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  1. #1
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    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?

    I currently have my wheels set up ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape and a tubeless presta valve stem. I remeber reading awhile back in one of the tubeless threads about a threaded schrader valve stem that someone used. It turns out its a lot harder to find one of these, Ive tried discount tire and several motorsports stores, ride now and moto city on the west side and still no luck. so anyone know where to find these, Im just looking for an easier way of putting in stans and schrader removable cores are perfect. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olie12
    I currently have my wheels set up ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape and a tubeless presta valve stem. I remeber reading awhile back in one of the tubeless threads about a threaded schrader valve stem that someone used. It turns out its a lot harder to find one of these, Ive tried discount tire and several motorsports stores, ride now and moto city on the west side and still no luck. so anyone know where to find these, Im just looking for an easier way of putting in stans and schrader removable cores are perfect. Thanks
    Not sure what you mean. Every Schrader valve I've ever seen in my entire life can have the valve core removed with a valve core removal tool.





    https://www.notubes.com/product_info...roducts_id/327

  3. #3
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    Every Schrader valve I've ever seen in my entire life can have the valve core removed with a valve core removal tool.
    I think OP means he would like to thread the schrader valve into the rim like a car rim,...I could be wrong.

  4. #4
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    cru - pretty sure he means fully threaded on the OD so it can be locked down with a nut like a presta valve.

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    Just squeeze the tire to hold the valve in place.

  6. #6
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    I think, if I understand you correctly, there is another option.

    Instead of using the gorilla tape, get a 20" BMX tube with a shraeder valve, and cut it longitudinally to make a sealing strip with a built in shraeder valve. Seat the tire on the tube/strip and then cut off the excess tube rubber extending out from the bead. That way, you don't need threaded to hold the valve onto the rim.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve
    I think, if I understand you correctly, there is another option.

    Instead of using the gorilla tape, get a 20" BMX tube with a shraeder valve, and cut it longitudinally to make a sealing strip with a built in shraeder valve. Seat the tire on the tube/strip and then cut off the excess tube rubber extending out from the bead. That way, you don't need threaded to hold the valve onto the rim.
    I've never gone ghetto, but I've also see video of going the gorilla tape route and just cutting the shraeder valve from a tube.
    Nobody gives a s#$t you singlespeed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    I think OP means he would like to thread the schrader valve into the rim like a car rim,...I could be wrong.
    I thought about that too...but since he said he wanted to be able to remove the valve cores and not the valve stem itself, I just assumed he need a valve core removal tool.

  9. #9
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    Sorry for not being more specific eatdrinkride and 'size are correct. Im looking for a schrader valve that is threaded all the way down. Just like the ones pictured but with a little rubber gasket on the bottom end just like a presta.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve
    I think, if I understand you correctly, there is another option.

    Instead of using the gorilla tape, get a 20" BMX tube with a shraeder valve, and cut it longitudinally to make a sealing strip with a built in shraeder valve. Seat the tire on the tube/strip and then cut off the excess tube rubber extending out from the bead. That way, you don't need threaded to hold the valve onto the rim.
    +1

    I've sucessfully done this on both a Vuelta and WTB rim. MANY others have done it on various other rims as well.

    But you don't HAVE to have removeable cores to put in sealant. It does make it easier and less potential for mess to do it after the beads are seated, but it's not mandatory. Just takes a little more paying attention to what you are doing to keep it from spilling out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Olie12
    Sorry for not being more specific eatdrinkride and 'size are correct. Im looking for a schrader valve that is threaded all the way down. Just like the ones pictured but with a little rubber gasket on the bottom end just like a presta.
    But, as mentioned, you don't need one to do what you want to do...

  12. #12
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    Why do you want the schrader as opposed to the Presta you're already using? Just for the bigger diameter making it easier to pour sealant in?

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    Thanks guys I know I can accomplish what I want with a bmx tube I just remember seeing one of the threaded schrader valves and thought it would be cool. Yea its all about cool factor for me not just function. My current setup has worked perfect over the last year without a problem. 'size where did you get those pictures

  14. #14
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    I've had good success in going to the various moto shops which are NOT BMW, Harley Davidson, or Ducati. Peer inside the workshop and if you see lots of dirtbikes and wheels and tires, then you have just increased your odds in getting the goods. Ghetto setup means spending as least as possible. Free valve stems are best. Go to the service desk at the end of the work day. You may want to bring along a 6-pac of something not too expensive for the guys there, since they are helping you out. Place the bag on the counter, slide it across while asking if you could get at least 2 old used moto tubes. Maybe ask for 4 if you think things are going well. If you really wanted to be true ghetto, just find the dumpster in back with old tubes in mass. Then if you score big, you could sell them here on this forum.
    Or if you want to spend money, go to Napa auto parts and they have threaded valve stems.
    There is a big difference between ripping and skidding.

  15. #15
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    Here's where I ordered mine. The Cycle Gear by my house had the same valves but they were $8 each (!). I had to trim the gasket and only use one side but they work quite well.

    http://automotive-hardware.com/1-pie...lve-p-110.html
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  16. #16
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    Chalk, your the man. Too freakin funny.

    Schrader is stronger and much more functional. For those that are not running with pipe tape or gorilla tape, you are missing out. Much easier set up, hassle free. Forget split tube.

    Option #1 is a moto valve for $7.
    Option #2 is a MTB Continental tube cut out.

    valves" width="549">

    Both of these have been working great.

    Good luck. Schrader all the way.
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  17. #17
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    Zul those would be exactly what I'm looking for. Any clue on where to get that moto valve. Ive called several places and no luck. I agree ultimately I'm looking for ease of use and for me the gorilla tape method has worked awesome and now I just want the security of a threaded valve just schrader

  18. #18
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    I have been using these:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=46838

    I have to order them from CRC, but they are exactly what I needed for my tubeless setups.

    gerG
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by zul
    Chalk, your the man. Too freakin funny.

    Schrader is stronger and much more functional. For those that are not running with pipe tape or gorilla tape, you are missing out. Much easier set up, hassle free. Forget split tube.

    Option #1 is a moto valve for $7.
    Option #2 is a MTB Continental tube cut out.

    valves" width="549">

    Both of these have been working great.

    Good luck. Schrader all the way.
    I think the split tube method is under rated, I never understood why some consider it a hassle. It only took me about 2 hours to do both wheels and most of that time was getting stuff out and putting it back.

    I used 20" presta tubes with removable cores, easy to set the bead and its been bulletproof. My front tire holds air better than a tube, my rear tire only requires air about once a month, if that.

    Oh and any motorcycle shop that changes tires should have those Schrader valves, they are standard on tubes for motocross bikes, you could probably get them for free from their throw away tubes.
    "What kind of bike? I don't know, I'm not a bike scientist."

  20. #20
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    Check these?

    https://https://www.ezaccessory.com/TR501_Truck_Valve_Stem_Length_p/v1561.htm?1=1&CartID=0[/URL]

    https://www.ezaccessory.com/v/vspfil...os/V1561-2.jpg

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    Sorry to ask, I've read a few threads on setting up tubeless, and I have a question that I couldn't find the answer to. I've had 5 flats in the last 2 months, so I'm getting a bit tired of buying tubes.... and want to give tubeless a chance!

    Reference: rotorburn site, tubeless for 30$ thread.

    - Presta valves: many mention to buy/get for free a 20" BMX tube to put over the rim strip to keep air in, and have a built-in valve. Great. My 26" AlexRims are built for Schraeder which are a lot skinnier. They mention it is important to drill on the inside rim part to get the valve to fit. What about the outer rim? Will pushing hard on the Presta through a hole made for a Schraeder work??? What about if I just hate it, and want to run tubes again? Am I screwed because I just drilled my wheelset?

    Is there a major cleanup required eventually? I mean, after 2-3 years of adding latex regularly, I'm sure it will build up and make the tire very heavy!!

    Thanks!

    EDIT: OK, just found out there are 20" BMX tubes with Schraeder valves out there. Still need to drill? Any YouTube videos or good websites to explain the procedure? thanks.
    Last edited by UnderWurlde; 11-29-2010 at 08:41 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWurlde
    Sorry to ask, I've read a few threads on setting up tubeless, and I have a question that I couldn't find the answer to. I've had 5 flats in the last 2 months, so I'm getting a bit tired of buying tubes.... and want to give tubeless a chance!

    Reference: rotorburn site, tubeless for 30$ thread.

    - Presta valves: many mention to buy/get for free a 20" BMX tube to put over the rim strip to keep air in, and have a built-in valve. Great. My 26" AlexRims are built for Schraeder which are a lot skinnier. They mention it is important to drill on the inside rim part to get the valve to fit. What about the outer rim? Will pushing hard on the Presta through a hole made for a Schraeder work??? What about if I just hate it, and want to run tubes again? Am I screwed because I just drilled my wheelset?

    Is there a major cleanup required eventually? I mean, after 2-3 years of adding latex regularly, I'm sure it will build up and make the tire very heavy!!

    Thanks!

    EDIT: OK, just found out there are 20" BMX tubes with Schraeder valves out there. Still need to drill? Any YouTube videos or good websites to explain the procedure? thanks.
    You may have that backwards. Presta is skinny. Schraeder is bigger than Presta. If you have Presta and want Schrader and your Presta rims really are Presta sized and not simply reduced with a redcuer, yes, careful drilling will make the hole bigger. You can run either tube whenever you wish. Again, the reducer is required for the Presta in a Schrader sized hole, but why not then just run Schrader and be done with it I suppose. I prefer Presta, but my last bike had one of each so I guess I don't really care.

    20" tubes can be had with Schrader or Presta valves. I bought my Presta stemmed 20" tubes locally.

    Reducers are readily available to put a Presta valve stem into a Schrader valve-sized hole -- no worries there. If you have rims drilled for Schrader valves you can use either type so long as you have the reducer.

    Using the 20" precludes the Stan's or sealant of choice from getting onto the rim, pretty much. Maybe not so much using the Gorilla tape approach. Either way, the stuff will clean up so this should not be considered a concern.

    Finally, no need for a removable core to add sealant. A simple syringe works great. I use a syringe intended for mixing 2-stroke oil with fuel. The first time I did it I just dumped the stuff in using the cap. After seating the bead, break the bead opposite the valve stem just enough to either insert the syringe or enough opening to pour the stuff using the cap. Hit it with the air compressor and it'll seal right up again. No more than 40 psi please. So far zero failures even with rims and tires that supposedly aren't supposed to work.
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  23. #23
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    Prestas are smaller than schrader. I think you have your names confused.
    Your tire tread will give out long before 2or3 years worth of riding, so the latex shouldn't build up. As far as going back to tubes if you drill out your tires, just buy tubes with schrader valves ( I think) instead.
    Go to you tube and search "gorilla tubeless" there is a great 2part video to watch.
    Also check out the wheels and tires forum, tons of threads to help you out.
    Good luck

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertCrawler
    You may have that backwards.
    Uhhh... Yes I did.

    Quote Originally Posted by DesertCrawler
    Hit it with the air compressor and it'll seal right up again. No more than 40 psi please.
    So bike pump is out of the question? Too much fiddling around or because you just need a quick surge of air? What about when you need to "top off" every month?

  25. #25
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    Oh yeah, one more thing: if you use the 20" tube method, and have to install a tube out on the trail due to popped bead/torn side wall etc you will have to totally disassemble your setup or cut out your stem. If you use gorilla tape or rimstrips, just unscrew the stem, and you're good to go.

  26. #26
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    Bike pump is a maybe with most tubeless setups (including UST rims). I've gotten it to work fine with certain tire/rim combos and others have required lots of compressor time and persuasion. I just picked up a small compressor at Home Depot and saved myself the late night trip to the gas station
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajmelin
    Go to you tube and search "gorilla tubeless" there is a great 2part video to watch.
    Good luck
    Checked out that YouTube video (2 part), and he uses premixed latex, and UST tires. Will try with my present tires (folding Panaracer Fire XC Pro) and art supply latex.

    Thanks!

  28. #28
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    Ghetto

    I had good luck with the gorilla tape, and home brew method on non ust tires, although I have to say the ust tires have a stronger sidewall and feel more stable. The non ust felt like they were going to roll off the rim if I ran the pressure to low. But it was better then tubes, because no flats. They did burp every once and while and I would just pump them up on the trail. Never tried the split tube method although some guys swear by it and say they don't burp. Good luck.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWurlde
    Uhhh... Yes I did.



    So bike pump is out of the question? Too much fiddling around or because you just need a quick surge of air? What about when you need to "top off" every month?
    You need a high volume of air to make the bead want to seat. A compressor makes short work of this. However, it can be done with a hand pump but you need a good pump, and ideally, someone else pumping while someone coerces the tire to seat against the rim. It is or can be a tricky PITA. On the trail, forget about it. Pack a spare tube and be done with it.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajmelin
    Oh yeah, one more thing: if you use the 20" tube method, and have to install a tube out on the trail due to popped bead/torn side wall etc you will have to totally disassemble your setup or cut out your stem. If you use gorilla tape or rimstrips, just unscrew the stem, and you're good to go.
    That's a great point. I was concerned about my non-UST Kevlar WTB MotoRaptors not seating so well against the non-UST rim so I chose the BMX tube approach. I have Gorilla tape in the correct width ready to try another rim so maybe that is the approach to go with next time. The worst is I waste a little time, some sealant, and have to revert to a 20" tube which I also already have.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWurlde

    So bike pump is out of the question? Too much fiddling around or because you just need a quick surge of air? What about when you need to "top off" every month?
    Initial setup = Compressor. Bike pump is 'possible' but increased chance to fail.

    Top off with air = Floor pump, hand pump or compressor. Simple.
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  32. #32
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    Yeah, dirt bike tube cannibalism

    That's a killer idea, I just been running the split tube method, but it looks so ghetto..

    I dig the idea of running the old schrader valve off a motorcycle tube with Gorilla tape..do the beads seal willingly? or do they take bulk Stans to get there..I figured having the rubber tube between the tire and rim help form a seal...I guess it would vary tire to tire?

    I just happen to have a pile of dirt-bike tubes to cannibalize...

    Wish I could find a way to ghetto tubeless the dirtbike as well...I'm always getting pinch flats, or ripping the stems off the rear tube because the bead-locks can't keep the tire from slipping on the rim under hard acceleration/braking, high traction conditions...faulty rim-locks I think, never happened in 35yrs riding dirtbikes (although I also never had a bike with as much brute force power as the one I have now either).
    Check my pulse...

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5bravobravo
    I dig the idea of running the old schrader valve off a motorcycle tube with Gorilla tape..do the beads seal willingly? or do they take bulk Stans to get there..I figured having the rubber tube between the tire and rim help form a seal...I guess it would vary tire to tire?
    The tires you use are what is important in my experience. My WTB's were very loose and sloppy. they were old, and a first time experiment. I had to use a ratchet tiedown around the tires to get them to seat with ALOT of extra sealant (I used homemade) around the bead. My Specialized Captians mounted no sweat.
    The Gorilla tape only goes into the channel where the spoke holes are, the tube doesn't contact it at all.

  34. #34
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    $4.25 ea, shipped
    confirmed 8g w/alu cap
    large rubber washer
    schrader dominance



    These are gorilla tape's best friend. I had to cut several mm off of the retaining nut, but otherwise a perfect setup for those of us who hate presta valves.

  35. #35
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    ooo...good find!

    The Joe's no-flat stems appear to have disappeared, and I needed another option.

    and btw, I really hate presta valves!

    gerG
    ...uphill uphill uphill DOWNHILL! uphill uphill uphill uphill DOWNHILL! uphill ...

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern
    $4.25 ea, shipped
    confirmed 8g w/alu cap
    large rubber washer
    schrader dominance



    These are gorilla tape's best friend. I had to cut several mm off of the retaining nut, but otherwise a perfect setup for those of us who hate presta valves.
    Was the retaining nut too tall to allow the cap to snug down?
    Its hard to tell what the nut looks like - here or on the website; is the nut tall in design?
    Or is the threaded valve just on the short side when installed thru the rim?

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyBones
    Was the retaining nut too tall to allow the cap to snug down?
    Its hard to tell what the nut looks like - here or on the website; is the nut tall in design?
    Or is the threaded valve just on the short side when installed thru the rim?
    Correct, the retaining nut was too long and interfered with the cap. I think the retaining nut is extra long to protect the threaded body of the valve since it's original design intent is for car racing. The valve is not "short", rather it's designed for automotive applications, not double wall mtb wheels. Hacksaw off like 6mm and file smooth. Takes one minute. Another advantage of these valves is the rubber washer is thick and conical so it can accommodate a non-flat interface in the drop center portion of the rim.

    Last edited by Moe's Tavern; 05-19-2011 at 08:08 AM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern
    Correct, the retaining nut was too long and interfered with the cap. I think the retaining nut is extra long to protect the threaded body of the valve since it's original design intent is for car racing. The valve is not "short", rather it's designed for automotive applications, not double wall mtb wheels. Hacksaw off like 6mm and file smooth. Takes one minute. Another advantage of these valves is the rubber washer is thick and conical so it can accommodate a non-flat interface in the drop center portion of the rim.


    Thanks for the tip. Just ordered some. Much better than slipping brown paper packages over the counter!
    My brain went from "you probably shouldn't say that" to WTF!

  39. #39
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    Thanks much for the info & especially the photos of the components; just as I had assumed, the double-wall rim thickness affected the fit of the nut.
    The mfgr. should put images & measurements on their website for that item!
    The product looks nice; I'm going to order some for my rims.

    BTW
    Anyone ordering these, if you have a Dremel tool, you can use a disc cutter to more easily cut/shorten the nut (& make a nicer cut than a hacksaw), and it might not even require filing afterward. Available where Dremel tools are sold.

  40. #40
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    I have been using the pipe tape system with Schraeder valves for a couple of years with great success. Continental or Schwalbe bike tubes have fully threaded valves but the lock nuts are not ideal.

    However, finding that motor bike tubes have fully threaded valves with proper nuts has solved that problem most satisfactorily - that gives you the cheapest solution and Chalkpaw's advice is spot on!
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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern View Post
    $4.25 ea, shipped
    confirmed 8g w/alu cap
    large rubber washer
    schrader dominance



    These are gorilla tape's best friend. I had to cut several mm off of the retaining nut, but otherwise a perfect setup for those of us who hate presta valves.
    Awesome... thanks. They are only 5 miles from my house.

  42. #42
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    Presta sucks

    I have 5 bikes. My goal is to convert them all to Shrader. I believe presta should be banned from real Mountain bikes. All presta does for me is dig into my wallet for more CASH.

    So thanks for all the info on how to wing myself from presta garbage.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 22GILBERT22 View Post
    I have 5 bikes. My goal is to convert them all to Shrader. I believe presta should be banned from real Mountain bikes. All presta does for me is dig into my wallet for more CASH.

    So thanks for all the info on how to wing myself from presta garbage.
    Black anodized. Laser etched 949 logo reputed to be worth 3hp!
    949 Racing threaded schreader valve is the shiznay!
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tor-y-Foel View Post
    I have been using the pipe tape system with Schraeder valves for a couple of years with great success. Continental or Schwalbe bike tubes have fully threaded valves but the lock nuts are not ideal.
    :
    I just re-did my gt setup with Continental tubes. The nuts don't really seem to do much once the bead is set. I went to the local hardware store with the nut, found aluminum hex-nut that would fit but decided on a little loctite instead.

    All in all, I spent $20 on stuff I didn't already have, and will still never replace a pinch-flat of my own on the trails...

  45. #45
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    thought I would bring this back from the dead and ask a couple questions about the valves mo brought to our attention...When showing the entire purchase I am wondering if all parts were used? I is the conical piece that looks like a funnel used anywhere? Anyone else using these?

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    that makes sense...didnt know it was rubber.

    Thanks

    Ahhh...the reading of minds before posts are sent is back..

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96p993 View Post
    thought I would bring this back from the dead and ask a couple questions about the valves mo brought to our attention...When showing the entire purchase I am wondering if all parts were used? I is the conical piece that looks like a funnel used anywhere? Anyone else using these?
    Yes all parts are used. The rubber cone is the seal.

  48. #48
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    ^
    ^
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    Buy them!
    You will be happy!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by 22GILBERT22 View Post
    I have 5 bikes. My goal is to convert them all to Shrader. I believe presta should be banned from real Mountain bikes. All presta does for me is dig into my wallet for more CASH.

    So thanks for all the info on how to wing myself from presta garbage.
    How do presta valves dig into your wallet?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern View Post
    $4.25 ea, shipped
    confirmed 8g w/alu cap
    large rubber washer
    schrader dominance



    These are gorilla tape's best friend. I had to cut several mm off of the retaining nut, but otherwise a perfect setup for those of us who hate presta valves.
    For Those in AUS, i just bought a set from this mob

    https://www.mx5centre.com.au/index.p...roducts_id=244

    Yes, they are almost double the US price, but the FEDEX post cost would be a killer.

    Looking forward to my tubeless conversion now

  51. #51
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    Just order 2 from heel toe auto. Total came to $8.70 with coupon rsxrocks and shipping. Not to shabby

    The 949 website says minimum of 4 so i looked for a different retailer.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern View Post
    Yes all parts are used. The rubber cone is the seal.
    Done and done...Great mod to wheels and a great peace of mind!
    Last edited by 96p993; 07-30-2011 at 02:27 PM.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moe's Tavern View Post
    $4.25 ea, shipped
    confirmed 8g w/alu cap
    large rubber washer
    schrader dominance



    These are gorilla tape's best friend. I had to cut several mm off of the retaining nut, but otherwise a perfect setup for those of us who hate presta valves.
    I know this is an old thread but....
    holy crap.. that's cheaper than the Presta valves for tubeless... and I think they are lighter even...? and i kinda like the look better, might convert my Presta's over...

    got a friend doing tubeless with an older Schrader set up wheels and was linked back to this thread!! nice find!!!
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  54. #54
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    I bought these 949 valves and installed them today on my laserdiscs. For whatever reason, it is still leaking at the valve no matter how much I snug it down. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I initially tried presta valves and gorilla tape but the valve was leaking, so I found this post and bought these valves. They fit perfectly, so I had high hopes... but no luck. Any ideas?

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrss13 View Post
    I bought these 949 valves and installed them today on my laserdiscs. For whatever reason, it is still leaking at the valve no matter how much I snug it down. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I initially tried presta valves and gorilla tape but the valve was leaking, so I found this post and bought these valves. They fit perfectly, so I had high hopes... but no luck. Any ideas?
    yup.. had it happen on lots of rims, presta or not with a variety of stem..

    the fix, a dab of Polyurethane caulk


    I use the caulk cause I have it around being in construction, heard of people using mold builder from the art stores but I think the caulk is cheaper and easier to get a hold of...? depends on what you have around for stores.

    DON'T use latex caulk, it's not structural strong enough nor does it have enough adhesive properties to hold under pressure, it might work for a short time but you will eventually see the sealant leaking out the stem again,...


    only need a little dab what ever you use and spin the stem a few times to get an even distribution before tightening down the tension bolt to the rim... let sit over night to dry is also best.. do all that and the leaks will be gone
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  56. #56
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    Thanks, I'll give that a shot, I have some laying around. I figured the 949 stems would solve my problem, but I guess not.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrss13 View Post
    Thanks, I'll give that a shot, I have some laying around. I figured the 949 stems would solve my problem, but I guess not.
    ya.. sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.. but those stems are better than using presta with adaptors anyway...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrss13 View Post
    I bought these 949 valves and installed them today on my laserdiscs. For whatever reason, it is still leaking at the valve no matter how much I snug it down. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I initially tried presta valves and gorilla tape but the valve was leaking, so I found this post and bought these valves. They fit perfectly, so I had high hopes... but no luck. Any ideas?
    I have some rims that refuse to seal at the valve. On those I install the 949 valve before taping. Then I run the tape over the valve (2 layers at the valve) then use an xacto to cut a hole the size of the center bore of the valve. Easy, and no extra goop to give out on me.

    gerG
    ...uphill uphill uphill DOWNHILL! uphill uphill uphill uphill DOWNHILL! uphill ...

  59. #59
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    hey, anyone using the 949's notice the seat sticks up above the rim bead? kinda don't like that... Just did them on a friend bike last night and they work well, but thinking I might pull them and replace the seat/seal with an O-ring to lower them below the bead lip. ? there is a lip in the Alum body so it I get the right size and thickness I think it'll work...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  60. #60
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    Tubeless with 949 schrader valves

    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    hey, anyone using the 949's notice the seat sticks up above the rim bead?
    ...thinking I might pull them and replace the seat/seal with an O-ring to lower them below the bead lip...
    I just did the 949's on a SUNRingle Charger wheelset.

    Charger Pro | SUNRinglé

    These rims have a pretty deep section between the inner & outer walls, so in order to have a workable valve-stem length I had to cut the shoulder off the lock-down nut and trim the conical rubber seal.

    The seal is surprisingly soft and easy to cut with a small pair of scissors. Everything buttoned-up slick as can be.

    The o-ring idea would probably work too. Or maybe a neoprene washer.

    The seat of the valve stills protrudes a bit into the tire "bed", but has caused no issues.

    I also slipped a thin mylar washer between the lock-down nut and rim to keep from marring the paint.



    These valves are tough to beat for anyone going tubeless. They are sturdy, the installation is simple, robust, & fuss-free, they're freakin' light, and CHEAP!

    Black anodized aluminum valve

    Imagine if someone contacted the manufacturer of these little beauties and had them produce a lighter, smaller, bicycle-specific valve?

    Who? Presta? Never heard of 'em!

  61. #61
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    cut the valve stems out of used dirt bike tube(free from m/c shops)
    then grind the sides to fit the v- of the rim. tighten nut. very simple and free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  62. #62
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    I'd like "Going Ghetto" for $1000, Alex.

    Very true, but for someone with weight-weenie tendencies, the steel motorcycle pieces are a bit heavy.

    Still, this thread is about going ghetto, so it's "Simple & Free" for the win!

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Very true, but for someone with weight-weenie tendencies, the steel motorcycle pieces are a bit heavy.

    Still, this thread is about going ghetto, so it's "Simple & Free" for the win!
    If someone is a weight weenie- they are using presta.
    Vassago Cycles, Shadetree Bikes, Flat Tire Bikes, Galfer Brakes USA

  64. #64
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    But someone with weight-weenie tendencies just dabbles in the disease.

    Besides, I believe (just a "hand check" - my scale isn't accurate down in the single-digit grams) the 949Racing schrader valves are lighter than a comparable Presta.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    But someone with weight-weenie tendencies just dabbles in the disease.

    Besides, I believe (just a "hand check" - my scale isn't accurate down in the single-digit grams) the 949Racing schrader valves are lighter than a comparable Presta.
    Yes they are
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  66. #66
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    if you really want accurate pressure readings Schrader is the only way to go.
    with presta you always have a air loss when using a gauge.
    as for as weight,if one can notice the rolling diff. between the 2 they are definitely weight weenies.

  67. #67
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    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?

    Quote Originally Posted by yz129 View Post
    if you really want accurate pressure readings Schrader is the only way to go.
    with presta you always have a air loss when using a gauge.
    Wrong! You are using the wrong gauge. I use a digital presta gauge and lose no more than 0.1psi. Can check a tire 3 times in a row and get the same reading to the tenth.
    mtbtires.com
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  68. #68
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    hey im getting ready to do this, and i cant figure out where the aluminum washer goes?

    between the inside of the rim and the rubber piece?
    between the outside of the rim and the threaded piece you cut down?

    any help would be appreciated.

  69. #69
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    I threw the washer away. If you want to use it, it goes between the threaded piece you cut and the outside of the rim. It's to keep the nut from digging into the rim when you tighten it. When I cut mine, I cut all of the straight portion off, I just have the nut.
    The rubber piece has to fit tight into the inside of the rim as that is what creates the seal for the valve and the hole in the rim.

  70. #70
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    great, thanks so much for the help.

    it just threw me off when the guy who originally posted these valves said that 'every part was used'. and i couldnt figure out where the washer went..

    trying these on my dh bike, mtx 31 rims with 2.5 schwalbie wicked wills, and stans sealant. hoping for the best, as the OG tubless method (cut tube) isnt really tubeless when you think about it

  71. #71
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    If you're doing the cut tube, why not just use the valve from the tube?

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    im not. im doing the gorilla tape method.

    i was just saying that i dont consider the cut tube method to be true 'tubeless', as theres still a tube in there. i was saying that i really hope this works, cause i refuse to do the cut tube method.

    worst comes to worst, the 17 bucks i spent on sealant, 18 bucks spent on 949 valves, and 3 bones spent on gorilla tape will go down in a fiery crash of fail and i will have to put the tubes back in..

  73. #73
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    Gotcha, I miss read. I'm using the valves w/ gorilla tape, and no issues what so ever. Hopefully you'll be as lucky

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    I think I got mine for "949" a ATB shop on the net, they are super nice and light made out of aluminum and then anodize.

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    Glad this got bumped 'cause one thing I've wanted to mention for a while is I don't think these will last forever. I've had 3 or 4 situations where I had to throw a tube in which meant pulling this stem out. After putting it back in at home it was increasingly difficult to get it to seal RIGHT AROUND the stem. Last time I actually had to do the shakey shake thing and then spun the tire all the way around so the stem was on top and let what little sealant would stick up there drain down into the gap around the stem and hole. It took several sessions of doing this but it finally sealed up.

    I think my next "issue" is going to require a new stem. The little bit of rubber around the base of the stem gets compressed and doesn't bounce back to for a great seal.

    Just my experience...

  76. #76
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    Good point. What can be done is replace the shot seal with an o-ring or a neoprene washer -- anything to re-seal that area.


    My set-up is the same as GR1822's (in post #69). Has worked flawlessly all summer. We're about to do a second wheelset. Makes for a great transition to tubeless.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    I think my next "issue" is going to require a new stem. The little bit of rubber around the base of the stem gets compressed and doesn't bounce back to for a great seal.

    Just my experience...
    if you used the 949 valves, just hit up 949 and ask for rubber replacements. i was looking at the rubber insert today, right before i installed them and thought the same thing to myself, "this rubber piece looks like a consumable piece".. hopefully later on down the road when i email em theyll have some.. atleast i ordered 4, so ill be okay for a while.

    anywho, so far so good. pretty amazed at how well it went and how simple the gorilla tape method is.. thanks again for the help GR1822.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Good point. What can be done is replace the shot seal with an o-ring or a neoprene washer -- anything to re-seal that area.


    My set-up is the same as GR1822's (in post #69). Has worked flawlessly all summer. We're about to do a second wheelset. Makes for a great transition to tubeless.
    see the post above this one for a possible 'solution'. sorry, i forgot to multi quote it earlier.

    i ended up using the washer on top of the rim, the rim is wide, so it just barely hangs over a little bit (not enough to bother). i ended up cutting all the extruded portion, and just leaving nut itself. then i snugged it down lightly with a wrench.

  79. #79
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    I just finished installing the 949 valves in my Flow EX 29 rims. I'm so happy to be rid of the stupid prestas and adapters. I've yet to hear a single sound reason for why they are better than schraeders.

    I turned down the caps and nuts on a lathe to shorten them. You could do the same with a vise and a hack saw, or a dremel tool, or just by picking up normal nuts/caps at the hardware store.

    We'll see if i have any trouble holding air. The only reason i would is if i didn't do a clean enough job on the rim tape around the valve stem.

    As a side note, i mounted up a pair of Continental Trail Kind 29 x 2.4 and am pretty disappointed with the width. They measure about 2.2" across the widest part of the tread, what gives! The Maxxis Ardent 2.4 that i took off was a legit 2.4. Hopefully the contis will stretch out a little bit, this is the first time they've been aired up. I doubt it though.


    does my picture show up?
    Bend, OR

  80. #80
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    Picture shows, welcome to the world of schrader tubeless.
    Way more better!

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    I would like to see a step by step on this. I'd like to see all the bits and pieces, as well as the trimming and extra parts.

    I'm still leaning toward using a 20" bike tube, but could be swayed to go this route with the 949s.

  82. #82
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    Try doing a search for 949 in all forums. There is a thread somewhere that shows exactly what you're asking. There may even be a link to it in this thread.
    It's really simple and self explanatory once you get your hands on the stems.

    Edit: look at post #37 of this thread. All of the parts are clearly displayed. The only cut that needs to be made is on the piece that has the nut which turns into a smooth sleeve. Cut it off just above the nut.

  83. #83
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    In case anyone is pondering getting these, 949 gives you free shipping if you buy the minimum 4 valve stems. They don't advertise it anywhere, but when you go to checkout it's free! So that's $17 for 4 valve stems, versus $14 for 2 (after shipping) from heeltoe.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickSmolinske View Post
    In case anyone is pondering getting these, 949 gives you free shipping if you buy the minimum 4 valve stems. They don't advertise it anywhere, but when you go to checkout it's free! So that's $17 for 4 valve stems, versus $14 for 2 (after shipping) from heeltoe.
    Just scored 4. I should be set for a couple dozen years now... (can't pass up such a good deal!)

  85. #85
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    Oh man I wish I had found this a year ago, I fight the presta valves on my stans rim strips every time I have to fill or top them off. Even with the adapter for my air chuck I spend more time trying to get air into the tire than I'd like, almost having to cock the air chuck side ways to get it to air up. And I am using an standard automotive air chuck, not like the ones that the LBS have that slip over.

    I may just have to do the change over, it suck having to fumble around in the bag to find the adapter when I burp a tire off the rim.

  86. #86
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    It's never to late to convert!

    I think when I bought a set recently from 949 it was only $8.50. I remember shipping was free.

  87. #87
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    After tonite I'm done with presta valves for the long haul and the idiotic adapters, I had an adapter cross thread and I ended up breaking the valve inside the stem, the stem is still good as I was able to remove the broken part but I question what the purpose is of Presta valves now>?.

    I had a few choice words to say about the pair, I have always had an issue cross threading and it seemed to line up, except this time it was permanent. All the work topping off my sealant and getting ready for a ride in the morning - out the window. Gotta wait for the worst shopping day of the year just so I can drive down to one of the worst intersections for accidents, so I can ride until an order of 949's arrives next week.

    Am I supposed to remove the Stans rimstrip and just go with gorilla tape in place of that?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlickWilly8019 View Post

    Am I supposed to remove the Stans rimstrip and just go with gorilla tape in place of that?
    I would..
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  89. #89
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    Am I supposed to remove the Stans rimstrip and just go with gorilla tape in place of that?
    I would figure it would be best to run the Stan's tape, as it was specifically designed for tubeless application, unless it was damaged. Or am I missing something...?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    I would figure it would be best to run the Stan's tape, as it was specifically designed for tubeless application, unless it was damaged. Or am I missing something...?
    Stand rim strips and stand tape are 2 different things.... and gorilla tape works better than stands tape, just saw tad heavier
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  91. #91
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    Thanks!

    And Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!

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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    Stand rim strips and stand tape are 2 different things.... and gorilla tape works better than stands tape, just saw tad heavier
    It's also a mutha to get OFF the rim when you need to retape it... Done it once and gonna have to do it again with this next set of Nevegals although I don't plan on cleaning the rims as well as I did last time. Then I removed ALL the residue. This time I'm just gonna pull the tape off and retape it this time.

    Got my new 949s today in the mail and a fresh tub of liquid latex for a new batch of sealant so I'm set to go.

  93. #93
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    I don't bother pulling it unless it has an issue. Orange clean mixed with rubbing alcohol takes the glue from it right off thou, well easier anyway.

    Don't waste $$ on the "bike" Orange stuff. Just go to the Lowe's/home depot/ace hardware and get the gallon for 10 bucks. 75-80% Orange to 20-25% alcohol works great .
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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    I don't usually pull it off but after a handful or burps or other issues that requires the tire be removed means that the tape gets pushed around by the bead. Right now it's a sloppy mess that's been pushed quite a ways into the middle of the rim by the spokes. It's been making the toughest part of the seal being the spokes.

    I'll try the orange and alcohol, though... :thumbsups:

  95. #95
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    Marlin Bonny stock wheels.

    I got my 949 valves a few days ago and just did my front wheel tonight, I gotta say I've never had the joy of messing around with gorilla tape. It sticks to everything it touches, and removes cat hair from cat. It doesn't like to be pulled apart from itself very well, I had a hell of a time doing the taping.

    Also noted the valve sticking up in the center , my work around was loosening the valve enough to force the bead on both sides to go in then I tightened it down, aired it up and had leakage problems. I added the partial bottle of slime since I can see it better and its cheaper to waste, aired up to seat the bead, it leaked down immediately, sprayed more soapy water on it hit it again, leaked down slower this time, hit it for the 3rd time and still lost pressure , added more slime aired up again and waited, still felt cold air but it could be my poor blood circulation playing tricks on my hands.

    Primarily the leakage was coming from the valve stem mount, poured a bath tub of water and fiddled with it for about 10 minutes until I could no longer see the air bubbles. I don't know!!!


    I actually use purple power stuff from walmart for cleaning the bike @ 10-20% solution it doesn't hurt the parts at all, full strength for the chain and then rinse. I used acetone the first time I cleaned the wheel for Stans rim tape and the rimstrip.
    Last edited by SlickWilly8019; 12-20-2013 at 08:30 PM.

  96. #96
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    on the next one.. few points to think about and try. Many will depend on your rim and the situation...

    ..sealing to the tape/rim better...
    1st before installing tape, remount the wheel in the bike or in a wheel truing stand so you can easily rotate it while taping,.. even easier if you have someone helping who can hold- rotate-hold- rotate so you can get the tape super tight.

    2nd, you can get a better hole in the tape if you find a round metal object that is just a tad smaller than the hole in the rim, heat it up and melt the tape to get the hole, this is better than cutting as it's less likely to continue tearing beyond the hole and lead to a leak.

    3rd, before installing the stem, throw a tube and tire in and go for a quick ride around the block... then remove and install the stem. This will seat the tape firmly and push out any air bubbles or odd spots in the tape. Also if you can break just one side of the bead of the tire to get out the tube and install the stem, this will make pumping up much easier later

    4th, installing the stem may take some modification if you have a deep inset of the web in the rim. A couple I did with those stems I had to take a rotary tool and grind off a bit of the inner lip and the rubber seal to get it to sit down inside the web to seal against the tape properly. Another I replaced the wedged shape seal and got a O-ring from a few cents at the local hardware store which got it down below the bead of the rim. All of them I ended up cutting the nut down.

    5th, Seal the stem before installing tire. Many use what ever sealant they are going to use inside the tire and and drip some around the seal and stem before setting the stem and let dry. This works many times and at the least seals 80% so a little leaking of the sealant later during final setup will seal up the stem. I found a MUCH better thing to use is a Poly Caulk.. NOT A LATEX CAULK!! Poly caulks have much better adhesion and a ton better structural strength than latex (basically the same adhesive that gorilla glue/tape use) Put it on the hole and any area of the seal in contact with surface of the stem or rim before tightening down. Let it dry over night if possible. This has never leaked on me ever. I only use PL (now owned by Loctite) Window and door poly caulk, but I hear Dap and other brands are now making a similar caulk. I've never tried them as I always have the PL around for work (I'm a carpenter and it's all I'll use now on my jobs as I know it works plan and simple)


    6th get a syringe and tube unit to inject sealant.. truckerCO.com is selling them for like 3 bucks or something right now and they'll make life SOO much easier and cleaner!! Also when injecting remove the core and before putting the core back in take a cotton swab and stick it in there and clean the seal for the core, this way it doesn't get glued in when you need to service/add sealant... air what ever later.


    Lastly, take your time... The first few times it can take a long time and seem a pain to do all these steps..but after doing a few,.. well I can do a whole conversion in less than a 1/2 hr (not including drying time) Great idea is to do it over a crappy weather weekend so you're not rushing to get out and ride
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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    I like tip #3. In place of #6 I take the air gun and blow some in to clean out any leftover sealant.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    I like tip #3. In place of #6 I take the air gun and blow some in to clean out any leftover sealant.
    ya, that's probably good enough, But I still prefer a solid object swipe over just air. Air still leaves a tad behind that can goop things up That and getting the air nozzle in-between the spokes I always get something hung up LOLOL But ya, again, it's probably more than enough...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  99. #99
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    I removed it and got after the valve stem sealing cone that comes with the 949 valves, I cut a very small piece off the top of the cone and that seems to have worked and is the end all to the air leaking out. I aired that tire up 2 weeks ago to about 50psi or rock hard just to be sure it locked the bead to the rim. I've been out riding and it felt fine Ihavent noticed any significant air loss in the front tire at all so much so I wont have to air it up again for probably another 2 weeks, this will be nice. With presta valves I was having to air up once a week to keep from losing the bead seal and boogering the sealant. I have those stupid tires that aren't any good in mud or rain so I dont go out riding when it rains.

    I'm probably just going to do the rear tire even though its holding up fine. Maybe I'll be able to part with the rimstrips and get some $ back on them.

    I do the 2nd option on both tubeless setups, have a couple of screw drivers that are used for heating and melting stuff together mainly plastic welding. that works but its stinky, its worth noting that if you run 2 layers of tape you may have a raised section of melted tape around the hole it made for sealing the stem difficult, use an exacto knife to soften it up a bit by removing the hardened melted tape portion don't fray the hole.

    Also I first bought the 1.88" wide roll of gorilla tape and split it down the middle, easier said than done, it was still not quite wide enuff for my 29er bonny rim. the 1" wide was just right provided I stretch it as I pull and lay it down. I used an exacto knife to get the sides to look correct.


    Update and ETA:

    As of 1/17/2014 I have yet to add any air the front tire it is still plenty hard and is holding up great. So well in fact that I converted the rear tire to the same and with a little finess I was able to get the tire to hold air in the same manner, it only took more time because of all the punctures in that tire. I would also like to add that if you go with method and use the 1" wide tape and trim it while its on the wheel, go slow, even if you screw up and remove a little too much all you need to do is cut a section of tape long enough + a few inches to cover up the less than ideal areas. I had 2 sections that I got carried away with and I had no issues sealing the tire on the rim.
    Last edited by SlickWilly8019; 01-17-2014 at 02:44 PM.

  100. #100
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    "i was just saying that i dont consider the cut tube method to be true 'tubeless', as theres still a tube in there."

    So what is the current thinking on "split-tube" ghetto rim strip

    Ghetto tubeless conversion DIY: tips and tricks

    vs. just using tape?

    I found this FAQ:

    Need a rim strip: “Can I convert my standard mountain bike rim to tubeless with tape and valve only? No. Without a rubber rim strip your tires will burp air very easily when ridden at normal mountain bike and cyclocross bike air pressures. The rubber rim strip creates a second bead lock between the tire bead and the bottom of the rim. This prevents the tire from loosing air when a force on the side of the tire pushes it away from the sidewall of the rim.”

    NoTubes Recommended Tires

    My concern is a tape-only setup that seems fine and then burps when the tire takes a hard hit at just the wrong angle. I've had this happen with a Stan's strip that doesn't seem to quite fit my wheel/tire combination. It is painful

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by jg1990 View Post
    "i was just saying that i dont consider the cut tube method to be true 'tubeless', as theres still a tube in there."

    So what is the current thinking on "split-tube" ghetto rim strip

    .....

    Need a rim strip: “Can I convert my standard mountain bike rim to tubeless with tape and valve only? No. Without a rubber rim strip your tires will burp air very easily when ridden at normal mountain bike and cyclocross bike air pressures.
    I am very aware of the split tube method. like i said earlier, i dont consider it to be true 'ghetto tubeless' because there is a tube in there, even if its acting like a 'rim strip', it still is a tube. everytime you take your tires off/get new ones you have to buy another tube and cut it up. IMO, youre just wasting money. the 949 valve is the key to getting around this. (i also know Emilio @ 949, good company to support)

    as for the second part i quoted. i disagree. my ghetto tubeless setup consists of gorilla tape, a cut down 949 valve, and stans sealant. that is it. it works great and i dont have to stock up on 20" tubes..

    i just rode a very rocky place two weekends ago on the dh bike, absolutely zero issues of burping or pressure loss.

  102. #102
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    Anyone live near 949 and is willing to ship some up to me. When I want to order some they want $24 just to send them to Canada...ouch.

  103. #103
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    You could always call them and ask it to be sent in a padded envelope.

  104. #104
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    Both sets of mine have arrived in just an envelope, and I think shipping is free to AZ. Why so expensive to ship up north?!!

  105. #105
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    I thought mine did too. Again, best to call them and ask whats up.. I ship a fair amount of things, and i know for a fact it doesnt cost 24 doll hairs to ship a padded envelope to Canada.

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    sweet stupid Stans Presta valve pulled through my Stock Ranger Bontrager rims on my Trek Cobia. I think I'll drive down on my lunch break and pick up a set of these 949 stems

    -=Jason=-

  107. #107
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    You local? Who stocks them?

  108. #108
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    Re: Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?

    Bazinga. I'm Batman I picked these up directly from 949Racing

    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-uploadfromtaptalk1393531040450.jpg

    Tapped via TapaCrap from my HTC One Google Edition running on SinLessROM GE 6.2.0

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudpuppy View Post
    Anyone live near 949 and is willing to ship some up to me. When I want to order some they want $24 just to send them to Canada...ouch.
    this can be arranged. I've never shipped out of the united states but i'm sure a padded envelope shouldn't be that much...

    you can Paypal me, I get them shipped to my work and then just ship them to you.

    -=Jason=-

  110. #110
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    Another 949 fan that HATES presta valves!!
    I have them on order so in time it shal be done!
    Thanks again for posting up the 949s
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  111. #111
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    Do you have to drill out your rims to convert?

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    Re: Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillbo View Post
    Do you have to drill out your rims to convert?
    Schrader valves are 8mm OD while presta is 6mm OD I believe

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  113. #113
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    1st class mail option added for international orders. We are a high performance auto parts retailer but I ride bikes too. 2001 35+ XC national champion

  114. #114
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillbo View Post
    Do you have to drill out your rims to convert?
    Like flomaster said, Schrader valves have a larger diameter, so if your rim is drilled for a thinner Presta valve, yes, the hole does need to be enlarged to convert.

    I have drilled a few rims to accept Schrader valves. It can be tricky and it's near impossible to get the hole perfectly straight & centered with a hand drill.

    The best way I have found to open up the hole is with a 8mm rat-tail file. But WAIT! Don't use the back & forth motion to remove material. Instead, rotate the file counter-clockwise while applying pressure, and here's why;

    The 'teeth' on a rat-tail file are machined in a twisting pattern. If you press the file into a 6mm hole and turn it clockwise it will attempt to thread its way deeper into the hole, possibly getting stuck.

    If you twist it CCW while pushing, it will slowly and evenly remove material without getting stuck, because it is basically trying to un-screw itself out of the hole. And because you are pressing the file into the hole (keeping it from un-screwing), it has no choice but to chew away at the walls of the hole.
    You'll be able to feel what I'm talking about.

    It takes a little patience -- maybe 5 minutes a rim -- but as soon as the 8mm file can pass completely through the rim you will be rewarded with a factory-accurate, straight, centered hole for your new 949 valves.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    ...We are a high performance auto parts retailer but I ride bikes too...
    Emilio,
    Do you have contact with the manufacturer of 949 valves? It would be great to have these same valves but with a longer stem for deeper bicycle rims (the same way Presta valves come in different lengths).

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Emilio,
    Do you have contact with the manufacturer of 949 valves? It would be great to have these same valves but with a longer stem for deeper bicycle rims (the same way Presta valves come in different lengths).
    You might say that. I am the owner of 949 Racing I'm afraid we won't be developing a bicycle specific variant however. The valve cyclists are using was developed specifically for these wheels with high temperature cores.


  117. #117
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    These don't look as nice or polished as the 949s but the similarities are remarkable.

    Amazon.com: B00CQNOK8M

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by HME View Post
    These don't look as nice or polished as the 949s but the similarities are remarkable.

    Amazon.com: B00CQNOK8M
    Whether or not they are as nice looking as the 949s, the question really is will they give you the same 3hp that the 949s do?

  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Whether or not they are as nice looking as the 949s, the question really is will they give you the same 3hp that the 949s do?
    No, of course not. Not without the laser etching.

  120. #120
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    I just want to add, if your rims are drilled for presta valves, you can buy a mavic tubeless stem. It will be a presta stem and will come with an adapter to turn it into a schrader valve. 2 Pack Mavic UST Tubeless Presta Valve Stem Core Kits Bike Wheel Rim Genuine | eBay
    Killing it with close inspection.

  121. #121
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    I just want to add, if your rims are drilled for presta valves, you can buy a mavic tubeless stem. It will be a presta stem and will come with an adapter to turn it into a schrader valve. 2 Pack Mavic UST Tubeless Presta Valve Stem Core Kits Bike Wheel Rim Genuine | eBay

    Is the Mavic set up ant different than just buying one of these?Name:  untitled.png
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    These are good to help seat the bead w/ a compressor, but not much else.

    One of the points of converting to Schradrer valves is the wider diameter valve.
    The homebrew sealant I use always seems to clog a skinny presta valve when I try to put more in. Kind of sucks, since I just got a new bike, and don't want to drill out the rims until they are out of warranty

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by GR1822 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by FireLikeIYA View Post
    I just want to add, if your rims are drilled for presta valves, you can buy a mavic tubeless stem. It will be a presta stem and will come with an adapter to turn it into a schrader valve. 2 Pack Mavic UST Tubeless Presta Valve Stem Core Kits Bike Wheel Rim Genuine | eBay
    One of the points of converting to Schradrer valves is the wider diameter valve.
    The homebrew sealant I use always seems to clog a skinny presta valve when I try to put more in. Kind of sucks, since I just got a new bike, and don't want to drill out the rims until they are out of warranty
    Exactly. It's not the connection of the valve, it's the size and amount of air/sealant you can get through it.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    You might say that. I am the owner of 949 Racing I'm afraid we won't be developing a bicycle specific variant however. The valve cyclists are using was developed specifically for these wheels with high temperature cores.

    That's funny! I've been using your valves on my Mini Cooper for years now.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Emilio,
    Do you have contact with the manufacturer of 949 valves? It would be great to have these same valves but with a longer stem for deeper bicycle rims (the same way Presta valves come in different lengths).
    Slime makes these. I don't know if they are any good though:
    Slime 1 1 4" Schrader Valve Extenders 4 Pack | eBay

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Slime makes these. I don't know if they are any good though:
    Slime 1 1 4" Schrader Valve Extenders 4 Pack | eBay
    I have a set of wheels with tubes that the valve isn't long enough. I got those slime extenders from wally world so I can air them up when I need to. They look pretty dorky if you leave them on, and there's no valve to pull out for the tubeless folks. But to keep in the toolbox and screw on when you need to add air, they work well.

  126. #126
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    Well, I did finally have to replace the gorilla tape since it had a large section that was pushed into the middle. What a mofo that was to remove the tape and tire which had become one, the glue OTH .
    I was delighted that the tubeless conversion lasted 6 months on the rear without needing anything more than a topping off. The front as far as I am concerned is holding up just fine, to this day the front tire is still holding air. The rear despite being retaped is a pain in my butt. I was considering UST rear wheel to combat that issue but I spent the money I saved on something else.
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    yup.. had it happen on lots of rims, presta or not with a variety of stem..

    the fix, a dab of Polyurethane caulk


    I use the caulk cause I have it around being in construction, heard of people using mold builder from the art stores but I think the caulk is cheaper and easier to get a hold of...? depends on what you have around for stores.

    DON'T use latex caulk, it's not structural strong enough nor does it have enough adhesive properties to hold under pressure, it might work for a short time but you will eventually see the sealant leaking out the stem again,...


    only need a little dab what ever you use and spin the stem a few times to get an even distribution before tightening down the tension bolt to the rim... let sit over night to dry is also best.. do all that and the leaks will be gone
    permatex ultra gray from a parts store, or better yet, hondabond from a honda or acura dealer will be much easier to peel off if you have to.

    id add hondabond to my recipes if it wouldn't kill me lol. love that stuff.
    Freedom before comfort.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Emilio,
    Do you have contact with the manufacturer of 949 valves? It would be great to have these same valves but with a longer stem for deeper bicycle rims (the same way Presta valves come in different lengths).
    Sorry to revive this old thread, but I'm of a very similar opinion at this point. Considering the new variation of AM/Enduro wheels that are getting wider and deeper, I need an option of a schrader valve that is like the 44mm-48mm variety. Anyone out there have any ideas? I feel like the only choice there's going to be is cutting up a schrader tube......
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  129. #129
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    Good call, Chris.

    In my mind, sacrificing a schrader tube to get a suitable stem is worth it.
    Adding a dab of polyurethane caulk with a snug locknut should do the deed.

    *thumbsup!*

  130. #130
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    What about presta valves isn't doing it for you?

    My first set of ghetto tubeless wheels (Azonic Outlaws) were schrader-drilled, I believed that since the hole was drilled for schrader, I should do that. I got a 4-pack of valves from Amazon, they were gray and had "RAYS" stamped on the cap.
    I can't say they gave me any issues performance-wise, but it was kinda wonky adding sealant because I pre-fill and re-use the little bottles with the hose attached. Because they were ghetto, breaking the bead to add sealant was asking for a frustrating afternoon. Because that hose doesn't fit over schrader valves, I actually felt like there was more hassle using a syringe squirting sealant in. It kept 'sealing' the valve hole because air was getting in.

    I eventually went to Stan's valves on a schrader-drilled rim and it never failed me.

    The inner diameter is a little narrower on presta, but it's never seemed to cause an issue. I've compared them with engineer's calipers, they're not that much different.

    I've used Stan's, Origin8 and Response Products valves. The Stan's were probably the most durable, being brass. I'm a little bit of a bling-whore and Response makes alloy valves in black, which just seemed necessary when building a new set of matte, un-stickered carbon rims.

  131. #131
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    One of the biggest issues with presta for tubeless is there's just too much constriction in the valve to put serious amounts of air in the tire quickly. If you have a pump that can pump large volumes without the valve core, this gets you a little closer to ideal, but just hooking up to a compressor can be somewhat futile at times with the presta valve, it doesn't matter if you have 50, 100 or 200psi, it doesn't go into the tire any faster and doesn't help you set it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  132. #132
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    Rather than get into a debate of he-said-she-said or why I want this one versus that one, what I'm looking for is essentially this (TruckerCo High Performance Buy Brake pads Tire sealant), but in schrader variation.

    Other than cutting up a schrader tube (which I've still yet to find with a 44 or 48mm valve), are there standalone schrader options that anyone has sourced already? I'm shocked at how long I've searched for this simple item, but all that's out there is aplethora of presta stuff.

    Stan's makes some schrader valves, but only 32mm which are pretty much useless due to the thick depth mountain wheels of today. I did find something possibly from rusindustries, but again, appears the effective valve is only 36.5".

    Found this picture on Wikipedia, but obviously no way to find this
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-schrader_valve_tall.jpg
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    One of the biggest issues with presta for tubeless is there's just too much constriction in the valve to put serious amounts of air in the tire quickly. If you have a pump that can pump large volumes without the valve core, this gets you a little closer to ideal, but just hooking up to a compressor can be somewhat futile at times with the presta valve, it doesn't matter if you have 50, 100 or 200psi, it doesn't go into the tire any faster and doesn't help you set it.
    Take the valve core out, seat tire, fill with sealant, replace valve core, fill tire. Simple. If you don't have the right adapter to fill a presta without the valve core, get one. Or use your C02 inflater. There is no need to use schrader valves for tubeless.

  134. #134
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    Kenda offers tubes with an Extra Long (48mm) Schrader valve option...

    https://www.amazon.com/TUBE-KENDA-70.../dp/B008HKG1R6

    ...but the limited amount of threads will make it tricky to get a lock nut to
    snug everything down.

    I had heard Continental and/or Schwalbe offered tubes with long, fully-threaded Schrader valves, but I haven't been able to find 'em.

    The wide-open port in a Schrader valve makes it a snap to add sealant, which is one of the reasons some people prefer them in a tubeless application.

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Kenda offers tubes with an Extra Long (48mm) Schrader valve option...

    https://www.amazon.com/TUBE-KENDA-70.../dp/B008HKG1R6

    ...but the limited amount of threads will make it tricky to get a lock nut to
    snug everything down.

    I had heard Continental and/or Schwalbe offered tubes with long, fully-threaded Schrader valves, but I haven't been able to find 'em.

    The wide-open port in a Schrader valve makes it a snap to add sealant, which is one of the reasons some people prefer them in a tubeless application.
    EXACTLY! Also, the schrader valve is just more durable for the application, I've had alloy options break on me.

    Those Kenda tubes are perfect. I think I can use those by pushing the valve through and then marking on the rubber where it exits the valve hole. Then I can just trim off the excess rubber that's covering the threads I need. I have to imagine that the valve is fully threaded under/beneath the rubber coating.....
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Kenda offers tubes with an Extra Long (48mm) Schrader valve option...

    https://www.amazon.com/TUBE-KENDA-70.../dp/B008HKG1R6

    ...but the limited amount of threads will make it tricky to get a lock nut to
    snug everything down.

    I had heard Continental and/or Schwalbe offered tubes with long, fully-threaded Schrader valves, but I haven't been able to find 'em.

    The wide-open port in a Schrader valve makes it a snap to add sealant, which is one of the reasons some people prefer them in a tubeless application.
    A stans 2 oz bottle of sealant has a nozzle that (funny thing) fits perfectly in the end of a presta valve with the core removed. Fill the small bottle with your big bottle of sealant, then inject into valve. I do this many times a day. If the shrader valves were easier to use, I would be using/recommending them them. They are no more user friendly than a presta valve with removable core.

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    A stans 2 oz bottle of sealant has a nozzle that (funny thing) fits perfectly in the end of a presta valve with the core removed. Fill the small bottle with your big bottle of sealant, then inject into valve. I do this many times a day. If the shrader valves were easier to use, I would be using/recommending them them. They are no more user friendly than a presta valve with removable core.
    Then keep using presta.

    If someone wants to use schrader, then let them use schrader.
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  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Then keep using presta.

    If someone wants to use schrader, then let them use schrader.
    Easy Turbo.
    I don't think I have eluded that I am stopping anyone from using whatever valve they wish to use. I am just providing some info regarding some of the myths surrounding the various valves used for filling bicycle tires.

  139. #139
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    Back to the "Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless" topic...

    Found a Continental tube with a 40mm, fully-threaded Schrader valve stem;

    https://www.amazon.com/Continental-S.../dp/B01K5I8ZTE

    ...and the same thing in a Schwalbe;

    Schwalbe AV 17 700 X 28-45c Schrader 40mm - Tubes - Components

    Keep us updated with what you find.

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Back to the "Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless" topic...

    Found a Continental tube with a 40mm, fully-threaded Schrader valve stem;

    https://www.amazon.com/Continental-S.../dp/B01K5I8ZTE

    ...and the same thing in a Schwalbe;

    Schwalbe AV 17 700 X 28-45c Schrader 40mm - Tubes - Components

    Keep us updated with what you find.
    I know that 40mm is too short for my wheelset due to rim bed depth. I ordered two of those Kenda 48mm tubes posted above. I'll update here when they arrive and I can tinker with them. Be patient with me. I might forget, so just post in here if I do.
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  141. #141
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    Received the Kenda tubes today. The schrader valve is 48mm, but it's not threaded all the way to where the rubber stops. I could have absolutely sworn that in the picture of the items I ordered the threading went all the way down to the rubber. Perhaps I ordered from the wrong auction. I'll probably send these back......unless you guys think I could use my tap/die set to cut the threading down to where the stem meets the rubber?
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 10-14-2016 at 10:52 PM.
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  142. #142
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    Chris,
    That would be awesome if you have a die that matches the Schrader stem, but they seem to be difficult to find, along with nuts to match that thread.

    "Standard Schrader valve dimension is 7.7 mm OD x 32 tpi, or 0.794 mm pitch."
    "External thread is 0.302 inches (7.7mm) by 32 threads per inch (0.794mm pitch) UNS thread form."

    diameter and pitch air tire valves - Automotive tire/wheel engineering - Eng-Tips


    I say go for threading the Kenda stems (should only be 5-10mm, right?).
    I have a few Schrader-thread nuts (left over from other assemblies), if you find yourself needing some.

  143. #143
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    I used to run motorcycle inner tubes - 3.50-21" m/c fits 26"x4 fat nicely. The schrader valves on those were TR4, which I measure at 28mm length - all threaded, comes with 2 nuts.

    Name:  Brass-TR4-tube-valves-tube-tire-valve.jpg
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    These look interesting:

    Name:  PV78-motorcycle-tube-valve.jpg
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    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    I used to run motorcycle inner tubes - 3.50-21" m/c fits 26"x4 fat nicely. The schrader valves on those were TR4, which I measure at 28mm length - all threaded, comes with 2 nuts.

    Name:  Brass-TR4-tube-valves-tube-tire-valve.jpg
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    These look interesting:

    Name:  PV78-motorcycle-tube-valve.jpg
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    Yeah there's actually tons and tons of fully threaded schrader valves out there, but none that are in the 42-48mm range to fit deep mountain bike rims of today. That's the only problem I'm running into: can't find 42-48mm valves with full threading to be able to use a nut and hold it tight to the rim bed.

    I'm just surprised that there's not the same 42-48mm schrader options just like there is for presta.
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  145. #145
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    Good stuff, wadester.

    But like chrisingrassia said, it looks like the full-length threading still eludes us...

    https://www.dc-autoparts.com/pic/2201141224324.jpg
    https://www.dc-autoparts.com/pic/Q201141221819.jpg
    https://www.dc-autoparts.com/pic/X201141225634.jpg


  146. #146
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    Found these options, but just too short and doesn't appear to be a US site:

    Válvulas Tubeless NO-FLATS JOES SCHRADER 36 mm (x2) - Probikeshop
    2 Valvole tubeless SCHRADER per cerchi mtb | PbikeStore

    **edit**
    Just went out and measured these valves. In my tap/die set I have both a metric and SAE pitch gauge tool. The threads are exactly 0.8 (metric) or 32 (SAE). The schrader valve diameter is 7.5mm. So I need to find, I assume, a 7.5x0.8? Or 0.3x32?

    Cutting the threads down though would be perfect.

    I sent a few emails to some custom tap/die maker shops to get a quote for like 50 of these dies. I'm sure I can't be the only one interested in this schrader tubeless option.
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 10-15-2016 at 05:06 PM.
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  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    ...Cutting the threads down though would be perfect.

    I sent a few emails to some custom tap/die maker shops to get a quote for like 50 of these dies. I'm sure I can't be the only one interested in this schrader tubeless option.
    Which brings us back to what I mentioned in post #115; that we contact the manufacturer of valves already in production (like those nice aluminum 949 pieces), and simply have them do a run with longer stems.

    I was surprised by Emilio's response. I seriously doubt he makes his own valves -- especially since valves identical to "his" can be found under different brand names.

    Racing Valve Stems Aluminium - Type911 - Porsche Parts Shop
    https://guide.alibaba.com/shop/4pc-g...e_9665979.html

    *shrug*

    Again, thanks for the research, Chris.

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Which brings us back to what I mentioned in post #115; that we contact the manufacturer of valves already in production (like those nice aluminum 949 pieces), and simply have them do a run with longer stems.

    I was surprised by Emilio's response. I seriously doubt he makes his own valves -- especially since valves identical to "his" can be found under different brand names. *shrug*

    Again, thanks for the research, Chris.
    Except that Emilio already said "we won't be making that."

    This project would actually be a total friggin' breeze if schrader wasn't some stupid proprietary style. I mean, is there anything else on the planet that uses .305"-32 gauge/pitch? Considering that schrader is also the same for car wheel valves, I thought finding a die would be a no-brainer, but seriously they are impossible to find.
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  149. #149
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    Haha! And Schrader is exalted for being such a proven & long-lasting design; truly an Industry Standard.

    I may draw up a bicycle-specific Schrader valve design and float it to a few of the manufactures in China, like that Alibaba link offers.
    Would like to keep it in the 'States, but the production may be too small to generate any interest.

  150. #150
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    Just from a curiosity standpoint, does anyone know WHY we don't have all the schrader size options like there are for presta?
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  151. #151
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    How long do you need them to be?

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    How long do you need them to be?
    Ideally, 46mm fully threaded tubeless Schrader valve with a flattened butt end Like the AC Presta valves.

    These are essentially exactly what I want as long as they're >44mm.
    Name:  2_Valvole_tubele_50aa597dc6ddb.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    I may draw up a bicycle-specific Schrader valve design and float it to a few of the manufactures in China, like that Alibaba link offers.
    Would like to keep it in the 'States, but the production may be too small to generate any interest.
    Hit me up PM. I'd be down to help source these and go in on investment to bring them to market. I'd imagine they'd sell great in the MTB arena. Would we need to pay licensing to use the Schrader valve?
    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 10-20-2016 at 10:22 AM.
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  153. #153
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    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  154. #154
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    Too short
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  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Hit me up PM. I'd be down to help source these and go in on investment to bring them to market. I'd imagine they'd sell great in the MTB arena. Would we need to pay licensing to use the Schrader valve?
    Sorry, Chris; I've been too busy (sounds familiar, right?) to put any time into this.

    As far as Schrader licensing, I would think the design would only employ purchased Schrader valves, not actually be the valve itself -- it would just be a threaded tube with a rubber boot/seal on one end.

    The NoTubes design is heading in the right direction. I bet different lengths will be offered soon.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Sorry, Chris; I've been too busy (sounds familiar, right?) to put any time into this.

    As far as Schrader licensing, I would think the design would only employ purchased Schrader valves, not actually be the valve itself -- it would just be a threaded tube with a rubber boot/seal on one end.

    The NoTubes design is heading in the right direction. I bet different lengths will be offered soon.
    I totally agree actually, those silver NoTubes just need to be 40mm+. Problem solved.
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  157. #157
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    - Moderators -

    Would this thread be better situated in the Wheels and Tires forum? It has a ton of info and lots of contributors; seems more people could find it in a more 'related' forum.

    Plus, I tried searching for it (without the aid of a hyperlink) and had no clue where it was located.
    Last edited by CaptDan; 11-09-2016 at 02:20 PM.

  158. #158
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    You mean like how the "DIY tire sealant" thread is in the 29er components forum?

    (Actuoolay it's "Best tubeless brew")
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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    A note to Stan's NoTubes with response

    I see you offer two Schrader valve stems for tubeless applications;
    NoTubes item # AS0105 & AS0095
    Valve Stem pair, schrader, 32mm, 10mm base
    Valve Stem pair, schrader, 32mm, 14mm base

    Are they aluminum?

    Are there plans to offer them in different lengths?

    Thank you in advance for your reply.

    --------------------------------------

    The valves are aluminum. No plans at this time to offer them in longer lengths. Will pass your email on to our product manager.

    Bob Nunnink / US Domestic Sales & Marketing Manager
    Stan's NoTubes

    --------------------------------------
    Many thanks to wadester for providing the Stan's valves info.

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdan View Post
    i see you offer two schrader valve stems for tubeless applications;
    notubes item # as0105 & as0095
    valve stem pair, schrader, 32mm, 10mm base
    valve stem pair, schrader, 32mm, 14mm base

    are they aluminum?

    Are there plans to offer them in different lengths?

    Thank you in advance for your reply.

    --------------------------------------

    the valves are aluminum. No plans at this time to offer them in longer lengths. Will pass your email on to our product manager.

    Bob nunnink / us domestic sales & marketing manager
    stan's notubes

    --------------------------------------
    many thanks to wadester for providing the stan's valves info.
    downvote!!!! =)

    Let's connect and bring'em to market. Do you work in drafting/engineering or something?
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  161. #161
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    I do drafting/design for automotive, but mostly plastic parts.
    Still, it would simply take a few measurements and a material call-out to have one of these on a sheet of paper and sitting in front of a manufacturer.

    I don't know the production realm that well, but we can figure that a short run (20-50 pieces) may be expensive, but if the lathe work could be automated cost-per-piece would come down fast.

    There are a ton of short-run/pre-production/prototype shops around here. It would take some leg-work, but it's do-able.

  162. #162
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    Aloha,

    So I am researching this too. I ran into the very problem several of you are experiencing because my new build (I've been using the al valves for several years now with no issues). So on this new build, I was surprised to find the deeper rim does not allow me to easily install my pump (not enough stem sticking through). At home this isn't much of an issue but out on the trail this could be an issue.

    Anyway, so if I were to make a longer valve, how long would you like it to be? I've played with the Stans and others and yes, aluminum and longer are pre-requisites. Let me know, I'll look into getting a number of them made.

    Also, other then the fact that maybe we might want a cap to screw on to the stem, is there any other reason why we HAVE to have that none-standard threading? Just thinking out loud.

    Let's see if we can make this happen. Once and for all.

  163. #163
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    Here is the setup I just completed this weekend and got seal up great with Gorilla tape and Stan's sealant.

    I bought 40mm Schwalbe tubes and cut out the valve. I had to drill out my valve hole just on the rim bed so I could get the valve to sit as flush on the bed as possible (the rubber platform is wider than Schrader width); the spoke-side valve hole was already drilled for Schrader. Then I epoxy'd the valve to the rim 360-degrees. Makes it completely airtight. Wrapped the rim bed in Gorilla, used an exacto knife to cut right up against where the epoxy sits, and then epoxy'd the ends of the Gorilla tape that I cut so they are also airtight.

    I think it's pretty obvious this is exactly why I'd just simply like a 44mm Schrader valve tubeless option. I'm done using aluminum presta valves, I'm converting all my MTB's over to this Schrader setup. It works awesome and is much tougher.


    Last edited by chrisingrassia; 11-29-2016 at 12:35 AM.
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  164. #164
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    Having had to replace my valve stems on several occasions, not to mention having had to throw in a tube to get me back home a handful of times, I would never epoxy the stem to the rim.

    If I needed the longer stem you do I would have simply used the split tube method instead. YMWV, obviously...

    Give us a long-term review in a year or so!

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Having had to replace my valve stems on several occasions, not to mention having had to throw in a tube to get me back home a handful of times, I would never epoxy the stem to the rim.

    If I needed the longer stem you do I would have simply used the split tube method instead. YMWV, obviously...

    Give us a long-term review in a year or so!
    Will do. I carry a small bottom of Stan's in my pack when I ride to fill it up if it flats. That's what those little bottles are for
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  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Having had to replace my valve stems on several occasions, not to mention having had to throw in a tube to get me back home a handful of times, I would never epoxy the stem to the rim.

    If I needed the longer stem you do I would have simply used the split tube method instead. YMWV, obviously...

    Give us a long-term review in a year or so!
    Will do. I carry a small bottom of Stan's in my pack when I ride to fill it up if it flats. That's what those little bottles are for
    Stan's won't seal everything. A larger hole or sidewall tear will cause a nice hike back to the TH if you can't put a tube in. Hopefully, it's not too far and you are running flat pedals. That's why most of us carry a tube AND boot of some kind.

    And, that's assuming your not a dumbass like me and forget to check that you actually have sealant in the tire...

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Stan's won't seal everything. A larger hole or sidewall tear will cause a nice hike back to the TH if you can't put a tube in. Hopefully, it's not too far and you are running flat pedals. That's why most of us carry a tube AND boot of some kind.

    And, that's assuming your not a dumbass like me and forget to check that you actually have sealant in the tire...
    I definitely hear what you're saying. But in my 10yrs riding MTB, never had that issue once. I realize it only takes just once for it to happen, but I keep a good maintenance schedule on my rigs.

    Gosh, if only a 44mm Schrader tubeless valve existed for me then......
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  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I definitely hear what you're saying. But in my 10yrs riding MTB, never had that issue once. I realize it only takes just once for it to happen, but I keep a good maintenance schedule on my rigs.
    Cool. Just wanted to make sure you knew where I was coming from.

  169. #169
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    Another option for the Schrader crowd...

    Schrader Valve (8 colors available)

    These appear to be about 35mm long, but it sounds like they will be expanding the product line with longer versions to match their Presta offerings.

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Another option for the Schrader crowd...

    Schrader Valve (8 colors available)

    These appear to be about 35mm long, but it sounds like they will be expanding the product line with longer versions to match their Presta offerings.
    You guys aren't gonna believe this, but I just emailed Derek at Speed Evolution and these Schrader valves are 45mm.

    Son of a b*tch!!!!
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  171. #171
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    I just ordered a pair of Speed Evolution Schrader stems for my Derby carbon wheelset.
    Will report back when they arrive...

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    I just ordered a pair of Speed Evolution Schrader stems for my Derby carbon wheelset.
    Will report back when they arrive...
    I was literally just about to order two sets of the black ones right when you posted this. I have two other bikes I want to convert to Schrader, so I'd like to really hear from you about how well they sit in your rim bed and how well they seal up tubeless. I don't like that it doesn't have a flattened flange at the base, but I like a lot that it has a locking ring/nut.
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  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    ...I don't like that it doesn't have a flattened flange at the base...
    Yeah, in that respect Wistio is ahead of the curve, with a variety of seal configurations...

    Aluminium Tubeless Valve Stem - Wistio

    But I am sure there is some sort of flange at the base of the stem on the Speed Evo unit; otherwise the seal would just slide off when the nut was over-tightened. *shrug*

    I'll pull the seal when the stems arrive and check it out.

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    But I am sure there is some sort of flange at the base of the stem on the Speed Evo unit; otherwise the seal would just slide off when the nut was over-tightened. *shrug*
    Eaxctly why the flange on the bottom is necessary.



    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    I'll pull the seal when the stems arrive and check it out.
    Did you just spend $30 to cut them up right when you get them?
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  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    ...Did you just spend $30 to cut them up right when you get them?
    LOL! No, no, I'm reasonably sure those seals are molded with a groove in them that matches a flange or step machined into the stem; similar to the other Schrader stems (949, Stan's, etc.) I have tried. Those seals are all removable/replaceable.

  176. #176
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    Speed Evolution Schrader stems

    Received the stems today. Pretty quick shipping from the West Coast to the Mid-west.

    The seal appears to be bonded to the stem; there was no way I could remove it without damaging it. But when you squeeze the seal you can feel a ridge inside, and the bottom of the stem appears to be flared (for lack of a better term).

    "Working length" (threaded portion) of the stem is 35mm.

    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2386_zpscxwogy9h.jpg

    The Presta valve had been installed in my rim. It stuck out about 25mm.
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2387_zpsp01h3jqs.jpg

    The Presta stem is about 45mm long, so this means the rim is about 20mm deep.
    I opened-up the stem hole in the rim by using a 8mm file like a ream; twisting it, instead of sawing back-and-forth. This keeps the hole round and centered.

    The rubber seal is small, but it makes for a tight fit to the hole
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2399_zpsxwesi7tg.jpg

    The cool lock nut (with protective o-ring) is easy to snug down, but is dang thick.
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2390_zps7ln5z634.jpg

    It's soo thick the cap doesn't have enough room to thread all the way down (but it is a tall, deep cap). I will switch to a thinner locknut from another valve, or just use a regular plastic cap.

    Sorry for the crappy pics. I was in a hurry to post this, but you get the idea.

    I didn't air-up the tires/wheels, but I have no doubt they will seal fine. In fact, I expect these stems will seal better than the Presta stems, whose seal was a stiff plastic blade that didn't conform well to the rim bed... and leaked.

    These stems are ideal for this installation. They weigh freaking nothing, and seem very well designed and made. But if you have a deeper rim they may not be long enough.
    Last edited by CaptDan; 11-22-2016 at 05:42 PM.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    Received the stems today. Pretty quick shipping from the West Coast to the Mid-west.

    The seal appears to be bonded to the stem; there was no way I could remove it without damaging it. But when you squeeze the seal you can feel a ridge inside, and the bottom of the stem appears to be flared (for lack of a better term).

    "Working length" (threaded portion) of the stem is 35mm.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Presta valve had been installed in my rim. It stuck out about 25mm.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Presta stem is about 45mm long, so this means the rim is about 20mm deep.
    I opened-up the stem hole in the rim by using a 8mm file like a ream; twisting it, instead of sawing back-and-forth. This keeps the hole round and centered.

    The rubber seal is small, but it makes for a tight fit to the hole
    Attachment 1106597

    The cool lock nut (with protective o-ring) is easy to snug down, but is dang thick.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's soo thick the cap doesn't have enough room to thread all the way down. I will switch to a thinner locknut from another valve, or just use a regular plastic cap.

    Sorry for the crappy pics. I was in a hurry to post this, but you get the idea.

    I didn't air-up the tires/wheels, but I have no doubt they will seal fine. In fact, I expect these stems will seal better than the Presta stems, whose seal was a stiff plastic blade that didn't conform well to the rim bed... and leaked.

    These stems are ideal for this installation. They weigh freaking nothing, and seem very well designed and made. But if you have a deeper rim they may not be long enough.

    Awesome research there. So question, could you find a thinner o-ring/rubber washer for the lock nut? That might buy you a bit. I was doing some measurements and figured 40 mm might be a good length? Thanks again for being the guinea pig.

  178. #178
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    I feel like my answer to that experiment, CaptDan.....again.....is "too bad, unfortunately". That lock nut is sweet though, reminds me of the Super Nut from Problem SOlvers for the presta valves. A handy feature to crank it tight.
    A 48mm schrader valve with flattened flange is all this market needs.

    These, but 48mm long.
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  179. #179
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    Chris, I wouldn't rule out the small seal design completely.
    Personally, I prefer the soft rubber seal to the metal flange/O-ring design. The small soft seal fits snuggly in the hole and easily seals the contact area without a lot of torque on the lock nut. Whereas a large flange cannot conform to the curved bed of a rim, and a firm rubber O-ring is not soft enough to squish down and seal the gaps.

    I used stems similar to the pbike pieces (shown in your post) in my first attempt at Schrader tubeless in Bontrager Mustang hoops. It was a nightmare getting the stem to seal because the rim bed had a pretty deep contour. Ended up using a couple of soft neoprene washers to fill the gaps but even that didn't hold in the long run. Plus, the stems are steel and heavy.

    The 949 Racing stems were a big improvement because the big, soft seal could deform enough to seat on the rim, but you still had to crank the hex lock nut down really tight to get it sealed.

    Your installation may be such that a large flat sealing area is available, but the hoops I have used (5 different brands) have all been curved, so I plan on updating all my wheels with the Speed Evo stems, because they overcome all the shortcomings of the other Schrader setups I'm using.

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    ...could you find a thinner o-ring/rubber washer for the lock nut? That might buy you a bit.
    I'll be swapping in a thinner hex lock nut, with a thin nylon washer underneath to protect the rim. Then take some measurements.
    Another nice thing about the conically-shaped seal is that it fits deeper into the rim. That should give an extra MM or so.

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptDan View Post
    I'll be swapping in a thinner hex lock nut, with a thin nylon washer underneath to protect the rim. Then take some measurements.
    Another nice thing about the conically-shaped seal is that it fits deeper into the rim. That should give an extra MM or so.
    I agree on the conical seal. I cut mine down (shorter) from the 949 Racing valves to take up less room to better fit in the curve of the rim. Seems to deform to fit and seal better in a none-flat rim base. I also turned the diameter of my valves down and thinned them out to get as much drop in to the base of the rim. I installed these valves pretty much untouched (except for the turned down lock nut) on to my friend's Stan's rims. We had to loosen the valve up to get the bead to seat on the rim prior to cranking down on the nut to seat the valve. The newer, modified version I have now should allow him to seat a tire without having to loosen the valve.

    By the way, I turned down the lock nut on my valves a lot on a lathe as well. Good luck, look forward to seeing the updates.

  182. #182
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    Great stuff, gmats! I did basically the same things as you to make the 949 stems work.

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    Speed Evolution Schrader stems with different lock nuts

    Tiny Presta-type locknut from a Stan's or pbikestore Schrader stem; 3mm thick...
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2393_zps8mstctmp.jpg
    This locknut leaves about 12mm of exposed threads.

    An aluminum hex locknut from an automotive stem; 4mm thick...
    Threaded Schrader valve for ghetto tubeless?-dscn2396_zpsoc3elclt.jpg

    This is in a 20mm-deep rim, so theoretically you could run this valve stem in a 25mm-deep hoop and still have 5-7mm of exposed stem to get a pump nozzle on.

  184. #184
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    You people sure do love to beat your head against a wall, don't you?

  185. #185
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    Do you have anything useful/constructive to add to the thread?

    Or do you just troll around being a condescending internet tough guy?
    Move along, Scott.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    You people sure do love to beat your head against a wall, don't you?
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    You people sure do love to beat your head against a wall, don't you?
    These are the fun little challenges that some people enjoy solving.

    Surely you can relate in some way, Scott.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Do you have anything useful/constructive to add to the thread?

    Or do you just troll around being a condescending internet tough guy?
    Move along, Scott.
    Condescending? It was a simple question, that in my eyes has merit. How much money/time are you guys going to invest in a non-existent (for most), problem? I am genuinely curious.
    I added the useful information earlier in the thread. You dismissed it.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    Condescending? It was a simple question, that in my eyes has merit. How much money/time are you guys going to invest in a non-existent (for most), problem? I am genuinely curious.
    I added the useful information earlier in the thread. You dismissed it.
    Yeah, I have to agree. I've been using presta on my tubless setups for years now. I haven't come close to having any problems or issues. What problems/issues are you guys having?

  189. #189
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    This entire f*cking thread is about threaded Schrader valves for tubeless. What value do your comments of "Prestas work fine for me" have for this dialogue? At all, in any way, shape, or form?

    Great; presta valves work for you. Your little 2oz Stans bottles work for you; great. Stop trying to play it off like your passive-aggressive troll comment was "a simple question".
    Unsubscribe. Move along. Seriously. You've added nothing to the thread thus far except "these work just fine for me, you don't need those, just do what I do."


    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    Condescending? It was a simple question, that in my eyes has merit. How much money/time are you guys going to invest in a non-existent (for most), problem? I am genuinely curious.
    I added the useful information earlier in the thread. You dismissed it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Yeah, I have to agree. I've been using presta on my tubless setups for years now. I haven't come close to having any problems or issues. What problems/issues are you guys having?
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    This entire f*cking thread is about threaded Schrader valves for tubeless. What value do your comments of "Prestas work fine for me" have for this dialogue? At all, in any way, shape, or form?

    Great; presta valves work for you. Your little 2oz Stans bottles work for you; great. Stop trying to play it off like your passive-aggressive troll comment was "a simple question".
    Unsubscribe. Move along. Seriously. You've added nothing to the thread thus far except "these work just fine for me, you don't need those, just do what I do."
    Someone's camel toe is all jammed up! No, I think I'll stay. Stans is shit, I don't use it anymore. There are better options out there. So, answer the question: what problems/issues do you have with presta valves? This is like trying to invent a better mouse trap. It's a big waste of time. Because the current valves work as good as valves can work. What more do you want them to do?

  191. #191
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    No one's "camel toe" is jammed anywhere. What difference does it make what sealant you use? Who cares.

    Who said anyone was having issues with presta valves? That's not the point of the thread (although I personally have had thin-wall presta valves break on me). It doesn't matter if anyone is having issues or not. That's an irrelevant inquiry. If you use presta valves, do your thang. Some of us want to use Schrader valves, not presta. So we're looking for fully-threaded Schrader options that offer a similar length to that of presta offerings.

    Why is that so difficult to grasp? Go look at the title of the thread. You bringing up "presta this, presta that" is useless.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Someone's camel toe is all jammed up! No, I think I'll stay. Stans is shit, I don't use it anymore. There are better options out there. So, answer the question: what problems/issues do you have with presta valves? This is like trying to invent a better mouse trap. It's a big waste of time. Because the current valves work as good as valves can work. What more do you want them to do?
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    No one's "camel toe" is jammed anywhere. What difference does it make what sealant you use? Who cares.

    Who said anyone was having issues with presta valves? That's not the point of the thread (although I personally have had thin-wall presta valves break on me). It doesn't matter if anyone is having issues or not. That's an irrelevant inquiry. If you use presta valves, do your thang. Some of us want to use Schrader valves, not presta. So we're looking for fully-threaded Schrader options that offer a similar length to that of presta offerings.

    Why is that so difficult to grasp? Go look at the title of the thread. You bringing up "presta this, presta that" is useless.
    Well, at least you admit that you have a camel toe. That's a start in the right direction. What are you trying to achieve by using Schrader valves? Its a heavier valve that makes your rim weaker. It's kinda like looking for a better pain killer, when you have no pain. And when you find that pain killer, it gives you pain.

  193. #193
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    Agree'd. All we are trying to do is solve a problem because somehow, some way the solution doesn't exist at the moment. So we already know that presta valves exist. Good for all that are happy with that. Some of us like solving problems and making things better for what we want. That in itself is fun. And if you don't want to use schrader, no problem. More power to you.

    Schrader valves are not heavier. They do not make the rims weaker. Where is the data? So why don't they use presta valves on cars, trucks, motorcycles if they are so good?

    Anyway, back to the discussion.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    Agree'd. All we are trying to do is solve a problem because somehow, some way the solution doesn't exist at the moment. So we already know that presta valves exist. Good for all that are happy with that. Some of us like solving problems and making things better for what we want. That in itself is fun. And if you don't want to use schrader, no problem. More power to you.

    Schrader valves are not heavier. They do not make the rims weaker. Where is the data? So why don't they use presta valves on cars, trucks, motorcycles if they are so good?

    Anyway, back to the discussion.
    Prestas are lighter and I've seen rims break at the hole. One of them being my schrader Rhyme Lite. Again, what problems/issues are you guys trying to solve? Bikes are much different than motorcycles and cars. It makes perfect sense that their tire valves would be different.

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Prestas are lighter and I've seen rims break at the hole. One of them being my schrader Rhyme Lite. Again, what problems/issues are you guys trying to solve? Bikes are much different than motorcycles and cars. It makes perfect sense that their tire valves would be different.
    You keep asking the same question of what are we trying to solve. Rather than keep asking it over and over and over, take a look above and see what we're trying to accomplish.
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Prestas are lighter and I've seen rims break at the hole. One of them being my schrader Rhyme Lite. Again, what problems/issues are you guys trying to solve? Bikes are much different than motorcycles and cars. It makes perfect sense that their tire valves would be different.
    OK fine. Your experience. My Schrader valves at the moment are 5 grams. I have not yet had a rim fail in 30+ years of mountain biking because of Schrader valves. So what are you trying to convince us of? Enough already. If we want to play in this sandbox with these toys, that's cool, we're not hurting you, go play in your own sandbox. Say it once. Good. But the debate is not whether Presta or Schrader is better. That's not this discussion. This is like trying to debate whether a 29er or 27.5 or 26 is the best.........Who cares? We're riding mountain bikes and some of us like to engineer and tinker.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    You keep asking the same question of what are we trying to solve. Rather than keep asking it over and over and over, take a look above and see what we're trying to accomplish.
    Yeah, I read the whole thing. That's the point, you're not trying to accomplish anything. Unless you're such a total hack that you break presta valves or you're so stupid that you can't seat a tire by putting air through a presta stem or if your this poor guy, "Thanks guys I know I can accomplish what I want with a bmx tube I just remember seeing one of the threaded schrader valves and thought it would be cool. Yea its all about cool factor for me not just function". This is really hilarious, almost six and a half years of this thread and 196 posts and you lamos can't figure out a solution Unbelievable ****ing fail!!

  198. #198
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    M'kay, first off - hey! Thanks for sharing your religious beliefs!

    And thanks for helping me find the ignore list!

    Oops! All outta troll food now, so buh-bye!
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Yeah, I read the whole thing. That's the point, you're not trying to accomplish anything. Unless you're such a total hack that you break presta valves or you're so stupid that you can't seat a tire by putting air through a presta stem or if your this poor guy, "Thanks guys I know I can accomplish what I want with a bmx tube I just remember seeing one of the threaded schrader valves and thought it would be cool. Yea its all about cool factor for me not just function". This is really hilarious, almost six and a half years of this thread and 196 posts and you lamos can't figure out a solution Unbelievable ****ing fail!!
    At 12,248 posts, you sure do have a lot of time on your hands to provide nothing to a thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    M'kay, first off - hey! Thanks for sharing your religious beliefs!

    And thanks for helping me find the ignore list!

    Oops! All outta troll food now, so buh-bye!
    Good call. I didn't know that was a function. Did it as well.
    **I don't subscribe to threads. Just PM me if you have a question/comment for me. **

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    At 12,248 posts, you sure do have a lot of time on your hands to provide nothing to a thread.



    Good call. I didn't know that was a function. Did it as well.
    Time? I'm not the one who's spent 6.5 years solving a problem that doesn't exist, with nothing to show for it. Epic fail!

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