Going 1x10 on the cheap!- Mtbr.com
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 200 of 342
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767

    Idea! Going 1x10 - 30T Race Face N/W

    After upgrading the stem and tires, it is time to experiment going to a 1x10 setup. Right now the 30T Narrow/Wide RaceFace chainring is on sale at BikeBling for less than 24 bucks! With some great advice from 8ikingVIIking, I pulled the trigger on it last night. With this upgrade, I will lose about a pound in weight and (hopefully) find the gearing that I am needing. I find myself in certain circumstances either too high geared or too low with no middle ground between the 24 and 38 chainrings. If anything, this will be a great experiment to see if I can find that middle ground. I will update once it arrives next week with pics and a small writeup as there isn't much to the upgrade.
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 10-16-2013 at 07:08 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Interested to see the conversion.

    What's a example of a circumstance where you are "too low or high"?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Going up hills mostly trevor_b. There is a 3 mile loop that I hit after work everynight with a section of uphills that I just can't seem to find the right gear for. I have run that section in the 24T - 3rd and 4th gear, and 38T - 2nd and 3rd gear and neither of them feel right at all. I have gone above and below the gears I have stated, but no luck. I can make them work, I just think I can make it work better if I had a chainring that was inbetween the 24 and 38.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    What do you mean by doesn't feel right? Too hard or too easy to sit and spin etc?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Yep, you hit the nail on the head. I have had my Goblin only a month now, but I am coming off a 2x7 setup on my Giant that I rode for two years and wondering if that has something to do with it. Perhaps just not used to the new gearing??

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Yea I know coming from a 3x8 previously to a 2x10 on the goblin it was definitely a different/learning experience. I have a good handle on it now though (after 500+ miles).

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I don't think I can wait that long...lol - right now I am at 150 miles. Not sure I could wait another 350 miles to see if I can grow into it. For 25 bucks though, it is worth a shot to see if this does anything for my riding. Worst case is that I hate it too, but can easily get my money back out of the chainring on CL.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    After upgrading the stem and tires, it is time to experiment going to a 1x10 setup. Right now the 30T Narrow/Wide RaceFace chainring is on sale at BikeBling for less than 24 bucks! With some great advice from 8ikingVIIking, I pulled the trigger on it last night. With this upgrade, I will lose about a pound in weight and (hopefully) find the gearing that I am needing. I find myself in certain circumstances either too high geared or too low with no middle ground between the 24 and 38 chainrings. If anything, this will be a great experiment to see if I can find that middle ground. I will update once it arrives next week with pics and a small writeup as there isn't much to the upgrade.
    Are you also getting a type 2 RD? It really needs that as well to work the best. The leaving the FD still-on-as-a-guide trick works "OK", but it doesn't keep the chain from popping off all of the time. The type 2 FD helps a lot.

    Good luck!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    29
    I'd be interested in trying this out. Do you plan to completely remove the FD? If so, isn't a chain guide needed?

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    With the narrow/wide ring, it should not need a chainguide for the most part, but a rear derailleur with a clutch would be ideal (according to RaceFace). I just want to try this ring on for size as an experiment, and then if it works as far as gearing, then I will seek out a clutched rear derailleur (or a nice chainguide depending on cash flow). I have talked to several people that use this 30T ring in a 1x10, and they all love it, with almost no dropped chains.

    As far as the front derailleur, I will more than likely ditch it when the time comes. All I plan to do is remove the shifter and cable for the first few rides to see how it all works and feels.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    310
    I recently switched to a 1x9 setup on my Guardian with no guide whatsoever, as the FD wouldn't adjust over enough to act as one. At first I dropped the chain with the standard ramped middle ring on the crank a couple times a ride, depending where I rode. I bought the RF narrow wide chain ring and no drops at all now, YMMV. This is with a standard X9 rear derailleur. A type 2 rear derailleur would make the drive line even more secure.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    29
    Thanks s0ul_chicken. For $30 shipped i ordered one to try. I find myself never using the large front ring on my goblin, however, I find the small ring a little small. If I like the gearing I might do the same as you by losing the FD + shifter and upgrading to a type 2 RD.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
    I recently switched to a 1x9 setup on my Guardian with no guide whatsoever, as the FD wouldn't adjust over enough to act as one. At first I dropped the chain with the standard ramped middle ring on the crank a couple times a ride, depending where I rode. I bought the RF narrow wide chain ring and no drops at all now, YMMV. This is with a standard X9 rear derailleur. A type 2 rear derailleur would make the drive line even more secure.
    Thats good to hear! I take it you wouldn't go back?

    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post
    Thanks s0ul_chicken. For $30 shipped i ordered one to try. I find myself never using the large front ring on my goblin, however, I find the small ring a little small. If I like the gearing I might do the same as you by losing the FD + shifter and upgrading to a type 2 RD.
    According to 8ikingVIIking, he used the inner chainring bolts to secure the new chainring since they are a bit longer. What color ring did you get?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    According to 8ikingVIIking, he used the inner chainring bolts to secure the new chainring since they are a bit longer. What color ring did you get?
    I just went with boring black.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I had to go green myself!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    310
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Thats good to hear! I take it you wouldn't go back?
    Nope, quite happy with 32T chain ring and 11-32T cassette. Enough gear range for the asphalt or any climbs here in the midwest.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I thought about a 32T, but for an extra 15 bucks I said no...lol - not sure why the 30T is cheaper, perhaps over-produced.

    The 30 will go to a 11-36, should be interesting.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?


    Yep, that's correct!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post
    I'd be interested in trying this out. Do you plan to completely remove the FD? If so, isn't a chain guide needed?

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?
    I am running 34T WnW with no guide and my stock X5 RD and have not dropped a chain once. Lots of roots rocks and mud too.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?
    I dont see why not. If not, I will upgrade to new RD and get a new WnW.
    I was gonna upgrade my RD, but I am happy with the X5.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Well, my plans for a 1x10 will be delayed due to a screwed up BB and frame... I will update as I get (hopefully) a frame replacement.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Well, my plans for a 1x10 will be delayed due to a screwed up BB and frame... I will update as I get (hopefully) a frame replacement.
    What happened?

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    See my other thread here.

  25. #25
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    Will that race face chain ring bolt up to the stock Guardian cranks? I'm thinking about changing the guardian to a 1x10 with Sram x9 RD and that race face chainring. After looking on the race face website I think it will bolt up to my stock cranks but I might have to use a shim
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    If it is a SRAM crankset, it should.

  27. #27
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    It's a Sram Truvativ E400. Does the fact that it is a 3 speed crankset have anything to do with a single chain ring being bolted to it? I think it would work but just looking at it I am not sure.
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    Will that race face chain ring bolt up to the stock Guardian cranks? I'm thinking about changing the guardian to a 1x10 with Sram x9 RD and that race face chainring. After looking on the race face website I think it will bolt up to my stock cranks but I might have to use a shim
    I used a Race Face ring on my Stock cranks and put them on another bike.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    145
    Don't forget to shorten your chain. I found this is the best thing I did to my 1x9 conversion on the guardian. It makes the gear changes crisper.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I am very interested in this.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    It's a Sram Truvativ E400. Does the fact that it is a 3 speed crankset have anything to do with a single chain ring being bolted to it? I think it would work but just looking at it I am not sure.
    Nope, you just bolt it in place of the middle ring

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Anyone know the length of the stock bolts or if you need to order new ones for the Goblin?

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I went ahead and ordered the green one. Got it and stuff to convert to tubeless for under $60! Looking forward to seeing how it rides and how much weight is dropped.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Anyone know the length of the stock bolts or if you need to order new ones for the Goblin?
    According to 8ikingVIIking, use the inner chainring bolts from the small chainring as these are a bit longer than the 38T bolts.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?
    There's a reason why SRAM spec'd a clutch-type RD for their 1x11 system. While the standard RD may work just fine, the chain will be more likely to come off; especially when you are near the largest or smallest cog (maximum cross-over) in the back and bouncing over bumps.

    I think the standard RD probably works "OK" but for how picky I am and how much I hate dropping chains, I would get a Type 2 RD.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I plan to pick one up as soon as I find a good deal on one. I know it has been mentioned in another thread, but I can't find it. What style (length?) rear derailleur does the Goblin need? What are the advantages to upgrading (other than weight) to something beyond the X7 Type 2?

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Other than weight, you would get a clutch on the RD, which helps keep chain tension. Obviously, this is the only way to go if you are going to run single ring like Jeremy suggested.

    My new frame is headed out today, so by the end of the week I should be back in business. YAY! Thank you Jeremy and Eric!

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    X7 is solid and if you're happy with the performance I don't see a reason to upgrade to x9 or xo. If/when I go 1x10 on my goblin, I will probably just get the x7 type 2 unless I find a good deal on a x9 type 2.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    X7 is solid and if you're happy with the performance I don't see a reason to upgrade to x9 or xo. If/when I go 1x10 on my goblin, I will probably just get the x7 type 2 unless I find a good deal on a x9 type 2.
    Check amazon for the x9 type 2, last I checked they were $90

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

  40. #40
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildfifty View Post
    Don't forget to shorten your chain. I found this is the best thing I did to my 1x9 conversion on the guardian. It makes the gear changes crisper.
    How do you know what length to make the chain?
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    How do you know what length to make the chain?
    Generally, when the chain is on the largest cog on the back, the RD should be in about a 45 degree angle to the ground facing toward the front of the bike.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I plan to pick one up as soon as I find a good deal on one. I know it has been mentioned in another thread, but I can't find it. What style (length?) rear derailleur does the Goblin need? What are the advantages to upgrading (other than weight) to something beyond the X7 Type 2?
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    The X7 RD should function fairly well. I personally think you get more bang for your buck with buying better shifters than RD.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    The X7 RD should function fairly well. I personally think you get more bang for your buck with buying better shifters than RD.

    Jeremy
    Thanks. I have read the same thing on the shifters as well. Do they only sell them in pairs?

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    Jeremy
    Disclaimer: I know very little about bikes and pretty much only know about RDs from what I have read today.

    With that said, SRAM list both the X7 and X9 type 2 (the only 2 options in my price range) as 36t compatible on their website. I have seen other posts state that if you are running 1x10 then the short cage is the way to go. I don't know how much length difference there is between the short/med/long cages, but I would think shorter is better in this case assuming it will work.

    Thoughts?

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Either the short or medium cage will work - a short cage would have a bit better ground clearance though.

  46. #46
    I ride bikes
    Reputation: moefosho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    2,419
    I have a long cage xtr non clutch derailleur and I have yet to drop a chain.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    I have a long cage xtr non clutch derailleur and I have yet to drop a chain.
    Yep, same here, but with a mid cage x7. To be honest I think the "need" for a clutch RD is exaggerated big time

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Good thing I didn't start tearing my bike down. Chainring is backordered until mid-october
    Last edited by jdhunt0; 09-17-2013 at 06:57 AM.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Good think I didn't start tearing my bike down. Chainring is backordered until mid-october
    Back-ordered? That figures, as all I see is the order status as "pending" since my order date. I guess I need to make a phone call!

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    25
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    Well, I have not had the chance to do this yet due to the fact that the chainring is back ordered at least until the first of the month. As for some of the other guys on this thread, I cannot say.

    Don't worry though, once the ring gets released, I will be doing a short write-up to it.

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    All you really have to do is get a RaceFace WnW chain ring, shorten the chain and lose the Front Der. and shifters. If you are dropping chains, either get a guide or a RD with a clutch.

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    All you need to buy is the ring and the associated tools if you plan on doing it yourself. Its a really simple install. Just remove the crank, take off the rings, and put the new ring on in place of the big ring. The hardest part of the whole thing was taking off that stupid black link to get the chain off! Its much easier if you buy the park chain plier tool, but I cheaped out and used a needlenose

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I was on BikeBling.com today just perusing their inventory when I noticed they made a goof on the RF N/W chainring. All their chainrings were 37 bucks, with the 30T discounted to 23 dollars. As of today, they have reversed this. All chainrings are still 37 bucks, but the 30T price increased to 52 dollars!

    I am guessing someone screwed up and it was always supposed to be 15 dollars more instead of 15 dollars off? Either way, I am glad I kept the order in place even though they are back ordered. Still no word on release, but I think I can wait for a mistake like that to end up on my bike on the cheap!
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 09-24-2013 at 12:19 PM.

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    29
    I'm in the same boat. I got my order in and now it listed on back order. I bet the back order is a game to get people to cancel. I said i would hold out.

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Agreed - realized they sold it wrong and now trying to cover the losses. I don't mind waiting, plus after not responding (didn't need to) it finally hit the credit card. Looking forward to it eventually showing up, I am sure my riding will benefit from it.

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.

  58. #58
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    Disagree on the back order, it's sold out everywhere
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    Disagree on the back order, it's sold out everywhere
    Jenson has the black ones in stock.

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.
    And the response from BikeBling?

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Jenson has the black ones in stock.
    Black is no fun - gimme green for the Goblin!

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    And the response from BikeBling?



    Black is no fun - gimme green for the Goblin!
    I guess I'm no fun



    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    And the response from BikeBling?

    I do apologize for the delay. We won’t be getting our chainrings in for at least another 6 weeks. All prices will be honored at the time of purchase. If you have any questions please feel free to contact customer service.

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I guess I'm no fun
    What I meant was, no fun for me...

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I do apologize for the delay. We won’t be getting our chainrings in for at least another 6 weeks. All prices will be honored at the time of purchase. If you have any questions please feel free to contact customer service.
    Sounds about right, but at least they are going to honor the prices!

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.
    Got the email on Wednesday saying item was backordered 6 weeks. I sent an email questioning if they were trying to get me to cancel my order at the reduced price and was told no, they were honoring the price, but would be at least 6 weeks before they had any in stock. Got an email 2 days later with a tracking number.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Yep, same here, just received a tracking number saying it would be here on the 3rd! NICE! I will be holding off on the install until Sunday as the Road Apple Rally is on Saturday.

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Took all my parts off last night. Took 0.94 lbs off the bike. I will still need to add the weight of the new chainring, but for ~$25 I'm going to lose almost a pound and gain a simpler drivetrain.

  67. #67
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    For all of you who bought the 30T chain ring on bike bling, where did you get the crank shims?
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Took all my parts off last night. Took 0.94 lbs off the bike. I will still need to add the weight of the new chainring, but for ~$25 I'm going to lose almost a pound and gain a simpler drivetrain.
    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    For all of you who bought the 30T chain ring on bike bling, where did you get the crank shims?
    You won't need shims as the ring has a 2mm offset. 8iking VIIking suggests using the inner chainring bolts as they are a bit longer.

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Got it. This thing is practically weightless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Going 1x10 on the cheap!-2013-10-03-11.17.01.jpg  


  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Do you have a black goblin? Been wanting to see what that green looks like on the bike.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Do you have a black goblin? Been wanting to see what that green looks like on the bike.
    I sure do. I'll have it on tonight.

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Sweet! Running the stock x7 RD?

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Sweet! Running the stock x7 RD?
    For now. I'll upgrade to a Type II if needed.

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Cool, be sure to report on dropped chains if they do happen. I'm very curious about this set up.

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I received mine last night as well, and you are right, that thing is stupid light! I will be putting mine on Saturday night after I finish the race.

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Cool, be sure to report on dropped chains if they do happen. I'm very curious about this set up.
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2
    What tooth ring did you go with? Any idea what speed you spin out at?

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2
    Good to know! I figured you would almost certainly have to shorten the chain (which I plan to do) to keep it from dropping.

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    What tooth ring did you go with? Any idea what speed you spin out at?
    30T here - I will find out for Sundays ride where I top out at.

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-tk4y.jpg

    I have only ridden around the block once, but works so far. No noise. The chain is still the stock length. I'm not sure if it could go shorter or not.

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-mp93.jpg

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-8yun.jpg

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    The green looks great! How many teeth on the ring?

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    The green looks great! How many teeth on the ring?
    Thanks. I went with the 30T.

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Looks great jd! It looks like (if you wanted to) you could take out about three links and be ok. In the large cog, the lower jockey wheel on the rear derailleur could go up to a 45 degree angle toward the chainstay. Going from a 38 to a 30 means you could lose that much chain to keep things nice and tight.

    Again, looks awesome! I have the green chainring as well, but now I am on a silver frame vs. my other black one, so I am not too sure how the green will turn out.

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Don't I have to take them out in pairs? Do I just drive the pin out with a hammer and punch like any other chain to remove a link? I'm new to bikes, I'm used to industrial equipment and motorcycles.

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I would seriously consider getting a chain tool, as they are rather cheap and MUCH easier to use, and you wouldn't have to worry about damaging the chain. I bought a expensive chain tool at 15 bucks, so they aren't very high dollar. If you are unsure on how to do it, I would suggest going to a bike shop and have them do it, or at least show you how to break a chain. Another option is leave it as is, just like 8iking VIIking did as he has not had any issues with the chain at the stock length.

    Either way, it would be a good idea to at least carry a chain tool for your rides just so you can do a repair if your chain breaks on the trail.

    A "link" of chain is actually three pieces - a female end, male middle, female end. I said three links earlier, but it would be more like two to start with.

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Here is an image of a chain link


    Name:  Copy of 50-6913-NCL-TOP.jpg
Views: 670
Size:  3.0 KB

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Yea I would definitely recommend a chain break tool. I just use the one on my multi tool.

    How was the install? Pretty straight forward? I've never replaced chain rings before.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I had never changed one before either and I had no problems. Hardest part was getting the black link apart on the chain.

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Those quick links are a pain in the arse to remove for the first time. Once I got mine off, I assembled and disassembled the chain quite a few times to get it to break in and get easier to remove.

    All you should have to do trevor is remove the cranks, and take off the chainring bolts and swap the chainrings. Use the inner chainring bolts as they are a bit longer, and it should be smooth sailing.

    EDIT: I forgot to post what two links of chain look like jd, here you go.

    Name:  untitled.JPG
Views: 716
Size:  3.8 KB

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    EDIT: I forgot to post what two links of chain look like jd, here you go.

    Name:  untitled.JPG
Views: 716
Size:  3.8 KB
    Technically, that's 2.5 links.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  90. #90
    My Brain Hurts!
    Reputation: ProfGumby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    697
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Yep, you hit the nail on the head. I have had my Goblin only a month now, but I am coming off a 2x7 setup on my Giant that I rode for two years and wondering if that has something to do with it. Perhaps just not used to the new gearing??
    Maybe being captain obvious here, why not set up the new bike with the same chain ring/cassette gearing your Giant had? Easy-peasy and you'll know right away if that's it. Getting used to new gearing that does not feel right is a tough thing to do...
    Remember when we were kids and our Mom's said we could not play in the mud? I'm making up for it now!!

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Rode for about 8 miles today. I had zero issues, but the trail was relatively smooth. I bought a chain tool and took a link out when I got home. Looks like it is supposed to now. Total weight loss was 401g if anyone is curious.

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Good to hear. Did you spin out at all? Do you know how fast you got up to?

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Good to hear. Did you spin out at all? Do you know how fast you got up to?
    Not sure what you mean? I'm a newbie. No idea how fast I got up to. I could run in the 12t gear on flat sections. If I were to do it over I would get the 32t, however, the 30t was $15 less when I ordered mine.

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Spin out meaning running out of gear on flat surface or a descent where you're pedaling as fast as you can but not going any faster (if that makes sense). I've been trying to decide between the 30t and 32t and just can't make up my mind. I'd like the easy gear for climbing with the 30t for sure. Guess I need to do more gear calculations.

    By 12t do you mean the 11t cog? That's the smallest one on the back. Were you easily pedaling that gear on flat surface?

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    My bike has a 12-36 cassette, not the 11-36 the specs call for. Not sure why. Is mine the only one like this?

    Using your definition, I never spun out. But like I said, I'm new to biking. I could easily see someone with more experience running out of gear with the 30t.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    I would say if you're debating on going between the 30t and 32t, go with the 30t. Unless you are riding a lot of fire roads or VERY flat terrain, you'll want lower gearing.

    Think about it this way....do you use your 3 highest gears more or your 3 lowest gears? If you use your 3 lowest gears more, go with the 30t

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Technically, that's 2.5 links.

    Jeremy
    Yep, my bad - I need to learn to count!

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Spin out meaning running out of gear on flat surface or a descent where you're pedaling as fast as you can but not going any faster (if that makes sense). I've been trying to decide between the 30t and 32t and just can't make up my mind. I'd like the easy gear for climbing with the 30t for sure. Guess I need to do more gear calculations.

    By 12t do you mean the 11t cog? That's the smallest one on the back. Were you easily pedaling that gear on flat surface?
    I lost about 5mph switching to a 30T. Yesterdays race on the downhill (asphalt) with the 2x10 I hit 29.6mph, today at the same section with the 30T I topped out at 24.3mph. I can't call it consistent as circumstances under the test are not the same, but I can say that I was spinning out on the 30T. The pace on the 2x10, if I had the legs, I could have spun faster.

    Quote Originally Posted by ProfGumby View Post
    Maybe being captain obvious here, why not set up the new bike with the same chain ring/cassette gearing your Giant had? Easy-peasy and you'll know right away if that's it. Getting used to new gearing that does not feel right is a tough thing to do...
    Well, for one, budget. Changing a chainring made the most sense to me vs. trying a new cassette. Hard to pass up an easy change for 23 dollars, and perhaps a good chance to fine tune it - makes me want to try out other tooth options in the future. I also removed two links from the chain to help out until I move to an upgraded RD.


    RF1 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RF2 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RF3 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    The Doberman and Poodle could care less...


    RF4 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 10-06-2013 at 05:12 PM.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Looks good on the silver frame too! Thanks for the update.

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Thanks trevor! I only did the road section yesterday - no trail time as I was very sore after Saturdays race. I will be headed out tonight after work to see how it performs on the trail. There are four or five sections that will make your teeth chatter, so it will be a great test for the chainring.

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Could someone with a black goblin take a look at their cassette and let me know if it is a 11-36 or 12-36 please?

  101. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Could someone with a black goblin take a look at their cassette and let me know if it is a 11-36 or 12-36 please?
    It's varied a little depending on production run.

    While we spec'd 11-36, we know that there was a time period when SRAM was in short supply of some of the cassettes and some have shipped with 12-36.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  102. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Thanks Jeremy

  103. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Whoops! Jeremy got it.

  104. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I had my first ride last night with the new setup, and I am truly amazed at the difference. First off, chain slap is 99 percent gone. Taking two links out and using that narrow wide was an improvement I never expected - one quiet drivetrain indeed, and I bombed down some seriously stupid rock gardens. Secondly, the range (for me) of gearing now is spot on. I can hold a gear longer and found I am a bit quicker on some sections of the trail with none of the in-between gearing issues I had before with the 38/24 setup. Current weight of the bike stands at 27.2 pounds, with a weight loss just shy of a full pound after dropping the shifter, chainrings, cable, and front derailleur. Eventually the RD will be replaced, but with the performance I saw last night, it isn't real high on the priority list for me. YMMV

  105. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I'll update my results. I am running the stock RD and one link shorter on the chain. I have not yet had a dropped chain. I did however have some trouble yesterday, on some rough terrain the chain would jump to the next gear. I would have to shift down and back up. I took one more link out of the chain when I got home, but have not yet tried it yet.

  106. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I removed 2 links from my chain, with no shifting problems as of yet. Rode another 15 miles over the weekend with no issues to report either - new RD will be here this week sometime.

  107. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I'll update my results. I am running the stock RD and one link shorter on the chain. I have not yet had a dropped chain. I did however have some trouble yesterday, on some rough terrain the chain would jump to the next gear. I would have to shift down and back up. I took one more link out of the chain when I got home, but have not yet tried it yet.
    Sounds like your rd might be out of tune. Check your "b" screw, its the one that adjusts how far the pulley is from cassette. If the pulley is too far away, it can cause the chain to jump cogs.

    Shift to the largest cog and check the distance, SRAM spec is 6mm. The easiest way to check is with a 6mm hex wrench.

    Hope that helps!

  108. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Where do I measure the 6mm?

  109. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252
    From the top of the tooth on the cog to the top of the tooth of the upper pulley

  110. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Thanks. I'll take a look at it tonight. I did install new handlebars and stem to the amount of bend in the shifter cable could have changed affecting its adjustment.

  111. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Well... I adjusted the RD. And then some more. And then a little more. Decided to start back from the beginning. I think I'd got it working ok. I will find out on the next ride.

  112. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Well... I adjusted the RD. And then some more. And then a little more. Decided to start back from the beginning. I think I'd got it working ok. I will find out on the next ride.
    If you're having trouble there's a lot of good derailleur adjustment tutorials out there. The park tool site has a good one and I'm sure the sram website has a tech manual

  113. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767

    50M in, some results...

    OK, today I decided to see how things were looking on the chainring after hitting 50 miles on the 1x10 setup. I just have to say, I love the SRAM setup! It is so easy to take the cranks apart without needing any special tools.

    As I digress, you can see that the chainring has a bit of outside wear. More wear than I would like to see at such an early stage.


    RFTest by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    The inside of the ring, however, looks like it hasn't even seen 2 feet of trail time. At this point, I think I need to move in the chainring to develop some even wear.


    RFTest1 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    Close up of the mounted ring, outside.


    RFTest2 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    And closer still...


    RFTest3 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    Chainring removed:


    RFTest5 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RFTest4 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    I was hoping for even wear, but that is not the case. So, in attempt to correct the problem, I am adding 2mm chainring spacers to see how, or if, the wear evens out. Again, all an experiment, so YMMV. More updates to come once I get a few more miles in on the spacers.

  114. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    To remove the cranks is it just the 8mm (not certain of size) bolt on the non drive side?

  115. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    You are correct trevor_b! Are you thinking of taking the leap to the 1x10?

  116. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    If its wearing on the outside, what if you removed the 2.5mm BB spacer on the drive side and move it to the non-drive side? That might work, and there should be plenty of crank clearance to allow for that change.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  117. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    If its wearing on the outside, what if you removed the 2.5mm BB spacer on the drive side and move it to the non-drive side? That might work, and there should be plenty of crank clearance to allow for that change.

    Jeremy
    Nice idea Jeremy! I didn't think you could put two of those spacers together without issues on the non-drive side. It is nice to see I have a couple of options when it comes to shifting the crank over. Thank you sir!

  118. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Should there be any play side to side in the crank? Where can I order the large outer nut that goes on the crank?

  119. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    I've been thinking about going 1x10 for some time now using the 30t. I just can't justify it right now since everything is working fine for me now. If only I would have bought one when that deal was still there then I could've experimented a bit like you guys.

  120. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    I don't think there should be any play side to side.

  121. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    I've been thinking about going 1x10 for some time now using the 30t. I just can't justify it right now since everything is working fine for me now. If only I would have bought one when that deal was still there then I could've experimented a bit like you guys.
    I don't regret doing it one bit. I just came from my LBS, and he has the 30T for fifty bucks... I really regret not getting a good handfull of those rings when I had the chance!!

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Should there be any play side to side in the crank? Where can I order the large outer nut that goes on the crank?
    There should not be any play at all in the cranks. My black Goblin did not need crank shims, but my silver frame does. As far as that outer nut goes, I want to say it is pressed into the crank arm - is yours damaged or loose or something?

  122. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    As far as that outer nut goes, I want to say it is pressed into the crank arm - is yours damaged or loose or something?
    It's threaded. I removed it to remove the crank. Did I not need to? Due to the locktite used at the factory and it being soft aluminum the allen part is slightly rounded. I did not want to take it off again without a replacement in hand.

  123. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Are you talking about the black cap that is on there? I had no idea those came out, along with the nut itself. I always just dropped the allen into the nut and removed the crank arm - I haven't seen the actual nut come out at all, is why I thought they were pressed in. I am off to lunch, so I will take them apart again to get a better look at it.

  124. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Sure enough, those caps do come out, but I never had to take it off to remove the cranks. The cap takes a 10mm, and the crank bolt is an 8mm, which is all you need.


    RFTest6 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RFTest9 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    So, I wouldn't worry about that cap, just use the 8mm to remove the crank arm as it drops in past that 10mm cap.

  125. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Sure enough, those caps do come out, but I never had to take it off to remove the cranks. The cap takes a 10mm, and the crank bolt is an 8mm, which is all you need.


    RFTest6 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RFTest9 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    So, I wouldn't worry about that cap, just use the 8mm to remove the crank arm as it drops in past that 10mm cap.
    The cap is there to facilitate the removal of the cranks. Without it, you would need a crank-puller tool. The 8mm bolt pushes against the cap and removes the arm. Hope that makes sense, thanks!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  126. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    That it does Jeremy - thanks!

  127. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    66
    Thanks to this thread i ordered up a 30T narrow/wide raceface chain ring and a x9 short cage type 2 RD for my hobgob! Hopefully this does the ticket for me so i can run the KS lev on the internal cable routing.

  128. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Good luck hedz0r! Let us know how it all turns out sir - pics too please!!

  129. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Any updates from you guys that are setup 1x10 with the stock derailer? Any dropped chains or other issues? I'm really thinking about going to a 1x10.

  130. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    25
    I have a Guardian, I went 1x9, bought a raceface 30T WNW, took off all front derailleur parts, took off crank, replaced 30T WNW, and put back together, it has never jumped the chain even after hard riding, you need to stop talking about it and do it you will not be disappointed. Sorry to sound blunt but you will be very happy once you do it.

  131. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I have a Type 2 ready to go on, but I just haven't done it yet due to not having any issues so far without it. I had a nice 12.5 mile ride yesterday and the only complaint I have is top-end. Best top speed with the 30T is 24.8mph, and with the stock 38T I was rolling just under 29.6mph - not a huge deal as that is a 2 mile paved section of the course. I will be looking for a 34T tooth just to try out just to satisfy my curiosity.

  132. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    My concern is top end as well. I will sometimes ride paved roads and trails to the single track.

    Is that 24mph actually pedaling on flat surface or is it pedaling/coasting down a hill?

  133. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    My concern is top end as well. I will sometimes ride paved roads and trails to the single track.

    Is that 24mph actually pedaling on flat surface or is it pedaling/coasting down a hill?
    Flat surface pedaling as fast as I could turn the cranks. If you are worried about speed, you may want to go 34T or even up to a 38T to maintain what the stock setup has.

  134. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    I'm more worried about the climbing gear so I will be getting the 30t, I plan on picking one up today and installing today or tomorrow.

    I just need an 8mm hex right? Did you guys reuse the sram quick link or get a new one? They say these 10spd sram quick links are one time use.

  135. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    I have had my link off and reinstalled twice. No problems yet.

  136. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    25
    i also needed a crank puller, to get the crank arm off.

  137. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    i also needed a crank puller, to get the crank arm off.
    I did not need a puller. Just backed the center bolt out and the crank came with it.

  138. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Did you use needle nose pliers jdhunt?

  139. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    135


    It's not easy, but can be done.

  140. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    i also needed a crank puller, to get the crank arm off.
    Not needed. A 8mm hex is all you need. And maybe a pipe or old seatpost for some extra torque

  141. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Did you use needle nose pliers jdhunt?
    I used a needlenose., it was a pain in the arse but it came off. I reused it and haven't had any problems in the 20+ rides since

  142. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    66
    If you fold the chain over onto itself you can use a channel lock to pop the power lock open easily then I used a needle nose to reattach the link.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  143. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    I tried to undo the link like that video shows and actually ended up bending the power lock lol. So I ended up using a spare I had laying around.

  144. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    I have one of these in my master bike tool chest and its the best $15 I ever spent.

    Park Tool MLP-1 Master Link Pliers

    Amazon.com: Park Tool MLP-1 Master Link Pliers: Sports & Outdoors

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  145. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    I'm more worried about the climbing gear so I will be getting the 30t, I plan on picking one up today and installing today or tomorrow.

    I just need an 8mm hex right? Did you guys reuse the sram quick link or get a new one? They say these 10spd sram quick links are one time use.
    Nice! I really, really like the 30T after getting the chainline where I want it. I moved one 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side and left the 2mm spacers on the chainring which moved it in line of the fifth sprocket (keep in mind I have the silver frame which requires the BB spacers). Total chainring distance moved is 4.5mm, helping get some even wear on the chainring.

    One thing I have noticed is you may want to use some Loc-Tite on the chainring bolts as I have had to tighten them back down every five or six rides. YMMV

    You will only need the 8mm hex to remove the cranks, you do not need to remove the outer 10mm cap. The quick links are a major pain to get off, but once you get the link removed, it does become easier to take it on and off the chain using needlenose pliers. They are designed as multiple use, so do not throw them away!

  146. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I have one of these in my master bike tool chest and its the best $15 I ever spent.

    Park Tool MLP-1 Master Link Pliers

    Amazon.com: Park Tool MLP-1 Master Link Pliers: Sports & Outdoors

    Jeremy
    Even better, the 1.2 Version of the tool...works for both on and off now.

    Amazon.com: Park Master Link Pliers Mlp-1.2: Sports & Outdoors

  147. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    Thanks guys, I will have to order one of those.

  148. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post
    Even better, the 1.2 Version of the tool...works for both on and off now.

    Amazon.com: Park Master Link Pliers Mlp-1.2: Sports & Outdoors
    For "on" I have always just put the link together with my fingers, spun the cranks so that it is on the top of the driveline, then applied pressure on the cranks to pop it into place. That new tool is cool though, but I don't know if there was a need for the "on" part of the tool.............

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  149. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    814
    You can use channel locks - that's what I used to disconnect mine. Word is that the 10 and 11spd chains weren't designed to be disassembled that way, but the pins are also super stiff so I'm not sure the truth in that.

    The tool would make it a lot easier, but channel locks were a lot easier than needle nose pliers as well.

  150. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767

    Update!

    I decided to roll the RAR course again today, and really push the bike as hard as possible for max mph. All I have to say after today's ride that I am hooked 100 percent on the 30T.

    Results:

    -Race Day on stock setup, 38T - 29.6mph - It felt like I didn't have the legs to go max cadence.
    -Preliminary MPH Test, 30T - 24.8mph - It felt like I could have had a slightly faster cadence.
    -Final MPH Test, 30T - 34.3mph - Pushing myself as hard as possible on the same section.

    Here is the link to the Garmin Race.

    Here is the link to the Final MPH Test.

    At this point, I don't see why I would ever need to go bigger than 30T, and is still, my favorite upgrade up to this point.

  151. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    431
    What Garmin do you use soul chicken? I've been casually looking at Garmin devices since it would be nice not to have to use my phone.

  152. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I have been using the Edge 200 - not very expensive, but a great little gadget to use for information on any ride. It's a bit smaller than a credit card, and about as thick as a slice of bread. I was able to pick mine up for $116, and it was the best thing I have bought for the bike.

    Things I like about the Edge 200
    - It has two odometers. One is my overall milage, and the second is my Goblin mileage.
    - Bread crumb mapping in case you get lost and have to find your way back.
    - You can download any garmin course from other garmin users and "race" their times.
    - Reports on the ride including distance, time, elevation gain, and calories burned on the garmin connect site. This is also displayed while you ride at the bottom of the screen.
    - Back lit screen that is easy to read.

    Things that could be better (it is the base model, so these are addressed I am sure on the more expensive models).
    - Not being able to see the current time. This is displayed with the unit on, but not while it is tracking. If you wanted to check the time you would need to save your ride where you are at and go back to the main screen to see it.
    - Looking up a saved ride for information on the garmin - there is none, only the name of the ride. You have to go to garmin connect to view any stats on any saved rides stored on the garmin.


    Results of the speed test on the 30T:

    -Race Day on stock setup, 38T - 29.6mph - It felt like I didn't have the legs to go max cadence.
    -Preliminary MPH Test, 30T - 24.8mph - It felt like I could have had a slightly faster cadence.
    -Final MPH Test, 30T - 34.3mph - Pushing myself as hard as possible on the same section.

    Here is the link to the Garmin Race.

    Here is the link to the Final MPH Test.

  153. #153
    JR7
    JR7 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Nice! I really, really like the 30T after getting the chainline where I want it. I moved one 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side and left the 2mm spacers on the chainring which moved it in line of the fifth sprocket (keep in mind I have the silver frame which requires the BB spacers). Total chainring distance moved is 4.5mm, helping get some even wear on the chainring.

    One thing I have noticed is you may want to use some Loc-Tite on the chainring bolts as I have had to tighten them back down every five or six rides. YMMV

    You will only need the 8mm hex to remove the cranks, you do not need to remove the outer 10mm cap. The quick links are a major pain to get off, but once you get the link removed, it does become easier to take it on and off the chain using needlenose pliers. They are designed as multiple use, so do not throw them away!
    Were you able to use the inner chainring bolts after adding the 2mm spacers to the chainring? Can you remember if the black Goblin frame had the BB spacers?

    I just ordered a new Goblin and want to do this mod as soon as it is delivered.

    Thanks for all the updates on your 1x10 conversion!

  154. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    50
    The more things change, the more they stay the same. Once had a 1963 violet Schwinn collegiate 1x5 with 26" tires. Recently saw a purple mtn bike in mtnbike action magazine, and those old 26" tires are real close to 650b. How much different can 1x5 and 1x10 be? Lol

  155. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by Teletodd View Post
    How much different can 1x5 and 1x10 be? Lol
    A lot. Lol

    But I understand the sentiment. 20 years from now 4x12 drivetrains will probably be all the rage.

  156. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I for sure will be a 1x10 convert - no going back for me!

  157. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    324
    Signing up. I plan to do this for my wife eventually. After we buy a bike.

  158. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I missed this post, my apologies JR7...


    Quote Originally Posted by JR7 View Post
    Were you able to use the inner chainring bolts after adding the 2mm spacers to the chainring? Can you remember if the black Goblin frame had the BB spacers?

    I just ordered a new Goblin and want to do this mod as soon as it is delivered.

    Thanks for all the updates on your 1x10 conversion!
    Yep, I used the inner chainring bolts since they were longer than the outer bolts. As far as I know, the black Goblins do not need the 2.5mm spacers for the BB - at least mine did not need them. The silver frame replacement did require them though. You can also purchase the tabbed shims from RaceFace as well - they are a bit burlier than the regular spacers, and should aid in getting you a decent chain line. You can check out this Compatability Chart from RaceFace for the 30T. They are required for carbon, but optional for aluminum. Please note that only the 30T is machined differently than all the other tooth options, which is why they suggest using longer bolts.
    Once you install the chainring, check your chainline by shifting into the gear that gives you a straight chain front to back. Make your determination on if that is where you want to be - if it lines up in 6th or 7th, you may want to move it in UNLESS you use your high gears the more often than the lower gears. If you like it where it lies, no need for tabs or spacers. Good luck!

    EDIT - thank you for posting as it had not occured to me adding those 2mm crank spacers dropped my 8.5mm bolts to 6.5mm. This means I need to get some 10's or 12's on order to compensate!

  159. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Alright - received my 12.5mm RaceFace chainring bolts to make the bolt length correct. If you do use any kind of shim or spacer, be sure to pick up a set of 12's to make up the difference. If you are not using bolt spacers, 10mm bolts would be ideal.




  160. #160
    JR7
    JR7 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Alright - received my 12.5mm RaceFace chainring bolts to make the bolt length correct. If you do use any kind of shim or spacer, be sure to pick up a set of 12's to make up the difference. If you are not using bolt spacers, 10mm bolts would be ideal.



    Thanks for the reply! I also went with the 30T. There is a lot of climbing here in WV!

    I went to the LBS around here and picked up a variety of chainring bolt spacers. I ended up going with 12 mm bolts and a 4.3 mm spacer. I still have a little room to move the chainring toward the BB but I think this should work.

  161. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by JR7 View Post
    Thanks for the reply! I also went with the 30T. There is a lot of climbing here on WV!

    I went to the LBS around here and picked up a variety of chainring bolt spacers. I ended going with 12 mm bolts and a 4.3 mm spacer. I still have a little room to move the chainring toward the BB but I think this should work.
    Sweet - glad to hear the success on making the leap! Got any pictures?

  162. #162
    JR7
    JR7 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Sweet - glad to hear the success on making the leap! Got any pictures?
    I actually just ordered the green 30T this evening. I originally ordered the black one. I don't guess it will hurt having an extra one laying around. Haha!

    That green looks sick on yours. I also ordered some green ODI Ruffian Lock-ons. I'm hoping everything matches somewhat. Gotta look good on the trails to make up for my skills!

    I'll try and get some pictures up after everything comes in.

  163. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by JR7 View Post
    I actually just ordered the green 30T this evening. I originally ordered the black one. I don't guess it will hurt having an extra one laying around. Haha!

    That green looks sick on yours. I also ordered some green ODI Ruffian Lock-ons. I'm hoping everything matches somewhat. Gotta look good on the trails to make up for my skills!

    I'll try and get some pictures up after everything comes in.
    Skills will come with time and practice, but looking good NEVER hurts! I love seeing heads turn as to what I am riding - life outside the box is good!

    And I know what you mean on having an extra one laying around - I picked one up yesterday, too - another green one. I couldn't pass up the price even though it was a demo ring with ten "parking lot" miles on it. The Mrs. thinks I am insane...

    BTW, as long as it is green in color, it will go with the Goblin Green as long as it isn't too dark. Any variation is good as it will attract it's own attention in accents. Speaking of which, I hope Santa found that FSA green headset spacer kit to drop in a stocking...


  164. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    135
    Gotta say this thread is great! Love the info and pictures. Helped me with my own 1x project. Turned a 3x8 into 1x8 with a 32t singlespeed chainring and n-gear jump stop. Stock cheapie alivio rd. (not an airborne, but that's in the cards. )

    Anyhow, I'm loving the setup. If you're on the fence, do it! 1x is nice to have.

  165. #165
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    My 1x10 parts are slowing trickling in, the race face ring came in today, these things are seeeexxxyyyy
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  166. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    LOL, provin1327 - I would have to concur! Be sure to post up pictures of your conversion so we can all be a bit jealous.

  167. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,836
    Add this to the rear cogs and you'd have nearly the same range as XX1:

    Just In: OneUp Components 42 Cog for 1×10 Drivetrains | Mountain Bike Review

    I don't know if I'd like the 15-19 shift as that seems like a big gap, but I'll reserve judgement until I try one in person.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  168. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    814
    I was thinking about doing that this winter - go 1x10 with the 42 cog. Couldn't you replace the 15 and the 17 with a 16t cog to minimize the jump (16-19 rather than 15-19?)

    I'd like to go single speed but 30-36 isn't quite enough for some of the longer steep climbs around here. I could probably hammer it out but over roots hammering gets you wheelspin. 30-42 or even 32-42 (1.5) would get me a gear inch closer to the 22-36 (1.2) than 32-36 (1.8)
    Eric

  169. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Add this to the rear cogs and you'd have nearly the same range as XX1:

    Just In: OneUp Components 42 Cog for 1×10 Drivetrains | Mountain Bike Review

    I don't know if I'd like the 15-19 shift as that seems like a big gap, but I'll reserve judgement until I try one in person.

    Jeremy
    Oh my! Now that is a great idea - might be easier to get a 9 speed setup to add that 42T?

  170. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Oh my! Now that is a great idea - might be easier to get a 9 speed setup to add that 42T?
    I don't think that would work. 9 speed cassettes have wider spacing than 10 speed cassettes. It'd be awesome if it did though!

  171. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Oh, ok - I had no idea the spacing was different. 16T hunt instead!

  172. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Oh, ok - I had no idea the spacing was different. 16T hunt instead!
    There is some talk in this thread about options as far as finding a 16t to replace your 17t....the most cost effective solution seems to involve taking a 16t cog from a road bike cassette.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=850712

  173. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    814
    I believe this one would work
    Miche Shimano 16t Middle Position Cog 10 Speed from ModernBike.com

    As far as I understand, most cogs 16t and smaller are interchangeable within their pattern, I.E. Shimano/SRAM and Campy

    More info from the infamous Sheldon Brown
    Shimano-compatible 10-speed Cassettes
    Eric

  174. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    There is some talk in this thread about options as far as finding a 16t to replace your 17t....the most cost effective solution seems to involve taking a 16t cog from a road bike cassette.

    WolfTooth Components Thread
    Very true - was thinking not having to change riding style to accommodate that extra gear.

  175. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    92

    1x10 on the (fairly) Cheap

    I just upgraded my Salsa Spearfish from 2x10 to 1x10 and love it. Including purchasing a new front and rear type 2 RD, it cost about $350.

    See the details here.

  176. #176
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    I've got a question for anyone who cares to answer:

    On the 30T RF ring, the chainline is a little less than optimal for riding low gearing, so I got some 2mm spacers. Thing is...the RF ring's built in spacers have little integrated sleeves that drop into the holes in the spider. This perfectly centers the hole in the ring on the hole in the spider and effectively replaces the stock male/female style chainring bolts that normally fill the spider bolt hole and center the ring.

    The trouble is that the 2mm spacers space the integrated sleeve out of the spider's hole. The mounting blocks + the shoulder on the spider still keep the ring centered in relation to the crank's center axle (at least with a 2mm spacer it does. Much more and it wouldn't) but don't keep the ring from possibly spinning a bit until the ring rests against the shank of the bolt if the torque initially applied to the bolts fails to keep it from doing so.

    So what did you do? Have you had trouble with loosening bolts? What did you do to keep the ring hole centered over the spider hole? Is there a chainring bolt with a wider shoulder on it?

    I'm reconsidering my choice of a chainring spacer instead of spacing the BB over.

  177. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Did you get one of the goblins without the bb spacers installed? There should be a 2.5 mm spacer on each side between the bb cup and frame. My chainline is just about centered on my cassette with a spacer on each side, but I suppose you could move it inward if you wanted to

  178. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    Did you get one of the goblins without the bb spacers installed? There should be a 2.5 mm spacer on each side between the bb cup and frame. My chainline is just about centered on my cassette with a spacer on each side, but I suppose you could move it inward if you wanted to
    No mine has the BB spacers but I chose to space the ring over just because my heels (sz 12) already hit the chainstays on occasion already. So I figured that the chainring spacers would be the way to go. Now I'm not at all sure I was right. I will probably pull the BB spacer from the drive side and put it on the other and get rid of the ring spacers.

    The chainline looks pretty straight and runs smoothest between 4th and 6th gear now with the 2mm. spacer. Before that, it ran smoothest in 5th to 7th. Since my riding tends to be on hilly singletrack, I felt that getting it centered or even slightly inboard was pretty important...especially for the uphill sections where the greatest amount of effort/wear and tear occurs.

  179. #179
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeinMinn View Post
    No mine has the BB spacers but I chose to space the ring over just because my heels (sz 12) already hit the chainstays on occasion already. So I figured that the chainring spacers would be the way to go. Now I'm not at all sure I was right. I will probably pull the BB spacer from the drive side and put it on the other and get rid of the ring spacers.

    The chainline looks pretty straight and runs smoothest between 4th and 6th gear now with the 2mm. spacer. Before that, it ran smoothest in 5th to 7th. Since my riding tends to be on hilly singletrack, I felt that getting it centered or even slightly inboard was pretty important...especially for the uphill sections where the greatest amount of effort/wear and tear occurs.
    If you can't find a good option for the ring spacers, you can always just leave it as is with a slightly less than optimal chainline. Look at it this way....2x10 is set up so there are no unusable gears. Meaning that even in the big ring/ large cog combo there is very little added friction or wear and tear. With the 30t, the center line of the teeth are moved in 2mm from where your old big cog was, so I really dont think there's any need to be super concerned with perfectly centered chainline with your current set up.

    Another thing to mention, that noisiness that you hear when pedaling in the big cog....that seems to go away as the ring wears in. Either that or i just got used to it lol.

    Also keep in mind your fitness will probably improve over time, meaning you'll be pushing bigger gears and hopefully spending less time in the big cog!

    Hope that gives a little perspective. All things I thought of when doing my own switch to 1x10

  180. #180
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    Good point. In fact, looking at it, the RF ring splits the difference between the big and small stock rings.
    Last edited by MikeinMinn; 12-23-2013 at 05:07 PM. Reason: clarification

  181. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8iking VIIking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1,252

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeinMinn View Post
    Good point. In fact, looking at it, the RF ring splits the difference between the big and small stock rings.
    Yep, close enough for me! Have you removed any links from your chain? Some say you should remove 2, I've removed 1 so far and haven't had any drops

  182. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    I removed just 1 as well. In low gear my RD (short) cage is at about a 45 degree angle. That seems to be the recommendation. Plus, just doing the chain wrap test, I couldn't see how taking more out would work. It looked like taking 1.5 links would work if such a thing were possible. So far it shifts well both on the stand and on the road.

  183. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I ended up using the 2mm spacers along with moving the BB spacer to the non-drive side, and removed two links. This seems to get very even wear on both sides of the chainring, and a nice chainline. So far, I love this setup, although I will be looking into the OneUp 42T to add to the cassette for better hill climbs. I found out that I do not have enough on steeper climbs with snow on the trail to plow through.

    @MikeMinn - even though you are using spacers, simply start each one before locking them down to ensure you get even tension and spacing, just like changing a spare on your car. It is also advised to use LocTite so the bolts do not back out. Another note, since you are using spacers, it is ESSENTIAL that you get longer chainring bolts to make up the difference. I would consider getting some 10 or 12mm bolts to ensure you have enough contact with the chainring. Using the innner chainring bolts with spacers drops the overall length to 6mm, which may not be enough under torque.

    Here is a shot with 12mm bolts - notice they fill the entire ring:


    RFCrankbolts1 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

  184. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    Soul Chicken, you must really spend most of your time climbing! With just the 2mm spacer my chain is centered. So it runs smoothly in 4th to 6th and gets just a little bit rough by the time it's in first or tenth gear.

    Yes I did install the ring exactly as you mentioned using 2mm spacers and 12.5mm bolts that had complete pass-through. It just bothers me that there is so much space around the bolt as it passes through the spider. Seems to me that, if it got loose, the ring would rotate a bit. Maybe that would never happen, but I like the mechanical connection as RF designed it just in case it did. Out of curiosity, what torque did you use and what color locktite? How many trouble-free miles have you put on this set-up?

  185. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    As of today's ride, I have racked up 150 miles with the N/W. As far as torque, I went with Race Face specs (the 12mm bolts are from Race Face) at 100 inch pounds. I also used the blue LocTite to secure them. I can understand your hesitation, but if you installed everything correctly, you should be just fine without worry of failure. If anything, my legs would fail me first! I checked today after reading your post, and found that I have not had any of the bolts come loose yet. If you (or I) ever need to take them out, simply apply a gentle heat from a heat gun to help get the bolts removed.

    I am in the high desert, so there is plenty of climbing out here - just sitting at the house I am at 5425 feet. Average climb is around 500 to 1000 feet for every ride around here, plus more for the taking if you go a bit further north at the base of the mountains. For those rides in the coming season, I think it would help me to add the OneUp 42T cog - just need to justify the cost at this point.

  186. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    302
    Thanks for the info. I got the RF bolts as well but the torque specs were not on the packaging anywhere (plastic baggie) so I had just gone with some general recommendations I found; 9 Newtons. So I guess I'll be needing to add a couple.

    If you go with the 42T ring, do you expect to need a new chain as well?

    I envy your location right now (not so much in the Summer ) Yesterday we had 31 below zero at my house. Plus we've got at least 14" of snow on the ground....in other words, fat bikes only.

    Merry Christmas!!

  187. #187
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    I would assume a new chain is in order since you would be adding more teeth to the setup - would need to find something longer to compensate. As far as torque specs, I had to do some digging around to find them.

    The summer really isn't that bad here as long as you ride in the morning, or the evening. 31 below? NO THANKS! I love that it is going to be 45 degrees here today, and through the rest of the week with a shot of 50's next week. I am very thankful for the long seasons out here. There is still snow on the trails in spots where the sun doesn't shine, and I really dig hearing the crunch of the snow and ice under the wheels - great stuff.

    I hope all of you have a great Christmas - it's almost time for me to start digging into the new goodies for the Goblin!

  188. #188
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    When going from a 9 speed cassette to a 10 speed, did you guys use your 9 speed chain? I read that 10 speed chains are more narrow and must be used with 10 speed cassettes, is this true?
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  189. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    When going from a 9 speed cassette to a 10 speed, did you guys use your 9 speed chain? I read that 10 speed chains are more narrow and must be used with 10 speed cassettes, is this true?
    8 and 9 speed drivetrains have a wider chain than 10 speed setups - you did read correctly. They are wider to make up the difference - 8 and 9 speeds take up the same amount of space as a 10 speed, hence the wider chain. If you are changing to a 10 speed, I would upgrade the chain to avoid headaches. You should be able to find a PC1051 on Amazon for about 30 bucks. You could also go with KMC if you need to save a few more dollars. Good luck!

  190. #190
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    Awesome, its still winter here and I havent been doing much riding, going to borrow a chain whip and lock ring tool from a friend to replace the cassette and now put on a new chain, pics when done
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  191. #191
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Looking forward to it Provin1327! Still winter here (in the desert ), but still riding. I tried a new trail out yesterday, crashed twice, but I had a BLAST! Video is uploading as we speak - or should I say - as I type.

  192. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation: strfyeing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    36
    I just picked up a Race Face 32t NW and a new X9 Type II that I'm going to be installing next week on my X7 Hobgoblin. Seems like most people went with the 30t, but I was concerned that I would spin out so I went with the 32t. I almost never use the 24t granny gear in the current 2x setup so I figure I won't miss it. Since I spend all my time in the 38t ring I feel like the 32t should be a good fit. I'm really excited to drop the FD and shifter/cable. Are any of you using a plate to cover up the direct mount? I'll post up some pictures once I've installed everything. Now I just wish I could ride, everything out here is a sloppy mess from the snow melt...

  193. #193
    Resident Gear Head
    Reputation: provin1327's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    547
    Got out for the first real ride of the year yesterday. My new x9 shifter is a little finnacky on upshifting but Im hoping its nothing major. The gearing is great, I only had to drop into the 42 cog once and there were other climbs where I was surprised to see I still had two more gears until I was at the end of the cassette.

    I am getting a bit more wear on the outside (the drive side) of the chain ring than on the inside. Is this a problem or should it be expected in a 1x set up?

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    Last edited by provin1327; 03-22-2014 at 07:52 AM.
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  194. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    Got out for the first real ride of the year yesterday. My new x9 shifter is a little finnacky on upshifting but Im hoping its nothing major. The gearing is great, I only had to drop into the 42 cog once and there were other climbs where I was surprised to see I still had two more gears until I was at the end of the cassette.

    I am getting a bit more wear on the outside (the drive side) of the chain ring than on the inside. Is this a problem or should it be expected in a 1x set up?

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
    Does your bike have BB spacers? You could move the drive side spacer to the non-drive side (this would put two on the non-drive side) to help move the chainring in a bit for the wear, or you could add crank spacers to do the same thing. Seems to be a normal thing as I ran into the same issue you have, so I did move my spacer plus add crank spacers, and now the wear is much more even. Good luck!

  195. #195
    mtbr member
    Reputation: strfyeing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    36

    1x10 conversion complete

    Just finished installing a 32t race face NW and X9 type 2 RD. Took a bit longer than I expected, partly because I had a hard time getting the cranks off. I was on so tight I was questioning which way it was threaded(counter clockwise takes it off incase the next guy has the same problem). I ended up having to add an extension to my hex to get enough leverage to break it loose. So here's what she looks like now I haven't had a chance to take her for a spin yet, it was pouring rain at the time. Seems to be shifting well though, can't wait to try it out!

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-image.jpg

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-image.jpg

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-image.jpg

  196. #196
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KrazyKreitzer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    451

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    I need to stay way from this thread...

  197. #197
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    72

    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKreitzer View Post
    I need to stay way from this thread...
    I know what you mean. I'm getting a bad case of GAS (gear acquisition syndrome).

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  198. #198
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by strfyeing View Post
    Just finished installing a 32t race face NW and X9 type 2 RD. Took a bit longer than I expected, partly because I had a hard time getting the cranks off. I was on so tight I was questioning which way it was threaded(counter clockwise takes it off incase the next guy has the same problem). I ended up having to add an extension to my hex to get enough leverage to break it loose. So here's what she looks like now I haven't had a chance to take her for a spin yet, it was pouring rain at the time. Seems to be shifting well though, can't wait to try it out!
    Great looking rig! Let us know how you like the new setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKreitzer View Post
    I need to stay way from this thread...
    Quote Originally Posted by Tokomojo View Post
    I know what you mean. I'm getting a bad case of GAS (gear acquisition syndrome).
    Come to the Dark Side - we have cookies!!

  199. #199
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gunner66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by strfyeing View Post
    Just finished installing a 32t race face NW and X9 type 2 RD. Took a bit longer than I expected, partly because I had a hard time getting the cranks off. I was on so tight I was questioning which way it was threaded(counter clockwise takes it off incase the next guy has the same problem). I ended up having to add an extension to my hex to get enough leverage to break it loose. So here's what she looks like now I haven't had a chance to take her for a spin yet, it was pouring rain at the time. Seems to be shifting well though, can't wait to try it out!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	137 
Size:	181.9 KB 
ID:	880508

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	130 
Size:	170.8 KB 
ID:	880507

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	127 
Size:	148.6 KB 
ID:	880506
    That is exactly what I am wanting to do to my HG minus the X9 RD. Did you have any bad experiences with the X7? Just curious.

    My master plan is 32t up front and adding a 40t cog to the cassette.

  200. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s0ul_chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    1,767
    Quote Originally Posted by gunner66 View Post
    That is exactly what I am wanting to do to my HG minus the X9 RD. Did you have any bad experiences with the X7? Just curious.

    My master plan is 32t up front and adding a 40t cog to the cassette.
    The X7 works fine, but there is no telling how well it will work once the N/W starts to wear down. Having a clutch on the RD will keep the chain in place no matter how worn the N/W ring is.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. will this cheap XTR work for 1x10?
    By RTM in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-15-2012, 11:13 AM
  2. 3x10 -> 1x10 or 2x10 -> 1x10...which is better?
    By savechief in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-07-2012, 06:13 PM
  3. Warm Riding Boots on the Cheap - Really Cheap
    By Shark in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-19-2012, 02:35 PM
  4. 29er shock and wheelset-cheap cheap!!!!
    By beenthere in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-05-2004, 11:32 PM

Members who have read this thread: 1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.