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  1. #1
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    Rear Rim for Specialized Camber 29

    Anyone knows where I could purchase a new affordable rim for my Specialized Camber 29. The bike shop told me that my rear is damaged and they told me to get double wall which is stronger than single wall. thanks.

  2. #2
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    Just get a whole wheel. The hub in your current wheel isn't worth rebuilding with a new rim. Something like this. Rim has internal reinforcements, hub is much better than what you have
    Hope Tech Enduro - Pro 4 MTB Rear Wheel | Chain Reaction Cycles

  3. #3
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    how badly damaged is the rim?

    I have had good luck with WTB Frequency Team rims. pick the width you want and you're good. if you're just buying a rim, you'll probably need new spokes as well as the old spokes might not be the correct length to re-lace the new rim to the wheel. those spokes have to be within about 1.5 mm of correct or it won't work.

    the bike should have come with a double-wall rim, but the quality and strength of those varies widely still. you'd be hard-pressed to find a quality bike with single-wall rims these days, and even harder to find an after-market singlewall rim. also, the skill of the wheelbuilder (probably a machine) and the mechanic who sent the bike out the door has a lot to do with how long a wheel lasts. spoke tension needs to be checked and maintained on a new bike.

    unless your bike has some really nice, high quality hub, it might make more sense to replace the whole wheel.
    Last edited by mack_turtle; 06-19-2018 at 08:58 AM.

  4. #4
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    24 and 28 hole rims on that bike? No thanks. How about a set of Stans Flows or Arches with 32 holes laced up to Bike Hub Store hubs. This whole thing could be built up for a reasonable cost.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by young View Post
    Specialized Camber 29. The bike shop told me that my rear is damaged and they told me to get double wall which is stronger than single wall. thanks.
    You need a new bike shop, if they really think the rim on that Camber is singlewall they don't know what they are doing. Full suspension bikes do not come with singlewall rims. Beach cruisers do. That rim isn't amazing, but sure isn't a singlewall...
    Deflated - buy parts to sell parts to buy more parts.. bikes are my drug of choice

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    24 and 28 hole rims on that bike? No thanks. How about a set of Stans Flows or Arches with 32 holes laced up to Bike Hub Store hubs. This whole thing could be built up for a reasonable cost.
    Yep. Spech usually specs 24/28, making rebuilding with those hubs a non-starter IMO.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    You need a new bike shop, if they really think the rim on that Camber is singlewall they don't know what they are doing. Full suspension bikes do not come with singlewall rims. Beach cruisers do. That rim isn't amazing, but sure isn't a singlewall...
    They probably meant it's not internally boxed.

  7. #7
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    Thanks to Specialized I don't buy whole bikes anymore. Just frames. In 2008, I spent 3500 dollars on a Stumpjumper FSR 29er and the wheels were absolute garbage. I was going to swap out the rims because the rear hub said DT Swiss on it but thankfully I disassembled the hub first and realized it was not a good DT hub but some low end crap that I'm sure Specialized bought thousands of so they could spec the bike with DT hubs.
    At least they were 32 hole but that's really all they had going for them.
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  8. #8
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    If your bike uses a thru axle and shimano free hub buy this. A wheel build will cost you $60. Spokes: $80. Cheap rim: $60. Even replacing the oem rim will still likely cost $120. This is an absurdly good deal.DT Swiss X1700 Spline MTB Rear Wheel | Chain Reaction Cycles

    It would even be worth it go get the front wheel to go with it. DT Swiss X1700 Spline MTB Front Wheel | Chain Reaction Cycles

    If you run like 2.25 or 2.3 tires at the proper pressure it will help to protect your rims. I like to follow stans guide for rim pressure. https://www.facebook.com/notes/quiet...50702370141869

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Thanks to Specialized I don't buy whole bikes anymore. Just frames. In 2008, I spent 3500 dollars on a Stumpjumper FSR 29er and the wheels were absolute garbage.
    Ha. The last complete I bought was also a 2008 stumpy fsr. Yes, those wheels sucked and I had a load of problems with the brain shock. And the avid brakes. Oh, and I tore open both S works tires within the first week.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    how badly damaged is the rim?

    I have had good luck with WTB Frequency Team rims. pick the width you want and you're good. if you're just buying a rim, you'll probably need new spokes as well as the old spokes might not be the correct length to re-lace the new rim to the wheel. those spokes have to be within about 1.5 mm of correct or it won't work.

    the bike should have come with a double-wall rim, but the quality and strength of those varies widely still. you'd be hard-pressed to find a quality bike with single-wall rims these days, and even harder to find an after-market singlewall rim. also, the skill of the wheelbuilder (probably a machine) and the mechanic who sent the bike out the door has a lot to do with how long a wheel lasts. spoke tension needs to be checked and maintained on a new bike.

    unless your bike has some really nice, high quality hub, it might make more sense to replace the whole wheel.
    I put WTB Frequency rims on my Specialized Hard tail 29er. I'm 230 lbs and the rims are damn near bulletproof. They take a pounding in New England's rooty/rocky trails and hold up just fine.

    The rear wheel was built with a DTSwiss 350 hub and it has also been bulletproof. I went through two Specialized free hubs and two Shimano XT freehubs in a couple years but my DTSwiss hub has been trouble free for just as long.
    AreBee

  11. #11
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    guys thanks for your inputs. I dont know what caused it. Maybe it is just a crappy wheel. I had biked my cheap mountain bike and both of the wheels held up well on rugged trails before i sold it. The rear wheel started wobbly a bit last year and it had been trued twice and last week, it couldn't be trued since the wobbliness has gotten worse.

    Arebee, I may want the same rim you have. Is your rear wheel "hub" or "gap" size same as mine? The shop measured 148mm.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by young View Post
    guys thanks for your inputs. I dont know what caused it. Maybe it is just a crappy wheel. I had biked my cheap mountain bike and both of the wheels held up well on rugged trails before i sold it. The rear wheel started wobbly a bit last year and it had been trued twice and last week, it couldn't be trued since the wobbliness has gotten worse.

    Arebee, I may want the same rim you have. Is your rear wheel "hub" or "gap" size same as mine? The shop measured 148mm.
    My dropouts are 160MM so I'm pretty sure my hubs are 148MM, they are not boost hubs. Quick release as well, but the hubs offer thru axels too.
    AreBee

  13. #13
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    practically speaking, you can lace any model of conventional hub to any conventional model rim (proprietary spoke systems notwithstanding). a bulletproof option for a custom wheel that is not ultra expensive might be DT Swiss 350 hub, Hope hub, or a Bikehustore.com option, laced to a WTB Frequency Team or Asym rim with DT swiss double butted spokes.

    it sounds like your frame and hub are Boost, which is the 148mm axle spacing. conventional hubs are 135mm or 142mm wide, while 148 is the newer Boost standard, which requires a different hub, not just a different axle.

  14. #14
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    I looked up the spec about my bike. The spacing is 142 mm. I can't verify if it is a boost. I assume not because it is 142 mm. Would it be safe if i choice 148 mm DT Swiss 350 as a new whole built as the rear wheel replacement? The stock hub has thru axle which I like the feature. The stock hub pictures are attached here.

    Are there specific spoke and nipple size for 142mm and 148mm? The stock spokes for the rear wheel are stainless 2.0 mm and I try to get new or better ones in the same size for long span. I have been dying to resume biking.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear Rim for Specialized Camber 29-20180703_212127_hdr.jpg  

    Rear Rim for Specialized Camber 29-20180703_212114_hdr.jpg  


  15. #15
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    The rear spacing on your bike is 142. 148 hub will not fit. But a 142 hub will. New spokes and nipples will be needed to lace your existing rim to a new hub.

  16. #16
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    indeed, if your frame is designed for a 142mm hub, get a 142mm hub. a 148 will not fit at all. even if you squeeze it in there somehow, the brake caliper and rotor will never line up at all with the boost spacing.

    spoke length will depend on the hub and rim dimensions. look up "spoke calculator." there's a good one on Sheldon Brown's site and DT Swiss should have one you can use. you need to get the correct lengths within 1.5mm of correct or the wheel build will not work. I enjoy building wheels, but it's a big undertaking the first time and the cost of screwing it up is high as well, so I would not recommend it unless you're willing to commit.

    if you're going to build or have a custom wheel built, you can't go wrong with DT Swiss double-butted spokes. they will be listed as 2.0/1.8/2.0 because both ends of the spokes are 2.0 but the middle section of the spoke tapers down to 1.8. this makes for a stronger spoke, IMO.
    Last edited by mack_turtle; 07-13-2018 at 12:50 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    if you're going to build or have a customer wheel built, you can't go wrong with DT Swiss double-butted spokes. they will be listed as 2.0/1.8/2.0 because both ends of the spokes are 2.0 but the middle section of the spoke tapers down to 1.8. this makes for a stronger spoke, IMO.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Custom-l...8AAOxy7rdREcMN

    This guy is a great spoke seller. I build tons of wheels with these spokes. His 64 pack is an even better deal if you build two wheels.
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  18. #18
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    thanks for inputs, guys. I stick with my old hub and I am told that the boost hub is not worth it. Someone has ride a bike with a boost hub and he didn't feel any difference. The rear rim was replaced with WTB frequency. DT Swiss spokes and nipples replaced the old ones also. The replacements were done at a different shop and I dont have skilled hands on truing. I documented every measure as much as I can. Recently, I wanted to test it and made a bit over 8 miles. During the time, the rear wheel hit a small hidden stump really hard and I almost fell. I thought it would be bent already and the rim was still very rigid. Overall, I am happy with the result and I would recommend the frequency model.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by young View Post
    I stick with my old hub and I am told that the boost hub is not worth it. Someone has ride a bike with a boost hub and he didn't feel any difference.
    The boost hub would be worth it if you had a boost frame. you just have to use what hub is appropriate for your frame. it's not a matter of what's better, it's 100% what fits in your frame. a boost hub would be stupid in your case because it simply would not work in your bike at all. I just wanted to make that clear.

    it would be a good idea to get the wheel back in the truing stand after a few rides. newly-built wheels should be de-stressed and ready to ride for the long haul, but the act of riding the bike on a fresh wheel will usually cause the wheel tension to "settle in" a bit, so you'll want to double check that the tension stays after that point.

  20. #20
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    okay thanks mack turtle.

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