Helmet light from SSC P7 Flashlight- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1

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    Helmet light from SSC P7 Flashlight

    Has anyone disassembled a flashlight and made it into a helmet light with taking apart the die and heatsink. I want to be able to still use the LED and REflector in the flashlight but also want to create a helmet light with an external battery pack.

    Specifically, I don't know how to connect the power cables to the LED/Heatsink spring.

    Edited to add, I actually have two p7 Trusfire, 3 mode Flashlights, that run from 1 18650 battery, although I bough 2 extras. I like to create a battery pack with all 4 batteries and power both lights from one switch. I'd like to have just a high low switch.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    If you have the lights apart then the spring is your positive. I used some wire snips and cut the spring. I then soldered a lead into the blob of solder that was holding the spring in place.

    The outer edge of the heatsink pill should have some solder on it as well. The whole outer edge is usually your negative. Find a nice little area where there is some excess solder and attach your negative lead there. If unsure then carefully touch some hot leads to these areas and see if the led lights up.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Keep the torch as it is, so you keep the modes intact, but drill a hole in the side of the body and poke some wires through, attach mini crocodile clips (with the plastic insulation on) and connect these to the springs, Normal size ones will fit perfectly so little stress is being put on the springs on a 1 x 18650 light. Just make sure your driver will accept whatever input you are using (battery)


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by moggy82
    Keep the torch as it is, so you keep the modes intact, but drill a hole in the side of the body and poke some wires through, attach mini crocodile clips (with the plastic insulation on) and connect these to the springs, Normal size ones will fit perfectly so little stress is being put on the springs on a 1 x 18650 light. Just make sure your driver will accept whatever input you are using (battery)


    I really like this idea to increase the runtime on the P7 lights. I am a noob to most of the bike lighting things though, so what battery could I use with this?

    I would be using this flashlight https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12060

    And I was thinking one of these two battery packs
    https://www.batteryspace.com/index.a...OD&ProdID=2013
    https://www.batteryspace.com/index.a...OD&ProdID=4071

    Also is the modification really as simple as drilling a hole in the side of the light and attaching the alligator clips to the springs?

    Thanks for the great idea!

  5. #5
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    Yep really is that simple.

    I found out that the driver you have is important, as my 5 mode memory one couldnt take the extra draw from multiple batteries. But a Cheap one from KD could, so i have swapped it over and it seems ok, just waiting for a 4 cell battery holder off rich now!

    The old 5 mode should be ok i believe. I wont be held responsible if you pop it though. Both those batteries look ok. Why not hold off for the 4 cell holder though. $20 for the batteries and $20 for the holder = 10000Ah = 4-5 hour runtime!!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by moggy82
    Yep really is that simple.

    I found out that the driver you have is important, as my 5 mode memory one couldnt take the extra draw from multiple batteries. But a Cheap one from KD could, so i have swapped it over and it seems ok, just waiting for a 4 cell battery holder off rich now!

    The old 5 mode should be ok i believe. I wont be held responsible if you pop it though. Both those batteries look ok. Why not hold off for the 4 cell holder though. $20 for the batteries and $20 for the holder = 10000Ah = 4-5 hour runtime!!
    Where will you get the 4 cell holder?

  7. #7
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    Off Richard , "turboferret" on this forum.

  8. #8
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    Thanks... I do recall seeing that now that you mention it. I'll look him up.

  9. #9
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    Please pardon my electrical ignorance in my question, but this thread got me to thinking. I run a pair of 801s on my bars and a P7 torch on my helmet. Each has its own 18650 battery. As I understand it, running a pair of batteries in parallel would effectively double the run time. That would be nice indeed. But, rather than three separate 2P battery sets, could all three be run from one in an 4P or 6P configuration? Would the different lights draw current differently and cause problems?
    $500 million for more irresponsible EBRPD land management? No thanks.
    www.noonmeasureww.org

  10. #10
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    Im sure you can only draw about 3amp from a 18650 at 3.7v And you would need to draw 4.8amp with your set up so would not be possible.
    Tbh though you should use two packs. As you dont really want a wire from you to your bike. A 4 pack to your tr801's and twin to the p7. Assuming you drop to med for the ups. This should give you 3 to 4 hours ride time.

    4 cell holders are soon to be available from turboferret.

  11. #11
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    I was going to buy the regulated P7 http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16092 but if I use the battery holder from turboferret and have more than enough runtime, do I need the regulated light. I prefer the looks of this one better, and it seems like it the smaller head would be better also http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12060

  12. #12
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    Dont get 16092 unless you plan to change the driver. This is great as a stan alone torch but the criver cannot cope with something when you put two batteries in series. I blew the driver on both of mine. Got one replaced and a new driver for the other, with a slightly wider voltage input and hope this does the trick. I have the 4 cell holder now, just need to put it all together, but unable to find my soldering iron so need to pop to maplin tomorrow and get one then i'll let you know tomorrow evening, unless im out riding!

  13. #13
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    New driver went in a dream, found out its low/med/high/strobe/sos. And has memory all for $4. Not bad. Probably not the best, but direct drive so minmal losses.

    Okm i finished my light using the croco clip method as posted above.

    For the test photos, its a standard P7 (16092) on the left. Very little in it, 590 lumens for the P7-D and 555 for the one off the battery, the difference i believe is down to the driver though.

    The new driver also has a med mode of about 275 lumens, whereas most low or med are <150L







    Chris

  14. #14
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    Awesome, thanks for the post and pics!

    Which driver did you buy?

  15. #15
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    $3.99 one off Kaidomain! doesn't get great reviewson there, i just wanted something as cheap as possible with input voltage slightly above 4.2V as i believed my origianal driver got over volted and blew. The new one is 4.5V max input and has been ok so far.

    This is a really easy way to get into DIY lights, although it really just modding a torch!

  16. #16
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    Looking good, Chris, hope my holder and pouch provide good service.

    Cheers, Rich

  17. #17
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    Moggy, your getting away with 4 because your driver is proper regulated, it's not just sucking up 4x's the load and popping like your other 1 did do.

    And also, with fresh batterys compared to fresh battery it's not much better, but if you do a study over time you'll likely see the 4 setup holds those Lumens as 4 batterys can easily supply 2.8ah's until there nearly dead, where as 1 drops to 1.4ah area over time.

    Shame my P7's got heat damage cause I'd get the driver and let you do the swap for me

  18. #18
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    Heres the spec for it, clearly not regulated, its just a direct correlation between voltage and current output. Obviously with 4 batteries should stay above 2.0A till well over 3 hours.

    - Accepts one Li-ion (e.g. 18650)
    - Direct drive P7 LED
    - 10% 45% 100%
    - High frenqency PWM
    - 17mm diameter PCB
    - Gold plated PCB for superior conductivity

    Dimension: Diameter 16-17mm*Height 4.5mm
    Input Voltage: 3.2-4.5V
    Output current: 100-3500mA
    Modes: High/Mid/Low/Strobe/SOS

    Testing CSX0I P7 LED
    Vin(V) Iout(A)
    4.1 3.3
    4.0 3
    3.9 2.9
    3.8 2.7
    3.7 2.3
    3.6 2
    3.5 1.7
    3.4 1.4
    3.3 1.2

    45% output on med will be useful though. Seems not too far off full to the naked eye!

  19. #19
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    Get one anyway Dyl, it might improve your light. PWM rather than resistors to adjust outputs, will improve economy

  20. #20
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    Turvey, I managed to trash the battery tube dissasembling one of my P7's, and don't see me every using the internals - if you want I can bung it in the post for you, assuming it's an MTE P7 and has the same internal threads.

    Cheers, Rich

  21. #21
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    moggy... do you have a link to the kaidomain driver? I can't seem to locate one for $3.99...

    EDIT: Of course, I spend about a half hour searching in vain, then post this and find it 5 seconds later...

    Is this it?
    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=1845

  22. #22
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    Thats the one, the reviews seem quite negative, but im perfectly happy with it. One of the few drivers that does low/med/high. And the output levels seem perfect, med and high both giving really usable light. My one also has memory.

    Using the 45% setting should give very usable light for about 2.5 hours on a single battery.

    When turnig the light on, low is low but then med is 9 times as bright so look a LOT brighter, then when switched to high its only twice as bright so doesn't seem that much brighter albeit the lumen output should be double.

  23. #23
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    Sweet. Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to "build" one or two of these with "turbo" remote power.

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