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  1. #101
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    Lysterfield of dreams...
    No Cressy for me this weekend. I missed out and it's all sold out. I bet it's a great weekend. You doing it?

  2. #102
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    Does anyone know if the 2.5 aggresor fits without issue I have 148x12 boost so thinking is it should but wanted to see your opinions. Thanks

  3. #103
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    I would assume it will fit fine. I have a fatty 2.4 bontrager tire on the back with plenty of room. It's fatter than my 2.5 aggressor by a decent margin.

  4. #104
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    I have 2.8 on mine and the fit although it is 27..5

  5. #105
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    The stock e13s that came on mine look fatter than a 2.5 minion. Haven't put them side by side yet, but I wouldn't worry about it.

  6. #106
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    Cool thanks for the quick replies

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Lysterfield of dreams...
    No Cressy for me this weekend. I missed out and it's all sold out. I bet it's a great weekend. You doing it?
    Yeah Im in with my 2 sons.
    My Lyrik RC arrives today so will debut the Prime tomorrow!


    Hey you on rotorburn as the Reverend right?

  8. #108
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    What I would love to see on a new 29er:

    At least a 520mm Seat Tube for us tall people
    Steep Seat Angle
    Slack Head Angle
    Fits at least 2.6 tires
    Not too low of a BB
    Water bottle inside the frame
    A bit longer travel 150 rear 160/170 front
    And super candy apple red with sparkles...or a black with red sparkles in it...hah.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigso View Post
    Does anyone know if the 2.5 aggresor fits without issue I have 148x12 boost so thinking is it should but wanted to see your opinions. Thanks
    Been running this exact rear tire and boost for ~6 months. Mounted to a Flow MK3. No rubs. All good.

  10. #110
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    Got out on my prime tonight for the first time, jenson SLX build, only changes are a 30t ring and mounted up the tires tubeless. Gotta say, a sandy, xcish place was not this bikes jam... The tires are draggy and don't carry speed well... That being said, point this down hill and damn. It starts to really wake up, going to some proper trails tomorrow to let it loose. So far this is exactly what i was looking for, a 29er that can do it all, but still party hard going down. Only complaints, jenson didn't send along valve stems and volume spacers...


    Edit: talked to Jenson, they should have included valve stems. Volume spacers are extra. For the slx build I have you can only get them for the 34, the monarch rc3 plus w.o debonair can't run them.
    Last edited by rclugnut; 09-08-2018 at 01:39 PM.

  11. #111
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    Same, I can let the volume spacers pass but no valves is lame. What did you get in the new bike day box? Surprised no derailleur hanger.
    (More of a seller dig, not bitching at banshee)
    Does Banshee use a bend and bend back design or is the hanger a snap and "save" derailleur type?
    Last edited by Turd; 09-07-2018 at 07:38 AM. Reason: speleraing

  12. #112
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    My Prime

    My fork turned up today so Tadaaaa

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-prime-day1-gorge.jpg

  13. #113
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    How is the coil out back? I have an marzochhi tst r that was great on my pitch. It would fit but idk if the weight over the monarch rc3 is worth it.

    New bike day box was a little disappointing. Got bits from Shimano to shorten brakes (I think, at least hose clamp blocks) remove the shift indicator. Quick links (if the box is true) Some stickers.... Paperwork... Ill go through it tonight properly.

  14. #114
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    I'm looking to replace my '16 Niner RIP 9 with a '17-'18 Prime and have a few questions for you experienced guys:

    I have over 5k miles on my 9er and I have never once touched the shock's lock out lever, because it pedals that good. I routinely ride 14-21 mile ride in the SoCal high desert, and pedal up everything that I ride down....... Just looking for input on how good the Prime pedals on everyday single track.

    Also, now that some of you guys have lots of miles on your frames, have any of you fought annoying creaks or any other weird noises or issues that you traced back to the suspension pivots/bearings?

    Is the only difference between the '17 and '18 the piggy back Rockshox of the '18 vs the Fox non piggy back of the '17 or were there other changes I should know about?

    Thanks!

  15. #115
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    I forgot to hit the lockout going up yesterday, wasn't bad, wasn't great... Firmed it up, was much better. Twas just my first ride, so time will tell but those are my thoughts...

  16. #116
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    I'm running 25% sag and no need for the climb switch. I cannot attest to the Prime as I've only had mine for a week or so, but all of my other Banshees have been great as far as creaks are concerned. When the bike gets a little janky, strip it down and put it back together with grease and a torque wrench. Feels like a brand new frame each and every time.

  17. #117
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    Climbswitch....I use it all the time because I'm a knuckle dragging mouth breather and need all the help I can go in up. But it's not that noticeable truth be told.

    I've been on banshees since 2015 and no creaks that seem Banshee specific. I've done bearings once a year and pull/clean/lube pivot axles twice a year after not doing it my first year and seizing stuff...that sucked. I live and ride in the humid and wet NC mtns.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  18. #118
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    I have a creek thats driving me nuts, its in my head set maybe, but I have had the whole thing removed and greased and it is way better but still there, I have herd cane head spacers cause creeks so I will replace them next and see what happens. The creek only happens on hard impact

    BUt I can not say enough good things about the bike the bike especially the way it climbs WOW I have never had so much joy in riding a mountain bike ever.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Climbswitch....I use it all the time because I'm a knuckle dragging mouth breather and need all the help I can go in up. But it's not that noticeable truth be told.

    I've been on banshees since 2015 and no creaks that seem Banshee specific. I've done bearings once a year and pull/clean/lube pivot axles twice a year after not doing it my first year and seizing stuff...that sucked. I live and ride in the humid and wet NC mtns.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Same here, live and ride in western NC and have been on my prime for just over a year with the bearings replaced once. No creaks in the frame just the creaky CSU on my fork-hopefully soon to be warrantied.

  20. #120
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    I had an original, round tubes, RIP9 and have a pre-production Prime so that's my comparison, along with a few quick pedals about on newer CVA Niners and I would say that the Banshee KS Link out performs the CVA IMHO. Point the Prime down and it's not even a close league compared to a <'15 RIP9, much more confidence inspiring and stable, still very nimble, this is setup with only a 140mm fork.
    Never had any strange creaks from either of my FS Banshee's that were not from a part bolted onto the frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    I'm looking to replace my '16 Niner RIP 9 with a '17-'18 Prime and have a few questions for you experienced guys:

    I have over 5k miles on my 9er and I have never once touched the shock's lock out lever, because it pedals that good. I routinely ride 14-21 mile ride in the SoCal high desert, and pedal up everything that I ride down....... Just looking for input on how good the Prime pedals on everyday single track.

    Also, now that some of you guys have lots of miles on your frames, have any of you fought annoying creaks or any other weird noises or issues that you traced back to the suspension pivots/bearings?

    Is the only difference between the '17 and '18 the piggy back Rockshox of the '18 vs the Fox non piggy back of the '17 or were there other changes I should know about?

    Thanks!
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  21. #121
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    Ride#3 today on mine... Pinched the e13 tires right through, one cut by a knob, the other right about the sidewall. Also dented the e13 rim... Was running 25psi, front and back, was not riding hard by any standard. Pretty disappointed in the tires and rims having failed so easily... This isn't my first rock strike nor my hardestand I have never dented a sidewall.

    I have a high roller2 on there now, was able to get it to seat up, had to use a bit of tube to seal near the dent though. Taking it to a bike park tomorrow to put it through it's paces.

    With respect to what's in the Jenson new bike day box, it's stickers, Shimano bleed block, hose clamp, and some cable/housing ends. Jenson did say they should have included the valve stems so that's good to hear.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by rclugnut View Post
    Ride#3 today on mine... Pinched the e13 tires right through, one cut by a knob, the other right about the sidewall. Also dented the e13 rim... Was running 25psi, front and back, was not riding hard by any standard. Pretty disappointed in the tires and rims having failed so easily... This isn't my first rock strike nor my hardestand I have never dented a sidewall.

    I have a high roller2 on there now, was able to get it to seat up, had to use a bit of tube to seal near the dent though. Taking it to a bike park tomorrow to put it through it's paces.

    With respect to what's in the Jenson new bike day box, it's stickers, Shimano bleed block, hose clamp, and some cable/housing ends. Jenson did say they should have included the valve stems so that's good to hear.
    It's obviously not bike specific and I don't know where you ride (eg is it rocky?) but I was going through tires and about 12mos ago I went to Cush Core and it's been a complete game changer. So sold. Haven't flatted or dented or sliced or nuddin....just ride.....

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  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    It's obviously not bike specific and I don't know where you ride (eg is it rocky?) but I was going through tires and about 12mos ago I went to Cush Core and it's been a complete game changer. So sold. Haven't flatted or dented or sliced or nuddin....just ride.....

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    This was a trail was rocky, hard and sharp area, i'm not sure how bad this exact one was, i didn't inspect it. It wasn't a hard hit like i said, was surprised i hit the rim in the first place, didn't feel nearly hard enough to dent it and cut the tire but what do i know...

    I'm thinking about cush core or similar after this. Part of the reason I'm on a new bike and the appeal of this build was the bigger heavier duty tires. I've been fighting flats on my old clapped out 26er all summer, ghetto tubeless didn't play well with the rim, could burp easily... It was bad. long story short it's on the list for sure...

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Dirt View Post
    Yeah Im in with my 2 sons.
    My Lyrik RC arrives today so will debut the Prime tomorrow!


    Hey you on rotorburn as the Reverend right?
    How did you get on? A mate of mine went and said it was superb but a few too many incidents / Ambulances getting called up. :^(

    And yes, well spotted. That's me on Rotorburn.

    Looking forward to hearing how you felt on the Prime.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Dirt View Post
    My fork turned up today so Tadaaaa

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wicked looking bike! Enjoy!

  26. #126
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    My Prime was new in May. I've ridden it hard and consistently since then and only had a couple of creaks which were down to me on BB tightness and pivots as I checked the entire frame before building it.

    I checked the bearings this weekend and they're all good. Only two needed a clean and repack and I was being very particular. It certainly didn't feel like they needed love but I'd rather check often and be sure.

    I'm running approx 30% sag with an X2 shock and never bother with the climb switch. It just doesn't need it.

    Hope that helps..

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    How did you get on? A mate of mine went and said it was superb but a few too many incidents / Ambulances getting called up. :^(

    And yes, well spotted. That's me on Rotorburn.

    Looking forward to hearing how you felt on the Prime.
    Awesome weekend at the Youies.
    Yeah one of my sons mates went home in an Ambulance on Saturday- turned out to "only" be a broken pelvis at first they were thinking femur too.
    I stuufed my race run but was happy with the weekend and the Bike.
    Still have to play with the suspension more and getting used to getting back on 29er wheels but stoked on the bike.

  28. #128
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    Sorry to hear that. YY I feel always wants payment in blood, flesh or bike. Seldom have I gone without scraping something. Hopefully your young bloke's mate heals up without any issues and quickly.

    The Prime is pretty special. I went off a drop this weekend which I normally have the dropper post all the way down on and for some reason I'd not dropped it so had more weight than normal on the front. The bike was so solid and reliable. Prime + Lyrik + stout wheels for the win.

  29. #129
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    The specs of this bike give BB height rather than BB drop, without specifying what tyres that's running. Does anyone know what the BB drop works out to with the Banshee quoted specs (551ac fork)?

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    I'm looking to replace my '16 Niner RIP 9 with a '17-'18 Prime and have a few questions for you experienced guys:

    I have over 5k miles on my 9er and I have never once touched the shock's lock out lever, because it pedals that good. I routinely ride 14-21 mile ride in the SoCal high desert, and pedal up everything that I ride down....... Just looking for input on how good the Prime pedals on everyday single track.

    Also, now that some of you guys have lots of miles on your frames, have any of you fought annoying creaks or any other weird noises or issues that you traced back to the suspension pivots/bearings?

    Is the only difference between the '17 and '18 the piggy back Rockshox of the '18 vs the Fox non piggy back of the '17 or were there other changes I should know about?

    Thanks!
    I've got a 2013 Production frame, and a 2016 production frame (wanted to have a backup). IMO the Prime is a very efficient pedaling bike. Riding in TX, I absolutely never touch the climb switch. That includes riding on the road to get to the trailhead.

    I did flip the switch when riding in BC. I was gassed, sitting and grinding my granny gear up a steep paved road to get to the trailhead, and the bike started bobbing along with my pedal strokes. Kind of surprised me and I did flip the lever.

    It pedals over chunk quite well, but with the high anti-squat there can be a bit of resistance pedaling over rocks compared to DW link bikes I've ridden. But the DW bikes bob for me on flat trails with an open shock, so I still prefer KS.

  31. #131
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    My experience with my 16 prime regarding climbing is it climbs well, but it depends on how you set it up. I use my climb switch for steep road climbs. It makes a difference. I flip it back open for steep technical climbs. Iíve changed parts over time to match my riding and it changes how the bike rides. I started with a 150mm dvo diamond. Last service I upped it to 160mm. I started with a HV can on my ccdb air, and had to go to standard can with 3 large spacers. The prime is quite adaptable. I will say I have pushed this frame as hard as I can and have not noticed any lateral flex like Iíve felt on other bikes. It still impresses me!

  32. #132
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    whats everyone running sag numbers at?

    I am about 180 geared up and and 25% seems to be very good, but the odd thing is that it takes 255 psi to get that sag with a Rock Shox RC3 solo air.

    Just wondering whear everyone else is

    thanks

  33. #133
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    While talking about sag, I want to once again take the opportunity to point out the difference between sag marked on rockshox shocks, and actual sag in the suspension linkage. Beware that the sag marks on the shock can be misleading.

    For the prime I recommend running 14.0-15.5mm of shock compression at sag which equates to 28-30%. That is what I find works best personally.
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  34. #134
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    thanks you sir

    your bike has brought back passion for riding again that I thought I would never regain what a joy it is to ride.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    thanks you sir

    your bike has brought back passion for riding again that I thought I would never regain what a joy it is to ride.
    That's the best thing I have heard all year! I'm really happy to hear this! Thanks
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  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    thanks you sir

    your bike has brought back passion for riding again that I thought I would never regain what a joy it is to ride.
    I couldn't put it better. It's a spectacular bike especially where it counts: the ride. Every time I see carbon "wunderbikes" with a little lust I just remind myself how well the Prime rides.

  37. #137
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    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-prime-sag.jpg
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  38. #138
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    Dave

    Iím 160lbs (naked) and set sag at about 28% on the shock indicator, Iíll need to check with caliper to know what the real number is. PSI is 150, but the gauge could be off for all I know. O-Ring shows Iím hitting about 90% travel at end of ride. Probably bottom it out if I was ridding park stuff. Bikes new, for the most part has only seen chunky, slower speed backcountry type of terrain so far.

    Coming of a hardtail and I guess, I have a front heavy riding style. I need to stop light stepping around and move back to be more centered and let the rear do more of the work.

    Trash can the E13 rear tire and you can climb for days on this bike. Iím more impressed with the climbing then the down on the Prime, but thatís mostly me needing to adjust-n-trust and let it roll.
    Last edited by Turd; 09-21-2018 at 01:12 PM.
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  39. #139
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    Good info T thanks for the chart also, yes I have been playing with the sag and am amazed at the difference it makes, I had it set way way low with out realizing it.

    I to am amazed at the climbing of this bike, I go out of my way to climb stuff I never wood of before

  40. #140
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    derailleur hanger: I donít have a problem but does anyone have info on if itís more of a bend back material design or a brittle cast part that usually likes to snap if you smash it or try to bend back?

    Thanks
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turd View Post

    Trash can the E13 rear tire and you can climb for days on this bike. Iím more impressed with the climbing then the down on the Prime, but thatís mostly me needing to adjust-n-trust and let it roll.
    Im coming around to saying trashing the whole wheelset that came on the slx Jenson build. Destroyed a rim on small to medium jump. This is after putting two dents in the rim previously. Neither of which I was expecting but there ya go. Took out of the e13 tires in the process.

    Was thinking cush core... May end up relaxing with some fresh hoops...

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turd View Post
    derailleur hanger: I donít have a problem but does anyone have info on if itís more of a bend back material design or a brittle cast part that usually likes to snap if you smash it or try to bend back?

    Thanks
    my bike shop told me mine was bent when it was not shifting proper and they said they bent it back been working great ever since.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    my bike shop told me mine was bent when it was not shifting proper and they said they bent it back been working great ever since.
    Thanks, good to know it can be nudged back if needed. Typically, you can bend back most hangers within reason.
    (Asking because I have a cheaper Direct fatbike with a hanger that is more likely to snap then bend, need to carry an extra)
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  44. #144
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    I've been eyeing the Prime since it was born. I think I got my Riot sold so I grabbed one of the two remaining raw XL frames at Jenson. Smoking deal and I'm anxious to get it built and rolling. This bike is technically for my son but he is growing like a weed and likely to overtake my height in a year or two so I get to buy a bike for him and ride it too! Pumped...

  45. #145
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    Holy crap. This frame is solid. I can't get the rear triangle to flex by hand one bit no matter where I grab and push. On the Riot I could grab the seat tube and push the shock mount on the rear triangle side to side with one thumb. The Prime is a man's machine.

    Cue Jeopardy theme song while waiting on parts and spare time...

  46. #146
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    The word you're looking for in TANK They're tough and stiff and oh so much fun, wait till you actually get to get in a ride on it

    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    Holy crap. This frame is solid. I can't get the rear triangle to flex by hand one bit no matter where I grab and push. On the Riot I could grab the seat tube and push the shock mount on the rear triangle side to side with one thumb. The Prime is a man's machine.

    Cue Jeopardy theme song while waiting on parts and spare time...
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  47. #147
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    Yep it's a tank, but it climbs so very well. Even with the fork at 160mm. My love affair with the Prime continues.

    Get excited when it's all done and built up. Good times ahead!

  48. #148
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    Chiming in since I've put almost 200 miles on my Prime.

    My other bike is a '17 Rune with CC Double Barrel Air, Fox 36 with grip 2, double down tires, TRP Quadiem Gspec brakes - this bike is built for crushing any and everything in my way. It pedals OK - tires are really the weakest link here.

    XO1 Prime from Jenson - pretty much stock except grips and tires. I am using the Bontrager XR4 up front and XR3 out back (both are 2.4). I wanted this bike to be a better all day bike - not so much focused on descending prowess. To that point - the bike is still very good when pointed down. Pedaling is certainly a cut above the Rune. I did 2500 ft of climbing in Flagstaff last Friday - it was honestly not a challenge. Effort was involved - but I didn't need to take any breaks going up a decent sized fire road. The Prime just kept plugging along (thanks Eagle). The DH was mainly fast flowy single track - too much fun.

    Now I'm eyeing a Push ACS3 170 spring for my Rune. No need to hold back now that I have the Prime in the stable.

  49. #149
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    [QUOTE=XO1 Prime from Jenson - pretty much stock except grips and tires. I am using the Bontrager XR4 up front and XR3 out back (both are 2.4). I wanted this bike to be a better all day bike - not so much focused on descending prowess. To that point - the bike is still very good when pointed down. Pedaling is certainly a cut above the Rune. I did 2500 ft of climbing in Flagstaff last Friday - it was honestly not a challenge. Effort was involved - but I didn't need to take any breaks going up a decent sized fire road. The Prime just kept plugging along (thanks Eagle). The DH was mainly fast flowy single track - too much fun[/QUOTE]

    Almost did that tire combo on my SLX Prime from Jenson. Changed my mind in the shop and went 2.6 XR2/XR4. E13 tire was like riding on a rug with Velcro tires.
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  50. #150
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    I've been on my 2018 orange Prime for about 2 months now and I'm constantly surprised at how well it handles everything I throw at it. This is truly a do-it-all bike that makes me want to ride as much as possible.

    One thing I need to mention is that the low/high dropout positions really make a decernable difference with this bike, IMO. Both settings are very useful. I first tried it in the high D/O position then tried the low. I actually prefer the high setting now for normal trail riding as it get the seat angle in a slightly more comfortable place for seated pedaling. On paper it's only .5 degrees difference but the body position feels much more centered over the bike for pedaling on the trail. I also notice the bike feels a tad snappier in tight corners in the higher setting. The awesome thing is that the high setting doesn't make the bike feel tall since the BB height is still relatively low at 13.5. It really does feel like the Swiss Army knife of bikes! Love being able to dial it in to suit the terrain I'm riding.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img_0991.jpg  


  51. #151
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    Man I love that orange/ yellow combo. Ever since the 2018 colorways came out I have been tossing orange vs black around in my head. I probably would have gone orange. However, when I saw that price on the frame at Jenson and noticed that it was a raw/ black combo, I have to admit...I nearly peed myself. Ever since I owned a Manitou FS frame back in the day I've been a sucker for naked aluminum bikes. Yummy.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    Man I love that orange/ yellow combo. Ever since the 2018 colorways came out I have been tossing orange vs black around in my head. I probably would have gone orange. However, when I saw that price on the frame at Jenson and noticed that it was a raw/ black combo, I have to admit...I nearly peed myself. Ever since I owned a Manitou FS frame back in the day I've been a sucker for naked aluminum bikes. Yummy.
    I did the same thing with the raw/back when I stumbled across them... And to think for this new bike i was all "i'm going to get the bright flashy one... I have too much black..." Welp that didn't happen.. couldn't dig the red. But that orange is hotttt....

    With respect to High/Low setting... I rode it stock/high for 3 days, put in low as I was going to the bike park.. Haven't looked back, also didn't feel a huge difference but again I was very new to the bike... May have to steepen it up in the spring..

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    I've been on my 2018 orange Prime for about 2 months now and I'm constantly surprised at how well it handles everything I throw at it. This is truly a do-it-all bike that makes me want to ride as much as possible..
    Exactly this. Ride it until you hear your name called for dinner! :^)

    Beautiful colour and bike you have received there. Someone mentioned a Candy Apple Red which, after Raw, would be stunning.

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    Man I love that orange/ yellow combo. Ever since the 2018 colorways came out I have been tossing orange vs black around in my head. I probably would have gone orange. However, when I saw that price on the frame at Jenson and noticed that it was a raw/ black combo, I have to admit...I nearly peed myself. Ever since I owned a Manitou FS frame back in the day I've been a sucker for naked aluminum bikes. Yummy.
    I hear you. The prices at Jenson right now are INSANELY good on Primes. The raw/black looks amazing. Such an underrated bike!

  55. #155
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    Iím hoping that with the popularity of the Raw finish Keith will add that as a standard option to the line up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  56. #156
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    Just seen the blue and yellow finish on IG as the limited edition. That looks the business too. It's a rich deep inky blue.

  57. #157
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    the raw really is a beauty,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-banshee.jpg  


  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    the raw really is a beauty,
    Yaaaaaaaaaasssss! That is perfect.

    At this rate I might have mine built by Thanksgiving.

  59. #159
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    Recently went from my Fox X2 to the stock Monarch Plus RC3. Loving this Monarch, odd as that may sound. It's smooth.

    Winter plans include some Fox 36 loving. Going to drop it to 150mm and a Luftkappe. I think this bike in low with a 150mm will be perfect. A bit too floppy for me now and don't want to go to high setting since I love me some low BB's now....

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img_20181011_165310.jpg

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    the raw really is a beauty,
    Looking good there Dave Mac. Got to live the raw finish.

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Recently went from my Fox X2 to the stock Monarch Plus RC3. Loving this Monarch, odd as that may sound. It's smooth.

    Winter plans include some Fox 36 loving. Going to drop it to 150mm and a Luftkappe. I think this bike in low with a 150mm will be perfect. A bit too floppy for me now and don't want to go to high setting since I love me some low BB's now....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's interesting you say that. Only yesterday I put the stock RS Monarch Plus on and noticed the same thing. I didn't ride it but just bounced around on it in the garage.

    Once I'd replaced the bushing on the X2 eyelet I put the X2 back on.

    I'm in agreement with you on 160mm at the front too. I like it generally and she climbs so very well but I feel 150f / 135r I'd more balanced and better for overall trail riding. There's a 150mm airshaft sat in the parts box waiting to be used next lowers service.

    I'm interested in what you think of the result once you've completed it.

    Planning on running some 2.6" or 2.8" tyres on 27.5 wheels shortly so will put the bike back in high position to avoid pedal strikes.

  62. #162
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    Does anybody had some time riding his Prime with new cane creek IL shock?
    Is it more reliable than previous version?
    How compares with monarch plusDA, if you switched it?
    thanks

  63. #163
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    Still feeling it...

    I took the Banshee Prime out to Harcourt VIC again for its second outing. It was just as good as the first. The bike handles everything beautifully and the only limiting factor is the pilot!

    Currently set at 135mm(r) and 160mm (f)
    I'm about to play with the bike given its versatility.

    Off come the 29" wheels and 160mm air shaft.
    Replaced by Hope 35mm internal width 27.5" wheels. Running 2.6 tyres (might be a touch too low). I have seen that 2.8" are only 1mm taller than 2.6" and obviously this varies brand to brand.

    I'm going to put the Lyrik fork at 150mm and bring the rear up to the high setting which should offset some of the lost height.

    Here's how it currently looks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20181020_122056.jpg  

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20181020_132145.jpg  


  64. #164
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    Holy shit, that's a lot of changes, by going from the slack to high and then lowering the fork 10mm, you're going to be steepening the angles about 1 degree and then with the B+ tyres, you'll probably drop the BB about 1.5cm even with going to the high setting. I'm thinking that if you ride a lot of chunk where you need to pedal, you're going to either be doing a lot of pedal timing/ratcheting and/or smashing your pedals a lot.

    I put 2.8" B+ Nobby Nics on my Prime once, was good and fun playing Hulk smash on our chunkiest trails, but almost didn't require paying attention, just dumbed it all down, way too much, but then again, I'm a guy who likes to ride technical trails slowly picking my lines and clearing obstacles instead of using speed and flying/hoping over all the fun stuff - e.g. love riding my rigid Unit on our most technical trails, such a challenge and gives such a feeling of accomplishment when you're not that far behind the guys on FS and in the bigger, slow speed stuff, where you can't use momentum and the suspension, they're holding you up.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I took the Banshee Prime out to Harcourt VIC again for its second outing. It was just as good as the first. The bike handles everything beautifully and the only limiting factor is the pilot!
    Currently set at 135mm(r) and 160mm (f) I'm about to play with the bike given its versatility.

    Off come the 29" wheels and 160mm air shaft. Replaced by Hope 35mm internal width 27.5" wheels. Running 2.6 tyres (might be a touch too low). I have seen that 2.8" are only 1mm taller than 2.6" and obviously this varies brand to brand. I'm going to put the Lyrik fork at 150mm and bring the rear up to the high setting which should offset some of the lost height.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  65. #165
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    I like where you're going with your Prime. My Phantom is very similar, being 140mm travel up front and running 27.5x2.8, also in the High position.

    I would suggest you try the bike at 27.5x2.6 and in the High setting first. Then decide if you really want to drop the fork travel 10mm. I do have a lot more pedal strikes running the 27.5 wheelset.


    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I took the Banshee Prime out to Harcourt VIC again for its second outing. It was just as good as the first. The bike handles everything beautifully and the only limiting factor is the pilot!

    Currently set at 135mm(r) and 160mm (f)
    I'm about to play with the bike given its versatility.

    Off come the 29" wheels and 160mm air shaft.
    Replaced by Hope 35mm internal width 27.5" wheels. Running 2.6 tyres (might be a touch too low). I have seen that 2.8" are only 1mm taller than 2.6" and obviously this varies brand to brand.

    I'm going to put the Lyrik fork at 150mm and bring the rear up to the high setting which should offset some of the lost height.

    Here's how it currently looks.

  66. #166
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    Most of where I ride isn't all that chunky. I preference flowing trails and absolutely use speed and momentum to generate fun. I don't mind rock garden work but it's not my first choice.

    Like I say, it might be too low and I'll keep the fork at 160mm for the first try as the lowers don't need a service just yet.

    It's just an experiment for the moment. If I don't like it I can put them on my Remedy and stop worrying about the carbon ones..

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69tr6r View Post
    I like where you're going with your Prime. My Phantom is very similar, being 140mm travel up front and running 27.5x2.8, also in the High position.

    I would suggest you try the bike at 27.5x2.6 and in the High setting first. Then decide if you really want to drop the fork travel 10mm. I do have a lot more pedal strikes running the 27.5 wheelset.
    Thanks, that's good advice. I'm not sure I want 2.8 as they probably do mute the trail a lot. I like just being able to blast through things on a bike and then other times having to thread a bike along a trail is appealing too.

    With this bike I plan to have 3 options on how to run it.
    Option one: Light trail.
    140mm Fox 34 fork, with 29" carbon wheels, 2.3" tyres in high setting.

    Option two: aggro trail / enduro.
    160mm or 150mm RS Lyrik with 29" aluminium wheels (29mm internal), 2.4" tyres in low setting.

    Option three: Smash / Fun mode.
    160mm RS Lyrik, 35mm wide 27.5" wheels with 2.6" tyres in high setting.

    I've actually enjoyed option one and two and feel that the sweet spot is probably 150mm at 29"x 2.4" tyres.

    Happy to experiment and see what happens.

    I got inspired by a mate with a SCHTLT running 2.8's (even though he probably shouldn't as it's not the OGHT).

    Photos to follow when I get it done.

  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Thanks, that's good advice. I'm not sure I want 2.8 as they probably do mute the trail a lot. I like just being able to blast through things on a bike and then other times having to thread a bike along a trail is appealing too.

    With this bike I plan to have 3 options on how to run it.
    Option one: Light trail.
    140mm Fox 34 fork, with 29" carbon wheels, 2.3" tyres in high setting.

    Option two: aggro trail / enduro.
    160mm or 150mm RS Lyrik with 29" aluminium wheels (29mm internal), 2.4" tyres in low setting.

    Option three: Smash / Fun mode.
    160mm RS Lyrik, 35mm wide 27.5" wheels with 2.6" tyres in high setting.

    I've actually enjoyed option one and two and feel that the sweet spot is probably 150mm at 29"x 2.4" tyres.

    Happy to experiment and see what happens.

    I got inspired by a mate with a SCHTLT running 2.8's (even though he probably shouldn't as it's not the OGHT).

    Photos to follow when I get it done.
    Very Cool! I do something similar with my Phantom as well. I put on my 29er wheels and drop into the Low setting for the bikepark and rougher riding areas. Such a versatile bike brand!

  69. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by filbike View Post
    Does anybody had some time riding his Prime with new cane creek IL shock?
    Is it more reliable than previous version?
    How compares with monarch plusDA, if you switched it?
    thanks
    I had the CC Inline (OG version) on mine and really enjoyed it before it died. Good small bump compliance, good support and pedaling performance. I bet the IL is even better since it has a larger negative air spring and more reliable internals. I was tempted have my inline upgraded to the IL but had a DVO Topaz waiting for me to try out. I will be interested in how you like the IL if you go that way.

  70. #170
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    Hi Jon,
    Just wondering how you found your Prime through all the climbing at Harcourt? Especially the techy climbing trails like trail 8?
    I recently snapped my 2018 Trek Fuel Ex 8 and have my eye on a Prime as something to do a better job enduro style riding while not being complete overkill for trail riding (my locals are Lysterfield, which is already pretty bland on a fuel, and Redhill). My mates live for the descents, while I don't mind a longer trail ride (eg. Epic trail @Buller), so I'm hoping to find something that'll do both well.
    Would love you thoughts (and anyone else who wants to chime in haha)

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Hi Jon,
    Just wondering how you found your Prime through all the climbing at Harcourt? Especially the techy climbing trails like trail 8?
    I recently snapped my 2018 Trek Fuel Ex 8 and have my eye on a Prime as something to do a better job enduro style riding while not being complete overkill for trail riding (my locals are Lysterfield, which is already pretty bland on a fuel, and Redhill). My mates live for the descents, while I don't mind a longer trail ride (eg. Epic trail @Buller), so I'm hoping to find something that'll do both well.
    Would love you thoughts (and anyone else who wants to chime in haha)
    Hey Michael,
    Happy to reply on this. I had a Trek Fuel EX 9.9 MY15 and loved it but broke it. My trails are exactly the ones you mention and the Prime is a great choice. Frankly speaking I prefer it in every way to my Fuel.

    The techy climbing at Harcourt is testing but I never had any problems due to the bike. I was a little tired towards the end but it climbs like a dream. Super composed and assured, efficient and comfortable.

    It depends on how you set it up. I've gone perhaps a little too far biased to downhill and at 160mm f / 135mm r it still is an excellent ride. Redhill is just obscene fun on it. Deadwould and Fall Line? The Prime just sails through it.

    Tight uphill switchbacks at Harcourt had my mate astounded at how well the Prime handled them.

    And having ridden Buller Epic a couple of times I'd have no hesitation in taking the Banshee, and that's with me owning a lighter, longer travel FS carbon bike that's reasonably tricked out.

    I have precisely no regrets buying this bike and I sound like I'm on the payroll for Banshee but it really is that good.

    Depending on what you want / need it is helped by the X2 I put on it but the Monarch Plus is still very nice.

    Happy to answer any other questions you may have. :^)
    Last edited by JonJones; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:12 AM. Reason: Forgot one question.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Most of where I ride isn't all that chunky. I preference flowing trails and absolutely use speed and momentum to generate fun. I don't mind rock garden work but it's not my first choice.

    Like I say, it might be too low and I'll keep the fork at 160mm for the first try as the lowers don't need a service just yet.

    It's just an experiment for the moment. If I don't like it I can put them on my Remedy and stop worrying about the carbon ones..
    I ride with 27.5 -2.8 had to switch to 165mm cranks and love them much more natural for me in my pedaling, also almost no more pedal strikes (reason I switched)

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Hey Michael,
    Happy to reply on this. I had a Trek Fuel EX 9.9 MY15 and loved it but broke it. My trails are exactly the ones you mention and the Prime is a great choice. Frankly speaking I prefer it in every way to my Fuel.

    The techy climbing at Harcourt is testing but I never had any problems due to the bike. I was a little tired towards the end but it climbs like a dream. Super composed and assured, efficient and comfortable.

    It depends on how you set it up. I've gone perhaps a little too far biased to downhill and at 160mm f / 135mm r it still is an excellent ride. Redhill is just obscene fun on it. Deadwould and Fall Line? The Prime just sails through it.

    Tight uphill switchbacks at Harcourt had my mate astounded at how well the Prime handled them.

    And having ridden Buller Epic a couple of times I'd have no hesitation in taking the Banshee, and that's with me owning a lighter, longer travel FS carbon bike that's reasonably tricked out.

    I have precisely no regrets buying this bike and I sound like I'm on the payroll for Banshee but it really is that good.

    Depending on what you want / need it is helped by the X2 I put on it but the Monarch Plus is still very nice.

    Happy to answer any other questions you may have. :^)
    Thanks so much for the super fast reply! That's pretty much what I wanted to hear. If insurance will lete get one I think I'm sold. Just can't decide on setting it to 150 or 160...

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    I had the CC Inline (OG version) on mine and really enjoyed it before it died. Good small bump compliance, good support and pedaling performance. I bet the IL is even better since it has a larger negative air spring and more reliable internals. I was tempted have my inline upgraded to the IL but had a DVO Topaz waiting for me to try out. I will be interested in how you like the IL if you go that way.
    Thanks for the reply.
    I knew that CC Inline was a good shock on this frame 'til it worked.
    I'm having good times on my monarch but it is in its fourth year of service and I wonder
    if new CC IL will perform better and how long will last. Found good offer on it.

  75. #175
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    After all the crap that's happened with those shocks and the fact that you HAVE to send it back to the factory to be serviced basically every year, I'd not sink one dime into one, much better off looking at a Manitou McLeod if you're looking to not spend much or something like a DHX2, DVO Topaz or X-Fusion Vector.

    Quote Originally Posted by filbike View Post
    Thanks for the reply.
    I knew that CC Inline was a good shock on this frame 'til it worked.
    I'm having good times on my monarch but it is in its fourth year of service and I wonder
    if new CC IL will perform better and how long will last. Found good offer on it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Hey Michael,
    ...I sound like I'm on the payroll for Banshee but it really is that good.
    LOL, same here man. I just talked a local guy through Banshees via email - and he ended up ordering a Rune. Felt like such a fanboi. But they're just good bikes, so I'll say good things. It's that easy. And another Banshee to see in Pisgah - what's not to like!?

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    After all the crap that's happened with those shocks and the fact that you HAVE to send it back to the factory to be serviced basically every year, I'd not sink one dime into one, much better off looking at a Manitou McLeod if you're looking to not spend much or something like a DHX2, DVO Topaz or X-Fusion Vector.
    The Inline was a reliability disaster but didn't CC fix most of the issues on the IL version?

  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    LOL, same here man. I just talked a local guy through Banshees via email - and he ended up ordering a Rune. Felt like such a fanboi. But they're just good bikes, so I'll say good things. It's that easy. And another Banshee to see in Pisgah - what's not to like!?
    That's the way of it. For me I'm after capability, reliability and adjustability. It all adds up to that "ride until I can't ride anymore" feeling.

    Everytime I see a Banshee on the trail I call out
    " Thats a nice bike Mr!"

    Even my wife is suggesting I get another one.
    #shesakeeper

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Thanks so much for the super fast reply! That's pretty much what I wanted to hear. If insurance will lete get one I think I'm sold. Just can't decide on setting it to 150 or 160...
    160mm front is super fun. Descending is just ludicrous and you can be quite indescriminate with line choice if you want. I've also made all the Redhill climbs on it at that setting (in low too) so it won't compromise that aspect.

    Having run 160mm and 140mm I'd say for me the sweet spot is 150mm. I'm able to weight the nose quite well as I'm 6'4" and 200+lbs. Even then I've noticed the feint hint of drifting from the front.
    If you're after a more balanced and precise ride then 140mm to 150mm is the go.

    On my Remedy, which is also at 160mm, the stack is lower and the nose goes where you point it all the time.

    Interestingly a mate of mine just bought a Ripmo (couldn't get him off his 6th element addiction) and he noticed at 160mm front the nose wanders and drifts a touch.

    Have you got a fork in mind?

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Hi Jon,
    Just wondering how you found your Prime through all the climbing at Harcourt? Especially the techy climbing trails like trail 8?
    I recently snapped my 2018 Trek Fuel Ex 8 and have my eye on a Prime as something to do a better job enduro style riding while not being complete overkill for trail riding (my locals are Lysterfield, which is already pretty bland on a fuel, and Redhill). My mates live for the descents, while I don't mind a longer trail ride (eg. Epic trail @Buller), so I'm hoping to find something that'll do both well.
    Would love you thoughts (and anyone else who wants to chime in haha)
    I've taken my Prime to Harcourt also and the limiting factor on Track 8 is me
    Mines in slack setting with a lyric RC2 at 160 and an IL coil

    Ive just got back from a weekend at Lakes Entrance and did Mt Taylor and Colquohoun and took all the climbing and descending in its stride

    Another Banshee Fanboi here!
    Last edited by I Like Dirt; 2 Weeks Ago at 05:55 PM.

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    160mm front is super fun. Descending is just ludicrous and you can be quite indescriminate with line choice if you want. I've also made all the Redhill climbs on it at that setting (in low too) so it won't compromise that aspect.

    Having run 160mm and 140mm I'd say for me the sweet spot is 150mm. I'm able to weight the nose quite well as I'm 6'4" and 200+lbs. Even then I've noticed the feint hint of drifting from the front.
    If you're after a more balanced and precise ride then 140mm to 150mm is the go.

    On my Remedy, which is also at 160mm, the stack is lower and the nose goes where you point it all the time.

    Interestingly a mate of mine just bought a Ripmo (couldn't get him off his 6th element addiction) and he noticed at 160mm front the nose wanders and drifts a touch.

    Have you got a fork in mind?
    I'm hoping to keep the Fox 36 Performance Elite off my Trek. It's currently set at 140mm, but I will bump it up. I hit Banshee up on FB messenger and they also said the sweet spot is 150mm, so sounds like that will probably be the go!
    Last edited by michael.c; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:13 PM. Reason: displayed weird

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Dirt View Post
    I've taken my Prime to Harcourt also and the limiting factor on Track 8 is me
    Mines in slack setting with a lyric RC2 at 160 and an IL coil

    Ive just got back from a weekend at Lakes Entrance and did Mt Taylor and Colquohoun and took all the climbing and descending in its stride

    Another Banshee Fanboi here!
    Thanks heaps for your thoughts too - always good to get opinions from people who know your local (or sort of local) trails. I don't suppose you've run yours at 150mm too?

  83. #183
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    I have a 150mm spring for the Lyric and wanted a 150mm lyric but could only get 160 at the time .
    By the way red lyric and red raw frame is a perfect color match

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Like Dirt View Post
    I have a 150mm spring for the Lyric and wanted a 150mm lyric but could only get 160 at the time .
    By the way red lyric and red raw frame is a perfect color match
    Cheers for that!

  85. #185
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    Prime 27.5+ experiment

    Hi Banshee lovers.
    I decided to play about with my Prime.
    My stock setting for the moment is 29" wheels with 29mm internal width and 2.4" tyres in the low setting.
    Fork is set at 160mm too.

    It certainly rides exceptionally well like this but I'd like to play about with it.
    It's a versatile bike and I decided to get some Hope 35w Tech wheels which are 27.5 with a 34mm wide internal measurement.

    I was going to run 2.8" tyres but have seen and read some are bigger than others. Additionally, I don't really want oversize tyres to dull the ride so I thought I'd give 2.6" tyres a go.

    This is how it looks running those wheels with 2.6 Bontrager Team Editions.
    They're 2.6" wide (XR4 front and XR2 rear). I am yet to experience what it's like but hopefully it'll be an interesting difference. The fork is still at 160mm and I've put the bike in high position. Tyre clearance is pretty good in the rear for height, width is a little tight so I'm glad not to have run the 2.8"s. I may well change the rears for an XR4 too as I like them balanced.

    Hopefully I get to ride it this weekend and see what it's like. If I don't like it I'll keep the wheels for another build or on my Remedy for when I'm feeling like mashing ups some rock garden goodness.

    It's certainly nice to have something this versatile so you can play around with set ups.

    Top photo is 27.5"+ setting in high


    Bottom one is 29" setting in low

    Thanks for reading!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-banshee-275-plus.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  86. #186
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    Really? Curious to see a photo of what you call "a little tight", because when 29+ sorta first came out, I managed to fit a true 3" tyre in the back of my Phantom with passable clearance and there's a few guys running their Primes as 29+ using the long drop outs.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones
    Tyre clearance is pretty good in the rear for height, width is a little tight so I'm glad not to have run the 2.8"s.
    FYI, currently have my Prime setup with asym i35s shod with 2.8" Rekon 3C/EXO (measure 2 5/8"/67mm) to help cushion the ride even more because of a damaged thumb. Haven't ridden it yet, as decided to give the thumb another week of rest, but hoping o get out by this weekend and see how it goes. Previously rode it with same wheels and 2.8" Nobby Nics.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  87. #187
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    I ride with 27.5 plus Rekon 2.8 and they are really 2.6 when measured they hook up great except in wet. I will be keeping this set up for some time as it is has been awesome for me. that is one thing that I really like about the prime is its abilty to run so many differnt wheel/tire sizes,,,........get bored with the bike just get a new wheel set or tire size to spruce things up a little is how I look at it, and I am far from bored with the 2.75 plus tires down the road I will try 29-2.6 as I have herd many good reports

    Jon I look forward to your feed back on your set up, one thing that I had to do was put smaller cranks on mine 165mm because the pedal strikes (from 175mm) turns out the 165mm cranks are much more natural for me to pedal and was a huge plus as well. Make sure you put the BB in the high setting,

  88. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Really? Curious to see a photo of what you call "a little tight", because when 29+ sorta first came out, I managed to fit a true 3" tyre in the back of my Phantom with passable clearance and there's a few guys running their Primes as 29+ using the long drop outs.

    FYI, currently have my Prime setup with asym i35s shod with 2.8" Rekon 3C/EXO (measure 2 5/8"/67mm) to help cushion the ride even more because of a damaged thumb. Haven't ridden it yet, as decided to give the thumb another week of rest, but hoping o get out by this weekend and see how it goes. Previously rode it with same wheels and 2.8" Nobby Nics.
    I know, it looked a little strange to me. It might be me not looking hard enough. There's no way the tyre will rub. And I expect it's no concern really.

    Sorry to hear about the damaged thumb. I had UCL surgery on mine years ago and that took ages to heal up. Hopefully yours is all set!

    I've got to say the Bontrager tyres are huge and will make a difference to comfort.

  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    I ride with 27.5 plus Rekon 2.8 and they are really 2.6 when measured they hook up great except in wet. I will be keeping this set up for some time as it is has been awesome for me. that is one thing that I really like about the prime is its abilty to run so many differnt wheel/tire sizes,,,........get bored with the bike just get a new wheel set or tire size to spruce things up a little is how I look at it, and I am far from bored with the 2.75 plus tires down the road I will try 29-2.6 as I have herd many good reports

    Jon I look forward to your feed back on your set up, one thing that I had to do was put smaller cranks on mine 165mm because the pedal strikes (from 175mm) turns out the 165mm cranks are much more natural for me to pedal and was a huge plus as well. Make sure you put the BB in the high setting,
    Thanks Dave Mac.
    I agree about changing set ups. It's a great basis for different rides.

    The 160mm forks are going to help with the BB height along with the high setting.
    I was running 180mm cranks (loved them) and moved to 175mm.

    Fingers crossed for a winning combination and it's good to hear you're enjoying this combination yourself.

  90. #190
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    Ok, it seems I can rest easy on clearances.
    The drive side clearance is 0.25" and NDS is ~0.5".
    The difference is duu to me having an inner tube wrapped around the drive side chain stay.
    At the seat stays it's ~0.4" on either side.

    Like said though, the Bontrager tyres are huge...

  91. #191
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    Thanks man. Not sure exactly what's happened, hand got wrung up and bit separating a dog fight, then I think I then managed to hit the knucle on the thumb and have bruised the bone along with maybe stretched/torn a few ligaments, know it'll be long recovery.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Sorry to hear about the damaged thumb. I had UCL surgery on mine years ago and that took ages to heal up. Hopefully yours is all set!
    Yeah, Bonti tyres are known to run true to size or seem bigger if you're accustomed to other brands for the size and work well on wider rims than most of the same size. Their lightest casings are damn tough and setup tubelesss so easy, but can't get them for what I can get Maxxis stuff for.
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I've got to say the Bontrager tyres are huge and will make a difference to comfort.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  92. #192
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    First ride with 27.5+ wheels and tyres.
    The first thing I noticed was the change in geo from low to high, it put a little more weight in the nose, as well as making the rear need a little fine tuning.

    It still pedalled amazingly well and I actually found I was in the higher gears more often which might have something to do with the smaller overall circumference.

    I had to drop the tyre pressures to suit but once it lands on the magic setting the grip and comfort is superb. Especially at the moment in Australia it's just dry and dusty, these tyres just grip forever and feel very comfortable.

    I also noticed that the handling sharpened up. On one of my regular descents there are lots of tight switchbacks and it just railled through them.

    Rollover isn't so good but hardly terrible and it therefore feels less of a plough like experience.

    I only got two brushes of pedal / foot strikes and that was very light. I was expecting more and it does mean that I'd probably need to keep the forks at 160mm.

    So far, so good. I'd say I prefer 29" but I've got to give this a fair go before making a decision.
    Last edited by JonJones; 1 Week Ago at 07:51 PM.

  93. #193
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    Well, you did basically drop an entire wheel size going with the 2.6" vs the 2.8"s, hence less plough feeling and lots sharper slow speed tight handling. Definitely notice an increased "plow factor" with the B+ 2.8"s on mine over regular 29x2.3"s. You would probably be about 1 gear "off" the 29er setup with this setup, so where you would have used the 3rd largest cog before, you were probably in the 4th largest. Surprised you didn't notice more pedal strikes with this setup, maybe you went in with that thought in the back of your mind and were more cognoscente of it and pedal timing. The wider tyres would definitely be a big asset in very dusty, loose, sandy conditions, something I noticed years ago just going from regular XC 2.1" to 2.4"s.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones
    I also noticed that the handling sharpened up. On one of my regular descents there are lots of tight switchbacks and it just railled through them.

    Rollover isn't so good but hardly terrible and it therefore feels less of a plough like experience.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  94. #194
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    Hi all,

    Looking for some help on sizing - 187cm - so 6'1.75 in the old. I'm pretty even between legs/torse height, maybe a slightly + ape factor. I THINK the XL is what I need, but not 100% sure, and won't be able to test ride to know for sure.

    Anyone who fits either of the below I'd some a response:

    1) Around my height - how tall are you,what size are you riding and how is it set up?
    2) Riding an XL - how tall are you and how it your cockpit set up?

    I rode an XL Rune today in Rotorua and initially it felt slightly long, but 30 mins in it was fantastic, but it didn't help much size wise though, as the Rune is in between the Prime L and XL size. It felt good with wide bars and a 40mm stem. The NZ rep happened to be in the hire shop at the time and let me take his L Phantom for a lap of the car park - that felt really good size wise, but mostly because it felt the same as the Trek that I snapped, which felt good until I pointed down hill - then it felt a little cramped...

    I'm thinking a XL with either a 30 or 40mm stem should be the go, but really not sure

  95. #195
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    Go for the XL.

    Iīm 182 and riding a large with a 50mm stem. Riding my mates XL with a 35mm stem is still doable and quite fun. Only reason I decided for a large is I had a great offer for a used frame and my cornering technique is really not the best, so I try to get all the benefits in terms of manouvrability. Also I had a 170mm reverb and wasnīt sure if it fits. Today I would go for the XL since the seat tube is still short enough for me to move around with a 150mm variopost.

  96. #196
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    Hi there.
    I'm 1.93m or 6'4" and ride an XL sized Prime.
    35mm stem with 800mm wide bars.
    170mm dropper with about 50mm showing.
    Having a longer stem would make the bike feel too long in my view.

    However, set up like this the bike fits me perfectly and I have long arms and legs. 36" inseam.

    I appreciate it's difficult to get the size right when you're between sizes.

    Reach will depend on your set up including fork travel. I have mine at 160mm which is 20mm over the 140mm the stats are calculated on and therefore will shorten the reach from 480mm to a touch less.

    I believe at almost 6'2" you're in XL country and you'd just have less post showing than me.

    Let me know if you need anything else to help!

  97. #197
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    Hey Michael, Just a smidge taller than you at 6'2.25" tall, definite ape index and I'm on a pre-production XL which has a Reach of 475mm and run a 50mm stem and 780mm bar. I also own a Large 2014 Phantom with a Reach of 450mm and run between a 60-70mm stem and 780 bar. I run both bikes with setback posts because of my long legs, my like of pushing harder gears and not spinning like a hamster and going no where and love of riding "all country", flat, rolling trails, climbing, descending, not just up to go down.

    I got the Prime back in 2012 as part of Banshee's excellent pre-production philosophy of a small batch run of about 60 frames, sold at a discount around the world to riders to get feedback and make final decisions when they make major changes/introduce something new - the KS link was born on the Prime.

    This was my first foray into the world of a bike like this, previously it was always more XC oriented, even on the Paradox I had before I got the Prime I ran a 690 bar/90mm stem until I ordered the parts for the Prime and there was a delay and I tried the 780 bar on the Paradox and moved to a 90mm stem and then 80mm and finally settled on a 70mm (hence why I ended up on the Large Phantom with a Reach 2mm different from the Paradox).

    I initially set the Prime up with a 65mm stem and the 780mm bar because that gave me a cockpit I was more accustomed to and it handled quite well on pretty much everything, except when pointed down and the really fast stuff, there I had issues with the front end pushing I guess would be the best descriptor. I rode the Prime like this until I got the Phantom and then transferred all parts to it and changed to a 70mm stem and it handled well everywhere, up, downs, flats, slow tight, fast twisty.

    After a couple years exclusively on the L Phantom, I had managed to accumulate enough parts to rebuild the Prime and did so, but noting that I had basically been running the L Phantom with the exact same cockpit setup as the Prime sans a bit longer stem and so installed a 50mm stem on it and voila, the handling at speed was gone basically and still the slow speed handling was there and all the rest of the other stuff. I now run it in the slack position with a 50mm stem/780 bar and wouldn't want it any longer cockpit wise.

    So I guess what I'm trying to say is it all depends on how and what you like to ride, if you're someone who does the climbing, just for the downs, then definitely go for the XL with a 35mm stem, if however you like to climb and/or ride on flatter/rolling trails where lots of pedaling is involved, then maybe the Large with 60-70mm stem would better suit you. Also you need to note how old you are and your flexibility, me, I'm not far off 50, haven't taken care to do proper stretching over the years and so, suffer some lower back/leg issues which restrict my flexibility, hence sit a good bit more upright than 10 years ago and this influences my setup.

    Hope some of that rambling helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Hi all, Looking for some help on sizing - 187cm - so 6'1.75 in the old. I'm pretty even between legs/torse height, maybe a slightly + ape factor. I THINK the XL is what I need, but not 100% sure, and won't be able to test ride to know for sure. Anyone who fits either of the below I'd some a response:
    I'm thinking a XL with either a 30 or 40mm stem should be the go, but really not sure
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  98. #198
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    I'm 188cm with 92cm inseam and have a prime xl with a 35mm stem and a spitfire l with a 45mm stem. I like the spitfire the most since it's easier to flick around and jump on and off stuff.
    If you ride really steep terrain the prime does give more confidence (and even more at higher speeds). It's a bit harder to manoeuvre the prime, but i guess the bigger wheels also come into play concerning the manoeuvrability. The prime has a more planted feel, but i'm not sure it's due to the size or wheel difference.

    So it's mostly personal preference and the terrain you ride locally. Can't go "wrong" with either the prime in L or XL in my opinion

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Well, you did basically drop an entire wheel size going with the 2.6" vs the 2.8"s, hence less plough feeling and lots sharper slow speed tight handling. Definitely notice an increased "plow factor" with the B+ 2.8"s on mine over regular 29x2.3"s. You would probably be about 1 gear "off" the 29er setup with this setup, so where you would have used the 3rd largest cog before, you were probably in the 4th largest. Surprised you didn't notice more pedal strikes with this setup, maybe you went in with that thought in the back of your mind and were more cognoscente of it and pedal timing. The wider tyres would definitely be a big asset in very dusty, loose, sandy conditions, something I noticed years ago just going from regular XC 2.1" to 2.4"s.
    Thanks, and sorry for the slow response. You're quite right. It feels like a different bike and I suspect 2.8" might be closer to the right height and I could just have fun with plow mode.

    I'll try some when I get a momen and after a decent amount of time on the 2.6".

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Hi all,

    Looking for some help on sizing - 187cm - so 6'1.75 in the old. I'm pretty even between legs/torse height, maybe a slightly + ape factor. I THINK the XL is what I need, but not 100% sure, and won't be able to test ride to know for sure.
    I'm thinking a XL with either a 30 or 40mm stem should be the go, but really not sure
    I would go XL. I'm 6' on a large and it feels perfect with a 45-50mm stem. If I was any taller I would go XL.

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