SRAM NX 1x11 cog replacements- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New question here. SRAM NX 1x11 cog replacements

    I have a 2018 Trek Fuel EX 7 29er (specs here; all stock). Maybe 500-750 miles. Just replaced chain for the first time (sram pc x1). Shifter cable replaced. Hanger straightened. Still not shifting well (LBS x 2 has tried); front cog doing fine. They say next step is to try the rear cogs. They don't look worn to me but I'm willing to try at this point. If that doesn't work, then rear derailleur is next.

    1) Are there other options besides the cogs I have on now? SRAMPG-1130, 11-42, 11-speed. I've read that 42 is the highest this setup will take. I don't need the lightest or best. Just good value.

    2) Does this setup require a spacer with the rear hub/derailleur? Someone on reddit asked if I were missing when trying to troubleshoot the shifting. I have no idea. (see picture)

    3) Are my hubs SRAM XD compatible?

    4) If I purchased NX Eagle what parts of the drive-train would I have to get to take advantage of the 11-50 chainrings? Chainrings and rear derailleur?

    Thanks for helping me learn.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM NX 1x11 cog replacements-rear-mech.jpg  


  2. #2
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    SRAM NX 1x11 cog replacements

    SRAM PG1130 is a Shimano-driver. Not XD driver compatible

    You can also consider a Sun-race 11-46, Ive read this works with a NX long cage derailuer to give you a little lower granny gear. Im going to try it myself.


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  3. #3
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    Cassette, RD, RD pulleys, hanger, rear axle all good/no looseness? Eyeball the cogs as the wheel spins to check if any are bent. If it's not shifting well and hanger and RD adjustments are all good (B screw, limits, tension), the next thing I'd suspect is the cable. I'd check it out first but would likely replace the cable and housing.

    The only reason I've replaced my cassettes is when the skip with a new chain, or are visibly damaged.
    What, me worry?

  4. #4
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    Was it shifting well before the new chain?

  5. #5
    jrm
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    Before you spend more money

    id suggest getting a new hanger

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by toadmeister View Post
    SRAM PG1130 is a Shimano-driver. Not XD driver compatible
    Thanks for the info.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Cassette, RD, RD pulleys, hanger, rear axle all good/no looseness? Eyeball the cogs as the wheel spins to check if any are bent. If it's not shifting well and hanger and RD adjustments are all good (B screw, limits, tension), the next thing I'd suspect is the cable. I'd check it out first but would likely replace the cable and housing.
    Yes, no looseness on those items. And the LBS changed out the shifting cable to rule out dirt/grime trapped in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by grubetown View Post
    Was it shifting well before the new chain?
    It wasn't perfect but it was close enough. To be honest though, I don't recall if this issue really happened right after the new chain or after a ride where I had a spill. I lean towards the latter. After one ride, I felt a lot of grinding. I thought it was my bb or cranks, but LBS worked it down to the back. They check the hub, cable, hanger, etc. Next for them is the cogs.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    id suggest getting a new hanger
    LBS straightened the hanger. They think it looks good.

  7. #7
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    I've now had two LBS's look at it and neither could fix it. Both said hanger, derailleur, and shifter look fine. Cogs show some wear but really they thought those were fine too. The shifting is terrible. I'm ready to buy a new derailleur, shifter and cogs to see if I can fix the problem (about $200 + labor - may try myself).

    Before I do - a reddit user thought maybe my chain was too close to the derailleur and thought I was missing a spacer. Looks like the SRAM NX 11-42t cassette I have needs a 1.85mm spacer, but since I've never removed the cogs I can't imagine I don't have that one. And I've only removed my thru axle a couple of times and I don't think there would be a spacer on that that would fall off if removed, right?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by iSeeker View Post
    I've now had two LBS's look at it and neither could fix it. Both said hanger, derailleur, and shifter look fine. Cogs show some wear but really they thought those were fine too. The shifting is terrible. I'm ready to buy a new derailleur, shifter and cogs to see if I can fix the problem (about $200 + labor - may try myself).

    Before I do - a reddit user thought maybe my chain was too close to the derailleur and thought I was missing a spacer. Looks like the SRAM NX 11-42t cassette I have needs a 1.85mm spacer, but since I've never removed the cogs I can't imagine I don't have that one. And I've only removed my thru axle a couple of times and I don't think there would be a spacer on that that would fall off if removed, right?
    Most 11spd cassettes require no spacer. Tech support from your mnf can confirm that.

    I'd hate for you to buy a new deraileur and not solve the problem.

    My experience, after some bang-ups shifting just suffers. It's the nature of the fickle beast. I do spend some time tweaking and tuning best I can but there's limited returns too. I can live with a bit of imperfection and just go with it until it's time to replace things due to regular wear.

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  9. #9
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    It's not hard to sort out if the cassette is the issue. Your not specifying where it shifts badly, what gears? If it's all of them but chain alignment is good on all of them, could be the chain or the cassette. Even be the b-limit adjustment is off.

    Fyi dont waste money going nx eagle. Go to at least GX (the cassette can be sx/nx) shifter and derailleur. Nothing has to be done in the front. To go 12 speed its shifts, chain, cassette, and derailleur. Just make sure to get gx shifter and derailluer or you'll be back in this same boat next season.



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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by iSeeker View Post
    Thanks for the info.

    Yes, no looseness on those items. And the LBS changed out the shifting cable to rule out dirt/grime trapped in there.

    It wasn't perfect but it was close enough. To be honest though, I don't recall if this issue really happened right after the new chain or after a ride where I had a spill. I lean towards the latter. After one ride, I felt a lot of grinding. I thought it was my bb or cranks, but LBS worked it down to the back. They check the hub, cable, hanger, etc. Next for them is the cogs.

    LBS straightened the hanger. They think it looks good.
    This is suspect. Usually straightening a hangar is stop-gap measure while you wait on a new hangar, but you've compromised the metal and it doesn't have the original strength, so assuming you have managed to get it perfectly straight, it can easily get bend out of shape now with the inherent weakness present. Cheaper bikes have fixed hangars and the shop usually does the best they can with them, but this is also often steel and stronger than softer aluminum hangars.

    It's not common that cassettes like these are the cause of shifting issues. While there are reasons for poor shifting performance related to the chain, b-tension adjustment, hangar alignment, derailleur alignment and function, etc., it's very very rare that it's a cassette and at that, it would likely visible if it was the issue.

    I just bought an XT 11-42 cassette to replace an XTR. The longevity was ok, but nothing comes close to the X01s I'm running on other bikes, they keep going season after season. If you really want to try a new cassette, I'd suggest an XT or SLX 11-speed, thoes are at least decent quality cassettes and shouldn't suffer from any big issues, but again, I highly doubt it's the cassette, that is just so rare.

    My last hard-to-solve shifting problem was a bent derailleur. The shifting slowly decayed and I just took it for normal, it was never real bad, but when I put on a new derailleur it was obvious (there were a couple other clues as to the bent nature).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by toadmeister View Post
    Most 11spd cassettes require no spacer. Tech support from your mnf can confirm that.
    The SRAM website for this cassette says "11-42t cassette fits 10 and 11-speed non-XD driver bodies (1.85mm spacer is required for 11-speed drivers ". that is a small spacer and I'm not sure how to see if mine has it. Just running down the troubleshooting tree.

    agreed on shifting not being perfect after a bangup. I've always been fine dealing with some trimming. But this is really bad right now.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by iSeeker View Post
    The SRAM website for this cassette says "11-42t cassette fits 10 and 11-speed non-XD driver bodies (1.85mm spacer is required for 11-speed drivers ". that is a small spacer and I'm not sure how to see if mine has it. Just running down the troubleshooting tree.

    agreed on shifting not being perfect after a bangup. I've always been fine dealing with some trimming. But this is really bad right now.
    The spacer is only needed if you have an 11 speed road freehub. Unless you are running road wheels on your mountain bike, you do not need a spacer. For a mountain bike wheel 10 and 11 speed HG freehubs are identical and do not need spacers with an 11 speed cassette.

    Cassettes go bad in one of two ways:

    1. Teeth break of bend. This one is obvious.
    2. The teeth wear out. This can be hard to tell visually, but is quickly realized when you put a new chain on and the chain skips under hard pedaling.

    Only #1 is going to give you poor shifting, and a visual inspection would easily find this. So there is not anything wrong with your cassette. So its going to be one of the following.

    1. Bent derailleur hanger (or frame)
    2. Dirty,worn or poorly routed cable housing
    3. Bent/broken derailleur or pulleys
    4. Broken shifter

    Most of the time its number 1 or 2.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Your not specifying where it shifts badly, what gears? If it's all of them but chain alignment is good on all of them, could be the chain or the cassette. Even be the b-limit adjustment is off.
    I took some videos and pictures of my current shifting (youtube video). Pictures of alignment. After some add'l barrel adjusting, it shifts the worst from smallest cog to next smallest. But then also down from 3rd largest to 4th largest. Does decent on the stand, but much worse performance with load.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Fyi dont waste money going nx eagle. Go to at least GX (the cassette can be sx/nx) shifter and derailleur. Nothing has to be done in the front. To go 12 speed its shifts, chain, cassette, and derailleur. Just make sure to get gx shifter and derailluer or you'll be back in this same boat next season.
    Thanks for confirming about the front. To confirm on the rear: are you saying you recommend going with eagle (which would require an XD driver) but only if GX (i.e. - not eagle NX). Or, are you saying stick with non-eagle but do GX? If I stay with my current non-XD hub, I'm planning NX cassette, GX derailleur and GX shifter.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    This is suspect. Usually straightening a hangar is stop-gap measure while you wait on a new hangar, but you've compromised the metal and it doesn't have the original strength, so assuming you have managed to get it perfectly straight, it can easily get bend out of shape now with the inherent weakness present. Cheaper bikes have fixed hangars and the shop usually does the best they can with them, but this is also often steel and stronger than softer aluminum hangars.
    This is my hanger - Aircraft grade 6061. It wasn't bent far, but I hear your point. Maybe it is worth getting a new one before the cassette to see if it helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It's not common that cassettes like these are the cause of shifting issues. While there are reasons for poor shifting performance related to the chain, b-tension adjustment, hangar alignment, derailleur alignment and function, etc., it's very very rare that it's a cassette and at that, it would likely visible if it was the issue.
    I've had 2 shops re-adjust everything and i've done it myself. The only new element is the chain. I (LBS) put on a sram pc x1 from my 600-mile used SRAM PC-1110. Maybe I will buy the cheap chain again and try it out. I don't think they measured the links with the rear shock fully decompressed...maybe that makes a difference. Probably a cheap test before new drivetrain components.

    So, I think I'll try (a) a new PC-1110 chain, then (b) a new hanger, then move on to the bigger stuff.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    The spacer is only needed if you have an 11 speed road freehub. Unless you are running road wheels on your mountain bike, you do not need a spacer. For a mountain bike wheel 10 and 11 speed HG freehubs are identical and do not need spacers with an 11 speed cassette.
    Good to know. Thank you. The SRAM website is not clear on that in the initial description.


    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    1. Bent derailleur hanger (or frame)
    2. Dirty,worn or poorly routed cable housing
    3. Bent/broken derailleur or pulleys
    4. Broken shifter
    1 - it was slightly bent. LBS trued it. But might be worth purchasing a new one before more expensive components. Though from my pics, it is pretty straight.
    2 - this was replaced at LBS. Did not help.
    3 - It does look to me like my derailleur leans inward some...just a tad.
    4 - my shifter "works" as far as I can tell.

    LBS thought cogs, shifter, derailleur were all fine, but they couldn't identify what was wrong.

    I mentioned above - might be worth: new hanger and chain to rule out the cheaper parts before all the others.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by iSeeker View Post


    1 - it was slightly bent. LBS trued it. But might be worth purchasing a new one before more expensive components. Though from my pics, it is pretty straight.
    :
    The type of bending that could cause this is not easily seen by the naked eye, in many cases it cannot be seen.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by iSeeker View Post
    1 - it was slightly bent. LBS trued it. But might be worth purchasing a new one before more expensive components. Though from my pics, it is pretty straight.
    with bikes it is even worse than with cars... you only need to go to a mechanic if you do not have proper set of tools to get a job done yourself - usually to depress something, or hot mount, or cut/weld, but this simple stuff needs no LBS with their imbeciles.

    they 'trued' your hanger? i can only envision some 17 yr old smashing it with a hammer.
    just go to amazon, get all the new parts. new parts are cheaper than a hip/knee surgery. it is even worth to get a prime account if you do not have it, so you could return any parts back easy if they will not be needed.
    watch some youtubes -
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAUb5QyL1oc

    this whole job is very simple. like others said - get a GX derailleur, new hanger, there is a 12 speed NX cassette if you want it too that can be used on your shimano hub - but most likely is it not the reason of issues you got. try it, once you get a hang of it - it is not that difficult.

  18. #18
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    @utkinpaul - yes, very simple if youve done it before or had someone show you. For those of us not mechanically inclined, it is a little intimidating.

    I removed and cleaned the cassette (hard to get off since the hubs are so notched), filed the freehub some, re-greased the pawls and springs (might add more pawls), and oiled the derailluer hinges. The lock ring on the cassette was really easy to remove...seemed too easy.

    Lo and behold, my shifting has really improved. Cool cool

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