Sette Reken Build - first timer- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Sette Reken Build - first timer

    When I was young I had a walmart special mtn bike and never got into the sport. It wasn't until recently where I borrowed a friends GT aggressor and really took it out on some trails. After that I was hooked but being a student I have a limited budget. Alot of my friends from high school are still big into the sport so i turned to them for advice. After being unable to find what I wanted in my price range I decided to build up my own.

    This is a work in progress and hopefully should be done by the spring.

    * Frame: Sette Reken -Matte Black (18")
    * Fork: RockShox Domain 302 - 160mm U-TURN
    * Brakes:
    * Cranks: FSA Alpha
    * Rear Derailleur:
    * Pedals:
    * Stem: Truvativ Hussefelt 60mm
    * Handlebar: Marin 685mm with 1" rise (no frills)
    * Seatpost:
    * Saddle: Fi'zi:k Nisene
    * Bottom Bracket: FSA ISIS
    * Cassette:
    * Headset: Cane Creek S-1
    * Grips: Sette Type-S lock-on
    * Front Tire:
    * Front Rim:
    * Front Hub/Skewer:
    * Rear Tire:
    * Rear Rim:
    * Rear Hub/Skewer
    * Weight

    Here's the progress so far...






    Tell me what you guys think....
    Last edited by imaJEENYUS; 01-11-2011 at 03:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    That's alot of fork for that bike. Did you buy the fork from pricepoint as well?
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtailkid
    That's alot of fork for that bike. Did you buy the fork from pricepoint as well?
    Recommended Fork Travel 80mm-100mm
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/195...p=175%20SETRK9

  4. #4
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    That's what I'm trying to say. But with a more gentle approach.
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  5. #5
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    I got it from a friend for a deal. So either spend $200-300 for a 100mm fork or $60 for this fork...

    I'm looking for ideas and help. I don't need sarcastic undertones...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I got it from a friend for a deal. So either spend $200-300 for a 100mm fork or $60 for this fork...

    I'm looking for ideas and help. I don't need sarcastic undertones...
    they werent being sarcastic, its just your fork has too much travel for your frame... you have a xc frame, and you put a 160mm fork on it... itll ride like crap, and the HT runs the risk of snapping off...

    consider it a friendly warning

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marko G
    they werent being sarcastic, its just your fork has too much travel for your frame... you have a xc frame, and you put a 160mm fork on it... itll ride like crap, and the HT runs the risk of snapping off...

    consider it a friendly warning
    Yeah...I wasn't being sarcastic. None of us want you to breaking your frame and/or getting hurt with a fork like that. I just didn't want to barge into this thread and say you needed to spend $300+ on a fork that would fit. That is the harsh reality though... You will need a new fork. For a beginner-ish rider I would say a RockShox Tora or a Marzocchi 44 is a good option. Maybe a RockShox Recon Silver.
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  8. #8
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    i understand the HT angle is pretty slack...i think the pictures make it seem alot worse than it really is...I just want to do something different. Sorry if i sounded defensive before.

  9. #9
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    You're fine We all have our "moments." If you wanted to go with a bike like that, get the frame for it! Try to find a Ragley mmmBop. I see it two ways...
    1. You can keep the frame and spend $300 on a fork to fit it,
    2. You can keep the fork and buy a $300-$400 frame to fit it.

    I understand your being a student with little money. That's me right now. I'm a sophomore in high school.
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  10. #10
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    To keep it real low budget you could pick up a new Rockshox Dart 2......not a great performing fork but it will get the job done until you are ready to upgrade to a bigger, better bike

  11. #11
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    Ebay can be your friend I picked up a great condition fox float RL for about $180 I definatly wouldn't put that fork on you will snap that head tube in no time
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  12. #12
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    Don't ask for advice and then be mad when you don't get the information you want. We're actually just looking out for your well being. As others have said, you're on dangerous ground putting that fork on that frame. That frame isn't designed for and probably won't handle the added stress the really slack head angle and large fork will put on the headtube junction. It's all about leverage. I'm sure you're not concerned about warranty with your build (I'm not even sure what the warranty is on that frame), but any warranty is null and void using that fork, and for good reason. You risk literally snapping your headtube off. You can usually go 10, even 20mm above designed fork travel if the frame is burly enough (though at a significant change to geometry and handling), but going from 100 to 160 is crazy. Given that it's a discount frame to begin with, I'd be afraid to ride it with that fork. Keep in mind the geometry is going to be wacked. I haven't looked at the default geometry, but if my guess is right, with that fork it's going to be very difficult to pedal uphill on steep trails, and you're going to have a really high bottom bracket, making your handling pretty bad no matter how you set it up.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  13. #13
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    This should fix your fork issue...
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  14. #14
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    In his defense, the headtube on the reken is pretty strong and has big gussets, i have one. The domain can be lowered easily also with just a few custom shims and a hack saw.

    Lower it to 100 or 120 and ride the hell out of it.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Combatcm
    In his defense, the headtube on the reken is pretty strong and has big gussets, i have one. The domain can be lowered easily also with just a few custom shims and a hack saw.

    Lower it to 100 or 120 and ride the hell out of it.
    The bike...will be....40 pounds.
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonys
    Its still just the push of a button away...
    I am no longer a hardtailkid. 2012 Trek Remedy 9!

  16. #16
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    we're all friends here

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Combatcm
    In his defense, the headtube on the reken is pretty strong and has big gussets, i have one. The domain can be lowered easily also with just a few custom shims and a hack saw.

    Lower it to 100 or 120 and ride the hell out of it.

    Thank you...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardtailkid
    The bike...will be....40 pounds.
    It'll be heavy....not 40 heavy, maybe 32 built with budget parts.

    I have a 50lb DH bike, 35lb AM hardtail and a 28lb road bike.

    Light is nice, AM is more about just riding than racing.

  19. #19
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    Hey man, I know what it's like being a broke college student, gotta work with what you got. Don't worry about buying a new fork, lower what you have to around 100mil and be done with it. That way in time when you have a little extra cash and want to upgrade the frame, you could extend it back to full travel and have a good starting point. Check out this link for info on lowering your fork, it's pretty crude but it's a good start http://www.pinkbike.com/video/145515/ Good luck with the rest of your buildup. Pics when finished!

  20. #20
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    Not a good idea - at all - to put Domain on Reken. I have a Reken frame - with an old Manitou 100mm fork. It does its kid's trailer pulling duties. Its headtube is not strong enough, unlike what was stated in this thread. Not by a longshot. Domain can very much rip the head tube off. Even if you lower it, its a waste.

    If you want to use that fork - order On One 456 frame. 18inch. Glow in the dark color. $226.59 + $70 delivery from UK directly. Build Reken into a spare commuter.

    Better yet, if budget is tight - go to some place like bikesdirect, get something like their Cliff 29R hardtail - it is rather hard to make a comparable build for cheaper, even with some creative shopping.

  21. #21
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    My first reflex was also "too much fork"...

    But if its the u-turn, he can dial it down, should be okay. Won't be the lightest build, but will be solid. Loved mine.

    Used it as a high country single speed for just over a season, then switched the parts to a Sette Shadow dj frame. Wish I had started out with the Shadow, actually...







    *edit: My initial build was very budget... if you have time and shop carefully online, you can build a pretty sweet ride. If you get antsy, plan on running it as a single speed first, so you can at least get out and ride while you are saving for derail-shifter stuff. Good luck!
    Cool BandolArrow

    Jerry Hazard website

  22. #22
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    Hey jhazard how much does (did) your reken weigh as a rigid? What size is it and how tall are you? I bought a 20" and it was huge on me and im 6'.

    I was thinking about ordering a another reken and building it up with spare parts...my current reken has a stripped BB. I could use a good light climber

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Combatcm
    Hey jhazard how much does (did) your reken weigh as a rigid? What size is it and how tall are you? I bought a 20" and it was huge on me and im 6'.

    I was thinking about ordering a another reken and building it up with spare parts...my current reken has a stripped BB. I could use a good light climber
    I don't recall exactly around 26 or so...? But, I had heavy-ish components, plus fat 2.3 tires (well, fat at the time). It was heavier than expected, but much lighter than the old steel Barracuda I had built previously

    I stand at about 5' 8" - the frame was an 18 inch (center of bb to top of seatpost). I felt it was a bit on the large size as well - if I were to purchase another, I would go for the 16 inch.
    Cool BandolArrow

    Jerry Hazard website

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhazard
    Used it as a high country single speed for just over a season, then switched the parts to a Sette Shadow dj frame. Wish I had started out with the Shadow, actually...
    Initially I wanted the shadow but it only comes in 16" and being 5'11, I didn't it was the best all around option.

    My plan is to build this as a 1x9. I have been buying quality used parts from friends for cheap. However, my drivetrain from BB back will be all new parts. I'm not worrying about weight right now. Like it was said, when I get some more money I can always upgrade.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    Initially I wanted the shadow but it only comes in 16" and being 5'11, I didn't it was the best all around option.

    My plan is to build this as a 1x9. I have been buying quality used parts from friends for cheap. However, my drivetrain from BB back will be all new parts. I'm not worrying about weight right now. Like it was said, when I get some more money I can always upgrade.
    Save money on gears and get On One 456 frame. You will be much happier. I bet you could exchange Reken for a set of BB7 brakes (the way to go on a budget - and not).

  26. #26
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    ...
    Last edited by imaJEENYUS; 01-18-2011 at 06:04 PM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I will NOT be getting a new frame nor fork and for all you haters you can diaf
    Sooner or later you will with that fork you plan on running.

  28. #28
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    His name is perfectly fitting. This thread is full of fail.

    Coming from someone who had a similar frame and had a 130mm fork on it (for about 1 ride), this thing will ride like a floppy turd. 160mm and it will be unrideable. Might as well have bought a walmart bike...you will have better luck.

    People are trying to save you frustration...you are obviously too immature to handle criticism (even of the constructive variety). Enjoy your terrible ride.
    GG Smash

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    His name is perfectly fitting.
    Obviously you're not a golfer....stick to the subject not the name


    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    People are trying to save you frustration...you are obviously too immature to handle criticism (even of the constructive variety). Enjoy your terrible ride.
    I can handle constructive criticism, I just become annoyed when fanboys like you tell me it won't work. I may hate the way it rides but I might love the way it rides. It might snap the headtube off and I might get hurt. Everyone makes mistakes, thats how we learn. I posted this in hopes of support but it turns out this forum is just full of fanboys and haters. I appreciate all who encouraged and advised me.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    Obviously you're not a golfer....stick to the subject not the name




    I can handle constructive criticism, I just become annoyed when fanboys like you tell me it won't work. I may hate the way it rides but I might love the way it rides. It might snap the headtube off and I might get hurt. Everyone makes mistakes, thats how we learn. I posted this in hopes of support but it turns out this forum is just full of fanboys and haters. I appreciate all who encouraged and advised me.
    lol so you would rather make a mistake on your own and injure yourself than listen to the advice of people that know what they're talking about? Nobody is a fan boy, they are just telling you for your own good. Sell the fork, buy a smaller one, or dial down the travel to NO more than 120mm...

    and yes, you will hate the way it rides, itll have a turning circle of a tractor, and will be as responsive as a drunken camel...

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I just become annoyed when fanboys like you tell me it won't work. but it turns out this forum is just full of fanboys and haters.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I will NOT be getting a new frame nor fork and for all you haters you can diaf
    You came here and explicitly asked what we think. I think the suggestions had been quite respectful towards you.

    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I can handle constructive criticism, I just become annoyed when fanboys like you tell me it won't work.
    Most apparently you can not.

    Good luck.

  34. #34
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    Your problem is you think all these people trying to give you advice are wearing spandex with the seat in their ass. That isn't the case, this is AM most of these people aren't fanboys that stick to the mold. A lot of people like trying new things on this forum, like the kid welding a HT into a FS frame and hes like 14. But when someone tells you 160mm travel fork for a 100mm frame is too much, it is. So don't come in and flame people who are proven to know what they are talking about.

    Anyways, for the rest of your build what are you trying to accomplish? Are you trying to make it cheap or acquire part by part. Obviously we are going to tell you the most top of the line stuff to get. But for a beginner I can't see you needing much more than x7 drivetrain, some mechanical disk brakes, etc.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I will NOT be getting a new frame nor fork and for all you haters you can diaf
    Like others above, I hada Reken for a while. Very nice frame for the price. And agree that an On-One is a much better value - much more bike for the $. Safer. Injuries cost $$$.

    The Reken does have a very welded up head tube, free-ridey looking. But ultimately it has an XC tubeset and IMHO, that is where the danger comes in when over leveraging that frame with a way out of spec fork.

    Keep the fork.

    Order up the travel adjust spring (match it to your weight!) and travel adjust top cap. $40?
    (I think this is all you need for the conversion, experts chime in please)

    Run the fork at it's lowest travel setting; 115mm. And your done. DO NOT be tempted to increase travel, see injury cost above.

    And tell your buddy that sold you the fork to give you the axle as they are always sold with axles (or more $) or the deal is off and he can have his fork back.

    P

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfox90
    Anyways, for the rest of your build what are you trying to accomplish? Are you trying to make it cheap or acquire part by part. Obviously we are going to tell you the most top of the line stuff to get. But for a beginner I can't see you needing much more than x7 drivetrain, some mechanical disk brakes, etc.
    This is what I was looking for in the beginning. My initial goal was to build this bike so it can it all. I wanted to keep it as light as possible so I strayed from steel frames. Now, I realize that I should've gone with the steel. However, I will still build up this bike as I would have and when it breaks I will upgrade the frame to either an On-One or a blue pig and just switch over the components. I agree with you on drivetrain components but for the brakes, I only want to spend money once and after talking to a few people they say hydro is the way to go. Brakes/wheelset are the last thing on my mind right now since I'm looking at the azonic outlaws and they're $300 so these will be the last things I will buy. But for what I will be doing with the bike isn't insane. Mainly just riding in the valley(very rocky/rooty) maybe a few ladder bridges. No big jumps or drops until a steel frame for sure. I bought this frame for a few reasons. First, I've always ridden a hardtail so I thought it was fitting. Second, my friends told me that starting with a hardtail will make me a better rider since I will have to pick my lines carefully and not just "float" over the terrain. Lastly, the price was too good to pass up but I guess I should have gone steel. My problem was that I should have started from the fork and built backward. My initial plan was to get a tora but when offered the domain for a bargain I had to take it. Mind you, my friends who I will be righting with have $2000+ custom bikes so I just want to be able to keep up.

    Quote Originally Posted by MR.P
    Order up the travel adjust spring (match it to your weight!) and travel adjust top cap. $40? (I think this is all you need for the conversion, experts chime in please)
    This fork is the u-turn although I am uncertain of how low I can set it.

    Quote Originally Posted by MR.P
    And tell your buddy that sold you the fork to give you the axle as they are always sold with axles (or more $) or the deal is off and he can have his fork back.
    This fork has the "maxle"? he said. When he sold me the fork, his garage was dark and it was freezing out but said he would give it to me when he found it.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    This fork is the u-turn although I am uncertain of how low I can set it.
    Then your golden. Wind it down to it's lowest point = 115mm. And the fork will be good to go with the Reken. I ran my Reken for a year at 120mm.

    RS u-turn forks maintain spring rate as you lower it, so it will be fine to run at the lowest length.

    So far the bike looks great with the black, white & green. I'm liking it.

    Just a tip: if you had posted up it was a Uturn fork in your original post, you would not have gotten any negative feedback (they were actually helping you). So just be thorough in your initial post; what you have and what is your question, and you'll get great responses here.

    P

  38. #38
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    I would start by refinishing your kitchen table and chairs. Once that's complete please post up new pics and we can continue this stimulating dialogue.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    This is what I was looking for in the beginning. My initial goal was to build this bike so it can it all.
    Here is an example of two budget builds - that are standing closest to the door in my garage and are used more often then expensive toys hanging in the back. I am not talking about your frame and fork from some theoretical interwebz experience.

    What I was trying to suggest is that you would enjoy your ride much more if you follow one of the two - but not mixing and matching parts that are not made for each other (like short stem and steep frame, giant fork and XC frame).

    Build 1)
    Sette Reken frame
    Manitou Black coil fork. 100/80mm Lubed periodically - it works fine
    Some old LX cranks and shifter with v-brakes - some Avid v-brakes.
    Ritchey wheels - from ebay
    hand-me-down cassette and derailler
    Sette
    random bars, stem, saddle - 110mm stem
    old Schwalbe tires.
    Shimano clipless pedals.

    I grab this one for a spin on some fireroads.

    Build 2)
    Transition TransAm frame - more expensive rough equivalent of 456
    Sektor RL 150-110 u-turn fork - that replaced Domain equivalent $140 Spinner Cargo. Could not find service manual and replacement air seals for Cargo and said screw it.
    Nukeproof wheelset - $300 delivered, replaced $100 Deore/Singletracks wheelset, mostly for bling reasons.
    GXP single speed crank, replaced old dinglespeed Truvativ (two front rings, one rear cog - with Paul Melvin tensioner). 20t cog in the back with transitions tensioners. Cost of the drivetrain is about $150 now.
    BB7 brakes with Paul Love (bling) levers. Some Tekro levers will work the same. Could be found not much above $100 with cheap levers.
    Wellgo Mg-1 platforms.
    Random parts from a bucket. I have a magic bucket in my garage. You can always build a new bike out of it.

    I grab this one for the muddy season or for a ride with my son in iBert seat. Shiny part under the handlebars is iBert adapter. 90mm stem for iBert clearance - frame needs 70mm.

    The bike to the right is the one that you really want as a "Do-it- all"- Kona Coiler with Wotan, SLX/XT, Hope Hoops etc., but it did run me north of $2K even with some creative shopping. New Rotwild frame hanging next waiting to be build up. Mmm.. new bike.
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    Last edited by Broccoli; 01-06-2011 at 01:39 PM.

  40. #40
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    This is a question for those who have had a reken...

    I'm piecing together my drivetain and I've decided to use an ISIS drive. My question is what length BB do I need. What did you use? Keep in mind I'll be running a 32T up front with a bashguard...Also what length cranks did you use?

    Thanks

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    This is a question for those who have had a reken...

    I'm piecing together my drivetain and I've decided to use an ISIS drive. My question is what length BB do I need. What did you use? Keep in mind I'll be running a 32T up front with a bashguard...Also what length cranks did you use?

    Thanks
    dont get isis. get external, much better. 175mm cranks, if you're going 1x9 you will need some form of a guide, whether it be a jump stop or bash sandwich or g2.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    dont get isis. get external, much better. 175mm cranks, if you're going 1x9 you will need some form of a guide, whether it be a jump stop or bash sandwich or g2.
    any reason why not to go the isis route? Remember this is a budget build. Are you sure with 175mm cranks? seems close with the werid chainstay?

    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    This is a question for those who have had a reken...

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    any reason why not to go the isis route? Remember this is a budget build. Are you sure with 175mm cranks? seems close with the werid chainstay?
    cuz external is far better, for little or no more money. and yes get 175.

  44. #44
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    isis is fine but slowly fading away, external is the current newest and greatest. You wont really feel a difference on the bike between the two but the external will lend itself to easier maintenance. Cranks are a part of your budget build you could easily find used and really cheap, probably going to be square or isis if they're more than a few years old.

  45. #45
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    Here is the crank: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx

    I think you would be hard pressed in justifying not purchasing the LX cranks at that price.

    Here is a good lead on some brakes and a rear der.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Brakes+Oe.aspx

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...erailleur.aspx

  46. #46
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    Whats the advantage to the LX cranks over the cheaper deore?
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...s+W+Bb+Oe.aspx

  47. #47
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bengxe
    Whats the advantage to the LX cranks over the cheaper deore?
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...s+W+Bb+Oe.aspx
    Weight, mostly through chainring material.
    Axle Standards Explained

    Founder at North Atlantic Dirt, riding & writing about trails in the northeast.

  48. #48
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    Not much. I think the LX has the hollow arms and the deore does not. Either one would be a great buy.

  49. #49
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    I went with the FSA alpha drive with isis bb...

  50. #50
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    Just curious why you ask for help on the internet only to defy anything that anyone tells you?
    Whats this line for?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronabrandt
    Just curious why you ask for help on the internet only to defy anything that anyone tells you?
    how dare you question a jeenyus...
    Quote Originally Posted by vBulletin
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  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronabrandt
    Just curious why you ask for help on the internet only to defy anything that anyone tells you?
    I just want to get a feeling of people who have done similar budget builds to talk about their setups and why they particularly did it that way. I wasn't looking for people to bash everything in my build. There's not alot of specific info on reken builds(at least what I found) so I just wanted to get a jumping point. Of course I'm not going to see eye to eye with everyone and just take their advise blindly. If someone, like a few in this thread, lend advice and then back that advice up with info or personal experience then I am more willing to take them seriously. I don't care if they are in middle school or in a seniors' home, if you know your **** say it and then explain it. I am appreciative to those who have done this already.

    Plus if everyone did the same thing we'd all be riding the same bike.

  53. #53
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    I used to ride a Giant Iguana Disc.

    Looking at the geometry of the Reken which almost identical to the Iguana, the HTA (80~100mm fork) is at 70.5 degrees and the STA is at 73.5 degrees. Assuming that a 20mm increase in fork length will slacken the HTA by 1 degree, you'll ended up at approximately 67 degrees. The STA will also be slacken by 3 degrees at 70.

    Chainstay length is quite middle of the ball park at 16.7"

    With the stock fork, it's at 80mm, but the A2C length is the same with my upgraded fork at 100mm. I did have it at 120mm for a while before going to 140mm.

    I also did change to a 50mm stem with wider bars.

    Well, it did ride ok with no weird handling characteristics and does give me more confidence in going down.

    On uphill, it did suffer though. But a change in riding posture and style did compensate enough for me to keep the front end in check.

    One point notice is that when riding my bike I need to keep the front end weighted at all times (more aggresive stance). Since the frame's meant for a much shorter fork, by using a longer fork, it really did unweighted the front end. So care must be taken to avoid washing out in corners.

    I did not run it long enough for long term durability test though.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I just want to get a feeling of people who have done similar budget builds to talk about their setups and why they particularly did it that way. I wasn't looking for people to bash everything in my build. There's not alot of specific info on reken builds(at least what I found) so I just wanted to get a jumping point. Of course I'm not going to see eye to eye with everyone and just take their advise blindly. If someone, like a few in this thread, lend advice and then back that advice up with info or personal experience then I am more willing to take them seriously. I don't care if they are in middle school or in a seniors' home, if you know your **** say it and then explain it. I am appreciative to those who have done this already.

    Plus if everyone did the same thing we'd all be riding the same bike.
    No...you wanted to hear what you wanted to hear. When we didn't say it you became upset. When someone says what you want to hear you listen to it.

    Coming from someone who has overforked a hard-tail before...your ride is going to blow and we will see a thread in a few weeks on which new fork to buy. We tried to save you time.
    GG Smash

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    Coming from someone who has overforked a hard-tail before...your ride is going to blow and we will see a thread in a few weeks on which new fork to buy. We tried to save you time.
    As he is in the AM forum, he would be wanting to buy a new frame, not fork - which one was already mentioned, and it is an easy choice. Yes, we wanted to save time, as selling a brand new frame is much easier. But, on the other hand, who cares?

    https://forums.mtbr.com/downhill-freeride/massive-dual-crown-hardtail-490047.html - for inspiration.




  56. #56
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    What? A 40 on a STP is over forked? Whatever dude.

  57. #57
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    This is my favorite thread.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    Coming from someone who has overforked a hard-tail before...your ride is going to blow and we will see a thread in a few weeks on which new fork to buy. We tried to save you time.

    At which point I hope you'd say "I told you so" but until then....

    I'm not on here to fight over the internet...I came here to bounce ideas around. Isn't that why communities like us have these forums?

  59. #59
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    There's a right way and a wrong way to ask a question. There's also a right way and a wrong way to respond to the advice you're given. Being that you said you're a student, I'll chalk it up to you being young and not getting it yet, though I was far more respectful when I was younger personally.

    Bottom line, if you know everything, don't bother asking for advice. You'd be wise to listen to a lot of the people in this thread though. I know that many of them know a lot about bikes. They're not just blowing smoke. They're just trying to help you and you were a d-bag to them. I was even going to offer to send you some spare parts I had laying around for free to help you get your build off the ground, but after seeing your replies it's not worth my time.

    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I will NOT be getting a new frame nor fork and for all you haters you can diaf
    Way to not fight on the internet. That's not confrontational at all, is it? Apparently we all deserve to "die in a fire" for giving advice. Such terrible people we must be.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    I'm not on here to fight over the internet...I came here to bounce ideas around. Isn't that why communities like us have these forums?
    Which is exactly what everyone has been doing. Well...had been doing until you decided to get wayyy too defensive.

    I don't see how any of the advice offered to you could be construed as "hating" or "bashing" on your idea. It was simply advice coming from far more experienced people...perhaps in a blunt fashion...but that is not "hating," that is "life."

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcrockymountainrider
    I would start by refinishing your kitchen table and chairs. Once that's complete please post up new pics and we can continue this stimulating dialogue.
    Now THAT'S what I call "jeenyus!"

    Seriously, though...

  62. #62
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    wound down i say the domain wont cause any problems on his frame but the op has acted like an idiot. you didnt bounce ideas around; you said what you said as if it were absolute and told anyone who (rightly) differed with your opinion to f*** off.

  63. #63
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    What's that song by Prince "When Newbs Cry"?

  64. #64
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    <iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lqqVgXPclsE" frameborder="0"></iframe>
    Last edited by Nenbran; 01-12-2011 at 01:05 PM.

  65. #65
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    I can't wait til this kid wins his first super d race on this rig! Screw the naysayers, this forum turns into a bunch a dicks in the winter when the trails are covered in snow, myself included.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by missoularider
    I can't wait til this kid wins his first super d race on this rig! Screw the naysayers, this forum turns into a bunch a dicks in the winter when the trails are covered in snow, myself included.
    Riding around with a wound down fork is one thing. It will work just fine. Racing it at a warp speed is a not so bright idea. I hope you gave an advice to enter a Super-D race on an overforked XC frame as a rhetorical exaggeration.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by imaJEENYUS
    At which point I hope you'd say "I told you so" but until then....

    I'm not on here to fight over the internet...I came here to bounce ideas around. Isn't that why communities like us have these forums?
    man, you're kinda stupid if you'd rather learn the hard way than the easy way

  68. #68
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    Yes Curmy, it was an exaggeration, but you did a good job of proving my point. All these guys jumping on the guy trying to build a budget hardtail like he called their girlfriend a fat whore. Pretty funny really. The fact that this thread and that other one about brown grips have like 50 reply's shows mountain bikers start to go crazy in the winter.

  69. #69
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    I just read this board cuz i'm lonely, and its cold and gray outside. A sad substitute for a ride.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by missoularider
    Yes Curmy, it was an exaggeration, but you did a good job of proving my point. All these guys jumping on the guy trying to build a budget hardtail like he called their girlfriend a fat whore. Pretty funny really. The fact that this thread and that other one about brown grips have like 50 reply's shows mountain bikers start to go crazy in the winter.
    haahahahaa! I saw that brown grip brown seat thread. Wtf is that? p.s. your girlfriend is a fat whore.

  71. #71
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  72. #72
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    I'm so stangry...

    I'm in a Hot Karl kinda mood...

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by missoularider
    Yes Curmy, it was an exaggeration, but you did a good job of proving my point. All these guys jumping on the guy trying to build a budget hardtail like he called their girlfriend a fat whore. Pretty funny really. The fact that this thread and that other one about brown grips have like 50 reply's shows mountain bikers start to go crazy in the winter.
    1. I would not call that making a point.
    2. I can not stretch my imagination far enough to equate a suggestion to get a On One 456 frame and BB7 brakes for a budget hardtail build with making allegations of promiscuity and bad eating habits of one's female companion.
    3. It was 60 degree Fahrenheit outside, with nice tacky trails within 15 minute drive from my office.


  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    3. It was 60 degree Fahrenheit outside, with nice tacky trails within 15 minute drive from my office.

    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  75. #75
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    I built my wife a 16" Reken about a year and half ago for her birthday. I used mostly stuff I had around and tried to keep purchases to a minimum. I can't say it ended up being cheaper than buying a bottom of the line Hardrock, but it was certainly more fun. Among the odds & ends my main components were as follows:

    Shifters: Shimano Deore SL-M510 (off my 2001 Enduro Expert HT)
    Front Der.: Shimano Deore FD-M510 (off an earlier build)
    Rear Der.: Shimano Deore RD-M510 (off an earlier build)
    Brakes: Avid BB7 F/R 6"
    Levers: Avid Speed 5
    Crankset: Specialized Strongarm 2 (175) (off my 2001 Enduro Expert HT)
    BB: Shimano BB-UN52 (off my 2001 Enduro Expert HT)
    Forks: Rock Shox Dart 2
    Headset: Chris King (off a junker I inherited...the only thing worth a cent on that bike.)
    Stem: Jamis 105mm 10 degree rise on top of 30mm of spacers (off an earlier build)
    Rims/Hubs: Mavic 223/Specialized Stout (off my 2001 Enduro Expert HT)
    Cables: Gore Ride-on and Jagwire mix

    I can't recall the other bits right now, but it's stable and a load of fun to ride. I'd never ridden mechanical disc brakes before and I am impressed with these BB7s. Still, I'm thinking about pulling my HFX Mag XCs (pre 9s) and putting them on my wife's bike...and upgrading my brakes....I need to justify it somehow. But that will have to wait until I finish a new road build.


  76. #76
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    I had a reken, bought, built, sold.

    Fork: I had the 16" with 80-120mm u-turn Rock Shox. The ONLY time the fork was on 120 was if I was riding a downhill trail. You will notice when you're on flat or ascending trails that you will have to put a lot of effort into turning because the fork is too big. Another thing I noticed was even with my fork the front end was double the weight of the rear. The 120mm fork I had was even too heavy for this frame. The rear is pretty light.

    I had a Shimano ISIS bb and it was quite flexy. Something I do not think you will appreciate with a 160mm fork. The External bbs are stronger/stiffer.

    I initially had it geared (~28.5lbs) than went the ss route than sold the rig except for the bb7 set up and bought a 29er ss. Let alone how the bike will "feel" with the bigger fork on the trail it will be very unbalanced and you may have issues controlling the bike. Anyway, got any questions feel free to PM me.
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