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Thread: Stan rim strip

  1. #1
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    Stan rim strip [Follow up]

    [Follow up]
    So I coverted both front and rear tires to ghetto this weekend. Im running an Ardent 2.4 Exo up front and a Geax Neuron 2.5 in the rear. Both on DT M480 rims. Taping was no issues at all and I had several old tubes laying around for valve stems. I used my WSS v2 sealant and both tires hooked up with a blast from the compressor. No noticable air loss over 2 days and put 12 miles on the front wheel Sunday. Each wheel took about 20 min or about 2 beers. Thanks to everyone again.

    So Im sick and tired of getting flats on my Slayer. Even the goo filled tubes have little effect. I dont have the money to build a UST wheelset so Im looking at the Stans No Tube solution. The rims on my bike are the DT M480's. Is this the only thing I need? I cant tell if I need the Stans rim tape or not if Im using the rim strip. Im using my own sealant. WSS v2
    Stan's Standard Rim Strip at Price Point
    Last edited by Douger-1; 10-24-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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  2. #2
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    I have a bike set up with the strips. Pretty sure I just used the rim tape that was already on the rim to cover the spoke holes and put the strip over top of that. Only other thing you'll probably need to do is drill the valve hole a little bigger. Hard to explain but the rubber that connects to the valve stem on the strip is a little thicker and needs the slightly larger valve hole to fit properly. If you check out the Stans site he explains this in the how-to vid which is very helpful. I've been happy with this setup.

  3. #3
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    i have two 26" stan rim strips 4 sale. installed once and removed immediately as couldn't get tires to seal. no fault of the rim strips, the WTB rims were too deep. they sell for ~$25 each. both of them for $28.50. i live near alma school and the 60.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Stan rim strip-rims.jpg  

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  4. #4
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    I've been using Gorilla tape as my rim tape. Super cheap and it stays in place very well. I've had zero issues with it. A roll is about $7 and you could probably do 20 tires (or some other impressive number like that). Its good if you've had tube issues, because then you'll have lots of flat ones around from which you can cut out the stems to finish the tubeless setup. You've already got the ghetto sauce - might as well go full ghetto!
    Today's the day I eat bikes.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dag Nabbit View Post
    I've been using Gorilla tape as my rim tape. Super cheap and it stays in place very well. I've had zero issues with it. A roll is about $7 and you could probably do 20 tires (or some other impressive number like that). Its good if you've had tube issues, because then you'll have lots of flat ones around from which you can cut out the stems to finish the tubeless setup. You've already got the ghetto sauce - might as well go full ghetto!
    Me too!
    Plus if you use the rim strips pictured and you need to put a tube in on the trail for some reason, it's a mess. WSS staines clothes (I found out the hard way, and have a shirt with white streaks all over it) and the strip will be covered in the sauce. With gorilla tape, all you need to remove is the valve.
    Easy peasy japaneezy!

  6. #6
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    Yep, all you need is gorilla tape , you do not need any strips or goofy split tubes to get in the way and make a mess .

    I Have been building wheels with tape for years for guys , I remember when I came on mtbr and was the one who brought the tape to this board , everyone slammed me really bad for about 6 months, and now 3 years later almost everyone has gone to tape .

    I really recommend the use of "Stans Sealant" tho .....way less mess and problems with the stans than any homebrew ever.

  7. #7
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    Gorilla tape works great, so does my homebrew.

  8. #8
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    Gorilla tape has been working for me for 1.5 years without any issues.

    When you put it on figure out how wide the tape needs to be
    Cut the end of the tape on the roll to that width
    Then put it on the rim off from the roll ripping to the cut width as you pull it off the roll.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by mtnbiketodd; 10-21-2011 at 01:01 PM.

  9. #9
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    Wow ok. Glad I didnt buy anything yet. You all have shown me the light and have saved me about $40. Thank you for your input.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  10. #10
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    OK, who's got the link to those sweet, black Schrader valves that you screw onto your rims when using the Gorilla Tape method? I thought I had them bookmarked but I'll be damned if I can find it. I think they had a big 959 or something on them. They were from an auto parts/racing retailer.

    When I get my Outlaws I think I'm gonna go Gorilla Tape (again) with those big Schrader valves instead of the little Presta valves I've got now.

  11. #11
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    PS: I always carry a spare tube incase of a big tear. A piece of milk jug too, so the tube doesn't 'balloon' out of the tear if I get one.
    Happy ghettoing!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    OK, who's got the link to those sweet, black Schrader valves that you screw onto your rims when using the Gorilla Tape method? I thought I had them bookmarked but I'll be damned if I can find it. I think they had a big 959 or something on them. They were from an auto parts/racing retailer.

    When I get my Outlaws I think I'm gonna go Gorilla Tape (again) with those big Schrader valves instead of the little Presta valves I've got now.
    Black anodized aluminum valve
    In case the link doesn't work; page 2 of the AZ forum
    "Tubeless trouble... help" started by fiveo
    I'm looking to get the same ones

  13. #13
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    Yes, just ordered two. Free USPS shipping

  14. #14
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    I've got the same tire sealed up for over a year using the bmx 20" ghetto method but I really wanna try the gorilla tape now.
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

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    Quote Originally Posted by azdog View Post
    I've got the same tire sealed up for over a year using the bmx 20" ghetto method but I really wanna try the gorilla tape now.
    Honestly, I think the ghetto-tube method is probably better than the Gorilla Tape method. You've got A LOT more rubber with which to make a seal. At least in theory it seems it would be better.

    For me getting the 1" tape and wrapping the rim seemed easier than the tube. Plus, if you have to a bead to add sealant, remove boogers, it could be difficult to impossible to get your tube back into place. That also is a theory and I don't know if it is in fact difficult to do this.

    So, I guess the ghetto-tube seems better but tape is much easier.

  16. #16
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    You guys are blowin me away. I'm just gettin back on a bike after nearly 10 years. When I quit ridin, nobody had gps, nobody was filming their rides, disk brakes were just starting to appear on a few high end bikes, and nobody I knew was running tubless.

    So for the benefit of this out of touch old fart...would somebody care to expand on this post? Like...How do you figure out how wide the tape needs to be? Just wide enough to cover the spoke holes? Wide enough to fit in the rim channel side to side? Wider than that?

    And mtnbiketodd's last sentence. You mean as you pull it off the roll...not the rim, right? Or am I missing something?

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiketodd View Post
    Gorilla tape has been working for me for 1.5 years without any issues.

    When you put it on figure out how wide the tape needs to be
    Cut the end of the tape on the roll to that width
    Then put it on the rim off from the roll ripping to the cut width as you pull it off the rim.

    Good luck!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    You guys are blowin me away. So for the benefit of this out of touch old fart...would somebody care to expand on this post? Like...How do you figure out how wide the tape needs to be? Just wide enough to cover the spoke holes? Wide enough to fit in the rim channel side to side? Wider than that?
    A 1" roll of Gorilla Tape will cover the inside channel of most "normal" rims. When you get into wider rims you may need to do it in halfs. I've got a set of Outlaws on the way and they are probably 3/8" wider than my old rims. I plan on making two passes: one for the left side of the rim channel and one for the right.

    I could be off base, though. My understanding was that the tape was meant to make a bond with the tire, rim, and sealant much like the split-tube version of ghetto. Not just to cover up the holes. If I'm wrong, someone correct me as it'll be much easier just rolling one strip down the center of the wheel covering the spoke holes.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    I could be off base, though. My understanding was that the tape was meant to make a bond with the tire, rim, and sealant much like the split-tube version of ghetto. Not just to cover up the holes. If I'm wrong, someone correct me as it'll be much easier just rolling one strip down the center of the wheel covering the spoke holes.
    The tape only has to cover the holes. The tire should make contact with the rim itself. I just buy the 3" roll of tape so I can make it any size I want to fit the rim channel. Cutting it to size is a piece of cake - just start a tear for the size you want, then rip it all the way down the length of tape - the Gorilla tape tears in straight lines. I'd pass on doing two passes of 1" tape and just make a width specific for your rim. I've had the same tape in my tires for about a year without issue. The bonus is that when you need to put a tube in, you only have to remove the stem and not the tape, whereas with the tube method, you have to pull out the whole deal. Breaking the bead to add more sealant and then resealing the tire hasn't given me much trouble either.
    Today's the day I eat bikes.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dag Nabbit View Post
    The tape only has to cover the holes. The tire should make contact with the rim itself. I just buy the 3" roll of tape so I can make it any size I want to fit the rim channel. Cutting it to size is a piece of cake - just start a tear for the size you want, then rip it all the way down the length of tape - the Gorilla tape tears in straight lines. I'd pass on doing two passes of 1" tape and just make a width specific for your rim. I've had the same tape in my tires for about a year without issue. The bonus is that when you need to put a tube in, you only have to remove the stem and not the tape, whereas with the tube method, you have to pull out the whole deal. Breaking the bead to add more sealant and then resealing the tire hasn't given me much trouble either.
    Sounds like you have to have extremely new tires in order to do this and perfect rims. The tube method allows for some flexibility with rim jackedness.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by azdog View Post
    Sounds like you have to have extremely new tires in order to do this and perfect rims. The tube method allows for some flexibility with rim jackedness.
    I've done it with old tires, but my rims are in pretty good shape - certainly nothing like Big O's rim. Holy Cow! He doesn't even have to worry about tubeless because I don't even think he rides with tires on there!

    However, if I take the tire off that has been set up for a while, I'll have to clean the bead to get it to reseal though. The homebrew goop really beads up on the bead and prevent a new seal from forming.
    Today's the day I eat bikes.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dag Nabbit View Post
    I've done it with old tires, but my rims are in pretty good shape - certainly nothing like Big O's rim. Holy Cow! He doesn't even have to worry about tubeless because I don't even think he rides with tires on there!

    However, if I take the tire off that has been set up for a while, I'll have to clean the bead to get it to reseal though. The homebrew goop really beads up on the bead and prevent a new seal from forming.
    Right on, might need to try it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dag Nabbit View Post
    The tape only has to cover the holes. The tire should make contact with the rim itself... I'd pass on doing two passes of 1" tape and just make a width specific for your rim.
    Good to know. Saved me some time and tape.

  23. #23
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    Centurion,

    Yes the last rim should have been roll.

    I purchased the 2" wide tape after watching an internet video showing how to use the tape. In the video the guy pulled off enough tape to wrap around the rim, then cut it and put it on the rim. He used the other part of the tape to do the other rim.

    Well when I tried this I ended up all wrapped up in tape and ended up pitching it. Then I said to myself get the tape on the roll started to rip at the width I need them just roll it off the roll onto the rim at that width.

    Well it worked great!!! I did 4 rims without any problems in this way.

    I did tape like carpet is done wall to wall (rim wall to rim wall).
    Last edited by mtnbiketodd; 10-21-2011 at 01:49 PM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Honestly, I think the ghetto-tube method is probably better than the Gorilla Tape method. You've got A LOT more rubber with which to make a seal. At least in theory it seems it would be better.

    For me getting the 1" tape and wrapping the rim seemed easier than the tube. Plus, if you have to a bead to add sealant, remove boogers, it could be difficult to impossible to get your tube back into place. That also is a theory and I don't know if it is in fact difficult to do this.

    So, I guess the ghetto-tube seems better but tape is much easier.
    Yes Mike the tube method does really suck , and when you have to put a tube in because you ripped your sidewall you are also screwed with a big mess you have to hump out with you .

    And the tube method can keep the tire bead from correctly seating against the rim and will burp easier , its just silly , and more weight .

    We have been running off road bikes, indoor supercrossbikes and outdoor bikes for over 10 years just like this with tape and it works great.

    There was a product called the "Bib Moose" which was a foam insert that you would try and pry into the tire and wheel ( its like levering your moto tire together with 15 psi already in it ) so it is a pain , then 15 years ago we tried the split tube method in the moto bikes and it would just rip it up rather quickly .

    So I just started using tape and all was well , and I used it on moto wheels and mountain bike wheels so I knew it worked way better and easier long before I brought it here

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    So I just started using tape and all was well , and I used it on moto wheels and mountain bike wheels so I knew it worked way better and easier long before I brought it here
    So you run tubeless on moto's? Interesting, what pressure can you get the rear down to without burping?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Wow ok. Glad I did'nt buy anything yet. You all have shown me the light and have saved me about $40. Thank you for your input.
    +1.

    Thanks to all of you for the info. I'm gonna need tires in another month or two...and I'll be giving this a try.

    One more question. This will work with regular tires, right? Any suggestions on what to use for tubeless in this area? I'm thinking durability over lightweight. And I'd rather not pay 80 bucks a pop for tubeless tires.

  27. #27
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    Conti trail kings UST 2.2 black chilli

  28. #28
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    Ok a few things on ghetto tubeless and I only interject because i have been around the ghetto.

    First you want to get some old tubes that maybe have too many patches as it is. Cut out the valve stems and leave a little rubber around each. Then tape up your rim. The wall to wall method will provide a tighter fit which means less chance of burping at lower pressures. Make a little slit in where the valve stem will go and shove it through. Using the valve stem lock nut tighten it on snugly.

    Put the tire on without any stans in it. Pull it towards the rim walls and holding it off the ground hit it with a blast from a compressor if you have one. A CO2 will work, or if you only have a pump you might need to hit the beads with some really soapy water. If the tire mounts up easily then you probably have the right amount of tape. Make sure the bead is set, spin it to make sure it spins round and when you remove the tire it should be hard to get off the bead seat.

    If it is really difficult to mount, you might need another wrap of tape. Once the rim seat is built up you should be able to mount them fairly easily.

    Once they are mounting to your liking then pop off a side of the tire, pour in your stans goop and reseat the bead. Follow stans mounting and sealing advice from their website from here.

    There is a lot of mojo with the ghetto tubeless tape method. You got to get it just right sometimes or it won't work well. You are almost always better off adding too much tape than too little. Electrical tape can be used on to of gorilla/duct tape to build up the rim seat in smaller increments.

    Carry a little bottle of the stans in your camelback/seat bag because it can be so reliable that your goop will dry out and you will start to lose air on the trail. Squirt in some goop, spin and add air and you should be good for awhile again. Check your goop every couple of months, more regularly in summer or if you leave your bike outside.

    Search here for more tips and techniques and homemade goop recipes etc.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockcrusher View Post
    Carry a little bottle of the stans in your camelback/seat bag because it can be so reliable that your goop will dry out and you will start to lose air on the trail. Squirt in some goop, spin and add air and you should be good for awhile again. Check your goop every couple of months, more regularly in summer or if you leave your bike outside.
    When adding more sealant on the trail, do you make a small break in the seal or do you have one of the stans pumps that you can pump it right in the presta valve ?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnio View Post
    When adding more sealent on the trail, do you make a small break in the seal or do you have one of the stans pumps that you can pump it right in the presta valve ?
    You know i just cut the tip so it is difficult to get over the presta stem, and just squeeze the bejeepers out of the bottle. It will go in some times in fits and starts sometimes smoothly but it will go in. Make sure to shake the bottle hard before hand, and make sure to take the seal off the bottle before going all angry bruce banner on it that also makes it much easier.

    I am all about cheap. electric tape, duct tape, old presta valves and macgyvers that even Macgyver himself would be proud of. Of course i have probably spent more in cheap ass fixes in progress toward a successful process than it would have cost me to do it right in the first place but my monetary loss can be your gain...or something.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockcrusher View Post
    I am all about cheap. electric tape, duct tape, old presta valves and macgyvers that even Macgyver himself would be proud of. Of course i have probably spent more in cheap ass fixes in progress toward a successful process than it would have cost me to do it right in the first place but my monetary loss can be your gain...or something.
    Now THAT's funny. Maybe because I'm right there with ya.
    And the info you've put out here...along with the others...is definately gonna be my gain.

    Thanks again........

    Dave

  32. #32
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    I use the 1" gorilla tape as mentioned above with stans sealant. I run kenda nevegals 2.3 front 2.1 back. I find the 1" tape fits perfect in my rims ( wtb laserdisc trails). Would never go back to tubes.

  33. #33
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    You really do not burp the good racing tires at all , those things seat on really hard , most all the guys will run 7 to 10 in the rear and 9 to 11 ft , just depending on tires ,( and its set by rim clean -----thats the width measurement of the cleaned off section of rim that the tire rolls over on ) we all do this with or without tubes .

    As long as the tires are fresh with only a moto or two you wont pinch a tube if you still run tubes, thats why most pros and most real teams will run tubeless and still change tires often.

    The off road guys will run 10-12 in the rear and 10-12 ft running tubeless.


    The carcass and sidewalls in my mountainbike tires are beat badly at the 7 to 8 week mark, If you do not change them you will beat the rim up badly and not have good hold and traction , this is what I see most guys do is they run their tires way to long and wonder why they miss climbs and beat their rims up and the bike does not handle the hack , speed and corning well .

    The 4 most important contact points on the bike -------your hands, feet , butt, and tires.
    You gota get those working for you flawlessly and consistently to really better your experience and skill !

  34. #34
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    Interesting, it makes sense. I wish I could afford new tires as often as needed. I only ride off-road on trials tires, and I like 5-6lbs in the rear. I am getting 2 seasons on a rear switching between 2 different bikes.

    I will pay great attention to how my mtb tires work as the weeks wear on. I got things working flawlessly on my moto, now I just need to make the mtb work just as well. (that may never happen!)

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    One more question. This will work with regular tires, right? Any suggestions on what to use for tubeless in this area? I'm thinking durability over lightweight. And I'd rather not pay 80 bucks a pop for tubeless tires.
    I have been running wire bead CST Caballero Tire I've gotten them for ~$12 each and they last 3 months which for me is not bad.

  36. #36
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    Follow up. See original post.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Follow up. See original post.
    Now all you need to do is get those brakes hooked up : )

  38. #38
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    Taken care of . You go back out there today?
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Taken care of . You go back out there today?
    Nah I'm thinking about south mountain later today. I'm sure I'd get lost and be cougar food.
    I need a few more times to learn my way around. K-Trail is awesome. Thanks again

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douger-1 View Post
    Follow up. See original post.
    Nice. Easier done that said, huh?

  41. #41
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    Yes it really was. It was so easy for me in fact, I told my buddy about it and we tried to do the conversion on his front wheel. Unfortunatly we never got it to work. He is running a Maxxis Ignitor 29 on the front and holy crap was that tire loose on the rim. No need for a tire lever at all. He has actually had issues with the tire popping off the bead when he inflates it with a tube in there. Almost seems the tire is a 1/4" out of spec. Guess the tire really plays a huge part in the success of the project.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did." Mark Twain

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  5. Stan, my man!
    By monkeyboy90 in forum Trek
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    Last Post: 03-18-2004, 09:03 PM

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