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Thread: going 1x9

  1. #1
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    going 1x9

    So I just put the parts on order at the LBS and when they come in I will be installing them, I am also using this time put a new chain on ( the one I have now has seen to many hard shifts). With only having one ring up front now I thought I read some where that you can shorten your chain. If this is in fact true does anyone know of a guide or some other means to determine the length required.
    Looking forward to this upgrade, hope the parts come soon.
    Fate favors the prepared.

  2. #2
    sixsixtysix
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    Here's how you figure out the chain length.

    Front Ring + Back Large Cog + 2 links


  3. #3
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    Ok, so your picture says "bypassing the rear derailer" will the chain still fit if I put it back in the derailer? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
    Fate favors the prepared.

  4. #4
    sixsixtysix
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    Yes.

  5. #5
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    Thankyou.
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  6. #6
    Kathleen in AZ
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    I would add +4 links instead of +2 for a 1X9. The above diagram is for a 2x9 or 3x9 situation and assumes that you will never run big-big or small-small. You will in fact be running big-big all the time on a 1x9, so I suggest that you give er a little more slack to start off. If it's too much, you can always take out a link.

  7. #7
    sixsixtysix
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    Quote Originally Posted by DurtGurl
    I would add +4 links instead of +2 for a 1X9. The above diagram is for a 2x9 or 3x9 situation and assumes that you will never run big-big or small-small. You will in fact be running big-big all the time on a 1x9, so I suggest that you give er a little more slack to start off. If it's too much, you can always take out a link.

    +2 works just fine with a 34x11-34 and a medium cage derailleur, if your going 36x11-34 or 11-36 then yes, I would go +4.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixsixtysix
    +2 works just fine with a 34x11-34 and a medium cage derailleur, if your going 36x11-34 or 11-36 then yes, I would go +4.
    Same here, +2 with 32t and 11-34 with med. cage D, works great.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DurtGurl
    I would add +4 links instead of +2 for a 1X9. The above diagram is for a 2x9 or 3x9 situation and assumes that you will never run big-big or small-small. You will in fact be running big-big all the time on a 1x9, so I suggest that you give er a little more slack to start off. If it's too much, you can always take out a link.
    if you're running 1 x 9 with the middle ring equivalent as your 1, you are never running big-big in the classical 3 ring sense. just because it's the biggest ring you have doesn't mean it's the 'big' ring as most people think of it.

    i'm running 32t - 11-34 - short cage - +2 - no issues here.

  10. #10
    Kathleen in AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by 'size
    if you're running 1 x 9 with the middle ring equivalent as your 1, you are never running big-big in the classical 3 ring sense. just because it's the biggest ring you have doesn't mean it's the 'big' ring as most people think of it.

    i'm running 32t - 11-34 - short cage - +2 - no issues here.
    Sounds good to me. I withdraw my +4 suggestion

  11. #11
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    This made my head hurt a bit
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  12. #12
    I think I need to Upgrade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbot3x
    So I just put the parts on order at the LBS and when they come in I will be installing them, I am also using this time put a new chain on ( the one I have now has seen to many hard shifts). With only having one ring up front now I thought I read some where that you can shorten your chain. If this is in fact true does anyone know of a guide or some other means to determine the length required.
    Looking forward to this upgrade, hope the parts come soon.

    Important question!!!


    What kind of frame are you going to be riding with this set up?

  13. #13
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    Thanks for all the feed back. I'm unsure of the derailer size, its a SRAM x7. My next upgrade will be a new derailer, when funds permit. Also I ride a Specialized Pitch comp. I'm typing this on my blackberry so I cannot link the chainguide/bashgaurd I am buying but its a white ethirteen I believe, also I plan on running a 32t (which I have yet to purchase, anyone got one for cheap?)
    Fate favors the prepared.

  14. #14
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    For a Full Suspension with a 1x9 Chain Guide, using the chart above, I would add 3-4 links total...meaning a link or two over the initial 2 links. Really depends on how your chain lines up, especially when using a SRAM with the master link. Oh and be sure your chain guide is installed before measuring your chain, any extra links need for the guide will be accounted for this way.
    Last edited by Trail-Shredder; 05-18-2010 at 08:35 AM.

  15. #15
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    I know I haven't posted to this thread before, but I appreciate all of your inputs as well. I'm just getting into trials and 1x9 was recommended to me to maintain some sort of versatility. This will help me when I finally do tackle that aspect...

  16. #16
    I think I need to Upgrade
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    I would reccomend going with +4 links, you can always go shorter but it isn't always a good idea to add links to a chain because every time you press in a pin it isn't as strong as the factory pin was. With +4 links in theory you shouldn't have any trouble when you add the chain guide and account for chain line growth as the suspension cycles. If it were my bike I wouldn't cut the chain (unless I had to) untill all the parts were on the bike that were going to be used with the final setup.

  17. #17
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    Thank you all for the great tips on the chain, they helped a lot. However I am now with out a bike for a couple weeks do to the chain guide being the improper type. I guess there are two types of ISCG tabs... the whole purpose I went to a LBS and spent a little more money was to avoid this but this is normal for me I guess. I will post up again when its complete and include a pic.
    Fate favors the prepared.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbot3x
    the whole purpose I went to a LBS and spent a little more money was to avoid this
    The sooner you correct this line of thinking, the better.
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