How should a MTb SPd shoe fit?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    CT3
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    How should a MTb SPd shoe fit?

    I am currently in possession of two pairs of shimano am45 SPd shoes. In 44 and 43 the 44 feels big. Have to tighten the laces super tight and there is About a 1.5cm between the front and my big toe. But they are comfortable to me fit like my skates shoes did. With the 43 they are snug very similar to how a snowboard boot should fit. But more uncomfortable I wouldn't wear them unless i had to. Also have problems with cleat placement when both are the same position of the shoes feels different with it on my feet and on the pedal. Is this common?

    One of the reason I went to the smaller shoes is because I didn't want the the shoe to only twist and not clip out.

    Do MTb shoes stretch in general and these specifically

    Wish shimano came In half sizes :/

  2. #2
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    dont know if those stretch but imo a bike shoe should fit like a running shoe. not flopping around but not too tight either. just snug enough while still being comfy.

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    Had a friend who wanted to “be one” with his pedals. He constantly complained about foot cramps and numb feet. While riding, I suggested he practice wiggling his toes for circulation. He told me he couldn’t wiggle his toes! When I found out he had larger feet than mine, but his mtb shoes were smaller than mine, I talked him into a new better fitting pair. Made all the difference in the world. Seems logical, but a good pair of mtb shoes should feel comfortable enough to wear to bed. Now I can’t keep up with him on the trail.
    2010 Trek Rumblefish
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul View Post
    dont know if those stretch but imo a bike shoe should fit like a running shoe. not flopping around but not too tight either. just snug enough while still being comfy.
    i dont know how to run so i wouldnt really know how a running shoe would properly fit hence the comparison to a snowboard boot. Running is super boring to me, its why i ride a bike. but i am starting to believe that i have small feet US 9/9.5 in length but have a slightly wide foot so i usually wear 9.5/10. i have decided to keep the 43 in hopes they stretch a little bit not that i need that much. i tried them on with no socks last night and there was ample room from the toe to the front (sitting on the ground toes up) i can imagine a thing so wouldnt change it much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CT3 View Post
    i dont know how to run so i wouldnt really know how a running shoe would properly fit hence the comparison to a snowboard boot. Running is super boring to me, its why i ride a bike. but i am starting to believe that i have small feet US 9/9.5 in length but have a slightly wide foot so i usually wear 9.5/10. i have decided to keep the 43 in hopes they stretch a little bit not that i need that much. i tried them on with no socks last night and there was ample room from the toe to the front (sitting on the ground toes up) i can imagine a thing so wouldnt change it much.
    I have a 9.5W in regular shoe (running, dress etc) and I've seen that wides are harder to come by in MTB shoes. I was really hoping Sette would have a wide shoe due to their extremely economical prices for a combo deal, however upon inquiry I was told they currently did not make wide.

    I've made the mistake in the past, before realizing i needed a wide, and got a size too big. thats not good.

    please post if/when you end up finding some shoes, I'm avidly looking for an economical solution.

  6. #6
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    They should fit like any other shoe with about a thumbs width between your big toe and the end of the shoe. The cleat position should be adjustable. Most people like the cleat to be right under the ball of their foot.

    Clipping out is not as hard as some people make it out to be. SPD shoes have a rigid sole, their not going to twist when you clip out.

  7. #7
    CT3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pleepleus View Post
    They should fit like any other shoe with about a thumbs width between your big toe and the end of the shoe. The cleat position should be adjustable. Most people like the cleat to be right under the ball of their foot.

    Clipping out is not as hard as some people make it out to be. SPD shoes have a rigid sole, their not going to twist when you clip out.

    I meant the upper bc it wasn't tight enough. Stuck with the 43 it's wide enough. But my
    Fit arent too wide where they require wide shoes just breaking in. I thought they were heavy well in comparison to dc skate but weigh the same as the xc shoes at about 20% cheaper. Shimano wise and I got them on sale
    Last edited by CT3; 08-02-2011 at 07:27 PM.

  8. #8
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    I just bought a pair of sh am45's also, I'm somewhere between 43 and 42, I erred with the 43's. In the past I've erred with the smaller and most shoes don't stretch but the uppers seem to shrink and/or stiffen up from repeated wet rides, down the road my toes start to go numb from being pinched. With only a couple rides the sm 45's seem really comfy with ample toe wiggle room without feeling too big. I do have to get the laces tightened just right without being too tight to prevent heel lift during hike a bike though, a little more tedious than adjusting straps on the outside. I don't understand your question about the cleats, but the soles are as stiff as XC shoes so "twisting" is not going to be an issue like a softer sole skate shoe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I just bought a pair of sh am45's also, I'm somewhere between 43 and 42, I erred with the 43's. In the past I've erred with the smaller and most shoes don't stretch but the uppers seem to shrink and/or stiffen up from repeated wet rides, down the road my toes start to go numb from being pinched. With only a couple rides the sm 45's seem really comfy with ample toe wiggle room without feeling too big. I do have to get the laces tightened just right without being too tight to prevent heel lift during hike a bike though, a little more tedious than adjusting straps on the outside. I don't understand your question about the cleats, but the soles are as stiff as XC shoes so "twisting" is not going to be an issue like a softer sole skate shoe.
    I was asking if it's common for cleat position to be a mirror of the shoes. Same place on both shoes

    ive read a couple of places that recomends the axle behind the ball foot, i tried that all though its nice when not pedaling but i always felt myself trying to pull my foot back.

    i currently have the cleat setup to where it the axle is in front the ball so pedal is where i would be if i was only on my toe and balls of my feet. but with this setup my left foot doesnt float/wiggle as loosely as my right which seems odd and bugs the hell out of me. (shimano m530 trail pedal) both cleats are in the measured exact position of each shoe
    Last edited by CT3; 08-03-2011 at 10:48 PM.

  10. #10
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    I prefer the cleats under the ball of the foot, both feet symmetrical. Like a lot of people I will get numbness and hot spots in the toes if the cleats are too far forward or back. If one shoe floats easier than the other are you sure the cleats are tight, or maybe the cleat socket needs a small amount of trimming?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I prefer the cleats under the ball of the foot, both feet symmetrical. Like a lot of people I will get numbness and hot spots in the toes if the cleats are too far forward or back. If one shoe floats easier than the other are you sure the cleats are tight, or maybe the cleat socket needs a small amount of trimming?
    could it be the pedal bc both float the same on a set of 520s. but have another pair of shoes on the 530s that are fine too. did the same the on the 44 size shoe.

    another question about placement i have them (cleat) as far inboard as possible to have the shoe as far away from the crank arm is that normal i am tempted to set them in the middle but dont want to move them bc i have them in decent position now and dont want to lose it if i dont like them in them middle

    i had a slight left knee problem after one ride but i think its gone now. also the foot giving me problems the right one seems dialed in

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CT3 View Post

    another question about placement i have them (cleat) as far inboard as possible to have the shoe as far away from the crank arm is that normal
    Ya, me too, the shoe too close to the cranks rubs the finish off (not that big a deal tho) and the rubber sole squeaking as it rubs the crank arm on a long hot summer climb is like mental torture when you're suffering.

  13. #13
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    LAKE shoes come in wide sizes

    Quote Originally Posted by Odii View Post
    I have a 9.5W in regular shoe (running, dress etc) and I've seen that wides are harder to come by in MTB shoes. I was really hoping Sette would have a wide shoe due to their extremely economical prices for a combo deal, however upon inquiry I was told they currently did not make wide.

    I've made the mistake in the past, before realizing i needed a wide, and got a size too big. thats not good.

    please post if/when you end up finding some shoes, I'm avidly looking for an economical solution.

    LAKE shoes come in wide sizes

  14. #14
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    Whats the biggest size the AM45's come in?

  15. #15
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    i believe 48

  16. #16
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    It's very important to have plenty of toe room up front. Some bike shoes fit fine standing there in the store, but your toe tips will start rubbing when riding, especially in technical terrain.
    I have long toes and need a shoe with a big "toe box".
    Stand tippy toe in them to get a better idea if you have enough toe room.
    Better yet if one is available, like at REI, go to an inclined plane that's used mostly to fit hikers. Face downhill and see if your toes are too close the the end of the shoe.
    Communist Party Member Since 1917.

  17. #17
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    I have read on here tha Northwave shoes are made wider than most other shoes. Haven't tried them thou.

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    Being that i just bought my shoes less than month ago and knowing cooler weather is coming I made sure my shoes had enough room for big thick winter socks. Sometimes we don't think about sock thickness when purchasing shoes in the middle of winter or summer, but this can effect comfort as well.

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    My MTB shoes are specialized comps which are pretty decent. But I have some sidi road shoes that fit my feet like a glove. The kind of fit where thicker socks would make them uncomfortable. The sidis give me a much more positive connection to the pedal, particularly on the back/up part of the pedal stroke. I can approximate that with the specialized shoes, but you have to crank down on the velcro straps and then they aren't quite as comfortable.

    For winter riding people around here recommend winter shoes that are a size or two larger than normal to allow for thick socks and/or heating pads. I have winter shoes (lakes) that are my actual size and they aren't that warm, next time I'll buy them a size larger. For the really cold snow rides I think I'll go with flat pedals and real winter boots this year.

  20. #20
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    I have always had the hardest time keeping my feet warm in the winter. I plan on doing alot more riding this winter, so I'm going to be trying alot of this as well...heating pads, toe warmers, thick socks, etc! It's the price you pay to ride year round!

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