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  1. #201
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    Thanks everyone - ordered the XL

  2. #202
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    Smart choice, and your life just improved by approximately 230%, give or take. :^).

    Looking forward to seeing build pictures and hearing your ride impressions.

  3. #203
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    I'm new to the Banshee family, having only owned my Prime for 2 weeks now. It's been a really fun bike so far except for one issue. When I ride rough trails the rear DT Swiss axle will loosen multiple times on me. I have installed the dropout as described in the Banshee site with wheel in place and axle tightened an then tighten the bolts. The last ride I even used some blue lock tight and it still loosened. I had a similar problem on a 5010 with a DT axle. Maybe it's the axle? Anyone else having this problem? Thanks!
    2017 Banshee Prime
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  4. #204
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    Same. I swapped to a Maxle Stealth. No problems with loosening since quite some time.

  5. #205
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    Mine did for the first few rides then has been great since. I don't take my wheel off often though so maybe that plays into it?

  6. #206
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    i added some teflon tape to the thread and it stopped my axle from loosening up.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by rclugnut View Post
    Mine did for the first few rides then has been great since. I don't take my wheel off often though so maybe that plays into it?
    Me neither. In the woods I rarely had it loosening, but on long runs from mountains top to bottom Or park days It needed retightening several times a day.

  8. #208
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    It never happens on mine. The Teflon tape suggestion is what I would do too.

    Presuming there's a tolerance issue on yours, can you take it to the supplier / LBS to check?

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    I'm new to the Banshee family, having only owned my Prime for 2 weeks now. It's been a really fun bike so far except for one issue. When I ride rough trails the rear DT Swiss axle will loosen multiple times on me. I have installed the dropout as described in the Banshee site with wheel in place and axle tightened an then tighten the bolts. The last ride I even used some blue lock tight and it still loosened. I had a similar problem on a 5010 with a DT axle. Maybe it's the axle? Anyone else having this problem? Thanks!
    just in case you did not see this thread on the topic some other suggestions in here https://forums.mtbr.com/banshee-bike...s-1090897.html

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    just in case you did not see this thread on the topic some other suggestions in here https://forums.mtbr.com/banshee-bike...s-1090897.html
    Thanks Dave for this thread find! I'll try some red lock tight and see what that does!
    Love my new Prime!!
    2017 Banshee Prime
    2017 Niner Rip 9 RDO Pushed Version!
    2015 Ibis HD3 w/ Push ASC3
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Smart choice, and your life just improved by approximately 230%, give or take. :^).

    Looking forward to seeing build pictures and hearing your ride impressions.
    Cheers Jon,

    I already feel like its improved 100% and the bike isn't even built yet - if its as much fun as the Rune i tested was, then 230% may be a little conservative!

    It's in at Summit at the moment, due to get built up this week - hoping to get out on Sunday for a good ride - will chuck up a photo or two then!

  12. #212
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    Great to hear! I bet Sunday can't arrive soon enough.

    I have been playing with X2 settings and found the bike a little more harsh than I'd prefer. Clearly I had too much time on my hands.

    I then removed almost all HSC and LSC settings and set sag as per recommendations and it's back to being its beautiful best. Pedals like a dream and descends with assurance and composure.

    No bobbing or wallowing, it's just perfect with the shock set open for my preferences.

  13. #213
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    Just picked up the bike (will post some photos later, currently sitting next to me in the office under harsh fluorescent lighting haha)

    Suggested sag is 30% right? Everyone happy with this?

  14. #214
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    Measured in mm mine is at 14mm travel. And super happy. I've found on the X2 I can run it with almost no compression damping too and it feels wonderful. Doesn't bottom out too.

    Not sure if there's a spacer in it as I didn't check when I got it.

    Enjoy!

  15. #215
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    I've run 28% with good results, improved pedaling, and small bump does feel effected. This is on an rc3 plus

  16. #216
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    Build pic as promised - taking it for its first hit out tomorrow at Harcourt.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img_20181124_153051_331.jpg

  17. #217
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    Harcourt is great fun. Trail #2 descent... Get into it!

    Then the tech on the other side is well worth the effort for the descent.
    And your Prime looks the goods, loving the fork and Hope brakes.

    Did you go 150mm fork? Looks like low settings? And wheels?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Harcourt is great fun. Trail #2 descent... Get into it!

    Then the tech on the other side is well worth the effort for the descent.
    And your Prime looks the goods, loving the fork and Hope brakes.

    Did you go 150mm fork? Looks like low settings? And wheels?
    Yeah I've done Harcourt a couple times on my old trek. Trail 2 is great, and 11 is a stack of fun once you've put in the hard yards with the climb.

    Yeah, went with the 150mm fork, wheels are the Bontrager Line Comp off my Trek for now. Will run them into the ground and then see what I decide to do from there. Hope brakes and stem, raceface bars, gx eagle groupset.

    Absolutely loved the bike, but slight bummer that the shop who built it didn't do a good job on the gears and it was slipping all over the place. Get that sorted and I'll be a VERY happy man!

  19. #219
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    Those Line Comps will do the job. You're so right about trail 11, that climb really gets its money's worth out of you. On the way down I'm usually just hanging on dear life!

    Glad you're loving the bike, I think the 150mm fork makes the most sense overall and hopefully you'll get the skipping gears resolved quickly.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Those Line Comps will do the job. You're so right about trail 11, that climb really gets its money's worth out of you. On the way down I'm usually just hanging on dear life!

    Glad you're loving the bike, I think the 150mm fork makes the most sense overall and hopefully you'll get the skipping gears resolved quickly.
    Got it out at Red Hill over the weekend, and while the ride was cut short with another mechanical (think I've destroyed the hub in the rear bontrager line comp), the Prime is a beast down there - pretty confident I would have smashed my PB down fall line and pins despite still adjusting to the wide bars/short stem combo; while I think it may climb better than my old fuel with the shock in trail mode. This bike is amazing

  21. #221
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    I remember my first ride on the Prime down Fall Line chasing mates who are local. They'd usually drop me pretty easily. This time I was on them the whole way down.

    100% the difference was the bike. And that's coming off a 160mm f 150mm r Remedy.

    This weekend I ran my 27.5+ wheels and tyres and it's just ridiculous fun. And the climbing, it just get up everything.

    I'm hoping the love affair continues with this rig.

  22. #222
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    Does anyone change rear suspension settings when flipping the rear from high to low?
    Tried low for the first time (2 rides) and it just did not do it for me. I probably just like the higher setting for geo reasons, but if anyone has a setting tweak they like to do between high and low, I will give it a shot.

    Thanks
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  23. #223
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    What is it about the shock setting or ride you don't like?

    With mine from high to low I might check the sag, or dial in a click or 3 more / less low speed compression. Rebound I tend to leave alone.

    I leave mine in low but I tend not to ride in areas where pedal clearance is an issue.

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I remember my first ride on the Prime down Fall Line chasing mates who are local. They'd usually drop me pretty easily. This time I was on them the whole way down.

    100% the difference was the bike. And that's coming off a 160mm f 150mm r Remedy.

    This weekend I ran my 27.5+ wheels and tyres and it's just ridiculous fun. And the climbing, it just get up everything.

    I'm hoping the love affair continues with this rig.


    Hey Jon thats what I run, what tires are your running? I am on the Rekon 2.8 27.5 and cant imagine anything much better. I did not even enjoy mountian biking until I got the prime, I got it to make a electric bike out of it, but once I rode it I was hooked left it alone (probaly get another one to make electric as I can ride on my recovery days) , been upgrading ever since LOL such a joy to ride

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Yeah I've done Harcourt a couple times on my old trek. Trail 2 is great, and 11 is a stack of fun once you've put in the hard yards with the climb.

    Yeah, went with the 150mm fork, wheels are the Bontrager Line Comp off my Trek for now. Will run them into the ground and then see what I decide to do from there. Hope brakes and stem, raceface bars, gx eagle groupset.

    Absolutely loved the bike, but slight bummer that the shop who built it didn't do a good job on the gears and it was slipping all over the place. Get that sorted and I'll be a VERY happy man!
    My cassete loosened up on me that would cause slipping gears, also bent derailer caused mine to not shift proper. I am sure you probaly knew this though glad you are loving the new bike

  26. #226
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    I went with Bontrager XR4 but in 2.6" size. They are huge and I can't imagine running a tyre any larger. It might be a hair shorter than a 2.8" but even in low the BB is the same height as my Remedy in the high position.

    It works, and is excellent fun!

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    My cassete loosened up on me that would cause slipping gears, also bent derailer caused mine to not shift proper. I am sure you probaly knew this though glad you are loving the new bike
    Cheers, Dave,

    Turned out to be the b-screw was off. The shop had set it, but with the bike set for approx 23-25% sag - which was probably why it shifted OK when I first rode it, but once I realised it was meant to be around 30% (think I'm liking 30-32% - there's always a trail and climb switch on the shock for sustained climbs ) it stopped shifting properly. The mechanic thought that it was also possible the cable tension may have also been impacted by the heat shrink which may have pulled the tension a little after he'd sorted the drive train initially. Gears are sorted now, but unfortunately I'm waiting to hear back about why the cassette on my Bontrager hub is spinning in both directions...

  28. #228
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    Good to hear you've got that sorted.
    Regarding the freehub, is the wheel still within the warranty period?

    I've always found Trek to be pretty good on valid warranty here for me. Hopefully they side with you on this.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Good to hear you've got that sorted.
    Regarding the freehub, is the wheel still within the warranty period?

    I've always found Trek to be pretty good on valid warranty here for me. Hopefully they side with you on this.
    Yeah warranty will cover it - but decided I'll keep them as spares (heard a few stories of them breaking and the rims are pretty soft) and get some DT 350s laced to DT XM481s

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Yeah warranty will cover it - but decided I'll keep them as spares (heard a few stories of them breaking and the rims are pretty soft) and get some DT 350s laced to DT XM481s
    Cant go wrong with DT's star ratchet

  31. #231
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    Still loving this machine. Predictable, stable... two issues thus far:
    The Monarch Plus RC3 rear shock spilled its oil all over my van floor after only 4 months of use, it blew through the rebound knob. Got fixed under warranty, but not a fan of this shock.
    And the bike now has a wicked creak, which I suspect comes from the front shock mount, or seat post, not sure. I had similar creaks in my old 2013 Spitfire that I was never able to 100% resolve. Must be my bike mechanic skills. Going to ask a real one for advise.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-dec2-best-ride-2018-lost-lake.jpg

  32. #232
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    What don't you like about the shock? I like it better than the 34 that came on the front of mine... The shock just seems to work for me, has taken very little fiddling...

    The 34 has been better once I got some volume spacers in it, before it had bottomed out on a 2ft drop to flat. It has also developed a creek from the stanchions it sounds like on sharp impacts.... Going to talk to Jenson about the return process...

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by rclugnut View Post
    What don't you like about the shock? I like it better than the 34 that came on the front of mine... The shock just seems to work for me, has taken very little fiddling... ..
    No compression dial to fine tune compression, just the 3 position switch.
    It shouldn't fail after only 4 months of use.
    My old Fox Float CTD was more tunable and reliable.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
    Still loving this machine. Predictable, stable... two issues thus far:
    The Monarch Plus RC3 rear shock spilled its oil all over my van floor after only 4 months of use, it blew through the rebound knob. Got fixed under warranty, but not a fan of this shock.
    And the bike now has a wicked creak, which I suspect comes from the front shock mount, or seat post, not sure. I had similar creaks in my old 2013 Spitfire that I was never able to 100% resolve. Must be my bike mechanic skills. Going to ask a real one for advise.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I had creaking that seems to have come from the spacers on the handle bars/stem.. I spray them down with silcone and the creaking stops or gets way better. one day going to try one spacer there.

    But the creak is always terrible after a bike wash, then I spray it and seems to take it away for the most part

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
    No compression dial to fine tune compression, just the 3 position switch.
    It shouldn't fail after only 4 months of use.
    My old Fox Float CTD was more tunable and reliable.
    Can't argue there, I never felt the need to adjust the tune so I don't worry about it.

    What has lead me to the fork creaking is it's only on sharp impacts to the front end. I can lean on the bars, twist them any which way, and it only cracks when you slam the front end down, even if you're standing next to it and dropping it on the fork. We'll see what they say...

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Build pic as promised - taking it for its first hit out tomorrow at Harcourt.

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    Sweet ride. I've got a black 2016, and just love the texture of the ano finish. Glad you are getting some time in on this beast. In my experience, as you learn what the bike is capable of, it keeps getting better.

    Apparently with hubs, anything but the good ones just can't take clyde abuse, so good call on the DTs. Regarding wide bars, I may be in the minority, but all I can say is I tried them for a few months, but could never get on well with them. Good luck getting her dialed in and enjoy!

  37. #237
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    Here's my Limited Edition Prime. I'm 98kg and 180cm.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-mtbr.jpg

    Large Frame
    Fox 36 RC2 Grip2 160mm 90psi
    Fox Float X2 240 psi
    Renthal Carbon Cockpit with Industry Nine Stem
    Industry Nine EN310 Carbon Wheels
    X01 Eagle Drivetrain
    Code RSC Brakes with 203mm XT Rotors
    Bike Yoke Post 160mm
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5WT EXO+ and DHR2 2.4WT EXO+
    CushCore front and Rear
    Weight 32.5lb

    This bike is a weapon! Just came back from 2 days in Nelson, NZ riding Wairoa Gorge and some local trails. Over 4000m of descending over 35km. Loved the rocky, rotty, chundery trails. Rolled super fast on the smooth and jumped playfully off trail features.

    I went back to a Rune for a month or two but found it way too unstable compared to the Prime. So went back to the 29er.

    I run 20psi with the Cushcore and it grips super well!.

    Also pedals very well uphill. Not sure of my shock settings at the moment, but I run very little LSC and about 50% of the avaialble HSC.
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
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  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Here's my Limited Edition Prime. I'm 98kg and 180cm.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Large Frame
    Fox 36 RC2 Grip2 160mm 90psi
    Fox Float X2 240 psi
    Renthal Carbon Cockpit with Industry Nine Stem
    Industry Nine EN310 Carbon Wheels
    X01 Eagle Drivetrain
    Code RSC Brakes with 203mm XT Rotors
    Bike Yoke Post 160mm
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5WT EXO+ and DHR2 2.4WT EXO+
    CushCore front and Rear
    Weight 32.5lb

    This bike is a weapon! Just came back from 2 days in Nelson, NZ riding Wairoa Gorge and some local trails. Over 4000m of descending over 35km. Loved the rocky, rotty, chundery trails. Rolled super fast on the smooth and jumped playfully off trail features.

    I went back to a Rune for a month or two but found it way too unstable compared to the Prime. So went back to the 29er.

    I run 20psi with the Cushcore and it grips super well!.

    Also pedals very well uphill. Not sure of my shock settings at the moment, but I run very little LSC and about 50% of the avaialble HSC.
    Amazing build. Completely agree about how much of a weapon these Primes are!

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Sweet ride. I've got a black 2016, and just love the texture of the ano finish. Glad you are getting some time in on this beast. In my experience, as you learn what the bike is capable of, it keeps getting better.

    Apparently with hubs, anything but the good ones just can't take clyde abuse, so good call on the DTs. Regarding wide bars, I may be in the minority, but all I can say is I tried them for a few months, but could never get on well with them. Good luck getting her dialed in and enjoy!
    Cheers JACKL. Had my first hit out on the new wheels on Saturday and they were great - though the bontys weren't bad at all until I stripped them haha

    I'm beginning to get an idea on just how capable it is. Took it down a couple double blacks on the weekend, and while i was b-lining a lot of stuff, the b-lines are still pretty rowdy. Sections that used to scare me on the Trek Fuel became pretty "oh, was that it?", yet the bike is still pretty poppy and playful - loving it so far, and find myself loving it more every ride. I'm finally starting to get used to the wide bars too - I didn't like them much at first, but slowly getting used to them. I may still cut them back to 780cm, but we'll see how I go.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Here's my Limited Edition Prime. I'm 98kg and 180cm.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Large Frame
    Fox 36 RC2 Grip2 160mm 90psi
    Fox Float X2 240 psi
    Renthal Carbon Cockpit with Industry Nine Stem
    Industry Nine EN310 Carbon Wheels
    X01 Eagle Drivetrain
    Code RSC Brakes with 203mm XT Rotors
    Bike Yoke Post 160mm
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5WT EXO+ and DHR2 2.4WT EXO+
    CushCore front and Rear
    Weight 32.5lb

    This bike is a weapon! Just came back from 2 days in Nelson, NZ riding Wairoa Gorge and some local trails. Over 4000m of descending over 35km. Loved the rocky, rotty, chundery trails. Rolled super fast on the smooth and jumped playfully off trail features.

    I went back to a Rune for a month or two but found it way too unstable compared to the Prime. So went back to the 29er.

    I run 20psi with the Cushcore and it grips super well!.

    Also pedals very well uphill. Not sure of my shock settings at the moment, but I run very little LSC and about 50% of the avaialble HSC.
    Lovely build you have there and not a thing left to upgrade or change. 160mm forks are wonderful on this bike and the X2 is well worth the money for riders of our weight.

    I've been leaving the LSC and HSC fully open for a while and have only just dialled in 4 clicks of each. It's a little poppier but still comfortable and tracks the ground so very well.

    And I love that limited edition colourway. :^)

  41. #241
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    That's my experience coming from the Fuel too. The Prime just hits everything so well. I'm such a fanboi!

    Heaven help me if they make an XXL version of the Prime LT.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Here's my Limited Edition Prime. I'm 98kg and 180cm.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	MTBR.jpg 
Views:	114 
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ID:	1229033

    Large Frame
    Fox 36 RC2 Grip2 160mm 90psi
    Fox Float X2 240 psi
    Renthal Carbon Cockpit with Industry Nine Stem
    Industry Nine EN310 Carbon Wheels
    X01 Eagle Drivetrain
    Code RSC Brakes with 203mm XT Rotors
    Bike Yoke Post 160mm
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5WT EXO+ and DHR2 2.4WT EXO+
    CushCore front and Rear
    Weight 32.5lb

    This bike is a weapon! Just came back from 2 days in Nelson, NZ riding Wairoa Gorge and some local trails. Over 4000m of descending over 35km. Loved the rocky, rotty, chundery trails. Rolled super fast on the smooth and jumped playfully off trail features.

    I went back to a Rune for a month or two but found it way too unstable compared to the Prime. So went back to the 29er.

    I run 20psi with the Cushcore and it grips super well!.

    Also pedals very well uphill. Not sure of my shock settings at the moment, but I run very little LSC and about 50% of the avaialble HSC.
    I generally like understated graphics, but that blue and yellow is stunning. I think that might be my favorite color combo of all model year Primes (not counting stealth or raw, which I gravitate to).

    Just did a web search for images of Nelson, NZ Wairoa Gorge. Looks amazing, and plenty knarly. I'd want the big wheels there for sure. If you have pics, maybe throw a few up. Long hike from the States, but I will put it on my bucket list.

  43. #243
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    Will have this finished by spring I hope, 2015; but the pricetag and reach suited me better.

    Oh and that blue light is what it currently looks like outside, not due to potato-cam.

  44. #244
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    Those of you heavier guys running X2´s do you have problems with bottom outs? How many spacers do you use?

    240psi for around 100kg is much pressure... I´m a little bit worried because of the big air chamber... My old nomad was very progressive but with the X2 climbing was hell since it uses to much sag with the weightshift to the back. Otherwise it was the best shock I ever used. Trying to decide taking the risk with the X2 or if I should better try the DPX2 with smaller chamber and more built in progression.

  45. #245
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    So I'm pretty excited to build this up!

    Going from a Phantom to the Prime and also stepping up to an xl frame from a large. It almost feels like a cop out to put my old parts on a frame with this paint job. My last decision is if I want to run 29x2.4 or get some new wheels and try 27.5x2.8. The rest of the build will most likely be shimano 1x11 and a DVO diamond boost up front set at 150mm.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  46. #246
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    I'd highly suggest that if you already have the 29" wheels & tyres that you give them a go, then decide if you want to give B+ a go. Personally, I think you're in for a BIG surprise in just how different the Prime feels compared to the Phantom, 2 pretty similar bikes geo wise on paper, but so very different in person, Keith did an excellent job of making it fairly easy to decide which bike to pick if you have both. Only new thing you should "need" to purchase is a shorter stem, unless the Large really was the wrong size for you and small.

    Quote Originally Posted by neil_240 View Post
    So I'm pretty excited to build this up!

    Going from a Phantom to the Prime and also stepping up to an xl frame from a large. It almost feels like a cop out to put my old parts on a frame with this paint job. My last decision is if I want to run 29x2.4 or get some new wheels and try 27.5x2.8. The rest of the build will most likely be shimano 1x11 and a DVO diamond boost up front set at 150mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  47. #247
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    I'm 100kgs or there about ready to ride. Running the X2 and it would use all available travel. It would bottom out VERY lightly but there's been an issue with mine whilst it's warrantied so I'm running the stock Rockshox currently.

    I was at about 230psi and all the volume spacers I could use. It was at 30% sag and I only ran a couple of clicks of LSC and HSC.

    Once my X2 comes back I'll be able to update you further but I loved it whilst it was performing properly. No harsh bottom outs and it felt like plenty of travel and support.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I'm 100kgs or there about ready to ride. Running the X2 and it would use all available travel. It would bottom out VERY lightly but there's been an issue with mine whilst it's warrantied so I'm running the stock Rockshox currently.

    I was at about 230psi and all the volume spacers I could use. It was at 30% sag and I only ran a couple of clicks of LSC and HSC.

    Once my X2 comes back I'll be able to update you further but I loved it whilst it was performing properly. No harsh bottom outs and it felt like plenty of travel and support.
    Jon, out of interest, what PSI are you running in the monarch RC3 plus?

  49. #249
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    I've run both 29x 2.4" on 30mm internal width as well as 27.5x2.6" on 35mm internal width wheels and there is a marked difference. The 2.6" tyres are Bontrager and huge!

    Overall I prefer 29" as the nose is higher and the rollover feels unbeatable.

    At 27.5x 2.6" it's more agile and a different kind of fun. The grip is beyond what I've ever seen and it's also more comfortable too.

    I notice the reduced roll over and the weight bias onto the nose helps grip a touch but feels less invulnerable if that makes sense.

    1m 93cm height so there is that to consider too. Either way is fun and I haven't had to use the high position either.. it works well at either height with just the odd pedal strike compared to absolutely none on 29".

    It's staying at 27.5 whilst my 29" wheels are warrantied amd I'm not regretting it.

    Hope that helps a little in your decision making.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    I've run both 29x 2.4" on 30mm internal width as well as 27.5x2.6" on 35mm internal width wheels and there is a marked difference. The 2.6" tyres are Bontrager and huge!
    Do you ride the 27.5 with a 29er Fork? Do you mind taking pictures of your "small wheels" setup, especially front of the fork?

  51. #251
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    Sorry for the slow reply, I had to check on the bike.its at 195psi.

    Feels very supple and smooth actually. I never ran the RS Monarch Plus on it as I had the X2 waiting for the build. It's more active but lovely and smooth.

  52. #252
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    Yup, I run the same fork. 29 Lyrik RCT3.
    I'll take a photo of the set up and post when I get a moment. I find uploading from the phone causes headaches.

  53. #253
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    Do you ride the 27.5 with a 29er Fork?

    I also run the same fork on 27.5--2.8 and 29 the fork I run is a fox 34 came with the bike from jenson

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Sorry for the slow reply, I had to check on the bike.its at 195psi.

    Feels very supple and smooth actually. I never ran the RS Monarch Plus on it as I had the X2 waiting for the build. It's more active but lovely and smooth.
    Cool - I'm around the mark then - think I'm running about 180 for approx 32% sag - seems to descend a little better and I'm rarely bottoming it out. I do find myself reaching for the climb switch on long smooth climbs at that setting as theres a little bob - but it rides so well the rest of the time like that its a good trade off.

    I thought I might need to upgrade the monarch plus when I bought the frame, and the X2 was on the list, but I've been pretty happy with the monarch plus so far!

  55. #255
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    Banshee Prime - Monster edition

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190117_210902.jpg2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190117_210919.jpg2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190117_210929.jpg2018+ Banshee Prime thread-banshee-275-plus-2-point-6.jpg

    Here's some pictures of the Bontrager 2.6 tyres on the Hope 35w wheels.
    Hope this helps. (No pun intended!)

    Thanks,

  56. #256
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    The Monarch+ is actually a very good shock. It's very plush I find on the bike and resists bottom out well. It does bob more than the X2 for sure but the 3 position lever quells much of this.

    The X2 just doesn't bob at all though and when it works well is sublime. I'm finding that the Monarch+ is opening up and feels better each ride. I have it bang on at 14mm travel on both bikes to be sure of 30% sag.

    Either way you're on a winner. :^)

  57. #257
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    What's the recommended fork travel and offset for the Prime these days? 2015 if it matters.

  58. #258
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    I believe it depends on your ride location and goals / preferences. Also, offset is less important than travel, for me at least.

    140mm = nimble, agile and a bias towards climbing. Still very capable and composed in descending.

    150mm = sweet spot, feels good and balanced for most riding demands and preferences.

    160mm = still am exceptional climbing and balanced bike but biased to unrelenting performance downhill.

    I'm running 160mm and love it. If starting again I'd run 150mm but 10mm is next to nothing once sag is taken into account.

    I tried 140mm and as nice as it was in terms of intimacy and agility, I preferred the higher nose / stack at 160mm as well as the outstanding ride everywhere. Descending is just delightful.
    160mm also meant I could run 27.5x 2.6" tyres without changing the high / low setting.

    46mm offset and am super happy with it.


    Good luck with your choice!

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    What's the recommended fork travel and offset for the Prime these days? 2015 if it matters.
    I'm running a Fox 36mm at 150mm with 51mm offest and love it.

    I went this was based of Keith @ Banshee's travel recommendation (I already had the Fox 36 in 51mm). He and Jon said the same thing: its the sweet spot for balancing descending and climbing back up - I've taken it to dh shuttle days and didn't feel like I needed the extra 10mm. I've also done afternoons with stacks of climbing (1000m+) and its been a pleasure. Well, as much of a pleasure as climbing ever is

  60. #260
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    It all depends on what your riding is like, if it's heavily DH focused, then I'd say 150-160mm, if it's wider based, Trail, DH etc, where climbing is important, then 140-150mm, depending on the fork and the A2C. As to the offset, can't imagine that through some miracle that rec has changed without a geometry change I'm quite happy with mine setup running a 140mm F34 in the middle position, works well climbing and descending and also riding more rolling/pedally sections.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    What's the recommended fork travel and offset for the Prime these days? 2015 if it matters.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  61. #261
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    Curious question..
    What would happen if one fit the shock, linkage and rear triangle from a Rune to a Prime?

    Would it even fit? Would you get close to the travel of the Rune?
    Using long drop outs would 29" fit?

    I'd love to know if anyone has ever tried it...

  62. #262
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    I can say for sure that NO it would not fit 29" wheels, the chainstays on the 29ers are longer than the 26"/650B bikes and the 26"/650B bikes use the long drop outs to make them fit 650B, as to the other stuff, not sure if things would line up.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Curious question..
    What would happen if one fit the shock, linkage and rear triangle from a Rune to a Prime?

    Would it even fit? Would you get close to the travel of the Rune?
    Using long drop outs would 29" fit?

    I'd love to know if anyone has ever tried it...
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Curious question..
    What would happen if one fit the shock, linkage and rear triangle from a Rune to a Prime?

    Would it even fit? Would you get close to the travel of the Rune?
    Using long drop outs would 29" fit?

    I'd love to know if anyone has ever tried it...
    Your chainstays would catch on fire. Duh!

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Curious question..
    What would happen if one fit the shock, linkage and rear triangle from a Rune to a Prime?

    Would it even fit? Would you get close to the travel of the Rune?
    Using long drop outs would 29" fit?

    I'd love to know if anyone has ever tried it...
    If you want complete lego bikes, GG is the brand for you https://ridegg.com/

    Haha, that is an interesting question though, but it seems LyNx is on point that the compact Rune triangle is unlikely to fit our wagon wheels....

  65. #265
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    Thank you for the replies in regards to the offset, will look into it some more since I still got 3,5 months of snow to deal with.


    For $166 from CRC I can live with it for a while, crossing my fingers it lasts the season. Means I can spend more on a fork.
    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-0.jpg

  66. #266
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    Wow there is some great info in this thread, I came looking for shock recommendations since I finally exploded the cane creek that came with my frameset, looks like the x2 is a good pairing, I might give one a try. Also those blue frames look awesome!

    Running a fox 36 in the front that I just dropped from 160 to 150, I have some steep punchy climbs on my local trails and the 160 made it wander way to much.

    I started with 27.5+ on my prime for the first few months of owning this frame, and now after having this bike for well over a year my 29 x 2.6 teravails hardly ever come off.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img_2684.jpg

  67. #267
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    Bike was running great today! Excited to drop the fork to 150 and see how it does.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal Bob View Post
    Wow there is some great info in this thread, I came looking for shock recommendations since I finally exploded the cane creek that came with my frameset, looks like the x2 is a good pairing, I might give one a try. Also those blue frames look awesome!
    Did you consider DVO Topaz? Some good reviews around here. Nice guys to deal with, too.

    Nice bike, btw

  69. #269
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    A mate had a topaz on his giant reign and he was super impressed with the topaz. Super easy to work with too

  70. #270
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    anybody else notice a very small notch like feeling on the rock shock around 10% - 15% range when pusing down the saddle. Its not even close to whear sag kicks in and can only be felt on the initial push down of the seat. I just noticed this, I have read in a few places its normal??? never noticed it before though

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    anybody else notice a very small notch like feeling on the rock shock around 10% - 15% range when pusing down the saddle. Its not even close to whear sag kicks in and can only be felt on the initial push down of the seat. I just noticed this, I have read in a few places its normal??? never noticed it before though
    If it's a Monarch, yes. This is the point where the connection between positive and negative chamber become connected through a port.

  72. #272
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    My Monarch Plus doesn't do that at all. The only time I've had that occur on a shock is when it needs a service. Granted, this has been on Fox.

    How many riding hours has the shock had since new / last service?

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    My Monarch Plus doesn't do that at all. The only time I've had that occur on a shock is when it needs a service. Granted, this has been on Fox.

    How many riding hours has the shock had since new / last service?
    My Monarch does this even fresh serviced. It is pretty common for Monarchs. Mine is a Plus Debonair.

  74. #274
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    That I did not know. Mine hasn't had many hours on it but hasn't felt notchy at all.

    If, "they're all like that sir", is there anything that can be done to improve / remove it?

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    That I did not know. Mine hasn't had many hours on it but hasn't felt notchy at all.

    If, "they're all like that sir", is there anything that can be done to improve / remove it?
    If it is really bad, clean your aircan and especially the ports (compressed air helps). Do only use the specified amount of oil and just a tiny bit of grease for the seals.
    If the ports are plugged with grease it messed up the whole damping and makes you think there is air in the damping circuit.

  76. #276
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    Also check that the notch is not just your derailleur clutch slipping and engaging. Disengage derailleur and check if it still does it.
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  77. #277
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    great feed back thank you guys.

  78. #278
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    I actually had a 2017 rune for a couple months that had a topaz, it felt pretty good.
    Last edited by Pedal Bob; 02-10-2019 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Updated info

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal Bob View Post
    Wow there is some great info in this thread, I came looking for shock recommendations since I finally exploded the cane creek that came with my frameset, looks like the x2 is a good pairing, I might give one a try. Also those blue frames look awesome!
    Another vote here for the DVO Topaz. I liked it much more than the stock Monarch - dramatically more sensitive in the first part of travel, but no hard bottom-out.

  80. #280
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    I am going to try the fox float dpx2 anyone know the bushing size??

    I was told 40x8.....and 20x8 but 19.5x8 might work

    I am new to this so just checking if anyone could offer some advice?

    thanks

  81. #281
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    Yes, 8x40mm and 8x20mm. Fox has 8x20mm hardware now which is ideal. Part number 803-03-236.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Yes, 8x40mm and 8x20mm. Fox has 8x20mm hardware now which is ideal. Part number 803-03-236.
    thank you sir

  83. #283
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    I ended up ordering a topaz from dirt merchant yesterday, it was pretty good on the rune frame that I had for a few months, and I didn’t adjust it at all, so I’m sure it will be good for the prime. My friend had issues with his topaz but he let me know it was because he damaged the bladder by pumping it up from the purge port! I’ve only seen great things about reliability from other threads, and in his case it was misuse.

    I’ll let you know how it works out.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal Bob View Post
    I ended up ordering a topaz from dirt merchant yesterday, it was pretty good on the rune frame that I had for a few months, and I didn’t adjust it at all, so I’m sure it will be good for the prime. My friend had issues with his topaz but he let me know it was because he damaged the bladder by pumping it up from the purge port! I’ve only seen great things about reliability from other threads, and in his case it was misuse.

    I’ll let you know how it works out.
    I've been running a Topaz on my prime all fall and winter. It's truly a fantastic shock on this bike. Just for setup reference: I ended up with 1 pos ring and 2 neg rings w/ 200psi in the bladder. I'm about 215 with gear. The neg rings help with the initial stroke support (pedal bob) and the bladder pressure creates more support and pop over the entire stroke. Going up to 200 on the bladder really made the bike come 'alive'. It went from a planted feel to a playful pump and jump feel without ruining the small bump sensitivity. I wish I had one of these shocks a long time ago. Puts the CC stuff to shame.

  85. #285
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    Finally built.

    Me 6'3" 250lb
    2017 Banshee Prime XL w/ reach adjust headset
    Fox DPX2 (eBayed from a Hightower LT)
    Rock Shox Yari w/ 2019 Lyrik 150mm air shaft
    XT shifters/ der w/ XX1 cassette
    Race Face Aeffect 165 cranks w/ 30t Wolf Tooth oval ring
    Zee brakes 203f 180r
    DT 350 hubs w/ Ibis 941 rims
    Maxxis DHF 29X2.6 tires
    OneUp 170mm dropper post

    Head angle is at 66 with a BB height of 13.7 in high position.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190221_155421.jpg
    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190221_155451.jpg
    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-20190221_155529.jpg

  86. #286
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    Looking good. I'm keen to hear what you think of the 2.6" tyres on 29". I tried it and found it very draggy on the rear but loved the front.

    Good choice on the DPX2, I hear good things about it.

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    Finally built.

    Me 6'3" 250lb
    2017 Banshee Prime XL w/ reach adjust headset
    Fox DPX2 (eBayed from a Hightower LT)
    Rock Shox Yari w/ 2019 Lyrik 150mm air shaft
    XT shifters/ der w/ XX1 cassette
    Race Face Aeffect 165 cranks w/ 30t Wolf Tooth oval ring
    Zee brakes 203f 180r
    DT 350 hubs w/ Ibis 941 rims
    Maxxis DHF 29X2.6 tires
    OneUp 170mm dropper post

    Head angle is at 66 with a BB height of 13.7 in high position.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    those are some beefy tires, you have the long wheel base or short wheel base? I have the rekon 2.6 on mine currently and dont think they look near as wide,ight be knobs or the width of rim, but I am curios to know if you got those bad boys on the short wheel base

  88. #288
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    They are on the short wheelbase and the side knobs barely clear the drive side vertical brace. They can stretch a bit wider but if they stretch any taller it may not work.

  89. #289
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    I'm 195 lbs. loaded running 235 PSI on my DPX2, no volume spacers, 3 clicks low speed. 15.5 sag.Enjoy

  90. #290
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    Anyone here running a coil on their prime? Thinking of going that way as my Monarch RC3 Plus is destroyed. Any other shock recommendations? I know Jon loves his X2 (also considering this) and there was a recent vote for a topaz (the only other air shock I'm considering), but had wondered if anyone was getting good results with a coil.

    I'm leaning towards a Fox DHX2 with a MRP progressive coil

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal Bob View Post
    I ended up ordering a topaz from dirt merchant yesterday, it was pretty good on the rune frame that I had for a few months, and I didn’t adjust it at all, so I’m sure it will be good for the prime. My friend had issues with his topaz but he let me know it was because he damaged the bladder by pumping it up from the purge port! I’ve only seen great things about reliability from other threads, and in his case it was misuse.

    I’ll let you know how it works out.
    Any updates with your topaz? It's pretty high on my list now that I'm looking for a new shocks

  92. #292
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    Any tips for building up the frame?
    Waiting for my fork to return from service and I got everything ready. Will use some leftover AMS protection, scratches won't keep me up at night.

    Frame: Prime in medium
    Fork: Pike 140mm, 51mm offset, MRP Ramp cartridge + luftkappe.
    Shock: CC DB Inline (the old untrustworthy one, but it was cheap)
    Seatpost: Oneup 170mm. Will have to lower it somewhat using a shim. Wolftooth lever for Magura brake.

    Headset: Slamset upper and nukeproof lower
    Handlebar: RF Sixxc
    Stem: RF Atlas 40mm

    Crank: XTR trail 165mm
    Derailleur: XT 11spd
    Cassette: Sunrace 11-46
    Brakes: Magura MT8 rear MT5 front.
    Rotors: Magura Storm 180mm
    Wheelset: Nukeproof Horizon. Quite nice wheelset, very loud hubs.

  93. #293
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    Solid choices on your build. I really feel the set up depends on where you're riding and how. Personally I likes the 140mm f set up but needed it a little higher and slacker for my tastes.

    And it rides so very well in low. As you're using 165mm cranks you can go low at 140mm front and not sweat pedal strikes.

    And with the One Up post, use a zip tie at the cable joining the post. The rubber ring works but is not very stable I found when installing it. A small / narrow zip tie clipped neat worked a treat.

    Looking forward to seeing the photos.

  94. #294
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    Yup. Use grease where you're sposed to, torque it all up real good, go ride and enjoy yourself Seriously, it's a BAnshee, it's alloy, don't need to worry about scratches and $hit. Please report back on an on-going basis on those wheels, curious if they've fixed their fvcked up freehub design of previous generations that they wouldn't deal/acknowledge warranty wise

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Any tips for building up the frame?
    Waiting for my fork to return from service and I got everything ready. Will use some leftover AMS protection, scratches won't keep me up at night...................Wheelset: Nukeproof Horizon. Quite nice wheelset, very loud hubs.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Anyone here running a coil on their prime? Thinking of going that way as my Monarch RC3 Plus is destroyed. Any other shock recommendations? I know Jon loves his X2 (also considering this) and there was a recent vote for a topaz (the only other air shock I'm considering), but had wondered if anyone was getting good results with a coil.

    I'm leaning towards a Fox DHX2 with a MRP progressive coil
    Put a DVO Topaz in my Spitfire, had a Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair before. Topaz totally transformed the bike. Hilarious traction in corners. No more hanging up / spiking in root sections. Brilliant climb mode and jumping feels more predictable (no more kicks from the back at the lip). Plus, you can modify your spring curve using volume spacers easily.

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Anyone here running a coil on their prime? Thinking of going that way as my Monarch RC3 Plus is destroyed. Any other shock recommendations? I know Jon loves his X2 (also considering this) and there was a recent vote for a topaz (the only other air shock I'm considering), but had wondered if anyone was getting good results with a coil.

    I'm leaning towards a Fox DHX2 with a MRP progressive coil
    In the process of building up a brand new Prime for spring.

    DVO Diamond 150mm up front.

    Canecreek DB coil CS shock for the rear. I wanted the Climb Switch on the spring to tweak the settings easily. I have used canecreek air shocks before and like how their climb switch works much better then a lockout. So decided to get a coil with that.

    I looked at the Fox coil as well and also MRP. The new MRP springs looked interesting.

    Unfortunately given the weather here in Canada right now will be awhile before I can actually ride it.

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  97. #297
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    Cheers guys. RS ended up offering a crazy cheap monarch plus rc3 debonair so I went that path. Still not sure on the reliability of it, but will see how it goes. DVO will be the go if it needs replacing
    Last edited by michael.c; 03-16-2019 at 10:31 PM.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Solid choices on your build. I really feel the set up depends on where you're riding and how. Personally I likes the 140mm f set up but needed it a little higher and slacker for my tastes.

    And it rides so very well in low. As you're using 165mm cranks you can go low at 140mm front and not sweat pedal strikes.

    And with the One Up post, use a zip tie at the cable joining the post. The rubber ring works but is not very stable I found when installing it. A small / narrow zip tie clipped neat worked a treat.

    Looking forward to seeing the photos.
    140 is actually the longest setting that'll allow the mrp and luftkappe to work together so I'm stuck with it for now, but I mostly ride trails so it should suit me just fine I hope.

    The tip about the ziptie I will definitely go with, the o-ring solution seems kind of flimsy.

    Just based on the mockup I might not have to use a shim at all which is good news. With the post all the way down the logo lined up perfectly, which is ofcourse what all bikers should strive for.





    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yup. Use grease where you're sposed to, torque it all up real good, go ride and enjoy yourself Seriously, it's a BAnshee, it's alloy, don't need to worry about scratches and $hit. Please report back on an on-going basis on those wheels, curious if they've fixed their fvcked up freehub design of previous generations that they wouldn't deal/acknowledge warranty wise
    Will do, where the problems you know about for the newest version of Horizons? I believe these ones launched last year. I ran them with a singlespeed cog on my Honzo so they've had their fair share of rough use already. If you squint you'll even see the cog still on there in the pic, I only had time to put a couple of parts together today.

  99. #299
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    Curious for opinions on 29" or 27 .5 I'm currently running 29" 2.6 and tossing up the idea of 27.5" interested in feel difference and climbing thanks guys

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobike200 View Post
    Curious for opinions on 29" or 27 .5 I'm currently running 29" 2.6 and tossing up the idea of 27.5" interested in feel difference and climbing thanks guys
    I've run mine with both wheel sizes, and with 2.6" front and rear in both configurations too. They're both very good, the 27.5 is predictably more agile and the 29 better for roll over and general trail manners.
    I've found the 2.6 rear in 29" to bed VERY draggy and slow. More so than 27.5 in the same tyre (Bontrager XR4).

    It's worth trying and if you want a slightly different experience it does make the bike a changed version of itself.

    My preference, and how I have the bike set up is 29" with 2.6f and 2.4". It climbs better in almost all situations.
    Wheels are Nukeproof Horizons 29, and Hope 35w 27.5 on Pro 4 hubs.

    Take a look at some of my earlier posts for photos.

  101. #301
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    I'm running NN right now and I'm not a fan with them on this setup...at page one a member had front end washouts as this has been a issue for me to I've messed with shock made a big difference I'm just not sure if its that big of a difference to drop money on another wheelset.... Down hill it rips but my main focus is climbing now

  102. #302
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    It's not where I would spend extra $$$ on the bike if I were to do it again. It's superb everywhere so I'd get the set up right on 29.

    Tyre choice is very important as you know.
    What's making you consider 27.5?
    Or more to the point, what's not completely right for you on it at the moment?

  103. #303
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    Honestly just a matter of me wondering if I'm missing out lol. I find it to be a tank going up hill compared to previous bikes I've owned I'm going to try different tires I think and see what happens...

  104. #304
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    What tires you rollin

  105. #305
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    Unless you've got lead wheels or 180mm forks on it that's very strange. Mine is not light at all and indeed far heavier than my Trek Fuel EX 9.9 which was carbon everything and 120mm / 140mm travel (overforked).

    The Prime comfortably and comprehensively out climbs the Fuel everywhere, and is in a different league on descending.

    Presuming your shock is fine and set up at the correct sag then tyre choice and gearing set up must be the culprit. 27.5 spins up more easily but it's marginal and you give up benefits elsewhere.

    Avoid the temptation of fat tyres with heavy tread on the rear. You'll find the benefits are limited and the penalty (for me at least) high and ever present.

  106. #306
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    Rear shock was a issue I had a dvo jade which was fun but so inefficient so I got double barrel for now and I do have fat tires now gonna size down. Love the feel of the bike so much thanks for you info

  107. #307
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    Any reason I shouldn't route the rear brake along the toptube?

    Since I'm re-using most of the parts I'll have to look into getting a new hose next time I service the brakes as this one might be a tad short for the downtube. This MT8 is on it's fifth bike

  108. #308
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    I didn't think there were guides on the underside of the top tube? Personally I would avoid it but if it works and doesn't snag under compression, why not?

  109. #309
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    No snags or anything, just works out better with the current cablelength so I guess I'll give it a go before spending money on new hosing. I have a nib 2015 frame so there are still guides on the toptube.

    All the parts are installed, weighs in at 14kg on the dot [30.8lbs], same weight as my steel Honzo so that's quite acceptable.
    Last edited by Vegard; 04-08-2019 at 02:57 AM.

  110. #310
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    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-2019-04-28-15.32.34-copy.jpg

    Just finished my Phantom to Prime frame transplant and had the first 3 days or riding. Thanks for all the help and advice.

    I went from a L 2014 Phantom with 50mm stem to an XL 2017 Prime with 35mm stem. I'm only 6ft (34" inside leg, +3 ape) but I'm so glad I did. The bike fits much better, feel more planted downhill, climbs better and I haven't noticed any issues with switchbacks. All round win so far.

    I started in high setting, didn't feel quite right, dropped to low, felt better but rock strikes to the bash ring increased (lots of big rock tech on some of my local routes). Put it back in high, popped a -1deg headset in. Perfect!

    Reach is now measuring 478, BB is essentially where it was in high, HA is measuring 66deg. Riding feels centred between the wheels, going down the longer reach enables me to get my weight forward but puts it through the fork into front wheel (rather than over it like the Phantom did). Climbing I'm able to run the saddle more centred on the rails so weight is further forward and chest feels less cramped than on the Phantom. All seems to work better for me at any rate.

    So, if Banshee are listening , my recommendation for the next prime is to stick an inch on the TT and knock a degree off the HA for the large (but leave the BB where it is). I'm 6ft, I should be riding a L not XL!

    Now just need to save for a new drive train to replace the 2x9 and get my chainline spacing issues sorted (see other thread) and longer stroke dropper to make the most of the extra fun!

  111. #311
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    Well done on getting it built up. It's such a fun and versatile bike. Looking forward to seeing pictures and more ride reports!

  112. #312
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    Got to work a little on the cables, final seat position and handlebar width but other than that it's done. First shakedown ride to the gym and back went quite well

    Yes that's snow.

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidlaw View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2019-04-28 15.32.34 copy.jpg 
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    So, if Banshee are listening , my recommendation for the next prime is to stick an inch on the TT and knock a degree off the HA for the large (but leave the BB where it is). I'm 6ft, I should be riding a L
    I feel exactly the same way. 5’11 on a L Spitty. I was actually looking at the XL Prime to get the longer reach. An extra inch would be perfect.



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  114. #314
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    Spam: Selling my large Prime.

    Price Reduction!!

    https://www.pinkbike.com/u/blcman/buysell
    Last edited by blcman; 05-03-2019 at 03:31 PM.
    2017 Banshee Prime
    2017 Niner Rip 9 RDO Pushed Version!
    2015 Ibis HD3 w/ Push ASC3
    2014 Knolly Podium

  115. #315
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    Who's blackmailed you into selling? :^(

  116. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Who's blackmailed you into selling? :^(
    Not being blackmailed! lol
    Being old and weak I can feel the couple of extra pounds in the frame. I really love the geo and the KS suspension but want a lighter bike (who doesn't). I bought it to be my poor man Ripmo and it works for that but now I'm eyeing the new Niner Rip 9 RDO.
    2017 Banshee Prime
    2017 Niner Rip 9 RDO Pushed Version!
    2015 Ibis HD3 w/ Push ASC3
    2014 Knolly Podium

  117. #317
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    Prime XL vs Pole Evolink 158 XL2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img-20190504-wa0060.jpg

  118. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim0791 View Post
    Prime XL vs Pole Evolink 158 XLClick image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-20190504-WA0060.jpg 
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    That would be an interesting comparison to read.

  119. #319
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    Ah, I get that. Mine's a brute really and it feels hefty when putting it on and taking it off the car roof. When riding it however it's just wonderful. I'd like a lighter bike too but I don't know if it'll ride as well. Good luck with your search on the Niner, they look lovely!

  120. #320
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    It'd be great to hear about the differences between those two. Pole certainly have some interesting geo elements about them.

    The Prime still delivered in spades. I hit up a new location this weekend with some rowdy trails, steep, rocky, and gap jumps, drops and flow into the mix. Real Candyland. All situations, the Prime was just imperious, everywhere. Even the climbing.

  121. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim0791 View Post
    Prime XL vs Pole Evolink 158 XLClick image for larger version. 

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    Side by side review time!!!


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  122. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    It'd be great to hear about the differences between those two. Pole certainly have some interesting geo elements about them.

    The Prime still delivered in spades. I hit up a new location this weekend with some rowdy trails, steep, rocky, and gap jumps, drops and flow into the mix. Real Candyland. All situations, the Prime was just imperious, everywhere. Even the climbing.
    Care to share this location (assuming you're still VIC, AUS)? Sounds like my kind of jam!

  123. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Ah, I get that. Mine's a brute really and it feels hefty when putting it on and taking it off the car roof. When riding it however it's just wonderful. I'd like a lighter bike too but I don't know if it'll ride as well. Good luck with your search on the Niner, they look lovely!
    Agree with this 100% - definitely notice the weight putting it on the roof, but once riding, never feels heavy to me. Did a 50km ride with approx 1,200m elevation (but approx 2000m descending!) a couple weeks back on it and it was pretty much perfect!

  124. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Ah, I get that. Mine's a brute really and it feels hefty when putting it on and taking it off the car roof. When riding it however it's just wonderful. I'd like a lighter bike too but I don't know if it'll ride as well. Good luck with your search on the Niner, they look lovely!
    Somewhat agree. I've never ridden a "light" bike, and at 35lbs with tube and pump (riding weight), this Prime is no different. Pedaled it 64mi/11k ft last Saturday to 13th place finish in a big MTB race locally. She can scoot no doubt there!

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  125. #325
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    How well do you know Redhill?

  126. #326
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    It's possible that lighter wheels might make a positive difference but then it's only a few hundred grams and whilst it's rotational weight I really think it might not be worth the bother.

    I've a set of light trail carbon ones I used to run. They are good for ~2.3" tyres and I might test them. They're about 600gr lighter all in but the narrow internal width might ruin it.

    Either way, the Prime still rocks my world!

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    How well do you know Redhill?
    Well enough to know about Crusher and have ridden Eaton's Cutting once, but not well enough to know my way around Eaton's. Also heard there's another good track over near Charlottes

  128. #328
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    That's the spot. Spent some time there this weekend just gone and it's superb fun. Not sure how many trails there are there but we did 4 runs top to bottom and each was different.

    Charlotte's is great fun too, I know some locals there who might know the names of others.
    Even Wombat, Rockstar, Fall Line and Pins are good fun (not Pins in the wet) but I found EC to be that much better.

    Aside from that, Harcourt is good but from SE Melbourne I'd not travel there over Redhill.
    Last edited by JonJones; 05-08-2019 at 02:17 PM.

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Somewhat agree. I've never ridden a "light" bike, and at 35lbs with tube and pump (riding weight), this Prime is no different. Pedaled it 64mi/11k ft last Saturday to 13th place finish in a big MTB race locally. She can scoot no doubt there!

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    My buddy did that race (pmbar) you know Robert Duggan by chance?? I think he did the coed team or something like that they got third place.

  130. #330
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    Yeah I'll have to go back and check out Eatons again - I've heard good things and some of those smaller to mid size jumps look fun (there are some HUGE ones in there). Just hard to find your way around - its a bloody rabbit warren in there haha

  131. #331
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    Yep, there a 30foot one which we took the B line on, only to be heckled mercilessly by trail rats with an average age of 17yrs. Going to work on Monday isn't something they need to concern themselves with apparently. :^)

    I hit some of them which was great fun. Definitely going there again to learn the place properly. The climbing isn't even that bad..

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    It's possible that lighter wheels might make a positive difference but then it's only a few hundred grams and whilst it's rotational weight I really think it might not be worth the bother.

    I've a set of light trail carbon ones I used to run. They are good for ~2.3" tyres and I might test them. They're about 600gr lighter all in but the narrow internal width might ruin it.

    Either way, the Prime still rocks my world!
    You can get good quality trailduro alu wheelsets in the 1650g range which won't break the bank. IMHO changing wheelset to something lighter is a night and day difference.

    Some examples:
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...heelset-740029

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...heelset-796008

  133. #333
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    Nice, thanks for the links. I'll see what it feels like with the lighter wheels I have and then make a decision. Ideally I'd have something with similar width, just lighter. Certainly doesn't have to be carbon which helps on the wallet.

  134. #334
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    Is it possible to boost the rear on a 2015 Prime? Didn't see that dropout option on their site.

    Climbs alot better than expected, but I want some lighter wheels

  135. #335
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    They only made the 148x12 drop outs for the V1 in the Long/650B version, so if you're happy with about a CM longer CS, then there ya go. Another option would be the 150x12 drop outs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Is it possible to boost the rear on a 2015 Prime? Didn't see that dropout option on their site.

    Climbs alot better than expected, but I want some lighter wheels
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  136. #336
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    anyone have a recommendations on a good chain guide for the prime? one ring up front

    thanks

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    anyone have a recommendations on a good chain guide for the prime? one ring up front

    thanks

    This is what I'm running on my 2018 Prime, it works great.


    https://can.oneupcomponents.com/products/chainguide-s3

  138. #338
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    thanks man

  139. #339
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    I've got one of these and it does the trick:

    https://mrpbike.com/products/1x-v3-alloy

    Would probably have gone the MRP AMg (has a bash guard too) if I didn't already have this one lying around from my previous bike

  140. #340
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    Nice thank you Michael

  141. #341
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    https://forums.mtbr.com/asset.php?fi...2&d=1561323264

    can anybody help me? what is this part and whear would I order it from? it just broke on me today when putting the wheel back on, and I usually take my stuff to the bike shop, but I think I am going to try to start learning how to work on them, so any help would be much appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-hanger.jpg  


  142. #342
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    Definitely recommend the one up chainguide. That works very well.
    I've also run the Praxis Works on my Remedy without issue..

  143. #343
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    That just looks like a compact drop out?
    Does the retailer you bought it from not sell them?

    How on earth did that happen?

  144. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    That just looks like a compact drop out?
    Does the retailer you bought it from not sell them?

    How on earth did that happen?
    Nope Jenson is out of stock, I cant seem to find any compact only long drop out,..''

    not sure how it happened, but when I was washing the bike and swaping wheels today it happened, rode for 20 miles yesterday glad it did not happen then, a blessing in disguise as it happened in my garage after I was 100% finished cleaning and lubing LOL

  145. #345
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    Where do you live Dave Mac? Jump on the banshee site and you should be able to find a distributor in your country

  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  147. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    THanks Micheal and Lynx

    thanks for the link, but the thing that screws on has been damaged, the fancy nut that says only 10NM on it, I looked yesterday and it says they are out of stock for the compact kit,

    probably have to call them as I not 100% clear how the nut and the hanger work together,

  148. #348
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    I looks like your hanger has snapped, but retainer bolt for the hanger should be undamaged.

    The slightly tricky part will be removing the broken part of the hanger from the bolt. You'll need to find a way of stopping the broken hanger section spinning as you loosen the retainer bolt. Try and find a small edge to press an screwdriver against to stop rotation. For a first home mechanic job, it's not the easiest, a bike shop will likely solve this quickly tho.

    Our FAQ section shows exploded views so you can see how it goes together. FAQ – Banshee Bikes

    Be careful to follow the torque rating on the retainer bolt when reassembling.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I looks like your hanger has snapped, but retainer bolt for the hanger should be undamaged.

    The slightly tricky part will be removing the broken part of the hanger from the bolt. You'll need to find a way of stopping the broken hanger section spinning as you loosen the retainer bolt. Try and find a small edge to press an screwdriver against to stop rotation. For a first home mechanic job, it's not the easiest, a bike shop will likely solve this quickly tho.

    Our FAQ section shows exploded views so you can see how it goes together. FAQ – Banshee Bikes

    Be careful to follow the torque rating on the retainer bolt when reassembling.
    thanks much for the reply Builttoride that video helps a lot, that is exactly what I was trying to figure out, about that retaining bolt attached is a better picture for clarification,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018+ Banshee Prime thread-hanger.jpg  


  150. #350
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    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-droppers.jpg

    when I got the bike last year from Jenson, they sent me this long version of droppers also, I never looked at before, but now that I am looking at it, seems to be for the earlier models and not the 2017???

    does anyone know if this would fit on my newer model, it does not appear to look the same as the 2017 models with the hanger retaining bolt,

    I am thinking maybe they sent me the wrong model??

    any help would be greatly appreciated

  151. #351
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    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-box.jpg

    here is box it came in says 2017

  152. #352
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    I'm afraid they have mistakenly sent you generation 1 dropouts for a generation 2 frame, and they are not compatible.
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  153. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I'm afraid they have mistakenly sent you generation 1 dropouts for a generation 2 frame, and they are not compatible.
    thank you so much for taking the time to answer my rookie question it is much appreciated

  154. #354
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    Somewhere in Evil Empire©
    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img-20190714-wa0051.jpg

  155. #355
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    anyone ever try painting there water bottles with this stuff https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoKXTlqmUb8

    wonder if it would help keeping them clean

  156. #356
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    FWIW I have a 16 prime. I had my front fork set at 160mm. I had it set back to 150mm with the recent fork service. I found 150mm to be the "sweet spot". I also put a works component 1.5 degree headset in. The new HA sits right around 65 Degrees with a 51mm offset. So far first ride feels pretty good. Seems to have balanced out better again. Still waiting for a long travel 29er from Keith though!

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    I've got a 150mm air shaft waiting to go into my Lyrik the next time I drop the lowers as I feel 150mm is the sweet spot too.

    And I hope you've got your camping gear with you, we're going to be waiting here a while for the Prime LT. At least it lets me save the $$$ after buying a Paradox. :^)

  158. #358
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    I'm going to ask a very honest and serious question and hope you don't take offense, as I know everyone has their own riding styles and preferences. Will add that out of the Phantom and Prime, I think the Phantom is the bike that suits me the best, as I'm not a big jumper, but other than that prefer the feedback and need to really be the pilot on the Phantom over the feeling of monster truck from the Prime.

    Do you give a crap about the ups at all? As in, do you like doing technical climbs or single track climbing, or do you simply suffer the ups to get to the downs? I have to ask, as owning a Prime and riding some godly steep $hit, I find it handles so well and is so confidence inspiring, could imagine going some slacker in the HTA (maybe 66-66.5), but then climbing and rolling and tight rolling trails would suck too much for me. Can't even fathom how guys ride those modern bikes with <64 HTA on anything but steep and fast downs and just suffer the ups and don't ride more trail type trails.

    Quote Originally Posted by scottitus View Post
    FWIW I have a 16 prime. I had my front fork set at 160mm. I had it set back to 150mm with the recent fork service. I found 150mm to be the "sweet spot". I also put a works component 1.5 degree headset in. The new HA sits right around 65 Degrees with a 51mm offset. So far first ride feels pretty good. Seems to have balanced out better again. Still waiting for a long travel 29er from Keith though!
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  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm going to ask a very honest and serious question and hope you don't take offense, as I know everyone has their own riding styles and preferences. Will add that out of the Phantom and Prime, I think the Phantom is the bike that suits me the best, as I'm not a big jumper, but other than that prefer the feedback and need to really be the pilot on the Phantom over the feeling of monster truck from the Prime.

    Do you give a crap about the ups at all? As in, do you like doing technical climbs or single track climbing, or do you simply suffer the ups to get to the downs? I have to ask, as owning a Prime and riding some godly steep $hit, I find it handles so well and is so confidence inspiring, could imagine going some slacker in the HTA (maybe 66-66.5), but then climbing and rolling and tight rolling trails would suck too much for me. Can't even fathom how guys ride those modern bikes with <64 HTA on anything but steep and fast downs and just suffer the ups and don't ride more trail type trails.
    Most of the climbing I do is not technical. I climb up to go down, so what ever I have to climb to get to the top is what I climb. Most climbs range from 3.5-5mi. I set the frame in the low (slack) setting from day 1 when I got it. It still climbs well. If it doesn't climb as well as other bikes I consider it more exercise for my health. I ride it on a lot of varied terrain from whistler bike park to PNW all mtn trails. I find the bike has a better balance with the slacker HA. I was sort of experimenting with the angled headset, and its working out for me....so far. I've had two rides, two different places and it is riding good. I find the uphills don't give me the ear to ear grin all the way home after a ride like the downs do!

  160. #360
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    I do a fair bit of technical climbing on my new Prime with a 35mm stem, 150mm fork and -1deg headset in "high" (so ~65.5 deg HA). Climbs better than my phantom did using a 50mm stem, 130mm fork and no slackset in neutral (~67.5 deg HA).

    The main difference I have found is that the Prime is an 2019 XL (I'm 6ft, 34" inseam) while the phantom was a 2014 L. Longer reach with the saddle further forward gives me a roomy toptube while keeping the seat angle steeper than the phantom.

    Oddly there is less floppy front wheel feeling too despite the head angle being slacker. No issues going round corners up or down. In fact it feels more proficient and stable in the corners than the Phantom did.

    I think the longer reach coupled with the slacker head angle is the key to getting it all working nicely. Doing one or the other doesn't deliver the benefits.

  161. #361
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    Hey both of you guys, thanks for taking my reply/question as intended and giving such solid replies, much appreciated.

    Scottitus, that's kind of what I figured, unfortunately for me, clearing a good, steep, technical climb gives me much more than flying down at Mach speed. That being said, give me a nice, tight, technical, steep DH, that you can't really go too fast on and have to use your bike handling skills, some stalling etc and that really does it for me.

    Sidlaw, interesting that you found the L Phantom felt small at your height, but guesing maybe you're a bit younger and more flexible than I am. My L always felt a bit small running a 70mm stem and I'm 6'2.25", 35.25" inseam (longer legs & arms) and a not great flexibility level. Will be getting a new one down the line once I'm recovered from my current ordeal and have figured out the financials of it all, but this time it will definitely be an XL.
    Right now I'm not a fan of the steep STAs for the type of riding I like to do, which includes lots of long rolling-flat trails, sometimes just long, sometimes tight and twisty, some good amount of climbing, like steep tech climbing, but then I just scoot forward on the saddle. Not sure how I will feel once I can get back on a bike about pushing the bigger/harder gears like I do now, will see, but still don't expect to be wanting anything steeper than the current 74* STA.
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  162. #362
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    May be younger (40 at the end of the month) but have 3 fused vertebrae from a rugby accident in my teens. So not exactly flexible..................

    I'd imagine that if you are riding a L original phantom with 70mm stem and layback post the frame is a bit on the small side.

    From your previous postings you always come across as liking old style geometry from the early 2000's and don't use a dropper post. Which is fair enough but I think that you have to try the newer style (with a dropper post) for a while to allow your body and riding to adjust. You may just like it

  163. #363
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    I'm waiting for my 2017 Prime in L size. My height is 181cm. I'm bothering: did I order the correct size? Will ride with 50mm stem.

  164. #364
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    Would be fine I imagine, if you like a long bike it will feel a bit short but otherwise I can't see why it wouldn't fit you. I doubt that you would enjoy a shorter stem or be able to slacken things out too much using a slackset though.

  165. #365
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    I have a dropper, a 9point8 FallLine, it has an offset head, I like it a lot Sorry to hear about your vertebrae that blows, glad you're still able to ride, expect the extra cush of the Prime helps with that. Don't need anything slacker than 67.5*, even on the steepest stuff we have (which according to many, including visitors from BC, Alps etc is very steep) because once you do that, it to me is not really the rider anymore riding it's the bike that's making it, luckily still have one friend who agrees with me and has no trouble keeping up to the guys on "modern" Enduro bikes on his Primer. FYI, I ride all the steep stuff on a full rigid Unit with a 68.5* HTA, get dropped on the fast, bumpy stufff, but once it gets steep and or slow technical I'm there.

    Don't like to sit and spin the easiest gears and take forever to get up climbs, so need the leverage of a saddle that's behind KOPS by a little, just like all the rest of the Pros I've ridden with do and agree with me on. Most of the guys riding modern geo bikes with steep STAs that ride here, all have their saddles slammed all the way back, negating the whole steep STA thing anyways, yet praising it

    Quote Originally Posted by Sidlaw View Post
    May be younger (40 at the end of the month) but have 3 fused vertebrae from a rugby accident in my teens. So not exactly flexible..................

    I'd imagine that if you are riding a L original phantom with 70mm stem and layback post the frame is a bit on the small side.

    From your previous postings you always come across as liking old style geometry from the early 2000's and don't use a dropper post. Which is fair enough but I think that you have to try the newer style (with a dropper post) for a while to allow your body and riding to adjust. You may just like it
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  166. #366
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    It's interesting to hear different views on the steep STA and how it works or doesn't for people.

    I'm of the view that once you get really extended seat tubes due to longer legs, the steep STA has a beneficial effect.

    That said, I'm still very happy with the climbing manners of my Prime with the fork set at 160mm and in slack. 150mm fork and steep setting might be an interesting test to run at some time.

  167. #367
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    My setup is probably atypical; I prioritized climbing to some extent.
    Mostly steeper UT stuff that predates modern trail design or “bike” trails altogether

    V2 Prime (L)
    Me: 5’ 10” probably longer torso then the average.
    Setting: high position
    Fork: 140mm
    Stem: 60mm
    Saddle: 80% back on rails.

    Longer stem (somewhat low cockpit) and pushing the saddle back is what made me happiest. Initially I had shorter stem and saddle pushed forward because the internet told me to do it.

    (edit) I also tried cleats slammed all the way back. moved them a bit forward but they are way further back then what I had set on previous bike that was more middle of the road 2015 trail/xc geo
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  168. #368
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    I noticed 160mm started to lift the front pretty high even with handlebars lowered. Didn't realize till I noticed my bars were higher than all of my riding buddies bikes. It went well on the straights, but felt like more of a compromise in the corners. I got used to it. Part of going 160mm was for a slacker HA. So I figured why not bring it down and slacken it out at the same time. I figured this would also benefit STA and lower the BB slightly while also extending wheelbase. I expected more wheel flop, but first two rides didn't notice any extra flop. I did notice the bike not getting hung up as much on familiar trails. It did not help me keep from burying my O rings front and back. I think next step would be a"hot" tune for the suspenders. As my riding changes I have been changing the bike to suit.

  169. #369
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    I think that the steeper STA's only really work with longer reaches. So being 6ft with 34" inseam I have a 2019 Prime in XL with a 35mm stem and the saddle 2/3 of the way forward on the rails. Feels nicely balanced between the wheels for climbing and can certainly put power down more easily than on my old L 2014 phantom.

    I run mine with 150mm fork and -1deg headset in steep. After much messing around it seems to be the best compromise for me and my riding (mixture of rocky, rooty woods and flowy moorland) pedalling up and down.

  170. #370
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    Just for comparison, I'm 6' with 31-32" inseam and the large fits like a glove with a 50mm stem. I could go with a 35mm stem but in testing I found the 50mm allows me to stretch out a little more and apply some of my weight over the front wheel on extended climbs. No issues with the front wondering this way but even at 30mm it's not an issue either.

    I'm running mine with a Topaz rear and an MRP stage set at 140mm. The Topaz was a game changer. I have it setup in the low BB setting. Love how low and playful it is this way. I ride mostly single track here but also do the occasional lift day. It always surprises me at how well it handles everything.

  171. #371
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    Does anybody know what the axle path of the prime is?

    Being the good little monster truck that it is in going faster than ever and I've noticed that occasionally the bike gets unexpectedly hung up on isolated square edges hits (i.e. edges where the suspension isn't already moving much at the point of impact).

    I realise that some of this may be me needing to ride better but these aren't avoidable square edges. It feels like the suspension isn't moving out of the way fast enough and I was wondering whether it is due to the axle path not being very rearward in the first half of the travel or if the shock (ccdb air il) isn't responding fast enough (too much HSC?). I remember this being commented on in a review for one of the bigger bikes but can't remember which and wondered if it was a characteristic of Banshee suspension ?

    This has cost me one rear rim already and I'm keen to find a solution!

  172. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidlaw View Post
    Does anybody know what the axle path of the prime is?

    Being the good little monster truck that it is in going faster than ever and I've noticed that occasionally the bike gets unexpectedly hung up on isolated square edges hits (i.e. edges where the suspension isn't already moving much at the point of impact).

    I realise that some of this may be me needing to ride better but these aren't avoidable square edges. It feels like the suspension isn't moving out of the way fast enough and I was wondering whether it is due to the axle path not being very rearward in the first half of the travel or if the shock (ccdb air il) isn't responding fast enough (too much HSC?). I remember this being commented on in a review for one of the bigger bikes but can't remember which and wondered if it was a characteristic of Banshee suspension ?

    This has cost me one rear rim already and I'm keen to find a solution!
    The prime is more rearward than most to start with, but arcs round to minimise pedal kickback for last third of travel.

    First thing to check is your rear sag. If you are too deep in your travel then you will not be making the most of the initial rearward axle path. 14.0-15.5mm of shock compression is the magic range (28-30% sag). More than this and you'll loose pedal efficiency, ability to pump terrain as well... and start hanging up on things more.
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  173. #373
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    Thanks Keith, appreciate the fast reply. I thought my sag was correct but I'll double check.

    While you are here do you have a suggested base tune for a prime with a CCDB airIL? I contacted Banshee directly and didn't get a particularly helpful answer (basically set it so that it feels right). I'm sure that you used to supply them with CCDB shocks so I'd assumed that Banshee had base tunes?

    It may well just be that I'm riding much faster than I used to on the Phantom because the Prime is so much more capable that I expected over bumpy stuff.

    Oddly it has never happened on my natural rides in Scotland but happened at Coed-y-brennin on the last section of the old red bull trail (buckled rim) and on the Dalbeattie red. Maybe this is telling me I shouldn't visit trail centres!

  174. #374
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    Square edge hits tends to be harder at trail centers (only the hardest square edge materials survive), and often the trails are faster, so might be factors.

    Regarding the inline settings, it's not a shock we ever sold on the prime, but I'd assume that rough baseline starting point would be same as the CCDBair, and you should find that on their site. Just remember that it's a vague starting point... focus on getting sag right, then progression, and then dialing in the damping.
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  175. #375
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    Fair enough, thanks. For pretty much everything else the shock works fine. I spent a day setting it up according to the CC guide but wondered if I'd screwed things up given the behavior on square edge stuff.

    Maybe the fault lies with the rider after all.

  176. #376
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    can someone tell me if these cranks will work on the banshee prime 2018 model I have a set from race face on there and am almost positive they are the same ones, just not sure what the 24mm stands for


    RaceFace Aeffect, Crank Arm, 165mm, 24mm, BCD: Direct Mount,

    thanks

  177. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    can someone tell me if these cranks will work on the banshee prime 2018 model I have a set from race face on there and am almost positive they are the same ones, just not sure what the 24mm stands for


    RaceFace Aeffect, Crank Arm, 165mm, 24mm, BCD: Direct Mount,

    thanks
    The 24mm is the diameter of the spindle. As opposed to 30mm on some cranks. The Aeffect will fit a Prime, just take care that these are not a DH version (don't think RF made a DH Aeffect but better to be safe than sorry!).
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  178. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    The 24mm is the diameter of the spindle. As opposed to 30mm on some cranks. The Aeffect will fit a Prime, just take care that these are not a DH version (don't think RF made a DH Aeffect but better to be safe than sorry!).
    thanks sir

  179. #379
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    I have a 2017 prime frame xl for sale if anyone is interested

  180. #380
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    New LT 29er?

    Any comment on this built to ride?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  181. #381
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    is it a Prime?
    ...probably a new LT bike.
    just keep checking related Thread

  182. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogsonboards View Post
    In the process of building up a brand new Prime for spring.

    DVO Diamond 150mm up front.

    Canecreek DB coil CS shock for the rear. I wanted the Climb Switch on the spring to tweak the settings easily. I have used canecreek air shocks before and like how their climb switch works much better then a lockout. So decided to get a coil with that.

    I looked at the Fox coil as well and also MRP. The new MRP springs looked interesting.

    Unfortunately given the weather here in Canada right now will be awhile before I can actually ride it.

    Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk
    Hey,

    Just thought I'd follow up and see how your Prime build with the coil is going - given its cold and wet here in AUS at the moment, should be looking good in CAN at the moment!

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Hey,

    Just thought I'd follow up and see how your Prime build with the coil is going - given its cold and wet here in AUS at the moment, should be looking good in CAN at the moment!
    The Prime build turned out great. I love it with the coil the feel is great. Took two tries to get the right spring rate ( 450 then 500 ). If I were going to use the Prime for really big hits at a bike park I would probably want a stiffer spring ( 550 ), but I have a longer travel bike for that.

    For an aggressive trail bike or light enduro the Prime is great. With the coil tuned it just feels like it floats over things.

    I wanted the climb switch for XC climbs, but the Prime suspension design climbs really well without it once you have the spring rate right. I rarely use it. If I had stuck with 450 would probably use the climb switch more. That spring didn't feel the greatest in hard corners though.

    Occasionally I have bottomed it out, but more the front fork the the rear. It is not the bike for huge hucks to flat but I knew that going in.

    This is my first experience with coil on a smaller travel bike and I love it and would not go back to air. Worth the weight penalty. I just wish there were options to try different springs before you buy. That is a bit annoying.

    Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk

  184. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogsonboards View Post
    The Prime build turned out great. I love it with the coil the feel is great. Took two tries to get the right spring rate ( 450 then 500 ). If I were going to use the Prime for really big hits at a bike park I would probably want a stiffer spring ( 550 ), but I have a longer travel bike for that.

    For an aggressive trail bike or light enduro the Prime is great. With the coil tuned it just feels like it floats over things.

    I wanted the climb switch for XC climbs, but the Prime suspension design climbs really well without it once you have the spring rate right. I rarely use it. If I had stuck with 450 would probably use the climb switch more. That spring didn't feel the greatest in hard corners though.

    Occasionally I have bottomed it out, but more the front fork the the rear. It is not the bike for huge hucks to flat but I knew that going in.

    This is my first experience with coil on a smaller travel bike and I love it and would not go back to air. Worth the weight penalty. I just wish there were options to try different springs before you buy. That is a bit annoying.

    Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk
    Thanks heaps for the quick reply!

    Are you running the CC inline coil or the bigger one? And do you mind me asking your riding weight?

    Trying to decide between springing (pun intended) for a coil shock and progressive spring (Keith @ Banshee strongly recommended additional progression as there's not a lot in the Prime frame) or doing the Vorsprung Tractive upgrade for the Monarch RC3+ I've got...

    Anyone on the forum done the tractive upgrade and have feedback to share?

  185. #385
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    I have the bigger Cane creek coil shock with external reservoir. More adjustable and better reliability and performance apparently.

    Progression was an issue I thought about, and I considered the MRP spring, but decided to try without first and I am happy with the performance -- I have Valt springs. I think the tunability of the Canecreek helps.

    However, the progressive spring should help with the bigger hits. If you try it I would like to hear the results.

    I am about 185 lbs, so around 200 with gear.

    Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk

  186. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogsonboards View Post
    I have the bigger Cane creek coil shock with external reservoir. More adjustable and better reliability and performance apparently.

    Progression was an issue I thought about, and I considered the MRP spring, but decided to try without first and I am happy with the performance -- I have Valt springs. I think the tunability of the Canecreek helps.

    However, the progressive spring should help with the bigger hits. If you try it I would like to hear the results.

    I am about 185 lbs, so around 200 with gear.

    Sent from my BLA-A09 using Tapatalk
    Cheers!

    I had a quick email with MRP and it sounds like at about 105kg I'd probably get away with the 550lb spring rate, but am on the cusp of needing a 600lb spring, which they don't currently make. so I think I'll hold off for now, as I don't want to risk needing the bigger spring without having it available if need be - coil shocks are expensive.

  187. #387
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    RC3 is not fast enough for repetitive hits. Like you, I thought about tuning the Monarch, but went for a DVO Topaz for my Spitfire. Totallly transformed the bike, it just floats over root sections where it kicked and hung up before.

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo_eddie View Post
    RC3 is not fast enough for repetitive hits. Like you, I thought about tuning the Monarch, but went for a DVO Topaz for my Spitfire. Totallly transformed the bike, it just floats over root sections where it kicked and hung up before.
    Yeah I agree, the RC3 isn't up to scratch as is - but the tractive upgrades are meant to be pretty great - and cheaper than a Topaz. Have a mate who raved about the Topaz he had on his Giant Reign.

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.c View Post
    Cheers!

    I had a quick email with MRP and it sounds like at about 105kg I'd probably get away with the 550lb spring rate, but am on the cusp of needing a 600lb spring, which they don't currently make. so I think I'll hold off for now, as I don't want to risk needing the bigger spring without having it available if need be - coil shocks are expensive.
    Yeah, given my experience 550 progressive sounds about right but you can't tell for sure till you try it.

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  190. #390
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    Looking at purchasing a bike bag ahead of a 3 day trip to Maydena,AUS next month.

    Anyone here with an XL able to confirm any bags that will definitely fit an XL Prime?

  191. #391
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    I good simple tip if a bike bag is slightly short for a bike is to take your front brake caliper off, and rotate the fork 180. Or if air fork, reduce air pressure and then let it out to compress fork if needed. (beware that some forms don't like having no air in them)

    For reference my Large Titan just fits in the evoc bike bag I have... but is tight. The bag is probably 8 years old now to, they may have made them longer since then.
    Last edited by builttoride; 10-07-2019 at 02:10 AM.
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  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I good simple tip if a bike bag is slightly short for a bike is to take your front brake caliper off, and rotate the fork 180. Or if air fork, take not of your pressure and then let it out to compress fork if needed.

    For reference my Large Titan just fits in the evoc bike bag I have... but is tight. The bag is probably 8 years old now to, they may have made them longer since then.
    Thanks heaps! XL Prime has a smaller wheelbase than the L Titan and bike bags have gotten a little bigger, so sound like I should be OK with most bags on the market now.

  193. #393
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    this bike just keeps getting better and better the more I ride it, that all

  194. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    this bike just keeps getting better and better the more I ride it, that all
    Haha it sure does - I love mine!

  195. #395
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    Have somebody compared and rode Prime vs yeti sb 130 or maybe evil the offering?
    Impressions ??

  196. #396
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    New to this thread and Banshee ownership. Have crossed paths with Banshee owners over the years and they were, without exception, lovers of their bikes. So I decided to give one a try.

    I came off a Tantrum Outburst - a kickstarter bike with a unique suspension called the Missing Link. It worked as advertised - which is really well, but the frame size I chose was just too small. All the parts moved over to the Banshee, which made this build up easy.

    DVO Diamond fork, 150mm
    DVO Topaz shock. I find this softens the square edges and smooths the chatter better than the stock Rockshox.
    29” carbon Roval wheels with Cushcore inserts.
    Maxxis Minions: DHF and SS.
    Carbon RaceFace SixC bars
    Renthal stem 50mm
    OneUp 150mm post.
    Otherwise an XT build.
    I’m 5’10”.

    I’ve only had a few rides on the bike but am very very impressed. I ride a lot of different bikes regularly, so I think I can get a pretty quick feel for where bikes stand out or fall down. The three big stand outs for me are 1. fit: (I know this is more personal but…) this bike just felt so right immediately without any modifications 2. pedalling efficiency: you can pedal slowly or stand up and mash and anywhere in between, the bike moves along very well and does not bob or sink into its travel 3. confidence on the downs: This bike rips the downs and the corners and really just wants to play everywhere. I find myself launching off anything I can see without concern.

    2018+ Banshee Prime thread-img_8642.jpg

  197. #397
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    Looks great, and I love the spec choices. Enjoy the Prime. I'm approaching 18 months in and still absolutely love this bike. It does everything well and it's only held back by the rider!

  198. #398
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    I love the versatility of this bike,

    I just recently started riding it as a mullet and find it to me my favorite set up so far, play full, fast, and still get the roll over (versus 27.5)

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