bike. I'm currently riding a Santacruz Driver 8 built with with totems, Vivid air, Havoc wheelset, hammerschimdt ect... to the tune of 37lbs. I looking for a bike that can be pedalled up but still can hold its own on trails with drops, gaps, ladders and steeps. Can this bike been ridden on Whislter style trails along with all mountain enduro trails. Not sure if anyone is familiar with the trails in the Fraser Valley of BC, (Woodlot, Ledgeview, Sumas, Vedder) this is what I have to contend with. Any thoughts, comments would be great.
    I donīt know your local trails but probably the Rune will enjoy that areas... I donīt recommend you the hammer smith for this bike... about your built... itīs ok to do freeride. I think whistler itīs a perfect location for the Rune... no doubt

    Quote Originally Posted by AssPav View Post
    Like this?
    Exactly like that... probably with another different enduro bike this section would be almost impossible.. with the Rune itīs partly easy,,, (The biker here itīs important )

    pd: Thanks for the photo... directly to my desktop

    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    @AssPav

    Very nice and good introduction to my next question


    @AdrianoMTB, Danshee, MalcomX

    Here are two videos, that show quite good what I mean with technical stuff.
    I would love to know how the RUNE deals with this kind of riding, because besides trail surfing it is a good part of daily life in the German forests. Of course there are not so many rocks everywhere but trails are often blocked and technical (slow) to ride, so it is comparable to the videos.

    Forget the brand of the bike, just look at the track and only at the positions I mentioned, the rest is too special…


    First 30 Seconds




    Minute 1:00 to 2:30

    I had a Nicolai few years ago... good bike...

    kalkhoffpink this bike moves better in technical sections... for sure... so donīt be afraid of that kind of trails...

    For me the Rune itīs almost perfect... only we have to take into account how to built this bike properly. The key with this bike itīs to be fast in general... obviously in very steep and technical sections itīs hard to be fast but I want to transfer this message clearly... the fast you go, the better you will approach technical areas...

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    For me the Rune itīs almost perfect... only we have to take into account how to built this bike properly. The key with this bike itīs to be fast in general... obviously in very steep and technical sections itīs hard to be fast but I want to transfer this message clearly... the fast you go, the better you will approach technical areas...
    I am a bit confused by this response... Are you saying that is NOT good in steep technical sections?

    I am very interested in this bike, but this is my biggest concern. I ride the French/Swiss alps. Trails and steep and technical and riding them fast isn't always an option!

    A lot of alpine trails have extremely rocky, steep & tight switchbacks. It is a challenge just to ride these sections clean at low speed and keep upright. Sections like this rarely have a fast run out, or banked up corner exits. You have to ride and control the bike the whole time under constant braking control.

    You seem to be suggesting that the bike can only handle fast technical riding???

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by horsey24 View Post
    I am a bit confused by this response... Are you saying that is NOT good in steep technical sections?

    I am very interested in this bike, but this is my biggest concern. I ride the French/Swiss alps. Trails and steep and technical and riding them fast isn't always an option!

    A lot of alpine trails have extremely rocky, steep & tight switchbacks. It is a challenge just to ride these sections clean at low speed and keep upright. Sections like this rarely have a fast run out, or banked up corner exits. You have to ride and control the bike the whole time under constant braking control.

    You seem to be suggesting that the bike can only handle fast technical riding???
    Not

    Basically because due to the geometry of the bike, itīs easy to approach technical sections. So, the capacity of a bike to climb up steep sections depends on the geometry 95% and fortunately the Rune, due to it SA of 74š helps a lot.

    So itīs not a question if the Rune climbs good or not.. any bike with good angles in seat and directions will climb up really good... and the Rune collects the best geometry of the market right now.. and Iīm sure what Iīm saying....

    Iīm suggesting that this bike is fast.. really fast and probably you will approach faster than expected lot of technical sections but itīs not a bike to do trial-bike... simply.

  147. #147
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    @kalkhoffpink: for that kind of trails, I think the rune V2 works brilliant.
    I have a collection of videos, made by a frient, with hometrails that are a lot of fun on the new rune...





    and some, that are obviously quite boring aboard the rune, like these trails:
    (obviously, there a nigh-on no videos of the more boring ones)



  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Not

    Basically because due to the geometry of the bike, itīs easy to approach technical sections. So, the capacity of a bike to climb up steep sections depends on the geometry 95% and fortunately the Rune, due to it SA of 74š helps a lot.

    So itīs not a question if the Rune climbs good or not.. any bike with good angles in seat and directions will climb up really good... and the Rune collects the best geometry of the market right now.. and Iīm sure what Iīm saying....

    Iīm suggesting that this bike is fast.. really fast and probably you will approach faster than expected lot of technical sections but itīs not a bike to do trial-bike... simply.
    sorry mate, i was talking about descending, not climbing.
    and i am not talking about bike park trails where you have clear entry/exit into a technical section so you can just try to pin it faster.
    im referring to natural alpine terrain...

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by horsey24 View Post
    sorry mate, i was talking about descending, not climbing.
    and i am not talking about bike park trails where you have clear entry/exit into a technical section so you can just try to pin it faster.
    im referring to natural alpine terrain...
    Iīm misunderstood it

    If we talk about going descend.... this bike is the best.. no more words... with 65š direction angle and a really wide wheelbase plus a short chainstay.. this bike itīs awesome..

    Run an enduro bike with a dh geometrie in the front itīs a pleasure

  150. #150
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    @MalcomX

    Nice vids, thanks MalcomX. The problem ist, that all these videos feature other bikes than the RUNE v2.
    The Steep Throat is the most interesting, but looks more like work than like fun...
    Would you see the LV 601 with 165mm as an direct rival to the RUNE? It is lighter and the wheelbase is shorter, so maybe better suited for vertriding than the RUNE?

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    i am familiar with the 601, and it is about 300gr lighter than the V2 rune (which is literally nothing) and has jsut about the same wheelbase... so yes, I think they are really comparable (only that I think the Rune will last a lot better regarding denting etc...)
    I don't like to be on videos, but I ride with these guys (and girls) on these trails, and I know the trails very well, so you can trust me that the V2 rune will be loads of fun on them...
    Maybe there will be some Video with me riding my V2 rune riding on a trail that some friends (and I) were building over the last year or so... it is more like a mini-bikepark trail, so that won't help too much either...

  152. #152
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    Good to hear all those good things about the RUNE v2.

    Is there anything about this baby that is NOT perfect..??..

  153. #153
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    It is not made of unobtanium! haha
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  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    It is not made of unobtanium! haha
    Seems you did a fantastic job developping this mountain rig - congrats so far...

    Cannot wait to ride the upcoming Spitfire of my bike mate NoStyle to check out the new KS-Link and than go for the RUNE. Maybe this baby will replace my nearly perfect Wildcard for 2013....

  155. #155
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    In all theory and out of imagination:

    Iīm following the Runeand itīs Picture-Threads here for some Years now, and the Rune V1 and V1.5 are build up so differently - from All-Terrain to Local-DH-Racing and everything in between. Simply shows how versatile and strong the previous Runes are. The Rune V2 has advanced and evolved in almost every Aspect and is now that kind of Bike when I started Mountainbiking back in the Days: A modern, light, pedalefficiant Freeridebike, now called "Enduro-Bike". It is again build for overall Trailriding, Enduro-DH-Racing and such ... so if it is good for high alpine rocky and rooty Trails, it should excel on any Bikepark-Trail as well, whether they are gnarly, steep and technical or fast and jumpy. I mean, some "Hometrails" are alot more demanding than some smoothed-out Park-Trails. It might not be a Full-Park-Bike, so JBL123, in my Opinion the V2 should be good for that. You may want to wait for itīs bigger Brother, the KS-Link Scythe, which will fit more to that (imagine 180-200 mm Travel, 65-64 Deg HA), but nobody could quote on how good it will be when it comes to pedalling or climbing, except the Banshee-Dudes. In the Meantime the Rune V2 is one of the most aggressive Enduro-Bikes out there - Competitors will be the Nicolai ION-16 or Carver IBC-Edition, or at least the almighty Specialized Enduro. There are Pictures of Crankworx when the Rune V2 was raced hard by Banshee-Teamriders - should be ok, eh?!?

    To the Aspect of slow, technical Riding, or blowing gnarly and fast, or Descends ā la Trial/Vertride-Style:
    Am I the only one who thinks that it is mostly the Rider, his Skills and Technique - and not the Bike, knowing that some Bikes support a little more, others not that much? Isnīt it all about "getting used to it"? Isnīt the Bike itself somehow overvalued sometimes (which seems pretty much curious while Iīm excited to get my Hands on the Spitty V2 )?

    Geetings
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  156. #156
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    Malcon X, one question please.
    I'm 182cm tall and I'm not decided between the L and the M size.
    How tall are you ?
    How do you feel the L size ?

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    I am 190cm tall with 93cm inseam...

    the bike still does not fell huge, but I am riding it with 40mm stem for now... maybe 50mm later...
    so with 182cm I would go for medium, unless you really want to go for the 30-40mm stems... standover is not an issue, so it is down to personal preference...

  158. #158
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    Thank you ror the answer Malcom.
    Yes, probably i'll stay with the M size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    I am 190cm tall with 93cm inseam...

    the bike still does not fell huge, but I am riding it with 40mm stem for now... maybe 50mm later...
    so with 182cm I would go for medium, unless you really want to go for the 30-40mm stems... standover is not an issue, so it is down to personal preference...
    In fact,

    Iīm 1,86 with 89cm inseam and Iīm running a Large size with 40mm stem.. and I feel pretty comfortable...

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    I am 190cm tall with 93cm inseam...

    the bike still does not fell huge, but I am riding it with 40mm stem for now... maybe 50mm later...
    so with 182cm I would go for medium, unless you really want to go for the 30-40mm stems... standover is not an issue, so it is down to personal preference...
    i will go for the XL frame, i am 1,88cm tall and have a 95cm inseam.

    my old spicy in L, got a 5mm shorter ETT than the rune in L, but the rune got at least 2° steeper SA. the runeīs seattube is 1cm longer then the spicy, and that matters for me a lot.
    i ridin a 180mm crank, and the reverb (ok the 380mm) is on the limit extension. when i lower the reverb, at the lowest point, the saddle is still above the handlebars.

    i had the chance to ride a norco sight in XL and it feld really good, but i thought i would brake it in half, if going the normal speed the local trails
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

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    there are 420 and 435mm seatposts
    I doubt that you will fell comfortable on the XL with 188... Large should be perfekt...
    just my 2pc...

  162. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by JansonJanson View Post
    i will go for the XL frame, i am 1,88cm tall and have a 95cm inseam.

    my old spicy in L, got a 5mm shorter ETT than the rune in L, but the rune got at least 2° steeper SA. the runeīs seattube is 1cm longer then the spicy, and that matters for me a lot.
    i ridin a 180mm crank, and the reverb (ok the 380mm) is on the limit extension. when i lower the reverb, at the lowest point, the saddle is still above the handlebars.

    i had the chance to ride a norco sight in XL and it feld really good, but i thought i would brake it in half, if going the normal speed the local trails
    In your position I would think twice. I am 189cm tall with 90cm inseam.
    I ride a large Wildcard with 617mm ETT and 438mm REACH. This is almost perfect. It is not too long and not too short.
    The RUNE in L ist almost identical. The ETT is 610mm but with steeper SA, so should be the same. The REACH is also very close with 441mm.
    You have to take in mind, that the REACH of the XL is 466mm. That is almost 1cm longer than a large Spezi Enduro, which is also very long. And 120cm wheelbase is a lot too.
    If you ride a 420mm Reverb together with your 180mm crankarms and the 470mm seattube of the L-RUNE you might be fine….(I ride a 450mm Gavity Dropper Classic with the Wildcards 400mm seattube)

  163. #163
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    i will see it

    forgot to mention, i sat on a 2012 Spezi Enduro too, in XL ...

    my plan is, 2 go for a 30/35mm stem and see how it works.

    i would always prefer a bike, a little bit longer, with a shorter stem.
    on my spicy i could really go for a 70mm stem for the long climbs etc., but its so much better with a 50mm once ...

    @malcomx: there are reverbīs with a length of 380mm
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  164. #164
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    risk buying the wrong framesize for 1700€, when you can change the seatpost for ~100€? (sell the old one, buy a longer one)

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    risk buying the wrong framesize for 1700€, when you can change the seatpost for ~100€? (sell the old one, buy a longer one)
    i see that point, but i took my time and compared the geometrie from my spicy and the rune, both in L, and i want to have a larger frame. the only frame which could offer this, and the good feel, i wonīt brake it - has been the rune.

    i really thought about it ... hope so

    btw: i will go for the CCDB Air - so my intention is to go fast, down the hill ... never going to ride some "vertriding". maybe if i feel so, the rune will see some bikeparkdays 2013
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Is there anything about this baby that is NOT perfect..??..
    Well... would be nice if it was made in Canada, although I'd even settle for Scotland.

    Can't think of anything else though, looks a beaut.

  167. #167
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    Just got confirmation from Trident that a batch of new Runes have landed in BC.

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haus Boss View Post
    Just got confirmation from Trident that a batch of new Runes have landed in BC.
    Nice, now we just need it's little brother
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  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Nice, now we just need it's little brother
    Yeah, and that little Bro is hopefully not as "little" as one might think ...

  170. #170
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    Headset help..!

    What is the correct zero stack upper and lower cup for the Rune V2 with tapered fork (Vengeance)?
    Is the SHIS ZS 44/28.6 | ZS 56/40

    Just staring the build! Ta.

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    Hey PTD, Keith from Banshee told me "The V2 frames are 44/56 standard" so I think you have it right.

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    Well... after try with Air.. itīs time for the Coil...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0000.jpg  

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img-20121114-wa0002.jpg  


  173. #173
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    Adriano - can you estimate the length of the hose to the rear brake? I assume you have an L frame - right?

    I just ebayed a set of Hope V2s for my rune and I am kind of worried that the rear hose will be too short.

  174. #174
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    Hoping someone can answer this since I am brain dead when it comes to figure out bike numbers....
    I am looking at picking up a used 2012 Marzocchi RC3 EVO Ti fork. It has the taopered steerer cut to 7 inches. Will this fit on the Rune V2 or is that cut a bit to short?

  175. #175
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    What size Rune?

    It will fit on S and M and will barely fit on L and XL. You will need to use zero stack headset and will have very little place to adjust the height of the cockpit.

    I assume typical zero stack headset ( around 10mm of stack ) and 40mm stack stem.

  176. #176
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    If the price is good, go for it. There are some stems with very small stack height, like the Funn MZX (10mm or so stack height)

  177. #177
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    Size large. So to be safe what size steerer length would you recommend as a minimum when I look at used forks?

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    Adriano - can you estimate the length of the hose to the rear brake? I assume you have an L frame - right?

    I just ebayed a set of Hope V2s for my rune and I am kind of worried that the rear hose will be too short.
    Hi uzurpator

    Right, itīs large size.

    The stimated ength of the hose to the rear itīs 170mm aprox.


  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Well... after try with Air.. itīs time for the Coil...
    Thats badass, definitely a freeride machine now.

  180. #180
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    185mm -190mm would be good to still have some adjustment...
    @ adriano: what do you think about the vivid coil? what tune is it (medium i guess?)
    does it feel more planted on rough, fast sections?

    I was riding a fox rc4 in my last rune, and absolutly loved it... and if you can leave the shockpump at home on long alpine tours, you get back some of the weight added with the coil shock
    Last edited by MalcolmX; 11-15-2012 at 01:34 AM.

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    185mm -190mm would be good to still have some adjustment...
    @ adriano: what do you think about the vivid coil? what tune is it (medium i guess?)
    does it feel more planted on rough, fast sections?

    I was riding a fox rc4 in my last rune, and absolutly loved it... and if you can leave the shockpump at home on long alpine tours, you get back some of the weight added with the coil shock
    @MalcolmX

    To be honest I donīt know how will perform the coil in this bike cause yesterday I built it on the bike... but trying in the ground the bike feels pretty sensitive and regarding the sensations in the ibis hd... (in that case the bike change completely at high speed and corners) probably in this bike will be the definitive weapon...

    The tune of this coil is M/M and I think itīs the right one... very sensite and the bike feels brutal in downhill mode... Iīll try this weekend with a rock garden here in Madrid... letīs see it how it works but I think it will be awesome... this bike itīs outstanding...

    Current weight with the vivid coil + steel spring itīs 14,5 kilos... with the CTD itīs 14kilos. So I think the weight itīs just perfect... furthermore I added an Ibex Onza 2,40 dh in the rear and a High Roller 2 Exoprotection in the front... amazing tires...

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post

    Current weight with the vivid coil + steel spring itīs 14,5 kilos... with the CTD itīs 14kilos. So I think the weight itīs just perfect... furthermore I added an Ibex Onza 2,40 dh in the rear and a High Roller 2 Exoprotection in the front... amazing tires...
    14 kg is almost perfect. You posted a short list of your components on page one. Do you have one with the weights of each component. Somehow I have my doupts that your weight is correct for I do not see very light gear in your list...

  183. #183
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    a part list with weights would be interesting... mine weights just about 15kg with the fox... it has heavier stem and bar and grips (~200gr total) but other parts are similar, some even lighter.

    and, you weighted your frame with 3,6kg, which is really less than it has (mine weights over 3,7 kg with standard dropouts and close to 3,8kg with fox ctd and the 142mm dropouts) so I think you should check your scale... nevertheless, gorgous bike... but I think the total weight you stated is about 700gr off from reality...
    500gr between fox CTD and vivid coil with steel spring is alsoīnot a realistic number...

    not that weights concerns me too much in reality... but it is just fair to give real weights...
    I bet, with vivid coil, steel spring, and the heavier tires (2-ply in the back, exo up front) it is closer to 15,8-16kg than 14,5 kg...

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    14 kg is almost perfect. You posted a short list of your components on page one. Do you have one with the weights of each component. Somehow I have my doupts that your weight is correct for I do not see very light gear in your list...
    in that list I had the 2ply high roller with tube... now the ibex onza dh 2.40 in freeride carcase itīs only 940 grams. and the 2ply + tube was 1.350grams... almost 400 grams save....


    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    a part list with weights would be interesting... mine weights just about 15kg with the fox... it has heavier stem and bar and grips (~200gr total) but other parts are similar, some even lighter.

    and, you weighted your frame with 3,6kg, which is really less than it has (mine weights over 3,7 kg with standard dropouts and close to 3,8kg with fox ctd and the 142mm dropouts) so I think you should check your scale... nevertheless, gorgous bike... but I think the total weight you stated is about 700gr off from reality...
    500gr between fox CTD and vivid coil with steel spring is alsoīnot a realistic number...

    not that weights concerns me too much in reality... but it is just fair to give real weights...
    I bet, with vivid coil, steel spring, and the heavier tires (2-ply in the back, exo up front) it is closer to 15,8-16kg than 14,5 kg...
    vivid coil + coil spring - 900 grams aprox...

    ctd - I donīt know but barelly 250 grams.. itīs really lighter

    Anyway.. I will try to upload a photo of the bike with the weight but sure my scale has a deviation..

    Put a pic of the bike soon to clearify this!

  185. #185
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    forget about hanging scales... I tried several, and they are all totally wrong...
    only accurate way is laying every single part on a kitchen scale.

    I can post my partlist and weights tonight... but if yo are concerned about that, the V2 rune is probably not the right bike... but 15-16kg is probably where usually it ends up with proper tires and coil fork. of couse, with endless monetary ressources, it can probably be brought down to 13kg as well... but that makes little sense to me...

    adriano, I think you did a fantastic job in picking the parts for your rune...

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    forget about hanging scales... I tried several, and they are all totally wrong...
    only accurate way is laying every single part on a kitchen scale.

    I can post my partlist and weights tonight... but if yo are concerned about that, the V2 rune is probably not the right bike... but 15-16kg is probably where usually it ends up with proper tires and coil fork. of couse, with endless monetary ressources, it can probably be brought down to 13kg as well... but that makes little sense to me...

    adriano, I think you did a fantastic job in picking the parts for your rune...
    Yes, kitchen scale would be best.

    13kg? With XX1 and lots of carbon parts? Or just a Spitfire....

  187. #187
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    I imagine it could be possible... lots of carbon and XX1, BOS Deville, formula-**** brakes and you could probably end up in the ballpark of 13kg... I would be tempted to cry if the bike would fall down 2-3 meters on an alpine trail with such parts oboard...

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    I imagine it could be possible... lots of carbon and XX1, BOS Deville, formula-**** brakes and you could probably end up in the ballpark of 13kg... I would be tempted to cry if the bike would fall down 2-3 meters on an alpine trail with such parts oboard...
    Would be more than happy if I could stay a tad under 15kg with my next bike, letīs say 14,8.... Would save me exactely 1kg to my actual build.

  189. #189
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    Hey guys, I found myself a nice 2012 marzocchi 55. RC3 evo Ti with an uncut tapered steerer. Can you guys tell me which Chris king or cane creek head set would work with the rune and a tapered steerer. I would like to start looking online for a used one but I am not sure what to look for.

    Thank you for any input in advance!

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Hey guys, I found myself a nice 2012 marzocchi 55. RC3 evo Ti with an uncut tapered steerer. Can you guys tell me which Chris king or cane creek head set would work with the rune and a tapered steerer. I would like to start looking online for a used one but I am not sure what to look for.

    Thank you for any input in advance!
    The correct SHIS standard for a zero stack headset on the Rune v2 and tapered steerer fork is:

    Upper: ZS 44/28.6
    This means zero stack style cup, 44mm internal head tube diameter, 28.6mm steerer tube diameter (1.1/8" top of steerer diameter)

    Lower ZS 56/40
    This means zero stack style cup, 56 internal head tube diameter, 40mm crown race seat diameter (1.5" bottom of steerer diameter)

    mind bending..

  191. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    The correct SHIS standard for a zero stack headset on the Rune v2 and tapered steerer fork is:

    Upper: ZS 44/28.6
    This means zero stack style cup, 44mm internal head tube diameter, 28.6mm steerer tube diameter (1.1/8" top of steerer diameter)

    Lower ZS 56/40
    This means zero stack style cup, 56 internal head tube diameter, 40mm crown race seat diameter (1.5" bottom of steerer diameter)

    mind bending..
    Thank you.

  192. #192
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    Chris King

    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    Upper: ZS 44/28.6
    Lower ZS 56/40
    Which as far as I can tell in Chris King terms is:
    InSet 2
    (can't post url yet!) //chrisking.com/headsets/hds_inset
    Then there is a link on that page "44-56mm Headtube Fit Guide"
    (can't post url yet!) //chrisking.com/files/upload/headsets/44mm-56mm-Headtube-Fit-Guide.jpg

    chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=59290
    Last edited by ptd; 11-16-2012 at 09:41 AM.

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptd View Post
    The correct SHIS standard for a zero stack headset on the Rune v2 and tapered steerer fork is:

    Upper: ZS 44/28.6
    This means zero stack style cup, 44mm internal head tube diameter, 28.6mm steerer tube diameter (1.1/8" top of steerer diameter)

    Lower ZS 56/40
    This means zero stack style cup, 56 internal head tube diameter, 40mm crown race seat diameter (1.5" bottom of steerer diameter)

    mind bending..
    Beautifully explained

    Head set standards (if you want to call it that) can be so dam confusing, like BB standards and well, every other so called standard with bikes
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  194. #194
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Thank you.
    I can't reply to your PM yet, I don't have enough posts.
    The photo is not the correct headset.
    It shows a crown race diameter of 30mm which is for a straight 1.1/8" steerer tube.
    You need a crown race diameter of 40mm for a tapered steerer tube (1.1/8" to 1.5")

  195. #195
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    Ahh thank you.

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    So am I right in assuming that would actually be this AngleSet ZS44 | EC56 . That is the only one that I can see with the crown diameter being 40. I know though that is not a Zs56 like mentioned above.

    I am just trying to figure out which hs from AngleSet would work.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    So am I right in assuming that would actually be this AngleSet ZS44 | EC56 . That is the only one that I can see with the crown diameter being 40. I know though that is not a Zs56 like mentioned above.

    I am just trying to figure out which hs from AngleSet would work.
    That looks correct is correct if running a tapered fork. Can I ask what you intend to use the angle set for and what for you will be running?
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    That looks correct is correct if running a tapered fork. Can I ask what you intend to use the angle set for and what for you will be running?
    I had just saw a good deal on the angleset, not planning on changing anything but I have no idea what exactly I should be looking for. Pretty much I just need to figure out what headsets would work with a 2012 marzocchi 55 RC3 evo Ti with an uncut tapered steerer.

  199. #199
    Hard funkinī Kraut
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    That looks correct is correct if running a tapered fork. Can I ask what you intend to use the angle set for and what for you will be running?
    I canīt quote for the Rune-Riders, but for the new Spitfire I am planning to mostly run the neutral Chip rear, for a more steeper Seatangle and a slightly higher BB. On Front 1 Deg slacker Headangle. This should work pretty fine for all-Day or all-Terrain-Riding. For Park-Days I plan to go with the slackest Chip. Depending on Fork (not choosen yet) to get closely to the Rune-Geometry, somewhere between 65 and 66 Deg as the steepest. This will slightly lengthen the Wheelbase, too, to around 116 cm and 117 cm with 650Bs. But all will be tested! This is basically to give Tribute to the "Foreward-Geometry" (steep SA) and is just for the case the effective Toptubelength ist slightly to short (10-15 mm).
    Simply finest Finetuning on a Spitfire Framesize M.

    GrazerTourer mentioned in the german IBC to go with a custom-made Works-Components (-1,5 Deg, Zero-Stack) on his Rune, with the steepest Setting (shortest Chainstaylength) and to slack-back the Front again. He is riding in steep high alpine Terrain where a higher BB is necessary and a really slack HA helps in the steep Sections.
    But maybe he likes to explain for himself ...

    Greetings
    NoStyle
    Last edited by NoStyle; 11-16-2012 at 11:03 AM.

  200. #200
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    New question here.

    anybody tried Bos stuffs with Rune v2? I have ordered those (Deville 170mm and VIP R shoch with needle bearing).

    I didnt decided for tires/rims. Probably front ZTR Flow Ex/ rear Dartmoor cheap one. At the moment I will run Mavic Ex 721. For tires, would freeride casing be sufficient as Schwalbe Hampf 900g and use it as UST.

    It will be interesting how much weight it will land on. I dont know yet when I get Rune Medium

    cheers from Sweden!

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