RockShox Reba Problems- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    "That's what." -She
    Reputation: nathan_van's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    33

    RockShox Reba Problems

    Hello mtbr,

    I have a 2011 RockShox Reba RLT 29, came off of my Specialized Stumpjumper. Specialized website labels it as:

    RockShox Reba RLT 29 for Specialized, air spring, alloy tapered steerer, 45mm offset, compression and rebound adj., LO w/external floodgate adj., 20mm Maxle SL, 130mm of travel

    Link to my full bike specs if it helps (2011 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert 29):

    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/st...t-29er/p/23342

    I am having a couple of issues with my fork. The first problem is I need to jack up the PSI to 120 plus to use all 5 inches of travel, and for me being a light person, 120 is a little much. Problem number two is there are 2 valve caps, one noted with a (+) on the top, and one noted with a (-) on the bottom. (On the riders left side lowers). When I release the valve on the bottom, weird green slime comes out, and when I release from the top, the air smells truly horrible.

    Anybody have the same issues, thoughts on how I should go forward, just get a new fork since it's so old??? Let me know what you all think. Thanks!
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away, and you have their shoes too.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    12,743
    You can get a new fork. I wouldn't get a Reba as it isn't dual air anymore. You can do a full service upper and lower. Youtube has videos to watch. Rockshox has service instruction docs at the bottom of their website. You can send it in for service. Since you've owned from new you know its service history. You can look at bikes. They'll come with new forks.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    Give it service to freshen it up. That's a dual air fork which IMPO was a better design than the solo air. The +air port is pos pressure and the -air port is negative pressure. The + supports your weight and is what you use to set sag. The - gets the fork moving in its travel sooner giving that plush feeling you're looking for. Setting pressure on those forks can be a little tricky at first but once you start to understand it they work really well and are very tunable I had a 2012 Revelation Dual Air that I liked a lot. The fork legs have recommended +and- pressures on the fork leg. They usually recommend 10psi more in the neg air side than the pos. The tricky thing with these forks is that you can't just check your pos pressure and add air without it having an effect on neg pressure and vice versa. Anytime you mess with the air pressure on this fork you need to release all the neg pressure and basically start from scratch. You start by setting your sag in the pos side with whatever you need for your weight once you've done that you can then air the neg side. When I had my Revelation I found that the best way to get the best feel from the fork was to only add enough air in the neg side to start the lower legs to move up the stanchion just a little bit. Air up the pos side to get the amount of sag you want and then when airing the neg side watch the wiper seal on the lower legs as soon as you see it start to move stop and you're good. The not being able to get all 5" of travel sounds like you have too much neg pressure causing you to increase the pos pressure giving you too firm of a setting.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  4. #4
    Bicyclochondriac.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    13,758
    Clearly something is leaking, and with an 8 year old fork that is not surprising if it is still on its original seals.

    A full rebuild on these forks is very easy to do. A complete rebuild kit with all the seals, o-rings, crush washers, etc you need runs ~$25.

    The only special tools you need are snap ring pliers, and a 24mm socket is nice for the top-caps, though a crescent wrench will do.

    If you canít do this, someone else surely can.

    You donít need a new fork.

    I am not sure I am following why you have to INCREASE the pressure to get full travel.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  5. #5
    "That's what." -She
    Reputation: nathan_van's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Clearly something is leaking, and with an 8 year old fork that is not surprising if it is still on its original seals.

    A full rebuild on these forks is very easy to do. A complete rebuild kit with all the seals, o-rings, crush washers, etc you need runs ~$25.

    The only special tools you need are snap ring pliers, and a 24mm socket is nice for the top-caps, though a crescent wrench will do.

    If you canít do this, someone else surely can.

    You donít need a new fork.

    I am not sure I am following why you have to INCREASE the pressure to get full travel.
    Ya know, I wish I knew. I usually run the pressure around 100ish depending on the trail, and when I had the PSI set to that I measured the sanction length with my dial calipers and it was reading a little bit more than 4 inches, which I know is not 130mm. When I pumped it up to 120 it extended further and it got to the 5 inches, 130mm.
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away, and you have their shoes too.

  6. #6
    "That's what." -She
    Reputation: nathan_van's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    Give it service to freshen it up. That's a dual air fork which IMPO was a better design than the solo air. The +air port is pos pressure and the -air port is negative pressure. The + supports your weight and is what you use to set sag. The - gets the fork moving in its travel sooner giving that plush feeling you're looking for. Setting pressure on those forks can be a little tricky at first but once you start to understand it they work really well and are very tunable I had a 2012 Revelation Dual Air that I liked a lot. The fork legs have recommended +and- pressures on the fork leg. They usually recommend 10psi more in the neg air side than the pos. The tricky thing with these forks is that you can't just check your pos pressure and add air without it having an effect on neg pressure and vice versa. Anytime you mess with the air pressure on this fork you need to release all the neg pressure and basically start from scratch. You start by setting your sag in the pos side with whatever you need for your weight once you've done that you can then air the neg side. When I had my Revelation I found that the best way to get the best feel from the fork was to only add enough air in the neg side to start the lower legs to move up the stanchion just a little bit. Air up the pos side to get the amount of sag you want and then when airing the neg side watch the wiper seal on the lower legs as soon as you see it start to move stop and you're good. The not being able to get all 5" of travel sounds like you have too much neg pressure causing you to increase the pos pressure giving you too firm of a setting.
    This is awesome advice, thank you. What do you think I do with the green slime, ooze, horrible smelling, crap that comes out of the neg valve when I release it?
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away, and you have their shoes too.

  7. #7
    Bicyclochondriac.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    13,758
    Quote Originally Posted by nathan_van View Post
    Ya know, I wish I knew. I usually run the pressure around 100ish depending on the trail, and when I had the PSI set to that I measured the sanction length with my dial calipers and it was reading a little bit more than 4 inches, which I know is not 130mm. When I pumped it up to 120 it extended further and it got to the 5 inches, 130mm.
    OK that makes sense. It simply not EXTENDING fully. So that means you probably have too much air (or maybe even some fluid) in the negative air chamber.

    There are a few possible underlying causes for the problem, a rebuild will take care of all of them that I can think of.

    The only reason I would think twice about investing in a rebuild would be if the fork has developed play in the bushings in the lowers. That can be tested easily enough with the fork still on the bike (google / search for that).
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    Quote Originally Posted by nathan_van View Post
    This is awesome advice, thank you. What do you think I do with the green slime, ooze, horrible smelling, crap that comes out of the neg valve when I release it?
    Like kapusta said check for excessive bushing wear. If there is no play a rebuild should do the trick. It's pretty easy to do if you have some mechanical ability. The fact that adding air to the pos side extended the fork to full extension means you have too much air in the neg side. The green slime is probably just really old fork oil especially if the fork has never been serviced. The lower legs get about 5-10cc's of oil for lubrication. When you disassemble it for service just check to make sure there is no internal corrosion anywhere clean everything really well and follow service procedures fork should be like new then.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  9. #9
    "That's what." -She
    Reputation: nathan_van's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    Like kapusta said check for excessive bushing wear. If there is no play a rebuild should do the trick. It's pretty easy to do if you have some mechanical ability. The fact that adding air to the pos side extended the fork to full extension means you have too much air in the neg side. The green slime is probably just really old fork oil especially if the fork has never been serviced. The lower legs get about 5-10cc's of oil for lubrication. When you disassemble it for service just check to make sure there is no internal corrosion anywhere clean everything really well and follow service procedures fork should be like new then.
    So another issue with the fork that I don't think has anything to do with the slime or compression issues, is the spacing is 20x110, however the lowers have been pinched in to 108, and I need to kinda pry the lowers apart to fit my wheel. With that in mind, would it be worth it to invest in a new fork or try to rebuilt it myself. And I personally have never rebuilt a fork, but I am sure YouTube could come in handy...
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way you're a mile away, and you have their shoes too.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,741
    Not using all the travel is not an issue. If the fork is set to the correct air for your weight and you ride a canal path you won't use any travel but it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the fork?

    I've never seen anyone complain about the inside of their fork being too smelly before. Congratulations :0) I would service the fork. Not because it is smelly but because if you haven't done it before it almost certainly needs doing.

    It is actually quite easy if you are mechanically minded, generally good at taking stuff apart and putting it back together. If that's not the kind of person you are then forget it. Pay a shop to do it.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    Quote Originally Posted by nathan_van View Post
    So another issue with the fork that I don't think has anything to do with the slime or compression issues, is the spacing is 20x110, however the lowers have been pinched in to 108, and I need to kinda pry the lowers apart to fit my wheel. With that in mind, would it be worth it to invest in a new fork or try to rebuilt it myself. And I personally have never rebuilt a fork, but I am sure YouTube could come in handy...
    Is your Reba 32mm stanchions? If so I have a set of lower legs from my old Revelation that are 20mm axle I'd be willing to part with if you need. They're probably the same lowers. These lowers have very low hours on them and have new wiper seals and foam rings.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,741
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    Is your Reba 32mm stanchions? If so I have a set of lower legs from my old Revelation that are 20mm axle I'd be willing to part with if you need. They're probably the same lowers.
    Rockshox used the same lowers widely across their ranges. Even if they are not the same lowers they will almost certainly fit. But are the Revs 29?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Rockshox used the same lowers widely across their ranges. Even if they are not the same lowers they will almost certainly fit. But are the Revs 29?
    Yep 29r
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    [QUOTE=Mr Pig;14035808]Not using all the travel is not an issue. If the fork is set to the correct air for your weight and you ride a canal path you won't use any travel but it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the fork?

    I don't think he's talking about useable travel. I think he's saying the stanchion isn't showing full travel. Which would be an example of too much air in the neg chamber. The dual air baffled me for a little bit but once I had it figured out I liked it. Formula has a fork now that is dual air. I think a lot of people struggled with the dual air concept and that's why Rockshox went to Solo Air to simplify it for the masses. I personally hate the SoloAir design especially the feature that allows air to migrate into the lower legs.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    10,741
    [QUOTE=Rngspnr;14035950]
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    I think a lot of people struggled with the dual air concept and that's why Rockshox went to Solo Air to simplify it for the masses.
    I think it was probably cheaper to make.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    777
    [QUOTE=Mr Pig;14035965]
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post

    I think it was probably cheaper to make.
    Yeah. That too.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

Similar Threads

  1. RockShox Reba RL vs. RockShox Recon Silver TK
    By jkrispies in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-05-2012, 06:57 PM
  2. 200mm cranks,drive problems,endow problems
    By Realslowww in forum Clydesdales/Tall Riders
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-19-2011, 04:11 PM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-15-2011, 08:27 AM
  4. 05 Rockshox Reba Race vs 06 Rockshox Reba Race
    By VERT1 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-24-2007, 05:29 AM
  5. Problems, Problems Please Help!
    By MTB_Sam in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 06-28-2004, 10:47 AM

Members who have read this thread: 49

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.