Tektro Auriga's still no bueno!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Tektro Auriga's still no bueno!

    I will start off my saying that I love my bike and knew what type of brakes I was getting when I bought a $600 bike. (Guardian 2.0)

    So, I'm really asking for advice/help rather than ragging on an entry level brake system.

    The long and short.

    Got hydro fluid on pads rendering them useless. Came on here and got advice to switch them out. Problem solved.

    We've had a wet summer so riding has been sparse.......

    I tell you that to tell you this.....

    I have maybe 10 rides on the new pads. Semi-Metallic from TruckerCo on Amazon.
    Started off good, but slowly went to crap in 10 rides.
    I live in Kansas City, so nothing crazy. I don't ride downhill where I'm on the levers and glazing the pads.

    With that being said, I pulled the pads, sanded them and the rotors and went for a ride. Started off good, but by the end of a 5 mile ride, they were howling and not stopping like I think they should.

    My questions.....
    Are they just not that good and I should live with this until I can afford an upgrade?

    Is there some source that can tell me how to truly dial in my brakes?
    Should I buy pads with a different compound?

    Any advice is welcomed! Thanks!
    Brian
    www.getbusylivin.org
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by FirefighterMTN View Post
    I pulled the pads, sanded them and the rotors and went for a ride.
    hey Brian, I don't think sanding the rotors was a good idea, same with the pads imo.

    I've used brake pads from truckers on one of my bikes and a friends bike without issue.

    What kind of noises are you getting? is it all the time? light braking/hard braking? Are you a heavy guy like me? ( heavier you are, the more force it takes to stop )

    Mine occasionally make noise while on a ride from dirt and such, I clean them with Dawn dish detergent and noise gone until they get dirty again. ( also check to make sure all is tight ( rotor bolts too )

    As far as replacing anything, I would replace the pads and rotors before replacing the calipers, you can find Sram Avid Rotors cheap on Amazon.

    I have Avid Elixir1's on all three of my bikes, two others I ride with have the same, you can get a whole set up front and rear calipers with rotors and screws for only $90 on Amazon.

    Hope that helps
    Just a dude being a dude in the woods & Owner of Newark Bike Shop an authorized Diamondback Dealer.

    My personal bikes:
    Airborne Seeker
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  3. #3
    cmg
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPanaccione View Post

    I have Avid Elixir1's on all three of my bikes, two others I ride with have the same, you can get a whole set up front and rear calipers with rotors and screws for only $90 on Amazon.

    Hope that helps
    In which case ld go Shimano SLX for probably 10bucks more and be done with it

    or

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=966004

    but l would never recommend Avids to anyone (dont mean to offend)
    always mad and usually drunk......

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    In which case ld go Shimano SLX for probably 10bucks more and be done with it

    or

    XT brakes at Ribble $126.97- Mtbr.com

    but l would never recommend Avids to anyone (dont mean to offend)
    lol, no offense taken. A lot of ppl have issues with Avids, I haven't had a single problem that I can complain about, and having them on three bikes and friends that have them on theirs without any problems I feel completely comfortable suggesting them, either way.. to each his own lol
    Just a dude being a dude in the woods & Owner of Newark Bike Shop an authorized Diamondback Dealer.

    My personal bikes:
    Airborne Seeker
    Airborne HobGoblin
    Airborne Goblin
    Airborne Toxin
    Diamondback Insight ( on the trainer )
    Evo Vantage 7.0

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    In which case ld go Shimano SLX for probably 10bucks more and be done with it
    ^^+1^^

    Switched to SLX brakes last year with Trucker metallics - no noise, and great stopping power.

  6. #6
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    Firefighter, I'm from KC too. Same name on earthriders. If you go to the BURP ride on Wednesday, probably get some more local comments on pad selection.

    I've had some issues riding SMP when it dries up where dust gets on my brakes (BB7). Start to squeel and don't feel as good as when they started. It's usually temporary and once I'm on the brakes for about 5-10 seconds, it goes away. Problem is, how often are you on the brakes for longer than 5-10 seconds around here. Good way to test this is just some simple road riding. Riding along tomahawk creek or indian creek asphalt will give you a good idea if it's trail dust or not.

    Even doing the sanding/cleaning of the brake rotors and pads, after 10 rides, they're probably bedding fine. Hydraulic doesn't require pad adjustment, so the next question is caliper alignment. If the alignment seems fine, maybe a bad seal on the calipers leaking a tiny bit of fluid onto the pads. Should be easy to identify with oily dust residue visible on the calipers.

  7. #7
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    I would check for leaks at the caliper. What is the lever pressure feel like? Has it changed over time or does it change on a ride?

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  8. #8
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    Since we're talking about swapping out the brakes... Another option is entry level Shimanos M355 at only $49. The only caveat is that they're "euro/moto style", meaning you'll want to reverse the right and left levers, not too difficult.
    Shimano BR BL M355 MTB Bike Hydraulic Disc Brake Set Front Rear Sports New | eBay

  9. #9
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    FWIW, I wasn't really impressed with the stock brakes on my Guardian (they were "OK" but not great), so I did some reading and got a set of EBC Green Stuff pads. I don't have a ton of miles on them, but they are AWESOME in performance and feel, and they were like $20 or so!

    Mike

  10. #10
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    Wow, thanks for all the comments and advice!! Also, sorry the late reply. Too many jobs!!

    JPan-- My bad!! I really thought that would do the trick on account that last time I had problems it was contaminants.

    I would say I'm on the heavier side, 195lbs, but I'm not on the brakes a lot. We do have some hilly trails around these parts, but nothing that I'm on the levers too much.

    Watts- Hello from PV! The dust does sound like it could be the culprit, but it's constant through the whole ride, even at the beginning.
    The more I think about it, it's not so much the noise (loud howling at the end of a long, hard stop) as the lack of stopping power.
    I know this is not a good comparison, but I was Trestle 3 weeks ago and rode a very nicely equipped Specialized Demo and that sucker stopped on a dime with little lever pressure. I have to friggin squeeze my levers like I'm pissed to get it to stop!

    Most of the time, I can still pedal the bike with the rear brakes engaged!

    I've bled them, no change.

    Could my levers be out of adjustment. I say that on account the brakes will work, but it takes a hell of a squeeze!!

    I will look into some upgrades, but would really like these stock ones to be a little bit better or work properly for that matter.

    Big Daddy-- The levers feel like they have a lot of travel. I've only had experience with BB7's, but I remember them only needing minimal pull to get the bike to stop. These feel like I'm almost touching the bars if I really need to stop quick.

    None the less, thanks again everyone. I hopefully I've made a little sense as to what my problem is.
    www.getbusylivin.org
    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
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  11. #11
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    You probably need to bleed them.

    How did you get brake fluid on your pads? Shortening hoses? If so, you probably still have air in the lines.

    Lightly sanding your pads is not a bad thing. In fact, it is actually what you are supposed to do to remove impurities, but it doesn't really work with removing oil.

    What I would do from here:

    Remove your brake pads and lightly sand them and clean them with brake parts cleaner.

    Bleed your brakes

    Reinstall the pads and go for a ride strictly to bed in the brakes.

    Get up to about 15mph on a road and hit the brakes firmly. Don't lock them up, but don't lightly drag them either. Hold the brakes until you are almost stopped then speed back up and do it again. Do that about 20 times. It'll be a good workout. lol

  12. #12
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    Oops, just saw that you've bled them with no change... Try the bedding in procedure then without the bleed and see what you get.

  13. #13
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    The thing that caught my eye was, "These feel like I'm almost touching the bars if I really need to stop quick. " If you have that much lever pull, it sounds like either a bleeding issue with air traped somewhere, the line is expanding and ready to blow, or the lever/caliper needs serviced. If you've had them a while, I'd be hard pressed to justify repairing them though when shimano's brakes are so cheap. I'd also get a new set of rotors, just to completely eliminate any carry over problems from this set.

  14. #14
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    No worries! Bleeding them is what ruined them the first time. I had no idea that getting the mineral oil on the pads would render them useless.

    I'm going to bleed them again, clean them, and then bed them like you said. I'll report back!

    Watts- I've only had the bike a year and with the winter and spring/summer we had, my riding was not a much as I would have like.

    Thanks!!
    www.getbusylivin.org
    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
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  15. #15
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    With that much lever travel, I'd also go with bleeding them again.

    But, time is money, and you could alleviate all your issues with some Deore, SLX, or even XT brakes. All can be had at pretty good prices, and you will have a hard time believing the performance difference.
    Cool BandolArrow

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  16. #16
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    Agreed on the lever travel. That doesn't sound correct. As a matter of fact, most people complain about the Tektro's not having enough lever travel out of the box and feeling stiff.

    Try to bleed them again, and if that doesn't bring up the lever feel, then consider other brake alternatives that are out there.

    Good luck!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhazard View Post
    With that much lever travel, I'd also go with bleeding them again.

    But, time is money, and you could alleviate all your issues with some Deore, SLX, or even XT brakes. All can be had at pretty good prices, and you will have a hard time believing the performance difference.
    I would also recommend that based on how big of an upgrade XT brakes were for me (and my bike came with higher quality brakes). $120 could not have been better spent for bike upgrades.

    BUT...

    If the hoses on his original brakes were too long and he shortened them and had to bleed them and got himself into this downward spiral, the XT's won't help that as he will have to shorten those hoses too and start this whole thing over.

    A proper brake bleed and bedding the pads in will go a long way.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradleykd View Post
    I would also recommend that based on how big of an upgrade XT brakes were for me (and my bike came with higher quality brakes). $120 could not have been better spent for bike upgrades.

    BUT...

    If the hoses on his original brakes were too long and he shortened them and had to bleed them and got himself into this downward spiral, the XT's won't help that as he will have to shorten those hoses too and start this whole thing over.

    A proper brake bleed and bedding the pads in will go a long way.
    You can order a Shimano SLX/XT brakeset in the proper length you need, no cutting required. I called Eric at Airborne when I had to replace my brakes, and asked him how long the hoses were. I found a set of SLX's on Ebay in the exact lengths I needed without much trouble.

  19. #19
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    I guess that could be an option. I put a shorter stem and dropped some spacers from stock on my bike so I had to shorten the original avids and the new xt's.

    Not a big deal as long as you learn how to bleed brakes correctly and you are stubborn enough to stick with it that first couple of times until you get the hang of it.

  20. #20
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    Wow! Thanks again everyone!

    For the record, I have not touched any brake lines.
    www.getbusylivin.org
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  21. #21
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    Well, I a brake bleed aaaaaaaand, no change! The system is tight and I didn't even see any air come out when I did the bleed.
    I also used an old set of pads to ensure no oil would contaminate the good ones.

    I can fully pull the levers and still pedal the dang bike.

    I know the easy answer is to replace them with something better, but I was hoping to not have to spend the $$ seeing that's why I bought this bike. Family of 4 and a civil service job does not lend to lots of extra cash for non-essential recreational wants.

    Could my levers be out of whack? Anyone have any good tutorials on how to dial in the levers?

    Thanks again!
    Brian
    www.getbusylivin.org
    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
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  22. #22
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    are you bleeding with new pads in the caliper? maybe try that?

    Here's the service manual ( i think for your model ) maybe this will help

    http://www.tektro.com/_english/03_su...1327024043.pdf

    It does mention a reach adjustment screw...

    I've only bled Avid Elixirs but, maybe try to flick the lever when you have fluid in both hoses to make sure no air is trapped in the lever, and try to have fluid in both hoses before closing the ports.. ( i saw a video where at the master cylinder when he was done, had no fluid showing in the tube..therefore i would assume thats trapping air in the cylinder and when you rotate it back down, the air is going right to the lever? )

    here's the video i watched https://youtu.be/WWbjXwue8Rw

    other than that, i'm out of ideas. Good luck
    Just a dude being a dude in the woods & Owner of Newark Bike Shop an authorized Diamondback Dealer.

    My personal bikes:
    Airborne Seeker
    Airborne HobGoblin
    Airborne Goblin
    Airborne Toxin
    Diamondback Insight ( on the trainer )
    Evo Vantage 7.0

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by FirefighterMTN View Post
    .

    I know the easy answer is to replace them with something better, but I was hoping to not have to spend the $$ seeing that's why I bought this bike. Family of 4 and a civil service job does not lend to lots of extra cash for non-essential recreational wants.
    Brian,

    I too am out of ideas. Perhaps the bleed could have not been done correctly and there are still bubles in the system or the fluid is bad?

    At this time I see 4 options:

    1. Upgrade to something else (cost prohibitive)
    2. Pay a shop to work on them (cost prohibitive)
    3. Contact Airborne and see if they can do anything for you from a warranty standpoint (questionable that they will, or that you will be able to reach them easily - I'd recommend contacting them thru Facebook if you try this option)
    4. Contact Tektro USA and see what they have to say - TEKTRO USA (Not familiar with their stance on direct contact regarding warrantees but maybe worth a try?)

    Best of luck!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  24. #24
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    I truly want thank everyone for weighing in here. I'm going to do another bleed and mess with the tension screw.
    I'll see what Airborne has to say (Thanks, BD) and then maybe Tektro.
    Hopefully, this will get me through to winter and then I can hopefully find a good deal on an upgraded brake set.
    www.getbusylivin.org
    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
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    Airborne Guardian
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