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  1. #1
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    Mechanics advice

    Breaking News: SRAM Announces Entry-Level 111 Drivetrain: The NX1 | Singletracks Mountain Bike News

    Seriously interested in this. My question, not knowing much about a lot of things mechanically-related, is will this work on my bike, a 2010 Specialized Pitch?

    It says it doesn't use a new XD driver for the cassette. No idea what that means but my bike is so cheap I'm positive I don't have an XD driver.

    Bottom Bracket? Can I just plug that set of cranks into my existing bottom bracket or will that need to be replaced as well?

    I can change a cassette and derailleur but I'll probably have a true wrencher install this because of the cranks. But I'd like to be prepared with all the costs. I don't want to get psyched for a 1x11 setup only to find out $310 has just turned into $500.

    Thanks,

    Mike

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    More than likely, this will fit well. You just need a regular free hub. Unless you have SRAM XX1, X01 or GX 11 speed, you do not have an xD free hub. You are running a regular old school 9/10 speed free hub. As for the bottom bracket, if you are running a SRAM GXP BB, then it will fit just fine as long as you buy the correct crank. SRAM is offering the crank in all of the current configurations. You'll probably get a new BB included with the crankset though.

    Basically, the full group is 310 bucks for the whole thing. You won't pay anymore than that. Even if you have to buy a new BB, that is about 50 bucks.

    If you are Shimano guy, XT 11 speed is close to the same cost. I spent 320 bucks for the XT 11-42 cassette, derailleur, shifter, and chain with some Zee 1 speed cranks. I added a 32 tooth NW chainring to bring the cost to around 350.
    Getting a dropper post is like getting a bidet. I didn't know I needed one until I get one and boy, does my ass thank me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    Breaking News: SRAM Announces Entry-Level 111 Drivetrain: The NX1 | Singletracks Mountain Bike News

    Seriously interested in this. My question, not knowing much about a lot of things mechanically-related, is will this work on my bike, a 2010 Specialized Pitch?

    It says it doesn't use a new XD driver for the cassette. No idea what that means but my bike is so cheap I'm positive I don't have an XD driver.

    Bottom Bracket? Can I just plug that set of cranks into my existing bottom bracket or will that need to be replaced as well?

    I can change a cassette and derailleur but I'll probably have a true wrencher install this because of the cranks. But I'd like to be prepared with all the costs. I don't want to get psyched for a 1x11 setup only to find out $310 has just turned into $500.

    Thanks,

    Mike

    Mike, do you need a new crankset? Or wanting a new one? If not then there is no need for a new crankset just to run the new NX1. All you would need is the cassette, rear der., shifter and a narrow wide chainring from the multiple companies out there.
    I suggest raceface. The rings alone only cost roughly around 45 bucks.

    Just remove rings currently on the crankset and install the NW in the middle ring slot and boom you're done with the front of the drivetrain.

    Swing by the shop and we can get you sorted brother.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

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    Here you go mike, just a good ole' raceface NW on a xt crankset. This is a 1x10, but the new NX will be the same spacing-ish
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mechanics advice-imag1770.jpg  

    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Mike, do you need a new crankset? Or wanting a new one?
    No, don't need one. I thought all the 1x setups required their own cranks. I don't know squat about the parts & mechanics involved...

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    If not then there is no need for a new crankset just to run the new NX1. All you would need is the cassette, rear der., shifter and a narrow wide chainring from the multiple companies out there. I suggest raceface. The rings alone only cost roughly around 45 bucks.

    Just remove rings currently on the crankset and install the NW in the middle ring slot and boom you're done with the front of the drivetrain.
    That actually sounds even better 'cause I could keep my bash ring. One worry is beating the hell out of my chainring since they don't often come with a bash guard. I'd still need some kind of chain keeper on the top of the ring, no?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    I'd still need some kind of chain keeper on the top of the ring, no?
    nah, I've been running a NW for almost 3 years now and have only dropped a chain 3 times. And it was in the most super gnarliest part of a trail and also the fact I ran off the trail hahaha.

    But there is a bunch of guide systems that just has a lower taco bash that runs off the icg tabs. Which has the option for top or bottom or even both guides to go with them. I'm personally looking at the new MRP guide that just came out for the 1x setup. Comes with a bash and a top guide. Which is all you need anyways.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  7. #7
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    Mike,

    One thing to consider if you are going to be using your old crankset is the chain line. I tried to convert an old 2x crank to a one speed but I couldn't get the chain line far enough inboard. Every time I backpedaled, the chain would drop from the 42 tooth to the 38 tooth. That's why I switched to a dedicated 1x crank.
    Getting a dropper post is like getting a bidet. I didn't know I needed one until I get one and boy, does my ass thank me.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    nah, I've been running a NW for almost 3 years now and have only dropped a chain 3 times. And it was in the most super gnarliest part of a trail and also the fact I ran off the trail hahaha.

    But there is a bunch of guide systems that just has a lower taco bash that runs off the icg tabs. Which has the option for top or bottom or even both guides to go with them. I'm personally looking at the new MRP guide that just came out for the 1x setup. Comes with a bash and a top guide. Which is all you need anyways.
    I just put the MRP on my new rig. Pretty sweet. E13 makes a good one too.

    Mechanics advice-mrp-chain-guide.jpg

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    Mike: Call me and I'll walk you through it.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PrincipalRider View Post
    Mike,

    One thing to consider if you are going to be using your old crankset is the chain line. I tried to convert an old 2x crank to a one speed but I couldn't get the chain line far enough inboard. Every time I backpedaled, the chain would drop from the 42 tooth to the 38 tooth. That's why I switched to a dedicated 1x crank.

    There won't be much of a problem if he's running the NX 11spd cassette. That'll be like you're still running a 1x10 which you can get away with an old triple ring crankset. The max spacing will be the same as a 10spd just the spacing and between gears have thinned down which is why they are running a bit of a different gear spread compared to the x1 stuff.


    But you are correct if he was to run the cassette that would require the XD drive then yes you would more than likely need to go to a dedicated x1 crankset. But I've have put on a lot of xt 2x crank on with a x1 cassette with no chainline issues.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  11. #11
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    Something wrong with what you have?

    Last 3x9 middle ring cost me $20

    That 1x11 chain line thing might not be an issue when everything's new and well adjusted, when it's all beat to shit, I bet the 3x9 continues to work ok while that stuff become a huge pain in the ass. The only compelling reason for me to use 1x10 was the clutch rear derailleurs, but that idea went out the window when I learned they can play in 9 spd just fine.
    Nice KOM, sorry about your penis.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    Something wrong with what you have?

    Last 3x9 middle ring cost me $20

    That 1x11 chain line thing might not be an issue when everything's new and well adjusted, when it's all beat to shit, I bet the 3x9 continues to work ok while that stuff become a huge pain in the ass. The only compelling reason for me to use 1x10 was the clutch rear derailleurs, but that idea went out the window when I learned they can play in 9 spd just fine.
    Afraid you can't dial up granny if you switch to 1x11?

    As for the difference in wear, with 3x9 or 2x10 it's the chain and with 1x11 it's the W/N chainring. Pretty much break even in terms of cost. I'll never be going back. 1x11 is the shizzle.

  13. #13
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    My next upgrade for the pivot is the 1x11...love the simplicity

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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Afraid you can't dial up granny if you switch to 1x11?

    As for the difference in wear, with 3x9 or 2x10 it's the chain and with 1x11 it's the W/N chainring. Pretty much break even in terms of cost. I'll never be going back. 1x11 is the shizzle.
    This is why we can't communicate. I'm referring to a somewhat bent derailleur cage/linkage, cogs slightly folded here and there, while shit just continues to work; stuff that happens from riding hard.
    Nice KOM, sorry about your penis.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Afraid you can't dial up granny if you switch to 1x11?

    As for the difference in wear, with 3x9 or 2x10 it's the chain and with 1x11 it's the W/N chainring. Pretty much break even in terms of cost. I'll never be going back. 1x11 is the shizzle.
    Will a medium cage derailleur work on a 1x11 (11-42) running a 40 or 42 up front.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    This is why we can't communicate. I'm referring to a somewhat bent derailleur cage/linkage, cogs slightly folded here and there, while shit just continues to work; stuff that happens from riding hard.
    Since you don't have 1x11 I don't see how you can come to any conclusions regarding wear and function. The cogs on the SRAM cassette are steel. I wouldn't worry yourself to a tizzy over bent cogs. As for derailleurs, ideally your hanger will bend before your derailleur breaks.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Since you don't have 1x11 I don't see how you can come to any conclusions regarding wear and function. The cogs on the SRAM cassette are steel. I wouldn't worry yourself to a tizzy over bent cogs. As for derailleurs, ideally your hanger will bend before your derailleur breaks.
    The rocks we have, that you don't, must be hitting my bike the wrong way, or something happening not ideally. I have experience with 11 spd and therefore won't own it. All these years I thought my cassettes were aluminum, now I want a refund. You are the keeper of a garage queen.
    Nice KOM, sorry about your penis.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    The rocks we have, that you don't, must be hitting my bike the wrong way, or something happening not ideally. I have experience with 11 spd and therefore won't own it. All these years I thought my cassettes were aluminum, now I want a refund. You are the keeper of a garage queen.
    Ha ha, like you've got the market cornered on rocks. And what difference does it make? A bent derailleur will work poorly on all setups.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maadjurguer View Post
    My next upgrade for the pivot is the 1x11...love the simplicity
    Exactly this. Two of my mtb are 1x11. Simple and clean.
    Bob
    "Some people follow their dreams, others hunt them down and beat them mercilessly into submission." - Neil Kendall

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    You are the keeper of a garage queen.
    Having my home office look out on Rockman's daily route, and my personal observation of him on said route...well, I cry shennigans.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Since you don't have 1x11 I don't see how you can come to any conclusions regarding wear and function. The cogs on the SRAM cassette are steel. I wouldn't worry yourself to a tizzy over bent cogs. As for derailleurs, ideally your hanger will bend before your derailleur breaks.
    In the nearly six years I've been beating up on my Pitch I've replaced derailleurs and hangers at at least 2:1 ratio. Hangers will bend but my experience is that the derailleurs are far more fragile than the hanger. The hangers are supposed to save your frame, not your derailleur.

    I've only actually BROKEN a hanger once. The rest have all bent slowly after repeated beatings and I'll replace a couple derailleurs before the hanger is toast.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    In the nearly six years I've been beating up on my Pitch I've replaced derailleurs and hangers at at least 2:1 ratio. Hangers will bend but my experience is that the derailleurs are far more fragile than the hanger. The hangers are supposed to save your frame, not your derailleur.

    I've only actually BROKEN a hanger once. The rest have all bent slowly after repeated beatings and I'll replace a couple derailleurs before the hanger is toast.
    Well, I defer to your ability to break things. Personally, I think I've replaced 50 hangers to every derailleur I've broken in 30 years of mtn biking, the last being a SRAM X0 in Steamboat Springs in 2011. I ended up converting to singlespeed to finish the ride.

    Mechanics advice-broken-derailleur.jpg

    You did mention that your bike is cheap and by inference I presume the parts you are running. The top of the line Shimano and Sram derailleurs are much stronger that typical derailleur hangers and I stand by the statement that the hanger is meant to bend before a derailleur breaks. It has nothing to do with the frame.

  23. #23
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    I meant the whole bike was inexpensive when I got it. $1600 IIRC for the "Poor Man's Enduro" Pitch back in 2010.

    My derailleurs were all X9 for the first year or so. Then I realized that X7 was less expensive and broke just as easily. No reason to suspect that the higher price stuff would fare any better. Especially since it's lighter.

    I had to google it and Wikipedia says the hanger is to avoid damage to the frame and derailleur. But, I'd guarantee you that if you put a brand new hanger and derailleur on a bike and start bending and beating the cage like the abuse it would normally take the cage is gonna bend long before the hanger. It has to. The cage arms are thin metal and the hanger is 1/8" or 3/16" thick.

    But, I know not everyone rides like me. I'd be interested to know what you are doing that breaks your hanger before the derailleur. In order for the hanger to take damage the derailleur has to be contacted in some form. The one time I actually broke a hanger was a drop on National where I went over too close to another rock on the side and my derailleur and hanger took the full weight of my bike on it. Derailleur bent beyond repair and hanger snapped in half.

    Oh well... Doesn't really matter.

    But, I should admit that I'll use my derailleur bender tool to straighten it out once in a while... Forgot about that. I guess I assume that everyone bends one back once in a while so maybe that counts as a "break?"

    EDIT: I should add that I've NEVER replaced a hanger without replacing the derailleur while I have replaced many derailleurs without replacing the hanger.

  24. #24
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    Bro

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by big0mike View Post
    But, I know not everyone rides like me. I'd be interested to know what you are doing that breaks your hanger before the derailleur. In order for the hanger to take damage the derailleur has to be contacted in some form.
    That's quite the treatise so I'll shorten for ya. I would argue that since most hangers are also integrated with the rear dropouts or more recently the thru-axle, the frame is even more protected than ever. But to tell you the truth, I haven't broken many hangers either. I bend them back and replace them once they crack. I always carry a spare.

    Back to your original programming or are you just killing time on mtbr? Are you or are you not converting to 1x11 which is what started this whole affair. Is the fact that you break derailleurs a factor in your decision?

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    If your current crank set is a triple, installing the N/W ring in the middle position will help with the inboard chain line issues some have with a 2x crankset.

    I also highly recommend using a wolftooth N/W chainring. Yes, they are more expensive, but I have found they last MUCH longer than the cheap raceface stuff. They are also offset 2mm inboard. This small bit of inboard adjustment really makes a difference with proper chain line, IMHE.

    I have set up many people with converted 1x's and have yet to have any of the chainline/back pedal issues listed above when using triple cranksets and wolftooth chainrings.

    Don't get over whelmed with all the techno mumbo jumbo BS and have someone like Blatant or the bike shop walk you through it and it will be painless and you will love the results.

  27. #27
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    The 1Up or Wolftooth 42t cogs work pretty good for 1x10 if you don't want to switch to an XD driver and 11 sp shifter. E.13 makes one now as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Back to your original programming or are you just killing time on mtbr? Are you or are you not converting to 1x11 which is what started this whole affair. Is the fact that you break derailleurs a factor in your decision?
    The fact that I break derailleurs more often than most is a factor in why I HAVE NOT upgraded to 1x11. Too expensive. Even 1x10 was more expensive than my 2x9 setup and it's derailleurs.

    But, since the price is coming down pretty well I'm contemplating it. ~$300 is a tolerable upgrade for what little I'll see in return. With the heavier weight of the cheap components I likely won't see any weight loss by losing a lever and front derailleur. Of course, since what I have on here is cheap, and certainly heavy as well, maybe I will...

    I've figured that with my new job towards the end of this year I'll be able to afford something really nice so I'm just looking at small things to upgrade on this bike.

  29. #29
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    If you have a clutch style derailleur then you don't need to spend much money to go 1x10. You can get a wide/narrow chainring for cheap and if you want a bigger range get the 42t cog from Wolftooth or 1Up.

    Not sure what you mean by "what little I will see in return" but you can at least then have an educated opinion as to whether you like not having to think about a front shifter. And it will drop some weight. The other bonus is you can set up a seat dropper post as your left shifter.

    But sounds like you've come full circle and already talked yourself out of it anyway. Good luck to you.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    If you have a clutch style derailleur then you don't need to spend much money to go 1x10. You can get a wide/narrow chainring for cheap and if you want a bigger range get the 42t cog from Wolftooth or 1Up.
    No clutch derailleur. They've always been too expensive. Going 1x10 is another option I'd been thinking about as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Not sure what you mean by "what little I will see in return" but you can at least then have an educated opinion as to whether you like not having to think about a front shifter. And it will drop some weight. The other bonus is you can set up a seat dropper post as your left shifter.
    What I mean is it won't make life any easier. I keep my chain in the 24t ring and only go to the 36t when on a continuous downhill run. It's rare when I actually use it.

    I wasn't thinking I'd lose a ton of weight but after thinking about it and the heavy components I have on my bike already I certainly will see some. Likely won't be more than a pound but for a 36# bike everything helps.

    I've always have my dropper post on the left side. That's one benefit of the KS posts since they replace your inner grip clamp.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    But sounds like you've come full circle and already talked yourself out of it anyway. Good luck to you.
    Nah, haven't talked myself outta it. Just thinking out loud and bouncing ideas off others.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    If you have a clutch style derailleur then you don't need to spend much money to go 1x10. You can get a wide/narrow chainring for cheap and if you want a bigger range get the 42t cog from Wolftooth or 1Up.

    Not sure what you mean by "what little I will see in return" but you can at least then have an educated opinion as to whether you like not having to think about a front shifter. And it will drop some weight. The other bonus is you can set up a seat dropper post as your left shifter.

    But sounds like you've come full circle and already talked yourself out of it anyway. Good luck to you.
    I win, again, as usual.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    I win, again, as usual.
    A hollow victory at best

  33. #33
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    Is a 'standard driver body' as stated in the article the same as a regular 9/10 speed driver body? Most, if not all, 11 speed setups up until this latest version required a driver body specific to 11 speed correct?

    Mike. FWIW I converted to a 1x10 setup @ a year ago and I would never go back to a 2x set up. I've NEVER dropped a chain (just jinxed myself) which is almost unbelievable to me. Only time I recall was when I got hung up in some brush after I got a little crazy. Also, I was really initially concerned about the lack of a bash on my 1x10 set up but I can't say I've needed it. I used to hit my bash guard on my 2x setup somewhat regularly but for some reason I don't anymore with the 1x. Used to hit the bash almost everytime taking the high line down the bermuda triangle with the 2x but don't anymore. I'd like to think it's because I'm a better rider now but we both know that's far from the truth.

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