XPE Helmet light- Mtbr.com
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 200 of 524
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! XPE Helmet light

    I have had these Q5 XPE for a couple of weeks now and have been wondering what to do with them . I did think about using 4 with a dual MCE light .

    Then rummaging around in the warehouse of the place I work I came across this aluminium curtain rail thingy so borrowed an off cut for research .

    Znomit did a build using a similar extrusion

    After attacking it with a measure and looking at the spec for the carclo 10 mm square optics . it was made for this build I think.

    now which build is going to be the best











    It has come to the point when it is the driver that takes up most space so thinking the maxflex can go live in with the battery
    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 01-08-2009 at 10:36 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    134
    Second one i think,a bit more usable area to heatsink perhaps?
    Also you might be able to lense it like a seca or have a high/low setup without it looking uneven.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NEstinkyrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    189
    My nod goes the horizontal configuration, especially after seeing that side angle shot with the helmet. Very low-profile, looks great.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    Looks very clean and nice, but I too am pretty sure you need more cooling. Remember it will have to dissipate about 15W it you are driving them at 600mA. I was surprised how hot the XP-E got even when properly heatsinked. I had it on a 450g copper heatsink and still it would get burning hot when you pressed your finger on top of it.

  5. #5
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by gillestugan
    Looks very clean and nice, but I too am pretty sure you need more cooling.
    +1

    I am sure you already have some ideas but a slug between the two halves of the curtain rail and some old computer heat sinks on the ends might be feasible.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    It is still in the thinking stages and I like the low profile look
    what it needs is an aluminium peak on the helmet ..

    yep @ 500ma it warms up pretty quick

    will have to wait and see what the optics are like when they arrive before the final light is decided

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    109
    I'm also considering building a bigger version of the Pipe Light using the next size up pipe fiitting to be able to put 9 XPE's driven 3 parallel in series fed by a maxflex.
    My problem is there are no dimensional drawings on the Cutter website of the 10mm MCPCB to tell me if the indentations on the pcb are made for the Carclo 10412 etc lenses to fit over or do the legs of the lens fit into the two holes of the pcb.
    Can anyone confirm or post the correct dimensions please.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    753
    I cant wait to see this build! 8 of them you really are mad! I was thinking of using 3 and doing a 1/2 scale achesalot build. I am sure you will post some sort of beam shot since you always do. I hope the 10mm squares are nice. Any plans to try any of the other xp-e optics? The khatod .5" x 1.5" strip looks like it could be trimmed down to 10mm.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: znomit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,953

    With a few well placed cuts you could bend it to match the curve of the helmet.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by formantjim
    My problem is there are no dimensional drawings on the Cutter website of the 10mm MCPCB to tell me if the indentations on the pcb are made for the Carclo 10412 etc lenses to fit over or do the legs of the lens fit into the two holes of the pcb.
    Can anyone confirm or post the correct dimensions please.
    Looking at the data sheet for the 10412 optic the legs just sit around the 10 mm board .
    I cant see them going into any of the indents as there are only 2 opposing each other.


    Bikerjay.
    You are indeed correct in your analysis

    The final build will depend on what the beam looks like from these wee beasties
    I have ordered the 10417 I did not notice the 10412 had a better efficiency

    Beam shots will be posted when they are here
    No plans yet to try any other optics


    Znomit

    Nice idea but could look a bit messy
    but it may be 2 * 3 XPE fitted to the helmet peak

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    This is really interesting....those things look tiny!! Should be interesting to see what you can come up with Chris

    I reckon I could modify my housing to get, maybe, 6 of those in...without too much trouble. How could they be driven??

  12. #12
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    what it needs is an aluminium peak on the helmet ..
    Or and aluminium helmet!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    This is really interesting....those things look tiny!! Should be interesting to see what you can come up with Chris

    I reckon I could modify my housing to get, maybe, 6 of those in...without too much trouble. How could they be driven??
    I am very undecided at the moment Steve..

    hell only 6 in your housing
    I just had a look and 14 would squeeze in
    but 12 would be realistic and a maxflex or hipflex to power them



    Oh that is the shotblasted and anodised one


    Or you could go 9 xpe and the 20 mm triples Now that could be something Else .
    A bit less heat than 3 mce and maybe a better beam

  14. #14
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Or you could go 9 xpe and the 20 mm triples Now that could be something Else .
    A bit less heat than 3 mce and maybe a better beam
    But isn't the best angle for the 20mm triple a half angle of 18 degrees, ie total angle of 36 degrees? That makes it more of a flood. No joy with sourceing small quantities of the Polymer Optics range?

    On another note Chris, I took the beast out on Wednesday night for the first ride. 38 showed up for a social ride but we were back at the pub before it was truely dark so didn't get to use it. Video this week I promise

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Chris,
    Holy cow...14?? Really?? That would be good! I like the sound of the 3 triples with the 20 mm optic...I think I'll do a bit of research...they could well fit straight into the housing.
    Steve

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Optics arrived today

    Here you go Steve 14 fit easy




    Boy are the tiny devils it is going to be like brain surgery this build.



    not dark yet

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    The Compulsery ceiling shots

    I have cobbled a test rig up for some beamshots .

    have I mentioned they are darn tiny things .

    one single XPE and Carclo 10417 narrow beam very small thing
    the tapes are 1 mtre long and 2.2 metres from the microscopic light



    and this is 4 of the little beggers ,



    when it gets proper dark I will wander out and get a shot on my test trail with these
    nano lights

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    134
    Nutter!
    Thats more like it!
    Perfect light my arse!
    Tommo.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Bloody Hell....That would be some kinda light!!

    Are you going to have a go at doing all 14?? I reckon you should But the wiring might be interesting

    I think there are going to be some VERY small lights coming out of the TroutShed soon..

    Keep up the good work Chris

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Bloody Hell....That would be some kinda light!!

    Are you going to have a go at doing all 14?? I reckon you should But the wiring might be interesting

    I think there are going to be some VERY small lights coming out of the TroutShed soon..

    Keep up the good work Chris

    I have only got 8 XPE s so need to maximise what I do with them at the moment I have so many ideas I would need 100 to play with.

    ref the small lights I just wish you lived nearer I would like to get together and design something really radical I think these are to small for my manual lathing skills and crap mini mill.

    these things are small enough to put on your glasses never mind helmet.

    There is more wow factor from these than the MCE and 4 XPE with these 10 mm optics are IMHO better than 1 mce and boom reflector .

    ok on to the rather rushed beam shots I struggled a bit because the optics were not fixed and just sat on the leds.

    I tried to cover 2 leds up here so this is 2 up



    this was a bit easier to do the 4 up



    I have to say these shots do not do the these justice and I am very impressed with the performance for such a tiny package.
    there is no wasted light out the sides it all goes into the beam

    I think if you put 4 or 6 lined up on a helmet peak as tiny seperates you could taylor the perfect helmet light

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    The hotspot looks very similar to the boom SS in the wall beamshot. But then there is much less spill.

    Ooo, I want, I want, I want! They look so good when placed in a row like you have done. And the optics are also very shallow, so you will have much more room behind them for drivers and stuff. (if placed in a housing)

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by gillestugan
    The hotspot looks very similar to the boom SS in the wall beamshot. But then there is much less spill.

    Ooo, I want, I want, I want! They look so good when placed in a row like you have done. And the optics are also very shallow, so you will have much more room behind them for drivers and stuff. (if placed in a housing)

    As you may have gathered I am very excited by these and will have to endure a few hours in my freezing garage to come up with a housing .

    These are the Q5 s so the R2 will be a bit brighter but as you see with only 4 they throw to the trees at the back which are 75 mtrs away where the single boom struggles to get half that distance .

    Watch this space there is something really cool on the drawing board but will need Deesta`s CNC to do it justice , if he is willing and able to help

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,124
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    As you may have gathered I am very excited by these and will have to endure a few hours in my freezing garage to come up with a housing .

    These are the Q5 s so the R2 will be a bit brighter but as you see with only 4 they throw to the trees at the back which are 75 mtrs away where the single boom struggles to get half that distance .

    Watch this space there is something really cool on the drawing board but will need Deesta`s CNC to do it justice , if he is willing and able to help
    75 Meters of throw! ( 246ft.) Duh....I'm speechless. A six or eight setup could make a nice compact helmet light. Can't wait to see what the commercial bike light builders will do with these.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    753
    WOW

    I have to put the electronics with a remote switch now. There will not be any room for the electronics even in a well cooled light.

    Now I am really wondering, will a 5up 35mm be any good, it could easily be retrofitted to every ones 35mm cutter kits.

    Even the amoeba will soon see portly. Also this has got me wondering about the 20mm round triple, could make for some great dinotte style lights.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Willing...yes!! Able....depends on what it is

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    Bloody freezing in my garage

    I have just spent the last 4 hours wrapped up in my garage chewing a helmet light from a lump of ali.

    It was going to be kept secret untill finished but I am so excited about these little babies I had to share it .

    I will put up a few piccys

    I have gone for 6 XPEs as it makes a nice compact light and is ideal for the Maxflex to power from my 14.8 v batteries and I can run them at full chat if required







    I have tried to make it from one piece so the whole housing is the heat sink .
    and there is 10 mm of solid ali behind the leds which I will leave for now but will if needed cut cooling slots if it runs hot . the Maxflex has its own heat sink built in so it will monitor the leds too .

    then how to mount it to a helmet the thing was to keep it low profile and most mounting brackets add height .

    so I built in some rails and slots for a 25mm wide velcro strap the rails hold it just off the helmet so air can flow under
    the total height on the helmet is 25 mm so pretty low profile. not bad for a 1000 lumen helmet light

    It also has a M5 threaded hole in the bottom so a bar mount can be fitted







    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 01-11-2009 at 12:19 AM.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bumphumper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    136
    I wish that I had more time to tinker with aluminium. Had seven rebels and polymer optics just waiting for a housing for about a month now! Children and expensive wife usually get time/money first...

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Willing...yes!! Able....depends on what it is

    This is where you come in Steve I get this one working and post it to you (Not to keep ) and between us we make it better and you then make some for all the folk who find they want to build one on here and else where .

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by bumphumper
    I wish that I had more time to tinker with aluminium. Had seven rebels and polymer optics just waiting for a housing for about a month now! Children and expensive wife usually get time/money first...

    been there , kids now grown up and wife is glad to get me out of the way

  30. #30
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Yet again Troutie, that is amazing.

    But where are the beam shots for this little beast?

    Ok, for a serious question, have you measured the vf or the XP-E? I am wondering if it is lower than claimed on the Cree data sheets in a similar way that the MC-E was / is

  31. #31
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Well done trout. It will be very interesting to see the beam out of this one.

    Those square optics make for a really clean looking profile.

    The one piece design looks like it should do a nice job with the heat.

  32. #32
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Is anyone worried about heat with these multi xp-e builds? Won't 6 of these in a case the size of a AA battery get pretty damn hot? there's not much surface area there.

    Love the idea of a tiny DIY light that blows away the big expensive commercial stuff, but not if my helmet is dripping flaming polystyrene on my head

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  33. #33
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    Is anyone worried about heat with these multi xp-e builds? Won't 6 of these in a case the size of a AA battery get pretty damn hot? there's not much surface area there.

    Love the idea of a tiny DIY light that blows away the big expensive commercial stuff, but not if my helmet is dripping flaming polystyrene on my head

    JZ
    I am waiting to see how trouts design goes. I have a feeling that it will be fine while ever he is moving but it will probably trip if he slows up at all. Keep pedaling trout!

  34. #34
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    There's a "heat dissipation" thread going, and they're talking about a rule-of-thumb of either 1sq" or 3sq" of surface area per watt. Seems like this is way under that....any plans to cut grooves or fins into the case Mr. Trout? (trout fins? :-)

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  35. #35
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26

    Ok, for a serious question, have you measured the vf or the XP-E? I am wondering if it is lower than claimed on the Cree data sheets in a similar way that the MC-E was / is
    Look here at post 20 and 24

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hootsmon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    762
    Love your work Troutie!
    Brisbane, AU

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    This is where you come in Steve I get this one working and post it to you (Not to keep ) and between us we make it better and you then make some for all the folk who find they want to build one on here and else where..

    Sounds good to me Chris...looks like it could be an amazing little package!!!

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Yet again Troutie, that is amazing.

    But where are the beam shots for this little beast?

    Ok, for a serious question, have you measured the vf or the XP-E? I am wondering if it is lower than claimed on the Cree data sheets in a similar way that the MC-E was / is


    Cheers Stu

    Beam shots coming soon
    Salty has beaton me to it where the vfs are

    for this light with the 6 xpe @ 750ma 18.22v hi / lo 16.61v
    @ 500ma 18.16v 16.57v
    @ 350ma 17.8 v 16.49v
    -------------------------------------------

    JimZinVT
    I am not worried because this light is for me and the maxflex will be well heatsunk to the housing as it has its own little pillar machined in the housing . so it will be monitering temps.
    also keeping things cool here in the uk is not a problem our night time ambients in summer never top 14c much .

    I have areas I can add heatsinking fins too and also fin the solid sink behind the leds
    and the lid hasn not been made so may do some fins there also .

    I did think about just 4 XPE but there are enough quads around and 6 in series hit the maxflex sweet spot for a 14.8 li ion perfectly ..

    It also has a M5 threaded hole in the bottom for attachment of a bar mount to keep it versatile , and it Troutie style an aluminium one then makes the bars a superb heat sink as a few previous lights have proved.



    I have read the heat dissi thingy thread and am the suck it and see type of guy
    I understand heat and heatsinking but all that goes way over my head.

    I have seen this working and doubt it will see full power except on the downhills.
    ------------------------------

    Ta Hoots


    -----------------------------------

    Cheers Steve I am hoping between us we can do a housing from this that ticks all the boxes

    crazy bright with good beam
    good heat disipation
    light weight
    low profile
    good looking
    easy to build up
    and easy for you to CNC with only 2 parts

    Troutie off to do some beam shots now
    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 01-11-2009 at 12:20 AM.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    ... and if we just ... BEAMSHOTS and I like them

    after my Sunday morning lie in till 06.30 it was up and out into minus 3c and gales to take some shots in the woods before daylight.
    it was nearly full moon so not too dark.
    these piccys taken at the MTBR standard settings


    woods in moonlight


    Edited due to driver error and unknown MA rating for these beam shots


    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 01-11-2009 at 09:07 AM.

  40. #40
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    There really doesn't appear to be too much difference between the levels judging from the pics (I opened the thread in 3 tabs so i could flick between the different pics to compare them). That will make for fantastic long run times as low beam looks like it will do a stella job.

    Big kudos for braving the weather to take the pics btw. Much appreciated Mr Trout!

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    There really doesn't appear to be too much difference between the levels judging from the pics (I opened the thread in 3 tabs so i could flick between the different pics to compare them). That will make for fantastic long run times as low beam looks like it will do a stella job.

    Big kudos for braving the weather to take the pics btw. Much appreciated Mr Trout!


    I did wonder about that too Salty
    I wonder if my Nflex was not getting enough volts from the makita 18 v pack
    we will see when the maxflex gets fitted. but still pretty impressive at low current

  42. #42
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I did wonder about that too Salty
    I wonder if my Nflex was not getting enough volts from the makita 18 v pack
    we will see when the maxflex gets fitted. but still pretty impressive at low current
    That might explain it. If it proves to be the case, then high beam may turn out to be devastating

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    Bonking ... not feelin' well It has gained a bit of weight

    A bit more messing around in the garage and the light has gained a bit of weight
    and better heat sinking I hope .

    I made a lid and incorperated some fins and extended it over the leds to help transfer some heat away .

    and then I had the little step underneath and I had a memory chip heatsink in the things I wont chuck away it may come in Box.

    so with a bit of sanding on the belt sander we are making progress but we are up to 99 gms and still have to add a switch and power socket




  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hootsmon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    762
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    A bit more messing around in the garage and the light has gained a bit of weight and better heat sinking I hope .

    I made a lid and incorporated some fins and extended it over the leds to help transfer some heat away ....
    I like those little Torx fasteners. Have you been cannibalizing hard-disk drives again?
    Brisbane, AU

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Looking good Mr T...

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    I take it you used 6 of the Tight Narrow optics as this is mainly a helmet light? Looking at the Cutter site I see they have a Plain medium listed with the same half angle! That confuses me because I was thinking of a build with 4 spots and a couple of mediums to provide some flood. Anyone know if the Cutter info is erroneous? I don't really want to send off and get optics that are no use.

    [Edit]
    Found the Carclo data sheet and there is little or no difference between the Tight and the Plain Medium - in fact Carclo call them both Medium.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    33
    It is looking really good
    I think you would be really scarry with a 5 axed lathe.
    It is always exciting to follow your projects. How do you drill your inside corners away at the end of the lens section?

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by hootsmon
    I like those little Torx fasteners. Have you been cannibalizing hard-disk drives again?
    No Hoots they are just M3 button head hex in stainless
    and the back are M2




    and now a horror pic , I am glad it happened underneath on top would have been a disaster
    first a 1.6mm drill bit broke , no worries I have another, great hole no 2 fine then the bloody m2 tap broke in the next , and then on the other side I did not tap the first hole deap enough and the bolt stuck and rounded the hex off It was time for a cup of tea and quiet reflection.





    More10
    I hope this answers your question I just drilled a 3 mm hole past the corner
    and there is a lens cover to go in yet.so just left those round


  49. #49
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    It's refreshing to see you are human after all.

    As for the front pic, did the cold effect your ability to silicone neatly or is that the legs of the lenses that can be seen on the edges of the clear part of the optic?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by neilt
    I take it you used 6 of the Tight Narrow optics as this is mainly a helmet light? Looking at the Cutter site I see they have a Plain medium listed with the same half angle! That confuses me because I was thinking of a build with 4 spots and a couple of mediums to provide some flood. Anyone know if the Cutter info is erroneous? I don't really want to send off and get optics that are no use.

    [Edit]
    Found the Carclo data sheet and there is little or no difference between the Tight and the Plain Medium - in fact Carclo call them both Medium.

    Neilt
    Yes I used the 10417 lens front .
    I got a tray from carclo so have a few spare , for sale if anyone wants any .

    I had the very same idea when doing the build about a couple of wider ones that would be a killer I think.

    I just need to pursuade Deesta to do me a better one

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    It's refreshing to see you are human after all.

    As for the front pic, did the cold effect your ability to silicone neatly or is that the legs of the lenses that can be seen on the edges of the clear part of the optic?

    Emu you have not seen my failure bin It is good that they keep making smaller optics
    so I can reuse some of the duffs.

    no silicon in there just the smallest blob of epoxy on each leg base . nano glueing.
    the mess wilh the silicon is to come when the face goes on

    that is the leg tops

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Neilt
    Yes I used the 10417 lens front .
    I got a tray from carclo so have a few spare , for sale if anyone wants any .

    I had the very same idea when doing the build about a couple of wider ones that would be a killer I think.
    Excellent. My little plan to build something in one of the little Hammond cases looks feasible then. I could get 8 optics in there, in two rows of 4, but I think that would be a touch too much. 6 should be OK, with some additional heatsinks attached to the top of the case.

    I feel an order coming on

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by neilt
    Excellent. My little plan to build something in one of the little Hammond cases looks feasible then. I could get 8 optics in there, in two rows of 4, but I think that would be a touch too much. 6 should be OK, with some additional heatsinks attached to the top of the case.

    I feel an order coming on
    Neilt
    are you in the uk . and if you are ordering from cutters
    then maybe you could just order the wide optics and I will swop 4 wide for 4 of my narrows

    I was thinking the eliptical

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    Good job! all MaxFlexed up now

    The XPE light is all wired and working now , I dont know why but when I do these lights
    there seems to be loads of room , untill it comes to putting the wires and stuff in then it becomes a struggle to fit it all in .
    but it did just fit in






    and one of the maxflex glued to its heat sink which bolts in


  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Good work Chris, there doesn't look like much room in there

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    500
    Troutie, you just keep on pushing the edge! Good going!

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Good work Chris, there doesn't look like much room in there

    It is a bit tight and the Mk 2 version will have more room and be a bit thinner with better heat sinking .

    what is spoiling the design is the size of the switch I like the waterproof Apem switches

    I could go small and use a micro switch but this means more faffing and then loses the universal appeal .


    I have just done a tally on the cost of the bought bits for this light and they come out quite good in these credit crunchy days.


    XPE R2 s £4.69 - $ 7.01 * 6 = £28.14 / $ 42.06
    Carclo optics £ 0.60 $ 0.89 * 6 = £ 3.60 / $ 5.34
    maxflex £ 22.00 / $ 32.51
    switch / socket / other bits estimate £ 20.00 / $ 29.55
    ===============
    £ 73.74 / $ 109.46
    no postage n packing in there .

    Not bad for a potential 1000 lm light

    when compared to a MR11 R2 quad kit from cutters £ 65.82 / $98.43.
    and still need switch socket and sundries £ 20.00/ $ 29.55
    =============
    £ 85.82 / $ 127.98


    Any way all done switch/power socket wired and ready to go for its first ride tonight

    and weighing in at 105 grammes including helmet mount strap






    and as Znomit suggested over on CPF the MK2 will have enough room for a couple of red leds in the back also

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,124
    Troutie, your light just keeps looking better and better. I was going to do the math to figure the voltage drops and then figure what battery to use with the maxflex and then I thought...why not just ask? Besides, I figured you will post with some more beam photos of the first ride so why not just keep you talking. What voltage and type battery are you using to drive this light? Will you helmet mount the battery or just run a longer wire to a pocket or pack? Oh, one more thing...I noticed you mounted a bit of green something under the lights...is this for more heat sinking or what?

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    I hope you remembered to remove the AA battery before you rode....or is it a special kind of heatsink???

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    I hope you remembered to remove the AA battery before you rode....or is it a special kind of heatsink???

    That is one of the new Li uranusium batteries from chernoble will last a lifetime



    Cat
    Thanks

    I am using 14.8 li ion 2400mah pack in a small camera bag that just clips on the camelbak strap

    I am not keen on the battery on the helmet seems to unbalance it

    but I guess you could use 11.1v or even lower but that would make the Maxflex work pretty hard.

    no the is it green stuff is the soft bit of heavy duty velcro which my previous helmet light uses I left it on for insulation to stop my head burning

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hootsmon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    762
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    I hope you remembered to remove the AA battery before you rode....or is it a special kind of heatsink???
    Nope, that AA battery is his power-supply!
    Brisbane, AU

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fuzz541's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    326
    Troutie again lives up to his signature.

    The 3-up Khatod lens from Cutter looks like it would work well for a small Hammond case project.

    Also, Hammond makes a heat sink box that, conveniently enough, has rails in the bottom for t-nut mounts. This would be very convenient for non-destructive mounting of the Cateye or other quick-release brackets.

    However, the smallest model is 100dx90wx51h, so it defeats some of the size advantage of the XPE. It might work very well for MCE / P7 or multi-XRE lights though.

    https://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/531609.pdf

    Troutie's headed down the right path. I think the best way to do XPE's will be with the 10mm cutter boards set into a machined block sinking direct to atmosphere. By direct-mounting the boards to the block, then running the wires individually through small holes through the block out to the driver (or even remote-mounting the driver/switch nearby Minewt-style or at least between the battery and light housing) the housing design could concentrate on finning and heat management in the smallest possible package.

    Very rough idea:


  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    sorry for the high-jack troutie.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzz541
    However, the smallest model is 100dx90wx51h, so it defeats some of the size advantage of the XPE.
    This type of box can actually be found in smaller sizes. I've been looking at this 64X40X30mm for use with XP-Es, it can be ordered anodised in different colours.

    Comparing data sheets the PL1153 actually have more throw than the round 25mm 4*XP-E.

  64. #64
    Fists of Ham
    Reputation: TheBigYin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    90
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzz541
    Found it on Farnell...
    When I die, I want to go like my Grandad, peacefully, in my sleep - not like his passengers - shouting and screaming!

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    Upset Traumatic first ride report

    This was it after a whirlwind build and nearly freezing to death machining the XPE light
    It was time to give it a trail test ride .

    I hooked up with my mate and we decided on a ride we have not done in a year which has a really cool downhill section inside a tunnel of rhodedendren bushes ( spelling a bit iffy)
    with switchbacks for about 1 kilometer it would be the perfect trail for a bit of video

    every think is cool when we get to the trail head
    We have some big guns for lights
    I have a dual MCE-boom ss with 2 R2s on the bars and the new 6 xpe light on my helmet .

    my mate has my triple MCE with boom ss reflectors .
    and my old quad R2 medium Cute optic .

    Every thing fitted and working great just need to sort the Helmet cam out and off we go
    No the helmet cam is still at home with the battery on charge

    Ok we can just enjoy the ride so of up the easy climb which is a nice grassy trail
    Or was last time It had changed in to a swampy nightmare and with in half a mile we were of and pushing through the gloop .
    Then we hif the fog this would have been perfect for a beam shot of the lights if we had the camera .

    then some where in the swampy foggy hell we took a wrong trail which added 3/4 mile to the route which does not sound bad but we pushed all the way to the top .
    how does water stay on a hillside.

    Then it was downhill great hit full beam and rip it , full beam was Baaaad in the fog
    in fact any beam was bad .
    so we struggled down the liquified trail to the tunnel which had been totally destroyed by the wind and meant hiking the bikes over the fallen trees this is not a good day .

    That was the end of the bad trail riding / pushing and it was fire road back .
    this was the only chance to hit full beam and speed .

    Full Beam Oh the lights that is what this is about .

    I would like to be able to tell you that the XPE light was good but sadly I cannot because it was not good .















































    IT WAS AWESOMELY / AMAZINGLY FANTASTICALY BRILLIANT

    It blew away the triple mce for beam and lit the trail great
    the beam shape is like a huge oblong with very little wasted light
    and when compared to the triple mce which ok is good but only because of the sheer volume of light scattered every where .

    The double mce with 2 R2s was better and a really good light very usable
    and the 2 R2s were handy in the fog so it was good to switch off the mces
    But this combo has 10 emitters not 6 .

    I have found my nearly perfect light and will have one on the bars with a mix of optics
    You can have the MCE and I would happily swap them for some XPE


    Sorry no beam shots or video but nexttime


    Get some you wont be disapointed this 6 up has the wow factor I was expecting from the MCEs

    Sorry for the drivel in this post but it is all true

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation: tamen00's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,025
    I just completed my cutter order

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    GAWD! I nearly had a heart attack reading that - having just ordered all those XPEs last night at great expense.

    Now, of course, I can't wait for Cutter's to post the goodies

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Sounds like an eventful ride Chris...

    So, you've found your perfect light? Well, for this week anyway lol

    Looking forward to Friday, can't wait to have a look at the little bugger!!!

    Steve

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    some pics of the MK2 Troutfin light

    just pics very tired after muddy slog





  70. #70
    I don't huck.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    2,543
    trout-man...Your thoughts on a 4 XP-E light build? It seems that would fit my battery needs better. This would be for the hbars.
    Blog Ramblings
    West Coast writer for twentynineinches.com

  71. #71
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Trout, it didn't look like you were using a cross-slide vice to get the finning machined into the block of Al. How were you doing it? Were you cutting the fins vertically as the drill head went down? What bit were you using to do it?

    You are getting me all inspired again.... STOP IT! My wallet can't afford it

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    Trout, it didn't look like you were using a cross-slide vice to get the finning machined into the block of Al. How were you doing it? Were you cutting the fins vertically as the drill head went down? What bit were you using to do it?

    You are getting me all inspired again.... STOP IT! My wallet can't afford it

    It is a milling machine so has a 2 axis table so the slots are milled not drilled


  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    109
    I had exactly the same sinking feeling reading Lord Trouties post as I too last night ordered a bunch of XPE's.

    Lord Troutie is our saviour!

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Chris,
    If you need any cutting tools, let me know before Friday as I have a few lying around that may be of use to you Got all sorts of goodies.....slot drills, end mills, solid carbide....all sizes!!!

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Neilt & formantjim

    GOTCHA

  76. #76

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    If you're after increased surface area more, thinner, fins would be the go .. no?

    What about just knurling the whole thing?

    What you really want is a heat conductive zeolite pad on the top. Lots of surface area! Clay also has a huge surface area -- did you notice a cooling effect when you were waist deep in the stuff?

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by glowinthedark
    If you're after increased surface area more, thinner, fins would be the go .. no?

    What about just knurling the whole thing?

    What you really want is a heat conductive zeolite pad on the top. Lots of surface area! Clay also has a huge surface area -- did you notice a cooling effect when you were waist deep in the stuff?

    I only had a 3mm slot drill so that is the spacing
    No cooling worries I am happy it works on the trail , dont need that many lumens on my desk .
    It is crazy bright @ maxflex level 3
    full power is for the lumen war and fast riding.

    And funny you mention it but ploughing through the viscous clay had me overheating



    Steve yes please you cant have too many tools .

    I bet you can beat the 6 hours it took to mill that out

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    No problemo....I'll sort out a selection for you

  79. #79
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    If thats the crappy mini mill you have I want to swap garages. Hell, even if its not, I wanta swap anyway

    Can you expand the pics of version 2 so I can see where the lid starts and ends, it will make it easy for me to copy?

    Do you think I'd get away with running 4 in series from a 12v battery?

    Thanks

    Stuart, ordering milling bits today for my cross slide vice and drill press

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I would like to be able to tell you that the XPE light was good but sadly I cannot because it was not good .
    Haha, you are crazy! You really got me. I was thinking "did he add those empty lines to make the next post start on a new page?" I usually hate smilies, but that small orchestra was hilarious.

  81. #81

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I only had a 3mm slot drill so that is the spacing
    I am soooo far out of my area of expertise (not that I really have one) ... BUT ... just coz the slot drill is 3mm doesn't mean the spacing between the slots has to be 3mm .. does it?



    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    And funny you mention it but ploughing through the viscous clay had me overheating
    Yeah. I was being a smartarse .. couldn't find a smiley for that.

    Looks amazing though. Nice job as usual.

    I have this mental image of one section of the UK being visible from the International Space Station solely as a result of all the Trout Lights being turned on simultaneously.


  82. #82
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by glowinthedark
    I am soooo far out of my area of expertise (not that I really have one) ... BUT ... just coz the slot drill is 3mm doesn't mean the spacing between the slots has to be 3mm .. does it?

    No, the thickness of the fins can be less than 3mm but the gap between them can't be. Given the overall length would be to suit the number of leds / lenses this will determine the number of fins that can be cut into it. I think Mr Perfecto, sorry Troutie, will like to keep them fairly even from a visual perspective so it then comes down to a matter of only being able to get so many in the given space.

    The other thing is, the thinner the fin, the more noticeable it is when they are slightly different thicknesses. I speak from experience on this one, yet another fugly that will never be seen

  83. #83

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    No, the thickness of the fins can be less than 3mm but the gap between them can't be.
    I re-read my post and must now apologise for the desperately bad wording.

    "Gaps between slots" = "fin width"

    (not that it matters)

    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    The other thing is, the thinner the fin, the more noticeable it is when they are slightly different thicknesses. I speak from experience on this one, yet another fugly that will never be seen
    Thanks for the insight. Like I said, I know so little about this that to say I know nothing is big-noting myself. Having said that .. would the knurling idea be a useful one? I know lathe type people have told me there are little tools to do it, so a consistent pattern is easy to achieve, and it would certainly increase surface area.

    Here is some seat of the pants stuff ... I don't have anything knurled to hand, but they result is basically little pyramid shapes .. yes?

    Apparently the surface area of a pyramid is



    Now, bear with me, the increase in surface area if a surface is knurled, as opposed to flat, can be conveniently be expressed as a ratio of the surface area of a pyramid compared to that of a square, like so:

    surface area increase = (2*b*s + b*b) / b*b

    (where b*b is "b-squared")

    So

    surface area increase = 2s / b + 1

    So the amount of surface area increase depends on the ratio of the length of the pyramid face to the length of the side of the pyramid. If we assume s = b (in the right ball park) then

    surface area increase = 3

    (i.e. 300% increase in surface area)

    How does this compare to slots? The increase in surface area of a slot is the area of the side walls. If we use Troutie's example (but assume the slots are the same depth as they are high, which is not necessarily true, but makes it easier to think about) then the surface area increase is 2 (think of a cross section of the slot, before cutting there are two equal areas, after cutting there are four).

    If you double the depth of the slot you get a ratio of 3.

    What the heck, the maths is like so:

    We have some metal of width w, with n slots (width s) of depth d and an equal number of fins of width f.

    We won't bother multiplying everything by the length of the metal, it will all wash out in the maths, so the area of the bare metal is w and the area of the slotted metal is

    area (slotted) = n*f + n*s + n*2d = n * ( f + n + 2d )

    so the ratio of slotted to bare is

    surface area increase = n * ( f + s + 2d ) / w

    now the area of the bare metal is the area of the tops of the fins and the bottoms of the slots, i.e.

    w = n * ( f + s )

    plug that back into the surface area equation:

    surface area increase = n * ( f + s + 2d ) / n * ( f + s ) = 1 + 2d / ( f + s )

    WTF?!?! I hear you say. Well indeed. Some examples help.

    For the case where f = s (the slots are the same width as the fins, approximately what Troutie has)

    surface area increase = 1 + d / s

    So if the depth of the slot is the same as the width (d=s) then we get back the thought experiment above, surface area increase is 2. If we double the depth, the increase is 3.

    What if Troutie increased the number of slots as I suggested? Let's pretend he could halve the width of his slots, so f = s / 2, and

    surface area increase = 1 + 3d / 2s

    So if the depth of the slot is the same as the width (d=s) the surface area increase is 2.5.

    (if any of this tosh is wrong, please feel free to correct it)

    This is a helpful result. My suggestion to increase the number of slots is stupid. Increasin g their depth is way more effective. There might be a practical and aesthetic limit to the depth of the fins, and if this is the case then knurling looks an attractive alternative.

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hootsmon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    762
    Plus 1 to everything glowinthedark says about a) knurling, and b) deeper fins.
    • I'm no rocket-surgeon, but the maths looked pretty right to me.
    • I agree that increasing the fin's aspect-ratio (ie. height:width ratio) will certainly yield more surface-area.
    • Likewise, a knurled surface will yield a useful increase in surface-area too.
    • But remember we're talking about convection-cooled bike-lights here, not fan-cooled CPU heatsinks (or whatever). So my gut tells me that a super-agressive fin design won't necessarily perform as well in still-air (which is when you need cooling most) when compared with the forced-ventilation case.
    • Also, vertical fins (especially on top of the housing) would typically perform better than horizontal fins.

    Thoughts?
    Brisbane, AU

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    If thats the crappy mini mill you have I want to swap garages. Hell, even if its not, I wanta swap anyway

    Can you expand the pics of version 2 so I can see where the lid starts and ends, it will make it easy for me to copy?

    Do you think I'd get away with running 4 in series from a 12v battery?

    Thanks

    Stuart, ordering milling bits today for my cross slide vice and drill press


    Stu
    it is crappy compared to the 60 year old lathe at the other side
    down to one gear and expecting that to break soon
    yes will do some pics for you
    Copy
    But you are supposed to say wow can I buy one when Deesta does a run on his CNC machines.


    ======

    Glowinthedark

    The spacing is just chance on my behalf the led cavitly is 60mm wide
    the milling cutter is 3mm and 3 full turns on the crosslide wheel = 6 mm
    so it was easy for me to index it correctly for each fin
    and 10 fins = 60 mm plus the extra at the sides
    it sort of just happened that way

    I am very crap at all the other aspects like tech drawing , and theory ,
    and hopless an anything like a cad software .
    I wish I wasnt as it would save me so much time and raw materials.

    My working method is look at the leds and optics . measure them
    then stare at the lump of ali for a while , and then just start removing metal
    and the design is very dynamic and evolves as work progresses ,


    I can read you post there and even understand most of it .

    knurling yes I can see the advantage there .

    thinner fins and more of them do as Stu comments look terrible if not all even
    and I like to have good mass in the light also it gives you some time for it to heat up when stopped like a buffer ,


    ========

    gillestugan

    Ha Ha you are correct about crazy .

    last nights posting was like the Trout fishing for the angler
    I am still giggling about it

  86. #86

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by hootsmon
    But remember we're talking about convection-cooled bike-lights here, not fan-cooled CPU heatsinks (or whatever). So my gut tells me that a super-agressive fin design won't necessarily perform as well in still-air (which is when you need cooling most) when compared with the forced-ventilation case.

    Thoughts?
    I'd be inclined to think the opposite. There are plenty of passive chip heatsinks that are spikey little beggars. Alot of space between the fins would be the go for setting up decent convective currents .. no?

    Probably impossible to say unless someone modelled it properly. The lack of knurled chip heatsinks tends to suggest to me that they aren't too crash hot in a still-air situation. But I think the area that is of most concern is not still air, but slowly moving air on hill climbs (and Trout-deep mud slogs). In this case the convective cooling is still dominant, but not efficient enough. As long as there were no funky boundary layer effects with knurled surfaces then it should be pretty effective (boundary layer effect = still layer of air "attached" to the surface).

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    pics of the Troutfin lite
















  88. #88

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    The spacing is just chance on my behalf the led cavitly is 60mm wide
    the milling cutter is 3mm and 3 full turns on the crosslide wheel = 6 mm
    so it was easy for me to index it correctly for each fin
    and 10 fins = 60 mm plus the extra at the sides
    it sort of just happened that way
    Fair enough. If I was you I wouldn' t be changing anything! You are getting great results the way you work now.

    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I can read you post there and even understand most of it .
    It was a useful exercise and the results surprised me, so I am suspicious I have made a mistake.

    One of the more eyebrow raising results was as the effective fin width approaches zero (i.e. really effing thin) the surface area increase ratio approaches 3 for the case where the slot depth is the same as the width of the slot.

    Now this seems like rubbish to me as the slot width is increasing, so must the depth for this case. I'm sure I've stuffed something up. I have a hidden assumption in there somewhere that I am too stupid to figure out .. probably shouldn't have the slot width and fin width as separate variables (they are related by the total width after all).



    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    knurling yes I can see the advantage there .
    Do you have the tools for knurling on your lathe? I was told by an engineer here that it is very easy for him to do. Might be easier than fins (the bottom ones are good for airflow underneath though) and just as effective.
    Last edited by glowinthedark; 01-13-2009 at 11:04 PM.

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by glowinthedark

    Do you have the tools for knurling on your lathe? I was told by an engineer here that it is very easy for him to do. Might be easier than fins (the bottom ones are good for airflow underneath though) and just as effective.

    I have no knurling tools and I do know it needs quite a bit of grunt in the machine to do properly.
    my lathe has the grunt but I cant do non round things

    The minimill it would be the death off I am sure .

    The bottom fins were an design improvement from the mk1 and does give allround airflow

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Just my 2 cents regarding knurling:

    In my 20 years as an engineer, I've yet to come across a tool that will knurl on flat bar. The way it works is by forcing a form tool into a rotating bar. You can get tools now that will cut a knurl rather than form it but it's still only anygood on round bar.

    Aslo, I wouldn't have thought that you would gain much in the way of surface area. Most knurling is around 0.4mm deep.

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Aslo, I wouldn't have thought that you would gain much in the way of surface area. Most knurling is around 0.4mm deep.
    Agreed, knurling isn't the way to go.

    The simplest thing for Troutie would be to make more cuts at right-angle, thus creating little pillars.

    Even better would be to fabricate something like this heatsink. That little 25mm square device is good for 10C/W in still air - multiply that by 4 to get a rough approximation to the top surface of Troutie's light, and you have massive cooling ability. That's what I'm thinking of doing if I use the little Hammond case for my version of this light.

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    All this talk and it sounds like Trouties light has a heat problem

    It kept stone cold last night even on the slow mud crawl and even when the triple mce had tripped.

    There comes a point when losing mass is a bad thing
    extreme case take some aluminium foil and plase a hot thing on it the heat doesnot spread out that much.and nor does it aid it cooling much.

    also what you all are forgetting is I am using the creme of drivers the maxflex
    and it will look after the leds if you ask it.

    Now you have made me go out to get a DMM with thermal sensing .

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    It looks to me, with my limited knowledge, that there should be enough heatsinking. And if you don't need to drive them that hard, heat shouldn't be an issue

  94. #94
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by neilt
    The simplest thing for Troutie would be to make more cuts at right-angle, thus creating little pillars.
    This doesn't increase surface area if your fins are the same size as the gaps between them. I did the sums before I built mine, thinking it would increase surface area but you net out the same, with less mass, and more corners to cut yourself. As mentioned earlier, the best way is to increase the depth of the gaps, which is another way of saying increase the height of the fins.

    I'm with Troutie on this one, in George we trust.

  95. #95
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    The MKII version of the case looks much more cohesive. With the extra sinking and a shade more mass around the ends of the optic hole, this is going to be one cool light.

    Nice work and thanks for posting it!

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    This doesn't increase surface area if your fins are the same size as the gaps between them. I did the sums before I built mine, thinking it would increase surface area but you net out the same, with less mass, and more corners to cut yourself. As mentioned earlier, the best way is to increase the depth of the gaps, which is another way of saying increase the height of the fins.

    I'm with Troutie on this one, in George we trust.

    Hells bells I had to draw that out to see what you meant

    You are right there Stu but it had me dead confused.

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    How about different grades of aluminum. Different heat transmission rates too I bet.
    Keep it simple. If the light doesn't shut down or melt my helmet from the heat, then I am happy. If the light does either then bigger fins/mass or I need to ride faster.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    It is a good job I wanted a new multimeter you have tipped me into getting one

    Hey they are dead cool with the temp probe .
    I have wandered around the house measuring temps of things .
    but stopped short of measuring my own body.


    For this test this is as scientific as it gets .
    I had holes drilled for the bolts and these are 3mm from the back of the led boards
    so 5 mm from the led it self

    The ambient temp is 14c and this was also the starting temp at the back of the leds
    maxflex is set to 60 degrees thermal trip and 700 ma
    Troutie time lapse piccy taking at approx 30 second intervals

    I will let the pictures tell the story and see what the number crunchers come up with .
    but I am very happy with the results .
    I have my own theorys but will save them untill later

    <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="https://s199.photobucket.com/flash/remix/player.swf?videoURL=https://vid199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/HEAT%20TEST/626f2d3e.pbr&hostname=stream199.photobucket.com"></embed>

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    That's very impressive Chris...Just moving along slowly should act like a low fan

    No problems with heat at all then...

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Looks good to me, Chris.

    What was the soundtrack? It sounds like some band I know but can't place it.

  101. #101
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb

    For this test this is as scientific as it gets .
    I had holes drilled for the bolts and these are 3mm from the back of the led boards
    so 5 mm from the led it self
    So your temp probe was actually closer to the LED's than the maxflex is (since in the first model the maxflex is mounted on its own block and is some distance from the LED's).

    Are you thinking the maxflex tripped itself and it wasn't a function of the LED's at all?

    What did the surface temp of the light feel like while all this was going on. With a core temp of 40 deg i would expect that the surface temp would be quite a bit less.

    thanks for running the test

  102. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    My first thought was that it was due to bad thermal conductivity in the maxflex chip. This makes the chip more than 15 degrees hotter inside than on the outside, where it is connected to the heatsink via the board. So when the heatsink reaches 45 degrees the chip is already over 60 degrees inside. but... that doesnt make any sense as the temperature sensing is performed within the uController. The uController doesn't generate any heat itself (almost), so it shouldnt get hot from inside.
    Probably the whole board gets over 60 and the uController only senses the temperature on the board and is not effected by the heatsink?
    You may keep it open and touch the board with your finger "probe" to see if it much hotter than the housing.

    Edit: I just realized by looking at your pictures that the ucontroller doesn“t seem to be in contact with the housing. This would explain it as you easily may get higher airtemps inside the housing as the diode and the inductor also produce heat, and those are not cooled by the heatsink.

  103. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Right I will present the data I have gathered.
    this is quite lucky that the maxflex is AA epoxied to a block of ali
    which is bolted and thremal paste to the housing at the back
    My reasoning was to get it on the housing least affected by the leds
    as it is working quite hard and needs its own sink

    I removed the bolt and was able to get to 2 mm from the maxflex sink area so probed that in another test .

    then I have a M5 threaded hole in the base also so could probe there and get an air temp
    in side the housing .

    First test the maxflex tripped and the probe was in the solid heatsink behind the leds

    the temp was 44 c at what should be the hottest place times dont matter here .

    second test when it had returned to ambient temp with the probe near the maxflex base

    it tripped at 43 c in a similar time as the first test a check of the hole behind the leds said 43 c

    also the exterier of the housing was 40 c

    next I tried again with the probe in the mount hole just in the air in side the housing

    again it tripped in a similar time as the first 2 tests but the air temp inside was
    49 c .

    a quick check of the other points and their temps were similar to the first 2 tests.

    I have seen some thing from George somewhere saying the chip that gets hot is near the IC that monitors heat and there is a lag in sensing .

    My theory is the housing is shedding heat all the time and conducting heat away from the leds fairly quick but air is a good insulater and the maxflex chip is warming the already warm air which is struggling to shed it the ali housing is nearly a constant temp
    so allowing for lag the and the size of the chips it is reaching the 60c limit in the warm air .and tripping .

    so the leds are never in a risky situation allowing for the same lag and even being generous .

    you must remember this is inside a house with still air

    when I put the fan on it rapidly brought the temp down even on low air speed

    also after the time lapse pics I left the light on for a further 20 mins on high with the fan running slowly and the temperature stabilised at 27 degrees and never tripped


    That is my take on the data collected , but then I am no thermal dynamics expert .

  104. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    The uController with the temp sensor is the 8 pin chip next to your maxflex heatsink, so you may try to make a heatsink that covers both the heatsink area and the chip to make the sensing more accurate.

  105. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by gillestugan
    The uController with the temp sensor is the 8 pin chip next to your maxflex heatsink, so you may try to make a heatsink that covers both the heatsink area and the chip to make the sensing more accurate.

    My heatsink is exactly the same size as the copper area on the maxflex

    I have just done a test with the bolts removed and whipped the top off as soon as it tripped to check the maxflex I had to do it 3 times and put a tiny blob of compound to gat a consisant reading and it cools real fast
    but it did read over 50c each time and cooled in seconds to 40

    so if I want to keep the maxflex cold run with the top off but then fry the leds

    I think it is working just fine and tripping with a good safety margin for the maxflex and the leds .

    again this is inside a house. on max power.with the maxflex set @ 60 c

    when you can set it to 90c

    50c may trigger too many trips to be annoying



    removing the lid did make the leds temp soar rapidly though

  106. #106
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    My heatsink is exactly the same size as the copper area on the maxflex

    I have just done a test with the bolts removed and whipped the top off as soon as it tripped to check the maxflex I had to do it 3 times and put a tiny blob of compound to gat a consisant reading and it cools real fast
    but it did read over 50c each time and cooled in seconds to 40

    so if I want to keep the maxflex cold run with the top off but then fry the leds

    I think it is working just fine and tripping with a good safety margin for the maxflex and the leds .

    again this is inside a house. on max power.with the maxflex set @ 60 c

    when you can set it to 90c

    50c may trigger too many trips to be annoying



    removing the lid did make the leds temp soar rapidly though
    That is some nice investigation trout. Good to know that LED's are nice and safe.

    Interesting to see that the lid was so useful in heat dispersion and that the LED temp soared without it on.

  107. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    Yes, you will be just fine with programming a higher trigger temperature. It is only the leds and the switching regulator that is easily damaged by heat, an those are obviously running cool. I am very happy to see your compact housing is able to handle the heat so well. 45 degrees when used in 20+ degrees is very good.

  108. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    60
    Just something from another thread to keep in mind...
    Even if you managed to put the temperature probe directly on the back side of the star, the emitter temperature would be minimally about 35-40 degrees C above the measured temperature (this is not a wild guess but taken from the Cree XR-E documentation). If the probe is somewhere further out on the heat sink then temperature difference can easily grow to 50C or more. So, if you measured 45C the emitter could easily be close to 100C (not yet alarming but you are starting to lose those lumens).

  109. #109
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    My heatsink is exactly the same size as the copper area on the maxflex

    I have just done a test with the bolts removed and whipped the top off as soon as it tripped to check the maxflex I had to do it 3 times and put a tiny blob of compound to gat a consisant reading and it cools real fast
    but it did read over 50c each time and cooled in seconds to 40

    so if I want to keep the maxflex cold run with the top off but then fry the leds

    I think it is working just fine and tripping with a good safety margin for the maxflex and the leds .

    again this is inside a house. on max power.with the maxflex set @ 60 c

    when you can set it to 90c

    50c may trigger too many trips to be annoying



    removing the lid did make the leds temp soar rapidly though
    Mate forget all of this, go back and look at your little vid.

    Stabilising at 28 Degrees with a fan on low - you've got to be absolutely wrapped with that. Just put the lid on and get out and ride and enjoy yet another masterpiece.

    George has spoken many times about how the sensor works, the effect the ambient air inside the housing has on the temp, the distance from the leds etc etc. You have nailed this first time mate, well Ok, maybe mk2 is the better looking one. Just enjoy it and stop questioning what is clearly working.

    For everyone else that is going to build their own version and are concerned about the temp, you can heatsink the top of the chip that is mounted on the other side of the little gold area of the maxflex, sorry I forget what the chip is called. This will improve heatsinking of the maxflex slightly, but as Troutie has eluded to, this is then at the risk of over heating leds.

    BTW Chris, couldn't you have found a MM with a smaller display panel. It must be a right PITA luggin that thing around everywhere

  110. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Just enjoy it and stop questioning what is clearly working.
    +1 for that!

    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    you can heatsink the top of the chip that is mounted on the other side of the little gold area of the maxflex, sorry I forget what the chip is called.
    That is the microcontroller that handles the different levels as well as containing the temperature sensor. connecting it to the heatsink will make it sense the led temperature better.

  111. #111

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Just my 2 cents regarding knurling:

    In my 20 years as an engineer, I've yet to come across a tool that will knurl on flat bar. The way it works is by forcing a form tool into a rotating bar. You can get tools now that will cut a knurl rather than form it but it's still only anygood on round bar.

    Aslo, I wouldn't have thought that you would gain much in the way of surface area. Most knurling is around 0.4mm deep.
    Thanks for the input. Apparently it is possible to knurl a flat surface:

    Yeah, you can roll a knurl on a surface ("flat" or "face" knurling). If
    you're going to do a lot of it, it really should be done with a special
    rolling machine. But for "now and then" applications it is routinely done
    in a vertical mill (Bridgeport). They chuck the knurling tool into the mill
    spindle, press it down against the workpiece and then crank the bed back and
    forth, while the tool remains stationary. The knurling wheel is set a
    little deeper with each stroke until you get the desired pattern. I believe
    you can use the same wheels as for rotary knurling, but you might need a
    special tool holder that can be chucked into the quill.
    but like I said, I know less than nothing.

    I have made mistakes with the maths for the slots, but the conclusions about the pyramid are sound I think. The increase in surface area is totally dependent on the ratio of the length of a pyramid face to the edge length of the pyramid. Even if the knurling is very shallow as long as it is also very closely spaced then the surface area improvement will be the same.

    Make sense?

    If it was easy to do then knurling would be a no-brainer for DIY-Dinotte style lights for example. A simple method to increase the effective surface area to 300% of the original.

    I have done a little googling and knurling is something that some engineers do to increase heat transfer in pipes (on the inside, clearly). So it is not unheard of.

    Basically I was hoping we could have some rules of thumb (like the 1sq inch/W rule) so people didn't bother over-engineering their cooling, or at least get the best bang for their buck (where buck = spousal time credits).

  112. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Yes I think I am very happy with the mk 1 and am sure the the mk 2 will work just as well
    there is going to be a working mk2 sat on my bars .

    And if Deesta does a a few on his cnc machines these will be even betterer
    and anodised black .

    The only tweek I am going to try is to swop 1 or 2 optics for an eliptical when Neilt`s order comes in from cutters .

    I might need to get a dentist to extract one of the optics though

    Oh and one desigh change put the lid underneath then no screws on top
    probably get better finning that way too .

  113. #113
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Oh and one desigh change put the lid underneath then no screws on top
    probably get better finning that way too .
    That was going to be one of two changes that I intended to make, the other was switching a couple of the leds but I'll start a seperate thread on that shortly as I don't want to hijack one of your brilliant build threads.

    Nice work mate.

    BTW, I previously said get out and ride and enjoy what you have built. I was wrong, you need to get back in the shed and see if you can come up with something better for us all to drool over

  114. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    That was going to be one of two changes that I intended to make, the other was switching a couple of the leds but I'll start a seperate thread on that shortly as I don't want to hijack one of your brilliant build threads.

    Nice work mate.

    BTW, I previously said get out and ride and enjoy what you have built. I was wrong, you need to get back in the shed and see if you can come up with something better for us all to drool over


    Now I am curious " switching a couple of leds ???"
    look forward to the new thread .

    Riding is pure enjoyment as is shed time but I am thinking I may be falling of the edge of the envelope and new designs will be slow in coming .

    I have 4 mces to use up and sell to buy some more XPEs

  115. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    The correct beam shots but in my garden

    While I am on a roll here are some comparison shots at the different current settings
    of the maxflex .

    I removed the first shots because of doubt in my tempory driver setup
    but now with a brand new Maxflex there can be no doubt.



    Ouch I put that shot in because it was shot @ the mtbr setting 6secs @ f4

    I had to alter the settings quite a bit to get the burnout gone.

    the camere settings for the next set of shots is 3.2 secs @ f7.1




    maxflex @ 700ma / 500ma / 350ma hi setting






    then same order but maxflex low






    It is 12 metres to the corner of the fence
    and for the beam angle finders out there each fence panel is 1.8 mtres wide

    These show the superb beam with little spill , will be interesting to see it with an eliptical in there too .

  116. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    just experimenting with the 3 photos


  117. #117
    aka Chris
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    Fantastic stuff - looks amazing for the size.

    I would be interested in buying one of the CNC'd production housings, even more so if there's an option to get one with all the soldering done (in exchange for a contribution to a beer / bike fund - I've killed too many bits myself already!).
    The Novice's LED Light Building Blog

  118. #118
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    That poor little potted tree ......it may not survive after the blowtorching it took in that first photo!

    LED Supply tells me they will have the XP-E and optics soon Any other US sources currently? I don't want to deal with ordering them from the other side of the earth....they're made here, so why aren't they sold here?

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  119. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    LED Supply tells me they will have the XP-E and optics soon Any other US sources currently? I don't want to deal with ordering them from the other side of the earth....they're made here, so why aren't they sold here?

    JZ
    Er, they are quite likely to be made on the other side of the earth in China:
    http://www.electronicstalk.com/news/crv/crv118.html

  120. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    22
    Troutie. I've fettled 2 of your early proto housings last year for the 3-up cutter kits. All still in weekly use Thanks

    It's been great this year to not lust after the newest latest lights... until now.

    If you and Deesta get some housings sorted I'd definitely take one off your hands. Keep up the good work fellas!

  121. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by davew255
    Troutie. I've fettled 2 of your early proto housings last year for the 3-up cutter kits. All still in weekly use Thanks

    It's been great this year to not lust after the newest latest lights... until now.

    If you and Deesta get some housings sorted I'd definitely take one off your hands. Keep up the good work fellas!

    Cheers dave
    have you any pics

    Deesta has my prototype with a view of improving the engineering and manufacture
    and then hopefully they will become available along side his housing .

    anyone interested get in touch with Deesta or Troutie.

  122. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    22
    Attached a couple of photos of my builds. My first time posting pics so hope it works and doesn't mess up your thread.

    Using Lumi style power connector and switch: very easy to get hold of & cheap. Been totally reliable except the rubber boots on the switches wear through after a while. I really like having the power connector plug into the back of the light: neat & really easy to use.

    I'll drop you a mail Chris: please let me know when housings are ready.

    Dave
    Attached Images Attached Images

  123. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Thanks Dave
    I just wanted to have a look at the early stuff again
    They look well used
    Have they been reliable

  124. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Thanks Dave
    I just wanted to have a look at the early stuff again
    They look well used
    Have they been reliable

    Not particularly well used in the photos: this was them about a year ago: they've had a lot more use since but still look pretty good.

    Troutie: what's the longest you've kept a lamp?

    Totally reliable, never missed a beat in almost 2 long seasons (have kids so night-riding September - May) of once or twice a week use. Plenty of stacks in that time, and the helmet lamps always smashing into low branches, but no damage at all.

    Only problem was with the initial build when the bFlex was damaged when it shorted with the (+15V) casing due to the power socket design (centre positive solved that).

  125. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    181
    You're not the Davew i know are you?

  126. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    [QUOTE=davew255]

    Troutie: what's the longest you've kept a lamp?

    QUOTE]

    My helmet light with the built in red tail light has been on my helmet for about a year
    but this will be retired/ sold as the 6xpe one has replaced it now.

    and the diy easy one is lighting the lathe and mill .

    all the others are scattered over the world or empty shells in the scrap bin

  127. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    New beamshots This light gets better

    I have recieved some carclo eliptical 10mm optics ( Thanks Neilt ) And good luck with your build

    so I have just swopped a couple of the narrows out and elips in and this just gets better
    it keeps the throw and fills the sides



    ---------6 XPE WITH 6 CARCLO 10MM NARROW OPTICS-------------------------------------------------------------6 XPE WITH 4 CARCLO 10 NARROW & 2 ELIPTICALS OPTICS


  128. #128
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,153
    YES! That's what I want!

  129. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I have recieved some carclo eliptical 10mm optics ( Thanks Neilt ) And good luck with your build
    Looking very good, Chris.

  130. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    46
    Oh hell yeah !!!!

    when your organised put me on the dibs list :-))))

    6 XPE WITH 4 CARCLO 10 NARROW & 2 ELIPTICALS OPTICS
    would be the preferd optics :-)

    what is the battery set up with this beast mr.trout ? (14.8v etc ?)

  131. #131
    Fists of Ham
    Reputation: TheBigYin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    90
    It's not that good a light - you never saw them nick your Bike...
    When I die, I want to go like my Grandad, peacefully, in my sleep - not like his passengers - shouting and screaming!

  132. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigYin
    It's not that good a light - you never saw them nick your Bike...
    Great spot BigYin.....

  133. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,124
    Troutie, your stuff just gets better....the elliptical optics do indeed add another dimension to the light, however since this was a suppose to be a helmet light (?) I still prefer all the light being thrown into the distance. Now if this was to be a bar light, the set-up with the ellipticals would absolutely be what the Doctor ordered. Now I can't wait to see someone build something with two of the triple XP-Es. (...when or if they are available )

  134. #134
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigYin
    It's not that good a light - you never saw them nick your Bike...
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Great spot BigYin.....
    Go easy on him boys, he must be in mourning.

    I would suggest the problem wasn't the light, they clearly took the bike when the light was out and he was changing lenses trail side.

    Not to fear, I will be watching this space to see what sort of a frame he can make himself out of the parts in his shed. No point buying a commercial frame now that you have both a lathe AND a mill is there Mr Trout?

  135. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062


    Ha Ha ,
    No the bike was nicked while I was sweeping the leaves up, Those Elves are mischievous little devils.
    ,Got have nice tidy trails
    As this must be the best known bit of woodland in the world by now .

  136. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kangaroomadman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    25
    Its certainly the best lit one!

  137. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    Troutie is the artist here. Thank you for thinking outside the box as usual.
    Here is a standard light,P7 left XPE right, body design from my other post with the 4 XPE emitters (XPEWHT-L1-WG0-R2-0-01 R2 Flux WG Tint) and the 4 Carlco XP 10417 Tight Narrow.
    Driving with Buckpuck 1000 mA 2p2s. So 500 mA per emitter.
    Blows away the P7 and the MCE at 700 mA.
    Build difficulty is also significantly higher.


  138. #138
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Nice work Tex! That sure is a punchy little beam compared to your MCE's etc. It will also be super efficient at only 500 ma. It's a win - win!

  139. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Ace post Odtexas. Thanks .

    As I have blown my light building budget I can only watch as the builds trickle through.

    We all have been waiting for some triples to appear , but your quad is even better
    right from when I started the 6 I have wondered how 4 would compare to a MCE/P7 as a like for like shootout

    and you have done the biz .

    Build difficulty higher , Is that because they are little fiddly beggers .

    forced air cooling too

  140. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    Thanks gents.........

    Darn buggers are tiny. So soldering in the bridges is challenging. Then its trying to get all the optics and their legs aligned. Became more difficult as the bottle got lighter.


    I sawed a section off of some T slot for the forced air cooling. No mill here.


    Building bodies tomorrow it looks like.

  141. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    447
    Quote Originally Posted by Harpoon
    Fantastic stuff - looks amazing for the size.

    I would be interested in buying one of the CNC'd production housings, even more so if there's an option to get one with all the soldering done (in exchange for a contribution to a beer / bike fund - I've killed too many bits myself already!).
    +1

    I started reading from the last page... wasn't understanding the scope, so I went to the front of the thread... and I about crapped myself. This light is AMAZING.

    I've never done a DIY yet of any type (read: light newb). But you folks are such an inspiration and help, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger. Just a matter of which design.

    But Troutie... you've set the bar high. Really high. Great job so far and continued good luck with it.

    23.gif

    PS -- The above slayed me. That post was comic genius.

  142. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by racerdave
    +1

    I started reading from the last page... wasn't understanding the scope, so I went to the front of the thread... and I about crapped myself. This light is AMAZING.

    I've never done a DIY yet of any type (read: light newb). But you folks are such an inspiration and help, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger. Just a matter of which design.

    But Troutie... you've set the bar high. Really high. Great job so far and continued good luck with it.

    23.gif

    PS -- The above slayed me. That post was comic genius.



    Thank You Racerdave.

    I dont think I will ever get to the bar again never mind over it .
    Just wait till you see the CNC d version that Deesta is doing should be sweet.

    Yes I dont know where the comic post came from but I still chuckle at some of the replies.

    I do wonder how many XPE`s have gone out the door @ Cutters since this thread started.



    Hell Tex are you doing lights for everyone

    and that section looks to be ready made housing

  143. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    The one of the left has 4 XPE emitters (XPEWHT-L1-WG0-R2-0-01 R2 Flux WG Tint) and the 4 Carlco XP 10417 Tight Narrow. Driving with Fatman (boosting this one) 1000 mA 2p2s. So 500 mA per emitter.
    Light on the right is MCE4WT-A2-0000-000M10 Cool white, 430 min lumens,WC Tint with a CMC-RS lens. Driving with Buckpuck 1000 mA 2p2s. So 500 mA per emitter.


    4 XPE with Fatman

    MCE with CMC-RS

    MCE with CMC-M


    There is central artifact in the RS. That classic + shape of the 4 emitters. It is noticeable, but not too bothersome.

  144. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    586
    odtexas,

    I saw that artifact when using the CMC-RS too. I much prefer the CMC-D

    Great pics. The MCE does look a little brighter than the XP-E. Which light would you say illuminates the yard with more natural of a color. Looking at the pics I think the XPE makes the grass in the foreground look more natural.

  145. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    yes As il2mb says great pics.

    and where as the MCE looks to be brighter there it is out on the trail when the MCE runs out of reach and the XPE doesnt that is what I like about them .

    Also in an email from Mark @ Cutters
    " I hope to have triple XPE MCPCB here this week and optics in 5 way(penta)"

  146. #146
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb

    Also in an email from Mark @ Cutters
    " I hope to have triple XPE MCPCB here this week and optics in 5 way(penta)"
    That is what I am waiting for. They should fit nicely into some little torch heads I have laying around.

    pardon my ignorance but what is a 5 way optic? Is he saying there should be optics of 5 different beam angles to choose from?

  147. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    61

    Wow!

    Quote Originally Posted by glowinthedark

    I have made mistakes with the maths for the slots, but the conclusions about the pyramid are sound I think. The increase in surface area is totally dependent on the ratio of the length of a pyramid face to the edge length of the pyramid. Even if the knurling is very shallow as long as it is also very closely spaced then the surface area improvement will be the same.

    Make sense?

    If it was easy to do then knurling would be a no-brainer for DIY-Dinotte style lights for example. A simple method to increase the effective surface area to 300% of the original.
    First off, I came to the party late and am really impressed with the developments going on here. I just spent the last half hour reading through from the beginning and as someone who has some nice HID lights that have batteries that are quickly going bad I'm interested in inexpensive (relatively) lights for 24-hour races.

    Regarding the surface area ratios of knurled:flat I have a quick question. Please feel free to correct me as I am probably missing something really elementary.

    The way I understand it, we are comparing the total surface area of a square-based pyramid to the surface area of a flat surface, i.e. (2bs+b*b)/(b*b). There seems to me to be an error in this way of thinking. If we are truly comparing exposed surface area of the material in question, shouldn't the base of the pyramid be eliminated from the surface area, as this isn't an exposed area? If this were the case the ratio would be 2bs/(b*b) and if b is roughly equivalent to s, then our ratio would reduce to 2:1, or a 200% increase in surface area.

    Again, I'm probably missing something but it seemed kind of wonky to me.

    Lovin' your guys' work!

  148. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    That is what I am waiting for. They should fit nicely into some little torch heads I have laying around.

    pardon my ignorance but what is a 5 way optic? Is he saying there should be optics of 5 different beam angles to choose from?

    I think it means these Salty



  149. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    778
    So theoretically, an achesalot style housing could fit 12 XPEs... they would have to be driven below 700ma each for heat concerns, but still.... that would be just a bit of punch for the downhills! What would be usable for a prolonged time? 350mA or not even that much? I may have to reconsider my dual MCE design I've been planning and go for 6 or more XPEs!

  150. #150
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by Hack On Wheels
    So theoretically, an achesalot style housing could fit 12 XPEs... they would have to be driven below 700ma each for heat concerns, but still.... that would be just a bit of punch for the downhills! What would be usable for a prolonged time? 350mA or not even that much? I may have to reconsider my dual MCE design I've been planning and go for 6 or more XPEs!
    Achesalot has 2 x MCE = 8 dies in his most recent model at 500mA with a few cooling fins on the design which seems to handle the heat pretty well. Using P=VI
    (12.4vf x 2) x 0.5A= 6.2 W.

    If you assume 6.2 W is the max it can handle (which I am not saying it is) then you would end up with:

    6.2= (3.2x12)xI
    I=6.2/(3.2x12)
    I =0.164A

    now I don't think 164A is going to be particularly exciting so lets double it just for the hell of it and say 350mA sounds fine

  151. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by Hack On Wheels
    So theoretically, an achesalot style housing could fit 12 XPEs... they would have to be driven below 700ma each for heat concerns, but still.... that would be just a bit of punch for the downhills! What would be usable for a prolonged time? 350mA or not even that much? I may have to reconsider my dual MCE design I've been planning and go for 6 or more XPEs!


    Sounds right for an achesalot style .
    I have no experience on the cooling of his builds I am sure he will be able to say .

    but in my light the 6 xpes @ 350 it does not even get warm on the desk

    I would put the 6 xpe light up against a dual mce and there would be a good chance it would equal its scores .


    I have 4 MCE sat here and would gladly swop them for XPEs if I could .
    they were going to be in a quad MCE / Hipflex / stem mounted light
    But I have lost interest in them .

  152. #152
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I think it means these Salty


    Whatever happened to the carlco 20 mm triples? I haven't seen that they have come into stock although they are listed on cutters site. Has anyone tried them or was the beam angle looking too wide? I am thinking the 35 mm ledil optics are probably going to be a bit to physically large big for my plans. Any updates on them WeLight?

  153. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    Whatever happened to the carlco 20 mm triples? I haven't seen that they have come into stock although they are listed on cutters site. Has anyone tried them or was the beam angle looking too wide? I am thinking the 35 mm ledil optics are probably going to be a bit to physically large big for my plans. Any updates on them WeLight?

    Salty The Torch master .

    The triple optics are in stock I believe
    they were waiting for the triple mcpcb boards
    for the leds . to go with them .

  154. #154
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Salty The Torch master .
    .
    I have a little pile of torches waiting to go

    I can't seem to construct a neat enough housing without them They are all gaps and butchery...

  155. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    778
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Sounds right for an achesalot style .
    I have no experience on the cooling of his builds I am sure he will be able to say .

    but in my light the 6 xpes @ 350 it does not even get warm on the desk

    I would put the 6 xpe light up against a dual mce and there would be a good chance it would equal its scores .


    I have 4 MCE sat here and would gladly swop them for XPEs if I could .
    they were going to be in a quad MCE / Hipflex / stem mounted light
    But I have lost interest in them .
    Good stuff, I have a bunch of square tubing still, and I have an already made achesalot, so I know what I might do if I get bored with it!

    I was thinking 12 XPE would fit in a triple achesalot style housing... and I don't like the looks of the epoxied on heat sink fins, so.... haha, it might get a little hot even at only 350mA! I think I might have to wait to try and machine my XPE light then.

    You've lost interest in your MCEs? Well, I'm always open to donations...

  156. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Chris,

    I may be tempted to take 3 of the MCE's off you for my triple....done to your mods

    I think that plus a 6-er XPE should be about perfect

  157. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    The MCE's and P7's are wonderful out to about 50 ft on the trail. No lens that I have come across extends that range. They all look super bright but no significant illumination beyond 50 ft in the real world.

    I like these XPE's color. The real strength is their throw/rebound. With the XPE's the amount of return light from reflection is significantly stronger. It is that intensity of reflected light that we see as we bike.

  158. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    The MCE's and P7's are wonderful out to about 50 ft on the trail. No lens that I have come across extends that range. They all look super bright but no significant illumination beyond 50 ft in the real world.

    I like these XPE's color. The real strength is their throw/rebound. With the XPE's the amount of return light from reflection is significantly stronger. It is that intensity of reflected light that we see as we bike.

    You could always go the hybrid route of 1 MCE -CMC SS & 2 XPE s




  159. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    Troutie

    I liked your light when you did the big unveiling. The chassis is the issue for me. I am working with prefabricated bits with minimal modifications. If I ever get a mill then watch out, but for now I like the T-slot and 1 inch square stock from Home Depot.

    I like to run the light and battery on the helmet. So 2 to 3 cell Lion batteries (3.7 to 11.1 volts) and a small light head. 4 emitters seems to fit this goal very well giving me smaller light chassis and plenty of light at 500 to 700 mA. Really liking the output of the 500 mA as of late.

    XPE gives best results. Cutting edge fun and wow goes to XPE without a doubt.

    I think the MCE's gives lighting as good as most anyone needs for biking. They are also easier to work with especially when you just have to stick a Boom SS on it.

    Just saying if you want to build a good light the MCE's or P7's will fit the bill. If you want to join the lumen arms race then order your XPE's right now. Operators are standing by.

  160. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Troutie

    I liked your light when you did the big unveiling. The chassis is the issue for me. I am working with prefabricated bits with minimal modifications. If I ever get a mill then watch out, but for now I like the T-slot and 1 inch square stock from Home Depot.

    I like to run the light and battery on the helmet. So 2 to 3 cell Lion batteries (3.7 to 11.1 volts) and a small light head. 4 emitters seems to fit this goal very well giving me smaller light chassis and plenty of light at 500 to 700 mA. Really liking the output of the 500 mA as of late.

    XPE gives best results. Cutting edge fun and wow goes to XPE without a doubt.

    I think the MCE's gives lighting as good as most anyone needs for biking. They are also easier to work with especially when you just have to stick a Boom SS on it.

    Just saying if you want to build a good light the MCE's or P7's will fit the bill. If you want to join the lumen arms race then order your XPE's right now. Operators are standing by.

    Odtexas I have to agree with every word there specialy the Wow bit

    And the XPE R3 is rumoured to be imminent maxing out @ 130lumens @ 350ma
    so the future is bright.

  161. #161
    aka Chris
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    Will the Troutfin Lite be going into "production " Sir Troutie?
    The Novice's LED Light Building Blog

  162. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by Harpoon
    Will the Troutfin Lite be going into "production " Sir Troutie?

    The Housing is receiving the attentions of Deesta who will be CNC machining some very soon hopefully .
    When I have one and get it anodised then I will advertise them in the classifieds .
    I already have orders for 9 and that is before they have been seen .

    anyone interested PM me and I will put you on the list
    I cannot say a price yet untill Deesta has made one and worked out a costing .

    I have no plans to sell them as complete lights because of warranty issues
    but will build some if requested .

    Thank you for your interest

  163. #163

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by epicxt
    Regarding the surface area ratios of knurled:flat I have a quick question. Please feel free to correct me as I am probably missing something really elementary.

    The way I understand it, we are comparing the total surface area of a square-based pyramid to the surface area of a flat surface, i.e. (2bs+b*b)/(b*b). There seems to me to be an error in this way of thinking. If we are truly comparing exposed surface area of the material in question, shouldn't the base of the pyramid be eliminated from the surface area, as this isn't an exposed area? If this were the case the ratio would be 2bs/(b*b) and if b is roughly equivalent to s, then our ratio would reduce to 2:1, or a 200% increase in surface area.

    Again, I'm probably missing something but it seemed kind of wonky to me.
    Blame me. You're right. I forgot to take away the surface area of the bottom of the pyramid.



    So the surface area increase for a knurled surface is 200% (roughly speaking).

    I completely ballsed up the bit for slots. But doubling the slots should double the extra surface area, but as a ratio of existing area it depends completely on the depth and number of slots.

  164. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Thanks gents.........

    Darn buggers are tiny. So soldering in the bridges is challenging. Then its trying to get all the optics and their legs aligned. Became more difficult as the bottle got lighter.


    I sawed a section off of some T slot for the forced air cooling. No mill here.


    Building bodies tomorrow it looks like.
    I like this section ! What is it? Where did you get it? Would a 10mm optic fit in there without modifications or would it be loose?
    When you think that life is though, keep a positive attitude : remember that it is short ;-)

  165. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    61

    Cool...

    Quote Originally Posted by glowinthedark
    Blame me. You're right. I forgot to take away the surface area of the bottom of the pyramid.



    So the surface area increase for a knurled surface is 200% (roughly speaking).

    I completely ballsed up the bit for slots. But doubling the slots should double the extra surface area, but as a ratio of existing area it depends completely on the depth and number of slots.
    Just a fresh set of eye-balls looking at the problem. Still, a 200% increase ain't shabby, and if the surface were knurled before the slots were cut...

  166. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    Calina

    Do a search on ebay for T slot aluminum. Pulls up lots of different styles. This stuff is used for making custom enclosures/racks/whatever.
    This is the 1 inch in height version. You could put one XPE per opening easily. The interior is about 15.5 mm so the only driver in the body would be the micropuck. A 500 mA per emitter would make for a nice light. Center hole allows for a bolt to hold on a front/back cover.
    They do make a 1.5 inch version. Would expect interior dimension to be around 20 to 21 mm. That would take an MCE and many different drivers.
    Here is a picture with the 10 mm Carlco XP lens.


  167. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    107
    Thank you for the quick answer.

    It is pretty hard to look for something when you don't even know what it's called...
    Now at least I have a name for it. I'll try to find it locally as the shipping cost on ebay for this kind of item is usually a killer.
    When you think that life is though, keep a positive attitude : remember that it is short ;-)

  168. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    il2mb wrote

    odtexas,

    I saw that artifact when using the CMC-RS too. I much prefer the CMC-D

    Great pics. The MCE does look a little brighter than the XP-E. Which light would you say illuminates the yard with more natural of a color. Looking at the pics I think the XPE makes the grass in the foreground look more natural.
    Sorry, missed you question on the first read. The XPE gives the best throw and color. Color is based on Bin but the throw is all about the optics and dice size I think.

  169. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017

    Who would like to see some photo's of the CNC'd prototype??

    I've had a chance to do the prototype........nearly complete, just a few slots to put in

    Would anyone like to see some photo's???

  170. #170
    aka Chris
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    Pictures? Yes please
    The Novice's LED Light Building Blog

  171. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    MMM yes Please from me too

  172. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Here you go.....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  173. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Here you go.....
    Cute!

    I feel a rebuild coming on

  174. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    I have been out and just come back
    Looking pretty good and made out of gold too that should be ok for heat

    What have you got left to do .
    the slots for the strap

    What happens at the front for a cover .


    Nice clean lines I want to touch it now

  175. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Looking pretty good and made out of gold too that should be ok for heat
    According to http://www.goldprice.org/gold-price-per-gram.html the cost of gold is about £20 pr gram, so now we can calculate the cost of Troutie-lite:
    1300 gram gold x £20/gram + £50 for CNC machining = £26050

  176. #176
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by Geir68
    According to http://www.goldprice.org/gold-price-per-gram.html the cost of gold is about £20 pr gram, so now we can calculate the cost of Troutie-lite:
    1300 gram gold x £20/gram + £50 for CNC machining = £26050
    OK that seems a fair price ready to take your orders I will knock off the £50 machining cost as that will be covered by the swarfe scrap value

    contact me in nigeria for payment details .

  177. #177
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,153


    I just JIMP. I can't imagine not setting all the lads up with these. 1000+ lumens, a little bigger than a deck of cards and a great beam pattern. Oh my yes...

  178. #178
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    What a magic little light! Simply put - one of the best. Keep up the good work boys!

  179. #179
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Not too bad weight wise..gonna save a bit more too
    Attached Images Attached Images

  180. #180
    aka Chris
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    Looks superb!
    The Novice's LED Light Building Blog

  181. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    134
    That looks fookin awsome!!
    Tommo.

  182. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Absolutly ace work there Steve Thanks.

    When are you going to be in a position to run a few off
    after your housing run

  183. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Thanks Chris,

    I'm pretty pleased with how it's come out. I've strill got the slots to do on the sides, the slots for the helmet strap and the slot for the lense cover. Do you think it would be better to fix the lense cover with a couple of screws or just some silicon sealant?

    Would you like to have the finished job in your hands to have a play with before I start a run? I'd be able to fit the in fairly quickly, depending on what you wanted to do...

    Steve

  184. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Thanks Chris,

    I'm pretty pleased with how it's come out. I've strill got the slots to do on the sides, the slots for the helmet strap and the slot for the lense cover. Do you think it would be better to fix the lense cover with a couple of screws or just some silicon sealant?

    Would you like to have the finished job in your hands to have a play with before I start a run? I'd be able to fit the in fairly quickly, depending on what you wanted to do...

    Steve

    If you are doing a slot for the optic cover then in my eye some carefull siliconing is ok

    Yes I would like to touch it before you make a couple of thousand .
    just in case it needs any tweaks.

  185. #185

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    36
    Awesome!

    How much, i'm in for 1.

  186. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    22
    Looking very nice.

    What's the deal with switches /power sockets: these being left for buyers to drill?

    Whereabouts can they be fitted? On the top / back? I'd like to do something similar to this:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  187. #187
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Hi Dave .

    Plenty of room on the rear for switch /socket , I thought it best to leave that for the user
    as so many different options . But I will put holes in if needed




    Cheers Funky monkey
    PM sent

  188. #188
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Ok Folks

    I will be putting an add in the classifieds soon

    and if you want one of these little beautys
    PM or EMAIL me and I will send you paypal details



    the production housing will be a little heavier not much though

    As you all have seen this little package is pretty awesome and makes a superb
    helmet light .
    it fits to the helmet with an easy to get from most Diy stores velcro strap

    you could also put a bar mount on it for an ace bar light.

    I am in a position to say they will be £ 50 / $ 72 / Euro 57 - plus postage and packing.
    which should be no more than £10 worldwide you pay what I pay.

    Black anodised will be approx £5 extra and add a week lead time from when I get the
    housings.



    they will be ready to put 6 XPE leds and 6 carclo 10 mm square optics in
    with an integrated heatsink for the Maxflex to be thermal epoxied to .

    it will have the 4 bolts in stainless to fix the base plate

    and also a piece of clear polycarbonate to cover the optics

    When I get the one off Deesta I will build it up and do a photo step by step to show how easy it is to do .

    Thanks for your time Troutie

  189. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    778
    Troutie, what kind of mini-mill do you have? I'm dreaming of getting my own at some point and I'm curious to know what our resident mad scientist is using!

    I'm dreaming of a 12 XPE light.... which would be wonderfully insane!

  190. #190
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,378
    I notice its the King of lights, nice touch

  191. #191
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    A couple more pics with the side slots and helmet strap slots in place....

    Will have it in the post for you tomorrow Chris...should keep you busy for about 5 minutes
    Attached Images Attached Images

  192. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Cheers Steve looking good cant wait to get it in my hands.

  193. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    716
    Hey Mr Trout, if your floggin owt, how about a link in your sig. line?
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  194. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by HEY HEY ITS HENDO
    Hey Mr Trout, if your floggin owt, how about a link in your sig. line?

    Yes I will do that soon when I have seen the finished article.

    You never answered My question in the sewer rats post in the other thread
    I was trying to spot the cyclist in those pics

  195. #195
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    716
    lol, there was a prob getting my pic to load
    .......... here i am

    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  196. #196
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062

    What a little beauty

    I have just caught the mailman with my Troutielite housing off Deesta.
    and I am well impressed it is very nice .
    I have done a few piccys even though you have seen some .






    You all know much of this info but here it is again.

    The housing is CNC produced by Steve aka Deesta
    and will take 6 XPE leds and Carclo 10 mm optics , and I am hoping the Ledil Lisa optic
    which I have on order to try out.
    From the beam shots you have seen it is a pretty darn good light for the helmet but will be able to take a bar clamp also for a killer bar light.

    Soon I will be building it up and doing a detailed account of how to do it to show how easy the build is.
    I have put an add in the classifieds also link in my sig line.


    And now some even better news

    Mark aka welight From Cutters ( Thanks Mark )
    has kindly offered a discount for what may be called the Troutie kit
    which should be 6 XPE leds / 6 -Carclo 10mm optics / and a MaxFlex


    As we all know this is a sweet combination with batteries from 15v downwards

  197. #197
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,017
    Looking good Chris

    How does everything seem to fit? Does it all go in ok? Thoughts on the lid on the underside? I reckon it looks really neat, no visible screwws etc I think there would be enough material in the lid to securely fasten a bar mount to.....

  198. #198
    aka Chris
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    That looks very sweet guys - top stuff.

    How would the bar mount work?
    The Novice's LED Light Building Blog

  199. #199
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    716
    Steve, Chris ........mmmm drooling on my keboard..... this is gorgeous
    .... i`ll have 2 from your first batch thanks ..
    seen the sigline/ad Troutie,

    .and,..... nice one mark/ cutters!
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  200. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Looking good Chris

    How does everything seem to fit? Does it all go in ok? Thoughts on the lid on the underside? I reckon it looks really neat, no visible screwws etc I think there would be enough material in the lid to securely fasten a bar mount to.....
    Looks good Steve.
    there are a few minor tweaks and I will mail you soon about them .

    I have had a bit of a shock but will speak to you about it soon.
    nothing bad.


    Harpoon a bar mount will mean drilling a hole in the base and bolting the mount on or I can do a tapped M5 hole for a lumi mount.


    Hendo Great I will add you to the list .thanks.

    good piccy Abit muddy last I believe

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.