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  1. #1
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    Axle hosed...

    ...many of my friends and myself have cracked both the Banshee axle and the Maxle alternatives. I have always been pretty persnickety about not over-torquing mine, but nevertheless it cracked yesterday as I came down on the rear wheel from a nose wheelie around a turn. Fortunately, I hopped off before any further damage occurred to myself or the bike. I was not far from the trail head when it happened alas my walk of shame was brief. Others I know have not been so lucky.

    Problem solving scientist (doc) that I am, I began to consider solutions. I can certainly toss another maxle on and hope for the best as the recently deceased one held up for nearly two years. Additionally, I sent an email to Paul Components regarding their durability rating for their new thru-axles. They've always made pretty solid, no bs, stuff so maybe. Finally, I reached out to a frame builder I know personally about making me a steel version of the Banshee axle. He thinks it would be pretty simple to do and I am sending him one to copy. A steel axle should be far tougher than an alloy one and I will be the guinea pig for it. If it flies then my friends will start running them and said builder may be inclined to sell them. I will update on the matter forthcoming.


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  2. #2
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    Glad you're ok. Where did it crack? I certain would like to keep an eye out on my bike.


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Glad you're ok. Where did it crack? I certain would like to keep an eye out on my bike.


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    They all crack right about where the threads start on the axle or just before. The biggest precaution you can take is to NOT over-torque it.

    What I am looking into having made will be as simple as possible. Apparently the threading is continuous and goes straight through the drop out. All that would be needed is a steel dowel threading beyond the drop out to engage a nut maybe an airplane one and a blunt stop welded on the other end with a hex cut into it. The builder (he makes custom hub shells and many unique parts) I am sending this to is very detail-oriented so who knows what he'll come up with. We'll see.


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    Interesting HB....I have been hammering on the same (stock) axle for almost two years. And I mean hammering. No problems. Now I'm jinxed. Oh snap.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Interesting HB....I have been hammering on the same (stock) axle for almost two years. And I mean hammering. No problems. Now I'm jinxed. Oh snap.
    Yeah, I don't know. I beat the stew outta mine too and it took nearly two years before it croaked last week. I'd recommend taking a good look at it. Certainly do the basics like keeping the axle well lubed and DO NOT over-torque it. It wouldn't hurt to have a new one just for peace of mind.

    Boom!


    Axle hosed...-axle.jpg

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  6. #6
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    I broke 2 of the banshee ones before I got a old Rockshox maxle that wasn't the light version. Its been in there ever since.

    I'm glad the new frames come with a different axle. I have a Syntace axle in my other bike with the fine thread and got a larger minor diameter cause the threads aren't cut as deep and I think its got a thicker wall diameter. Oh and the best the hex runs wicked deep so it wont strip.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  7. #7
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    Keith was working on a Ti axle a while back, not sure what happened to that, thinking it would hold up a lot better than alu while still keeping the weight down for the weight weenies.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    I broke 2 of the banshee ones before I got a old Rockshox maxle that wasn't the light version. Its been in there ever since.
    I wish they still made these. Maybe someone knows where some back stock might be lurking?

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Keith was working on a Ti axle a while back, not sure what happened to that, thinking it would hold up a lot better than alu while still keeping the weight down for the weight weenies.
    I remember reading about that. I guess they finally said eff it and went with DT's for the 17's.
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  9. #9
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    I found mine as NOS on Ebay but that was awhile back.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  10. #10
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    It looks like someone beat me to it... The Robert Axle. Sweet! I plan on ordering one. I will keep y'all posted.

    Axle hosed...-bolt-axle.jpg

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  11. #11
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    Good find. Look forward to your initial thoughts


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  12. #12
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    Hadley axles are worth a look, top quality and fairly cheap.

    Not sure if they'll fit or not!
    https://www.balleracing.com/hadley-rear-hub-thru-bolts/
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Hadley axles are worth a look, top quality and fairly cheap.

    Not sure if they'll fit or not!
    https://www.balleracing.com/hadley-rear-hub-thru-bolts/
    My cursory measurement across the dropout was 172mm +/- so the 168mm they offer might be a bit small and the don't have a 142 hub spacing.

    I went ahead ordered one of these actually as the threading and spacing appears to be correct. A couple of beefcakes on the Ibis forum that have had the same issues with Maxles breaking said these have been bulletproof. At $24 shipping including, it will be tough to beat if it works.


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by HELLBELLY View Post
    My cursory measurement across the dropout was 172mm +/- so the 168mm they offer might be a bit small and the don't have a 142 hub spacing.

    I went ahead ordered one of these actually as the threading and spacing appears to be correct. A couple of beefcakes on the Ibis forum that have had the same issues with Maxles breaking said these have been bulletproof. At $24 shipping including, it will be tough to beat if it works.


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    Will you let us know if the thread size was correct? Thanks


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Will you let us know if the thread size was correct? Thanks
    The thread pitch is correct. At worst it might be a wee bit too long such that maybe a millimeter or two would extend beyond the side of the dropout. I'll will post pics when it arrives.

    However this one is giving me serious new bike wood.


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  16. #16
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    Here is the Ibis "Hexle" in place...

    Axle hosed...-unnamed.jpg

    Perfect fit.

    Axle hosed...-unnamed-1.jpg

    It's pretty beefy too. The weather is nasty right now, but I will ride before the end of the week.

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    I'd be curious to know what ya'll are sending it off to be smashing axles. And how are your wheels not exploding???

    I've broken damn near everything on a bike but never a rear axle.

    Not criticizing...impressed actually

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenblur View Post
    I'd be curious to know what ya'll are sending it off to be smashing axles. And how are your wheels not exploding???

    I've broken damn near everything on a bike but never a rear axle.

    Not criticizing...impressed actually
    Hmmmmmm...maybe we are all just schwettefatf*cks.

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    In fact, my friends and I are all over 200 lbs (205lb for moi) and ride aggressively. I don't believe it's single events that break them, but just continuous fatigue. I live in the Atlanta metro and my day-to-day rides have plenty of typical east coast gnar with 2-4'+ foots drops throughout and some occasional bigger stuff. I do like to do nose wheelie turns on switchbacks so that added stress probably doesn't help.

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  19. #19
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    I was always under the impression that the rear axle isn't under much load. The load is supposed to be on the hub. Is it possible that the axles are being cranked too tight?

    Oh and does anyone know why Banshee puts another bolt into the axle on the drive side?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I was always under the impression that the rear axle isn't under much load. The load is supposed to be on the hub. Is it possible that the axles are being cranked too tight?
    Over-tightening them can definitely cause them to break more easily. It's very easy to overdo it with a Maxle too.

    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Oh and does anyone know why Banshee puts another bolt into the axle on the drive side?
    No idea. The Ibis Hexle I mentioned above is just a simple screw that stops flush with side of the drop out same as a Maxle.

    Also as previously mentioned, Banshee ditched the Maxle for 2017 and went with a DT axle.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenblur View Post
    I'd be curious to know what ya'll are sending it off to be smashing axles. And how are your wheels not exploding???

    I've broken damn near everything on a bike but never a rear axle.

    Not criticizing...impressed actually

    I was ripping into a berm and clipped a piece of wood on the top. It broken instantly right at the end of the hub flange through the minion diameter of the threads. I have NEVER broke another axle only those stock Banshee ones
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  22. #22
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    Didn't bother to search, but does Shimano still make through axles? I picked one up and it's some heavy as hell steel.

    The aluminum axles should be 7 series, steel of the same wall thickness won't be significantly stronger. However, I've not found any beefy aluminum axles, which would probably be stupidly expensive. My Shimano axle was almost stupidly expensive, so thick AF comes at a cost no matter what it's made of.

    A few additional notes:

    Axles that have bolts at both ends are for dropout frames.

    While the Hadley axle is good quality, you will bend it.

    Some through axles are 6 series. While it's a good 6 series (6061), for the price, they should be 7 series. I'd avoid those if not under 150 lbs.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Didn't bother to search, but does Shimano still make through axles? I picked one up and it's some heavy as hell steel.
    Shimano does still make them, but the thread pitch is incorrect for Banshees.

    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    The aluminum axles should be 7 series, steel of the same wall thickness won't be significantly stronger. However, I've not found any beefy aluminum axles, which would probably be stupidly expensive. My Shimano axle was almost stupidly expensive, so thick AF comes at a cost no matter what it's made of.

    Some through axles are 6 series. While it's a good 6 series (6061), for the price, they should be 7 series. I'd avoid those if not under 150 lbs.
    The aforementioned Robert axle is 7000 series alloy. The Hexle is 6000 series, however it is noticeably beefier than the stock Banshee axle or a Maxle. We'll see.

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by HELLBELLY View Post
    Shimano does still make them, but the thread pitch is incorrect for Banshees.
    Gotta love 'proprietary'.
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Gotta love 'proprietary'.
    Technically Banshee's axle isn't proprietary as it is the SRAM Maxle standard and there are several or more companies making axles that will work. We'll see how things fare with the DT's next year.

    On my replacement axle front, I've taken the bike out on five 2 hour plus rides with the Hexle. It has not loosened nor made a sound. So far, so good.

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  26. #26
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    I grabbed a Hexle as a "backup". Perfect fit on my V2 Spitfire.

  27. #27
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    I broke a Maxle in the same exact spot. I think the problem is that the threads end right on the edge of the interface between the hub and the frame. So all of the load is on the weakest portion of the axle.

  28. #28
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    damnit. I am now on my second thru axle ('13 Prime w/ 150mm rear). First I broke the Banshee Axle. And the most recent was a RS Maxle. Both have broken in the same spot as others show in this thread. Keeping an eye out for alternatives, but for now I've ordered another Maxle. I think both were due to me over tightening, but it's SO easy to do without a second thought.

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