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  1. #1
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    megarange cassettes

    are there a lot of people using those giant platter sized low cogs? i'm thinking of the 48 and 50t cogs out there.
    i have a pedestrian 32t with 10-42, and on the steepest of climbs i'm still one or two cogs down just because i feel like i'd tip over with any lower of a gear, let alone if it hit a bump on the climb.

    would love to hear from people who've actually used one

  2. #2
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    A 32 up front with a 50 rear is still higher gearing than most doubles are in the lowest gear.

    They work fine.

    As do the double set ups with an 11-42 cassette that some people are running now, which are crazy low.

    The technical short steep climbs a harder gear works better.

    I've used mine a time or two, usually crazy steep fire road climbs that are a few miles long.

  3. #3
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    I've got a 30-50 and yes, I use it. Like the other day on a 4-mile, 8-10% climb at 9,000 feet elevation. Loved it.
    You can't buy happiness. But you can buy a bike. And that's pretty close.

  4. #4
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    Using a cassette with a 50T isn't always about the low gear. The lower gears in the back can also mean a larger chainring up front.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vqdriver View Post
    are there a lot of people using those giant platter sized low cogs? i'm thinking of the 48 and 50t cogs out there.
    i have a pedestrian 32t with 10-42, and on the steepest of climbs i'm still one or two cogs down just because i feel like i'd tip over with any lower of a gear, let alone if it hit a bump on the climb.

    would love to hear from people who've actually used one
    I'm about to set up one (30-50), currently waiting for the xtr chain to wear out on my equivalent (24-40) double setup.

    I'm pushing 4 watts/kg and above using 24-40 and still only manage around only 70 avg cadence on a Cat 1 45 minute climb here from where I'm from.

    It really depends on terrain.

    Those who said they don't need the 50T is full of shit. Even the strong/podium-tier riders here use the 50T.

  6. #6
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    It's really terrain dependent. Even 50T is sometimes not low enough in the Sierra.

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  7. #7
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    The whole tipping over at low speed thing is a load of crap.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    The whole tipping over at low speed thing is a load of crap.
    Agreed. I couldn't tell if the OP was just trying to sound macho, or lives in an area with no mountains in sight, or if he's just the baddest mofo I've ever seen on a bike. But a 32 chainring with an 11-42 cassette is a bigger gear than anyone ran with a double or triple chainring setup in years past.

  9. #9
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    hrm. didn't realize it came off that way, not what i meant at all. if anything, i was talking about losing momentum on short punchy climbs that i approach with speed. it's easy to drop too low and spin out, that's not because i'm a strong rider, it's mostly due to the momentum i take into it.
    i get that sustained climbs are totally different and i wasn't referring to that considering i weave all over the place as it is. my pedaling cadence is such that i bob up and down a lot so it just means i do a lot more grinding than spinning.

  10. #10
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    Minor thread derailment ahead:

    What rear derailleur are you guys (and girls) running that's got the range for a 50T rear cog? And please don't say SRAM Eagle... My LBS is sort of anti-Shimano (their words and they wouldn't elaborate) and is having trouble finding a RD to accommodate a 40T rear cog, let alone 50T.

    Back to the thread...

  11. #11
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    A standard SRAM 11 speed MTB RD would accommodate a 40t rear cog. As will Shimano.

    A modified SRAM 11 speed RD with a Garbaruk cage will get you up to 50t.
    Death from Below.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    A standard SRAM 11 speed MTB RD would accommodate a 40t rear cog. As will Shimano.

    A modified SRAM 11 speed RD with a Garbaruk cage will get you up to 50t.
    Should have mentioned I'm running 1X10, but thanks. Seriously considering going 11 speed if the cassette will fit on my existing hub.

  13. #13
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    A 10 speed SRAM Type 2 with a Gabrauk cage will allow you to use their 11-45 10sp cassette.

    11-45T Cassette - Garbaruk Lightweight Components

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    A 10 speed SRAM Type 2 with a Gabrauk cage will allow you to use their 11-45 10sp cassette.

    11-45T Cassette - Garbaruk Lightweight Components
    That is interesting information as I was unaware of anyone making more than a 42t 10spd. Looks to be about $200 for the cassette and longer cage which isnt too bad but at that point you will be close to halfway to paying for a new 11spd setup or possibly 12spd (thinking GX Eagle).

    Caveat is that if you go with a SRAM 11/12spd cassette then you have to move to their XD driver, which is extra cost. From what I have seen, there are no wide/mega range cassettes in the XD driver other than the GX Eagle which is an 11/50 if I remember correctly. Other than that you are going to be stuck with a 11spd+ Shimano freehub.

    Currently I am running a stock SRAM type 2 X0 long cage rd with a Sunrace 11/42 cassette with no issues.

  15. #15
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    When OP said he might tip over running a 50, I just assumed he has terrible balance or something.

    I run a 30 front, with the E13 race cassette (this is XD compatible btw) which has a 46 low gear, on 29" tires.

    The low gear is VERY low and it's needed on some very steep rough climbs in 106 degree weather. The issue I have when going that slow, I don't have the momentum for the ledges and what not.

    I have had single rides where I used the entire 511% range of that rear cassette which is a cool feeling.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    That is interesting information as I was unaware of anyone making more than a 42t 10spd. Looks to be about $200 for the cassette and longer cage which isnt too bad but at that point you will be close to halfway to paying for a new 11spd setup or possibly 12spd (thinking GX Eagle).

    Caveat is that if you go with a SRAM 11/12spd cassette then you have to move to their XD driver, which is extra cost. From what I have seen, there are no wide/mega range cassettes in the XD driver other than the GX Eagle which is an 11/50 if I remember correctly. Other than that you are going to be stuck with a 11spd+ Shimano freehub.

    Currently I am running a stock SRAM type 2 X0 long cage rd with a Sunrace 11/42 cassette with no issues.
    Do you mean "there are no wide/mega range cassettes with the *Shimano* driver"?

    Because Eagle XX1, Eagle XO1, E.13, Garbaruk, etc. are all available for the XD driver.

    You can get a Garbaruk 11-50 (and 11-46, 11-48) 11 speed cassette that uses a standard Shimano type freehub.
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  17. #17
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    I'm using the sunrace 11-50. With either a 30t or 32t. 30x50 is the same as 22x36. On long climbs when you loose momentum it's use full. I don't get the worry about falling over. Ive gone much slower and even standing still in some techy trails.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Do you mean "there are no wide/mega range cassettes with the *Shimano* driver"?

    Because Eagle XX1, Eagle XO1, E.13, Garbaruk, etc. are all available for the XD driver.

    You can get a Garbaruk 11-50 (and 11-46, 11-48) 11 speed cassette that uses a standard Shimano type freehub.
    Sorry should have been more clear and prefaced that as "reasonable cost" most of those are $200+ if not more for just the cassette alone. And really you can find just about anything in the shimano freehub, finding stuff in the XD freehub is a bit harder.. At this point you are still spending close to $200 for the Garbaruk or GX Eagle cassette to get and 11/50. But you can go with a Sunrace or Praxis or multiple other knock-off 11spd 11/50 for less than $150 and in some cases, less than $100.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by vqdriver View Post
    are there a lot of people using those giant platter sized low cogs? i'm thinking of the 48 and 50t cogs out there.
    i have a pedestrian 32t with 10-42, and on the steepest of climbs i'm still one or two cogs down just because i feel like i'd tip over with any lower of a gear, let alone if it hit a bump on the climb.

    would love to hear from people who've actually used one
    I used to run a 3x9, but moved to a 1x11. I have 28t with a 10-42. I actually lost my lowest ratio I had my 3x9 which was 20x34. I also lost 2 geras on he top end (38x11) However I feel this works well for me. I did bikepacking trip in colorado and only once did run out of my gears. 28x42 was not good for steep paved road climb. I cracked and got passed by a guy on a 2x10. Up to that point I could ride everything or it was simply too steep to ride in any gear. On the flip side I have not spun out the 28x10 even a more flat high speed XC race I also did.

    for my 32x42 is not low enough. So far I am not spinnnng out my 28x10, but if I have a race that does I will consider replacing the 28T with 32 to 34 if I don't need the low end.

    BTW the 28x42 gets me to about 4mph at useful cadence. Once I hit 3.5 mph that is about as slow as I can go. Walking speed is 2.5 to 3.

    These low speeds work best for long smooth steep climbs. They don't work as well on technical bits.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vqdriver View Post
    ..if anything, i was talking about losing momentum on short punchy climbs that i approach with speed. it's easy to drop too low and spin out,.
    Well of course. If you have short climbs you don't go all the way down in your cassette. You use low speed ratio for long grinder climbs where you can sit and spin rather than mash out the climb. If you bob up and down alot you need to work on your pedaling style. There are times to sit and spin and times to mash. Good to learn how to do both.
    Joe
    '18 Specialized Epic 29", Vassago Verhauen SS 29", '13 Santa Cruz Solo 27.5", XC, AM, blah blah blah.. I just ride.

  21. #21
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    Of course the cheapest option is to stick a small 24 tooth granny ring on the front (its been said before). Use a double shifter and no need for a dinner plate sized rear cassette. Works perfectly well here on the north shore for me. Some people don't bother putting a shifter on and just manually move the chain over for longer hilly sessoins, keeps the cost down. New 24t ring 10, new dinner plate cassette ???

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by vqdriver View Post
    hrm. didn't realize it came off that way, not what i meant at all. if anything, i was talking about losing momentum on short punchy climbs that i approach with speed. it's easy to drop too low and spin out, that's not because i'm a strong rider, it's mostly due to the momentum i take into it.
    i get that sustained climbs are totally different and i wasn't referring to that considering i weave all over the place as it is. my pedaling cadence is such that i bob up and down a lot so it just means i do a lot more grinding than spinning.
    To avoid the spin out you can remember the trails you know, like a climb i do frequently i call it the 53 wich means the first section i do in fifth gear than on the short allmost flat i double shift to get in third gear, to achieve like you like keeping my momentum while not messing with my 11 speeds SRAM transmission by overstressing it. An other is a 32,,, eventually we do just out of habit a double or a triple shift or if needed 2 double shifts, it helps when we mostly ride the same bike, i have a 27 speeds but it is mostly my backup.

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