Picked up a Goblin- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Picked up a Goblin

    Finally after months of looking found a Goblin in my state. Wanted a Goblin Evo but you can't choose the deals you find. Was a little on the fence because of it's size and my size (18" frame/I'm 6 foot) but seems that I will be able to make it work.

    Unfortunately because it's used, although in great shape, I need to do a few things. I need to replace the rear shifter and get some MTB tires for it. Other than that, once I get it going, plan on riding it and getting a feel for it. We're coming up on winter, so this may be spring until I ride it, but should have some good one on one time with it.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Finally after months of looking found a Goblin in my state. Wanted a Goblin Evo but you can't choose the deals you find. Was a little on the fence because of it's size and my size (18" frame/I'm 6 foot) but seems that I will be able to make it work.

    Unfortunately because it's used, although in great shape, I need to do a few things. I need to replace the rear shifter and get some MTB tires for it. Other than that, once I get it going, plan on riding it and getting a feel for it. We're coming up on winter, so this may be spring until I ride it, but should have some good one on one time with it.
    Nice! Do you have any pictures for us? It has been a tad stale around here, and any new family is a good thing.

  3. #3
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    I've got a couple. Needs some spiffing up.

  4. #4
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    I have a couple. Needs some tlc



  5. #5
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    Hmmm, I know plenty of people go 1x10 but never heard of going 2x1. Wonder why he dropped the rear shifter.

    Keep an eye on ebay, you can pick up X7/X9 shifters pretty cheap.

  6. #6
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    Picked up a new shifter and cable of eBay. Just need some mtb tires that aren't that aggressive now. Thinking Kenda something 8s

  7. #7
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    Looks kinda wild with the slicks on it - good find!

  8. #8
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    Are these the stock hubs?





  9. #9
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    Those are stock hubs.

  10. #10
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    Yup stock hubs, pretty inexpensive if you search ebay, but not bad, spin well, and they use sealed bearings vs cone/cup which makes maintenance a little easier IMO.

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    Ok. So I think it's fair to assume the wheels on it are the stock ones too and I can go ahead and put mtb tires on them. When looking up the specs they listed a different hub. Is this an older version?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Ok. So I think it's fair to assume the wheels on it are the stock ones too and I can go ahead and put mtb tires on them. When looking up the specs they listed a different hub. Is this an older version?
    You have a newer version Goblin, the hubs were changed due to supply I would assume, but they do spin nicely. As far as tires, go for it! You can get up to 2.35's in front and rear.

  13. #13
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    Looking for decent mtb tires that will allow me to ride on the trails but also on the street as I live in the middle of the metro. I've heard good things about Fast Traks/ground controls and small block 8s. I actually got a fast trak/ground control setup for my birthday but thought maybe it makes more sense to run the same tire on both front and rear.

    What's the maximum back width?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Looking for decent mtb tires that will allow me to ride on the trails but also on the street as I live in the middle of the metro. I've heard good things about Fast Traks/ground controls and small block 8s. I actually got a fast trak/ground control setup for my birthday but thought maybe it makes more sense to run the same tire on both front and rear.

    What's the maximum back width?
    2.35" is comfortable, anything higher will more than likely rub.

  15. #15
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    2.1 SB8's came on my Guardian and i have been a fan. just finishing their third season; i ride mostly hardpack trails with the occasional sand pit, and commute to work via paved path now and again, they handled both very nicely. they get a little dicey when it's snotty, and are not good in the loose sand, but overall i would run them again. i actually have a set of used Stan's wheels in the mail for some more aggressive tires to go on, and am going to keep the stock wheels an SB8's around for commuting and gravel work.
    VILLAGE RACING

  16. #16
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    Got the derailleur all synced with the shifter so that's good. The girlfriend got me a 2.3 fast trak control tire for the front and a 2.1 ground control for the rear, or vice versa tire names. So gotta get those on next. Did they come with presta valves new?

    Also when I was test riding yesterday, and getting on the fork, when it came back up (rebound) it made a sucking noise like it was letting air in. Anyone experienced that before?
    Excited to try this pooch out in the trails soon

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Got the derailleur all synced with the shifter so that's good. The girlfriend got me a 2.3 fast trak control tire for the front and a 2.1 ground control for the rear, or vice versa tire names. So gotta get those on next. Did they come with presta valves new?

    Also when I was test riding yesterday, and getting on the fork, when it came back up (rebound) it made a sucking noise like it was letting air in. Anyone experienced that before?
    Excited to try this pooch out in the trails soon
    Perfectly normal, they do make a squish sound when the compress/rebound - you shouldn't see any oil on the stantions. As far as the wheels, I cannot remember as I took off the stock and put on some Crests instead. Either way, you will need presta valves to do the tubeless conversion.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Perfectly normal, they do make a squish sound when the compress/rebound - you shouldn't see any oil on the stantions. As far as the wheels, I cannot remember as I took off the stock and put on some Crests instead. Either way, you will need presta valves to do the tubeless conversion.

    Stanchions are cleaner than new. I looked at those before I bought it.

    Soul_chicken, out of curiosity what did a new wheelset run roughly? I'd like to go tubeless on these wheels, but not sure my options or if it is an option with the wheels that come stock. I got some tubes for the tires for the time being.

    Really liking the prelim feel of this. Got to tune the rear shifter a bit more for crisper shifts, but like everything about it. The avid breaks feel a little weak in the front, and don't know if it's the brake pads or if they need bleeding. Sounds like a winter/next spring project(s).

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post
    Stanchions are cleaner than new. I looked at those before I bought it.

    Soul_chicken, out of curiosity what did a new wheelset run roughly? I'd like to go tubeless on these wheels, but not sure my options or if it is an option with the wheels that come stock. I got some tubes for the tires for the time being.

    Really liking the prelim feel of this. Got to tune the rear shifter a bit more for crisper shifts, but like everything about it. The avid breaks feel a little weak in the front, and don't know if it's the brake pads or if they need bleeding. Sounds like a winter/next spring project(s).
    A new set of Stans wheels will run you 600, but I found a guy selling his locally for 300 including two extra hoops. It was a great deal! You can use the current wheels to go tubeless, but I would not bother trying to get the stock wire bead tires to seal, as they are quite the PITA. You should be fine with the new rubber going onto the WTB rims you have.

  20. #20
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    If you're looking for wheels, I highly recommend searching the pinkbike classifieds. There are guys that take brand new wheels off of high end bikes so they can upgrade to carbon wheels. I found myself a brand new set of WTB asym i23's on dt350's for $300. Retail for the hubs alone is over $300. They came stock on a Nomad XO1 (over $6k bike) so they're really nice wheels. There are some sweet deals out there, you just gotta take your time and look for them!

    Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Merlincycles.com has excellent wheels at excellent prices if you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks to get them.

    I got my Hope/Flow combo for less than $600.

    You won't have any problems going tubeless on stock wheels either. I did mine one night with gorilla tape and they are still holding air even though they haven't been ridden (or inflated) in months.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradleykd View Post
    Merlincycles.com has excellent wheels at excellent prices if you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks to get them.

    I got my Hope/Flow combo for less than $600.

    You won't have any problems going tubeless on stock wheels either. I did mine one night with gorilla tape and they are still holding air even though they haven't been ridden (or inflated) in months.
    Care to post some tips? I assume what you have to watch for is places air can leak through. So you use gorilla tape over the spoke holes to create an airtight barrier or attempt to. What do you use for sealant then? Once that is done, do you just permanently fix a schrader or presta valve in put the tires on, and compress them while airing to seat the bead?

  23. #23
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    The goop seals around the tape and also seals the bead to the rim (air will leak otherwise). I'm not sure "permanent" is the right word for the presta valve. It just pokes through the tape and is held onto the rim with a little ring nut. You can always remove/replace it by taking the wheel off, but I don't see a reason to unless it gets damaged.

    My wheels came "tubeless ready" from airborne (on the evo) so the tape was already there. I just had to remove the tire, remove the tube, put a new presta valve in (old one is attached to the tube), put the tire on, add the goop, then get the bead seated. Seating the bead was the hardest part. Instructions suggested you could do it with a hand pump but I couldn't get anywhere close. I had to go out and get a shrader adapter, which I then used to seat the bead with my air compressor. Once that was done I just spun/shook the wheel a bunch (according to the instructions). I could see where the goop would get forced out between the tire and the wheel in a few places and it immediately got thick and sealed it up.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by saberworks View Post
    The goop seals around the tape and also seals the bead to the rim (air will leak otherwise). I'm not sure "permanent" is the right word for the presta valve. It just pokes through the tape and is held onto the rim with a little ring nut. You can always remove/replace it by taking the wheel off, but I don't see a reason to unless it gets damaged.

    My wheels came "tubeless ready" from airborne (on the evo) so the tape was already there. I just had to remove the tire, remove the tube, put a new presta valve in (old one is attached to the tube), put the tire on, add the goop, then get the bead seated. Seating the bead was the hardest part. Instructions suggested you could do it with a hand pump but I couldn't get anywhere close. I had to go out and get a shrader adapter, which I then used to seat the bead with my air compressor. Once that was done I just spun/shook the wheel a bunch (according to the instructions). I could see where the goop would get forced out between the tire and the wheel in a few places and it immediately got thick and sealed it up.
    Man doesn't sound nearly as hard as what people make it out to be. So next question, where can I get goop and just presta valve and adapter? I imagine the lbs would have most but prices are probably sky high too. I have the gorilla tape

  25. #25
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    Yeah, I don't really have many tips to offer. Just do a search on here or google for Ghetto Tubeless and follow the steps. My only advice is to dip your finger in some sealant and rub it along the tire bead to lube it up so it will seat easier. An air compressor is your friend.

  26. #26
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    My LBS prices were almost exactly the same as Amazon and other internet bike shops. Those are pretty much the only places you'll find it.

  27. #27
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    It isn't hard. Just be patient and don't be in a hurry.

    My evo came with 2 tubes of stans sealant and the presta valves.

    2 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Stans-Tire-Sea...=stans+notubes

    And a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/Stans-Tubes-Pr...=stans+notubes

    And I bought something like this at an REI near me for only a couple of bucks: Amazon.com : Vktech 5x Converter Presta to Schrader Bicycle Bike Valve Adaptor Tube Pump Tools : Presta To Schrader Adapter : Sports & Outdoors

    Oh, the other thing the instructions said was that you may need to remove the presta valve core in order to get enough air flow. I had to do that. This part tripped me up for a while because I was going to jury-rig something and "practice" on the old presta valve (that was attached to the tubes I removed). Well, it turns out that most tubes have presta valves without removable cores. I had gone to the bike shop and got a presta valve core removal tool but obviously it didn't help on the "practice" ones. Once I compared to the new valves it was obvious how to remove them (the threads have flat spots over which you can use the tool or any small wrench, I can't remember the size). Once you have the right wrench it comes right off. This is what I ended up with: http://www.amazon.com/NoTubes-AS0015...=stans+notubes

    (Bike shop charged double, of course.)

    And... the last thing that tripped me up was that once the core is removed from the presta valve, the adapters don't have anything to screw to! Since I just needed them to seat the bead anyway, I just held it on and used my compressor to inflate.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by saberworks View Post
    It isn't hard. Just be patient and don't be in a hurry.

    My evo came with 2 tubes of stans sealant and the presta valves.

    2 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Stans-Tire-Sea...=stans+notubes

    And a set of these: Amazon.com : Stans No Tubes 44mm Presta Universal Valve Stem (Carded Pair for Road) : Bike Tubes : Sports & Outdoors

    And I bought something like this at an REI near me for only a couple of bucks: Amazon.com : Vktech 5x Converter Presta to Schrader Bicycle Bike Valve Adaptor Tube Pump Tools : Presta To Schrader Adapter : Sports & Outdoors

    Oh, the other thing the instructions said was that you may need to remove the presta valve core in order to get enough air flow. I had to do that. This part tripped me up for a while because I was going to jury-rig something and "practice" on the old presta valve (that was attached to the tubes I removed). Well, it turns out that most tubes have presta valves without removable cores. I had gone to the bike shop and got a presta valve core removal tool but obviously it didn't help on the "practice" ones. Once I compared to the new valves it was obvious how to remove them (the threads have flat spots over which you can use the tool or any small wrench, I can't remember the size). Once you have the right wrench it comes right off. This is what I ended up with: http://www.amazon.com/NoTubes-AS0015...=stans+notubes

    (Bike shop charged double, of course.)

    And... the last thing that tripped me up was that once the core is removed from the presta valve, the adapters don't have anything to screw to! Since I just needed them to seat the bead anyway, I just held it on and used my compressor to inflate.
    Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go through that. I'll have to get some of that stuff on order! Looks like it will basically be about the same price I paid for the two tubes I bought. Might return those suckers instead now!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    If you're looking for wheels, I highly recommend searching the pinkbike classifieds. ...There are some sweet deals out there, you just gotta take your time and look for them!
    even watch eBay; i just took my first ride today on a used set of Stan's Arch wheels with ZTR hubs that i snagged for $150 shipped..
    VILLAGE RACING

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbender785 View Post
    even watch eBay; i just took my first ride today on a used set of Stan's Arch wheels with ZTR hubs that i snagged for $150 shipped..
    Now that is a killer find!!

  31. #31
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    So attempted to go tubeless yesterday. Did the Gorilla tape mod and got some Stan's fluid and presta valves. Have brand new Specialized ground control and Trak control tires that are "2bliss" ready. The front I think we got, except in some spots the bad looks to not have popped out completely. These is that circumferential mold ring around the tire that kind of shows you how the tire is seated and that's not even all the way around. I forgot to use soapy water on the rim and thinking that's part of the problem. The front is holding air fine, but still of, the rear not so much. Can I deflate and pop the bead to add soapy water without harming the Stan's fluid already in it?

    What's the proper PSI to inflate with? We were trying 40psi per my friends suggestion, but the bead didn't make a typical "pop" when it seated. I know someone posted their process in the Airborne forum but can't for the life of me find it.

  32. #32
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    How many layers of tape...sometimes you may have to put like 2 layers of tape to build up the rim a bit(inside area)...soapy water and usually I end putting air into the tire with the compressor until I hear it pop on the bead..sometimes it takes a few times..U may be able to pop the bead on that rear tire and scoop the Stans out..I usually hang the wheel on the bike stand and pop it at the bottom if I have to doctor up my work..I tried the Gorilla Tape method before with mixed results...on non ust rims these days I just use Stans Tape and instead of that rubber strip I use two layers of the tape and build up the center part of the inner rim...put in the stems....soapy water...and hit it with the compressor until I hear it pop on the rim...initial blast his pretty high PSI...but usually works every time for me...

  33. #33
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    I overlaid the tape about 3" across the valve stem other than that only one layer from the tutorial I was following. I've redone the bead again and hit it with a little more compressed air. It's held over night with little to no leaks but the mold line that signifies it's level around the rim isn't visible on all places of the tires.

  34. #34
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    I know this is a week out, but it may help others....., did that bead finally "set" evenly around the rear tire? If not, what I have done in the past is let out a little air and grab the area that's not seated and roll it away from you to force the bead to set. I have gone tubeless on all my set ups, using ground controls and captains, and even the wire bead stock tires when I got my seeker before switching to tubeless tires. The weinmann wheels will stay sealed, just hold the wheel horizontal and get the fluid to flow around the bead and the seam where the rim comes together.

    I've never used gorilla tape, as I never found that the stans tape to be expensive, it's under $20.. Just get the right width, the tape should be wide enough to reach the sides on the inner wall ( lol, there's a joke there somewhere ). I only have to make one pass with the tape, starting and ending 3" from the valve.

    Compressed air is usually a must along with soapy water ( dawn dish detergent works the best ). The only time I was able to use just a hand pump was on my carbon wheelset.

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