MCE helmet lights.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    MCE helmet lights.

    Most of the lights posted are biased towards bar mounting. Let's have a look at helmet mounted lights and how the lights are actually connected to the helmet, and maybe arrangements for cables and switches. I think this is a neglected area in this forum, which is focused (pardon the pun) more on lenses and lights.
    Please post pics and inspire us with your designs.

  2. #2
    aka RossC
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    oh oh oh, I'll go first!!!

    This was for a mate's odd shaped helmet. It was a rough prototype mount and I have since come up with a slightly neater way to execute the idea (i just haven't done it in the flesh yet).




    Then there was my MK1 build which had a low profile mount:



  3. #3
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    Here you go.
    My Minewt beater. Velcro works well on lighter lights.

    Dual leds with independant controls/power and built in tail lights.







  4. #4
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    Znomit, which of the Polymer Optics do you have in there? I have built a similar setup and ordered the #170's from Cutter, but unfortunately they don't stock them anymore and said the #186's are the replacements which they sent instead.

    Unfortunately the #186's are frosted which makes them so dull. I have found that an array of 3 x #186's can be overpowered by just 1 of the Cree 25deg optics.

    I am really disappointed in the Polymers but yours seem quite bright so I was wondering which # it was?

    Cheers

  5. #5
    aka RossC
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    Oh crap, I totally missed the MCE part of the title. Scratch my two entries then!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_Mozz
    Znomit, which of the Polymer Optics do you have in there? I have built a similar setup and ordered the #170's from Cutter, but unfortunately they don't stock them anymore and said the #186's are the replacements which they sent instead.

    Unfortunately the #186's are frosted which makes them so dull. I have found that an array of 3 x #186's can be overpowered by just 1 of the Cree 25deg optics.

    I am really disappointed in the Polymers but yours seem quite bright so I was wondering which # it was?

    Cheers
    Oh double crap, just like Ocean I missed the MC-E bit. Old fashioned boring XR-Es in there.

    I have a MC-E narrow frosted polymer optic. No so narrow, the frosting needs to be there to hide the dies. I'm going Boom SS for my next build.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treadly
    Most of the lights posted are biased towards bar mounting. Let's have a look at helmet mounted lights and how the lights are actually connected to the helmet, and maybe arrangements for cables and switches. I think this is a neglected area in this forum, which is focused (pardon the pun) more on lenses and lights.
    Please post pics and inspire us with your designs.

    Here is my MCE helmet light , well bar and helmet light , designed for the MCE and Ledil EVA optics .
    Not fully built yet as was wanting to test for the best optic first.




  8. #8
    aka RossC
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    Hang on,

    This has an MCE in it now so probably fits the bill


  9. #9
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    At last, I can make a contribtution. I have been following these lighting threads for the past year or so and have taken lots of ideas away. Thanks to all the contributors, especially achesalot and troutie - I have pirated a few of your ideas!

    My helmet mounted set up borrows heavily from achesalot with the main difference being the controller (bFlex) is remote from the head unit and resides in my back pack along with the battery. The bFlex is controlled via a remote switch that hangs over the shoulder - a battery warning LED is incorporated. The bFlex and switch (fabricated using the momentary switch provided with the bFlex) are embedded in potting compound.

    The head unit (147 grams) and of course the controller and switches and battery (wound in hockey tape for that Canandian touch and coated with truck bedliner spray) are all totally water proof - an important feature here on the wet coast of B.C. This was the main reason for my departure from the basic achesalot design - that and the desire to have heat sink directly behind the LEDs (runs extremely cool as air flow is forced up through the bottom of the light due to the curvature of the front of my helmet).

    OK....the light is using Seoul P4s, but I am building an identical setup with a maxFlex and 3 MCEs as we speak. Can't wait to get out a blind a few more of my buddies.

    PS - how do you embedd images in your text!? I can't seem to make it work.

    Cheers
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    MTBiker
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini510
    At last, I can make a contribtution. I have been following these lighting threads for the past year or so and have taken lots of ideas away. Thanks to all the contributors, especially achesalot and troutie - I have pirated a few of your ideas!

    My helmet mounted set up borrows heavily from achesalot with the main difference being the controller (bFlex) is remote from the head unit and resides in my back pack along with the battery. The bFlex is controlled via a remote switch that hangs over the shoulder - a battery warning LED is incorporated. The bFlex and switch (fabricated using the momentary switch provided with the bFlex) are embedded in potting compound.

    The head unit (147 grams) and of course the controller and switches and battery (wound in hockey tape for that Canandian touch and coated with truck bedliner spray) are all totally water proof - an important feature here on the wet coast of B.C. This was the main reason for my departure from the basic achesalot design - that and the desire to have heat sink directly behind the LEDs (runs extremely cool as air flow is forced up through the bottom of the light due to the curvature of the front of my helmet).

    OK....the light is using Seoul P4s, but I am building an identical setup with a maxFlex and 3 MCEs as we speak. Can't wait to get out a blind a few more of my buddies.

    PS - how do you embedd images in your text!? I can't seem to make it work.

    Cheers

    That looks like a nice setup.

    You can upload the pics to www.photobucket.com or www.tinypic.com or another file hosting site. Then just copy paste the [IMG]...link
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  11. #11
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    kuksul08

    Thanks for your comment - the setup has evolved over time to its' current state - I have built 14 to date. You asked about water getting in. It's not a problem as I use low viscosity silicon sealer (for repairing leaks around windshields) when putting the housing together - just pour it in around the lens holders and put the housing together and the silicon flows to fill any holes. Allow to harden and wipe off any excess from the outside. The lexan cover is fixed in place using high strength two sided acrylic tape (for window glazing and bonding lexan panels) whichis very pliable and forms a water tight seal when placed properly.

  12. #12
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    That is pretty!


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