Simple DIY R2-drop based helmet/head lamps (pics)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Simple DIY R2-drop based helmet/head lamps (pics)

    Hi,
    I did a little bit of handy work and thought I might share it with you.

    First a headlight with one r2, 2-modes (full and low), runs off 4xAA batteries. Plenty power and yet not too heavy for a headlamp. Cheap as well (parts cost around $25-30). The holder is made out of a one piece of thin metal with a piece of garden hose in the middle for platform. The battery cover has been sewed from some basic sofa fabric.


    Some more shots.



    The second helmet lamp is a double version of the previous. The mount plate is a little different and only full mode. But it runs off a 2s 18650 li-ion pack that gives it plenty of run time. The battery pack has been assembled from dx-cells and soldered together. Some shrink wrap and that's it. The battery cover was pain in the ass to make (A lot of very tight corners). Light weighs 100g and battery pack 150g.
    I run this along side with a P7 in a r2-drop in which gives me good flood and these provide tight spots.


    Last edited by -LightOn-; 08-28-2009 at 08:25 AM.

  2. #2
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    That's really nice; simple and clever. Can you show pictures of how you attach the drop-in to the garden hose.

    Thanks

    Tim

  3. #3
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    Sure thing. I'll post pics of the mount and some beam shots as well.

  4. #4
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    Do those drop-ins get very hot?
    DX also sells heatsinks for RC motors - I think they can be used in this design.
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15140

  5. #5
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    No the drop-ins don't get hot at all. No heatsinking issues. For comparison, I've built a SSC P7 lamp using the same r2 drop-in and driving that at 2.8A generates a lot of heat. I've built some serious heatsinks for that. When cycling the heat is no issue, but in still air the P7 lamp outside gets to 60 degrees C. Then the internal temperature sensor kicks in and switches to lower mode (internal temp limit at 90C).

  6. #6
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    More pics and info

    Here is a better photo of the mount. I've used piece of the same metal I did mount with and bent it around the garden hose. Then I bent a little claw for the o-ring and epoxied it to the drop-in. I've also drilled a little hole to the piece of metal so that the epoxy catches the mount better.


    I told you earlier that I did also a p7 mod to the r2-drop in. Here is a picture of that.


    The battery pack pouch attaches very nicely to my bike. I also added some more heatsinking to the p7 light.



    Then some beam shots. First beam shot of the double r2 light.


    Then the p7 mod.


    Then some outside shots. They have been shot with the mtbr-setup (iso100, f4, 6s and daylight WB). I didn't have a proper stand so the photos are a bit blurry, but you get the idea how the lights actually work.

    R2 alone. Good throw, but very narrow.


    P7 low. Just not enough for trails. Good for commuting though.


    P7 high. Almost enough. Good flood, but I wanted something more spotty as well. That's why I built the double r2.


    P7 low and r2. Works.


    P7 high and r2. I like it. Good combination between flood and throw from the two lights. Also with the r2's on my helmet I can illuminate objects that I want way better from far away already.



    Finally, here is a link to my p7-project:
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=219700

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the additional pictures. The mounting arrangement is excellent.

    Tim

  8. #8
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    Some heat testing

    I did some heat testing the other day. Bellow are the measured results for three light setups.
    1. The P7 with the original heatsink attached in the project (HS1). (The black sink on the top)
    2. The P7 with additional heatsinks attached (HS2). (The two wings on the sides)
    3. The 2x R2 drop-ins without any additional heatsinks.



    As you can see all the setups reach a temperature limit with no fan. With P7 the d2flex temperature monitoring lowers mode and with R2 there is some protection built in cause clearly it stops at 60C.

    Air flow has huge affect as can be seen so these room temp tests in still air not really even valid because you would have to have so much mass and area in your lamp for the lamp not to heat up. Heatsinkin does work as can be seen between HS1 and HS2. Pretty happy now with both lamps temprature wise.

    -m

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