2017 Banshee Build Thread- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 194 of 194
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521

    2017 Banshee Build Thread

    Now that the 2017's are available I thought it was time to have a devoted thread for the builds.

    Got my XL frame the other day, have started building up my 2017 Prime!

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170304_125128216_hdr.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170304_125103690_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by MartinS; 03-05-2017 at 12:26 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    156
    thats the bike I want to get but not here yet whear did you get it?

    did you need to face off the head tube, I am excited this will be my first build. Love to here some details from you.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: targnik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,090
    I'm keen on the Orange Prime ^^

    Major greasing to do, if it's to happen o_0

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    "Mountain biking: the under-rated and drug-free antidepressant"

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Ordered direct through Banshee a few months back as there are no dealers nearby, I believe Dirtmerchant should have them pdq if they don't have them yet.
    No need for facing headset, pressed in easy peasy.
    Last edited by MartinS; 03-07-2017 at 08:08 PM.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    156
    lets here about the front end you have installed so far, what head set and fork did you go with looking good

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Most of the parts are of my '13 Prime. Here''s a quick breakdown of the build.

    RS Pike Solo air w/ Vorsprung Luftkappe
    Chris King hs
    RF SixC bar w/ 50mm Atlas stem
    XTR trail brakes w/ 180mm Ice tech's
    XTR 11 spd shifter
    XT gs derailleur
    XT 11 - 46 cassette, we'll see how the big jump between 37t and 46t goes, also have an XT 11 - 40t with a 45t One-Up if it doesn't cut it.
    I9 Gravity wheels for heavy use
    I9 hubs with Derby carbon rims for lighter days
    Chunky Monkey 2.4 tires
    RF Turbine cranks for now, trying a 32t up front first, once fat bike season is over I'll swap my Next SL's over
    XTR trail pedals
    9point8 200mm dropper - I'm going to have to lower it about 12 to 15mm though.
    WTB Laser slti saddle
    Stock Monarch RC3 shock, but also have a DBAIR that I will be testing out

  7. #7
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Nice man. Look forward to seeing it built up.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Here you go!
    As you can see we still have a bit of snow (the ground should be level, plus the drift at the front of my house is around 9 feet deep), hopefully I can dial it all in before heading to Hurricane at the end of the month.

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170305_120430276.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170305_120443394.jpg

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    222
    How tall are you? And what is your inseam? I am between this bike and a xxl stumpjumper. Compromises will be had no matter which bike I choose.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    156
    good looking bike

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    I'm a bit over 6'3", shorter legs for my height - 34" inseam. Bike seems like it will fit well, a bit longer than my 2013 model so went with a 10mm short stem than before (60mm to a 50mm). Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but it seems good.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    5
    Waiting is hard.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by SammyB View Post
    Waiting is hard.
    Indeed.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Subscribed to hear you thoughts comparing the 2 different models. Looks really nice, really digging the new integrated TT and brace.

    Curious how the handling compare with that little bit of added Reach, wondering if maybe you've tried a 40mm stem? After getting my large Phantom after riding the XL PP Prime for 2 years and always having a bit of a struggle on faster tracks with the front end, I ended up running only a 10mm longer (70mm compared to 60mm) stem than I ran on the XL Prime, I realised I had been running a too long stem to properly weight the front. Last year I rebuilt the Prime with a 40mm stem and did not have that high speed cornering control issue, and despite over 2" in WB between the XL Prime and L Phantom, I have no issues navigating the tighter, slower stuff on it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Subscribed to hear you thoughts comparing the 2 different models. Looks really nice, really digging the new integrated TT and brace.

    Curious how the handling compare with that little bit of added Reach, wondering if maybe you've tried a 40mm stem? After getting my large Phantom after riding the XL PP Prime for 2 years and always having a bit of a struggle on faster tracks with the front end, I ended up running only a 10mm longer (70mm compared to 60mm) stem than I ran on the XL Prime, I realised I had been running a too long stem to properly weight the front. Last year I rebuilt the Prime with a 40mm stem and did not have that high speed cornering control issue, and despite over 2" in WB between the XL Prime and L Phantom, I have no issues navigating the tighter, slower stuff on it.
    Hey Lynx, might be a while before I can really answer your questions, as you can see, lots of snow locally. I will be down south for a week at the end of the month though, problem is after a winter of riding 4.8 tires all regular bikes feel really weird for the first little while.
    I do plan on checking out a shorter stem, but 50mm was the shortest I currently have in my collection. Just sitting on it seems pretty familiar though, so I don't thing it will be hard to adjust to. I haven't broken out the measuring tape yet - I usually try to set up all my bikes so general fit is the same.

  16. #16
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Thanks for that, looks sick! I was going to comment that the tires looked a little small, but then saw they are 2.4 Monkeys. So apparently that is just due to the sheer size of the XL Prime (and maybe because I am running 2.6s currently).

    Looks like you've got a bit of room to adjust the seat back if needed.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  17. #17
    Gear Whore
    Reputation: mudpuppy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,352
    Interesting note about the dropper...was looking at the same one if I go with a new Prime. I have a '13 production model and love it...nothing wrong with it really...just want a new bike really bad...hah.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Same boat for me, nothing wrong with my 2013, just decide on a change of scenery.
    Yeah, the 200mm dropper would probably require at least a 36" inseam, I would recommend ordering the height adusting shims when you order the post just in case, 9point8's shipping costs are ridiculous on small parts ($42 for $35 of parts).

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    127
    Great looking bike Martin. Did you happen to weigh it before you started the build?

    See you're in Fernie, spent the winter of 1999/2000 there and hung around for some early season riding, god I miss that place! Has it changed much? Bet it's expanded a fair bit now

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Quote Originally Posted by davosaurusrex View Post
    Great looking bike Martin. Did you happen to weigh it before you started the build?

    See you're in Fernie, spent the winter of 1999/2000 there and hung around for some early season riding, god I miss that place! Has it changed much? Bet it's expanded a fair bit now
    I did weigh it prior to the build, it is lighter but not much compared to the old one. Including the shock (so Monarch vs DBAir) the difference was about 1/2 lb.

    Fernie is still pretty similar overall, probably more biker oriented now, but the trail system is way more extensive than it was back then plus we have miles of groomed fat bike trails all winter. I would guess that there isn't a trail left that isn't significantly different, way more options, all are a short bike ride from town so no need to drive to a trailhead (with the exception if the big mountain dh runs that you have to shuttle), all singletrack, no fire road climbs . I think at last count we were at around 80 trails accessible with a 15 minute ride from my door.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    127
    Thanks Martin, can you remember what the weight was?

    I used to live with a bunch of Ozzie snowboarders in that little house on the corner of 5th and 10th with the river running around the bottom of the garden. Just been looking round town on Google streetview, boy I'm nostalgic now!

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Quote Originally Posted by davosaurusrex View Post
    Thanks Martin, can you remember what the weight was?

    I used to live with a bunch of Ozzie snowboarders in that little house on the corner of 5th and 10th with the river running around the bottom of the garden. Just been looking round town on Google streetview, boy I'm nostalgic now!
    This town is rife with Ozzie boarders, so no surprise there. World class fly-fishing in that river too!
    Frame weight was 7lbs 15 oz with rear axle and shock. As most Banshee fans know, they aren't the lightest out there but they sure can take a beating. I was a little concerned by the German blog claim that the new frame was 1 lb lighter than the old one, I don't like to ride noodles. I have lighter bikes, but my Banshee is the one that won't leave me stranded in the back country!

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    156
    Hi Martain is there any chance I could get you to measure the inner diameter of the BB. It would be ever so appreciated.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Sorry, not going to remove the BB at this point, it's all built up. Inner Diameter is pretty standard for a threaded BB, nothing unusual there. If you were wondering width, it is a 73mm.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    156
    My bad I dont blame you for that I thought you might know or be able to get a measurement from the outside,I would not want you take it apart. Thanks for the responce

  26. #26
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    514
    Nice, a properly sized bike! A bit surprised you can't slam the post. The stealth routing hole is right at the bottom of the straight/usable seat tube section; the housing and the 9point8 connector might be what's in the way. This would also explain why you were able to slam the 30.9 (I'm assuming you didn't set it up/connect it).

    Dave Mac: Banshee uses a 73mm BSA threaded across the lineup. Roughly a 33.5mm ID.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MartinS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,521
    Yeah was a bit surprised too, I initially tried a 31.6 Thompson and it only went down about 263mm before stopping, pretty sure it is where the seat tube starts to curve back toward the bb. The 30.9 post I checked out for the other mtbr member (sorry forgot his name) was probably just narrow enough to get by the bend.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    The 30.9 post I checked out for the other mtbr member (sorry forgot his name)...
    You're welcome. :-D

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    22
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1097-01-01.jpg

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1093-01-01.jpg


    - Frame: Phantom XL
    - Fork: Rock Shox Pike 130mm 51mm offset
    - Headset: Hope
    - Stem: Chromag Ranger V2 60mm
    - Handlebar: Answer Pro Taper SL 750mm
    - Grips: Ergon GS1
    - Seat clamp: Banshee
    - Seatpost: Fox Transfer Factory 150mm
    - Saddle: Bontrager Evoke RL
    - Brakes: Shimano XTR Race 180mm rotors
    - Shifter: Shimano XT 11psd
    - Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT
    - Cranks: Shimano XT 180mm
    - Pedals: Shimano XT
    - Bottom Bracket: Shimano XT
    - Chainring: Absolute Black Oval 32t
    - Cassette: Shimano XT 11-46t
    - Chain: Shimano XT
    - Wheelset: Roval Traverse SL
    - Front tire: Maxxis Minion DHR 3C 2.3
    - Rear tire: Maxxis Ardent Race 3C 2.35

    Weight is dead on 30lbs minus the storage bottle, pump and gps. Not too bad as the frame alone was over 8lbs. Can easily take another pound off the drivetrain if needed.

    Rides very nice! Frame is rock solid. It's got a lot of suspension muscle for only 105mm, the KS Link does way more than most bikes of similar travel. Pedalling position is just right. The raw finish looks awesome!

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    107
    Nice build!

    Could you please measure your chainline and take a photo of the chainstay/chainring clearence with your oval? Thank you!

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Very nice Curious, how tall are you? I'm assuming you must be over 6'4" to be running that setup on the XL with 480mm Reach. Which setup did you go with 142x12 or 148x12 and how are you running the chips? I don't feel so bad now with my Large PP V1 running a 2x, 150x12 rear and alloy wheels coming in just a smidge over 31lbs

    Quote Originally Posted by DenyEverything View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_1093-01-01.jpg 
Views:	436 
Size:	288.7 KB 
ID:	1128922

    - Frame: Phantom XL - Fork: Rock Shox Pike 130mm 51mm offset - Stem: Chromag Ranger V2 60mm - Handlebar: Answer Pro Taper SL 750mm.
    - Weight is dead on 30lbs minus the storage bottle, pump and gps. Not too bad as the frame alone was over 8lbs. Can easily take another pound off the drivetrain if needed.

    Rides very nice! Frame is rock solid. It's got a lot of suspension muscle for only 105mm, the KS Link does way more than most bikes of similar travel. Pedalling position is just right. The raw finish looks awesome!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  32. #32
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536

    Large Turquoise Spitfire. Looks more Teal to me.
    New bits:
    27.5 Pike, Monarch plus.
    Spank Spike "Bear Claw" stem 50mm
    Answer Pro Taper 780mm
    KS Lev Integra 150mm with Race Face remote.
    Old bits:
    X9 shifter, derailleur & cranks.
    Sunrace 11-42 cogs.
    Absolute Black 32 tooth chainring.
    DT EX500 rims on X9 hubs.
    Replacing the X9 brakes with Guide RS asap.
    The Flite was in the spares box.
    Pedals are Exus something.
    Swapping the Minions for winter tyres soon.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    22
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-dsc_1104-01.jpg

    That's with the 34t position closest to the chainstay^. Chainline appears to be 56mm, haven't really checked if that's ideal or not.

    Yes LyNx, I'm 6'4" and with long arms. It's got the 142mm dropouts, was going to get 148 but wheelset availability was a slight issue when I ordered. Dropouts are in the slack position, so with the 130mm fork I should have a nice 67 HA!

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    38

    New Phantom

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg

    Frame: Phantom size Large
    Fork: Fox 34 Factory at 120mm
    Shock: Fox with Avalanche damper
    Seatpost: Rockshox Reverb 125mm
    Stem: RaceFace atlas 50mm length
    Bar: Renthal Fatbar Lite 35mm rise
    Drivetrain: Shimano XT
    Pedals: Race Face chester
    Brakes: Magura MT5, with new 1 finger lever
    Wheels: Roval Traverse SL Fattie
    Tires: Maxxis Highroller II front, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35 rear
    Saddle: Fabric scoop radius

    This is a replacement of a mint green phantom that I cracked in a bad crash. Overall, the improvements are small but noticeable. The hydro forming on the top tube and brace look great, the paint finish is an awesome matte, the new DT dropout is good, and the small geometry tweaks means the bike seems to fit me a little better. I'm 6' 0.5" and the little bit of top tube length feels just about right.

    The travel in the rear never feels undergunned compared to the front. And in the slack setting, cornering feels amazing! Seemingly no loss in climbing abilities in the slack setting either.

    I'm loving it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg  


  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    43
    Finally got my XL Spitfire built during late nights last week. Looks good and now its time to set the suspension up to my liking. There will be a 170 mm drop Reverb Stealth installed later this week, too bad they do not come in silver!

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spittyv3xl-2530.jpg

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spittyv3xl-2525.jpg

    - Frame: Spitfire XL
    - Fork: Fox 34 factory 150 mm
    - Headset: Banshee
    - Stem: Thomson elite 50 mm
    - Handlebar: Pro Tharsis trail carbon 800 mm
    - Grips: ODI
    - Seat clamp: Banshee
    - Seatpost: Thomson pictured (Reverb 170 mm)
    - Saddle: WTB Volt carbon
    - Brakes: SRAM Guide RSC 160mm rotors
    - Drivetrain: SRAM X01 11 spd
    - Wheelset: Mavic WTS Crossmax Pro 142 mm

  36. #36
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185

    Banshee Amp

    Not many of us have Amps, but here's mine:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-03-30-17.02.58.jpg
    Mostly old parts on this, but I think it came together pretty well.

    Frame: Banshee Amp, long, raw/purple
    Fork: Rock Shox Argyle
    Brake: Shimano SLX, 160
    Wheels: Hope Pro 2 Evo / Mavic 823
    Tires: Larsen TT 2.0
    Crank: Truvativ Stylo
    BB: GXP
    Chainring: Blackspire N/W 30T
    Cog: Gusset
    Chain: Dura-Ace 10spd
    Pedals: Gusset
    Bar: Easton Havoc Carbon
    Stem: Chromag Hi-Fi
    Grips: Deity
    Seat: Chromag Lynx DT
    Post: CRC

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48

    MY17 Banshee Spitfire w/ 26in (for now)

    Spitfire build complete
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-17796316_10212469167394689_66655151711607487_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17800331_10212469167354688_9190608264507372416_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17760009_10212469167434690_1271042391994637153_n.jpg  

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-17795776_10212469167474691_3264420970041720219_n.jpg  


  38. #38
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Got my Prime built today:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-04-11-19.09.45-copy.jpg
    It's orange.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    Got my Prime built today:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2017-04-11 19.09.45 - Copy.jpg 
Views:	184 
Size:	150.8 KB 
ID:	1131320
    It's orange.
    Nice!

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    47
    this one's orange too
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-prime.jpg  


  41. #41
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Nice!

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-s1600_20170415_082703.jpg
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-s1600_20170415_082656_01.jpg
    Frame Banshee Spitfire V3 2017 Medium size
    Rear Shock Rock Shox Monarch Plus RC3
    Fork Rock Shox Pike RCT3 160mm
    Headset FSA
    Handlebar Renthal Fatbar Lite 35 20 rise 760 wide
    Stem Easton Haven 35mm 40mm long
    Grips ODI ruffian lock on
    Brakes Hope Technology Tech3 E4 180mm front and rear
    Brake Levers Hope Technology Tech 3 V4
    Shifters SRAM GX1
    Rear Derailleur SRAM GX1
    Chainguide Other 77designz freesolo
    Cranks Race Face Turbine cinch 175mm
    Chainrings / Sprocket Race Face Turbine 11 Speed 30t
    Bottom Bracket Race Face
    Chain SRAM
    Cassette / Rear Cog SRAM X01 10-42
    Pedals DMR Vault
    Front Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow Ex 650b
    Rear Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow EX 650B
    Hubs DT Swiss 350
    Spokes DT Swiss
    Front Tire Maxxis Minnion DHF 3C 2.3
    Rear Tire Maxxis HighRoller II 2.3
    Saddle Specialized Power
    Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth 125mm
    Weight : 14 kgs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170415_082656%5B1%5D.jpg  


  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s1600_20170415_082703.jpg 
Views:	181 
Size:	205.1 KB 
ID:	1132498
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s1600_20170415_082656_01.jpg 
Views:	144 
Size:	168.1 KB 
ID:	1132497
    Frame Banshee Spitfire V3 2017 Medium size
    Rear Shock Rock Shox Monarch Plus RC3
    Fork Rock Shox Pike RCT3 160mm
    Headset FSA
    Handlebar Renthal Fatbar Lite 35 20 rise 760 wide
    Stem Easton Haven 35mm 40mm long
    Grips ODI ruffian lock on
    Brakes Hope Technology Tech3 E4 180mm front and rear
    Brake Levers Hope Technology Tech 3 V4
    Shifters SRAM GX1
    Rear Derailleur SRAM GX1
    Chainguide Other 77designz freesolo
    Cranks Race Face Turbine cinch 175mm
    Chainrings / Sprocket Race Face Turbine 11 Speed 30t
    Bottom Bracket Race Face
    Chain SRAM
    Cassette / Rear Cog SRAM X01 10-42
    Pedals DMR Vault
    Front Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow Ex 650b
    Rear Rim Stan's NoTubes ZTR Flow EX 650B
    Hubs DT Swiss 350
    Spokes DT Swiss
    Front Tire Maxxis Minnion DHF 3C 2.3
    Rear Tire Maxxis HighRoller II 2.3
    Saddle Specialized Power
    Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth 125mm
    Weight : 14 kgs

    that is a magnificent build sir!!

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Thought it would end up lighter but you can't feel the 14kg, it just climbs and acelarate so well, very happy.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48

    spitty love the Arizona desert!

    getting it dialed in for the local rock
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-fullsizerender.jpg  


  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Thought it would end up lighter but you can't feel the 14kg, it just climbs and acelarate so well, very happy.
    same here, it's a bit of a chunk, but hey so am i but absolutely loves down hill in Arizona

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Yes, it's reassuringly well built , one thing I notest regarding the Transition Patrol that I sell is that I have to be more careful with the rear break, it locks the wheel easier.

  48. #48
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    • ****ing sweet bike
    • able to handle random air very well
    • 34T chainring may be a bit too big
    • confidence inspiring


    The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...
    • keep riding for a while to see if it breaks in and mellows out
    • DVO Topaz
    • Fox Float X2
    • CCDBA
    • Put on a Debonair can

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    How heavy are you? If you're on the lighter side of things, that could be the problem. Maybe run some volume spacers so you can drop a few PSI and still have it ramp up more towards the end of the stroke.
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    ****ing sweet bike.....The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  50. #50
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    How heavy are you? If you're on the lighter side of things, that could be the problem. Maybe run some volume spacers so you can drop a few PSI and still have it ramp up more towards the end of the stroke.
    I'm 170 pounds, 190 geared up as I was yesterday, which should put me in the sweet spot for suspension settings. I was doing a little more research, and Cane Creek recommends a high volume air can for the Prime, so perhaps the Debonair can is worth a try.

  51. #51
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
    Reputation: PHeller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2,595
    What kind of weight are you guys getting on the new Spitfire frames? I'm wondering how the weight scales up from the 6.6lbs that Banshee is claiming for the Medium frames. I'd be interested in an XL.
    Work - Utility GIS Analyst
    Party - 2019 Guerrilla Gravity Revved Trail Pistol Sz 3

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,241
    We found as a general rule of thumb, that increasing frame size added 80-100g per size. Black ano frames are lighter than raw with clearcoat by around 150g, and painted frames by 180-250g depending on colour.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  53. #53
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
    Reputation: PHeller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2,595
    So a Large or XL 2017 Spitfire might weight anywhere between 6.8lbs and 6.9lbs, with another 400g for a Monarch Debonair 200x57, so around 7.6lbs total.
    Work - Utility GIS Analyst
    Party - 2019 Guerrilla Gravity Revved Trail Pistol Sz 3

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    5,407
    There is a German site that has some 2017 weights.

    7.2lbs for a Large Spitfire with no shock.

    Gewicht Banshee Full-Suspension Spitfire Large

  55. #55
    No Clue Crew
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    6,744
    Tried to send as PM, but no dice.

    Recently built up a new '17 Phantom (my third Phantom). Couple quick questions:

    1. Is it possible to get the proper chainline without the stock ISCG mount? I removed it as I don't need a guide and it blocks access to the lower pivot. Running Next cranks, 32 ring and Eagle. I ended up running a 2.5mm spacer under each BB cup plus an additional 1mm on the drive side. Getting some drivetrain noise and don't think my setup is truly dialed.

    2. Also getting some creaking noise from the rear of the bike. Assembled dry. Do you recommend anti-seize or something on the rear dropouts and chips?
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: geoya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    41
    Congrats on Phantom, I just ordered one as well and can't wait to build it.

    As for dropouts, I have dealt with couple of similar issues on other frames (old GT force) and yes, creaking is most likely coming from the dropouts. Just apply thin layer of quality grease so all metal contact points are covered and the creaking should go away for a year or longer, depending on your weather and how you wash it.

  57. #57
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    514
    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    Tried to send as PM, but no dice.

    Recently built up a new '17 Phantom (my third Phantom). Couple quick questions:

    1. Is it possible to get the proper chainline without the stock ISCG mount? I removed it as I don't need a guide and it blocks access to the lower pivot. Running Next cranks, 32 ring and Eagle. I ended up running a 2.5mm spacer under each BB cup plus an additional 1mm on the drive side. Getting some drivetrain noise and don't think my setup is truly dialed.

    2. Also getting some creaking noise from the rear of the bike. Assembled dry. Do you recommend anti-seize or something on the rear dropouts and chips?
    This is quoted from a ways back:
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The ISCG mount needs to be installed on the frame to ensure proper BB width and strength.
    ...So maybe just toss it back on.

    If you're so inclined, I believe the shell measures 71mm without the adapter. RF Cinch cranks on a 73mm BSA BB calls for one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side. That comes to 4.5mm of spacers on the drive side only.

    You have too many spacers on your current setup. Make sure you are using the cinch collar on the non drive side to remove lateral play.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  58. #58
    No Clue Crew
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    6,744
    Thanks, man. I put the 2.5 under the NDS because I had to nearly max the cinch collar to dial the play out. Probably due to not running the ISCG. I'll do some maintenance this week.

    Got a ton of Phoenix and Sedona miles on it already and it's doing well overall. Pretty stoked with the MRP Ribbon.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,241
    It is important to have the splined ISCG on the frame to support the BB, without it your BB is not properly supported.

    The purpose of the spline is not to make it optional to run, but to enable you to change rotation if guide requires it. I highly recommend digging it out and mounting it on the frame rather than trying to replace it with BB spacers for the sake of a 20g weight saving.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  60. #60
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by geoya View Post
    As for dropouts, I have dealt with couple of similar issues on other frames (old GT force) and yes, creaking is most likely coming from the dropouts. Just apply thin layer of quality grease so all metal contact points are covered and the creaking should go away for a year or longer, depending on your weather and how you wash it.
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  61. #61
    No Clue Crew
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    6,744
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    It is important to have the splined ISCG on the frame to support the BB, without it your BB is not properly supported.

    The purpose of the spline is not to make it optional to run, but to enable you to change rotation if guide requires it. I highly recommend digging it out and mounting it on the frame rather than trying to replace it with BB spacers for the sake of a 20g weight saving.
    Will take care of it this week before riding again. Thank you.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    I had a similar problem,a little bit if grease between de frame and the Reverb solve it.

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Quietest my Phantom has ever been was my trip last year to Colorado, picked it right down and cleaned up everything, forgot to pack grease with me, so everything went up dry, not one creak, click or groan in some dry and dusty conditions. Actually thinking of stripping it back down and cleaning everything up and going back up dry again to try and get ride of a few intermittent clicks I have.

    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Just an FYI, I've had a Prime for several years and have never put a drop of anything on the dropouts or chips, and they have always been dead quiet in the wet or dry (unlike my brakes). Also they have never needed re-torqueing, although I do check them maybe every few months or if I recently changed them. I do put a light coat of grease on the axle threads and shaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    Well here is my new 2017 Banshee Spitfire. Currently have the flip chips set low. I hit some rocks and have trouble clearing some larger logs but its hard for me to change them cause the bike just rips through corners with it low.

    2017 Fox Factory Float Fit4 160mm fork
    Race Face Atlas Bars cut to 760mm
    Race Face Atlast 50mm Stem
    Race Face Ride Cranks
    Race Face 30T Narrow Wide Chainring
    Shimano XT 1x11 Rear Derauiller
    Shimano XT 1x11 Rear Cassette 11t-42t
    Spank Oozy Trail 295 650b Wheelset
    Maxxis DHF Minion (Front), Maxxis DHR II Minion (Rear), tubeless
    Thomson Elite Seatpost
    Cromag Seatpost collar
    Shimano Deore Brakes with 180mm rotors

    Upgrades in near future:
    Cane Creek 40 series headset (not nuts about the stock banshee munro that was installed, notices some paint chips or lack of anodizing on the inside of the cups which bothers me. Also like the fact that the cane creek has a rubber seal on the crown race.)
    Better Brakes
    Fox Transfer Dropper Seatpost

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212109.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212102.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212045.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170429_212118.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170501_190200.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_20170502_183050.jpg

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    that's a sweet build!!!

  66. #66
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    That is a sweet-looking ride. Good move matching the bar color to the stanchions (assuming it was intentional).

    I too like a low BB. Pedal strikes are a downside, but everything else is better so it's hard to want to raise it.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    Thanks Guys! Yea the bars and stanchion were done on purpose haha. They have a matching Race Face Atlas Crank that is that color too. It would look sick. But the atlas crank is primarily a free ride crank which would add a bunch of weight for no reason.

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    496
    I had a banshee headset on another bike and it was flawless, despite not looking as fancy as some other brands. Nice build btw

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the more upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedalling less upright .

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170510_132743.jpg
    Last edited by bullit43; 05-11-2017 at 07:29 AM.

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    In all honesty, does it feel bad in this new position or just different? Curious as I don't like the newer steep STA a lot of modern bikes are coming with, have to use a setback post to get where I like to sit relative to the BB on my Phantom. Not dissing the steeper setting either as that's how I've run mine for the last 3 years, never felt like I needed the slacker angles really for the more general nature of the rides I like to do - lots of pedaling along flats, rolling, climbing and descending. I'm now trying mine is the middle position to see how it goes, since I run it's big brother in the slack position and get along fine like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the moral upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedaling less upright .
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    HI there,this weekend I'm going to try the other geometry setting,with the dropouts on the moral upright position,after my Patrol I feel that I'm pedalling less upright .

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170510_132743.jpg 
Views:	106 
Size:	87.4 KB 
ID:	1136657
    It looks like your dropouts are already in the steeper position.

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    I mean, trying on the steeper position and less slacked.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    I mean, trying on the steeper position and less slacked.
    In that picture the way you have the dropouts the frame/BB is in its high/steep setting. If you reverse the dropouts form whats shown in the pic the bike will be lower and slacker

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    How do I stop this from happening? 2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_4701.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_4708.jpg

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Start the chainstay wrap forward of where you're getting the chain contact, instead of so far back Also, you could try running a bigger ring. Check chain length, might be too long. Run a long cage RD to keep the chain further down from the stays. The things you can do are many, but wrapping the chainstay all the way to the front of the actual stay would be the first thing to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    How do I stop this from happening? [ATTACH=CONFIG]1137487[/ATTACH
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    cool i'll re-wrap it further forward. i'm running a 32t narrow wide and it's a 1x11 XT Shimano drive train that's been pretty bomb proof so far. and yes the clutch has been and is still engaged. might even drop a link out of the chain too to see if that helps

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by DenyEverything View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_1104-01.jpg 
Views:	139 
Size:	125.7 KB 
ID:	1128988

    That's with the 34t position closest to the chainstay^. Chainline appears to be 56mm, haven't really checked if that's ideal or not.

    Yes LyNx, I'm 6'4" and with long arms. It's got the 142mm dropouts, was going to get 148 but wheelset availability was a slight issue when I ordered. Dropouts are in the slack position, so with the 130mm fork I should have a nice 67 HA!
    what kind of adhesive did you use for the rubber on the chainstay? i'm' having a chain slap issue right there on that spot

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: geoya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    41
    you may find it stupid but it works.
    if it works it ain't stupid, right?

    check out "liquid electrical tape" at any hardware store.
    Basically it's liquid vinyl, and you can put it on any shaped object. You can put a thicker layer as well.
    I'm still building the bike so no real-life test but I see no reason for it to fail.
    Here is the photo, It's just fist try, maybe I'll cover add, depending on how my chainring will look installed.
    Also it's removable, able to peel it off.
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-screen-shot-2017-05-16-3.06.47-pm.jpg


    also 3m 2228 tape works just fine. It has adhesive layer and you can either wrap it around or simply put one layer on top.
    super easy to work with, removable and easy to cut or fit onto odd-shaped areas.
    not sure how it'll handle pressure washing that way.

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Be careful with shortening the chain, make sure you let all the air out of the shock, or un-bolt it so you can cycle the suspension through it's full range and there is chain growth and you don't want a too short chain to rip off your RD.

    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    cool i'll re-wrap it further forward. i'm running a 32t narrow wide and it's a 1x11 XT Shimano drive train that's been pretty bomb proof so far. and yes the clutch has been and is still engaged. might even drop a link out of the chain too to see if that helps
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    496
    Quote Originally Posted by kanobee View Post
    How do I stop this from happening?
    I use sticky velcro in that spot on my other bikes

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,241
    Quote Originally Posted by Creg View Post
    I use sticky velcro in that spot on my other bikes
    Yup, the soft side of sticky velcro (heavy duty stuff) has been my go to for years, it keeps things quiet and protects the paint well, is cheap and easy to apply.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    5
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-prime.jpg


  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    thanks guys, velcro installed and i'll test it out today

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: titusquasi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,423
    Quote Originally Posted by SammyB View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Prime.jpg 
Views:	134 
Size:	146.4 KB 
ID:	1137549

    I would love to see more pics of the orange Prime!

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Be careful with shortening the chain, make sure you let all the air out of the shock, or un-bolt it so you can cycle the suspension through it's full range and there is chain growth and you don't want a too short chain to rip off your RD.
    So I have this same problem running a Shimano 1x11 xt GS derauiller and a race face 30T N/W chain ring which is even smaller. Which makes the chain even closer then picture shown.

    Any recommendations on solutions it seems I may be able to take a little slack out of chain but then I'm worried about the problem mentioned above with the chain growth.

    The shop put all my parts on from another frame i owned wondering i if they just left the chain as is and didn't shorten it if needed.

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    496
    You get contact there no matter what, that's why mot carbon frames have a bit of aluminium stuck in that spot.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,241
    3 most likely causes for excessive chainslap in that location are:

    #1 Chain is too long and derailleur isn't capable of tensioning it properly.
    #2 Derailleur spring has lost tension (happens to them all over time, one reason to shift to smallest cog at end of every ride before storing bike).
    #3 Clutch needs servicing in derailleur.

    Other factors like b tension screw adustment, and chain stretch can also be factors.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  88. #88
    No Clue Crew
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    6,744
    #2. Interesting point that I've never heard before in my life. Totally makes sense.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  89. #89
    Incredulous bastard
    Reputation: no one in particular's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    246
    So after breaking three V1s, I'm taking a chance on a new Spitfire. It feels odd after being stuck on my fat bike since December, but it's good to not have my back and wrists not killing me after big ride.

    I still need to drop the fork down to 140mm from 160mm because I measure the AC on this 350 to be 562mm, and it needs to be 542mm. It certainly feels wrong right now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170523_182138.jpg  

    __________________

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amrayo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    67

    my turn...

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-spitty.jpg

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    3 most likely causes for excessive chainslap in that location are:

    #1 Chain is too long and derailleur isn't capable of tensioning it properly.
    #2 Derailleur spring has lost tension (happens to them all over time, one reason to shift to smallest cog at end of every ride before storing bike).
    #3 Clutch needs servicing in derailleur.

    Other factors like b tension screw adustment, and chain stretch can also be factors.
    well i'm happy to report that removing two links and placing a small piece of velcro (thanks guys for the suggestion) that everything is sound and smooth with no slap happening any longer. we are all good here now

  92. #92
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I was out and about on my 2017 Prime today, and I made some observations:
    • ****ing sweet bike
    • able to handle random air very well
    • 34T chainring may be a bit too big
    • confidence inspiring


    The only thing that bugged me was the shock, a Monarch Plus. It's set with the low/low tune for rebound and compression damping. Rebound seemed fine, but compression was a little harsh. I ran it open all the time. Used all the travel on a couple of landings without any harsh bottom out. I'm thinking about my options...
    • keep riding for a while to see if it breaks in and mellows out
    • DVO Topaz
    • Fox Float X2
    • CCDBA
    • Put on a Debonair can

    Can I make it a little more plush/compliant somehow? The fork [MRP Ribbon] is super tunable, and was almost spot-on with factory settings. I'm coming off an Ibis Mojo HD and Norco Aurum, both with CCDBAs, so that's my frame of reference.
    I've made some changes to my Prime over the last few weeks:
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-05-18-12.13.26.jpg

    Brakes have been changed to XT. The SRAM Guide RSC just didn't feel great. Changed to a 30T front ring, which is working much better on the steeper climbs. The rear shock is still not 100% to my liking. It still feel like there's more compression damping than I'd like, even in Open mode.

  93. #93
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by amrayo View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	spitty.jpg 
Views:	112 
Size:	153.0 KB 
ID:	1139186
    Nice. Love the black ano frames. My Prime frame spent a week on the stand in the garage before I built it. I enjoyed just admiring the bare frame, and almost hated to bolt used parts onto it.
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amrayo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Nice. Love the black ano frames. My Prime frame spent a week on the stand in the garage before I built it. I enjoyed just admiring the bare frame, and almost hated to bolt used parts onto it.
    I'm still waiting for some parts
    meanwhile, I have my trusty Wildcard to ride

  95. #95
    Incredulous bastard
    Reputation: no one in particular's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by no one in particular View Post
    I still need to drop the fork down to 140mm from 160mm because I measure the AC on this 350 to be 562mm, and it needs to be 542mm. It certainly feels wrong right now.
    I couldn't take the goofy long AC on the 350CM. I lowered the fork down to 140mm after that first ride. 3 more rides later and this bike is really feeling like home now.

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170530_184023.jpg
    __________________

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    So I think I am getting a little bit of creak from the dropouts although it maybe the bottom bracket, but it really sounds like it's coming from the very rear of the bike.

    It only happens on load while pedaling fairly hard can happen for a bit and will go away the rest of the ride or multiple rides. Then suddenly be back again. Not the seatpost or saddle as I have had them completely off and it still occurs.

    Does anyone grease their dropouts lightly and if so do you all grease the bottom of the actual flip chip as well as the dropouts themselves.

    Not sure of the BB or dropouts are the more likely cause.

  97. #97
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    514
    Yep, I'd try a touch of grease on the chips and bolt threads.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    339
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Yep, I'd try a touch of grease on the chips and bolt threads.
    A bit of grease on contact points to the frame of the actual dropouts as well?

    Thanks.

  99. #99
    Braaap
    Reputation: DirtMerchantBicycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    514
    Can't hurt, just give everything a good wipe down once assembled.
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    37
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-image.jpg
    Been riding the new Legend for a couple of weeks so it's about to put up a pic. I had the proto mk1 then the mk2 a few years back now back on the latest edition. So stoked on it!

  101. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Hi there,have you figured out what´s the Deboanair can for the Monarch Plus?

  102. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Hi there,have you figured out what´s the Deboanair can for the Monarch Plus?
    SRAM said use 00.4018.783.007 part number for a upgrade. trying to decide if that's the route i wanna go now

  103. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amrayo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    67

    finally built

    weight: ~ 13.9 including everything
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Banshee Build Thread-19642385_10203795156474975_42133099555481842_n.jpg  


  104. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Hi there, I have three option, sell the Monarch Debonair and buy a CaneCreek Inline IL ,or buy the Debonair can such I'll spend less money,Monarch Can it's 125€, the Monarch there's a guy that offers me 200€ but I have to put more 270€ for the Cane creek,don't no what to do...

  105. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amrayo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    67
    the DB Inline works great, when it works, but then, a lot of the times it doesn't...

  106. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    It's the IL not the original one that was more prone to failure and with a hasher ride

  107. #107
    Gloworm Lights
    Reputation: Gloworm Manufacture's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    446

    Prime with 160mm Fork

    This was built after a lot of thought into the length of fork.

    The decision was made to go with the Fox 36 160mm after careful consideration into ride characteristics and consultation of some reviews - Plus some theory using this site geometryCalc

    With the resultant BB height being only 5.4mm higher, I knew this wasnt going to be an issue. Well thats the theory.

    The beast has been ridden once so far and all I can say is WOW. I come from a Rune and the Prime pedals better (29er factor?) and descends just as well.

    Now I just need to test on some jumps!


    2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-07-20-13.08.58.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170719_170917.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170719_170941.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-20170719_171001.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-07-19-17.10.43.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-07-19-17.11.39.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-2017-07-19-17.12.02.jpg
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  108. #108
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Sweet-looking ride! With the 2017s being slacker, and with the 160 fork, that ought to be a beastly bike!
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Is it blue on one side and white on the other or did you buy two of whatever that is?

  109. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Definitely is a BEAST, wonder how it climbs with, as you said the new slacker HTA and then the longer fork? I run my PP with a 150mm in the slack setting and it still climbs fairly well and bombs like a tank. Is that a 2.5" or 3.0" DHF? Looks pretty freaking huge.
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Sweet-looking ride! With the 2017s being slacker, and with the 160 fork, that ought to be a beastly bike!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  110. #110
    Gloworm Lights
    Reputation: Gloworm Manufacture's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    446
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Definitely is a BEAST, wonder how it climbs with, as you said the new slacker HTA and then the longer fork? I run my PP with a 150mm in the slack setting and it still climbs fairly well and bombs like a tank. Is that a 2.5" or 3.0" DHF? Looks pretty freaking huge.
    Climbs really well considering - better than the rune. Using the site I attached in my post I worked out that with 25% SAG on the fork the stack and BB are only 4.8mm higher. The only trail I've climbed with it was steepish with wet roots and it went very well!

    Regards the tyre, its a DHF Minion WT (2.5) on 35 wide halo vapour35 rims.
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  111. #111
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    100
    KS link is a DW link. If banshee were larger Weagle would probably try legal action like he did to Giant.

  112. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    5,407
    Quote Originally Posted by Veggibiker View Post
    KS link is a DW link. If banshee were larger Weagle would probably try legal action like he did to Giant.
    Really? That's pretty interesting.

  113. #113
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    100
    I think so..if you read Weagles patent claims, KS link is a direct infringement. Maybe Banshee sends Weagle a check?

  114. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Done,bought that debonair Kit for my Monarch plus and it imediately transfromed my Spitfire ina better steed on the rough. Using it with 190 psi and 2 rubber bands for a 72 kg rider

  115. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Captain_America1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,281
    Here's mine. Original configuration was 29+ front wheel with 140mm fork with 29 x 2.6 rear.
    Name:  prime.jpg
Views: 2655
Size:  76.4 KB
    It's currently set up with 27.5 x 3 rear with 29+ front and fork at 140. The 3" rear is rubbing a bit, so I will go down to 2.8 soon. The fork is going to be extended to 160, and I will go with the 27.5 x 3 front wheel. There is about a half pound difference from 29/29+ to 27.5+
    Basic build is large Prime with
    Fox 34 27.5+ fork
    Carbon rims laced to Hope hubs
    Fox Transfer
    XT 1 x 11 drivetrain with Race Face SL cranks with 30T oval ring
    Answer 20/20 carbon bars
    Ergon grips
    SQ Lab 611 saddle

    This bike absolutely rips.

    My one issue is a creek that I can't chase down. So far I have checked and regreased cranks, BB, and pedals. It creaks in the saddle or out, so I don't think it's the post. Any ideas?

  116. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Regrease the seatpost,i had that issue and it solved,try to understand if it makes the creak when seated or not

  117. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    My one issue is a creek that I can't chase down. So far I have checked and regreased cranks, BB, and pedals. It creaks in the saddle or out, so I don't think it's the post. Any ideas?
    My Spitfire headset creaks no matter what I do. So I just ride a creaky bike. It's that persistent. Might check yours!

  118. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Captain_America1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,281
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Regrease the seatpost,i had that issue and it solved,try to understand if it makes the creak when seated or not
    I thought about doing this, but the whole out of the saddle issue made me abandon it. I will give it a try.

    Lithified: I will check the headset too.

  119. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    38
    The headset that came on my new phantom was creaky too. I replaced it with the cane creek from the previous frame and it's been silent ever since.

  120. #120
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    Finally jumped the shark.

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-zaxrzu0.jpg
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  121. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    Finally jumped the shark.
    Well doesn't that check all the boxes?! Sweet! The red and teal works.

    Some bikes look fast standing still. Spitfires look like they rail corners standing still...



    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

  122. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Very nice, best it looks even nicer in person. Curious what rims and tyre width you're running on there?
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    Finally jumped the shark.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	zAXrZU0.jpg 
Views:	256 
Size:	165.7 KB 
ID:	1149502
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  123. #123
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    Cheers guys.
    The wheels are DT E1700's.
    Front tyre is a Minion DHRII 2.4WT
    Rear tyre is an Aggressor 2.3.
    Haven't got a good ride on them yet, dropped a few psi from my old wheels.

  124. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Curious how much clearance you have around the stays and which drop outs you used? With the old V1 KS, a few guys were running 650B with regular drop outs, not many ran very big tyres even with the 650B dedicated longer drop outs, so now curious that we have 2.6-2.8" tyres available how clearance would be with something along those lines
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    Cheers guys.
    The wheels are DT E1700's.
    Front tyre is a Minion DHRII 2.4WT
    Rear tyre is an Aggressor 2.3.
    Haven't got a good ride on them yet, dropped a few psi from my old wheels.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  125. #125
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    I've only got short dropouts at the moment, but there's 10mm back side of clearance on the Aggressors.
    You might get a 2.6 in there, with the long dropouts.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  126. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    262
    Well, well... I need some advices. I went for a nice ride last weekend with my buddy who rode for the first time jus YT Jeffsy 29''.
    I threw my legs on it for a few kilometers. First a flat section, with little obstacles and then a very nice downhill single track.
    If I was not so impressed in the downhill section and a little bit perturbed by the wagon wheels, I must say a big WOW for the acceleration and the "fly over the obstacles" in the flat part.
    The Jeffsy is lighter than my Spitfire. The frame is carbon. The tyres were normal for me (Onza Ibex in 2.4''). The rear shock is a RS Monarch RT3 (comparing to an old and never serviced CCDB Air NOT CS).

    It felt pretty much more dynamic on pedaling sections. Can the rear shock be the most important factor? If I swap my CCDB AIR for a Monarch RT3 in the correct setting, will I have some more dynamic?

    What's about the differences between a standard RT3 and a Debonair ?

    Thanks for your help, advice, ideas !

  127. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    70
    I didn't like the monarch plus rc3 on my spitfire and replaced it with a manitou mcleod. If your shock is dialled in properly it should be a better shock than the monarch.
    The jeffsy has a different suspension design than a spitfire (4 bar if i'm not mistaken vs the ks link). I think that's the difference you're feeling, not the shock itself.

  128. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    262
    Thanks!
    Happy with the McLeod? I have à Mattoc up front, so switching to a Manitou rear shock is a possibility. I'm very happy with the Mattoc.


    Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

  129. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    70
    Really happy with it. Very responsive shock and completely self serviceable. (and cheap in comparison to other shock manufacturers, payed only 190€ for it)

  130. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    262

    2017 Banshee Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by hurck View Post
    Really happy with it. Very responsive shock and completely self serviceable. (and cheap in comparison to other shock manufacturers, payed only 190€ for it)
    Thanks a lot. thinking to try this way also. Not much expensive as an used Monarch.
    Do you know if there is any different base settings which I should care of?

    Do you have the king can ?

  131. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    70
    I would try it as it comes, the 4 ipa settings offer very different damping. From very light to firm platform.

    I recently bought a second hand mcleod which included a king can for my prime. But I'm still toying around with it since I only have it about 2 weeks. Too early to tell if it's a huge difference to the standard can. It did take some more psi to get proper sag.

  132. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    71
    Have the 2014 phantom and looking to get a new shock. I have the CCDB and it was working ok the first yr or so, now it just ride so stiff almost like a hardtail. Anyone try the DVO topaz? Fox or the Marnach?

  133. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Why not send it off to get serviced, fairly certain after 2 years use, it's in need? As for other shocks, I just borrowed a friends RT3 from his Following as he's injured and I liked it, but tune was off, too much ramp up at the end of stroke it seemed, but it had very good small bump compliance compared to my 3+ year old 02 RCX that is in need of a major service. Sadly for me that would be in the region of $200-250 US since I don't live in the US or any major country, which is about what you can pick up a Monarch for, so trying to make a decision
    Quote Originally Posted by ahtune69 View Post
    Have the 2014 phantom and looking to get a new shock. I have the CCDB and it was working ok the first yr or so, now it just ride so stiff almost like a hardtail. Anyone try the DVO topaz? Fox or the Marnach?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  134. #134
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Quote Originally Posted by ahtune69 View Post
    Have the 2014 phantom and looking to get a new shock. I have the CCDB and it was working ok the first yr or so, now it just ride so stiff almost like a hardtail. Anyone try the DVO topaz? Fox or the Marnach?
    Definitely get that CCDB serviced before giving up on it. If it used to feel good, it can likely be fixed, and for far less than a new shock.

    That said, I have about 2 weeks on a DVO Topaz on my 2017 Prime. I was using the stock Rock Shox Monarch Plus with L/L tune for the last few months, and I wish I would have made the switch ages ago. The DVO is much more smooth and supple compared to the Monarch through the initial and mid-stroke. Ramp-up at the end is about the same, but I haven't fiddled with the volume spacers yet. Assuming the Phantom has roughly the same kinematics as the Prime, I'd definitely try the Topaz on it if the CCDB can't be fixed.

  135. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Was wondering about the Topaz and sizing for the Phantom, didn't think they offered the correct size, but you must have checked. Well I got more curious and checked and in fact, they don't offer the right size 184x44, they only do 190x50, so you'd be taking a gamble with if it'll fit properly and what the extra length would do to the suspension curve etc. If it was a cheap shock, I'd say go for it, I was tempted to pick up a cheap shock in that size to give it a go, but no way would I guess with a $450 USD shock. No experience with DVO, so not sure if they maybe offer custom lengths if you ask for an upcharge or if that shock can even do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  136. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    71
    I was going to rebuild the shock myself like I do on my Fox shocks but they don't sell any kits for the CCDB. Everything is done in house and cost $200 each time. So I'm looking for something that I can rebuild myself. I like the DVO but like LyNx said they only make the 190x50. I guess the only other choice thats proven to run nice on the Phantom would be the Monarch. Has anyone use the fox stuff on these bikes with good results?

  137. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Ah, so in the same boat as me then, cept mine gets expensive because of the shipping. Actually, the just released DPX2 from Fox is available in 184x44 I asked Keith about using one and he said that unless I had long continuous DHs over 5 minutes, then wasn't probably worth it, but I'm curious about being able to tune the piggyback side of things, but like the DVO, little expensive to be using for trial and error.

    Quote Originally Posted by ahtune69 View Post
    I was going to rebuild the shock myself like I do on my Fox shocks but they don't sell any kits for the CCDB. Everything is done in house and cost $200 each time. So I'm looking for something that I can rebuild myself. I like the DVO but like LyNx said they only make the 190x50. I guess the only other choice thats proven to run nice on the Phantom would be the Monarch. Has anyone use the fox stuff on these bikes with good results?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  138. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Climbs really well considering - better than the rune. Using the site I attached in my post I worked out that with 25% SAG on the fork the stack and BB are only 4.8mm higher. The only trail I've climbed with it was steepish with wet roots and it went very well!

    Regards the tyre, its a DHF Minion WT (2.5) on 35 wide halo vapour35 rims.
    Been a few months now Gloworm...how is that rad bike riding? Pretty much nailed the bike I dream about....liking it? Do you know what it weighs? Using the Fox X2 climb switch much? I have that same shock on my Spitfire and I do use the switch quite a bit and love it.

  139. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20171012_130830.jpg
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20171012_103708.jpg

  140. #140
    BH1
    BH1 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BH1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    189
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    Not many of us have Amps, but here's mine:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2017-03-30 17.02.58.jpg 
Views:	288 
Size:	161.1 KB 
ID:	1129932
    Mostly old parts on this, but I think it came together pretty well.

    Frame: Banshee Amp, long, raw/purple
    Fork: Rock Shox Argyle
    Brake: Shimano SLX, 160
    Wheels: Hope Pro 2 Evo / Mavic 823
    Tires: Larsen TT 2.0
    Crank: Truvativ Stylo
    BB: GXP
    Chainring: Blackspire N/W 30T
    Cog: Gusset
    Chain: Dura-Ace 10spd
    Pedals: Gusset
    Bar: Easton Havoc Carbon
    Stem: Chromag Hi-Fi
    Grips: Deity
    Seat: Chromag Lynx DT
    Post: CRC
    Are the stickers removable on the raw Amp frame? Or are they under a clear coat?

  141. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    Banshee does not use stickers, they use very thin, wet applicable decals which are then clear coated over on painted frames.
    Quote Originally Posted by BH1 View Post
    Are the stickers removable on the raw Amp frame? Or are they under a clear coat?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  142. #142
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,185
    Quote Originally Posted by BH1 View Post
    Are the stickers removable on the raw Amp frame? Or are they under a clear coat?
    They are under the clearcoat. If you really wanted to, I suppose you could sand through the clear coat, sand off the decal and then respray with clear. It would be easier to just strip or media blast the entire frame and then respray clear to keep it shiny.

  143. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    Now with Cane Creek suspension .

    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20180222_114518.jpg
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-20180222_114526.jpg

  144. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    53
    I stripped my raw one used aircraft paint stripper and pressure washed it . Wasn't horrible but would media blast it next time

  145. #145
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    2017 Banshee Build Thread-nu5azws.jpg
    New coil shock, makes a big difference.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  146. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	nU5AZwS.jpg 
Views:	180 
Size:	121.4 KB 
ID:	1190104
    New coil shock, makes a big difference.
    I had that shock on my Spit for a while and struggled with bottom out control. Post up after you've had it for a while with thoughts.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  147. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    26
    I just recently put an inline coil on my 17 rune (L) and am liking it. I ride east coast where its rocky af and our descents are pretty rough. I'm 170 with riding gear, using a 400lb spring. I gave her an extra twist of preload running 20% sag. So far i have not bottomed any more than i was on the x2 it replaced. Maybe my riding style? I like it over air, it has made the rune much more playful where as the x2 just felt numb to me... Idk, just my input.

    ** I had been expecting to bottom frequently from other comments here, and was watching for it.

  148. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    160
    I just built this up a few weeks ago with the build from my SB6. Loving the Rune!




  149. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    I just built this up a few weeks ago with the build from my SB6. Loving the Rune!



    Looks great!! Thoughts versus the SB6?

  150. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Looks great!! Thoughts versus the SB6?
    After riding the SB6 for two seasons, I came to the conclusion that the bike is a great weapon when you are ripping down trails. Technical AZ climbing was not as good as it could be, but overall the SB6 is really efficient and crushes DH. Very fast, very stable, easy to manage long sweeping turns at high speed. Day to day riding was suffering a little due to the long chainstay and broad anti squat curve.

    This Rune is really close to the Yeti in stability at high speed - it's a razor thin margin that leans towards the SB6. Technical climbing is easier with the KS suspension - the rear wheel tracks the ground better under power compared to the Switch Infinity. Directional changes are much easier with the Rune - the back end isn't so hard to get around. Some tight switchbacks feel like i have a huge margin of error compared to the SB6.

    All in all here are the main differences compared to the SB6:
    - not quite as stable when at the limit (extremely small difference and i have a DHX2 that i need to try on the Rune for a true test of high speed stability)
    - rocks make a lot of noise bouncing off the metal
    - superior pedaling kinematics for technical climbing
    - handling is much snappier (160 fork with normal setting on flip chips)
    - overall bike weight is comparable (the Rune is super light for an aluminum 160 mm frame) and no need to worry about crashing into rocks

    Apples to apples, both bikes are amazing. The Yeti feels like a true race oriented bike while the Rune is a bit more relaxed, but could still win EWS with the right rider.

    I did some shuttle runs on Sunday in the slack setting - WOW!!! So fast, and still super easy to navigate tight turns. Looking forward to bike park season!!

  151. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Good feedback. Love the comment about rocks on metal. Totally agreed sometimes it's quite the racket!

    I've gone back and forth between slack and normal recently and the corner smashing capability just explodes when you drop it into slack! Well, hope you enjoy that thing.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  152. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pauleta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    I had that shock on my Spit for a while and struggled with bottom out control. Post up after you've had it for a while with thoughts.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Great colour choice! Are those grips Ergon GA2 Blue or GE1 Evo?

  153. #153
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauleta View Post
    Great colour choice! Are those grips Ergon GA2 Blue or GE1 Evo?
    On my bike? They're a GA2 in blue, which is a perfect match for a teal Spitfire.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  154. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pauleta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    On my bike? They're a GA2 in blue, which is a perfect match for a teal Spitfire.
    Thanks John!

  155. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381

    Banshee Prime - Raw + Red

    Hi all,
    I took delivery after a month wait of my XL Raw + Red Banshee Prime.

    The decision to choose one of these was drawn out and protracted. Like most, I thought I had a view of what I would buy when the opportunity arose. When it actually came about I was stumped.

    I'm 1.93m, 95kgs and seem to be pretty tough on bikes.
    My 2015 MY Trek Fuel EX 9.9, which I loved died, in the line of duty and I decided that as much as I loved it, it was too frail. Time to get something more robust.

    I needed a proper XL frame, and when one looks at the geometry it seems lots of brands have gone insane on short chain stays. So looking at some bikes it means when you get on an XL the rear centre gets shorter and shorter. This meant for me that the rear wheel was right under me and didn't feel the way I wanted, especially on descents.

    The shortlist was:
    Intense Primer (liked the geo and rear centre / not the press fit BB, no ISCG 05 mounts and boost)

    Norco Sight (liked the general geo + size specific shock tune and frame tubing profile / not the press fit BB and shorter rear end strangely)

    Banshee Prime (loved the look, geo, adapability, ISCG 05 mounts, / only marginally put off by 2 yr warranty + weight)

    After lots of thought I decided the Banshee was the best way forward.

    I'd be porting over some elements from the Fuel EX but then saw a few items to put on it and kept going so the only things coming over were the wheels, brakes, dropper & cranks.

    Here's the full spec and some photos from the build.
    Frame: Banshee Prime XL, raw and red finish
    Fork: Rockshox Lyrik RCT3 160mm
    Shock: Fox Factory X2
    Wheels: Light Bicycle rims on Bontrager Rythmn Pro Rapid Drive Hubs
    Tyres: Front Maxxis Forecaster 2.35, Exo TR, Rear Maxxis Ardent 2.40, Exo TR. (Forekaster going on soon)
    Stem: Hope AM 35mm, 35mm diameter
    Handlebars: Raceface NextR 35mm x 800mm 35mm rise
    Headset: Hope
    Seat collar: Hope
    Seat Post: Rockshox Reverb 125mm drop
    Saddle: Bontrager Montrose Pro carbon.
    Brakes: Shimano XT M8000
    Shifter: Shimano XT M8000 11 speed
    Cranks: Shimano XT M8000 175mm
    Front chainring: Shimano XT 34t
    Cassette: Sunrace 11sp 11 to 46t
    Bottom bracket: Shimano XT
    Pedals: Shimano XT
    Chainguide: One Up ISCG05
    Grips: Oury Rogue Lock on
    Bar ends: Hope

    Frame unboxed
    Name:  20180413_192057.jpg
Views: 1478
Size:  70.4 KB

    Parts ready for the build
    Name:  20180413_194738.jpg
Views: 1478
Size:  77.2 KB

    The complete build
    Name:  IMG_20180414_171854_802.jpg
Views: 1470
Size:  56.7 KB

    Expecting good things from the X2
    Name:  20180414_164308.jpg
Views: 1484
Size:  96.7 KB

    And the Lyrik at 160mm
    Name:  20180414_164156.jpg
Views: 1456
Size:  95.4 KB

    Might need to trim a cable or two..
    Name:  20180414_164127.jpg
Views: 1495
Size:  105.2 KB

    Ride report to come but so far it feels very nice. I'm uncertain about the forks at 160mm and so might change them to 150 or put on my Fox 34 at 140mm.

    The only other element I'm not sure about are the wheels. They're lovely and stiff as they were built that way but the ID profile is more XC / light trail than Trail + and so the front tyre feels a lot less planted than it does on my Trek Remedy with ID 29mm. We'll see.

    Either way, loving the way it looks and will spend time dialing it all in.

    Thanks for reading!

  156. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    5,407
    Nice build on the Prime.

    I wonder how "light" you can build one?

  157. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Hi all,
    Name:  20180414_164127.jpg
Views: 1495
Size:  105.2 KB
    Man that shot right there...lots of fun times from that POV to be had. Looks great! Very curious what you find on fork travel preferences and a full ride report!

    Here are my specs for my X2 on Spitfire, I weigh about 185-190 all geared up and ready to ride. I may have made a couple very minor tweaks since recording these, but should be very close if you want to toy around with it. Also curios why the Lyrik and not a 36 up front? Was that deliberate, or did you already have the Lyrik?

    All turns are CCW from full closed

    X2
    Psi: 175 for 17.5mm sag
    HSC: 17
    LSC: 19
    HSR: 15
    LSR: 18

  158. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Man that shot right there...lots of fun times from that POV to be had. Looks great! Very curious what you find on fork travel preferences and a full ride report!

    Here are my specs for my X2 on Spitfire, I weigh about 185-190 all geared up and ready to ride. I may have made a couple very minor tweaks since recording these, but should be very close if you want to toy around with it. Also curios why the Lyrik and not a 36 up front? Was that deliberate, or did you already have the Lyrik?

    All turns are CCW from full closed

    X2
    Psi: 175 for 17.5mm sag
    HSC: 17
    LSC: 19
    HSR: 15
    LSR: 18
    Thanks! I must admit I'm very happy to own it and some of the frame details are beautiful. When I took it to a LBS to have the headset cups installed they just stared at it and techs were just drooling. That's never happened for me before.

    Yes, I had the Lyrik already and a Fox 34 Factory at 140mm too. I shall see how I prefer to ride it.
    Thanks for your setting too. I take it the Compression settings are from full open, and the rebound from slow?

    I've had about 190 PSI and it did need more air. LSC was all the way closed and it still didn't behave the way I wanted it to. After that I upped it to about 205 and that looked more like 30% by eye. Yet to ride it on this and I guess it'll need time to feel perfect. Loving the adjustability though. :^)

  159. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Thanks! I must admit I'm very happy to own it and some of the frame details are beautiful. When I took it to a LBS to have the headset cups installed they just stared at it and techs were just drooling. That's never happened for me before.

    Yes, I had the Lyrik already and a Fox 34 Factory at 140mm too. I shall see how I prefer to ride it.
    Thanks for your setting too. I take it the Compression settings are from full open, and the rebound from slow?

    I've had about 190 PSI and it did need more air. LSC was all the way closed and it still didn't behave the way I wanted it to. After that I upped it to about 205 and that looked more like 30% by eye. Yet to ride it on this and I guess it'll need time to feel perfect. Loving the adjustability though. :^)
    Right on man, I understand that! I have a buddy who has offered to bro-deal me a Fox 36 160 29 so hope to get it all sorted soon. All of my adjustments are CCW from fully closed adjustments....e.g. fully tighten to the right, then my counts are clicks toward left.

  160. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Right on man, I understand that! I have a buddy who has offered to bro-deal me a Fox 36 160 29 so hope to get it all sorted soon. All of my adjustments are CCW from fully closed adjustments....e.g. fully tighten to the right, then my counts are clicks toward left.
    Nice, thanks. I've got to admit the 160 might be 10mm / 20mm too far. I don't want an enduro plow but the Lyrik is such a nice fork. I believe that with the shock pressure too low it was sagging on climbs so felt a little slower than I'd expected (albeit coming of a Fuel EX 9.9 so it's going to be).

    It'll take me about a month of solid riding at the weekends to nail the settings. Looking forward to it though!

  161. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    As said, sweet looking build. As to the fork and travel, all depends on what your trails are like and if you plan to keep the Remedy or settle on just one bike. For me, the Prime with a 140mm is very nice in the slack setting, a monster pointed DH and still climbs excellent, put a 150mm on it and you can decide if to stay in the slack setting or move it to the steep for more BB clearance and help keep climbing manners in check.

    To me a 160mm fork on the Prime would make it too heavily biased towards DH, so if that's your thing great, if not 140-150mm.

    As to wheels, yeah, you want something in the i29 range for a bike like the Prime, anything less just doesn't feel right when it's shod with appropriate rubber. If you can borrow a set of B+ wheels and tyres, you should give that a go, really worked well on mine and added to the Monster Truck feel of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Hi all,
    I took delivery after a month wait of my XL Raw + Red Banshee Prime..............Ride report to come but so far it feels very nice. I'm uncertain about the forks at 160mm and so might change them to 150 or put on my Fox 34 at 140mm.

    The only other element I'm not sure about are the wheels. They're lovely and stiff as they were built that way but the ID profile is more XC / light trail than Trail + and so the front tyre feels a lot less planted than it does on my Trek Remedy with ID 29mm. We'll see.

    Either way, loving the way it looks and will spend time dialing it all in.

    Thanks for reading!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  162. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    As said, sweet looking build. As to the fork and travel, all depends on what your trails are like and if you plan to keep the Remedy or settle on just one bike. For me, the Prime with a 140mm is very nice in the slack setting, a monster pointed DH and still climbs excellent, put a 150mm on it and you can decide if to stay in the slack setting or move it to the steep for more BB clearance and help keep climbing manners in check.

    To me a 160mm fork on the Prime would make it too heavily biased towards DH, so if that's your thing great, if not 140-150mm.

    As to wheels, yeah, you want something in the i29 range for a bike like the Prime, anything less just doesn't feel right when it's shod with appropriate rubber. If you can borrow a set of B+ wheels and tyres, you should give that a go, really worked well on mine and added to the Monster Truck feel of it.
    Thanks Lynx,
    I am still working the bike out but it feels great at the moment. Ride report in the next post. You are 100% correct on the wheels though. Loving the versatility of this bike so far..

    I plan on keeping the Remedy and so there is some overlap but I can feel the difference in the wheelsize as well as the suspension. Remedy is better in the air but I've only had two rides on the Prime to date.

  163. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Ride report.

    After an initial short shakedown run I upped the shock pressure from 190 PSI to 215, it was way too low. I backed off the LSC 4 clicks and gave it another go.
    It's running the compact chips, in the steep position.

    The first thing is this bike actually pedals very well. I'm still getting some pedal bob which might well be due to LSC setting or my technique but the climb switch handles almost all of it nicely.

    General trail manners.
    The handling is first class. It carves and hooks up beautifully as well as maintaining speed across the trail. Its comfortable relaxed and just feels very planted yet adustable if that mskes sense. I can put it where i want it without fighting it. Whilst I did have concerns about how it might ride with such a long fork on it I needn't have.

    Climbing.
    As i said, it climbs well. I did think after the first ride that it was going to be tough going but that was my error in set up. Even with the 160mm fork it tracks well and doesn't flop or wheelie.
    It's never going to be the same as my Fuel EX 9.9 (RIP) but then it's certainly good enough and I'm not really pushing uphill at all. It just climbs with composure and grace. Its also great in the few rock gardens I have ridden it in.

    Descending.
    Damn... I'm trying to pace myself and not go too hard too soon but it's futile. This bike rips when pointing downhill. Easily the measure of my Remedy which I love. The rear is super comfortable and composed, and I am astounded by how unshakably the rear tracks the ground. When it jumps, the landing is plush, supported and doesn't bounce. X2 beats Rockshox Monarch RE:Active.

    The only thing letting the bike down, and this is my fault, is the ID of the wheels. It needs wider rims on it so that is the next point of order.

    I could probably get away using the wheels on it with the 140mm Fox 34, but with the Lyrik it's asking for issues. I've found the odd touch of vagueness in the front which is the tyre flexing on the rim.

    Overall, the bike is a landing a solid 8/10 and once I've sorted the wheels and maybe a little minor tweak on suspension set up I'd expect that to be higher.
    Needless to say so far I'm VERY happy with my choice. And interestingly whilst out on the trails I saw one of the other bikes which was in contention before making the decision to go Banshee, and whilst it looked very nice it didn't appeal to me as much as this.

    Thanks for reading!

  164. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Only 1 lap at my local trail so far but lots more to come. I'll post a review after some more saddle time, just stoked to share a shot of Black Betty....

    2018 Prime, large
    Fox 36 RC2 160mm
    Fox X2
    Guide RSC
    GX
    OneUp 170 dropper
    Braaaaaaap



  165. #165
    26 for life.
    Reputation: KiwiJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    536
    Nice build.
    What chain guide/bash guard are you running. I really need a bash guard.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  166. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Only 1 lap at my local trail so far but lots more to come. I'll post a review after some more saddle time, just stoked to share a shot of Black Betty....

    2018 Prime, large
    Fox 36 RC2 160mm
    Fox X2
    Guide RSC
    GX
    OneUp 170 dropper
    Braaaaaaap


    Braaaap indeed. Lovely bike build there, and I trust you're loving the X2 and 160mm fork set up?

    Keen to hear a more detailed report when you've finally settled it down.

  167. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    Nice build.
    What chain guide/bash guard are you running. I really need a bash guard.
    Thanks!

    MRP Amg - everything I need, nothing I don't. Been running this for 3 years. Highly recommended

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  168. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    24,080
    So, curious to hear your thoughts comparing 650B to 29", I'm expecting that unless you're a big jumper, you'll like a 29er better Nice bike, but for me, not a fan of the whole stealth/blacked out thing, the rest of life is generally so boring, why have a "boring/quiet" coloured bike
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  169. #169
    FM
    FM is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    9,464
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Only 1 lap at my local trail so far but lots more to come. I'll post a review after some more saddle time, just stoked to share a shot of Black Betty....
    Spectacular build Lithfield, nice work!

  170. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    26
    Here's mine. I've had it a season now but it got an update this year to try and drop some weight. I went sixc bars and cranks, 11x xx1, carbon bits where i could and carbon bash guard. 175mm lev CI with the spyder saddle (which has not broken yet, and i really like). Inline coil and Ti bolts (every damn one). Total weight w/ everything is 30.9lbs. Very happy with it. 2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_0042.jpg

  171. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    115
    Brilliant bike!

  172. #172
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Thanks!

    MRP Amg - everything I need, nothing I don't. Been running this for 3 years. Highly recommended

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Awesome, glad to see you got your prime built and rolling!

  173. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Deleted post - moved question to another thread.
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 05-18-2018 at 07:35 PM.

  174. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    A quick update on my Banshee Prime MY17. After owning it for about 6 weeks now and I've played about with the suspension and a host of settings.

    The quick answer is this is such a great bike.
    The X2 shock is every single bit as good as I'd hoped it would be. Dialling in the settings has taken time but now it's so supportive, I'm getting no pedal bob, it's active over small features as well as not bottoming out. It's just perfect.

    I found the bike rode a little "tippy toed", if that highly scientific term makes sense. Once I'd put the rear drop-outs in the low setting it just handled so much better. It also made the chainstays a little longer which I actually like.

    Having tried the 140mm forks the thought of dropping the forks from 160mm down to 150mm crossed my mind but I like it just as it is. Frankly, I don't see 10mm / 0.5 degrees making that much of a difference really although I could be wrong.

    It pedals so very well, is great everywhere and I've yet to find an element about riding the frame / bike I don't like. The few creaks I had have been chased away and it's pretty much silent on the trails too.

    As stated in my earlier post, my only element to resolve is the wheels and I'm taking my time to decide on which ones to select. Hopefully I can pick something up in the coming weeks.

    My poor Remedy is feeling decidedly unloved at the moment so I'd better get that out and run it for a while.

    Thanks Banshee, what a wicked bike!

  175. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    The X2 shock is every single bit as good as I'd hoped it would be. Dialling in the settings has taken time but now it's so supportive, I'm getting no pedal bob, it's active over small features as well as not bottoming out. It's just perfect.
    Do you mind sharing your settings? I am having a bit of a time dialing mine in.

  176. #176
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Sure!
    I weigh in at 95kgs out of the shower and riding at about 102kgs.
    Air: 195psi puts it at just about 30% sag.
    LSC: 6 clicks from full open.
    HSC: 6 clicks from full open.
    LSR: 2 clicks from full slow.
    HSR: 14 clicks from full slow.

    What worked for me was setting sag, leaving both compression circuits fully open and then working on rebound. After that the compression levels.

    Hope that helps. Let us know how you go.

  177. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post

    My poor Remedy is feeling decidedly unloved at the moment so I'd better get that out and run it for a while.
    Thanks for your post! I'm about to pull the trigger on an 17' Prime. I plan on putting a Topaz on it. My current ride is Remedy 29 which I really like. Were you on a 27.5 or 29 Remedy? Wondering what you like better on the Prime.

  178. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    I think you'll love the Prime. I've got the 9.8 2017 Remedy in 27.5" flavour. It's an excellent bike, super stiff, handles well and the suspension is active yet controlled. It's made me handle descents really well and it's a great bike to jump too. I can definitely feel the extra 15mm in the rear on the Remedy.

    She pedals well enough but the Prime has that beaten, the Lyrik fork is superb and it's just so roomy and well mannered on the trails. Despite very little difference in some of the geometry it actually fits better and the STA is noticably steeper.
    I think the X2 shock improves the bike markedly and so I'm feeling very fortunate to have them both.

    The Prime for more all day riding, the Remedy for a mad blast but to be open with you they both would be awesome as my only bike if I had to make a choice.

    Just about to get the rear suspension serviced on the Remedy then I can really check back to back which pedals best.

    How're you going to set your Prime up to make sure it doesn't overlap with the Remedy?
    Both are 29" and ~140mm.

    Adding the DVO Topaz should make a great positive impact.
    Last edited by JonJones; 05-20-2018 at 12:24 PM.

  179. #179
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Great feedback. Yeah, the Remedy is a very underrated bike in both wheel sizes. I keep defaulting back to it after the honeymoon is over with other 29ers I've tried. What drew me to the Prime are the geo numbers. I also had a Phantom for a while and loved it. I just wanted a little more cush.

    Going to run the Prime as a standard 29er and just re-use the same parts from my Remedy. I would love to try an X2 shock but the Topaz is something I already have. Can't wait! I will post some images up as soon as it's built.

  180. #180
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Sure!
    I weigh in at 95kgs out of the shower and riding at about 102kgs.
    Air: 195psi puts it at just about 30% sag.
    LSC: 6 clicks from full open.
    HSC: 6 clicks from full open.
    LSR: 2 clicks from full slow.
    HSR: 14 clicks from full slow.

    What worked for me was setting sag, leaving both compression circuits fully open and then working on rebound. After that the compression levels.

    Hope that helps. Let us know how you go.
    Ok thanks. I was shockingly close to that, like 1 click off on HSR. MEssed around on trail this week - need to do another tuning ride. Rear is feeling better now but fork needs some serious fiddling...I'll post up full settings when I settle on something.

    Fork is super harsh.
    Rear is going through travel quickly.

  181. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation: coot271's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    352
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    A quick update on my Banshee Prime MY17. After owning it for about 6 weeks now and I've played about with the suspension and a host of settings.

    The quick answer is this is such a great bike.
    The X2 shock is every single bit as good as I'd hoped it would be. Dialling in the settings has taken time but now it's so supportive, I'm getting no pedal bob, it's active over small features as well as not bottoming out. It's just perfect.

    I found the bike rode a little "tippy toed", if that highly scientific term makes sense. Once I'd put the rear drop-outs in the low setting it just handled so much better. It also made the chainstays a little longer which I actually like.

    Having tried the 140mm forks the thought of dropping the forks from 160mm down to 150mm crossed my mind but I like it just as it is. Frankly, I don't see 10mm / 0.5 degrees making that much of a difference really although I could be wrong.

    It pedals so very well, is great everywhere and I've yet to find an element about riding the frame / bike I don't like. The few creaks I had have been chased away and it's pretty much silent on the trails too.

    As stated in my earlier post, my only element to resolve is the wheels and I'm taking my time to decide on which ones to select. Hopefully I can pick something up in the coming weeks.

    My poor Remedy is feeling decidedly unloved at the moment so I'd better get that out and run it for a while.

    Thanks Banshee, what a wicked bike!
    Been looking at the Prime for sale on JENSONUSA website.....GX Prime in red or black chrome for $2999 seems like a killer deal. But, I was wondering...the available colors are not standard for the bikes on Banshee's website..what gives? They appear to be the latest version as they only have the neutral/low position chips in the dropouts and have boost spacing....also, there are no general sizing charts. I'm just shy of 5'11" and currently riding a 27.5 dually with a 425-430mm reach (roughly) and 60mm stem. The ability to run 29/27.5+ is also a...PLUS (no pun intended). What size Prime do you have and what is your height? Thanks for the info.
    “NICE ASS!”

    -Sheriff Buford T. Justice

  182. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Hey coot271, you'll be stoked with the bike. I believe that Jenson have some unique colours which are not available elsewhere.

    I'm 1.93m and running an XL frame with 35mm stem. It fits beautifully in reach, stack and seat tube.

    Hope this helps. And I believe they have a sizing chart at the foot of the Prime page.. take a look. :^)

  183. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    I'm also just shy of 5'11" and my large Prime is great. Just went from 35mm stem to 50mm stem and so far liking the change!

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  184. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    50
    I am 6’3” with a 40mm stem on my XL (current model) prime and it fits me really well!

  185. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    I finally got my Prime built up and it rips! The geometry on this bike fits like a glove for me (6' 0"). I come from Trek Remedy 29 but also had a Phantom and a Following for a short time. I was worried the Prime rear end would not be active enough but WOW was I wrong! The suspension gobbles up everything yet still allows me to pump and launch of stuff. This is a fun bike! Pedals much better than my Remedy to boot.

    Not sure how long the inline will last but it's surprisingly good on this bike. I have DB CS and a DVO Topaz I can try out but I don't feel the need to swap it out just yet. Mind the 10+ year old WTB seat. 2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_0991.jpg2017 Banshee Build Thread-img_0994.jpg

  186. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bullit43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    281
    You should make a upgrade for the Inline IL, much better.

  187. #187
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    Looking nice Dirtdiggler! They're such a good bike and loads of fun to ride. And yes I'll agree they do pedal better than Remedys. Have fun and post up your report once you've got it dialled..

  188. #188
    Here, diagonally!
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    2,098
    Nice bike - that orange is sick! Good luck trying to sneak around. Based on my experience, the CC Inlines and DBs go about a year before starting with the squishy noises, and damping starts to fall off. Although surprisingly the Prime doesn't seem to mind too much, until you get to higher speeds.

    Glad you are enjoying the KS link. Not the most active I've ridden climbing chunk, but on the plus side the back end doesn't sink down in that situation, and it pedals very efficiently in general. I'll take that all day long.

    Have fun!

  189. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    You should make a upgrade for the Inline IL, much better.
    The frame is actually used and came with the 1st gen Inline. I was skeptical about whether it was blown or not but it turns out it still works. I have a new CC DB CS and a Topaz sitting in my garage left over from previous bikes that will fit. After having 3 different blown Inlines I would never buy one again. But when it works it works great!
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 06-28-2018 at 06:51 AM.

  190. #190
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Looking nice Dirtdiggler! They're such a good bike and loads of fun to ride. And yes I'll agree they do pedal better than Remedys. Have fun and post up your report once you've got it dialled..
    Thanks JJ! Feels great so far.

  191. #191
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Nice bike - that orange is sick! Good luck trying to sneak around. Based on my experience, the CC Inlines and DBs go about a year before starting with the squishy noises, and damping starts to fall off. Although surprisingly the Prime doesn't seem to mind too much, until you get to higher speeds.

    Yup! That's my experience as well. I will give this shock 4-5 more trips before it starts making the classic 'squishy noise'. It's not a matter of 'if' it's a matter of 'when'.

    Glad you are enjoying the KS link. Not the most active I've ridden climbing chunk, but on the plus side the back end doesn't sink down in that situation, and it pedals very efficiently in general. I'll take that all day long.

    Have fun!
    Thanks for your feedback. So far I'm loving how plush and active the rear is on climbs. It doesn't pogo bad when peddling out of saddle either. In comparison, my old Phantom felt like a hardtail on climbs but would get hung up a lot on bigger stuff and beat my back side up a bit. That's not a dig on the Phantom - it's a super fast fun bike. But if I'm being honest I was actually a little worried the Prime would ride like a Phantom with more travel. Now that I've ridden both bikes I can say the Prime's suspension feels totally different. It's so much smoother and active and for what I ride it works much better.

  192. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    381
    A quick update on my Prime. The only area mine has been found wanting is on the wheels. This is my fault and no failing on the bike / frame. I was running very narrow Internal width carbon wheels. ~21mm. I needed to run higher pressures than I'd like in order to get the support from the tyres.

    I was looking at some wider and aluminium wheels to make the required improvement and was a little wary of weight but decided carbon wasn't what I wanted for this wheelset.

    After looking at almost every option I decided on a set and went with the Nukeproof Horizon in black.
    29mm internal width, straight pull spokes,
    84 POE freehub, brass nipples and a competitive weight.

    Pairing them with Continental Trail King 2.4 and OMG they're huge. Easily 2.5" width. I have a mate running the same width wheels and Maxxis 2.6 tyres said they're as wide as his.

    First run on them this morning and damn...
    I thought the Banshee was a superb bike before but with this wheel and tyre combo it's next level business.

    Of course, I can feel the weight difference compared to the LB carbon wheels I was running but these are so much better in every other way. Excellent comfort and grip and they're super solid when riding and hitting the trails.

    On the trails this morning I was hollering like a kid riding and just astounded by how good it is.

    I'm going to need to force myself to ride the Remedy 9.8. in my mind it's sold already.

    Never thought that I'd choose to ride the aluminium bike with aluminium wheels that weighs approximately 14kgs over the carbon one weighing almost 2kgs less, but that's how it is..

    It could be the X2 or the KS link or something else but it's just superb. If you're on the fence about this bike and think the weight is an issue, it isn't. It climbs ridiculously well and is just amazing to ride.
    Last edited by JonJones; 07-01-2018 at 12:17 AM.

  193. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    It could be the X2 or the KS link or something else but it's just superb. If you're on the fence about this bike and think the weight is an issue, it isn't. It climbs ridiculously well and is just amazing to ride.
    Can second this. On a ride yesterday with some buddies, even after a 40+ mile CX ride Saturday, I was waiting at the top of the climb. Heaviest bike of the day by at least 2lbs. Only alloy bike in the mix. Thing just motors.

    Truth be told, it's almost making me enjoy the climbs a bit. Tapping into that mental zone of just hammer hammer hammer.

  194. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    669
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJones View Post
    Pairing them with Continental Trail King 2.4 and OMG they're huge. Easily 2.5" width. I have a mate running the same width wheels and Maxxis 2.6 tyres said they're as wide as his.

    First run on them this morning and damn...
    I thought the Banshee was a superb bike before but with this wheel and tyre combo it's next level business.
    I agree - I have new MK II's 2.4's on my Prime with new Ibis 938 AL wheels. The rims have a 34mm ID. So far I'm absolutely loving the wider rims with the Conti's 2.4's on the Prime. With the wider rims they feel more like a 2.5 Minions without the weight or drag.

Similar Threads

  1. Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread
    By AdrianoMTB in forum Banshee Bikes
    Replies: 3293
    Last Post: 03-05-2020, 08:04 AM
  2. 2017 Banshee bikes: News, rumours, speculation etc
    By Smashquatch in forum Banshee Bikes
    Replies: 638
    Last Post: 10-27-2017, 07:14 AM
  3. Replies: 39
    Last Post: 05-05-2017, 09:28 PM
  4. Replies: 14
    Last Post: 03-02-2017, 07:58 PM
  5. Replies: 15
    Last Post: 12-23-2016, 08:43 PM

Members who have read this thread: 10

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.