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Thread: Racing Shoes

  1. #1
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    Racing Shoes

    I read a paper on the effect of pedal/shoe combo weight yesterday. Apparently, 1/2lb on your pedals/shoes, will effectively add 2lbs of weight to your bike. Don't quote me on those "facts" but there is no doubt lighter the better on rotation components-not sacrificing performance.

    What shoes are you using??

  2. #2
    "Its All Good"
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    Sidi Dragons... Love them, mind you some say they are narrow shoes, but suit me fine. Have the same in the road version as well. Over 2 years old, have just replaced the souls on my mtb Dragons..... Really impressed with them.... Expensive, but the time I have had from these has been very worthwhile $ wise
    The_Lecht_Rocks: whafe - cheeers - may i offer an official apology for the wagon wheeler "dis-belief"

  3. #3
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    I seem to remeber a time when the mtb pros used to use carbon soled road shoes with small amounts of "tread" glued on to give some form of traction when off the bike. I've recently acquired some carbon road shoes & they're 240g lighter than my normal mtb shoes. I've only done 1 quick ride on them so far, but you can definately notice the difference, both increased stiffness & reduced weight
    Last edited by scant; 03-30-2007 at 05:56 AM.

  4. #4
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    Hmmmmm

    I've tried the Sidi's and they look fantastic, but my foot doesn't agree with the footbed. How do the road shoes work when you step off the bike? Do you have to run your road pedals with them?

  5. #5
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    most road shoes also have the 2bolt SPD normal. walking in carbon sole road shoes is like ice skating! I'm going to try & bondo some aftermarket shoe repairers "tread" onto the carbon bottoms like "ye olde mtb racers"

  6. #6
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    Definitely let me know how that works! I'm looking over the Specialized line-up of road shoes. (I'm currently in the BG design and they are comfy!) Send me a PM after your experiments.....

  7. #7
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    Can I live with out my buckle and just go with the velcro?

  8. #8
    No longer 26
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    I really like the Adidas Adistar Pro carbon mtb shoes I got last year. Plenty stiff, plenty light, the tongue is acutally part of the instep so it is one piece and gets placed under the outside part of the outer which keeps it in place (Compared to my Shimano carbon road shoes where the individual tongue slides to one side all of the time.) If I was to do it again, I might get the next step down without the ratchet. Seems to snag on something once every few rides/races and loosens up. Fit is fantastic for me though.
    Greg
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  9. #9
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    Sub-650-700g Mtn shoe in size 43.5/10.5. does it exist? (ok, rocket 7's are out of my price range)

  10. #10
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    light shoes

    I would check out this shoe from Nike:

    http://store.trekbikes.com/jump.jsp?...&bShopOnline=1

    It looks pretty light and stiff. Any shoes with an adjustable buckle will be relatively heavy-if you have to have a buckle, the Sidis are probably the lightest buckle shoes around. You can also lighten a MTB shoe considerably by trimming excess sole lugs, removing spikes, and plugging the spike holes with plastic bolts instead of the stock steel bolts in most shoes.

  11. #11
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    Specialized BG s-works are listed as 350grams a shoe, I think for a 42 size. I really want to know what are the light shoes out there, hard to find the weights. Weight weenies has some listed.

  12. #12
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    I don't think you should go looking for a light shoe. Find the one that fits your feet well then find their lightest model. Much like Ski boots, I've found bike shoes fit different feet. And wearing the wrong ones are going to kill you and rob power.

    Sidi's are nice but I CAN"T wear them due to the fact that I have wider feet.

  13. #13
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    Well said. There is definitely a difference. I can't wear the Sidi's for the same reason. I have "operated" on my shoes for the last few days -cutting overkill treads and such. I need to get them on a scale and see where they are. I like the idea of taking the same brand in the road shoe copy and finding a way to attach some treads.........

  14. #14
    Illuminati
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    just got the scales out

    nike altea2 road shoe 334g, nike 10/2 mtb shoe 474g. both shoes are size43 & the weights include shimano SH51cleats.

    I love the fit of both, more so than my previous shimano shoes. but as mentioned above, try before you buy, lightest shoes in the world wont make you fast if they're uncomfortable

  15. #15
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    I'm assuming the nike shoes fit nearly identical and have similar comfort. So now what will you do knowing the difference in weight? c.300g/pair

  16. #16
    Go faster!
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    Sidi bulet 2 are under 620g and very stiff. I like them.

  17. #17
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    as I mentioned before I've only done 1 short (road) ride on the road shoes where-as I've covered a lot of miles in the 10/2 mtb shoes. the road shoes feel a lot lighter & stiffer but currently totally impractical to walk in! I'll call into a shoe repair place in the week & ask their opion regarding some heel, ball of foot & toe grip. an old friend once managed to rip the entire rubber tread section off his shimano shoes (the blue yellow, with neoprene colar model if anyone remebers that model?), he bought some shoe-goo in san fran, bought some aftermarket generic replacement rubber treads from a shoe repairers & after cutting them to shape (they were designed for normal shoes) bonded them on with no problems (& nearly his fingers, seriously sticky glue!)

    I'll say now from the outset. I think most mtb shoes are rightly overbuilt, scuffing on rocks, walking etc. they need to be tougher. my little shoe project is more for limited race shoe use. I'm not sure road shoes longer term would hold up well too persistant off road use/ abuse as they're not designed to.

    if after all that you're wondering why I'm still bothering!? I couldnt believe the on bike noticeable reduction in weight loss & they're not going to get massively prolonged use as I'll still do the majority of my riding in my current mtb shoes.

  18. #18
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    Sidi Dominator 5

    size 42.5 with 2 x soccer studs in them and no cleats bolts are 714gms on my scales.

    I love the Sidi fit

  19. #19
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    Im going to try and frankenstein a road shoe. 2 houses away from mine is an owner of a shoe and leather repair store, so ill call in a favor. Going to buy an old pair on fleebay and well see, dont want to try this on my shimano 300's.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by xterraracer
    Can I live with out my buckle and just go with the velcro?
    I went to the buckle system with my shimano 225. The damn velcro on my old shoes would come undone when I was walking up steep hills when it was muddy. It was slowing me down.
    A bicycle will take you to fantastic places....if you let it.


    Ibis fan since '08 now rolling on the big wheeled Ripley.

  21. #21
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    Adidas Adistar XC pro's

    Been using them for about a year now. LOVE them. I did a 5 mile hike in them after I tore a sidewall in my shoes and the carbon fiber is still going strong. Ive inspected them time and time again and not one fiber looks compromised. THey are damn stiff too. Not sure if they are the lightest cuz Im not really up oin shoe weights hahaha!! but they sure do feel light.

    A good fitting shoe will make you faster than a shoe that saves an ounce or two. Now, if the lightest shoe in the world happens to fit you, by all means.... go for it. But if going light means not being comfortable... forget about it.

    And while im typing.... Cleat placement is even MORE important in my opinion. I recomend anyone who hasent; go to your local bike shop that you KNOW has a knowledgable fit tech. Have him look you on the trainer for a while to cheack your fit and cleat placement. I can guarantee you'll be a happier rider.

  22. #22
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    Very nice...

    My foot does tend to favor the specialized BG stuff. I picked up a pair of the Pro carbon road shoes yesterday off craigslist for a song. I'm assuming they will have the exact footbed. Then it's off to the shoe repair shop to glue a few treads on! I don't intend to use these for everyday use, just for racing and road riding. It would be a shame to have to hike-a bike out of the woods and tear these up!

  23. #23
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    Eureka! I think I may have found a solution. I did pick up a pair of Speci pro carbon road shoes yesterday on craigslist (very nice, very cheap). Looking at Crankbrothers website, I did not know(shame on me) that they make a "quattro cleat" http://www.crankbrothers.com/quattro...p?itemId=74650
    Or, If your road shoe of choice does not have the SPD option:
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/3hole_cleat.php?itemId=

    And only adds 62g /pair!

    Assuming you use eggbeater cleats.......

  24. #24
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    I have used the quattro cleat with road shoes on a mountain bike and it works well (as would be expected). Another way to put traction onto your road shoes works with a fairly high speed drill from under the insole, through the carbon outsole, allowing you to put a wood screw (or something of the like) into a rubber block. With the quattros though there isn't much more traction needed. You will need two pairs of shoes depending on where you race as un-expected run ups or rocky situations can end up costing you much more time than a lighter, stiffer shoes saves you.

  25. #25
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    Good thoughts. I am waiting for my new Quattro pedals to come in the mail. That will give me the same setup for both the road bike and mtn bike. I did ride with the new shoes yesterday and there was a noticable difference! I like it!!! I will be examining the course to determine the amount of Hike-a Bike required .. thanks

  26. #26
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    I just ordered a pair of 2007 Dominator 5's 44.5 size. we'll see how they are!

  27. #27
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    I just wore out a pair of Dominator 5s (compliments to a pair of Shimano road shoes with the quattro cleats) and have some 45 Dominator 6s on the way. I will post a weight once they arrive.

  28. #28
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    Anyone tried the new Shimano M300? I've heard they're under 700g, and the custom mold makes them appealing to someone like me with a funny-shaped foot (narrow heel, wide toe-box, very low volume overall foot). I've been using Dominator 5 megas, but they wear out too fast for me (soles soften up, and the lorica on the sides gets torn up by rocks really fast).
    A hardtail is forever

  29. #29
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    '07 Dominator 6 sz. 45: 815 grams -- no cleats, with insole and all standard hardware (have the SRS sole).

  30. #30
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    I have SIDI Dragon 2's - They are FANTASTIC!

    My local SIDI dealer had a foot measurer - I take a mens size 12 shoe US - 47 metric in a cross country ski racing shoe (Alpina & Solomon) but a 45.5 in a SIDI... The foot measurer also measures width - I have a wide foot. They special ordered a pair for me - It took a week for them to arive. After the first outing the jury came in - they beat the crap put of my old pair of Specialized. Easy/fast to adjust and the heel cup adjuster is fantastic! No more heel lift or rubbing.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4212darren
    I went to the buckle system with my shimano 225. The damn velcro on my old shoes would come undone when I was walking up steep hills when it was muddy. It was slowing me down.
    A week later the strap breaks after I crash. Looking for a replacement.
    A bicycle will take you to fantastic places....if you let it.


    Ibis fan since '08 now rolling on the big wheeled Ripley.

  32. #32
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    Yes, anyone tried a pair of M300? What's keeping me from buying it is the thermoforming procedures. I'm not seeing any signs of that so called oven in all our LBS here. Actually, here's how it works: find a Shimano shoe dealer that has the "300 fit kit." It consists of an oven and a vacuum pump. This is the step-by-step procedure that I've just lifted off directly from that URL I've linked here. But Shimano said, "You don't need to mold the shoes to use them - without molding they fit like a standard Shimano shoe." Well for those who tried the molding process, such makes a difference, however. Oh, yeah! Going back, here are the steps: First the insoles are molded - warm them in the oven, put them in the shoes, put the shoes on until the insoles cool down to room temp. The insoles come out and a shoe goes in the oven (you fit them one at a time) until they reach the proper temperature. Shoe comes out, insole goes in, you put shoe on, tighten straps... then things get weird. A heavy plastic booty goes over the shoe, a hose is snaked into the booty, the booty is sealed and the fitter throws the switch on the vacuum pump. The force with which the bag clamps down on your foot is surprising, and a bit uncomfortable, but it's necessary to mold the thermoform panels to your foot's shape. After a short while, the vacuum is switched off and the shoe remains on until it cools to room temperature. Repeat for the other foot and you're done. Shimano recommends you let the shoes stand for 24 hours before the first ride so they set fully.

    Well, maybe Eric (atmos) could help me here... Does your Shimano shoe dealer have such thing -- 300 fit kit? It consists of an oven, and a vacuum pump... TIA!

    TGIF!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by jcatienza
    There was no need to scare potential buyers and burn bridges "buddy"
    Tell me now, what's Product testing all bout then?

  33. #33
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    I have a pair of 520 gram (with cleats) Rocket 7 shoes and a pair of Sidi Dom 5's mesh (730 grams). Although the R7's are uber-comfortable, I can't really tell that much difference in weight riding them. Certainly nothing like the 2-pound difference mentioned earlier. I don't think weight is nearly as important in shoes as fit.

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