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  1. #1
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    new to tubeless question

    I just received tubeless rims and added tires. I fill them up with air to seat the tires, and air is leaking out the spoke holes. I don'd have any sealant in there yet. I wanted to seat the tire and see if there were any leaks. Is there a problem with the rim tape that it is leaking through the holes? Or will the sealant just make the necessary seals?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlaustin View Post
    I just received tubeless rims and added tires. I fill them up with air to seat the tires, and air is leaking out the spoke holes. I don'd have any sealant in there yet. I wanted to seat the tire and see if there were any leaks. Is there a problem with the rim tape that it is leaking through the holes? Or will the sealant just make the necessary seals?
    If the tape is well-applied and the valve stem is installed tightly, I would not expect there to be leaks coming out through spoke holes. I normally do exactly what you did - tape the rim, put the tire on, and seat the beads of the tire on the rim with a compressor - before I ever add sealant, and unless the bead doesn't fully seat, the tire/rim should not leak air.

    I'd take the tire off and check two things:
    1) The tape job: make sure that the edges are firmly pushed down on both sides of the tape all the way around the rim. I really take my time putting the tape on, and making sure that the tape is reasonably centered on the rim. Then I go around each edge of the tape multiple times making sure that it is pushed down as much as possible.

    2) Check your valve stem: make sure that you have tightened against the rim as much as possible. I wouldn't stop at hand tight - I get a pair of pliers and really crank down on it to make the seal between the base of the valve stem and the hole/tape as air tight as possible.

    It goes without saying that their should be no wrinkles in the tape - if there are get more tape and start over again.

    There's a good chance you could add sealant and seal everything up, but you will also likely end up with sealant inside the rim, which I try to avoid as much as possible.

  3. #3
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    I didn't visually see anything wrong with the rim tape. This is a second valve stem I am trying to use. The first one was a Stan's valve stem. I had tightened it by hand and it leaked through the nipples. I tightened that one past hand tight with a wrench, and it then leaked at the stem. So I bought one with an oring on the outside. it is now leaking at the nipples as well. It has been tightened with a wrench. I will try tightening it a tad more to see the results. If it continues to leak, I'll just remove the Stans tape that is on the rim and use Gorilla tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mlaustin View Post
    I didn't visually see anything wrong with the rim tape. This is a second valve stem I am trying to use. The first one was a Stan's valve stem. I had tightened it by hand and it leaked through the nipples. I tightened that one past hand tight with a wrench, and it then leaked at the stem. So I bought one with an oring on the outside. it is now leaking at the nipples as well. It has been tightened with a wrench. I will try tightening it a tad more to see the results. If it continues to leak, I'll just remove the Stans tape that is on the rim and use Gorilla tape.
    How much overlap do you have at the end of the tape? I have never read anything on this, but I start a few inches before the valve stem, go around the entire rim and then stop a few inches after the valve stem. Iíve always preferred having a double layer of tape where the valve stem goes through the tape, and I make sure there is plenty of overlap with the tape before I stop.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SqueakyWheel73 View Post
    How much overlap do you have at the end of the tape? I have never read anything on this, but I start a few inches before the valve stem, go around the entire rim and then stop a few inches after the valve stem. Iíve always preferred having a double layer of tape where the valve stem goes through the tape, and I make sure there is plenty of overlap with the tape before I stop.
    I also always have tension on the tape as I am applying it, and I cut a small X in the tape at the hole for the valve stem before trying to push it through.

    Not sure exactly what matters - this is what Iíve done and Iíve never had a problem.

  6. #6
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    FYI, if you tighten with a wrench and can't loosen the valve stem nut by hand, you're gonna be screwed on the trail if you ever need to. Tightening with a wrench should be unnecessary.

    Your tape job is bunk. Time to redo!

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    The rims were custom made and came with tape. So I guess I am retaping them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    FYI, if you tighten with a wrench and can't loosen the valve stem nut by hand, you're gonna be screwed on the trail if you ever need to. Tightening with a wrench should be unnecessary.

    Your tape job is bunk. Time to redo!
    Hmm... always carry a Leatherman with pliers so I never thought twice about it. But itís been a long time since I had to put a tube in on the trail...

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    Quote Originally Posted by SqueakyWheel73 View Post
    Hmm... always carry a Leatherman with pliers so I never thought twice about it. But itís been a long time since I had to put a tube in on the trail...
    You aren't riding hard enough then.

    Just kidding

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    You aren't riding hard enough then.

    Just kidding
    For the last couple years this is absolutely true. Trying to change it this year, although Iíll still be perfectly happy if I am not trashing tires frequently.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SqueakyWheel73 View Post
    For the last couple years this is absolutely true. Trying to change it this year, although Iíll still be perfectly happy if I am not trashing tires frequently.
    I never have, but flats happen. Just try to include that advice for new guys who might get stranded

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    I agree that the tape is the problem. My very first tubeless attempt was littered with leak after leak using the factory applied tape (I purchased 2nd hand).
    When I retaped, the tire sealed instantaneously without sealant and held air over night.

    I think you should retape. I do not know what it would LOOK like to see a leak. So I don't know if a visual is a good way to say the tape is fine. I mean, I do not have experience to say so, not that I am saying it's not possible.

    Agree with valve stem tightness. Push down on the stem internally and tighten the nut. That should be all you need to do.

    With that said, the Specialized valve stem didn't like to seal. I did have one time where my tire sealed up once I changed the valve stem. The Specialized stems use an o-ring that should become compressed....but doesn't seem like it's the best idea. The Stans style stems work great, just a big rubber block that fits over the hole.
    I used Stans as an example, and while I use Stans, friends have 'pretty colorful ones' from the internet, of whatever brand.

    Good luck! And good job not adding sealant until tire was proven to hold a seal.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    FYI, if you tighten with a wrench and can't loosen the valve stem nut by hand, you're gonna be screwed on the trail if you ever need to. Tightening with a wrench should be unnecessary.
    I second this. My first ride on tubeless resulted in a 12 mile ride home on a flat rear tire even though I had a tube, pump, and tire boot in my jersey pocket. The previous owner of the bike had installed the stems with a wrench and my mult-tool doesn't have pliers.

  14. #14
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    New Member and I put this in the wrong section, Sorry.

    ****** wrong section ****** Sorry I'm new.
    Last edited by sccues; 03-02-2019 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Wrong thread.

  15. #15
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    I used to have issues like this but one thing that has really helped is using rim Tape that is wide enough to go from bead to bead. As far as valve stems are concerned I've found that the Orange Seal ones seal easily but the best have been E13's. Unfortunately they're not cheap though.

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