N/H: How to convert from 2x10 to 1x10- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    N/H: How to convert from 2x10 to 1x10

    I'm a little new, but I want to convert my XTC Composite 29er from a 2x10 to a 1x10. Has the stock X.7 components. I'm looking for a kit, or a list of things I would need to buy.

    If there is already a thread on this, please feel free to link me there. I did a quick search with not much luck. Figured I'd ask the experts.

  2. #2
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    There are different ways of doing it. The obvious start is taking off the front d. and shifter/cable.

    I am going to go the route of putting on a XX1 crank w/ single chain ring and using a XT Rear d. with clutch. I have heard a lot of people doing this with success with no other types of chain retention.

    Another way is using a bashguard (BBG makes a really good bashguard) and some kind of chain keeper on the inside to prevent the chain from dropping on the inside.

    Final thing is to shorten the chain to help reduce slap if you have gone to a smaller chainring than the largest chainring in your 2x setup.

  3. #3
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    How gnarly are the trails you plan to ride? 1x with a clutch rear derailleur should be good if you're riding smoother trails. If you've got more bumpy terrain you might want to look into at least an upper chainguide or upper/lower combo like an MRP G2 or E13 LG1 if you've got really chunky terrain.

    For now, you can just removed the front shifter and cable. Then use the limit screw adjustments on your FD to serve as an upper chainring guide. Resize your chain according to the new chainring and you're good to go.

  4. #4
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    Question: Say you have a Sram PC-1031 chain, do you remove links with a standard chain tool, just don't mess with the special "snap" link?

    I recently went 1x10, but haven't messed with the chain length.

  5. #5
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    Hi CourtneyJay,

    To convert your XTC Composite from 2x10 to 1x10 you'll ideally need a few things:
    - Presuming you have a 2x10 crank, that won't work well for 1x10 as the chain-line in either chainring position won't work well with a chainguide. What model crank do you have exactly? Ideally you want a single-ring specific crank or a triple-ring crank.
    - You'll also want a chainguide. The only style chainguide that will work with that frame (due to the BB92) is a seat-tube mounted model.
    - For the best performance you'll also need a rampless chainring - one designed of 1x9/10 or singlespeeding. These are thicker than stock chainrings and do not have ramps or shifting pins (which can derail your chain)
    - As for rear derailleurs, mid and short cage models work best. Shadow+ or Type 2 are highly recommended when using just a simple upper-only chainguide

    You could go the route of using an XX1 crank/ring - but that is usually not very cost effective. Additionally, at ~$100 each the rings are expensive to replace once worn.
    NOAH SEARS
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  6. #6
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    These are thicker than stock chainrings and do not have ramps or shifting pins

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the advice guys!

    I think I'm gonna start out with the XX1 Crankset (probably quickly followed by an upper guide).

    Gonna wait and see how the derailleur goes. I'm guessing an XO won't be far behind... Here comes the 1x10!

    ...now to starting saving for a wheel set. Stock on my bike are tanks...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by erudition12000 View Post
    Question: Say you have a Sram PC-1031 chain, do you remove links with a standard chain tool, just don't mess with the special "snap" link?

    I recently went 1x10, but haven't messed with the chain length.
    What I have always done is take the quick link out, break the chain to desired length, and put the quick link back in. I feel more confident in that than pushing pins back into a chain with the chain break tool. I have read some quick links are single use, but I either have not dealt with them or didn't care. Quick links are cheap if you are worried about it.

    Keep in mind that the chain that you are using is probably working fine since it is from a working system and all you did was reduced the size of your largest chainring. All you want to do is tighten things up a little bit to reduce chainslap. It is better to have a little bit too much chain than not enough.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado View Post
    You could go the route of using an XX1 crank/ring - but that is usually not very cost effective. Additionally, at ~$100 each the rings are expensive to replace once worn.
    XX1 is definitely not the cheapest alternative, but the OP did not say anything about budget.The XX1 chainring is very brilliantly done with the alternate tooth profile. It is definitely a SS ring and the chain really sticks to it.

  10. #10
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    So quick follow up question. I'm looking at the XX1 and I know I need the GXP fit, but I don't know if I need the 156 or 168 for the Q factor? What's the best way to find out? Like mentioned above the bike is a Giant XTC Composite 29er (2012). Original Crankset is a SRAM S1400 with GXP BB.

  11. #11
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    I just dropped the outside ring on my 2x10, replaced with BBG bash. Installed a n gear chain stop. Works great for my riding. Cost $30 bucks. The single speed crank will give you a better chain line and you will be able to run a bigger range of chainrings.
    When the **** did we get ice cream?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CortneyJay View Post
    So quick follow up question. I'm looking at the XX1 and I know I need the GXP fit, but I don't know if I need the 156 or 168 for the Q factor? What's the best way to find out? Like mentioned above the bike is a Giant XTC Composite 29er (2012). Original Crankset is a SRAM S1400 with GXP BB.
    It's part preference and part what the frame dictates with chainstay clearance issues. In my case, Specialized bikes all need greater than 162 so that made my decision easy for me. Some people like a wide stance and they feel more stable, and some people have narrow hips and like that they aren't pedaling bow legged.

    It looks like your frame takes 156 from this forum.
    Giant XTC Advanced SL - Weight Weenies

    The fat bike cranks have q factors of over 200 FWIW.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    It's part preference and part what the frame dictates with chainstay clearance issues. In my case, Specialized bikes all need greater than 162 so that made my decision easy for me. Some people like a wide stance and they feel more stable, and some people have narrow hips and like that they aren't pedaling bow legged.

    It looks like your frame takes 156 from this forum.
    Giant XTC Advanced SL - Weight Weenies
    Thanks for finding that. I had searched a while and was coming up dry. So if I'm clydesdale the 168 might be better?

    I was thinking it was a one size fits one bike (in most instances). But sounds like either would probably work just fine??

  14. #14
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    It is a preference thing. If you have narrow hips you may like a narrow q-factor, if you have wide hips you may like a wide q-factor. Your knees may dictate what you like more. You may like one over another for no obvious reasons.

    You also may not even be able to tell a difference. The difference is only 12mm overall so 6mm on each side. If fat bike people are not complaining about q factors over 200 it probably isn't that big of a deal. It is probably as debatable as crank lengths and from what I understand is that it is a personal thing that you only find out through trying out different cranks.

    As far as frames, wider is not a problem, but you may have a problem if you go too narrow.

  15. #15
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    Check out the Widget!

    Widgit | Get the MTB chainring that will turn your ride into a lightweight mountain bike.

    Also, the Ring Dinger/ Jumpstop is an easy solution as well!
    adam michigan karate monkey

  16. #16
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    Thanks 'tooclosetosee' ...yeah, the chain has been fine so far, but I have only gotten a few rides in. Definitely better too long than too short.

  17. #17
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    tooclosetosee: Thanks again for the help! I really appreciate it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDam View Post
    Check out the Widget!

    Widgit | Get the MTB chainring that will turn your ride into a lightweight mountain bike.

    Also, the Ring Dinger/ Jumpstop is an easy solution as well!
    Interesting option.

  19. #19
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    What's N/H mean? "No ****" kind of makes it funny, but I have just the slightest doubt that's what you meant.

    Edit: Haha, looks like they added a filter for the slang abbreviation for homosexual...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    What's N/H mean? "No ****" kind of makes it funny, but I have just the slightest doubt that's what you meant.

    Edit: Haha, looks like they added a filter for the slang abbreviation for homosexual...
    Haha! That made me laugh pretty good. ...because converting from 2x to 1x can always be construed as gay.

    N/H --> Need Help. I've seen it in car forums.

  21. #21
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    ...and I'm still laughing each time I read the thread name with "no ****"

  22. #22
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    In case anyone was wondering, here is the update on the project:

    Picked up the SRAM XX1 crankset and installed it on the bike. Naturally I took of the front derailleur, shifter and cables. I took out 1 link from the chain. I took the bike out the same day for a fairly vigorous trail and covered 24 miles that had some pretty 'choppy' sections. In that 24 miles I didn't have one problem with the chain coming off or any chain slap at all (I'm running a lowly X7 rear derailleur). No chain guide - nothing (the stock chain for an 10 speed - not the slick XX1 11 speed chain).

    Mission successful. I'll probably snag an upper chain guide at some point soon, for safe measure, but will hold out on getting a clutch rear derailleur until the X7 gives up the ghost.

    Thanks all for the help!

  23. #23
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    why would you want to run a 1x10 than 2x10?

    The 2x10 is more versatile than 1x10, because you can climb steep hills better than 1x10, unless you are super fit.

  24. #24
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    For many of the same reasons someone would want to run a single speed.

    Reasons...
    Weight (I dropped almost 1.25 pounds going from my S1250 cranks, XT shifter/cable, and X7 FD to just an XX1 crank)
    Simplicity (one less thing to maintain or have break)
    Live in an area that is not mountainous (midwest for me).
    Strong riders that do not need a granny gear (I believe most WC riders ride a 1X system).

    I have seen pictures of a lot of WC riders riding XX1.

    I found myself riding in my large ring 95% of the time on my geared bike. The 5% I rode in my small ring were for hills that I can clear just fine with my SS geared at 32x18. I think I am going to be just fine on my geared bike at 32x36 for my lowest combination. I may buy a 30 chain ring in the future if I foresee needing to climb more.

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