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  1. #1
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    converting 2x to 1x

    On my 29Ē Iím at a 22/34 front and 11-35 in the rear.


    Iím wanting to just go with a 1x drive on it. If I removed the 34 front and shifting hardware, would a 22 front only and 11-35 rear, would that work...or would I be better off replacing the front crank and cassette to a dedicated 1x drive?


    Thanks

  2. #2
    g=9.764m/s2
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    What model components are currently there and how many speed is your shifter/derailleur?

  3. #3
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    Sram s1000. 2 sprockets up front and 10 in the back.

  4. #4
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    Depends on your budget... I was lucky enough to have a Shimano 24/34 11-36 setup with Shadow rear derailleur so I did remove the large chainring, changed rear cassette to 11-42 and added a Goatlink to the derailleur to clear the larger cogs. With the 24t chainring, the high gear ratio was not that great but I only need to go fast once gravity takes over. Not knowing anything about your derailleur, I canít say how large cassette you can go... try to find a new or used Shimano M6000 derailleur for about 60, a 11-42 cassette for 50, and a 28t or 30t chainring that fits your crank. Or if money is not an issue, find a full 1x11 or 1x12 groupset... SRAM NX is 375 w/crank.

  5. #5
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    Part of the equation is going to be the bolt center diameter (bcd) on your chain rings. I'd recommend looking for a 26 tooth narrow/wide ring that will fit your cranks. That said, I am wondering a little what your motivation is. I did a similar change out on one of my bikes, but it was driven by the fact I had completely worn out my big ring (39 tooth) while my little ring (26) was still in really good shape. I soon figured out that for my mostly flat trails, the 26 tooth wouldn't cut it, and my only option for the cranks I had at the time was a 36 tooth replacement for the big ring. To clarify, the sram chain rings for my cranks were stupid expensive, so I was looking at aftermarket (wolftooth) components and such, which were cheaper. So I guess my question is - do you have worn out parts of your drive train that you're trying to avoid replacing, or is this just an effort to simplify your life some?

  6. #6
    g=9.764m/s2
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    Here is more chatter on the topic...

    https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...1-1125451.html

  7. #7
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    I have a 30T up front with a Sunrace 11-40 10 speed rear. Itís almost perfect. Going full out top speed I barely put it into the 11T cog. Climbing hard hills the 40T isnít quit low enough. But thatís not often where I feel a 46-50 would have been needed.

    I also went with the SRAM GX shifter and it works great, no goat link needed.

    So to answer your questions, no I donít think a 22T front ring is going to work well unless all your doing is climbing hills. Youíll end up spinning out even at moderate speeds. A new narrow wide chain ring can be had off Amazon for $20. Itís just a matter of the bolt pattern on your cranks matching. More than likely I would say they will. Take off the 36T and replace it with a 30T or 32T.

  8. #8
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    As usual, depends. I have a friend who did just that, and he seems happy with it. He's riding 34T front and 11-42 rear, with the goatlink someone mentioned. At first he had problems with chain falling off the chainring, but got this solved with a guide. On the same trails, I feel that the 30T chainring on one of my bikes is a bit too small. 32 is fine, as 34T would probably be ok too.

  9. #9
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    do you need the range of a 42t cassette in the rear?

  10. #10
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    I just did this on my '16 Trek Fuel EX-8. It came stock with a Shimano 2x10 drivetrain(SLX/XT). I removed my front derailleur, added SRAM GX 11 spd shifter and rear derailleur. I went with a SunRace 11-46 cassette on the back. For the crank, I kept the stock Shimano cranks, removed both chainrings, and added a OneUp 32T oval chainring. So far I'm loving this setup versus the 2x10. I also had to add an 11 spd chain.

  11. #11
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    I've been running a shimano 11-36 cassette w/ an e13 brand 30T narrow/Wide @104BCD (30 is the smallest I think you can get on there) all year since I got rid of my 22/32 2x10 setup and only on the steepest of hills do I miss having the 22T up front to drop into, or wish I had a bigger rear cassette.

    I did recently upgrade to a 11/42 shimano cassette + goatlink for XT shadow RD but haven't ridden it yet so the jury's still out on that setup. I will say I do NOT miss my front derailleur at all and I wish I had done this sooner. Made room for my dropper post remote and is just generally simpler to work with.

    -DS
    2011 Trek Rumblefish II

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hyena74 View Post
    On my 29Ē Iím at a 22/34 front and 11-35 in the rear.


    Iím wanting to just go with a 1x drive on it. If I removed the 34 front and shifting hardware, would a 22 front only and 11-35 rear, would that work...or would I be better off replacing the front crank and cassette to a dedicated 1x drive?


    Thanks
    If you can run all of the rear gears in your small front ring, then removing the large ring would work. It's just a question of whether that's enough range for you.

  13. #13
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    whether the parts are compatible with other parts and which parts to get will all depend on your current setup. However, trying to find the correct gear range for you and your bike is a LOT easier using the various calculators out there. Sheldon Brown has one that I used for years but I just recently found this one and it has become my go to. Enter information about your bike like wheel size, crank size, etc. and then the size of your cassette and chainrings. It will give you a graphical display of how that gear combination will translate into speed or gain ratios (I prefer speed range because it is easier to wrap my head around the practical, physically seen aspect of the changes) You can put multiple chainrings in at once to see how the size will affect everything or possibly open a new window and do a separate graph for a different cassette range and compare them side by side. It really helps to dial it in to get what you want out of it.
    https://mike-sherman.github.io/shift/
    converting 2x to 1x-screen-shot-2020-02-12-9.52.41-am.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails converting 2x to 1x-screen-shot-2020-02-12-9.50.21-am.jpg  


  14. #14
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    I was running the stock 22-34 double cranks with 11-36 cassette. Recently converted to raceface 30t narrow wide chainring and a 11-42 10 speed cassette. The chain no longer rubs my tires like it did before on the small chainring. I wouldn't mind a slightly bigger cassette for climbing but I've enjoyed this set up so far. I wish I had done this sooner.

  15. #15
    jrm
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    you could buy a sram 12spd NX drive group (RD,cassette,shifter), use your cranks...but change the chainring..cost you about 275 or less you if you look hard enough and you have a new 12 spd drivetrain..

  16. #16
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    If you are committed to leaving the 22 on the front, you will need a chain guide since the 22 will not be a narrow wide ring. This will keep the chain from popping off. Your front derailleur currently does that for you. This will give you an idea what you need.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Chain-Guides-Tensioners

    If you want to avoid that, you shouldn't have to replace the whole crank up front. You could find a 26 narrow-wide chainring and a 42 or 46 10-speed cassette and climb anything. I am running an Absolute Black 26t chainring and a 11-46 10-speed SLX cassette and I love it. I have a Race Face bashguard which keeps the front chainring from getting dinged up.
    AreBee

  17. #17
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    If you're staying on 22t chainring (wow, that's tiny) you might want to check your chain length too to optimize it to avoid dropped chains and unecessary chain slap. It might only be a link or two since you were on 22/34.

    You could pick up a gently used Shimano 11-42 cassette for not much and a 26t or even 30t NW chainring. With a 22t chainring with a 11-35t cassette, on the flats, I think you'd be maxed out after just a few pedals.

  18. #18
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    To dumb down the gear ratio aspect to find your target set-up, this site helps by entering the chainring and cog sizes to compare. Say you have a low .67 ratio with 24/36t that you want to maintain, the graph shows a 30t chainring with a 46t cassette has a better .65 ratio.

    https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios

    converting 2x to 1x-2d9c693d-56ff-4f98-8261-9cb3d78a3104.jpeg

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undescended View Post
    To dumb down the gear ratio aspect to find your target set-up, this site helps by entering the chainring and cog sizes to compare. Say you have a low .67 ratio with 24/36t that you want to maintain, the graph shows a 30t chainring with a 46t cassette has a better .65 ratio.

    https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios

    Does this calculator take into account wheel, tire or crank size? Ratios are great but they are going to have VERY different real world relevencies to riders with different setups. Someone riding a 26x2.1" tire with 175mm cranks running a 30/50 will have roughly the same Gain Ratio as another running 29x3.0" tire with 165mm cranks running a 26/50. <Edit: I jumped the gun on that one ... I think I read it as trying to maintain an absolute value of gear ratio. If trying to to do the calculations on your own bike with nothing else changing, there should not be an issue with using just gear ratios>

  20. #20
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    converting 2x to 1x-s001.png
    converting 2x to 1x-s2.png

    Ok, So I finally went with a new chain ring up from, 11 speed NX cassette from my Chameleon, and an 11 speed chain.

    The chain ring is smaller that the piece it bolts on to. I have taken it on a couple test rides and the chain hasnt fell off yet. Is there anything to worry about here?

    Thanks

  21. #21
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    You're good. The smaller 30t rings have that lip that gives the chain clearance from hitting the crank arms.

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