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  1. #9001
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    For ppl that have had full wheels built up, are you having to tension spokes properly and such or are they ready to ride? I assume i would take to my LBS to check to verify everything is good.
    I mounted my Btlos i30 29er rims. Dead quiet and that is rare as Iím a Clyde at 280. Usually, I get some spoke noise on most new wheels. The set I replaced were a pair of syncros Scott OEM wheels that drove me insane with the spoke noise even from brand new. Iím amazed at the stiff precision of my new wheels. At 280, engineered compliance is not something I see as a positive.... lol

  2. #9002
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    So i think this is what i have settled on. I'm 180 in gear with mostly east coast XC type trails with shorter up and downs with some roots and smaller rocks gardens mostly at lower speed thrown in. Nearly no drops or jumps.
    Rim Size: 29er
    Series: Premium
    Version: AM
    Finish: Matte
    Weave: UD
    Spoke Count: 28H/28H
    Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    Ratchet: Upgrade 36T
    Hub Color: Black
    Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    Freehub: Shimano Microspline
    Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    Spoke System: J-bend
    Nipple: Brass Black
    Decal colors: None

    From BTLOS and weight is ~1510. Almost 400g saving from my stock IBIS S35 aluminum wheels. 820 right now with free shipping to Canada. Should be a 3.5% tax on this.
    Any suggestions or advise? I know some might say to go 32 spoke but that put weight up to 1550 and I'm mentally set on 1500 to justify the upgrade in my brain...lol
    Seems like a pretty decent deal with the free shipping.

  3. #9003
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    ^^^ If you truly care about building them to the lightest weight, then spend the extra dough to drop the additional 70g and go with 240 hubs. Right! Itís only money!

  4. #9004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicane32 View Post
    ^^^ If you truly care about building them to the lightest weight, then spend the extra dough to drop the additional 70g and go with 240 hubs. Right! Itís only money!
    Ha Ha I know i priced that out also and the other mental barrier is to stay as close to possible to 1000 CAD and its already 1070 at current exchange rate. That puts it closer to 1500 than to 1000. I already have to use creative payment methods to slide the full cost past my wife as she still gripes about the 5k USD i just spent on the bike!

  5. #9005
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Ha Ha I know i priced that out also and the other mental barrier is to stay as close to possible to 1000 CAD and its already 1070 at current exchange rate. That puts it closer to 1500 than to 1000. I already have to use creative payment methods to slide the full cost past my wife as she still gripes about the 5k USD i just spent on the bike!
    You can always say that 5k only paid for something incomplete, and you need more components to make the bike work as you intended...

    If you wnat to go really light, you can also consider the Berd spokes. Serious weight saving.

  6. #9006
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    For ppl that have had full wheels built up, are you having to tension spokes properly and such or are they ready to ride? I assume i would take to my LBS to check to verify everything is good.
    I have checked all of my wheels that come prebuilt and they are true and even. No issues.

  7. #9007
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    Has anyone built a set of Light Bicycle AR28 rims?
    They hit a number of check boxes for me.
    Advertised as a 'Gravel rim'... I'd be using them for a 'road' build.
    Super light at 380g and Asymmetrical. PSI up to 130psi, so they should be good to go for wider (28c) road tires.

    Any thoughts or experiences appreciated.
    TTUB - Ventura County California

  8. #9008
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    Anyone used farwheel/wheelfar recently?

    These seems to be the best deal of all similar sites for this kind of wheels atm: https://www.wheelsfar.com/29er-36mmx...9ct-36-28.html (29er 36mmx28mm MTB wheels with DT240S 28H/28H Boost Model: FS29CT-36-28)

    wondering if anyone purchased from them recently

  9. #9009
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Anyone used farwheel/wheelfar recently?

    These seems to be the best deal of all similar sites for this kind of wheels atm: https://www.wheelsfar.com/29er-36mmx...9ct-36-28.html (29er 36mmx28mm MTB wheels with DT240S 28H/28H Boost Model: FS29CT-36-28)

    wondering if anyone purchased from them recently
    Go back a page. #8996 and keep reading

  10. #9010
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Go back a page. #8996 and keep reading
    hah yeah i just wanted to see if there's more than one person, but i do appreciate what you posted

  11. #9011
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    We got some experience with sereval types of rims ordered from AliExpress.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-y8uojv7gfwx31.jpg

    Some rims were hardly used, some rims were recieved and checked

    In general, all rims (except 26) were good regardless of type and price. No problems with shipping.



    Item: 29 rims, assymetrical, 25 internal width, 310 gramms (real - 310 and 312 gr)

    Shop: A-ONE Bicycle Co

    XC racers choice, lightweight, tubeless

    Link: Ali Express

    More photos: https://alibuy.biz/2019/07/23/chinarims25/

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-5n1ue4h1fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-9v4ig4h1fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-cv7tt3h1fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-teme85h1fwx31.jpg
    Last edited by amer_ua; 05-25-2020 at 08:28 AM.

  12. #9012
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    Item: SPEEDSAFE 29 rims, 28 internal width, 350 gramms (no real rim weight data)

    Shop: A-ONE Bicycle Co

    90+ kg XCO\XCM racers choice. One pair was used and hardly abused in 2019 season. No problems so far. Tubeless

    Update: one rim was hit by rock and was damaged. rim need to be repaired or replaced. tire did not deflated after incient

    Link: AliExpress

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-27ezf283fwx31.jpg
    Last edited by amer_ua; 05-25-2020 at 08:34 AM.

  13. #9013
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    Item: 29 rims, assymetrical, 25 internal width, 320 gramms (real - 314, 320, 321,323)

    Shop: A-ONE Bicycle Co

    "Default" rim if you don't know what you want. Has 2mm higher profile than 310gr rim

    Link: Ali Express

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-3surijw4fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-eji53jw4fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-g7yjnew4fwx31.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-z6cg0kw4fwx31.jpg
    Last edited by amer_ua; 05-25-2020 at 08:48 AM.

  14. #9014
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    deleted. duplicate.

  15. #9015
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    Quote Originally Posted by global View Post
    Just received carbonfan wheelset yesterday 8-10-19. Did not pay any extra for a tariff. Rode them today and they are perfect. 30mm deep 29 wide 22 ID for my road bike. Weight was 1260 grams. Attachment 1271009Attachment 1271009Attachment 1271009
    Hey Global, which CarbonFan Wheelset did you order? I love my CF rims that I had built up with DT-Swiss 350s for my 29er and now want a set for a Kona Libre I have coming for gravel and road use. I would like to also use the 350's for this bike. The 67 gram savings is not worth it to me.

    Or can anyone else recommend a decent set of gravel bike wheels with 350's?

  16. #9016
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Sucks that LB wouldn't warranty your rim, and not defending them in any way, but I am sure they have their reasons.

    I haven't ever purchased from LB because they are over priced relatively speaking for what they offer. You are paying more for a "name brand" in a non brand market.

    If I was ever to buy a set of LB wheels I would just end up buy SC Reserve wheels and forget about it since the price difference is not that drastic and there is an actual warranty.

    Now getting livid over breaking a maybe $200 rim and then not getting warrantied? No way.
    I don't expect these wheels to break, but I also don't expect a warranty program that is on par with a boutique brand. Again if that is what I wanted and needed I wouldn't be buying these wheels.

    P.S.
    Look at BMC fork recall. All shit breaks, even the expensive stuff. Cycling Tips has a pretty good podcast on the fork issue and why it (breakage) can happen. I would assume the same can be said for wheels.

    P.S.S. I actually have had a catastrophic Chinese carbon wheel break, however it was from a large name brand (not Asian) tire company's bead breaking and the tire coming off the rim. ENVE or Velocity rims would have suffer the same fate.

    P.S.S.S.
    Just took delivery of a Farsports 34mm ID, Dt Swiss 350, Cx-ray wheelset sitting at 1621g all for $670 to my door. I could break three full wheelsets of these before I reach boutique prices. Life is good.
    @yourrealdad , I came into this thread looking for what might be the right set of wheels for a Kona gravel bike I will be ordering soon. Seems like Farsports may have what I need in a 700c gravel/cx set with the same hubs and spokes as you are running for a similar price. Any thoughts or advice as what wheel to get? Paved road and hard dirt with some kitty litter and occasional river rock in the road, maybe a little sand sometimes will be the riding condition.

  17. #9017
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunvalleylaw View Post
    @yourrealdad , I came into this thread looking for what might be the right set of wheels for a Kona gravel bike I will be ordering soon. Seems like Farsports may have what I need in a 700c gravel/cx set with the same hubs and spokes as you are running for a similar price. Any thoughts or advice as what wheel to get? Paved road and hard dirt with some kitty litter and occasional river rock in the road, maybe a little sand sometimes will be the riding condition.
    This is the set of Farsport wheels I have on my Niner RLT RDO Gravel bike:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3297...2e254ca1h1gNFg

    I went with the DT Swiss 350 SP CL 28H set up. Obviously you can mess around with which disc mount and spoke number you want. I also went with the FSC40CM-30T-DSL for the hookless bead, but if you want a different height or rim ID you can look at the other options. Should be $700 shipped.

    Also emailing Angela is a great place to start as well, she is super helpful.

  18. #9018
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    I jumped on the LB DT240/Recon promo they had back in January. They were clearing out DT240 hubs and thier regular Recon rims for $850 USD pls shipping for a fully assembled wheelset. Normally thats a fair price for an import carbon wheelset with budget hubs, but with 240's, its a great deal. What was even better is that they were building and shipping out of the Canadian HQ so i received mine in about a week once built. I spec'd mine with 29" hoops (AM933 was the model), 33mm ID, D-light spokes, valves, fully taped and ready to go. LB claimed 1680g for the pair and it measured out exactly that. A good deal lighter than my al S35 Ibis wheels, but the lateral rigidity is way better. There's so much flex in the Ibis wheels, you can grab the S35 while mounted on the bike and flex it over till the tire damn near touches the seat stay whereas the carbon LB rim barely budges. So while the Ibis wheel is fairly light for AL, it clearly gives up a lot of rigidity to achieve this. I appreciate the directness of these wheels given the type of riding we do here.

  19. #9019
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    Carbonfan 30mm gravel

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-718c936d-8cc0-4cd3-874f-e73ea121f152.jpgClick image for larger version. 

Name:	718C936D-8CC0-4CD3-874F-E73EA121F152.jpg 
Views:	73 
Size:	155.7 KB 
ID:	1316567Sorry it took so long to see your post. Now have about 3000 miles on wheels trouble free. Running tubeless 28mm conti 5000s.

  20. #9020
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    My EIE carbon 29ers are stuck in China until another shipping option is figured out. China Post is suspending shipments to anywhere that is still ramping up with COVID-19 cases, including the US.

    Crazy times.








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  21. #9021
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    glad i saw your post
    been thinking about pulling the trigger on a 29+ set-up from EIE
    There don't seem to be a ton of 29+ rim options in the cheap Chinese eco-system




    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    My EIE carbon 29ers are stuck in China until another shipping option is figured out. China Post is suspending shipments to anywhere that is still ramping up with COVID-19 cases, including the US.

    Crazy times.








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  22. #9022
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    Quote Originally Posted by threepin View Post
    glad i saw your post
    been thinking about pulling the trigger on a 29+ set-up from EIE
    There don't seem to be a ton of 29+ rim options in the cheap Chinese eco-system
    I will say that Pretty Fang, sales manager at EIE is super communicative and helpful. She gave me the option of FedEx shipping the wheels, and she covered 40% of the cost, which was double what China post charged. So an extra $54 from me and the wheels are once again on the way.

    There were few options for 34mm ID rims which I wanted to stick with since Iím replacing the same on my Ripmo. The EIE wheel set with DT 240 hubs save 1/2 pound over stock alum Ibis wheels, and Iím really looking forward to the improved stiffness.

    The Aluminum 938s are quite flexy and soft.

    I will report back on EIE first impressions after riding.


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  23. #9023
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    thanks
    i was looking at the 39mm id as i wanted 3.0 tires to be well supported and maybe the option of a something like a duro crux
    i'll shoot pretty an email as i am curious about parts stock esp as i need microspline.on a 240s
    their weights and price were competitive.

    i can't for the life of me understand china post not doing export.
    if goods are safe to handle domestically they are safe for export. Too, the viability of the virus is said to be well less than the shipping time



    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I will say that Pretty Fang, sales manager at EIE is super communicative and helpful. She gave me the option of FedEx shipping the wheels, and she covered 40% of the cost, which was double what China post charged. So an extra $54 from me and the wheels are once again on the way.

    There were few options for 34mm ID rims which I wanted to stick with since Iím replacing the same on my Ripmo. The EIE wheel set with DT 240 hubs save 1/2 pound over stock alum Ibis wheels, and Iím really looking forward to the improved stiffness.

    The Aluminum 938s are quite flexy and soft.

    I will report back on EIE first impressions after riding.


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  24. #9024
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I will say that Pretty Fang, sales manager at EIE is super communicative and helpful.
    She wouldn't happen to be building a fighting force of extra-ordinary magnitude, would she?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  25. #9025
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    What do you guys think of these:

    https://www.wheelsfar.com/ultralight...im-cx-ray.html

    ?

    I don't see the inner dimensions but assuming they are around 25 if they're 30 wide external?

  26. #9026
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    Isleblue,
    what was your build timeframe?
    How quickly did pretty reply? just waiting on word back on whether they have all the items in stock, especially the micro spline free hub as that seems to have been in short supply
    Came down to BTLOS vs EIE in the 39ish mm internal range with EIE claiming a lighter weigh and lower cost.
    BTLOS seems to have a slightly longer track record and a much higher weight rating on the wheel


    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I will say that Pretty Fang, sales manager at EIE is super communicative and helpful. She gave me the option of FedEx shipping the wheels, and she covered 40% of the cost, which was double what China post charged. So an extra $54 from me and the wheels are once again on the way.

    There were few options for 34mm ID rims which I wanted to stick with since Iím replacing the same on my Ripmo. The EIE wheel set with DT 240 hubs save 1/2 pound over stock alum Ibis wheels, and Iím really looking forward to the improved stiffness.

    The Aluminum 938s are quite flexy and soft.

    I will report back on EIE first impressions after riding.


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  27. #9027
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    Iím looking to build a set in the 1250-1300gram range. Happy to pay for quality name brand hubs. Will be doing east coast xc riding and like to hi occasional small drop or small jump but too much of a skeerdy cat to hit doubles (there arenít many around here anyway).

    Which wheelset would you recommend I look at?

  28. #9028
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    I'm looking at EIE wheels and a little lost - I want something about 30mm wide, and I ride hard on Colorado trails - not much bike park but we did just get a new DH flow trail that I hit a lot.

    EIE only rates their rims for AM or DH, and I feel I'm probably somewhere in between. Light is good though! So do you think the AM rims will be enough for my use?

    Specifically I'm looking at the A29C30D28S - 30.5mm wide, 28mm deep, asym.

  29. #9029
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles of pain View Post
    I'm looking at EIE wheels and a little lost - I want something about 30mm wide, and I ride hard on Colorado trails - not much bike park but we did just get a new DH flow trail that I hit a lot.

    EIE only rates their rims for AM or DH, and I feel I'm probably somewhere in between. Light is good though! So do you think the AM rims will be enough for my use?

    Specifically I'm looking at the A29C30D28S - 30.5mm wide, 28mm deep, asym.
    I ride in front range co and on my 2nd set of eie rims. I always went for am version. Both are at around 30id asymetrical. 1 set on my hd3 and 2nd set on ripley v4. 0 issues with either set. I even had a hard hit on ripley hiting rock, pinching tire and cuting it in 2 spots. Loud bang, but the rim still solid, just a little scrape on the bead bit no ding or other damage.

  30. #9030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachua View Post
    What do you guys think of these:

    https://www.wheelsfar.com/ultralight...im-cx-ray.html

    ?

    I don't see the inner dimensions but assuming they are around 25 if they're 30 wide external?
    Email Angela and ask her wha the ID is. She is very helpful. I have had no issues with my Farsport wheels.
    You can also check out their Aliexpress store. They have more wheels on that site than their own usually.

    Here is a chart off of their Ali store

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-screen-shot-2020-03-28-10.51.15-am.png

  31. #9031
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    Quote Originally Posted by threepin View Post
    Isleblue,
    what was your build timeframe?
    How quickly did pretty reply? just waiting on word back on whether they have all the items in stock, especially the micro spline free hub as that seems to have been in short supply
    Came down to BTLOS vs EIE in the 39ish mm internal range with EIE claiming a lighter weigh and lower cost.
    BTLOS seems to have a slightly longer track record and a much higher weight rating on the wheel
    Feb 20 order placed, March 20 shipped via FedEx.

    Pretty always responded within 9 or 10 hours, and usually between 2 and 9am, US Pacific time.

    The cost of the complete wheel set was not much more than the retail price of the DT 240 hubs with 54t freewheel and Sapim Race J bend spokes and brass nipples.

    I told her my riding style and weight (210#), and she assured me these would be more than tough enough. They come with a 2 year warranty. Within 6 months, they pay shipping, after 6 months, they pay half of shipping.



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  32. #9032
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    anyone had any luck getting info from EIE lately?- i have tried the chat function a couple of times with no reply or email back- i had some email issues so i tried leaving 2 different addresses
    If anyone has an email for Pretty or someone else there and could post it or PM it I would appreciate it.


    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    Feb 20 order placed, March 20 shipped via FedEx.

    Pretty always responded within 9 or 10 hours, and usually between 2 and 9am, US Pacific time.

    The cost of the complete wheel set was not much more than the retail price of the DT 240 hubs with 54t freewheel and Sapim Race J bend spokes and brass nipples.

    I told her my riding style and weight (210#), and she assured me these would be more than tough enough. They come with a 2 year warranty. Within 6 months, they pay shipping, after 6 months, they pay half of shipping.



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  33. #9033
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Delete
    Last edited by isleblue65; 04-01-2020 at 10:52 PM. Reason: Delete
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  34. #9034
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    Considering the holy hell unleashed on the world due to the Chinese government's suppression, I personally will never consider buying cheap crap from china any longer as much as I can. It will be hard, but it is the right thing to do. Anyone buying these products, I hope it works out well for you.
    Gman
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  35. #9035
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grodyman View Post
    Considering the holy hell unleashed on the world due to the Chinese government's suppression, I personally will never consider buying cheap crap from china any longer as much as I can. It will be hard, but it is the right thing to do. Anyone buying these products, I hope it works out well for you.
    Gman
    ^
    Spam

  36. #9036
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grodyman View Post
    Considering the holy hell unleashed on the world due to the Chinese government's suppression, I personally will never consider buying cheap crap from china any longer as much as I can. It will be hard, but it is the right thing to do. Anyone buying these products, I hope it works out well for you.
    Gman
    Yeah, thatíll teach Ďem. I hope other countries donít ďpunishĒ the US for any of its perceived failures and lack of transparency


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  37. #9037
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeInPA View Post
    Yeah, thatíll teach Ďem. I hope other countries donít ďpunishĒ the US for any of its perceived failures and lack of transparency


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    Excellent moral equivalency. Go buy some cheap rims.
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  38. #9038
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grodyman View Post
    Excellent moral equivalency. Go buy some cheap rims.
    Considering many name brand carbon rims come from Chinese contract manufacturers (of which there are only a few factories producing them, using many of the same layup molds), if you have carbon wheels, youíve very possibly bought a Chinese product. Even Santa Cruz contracts their Reserve wheels to an Asian manufacturer.

    The smaller companies live and die on reputation, and any that hope to last go out of their way to make sure their customers are happy. The same factory workers who build one brand build another in many cases, and molds are rented by less established manufacturers. Designed by larger brands.

    So go ahead and pay for marketing, a US headquarters, distributors and other markups. EIE wheels are warrantied for 3 years, so obviously not lifetime like the Reserve, but they have better hubs and I could buy two sets complete for the cost of one set of Reserves.

    Iíll take my chances. You make a political statement and empty your wallet.


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  39. #9039
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    All this holy rolling moral grandstanding reminds me of Snowden broadcasting from Mother Russia. Yes youíre morally correct, but the rest of the world would love to have your 1st world philosophical high ground from which to argue. Spare me...


    Loving the 45mm aero road tubeless rims from light-bicycle year after year. Iím rebuilding them with disc hubs for the next bike.


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  40. #9040
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    Quote Originally Posted by chomxxo View Post
    All this holy rolling moral grandstanding reminds me of Snowden broadcasting from Mother Russia. Yes youíre morally correct, but the rest of the world would love to have your 1st world philosophical high ground from which to argue. Spare me...


    Loving the 45mm aero road tubeless rims from light-bicycle year after year. Iím rebuilding them with disc hubs for the next bike.


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    Glad you love them, comrade. I'm sure they are wonderful and cheap. That's really all that matters. Best of luck.
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  41. #9041
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    Anyone want to give their thoughts on BTLOS vs EIE?
    right now price is quite similar and weights within a 100 grams or so with the EIE lighter but they rate at max rider wt of 130 vs the premium BTLOS at 180kg BTLOS rim is a slightly deeper section
    Btlos
    https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asym...plus-bike-rims
    EIE
    https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c39d25-...rbon-rims.html
    thoughts?

  42. #9042
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    Quote Originally Posted by threepin View Post
    Anyone want to give their thoughts on BTLOS vs EIE?
    right now price is quite similar and weights within a 100 grams or so with the EIE lighter but they rate at max rider wt of 130 vs the premium BTLOS at 180kg BTLOS rim is a slightly deeper section
    Btlos
    https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asym...plus-bike-rims
    EIE
    https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c39d25-...rbon-rims.html
    thoughts?
    They are so close I'd be hardpressed to recommend one over the other. When I was in the market, EIE and BTLOS were the final two companies I selected between. I went with BTLOS and have no regrets. I suspect you would be perfectly happy with EIE as well. I value durability over lightweight, so based on my experience and bias I would go with BTLOS. But I suspect either will do just fine for you. If you aren't close to the 130kg weight limit, then it might make more sense to go for the EIE rims.

  43. #9043
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    After all the research I did, over the past few weeks, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a wheelset from EIE. I got the A29C30D28S wheels with DT Swiss 240 hubs. I got the wheelset with shipping for 1100 bucks. I looked into a bunch of different companies, and I narrowed it down to BTLOS and EIE. I also looked into Light Bicycles and other very well known brands. I went with the EIE over the BTLOS because of the weight difference. BTLOS were a little bit cheaper but 200g heavier. The rim profiles are very identical, comparing BTLOS, LB, EIE, or under brands. So I don't think that the other companies are worse or better than EIE. All of them get excellent reviews from most peoples.

    Since people are having difficulties getting a hold of EIE via their web chat and I just wanted to confirm that I had the same issues. Anyway, after I waited for a while every time somebody eventually answered all of my questions and the person was very nice and professional. I am sure it's just as rough of time for them as it is for us.

    I am not sure when I will receive the wheels, but I will try to update you guys when I get a few rides in.

  44. #9044
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    I got my wheels after some challenges with China Mail suspending deliveries to countries that were early in the COVID-19 cycle (not sure why, as parcels are handed over to national postal services at or before arrival in destination countries). Then FedEx held the wheels in China for 2 weeks.

    The wheels look great. High quality in all the detail and build, but I canít ride them because parks are all closed. They are hanging from my garage ceiling.


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  45. #9045
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  46. #9046
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I got my wheels after some challenges with China Mail suspending deliveries to countries that were early in the COVID-19 cycle (not sure why, as parcels are handed over to national postal services at or before arrival in destination countries). Then FedEx held the wheels in China for 2 weeks.

    The wheels look great. High quality in all the detail and build, but I canít ride them because parks are all closed. They are hanging from my garage ceiling.


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    I am curious about which wheels you got from EIE. I just ordered a set with DT swiss 240 hubs with 54 T, 30.5mm internal width superlight version, and Sapim D-light spokes. I ride an Ibis Ripmo as well. The weight of the wheels is supposed to be around 1450g. I can't wait to get them.
    I am looking forward to shaving off some serious weight. I am also getting rid of my NX cassette and cranks and will replace them with X01 cranks/cassette. I am looking to shave off about 2lb after everything is set and done.

  47. #9047
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by mpaschinger View Post
    I am curious about which wheels you got from EIE. I just ordered a set with DT swiss 240 hubs with 54 T, 30.5mm internal width superlight version, and Sapim D-light spokes. I ride an Ibis Ripmo as well. The weight of the wheels is supposed to be around 1450g. I can't wait to get them.
    I am looking forward to shaving off some serious weight. I am also getting rid of my NX cassette and cranks and will replace them with X01 cranks/cassette. I am looking to shave off about 2lb after everything is set and done.
    That will be some serious weight savings!

    My Ripmo is the GX build.
    Hereís my EIE build (goal was balance of durability and weight savings)
    Rim:A29C34D25 34mm internal width (AM :430+/-15g,UD,Matte,32H,with black EIE decals)ó2pcs
    Hubs T Swiss 240s(15*110mm,12*148mm),6-bolt ,J-bend ,SRAM XD,54T
    Spoke :Sapim race
    Nipples: black brass

    1584g which saves 0.8# from Ibis 938 wheels. I weigh 210# (plus 5# these days since Iím not riding much), so durability over ultra light weight. I ride hard.





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    Last edited by isleblue65; 04-11-2020 at 04:42 AM.
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  48. #9048
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    Does anyone have experience with Nextie's Premium Lite rims? I'm interested in the 27mm internal for my SB100, but a little worried that the 320g weight and T1000 may be too rigid and/or brittle to be reliable and durable. I'm about 170 w/o gear, looking to race BCBR next year, and like to pretend I'm Nate Hills on a pseudo xc bike.

    Alternatively, Nextie's Premium 27mm id rim is 370g, has a slightly thicker bead wall, and made of T800/700 (I ignorantly assume this to be more durable). This seems like a more practical choice, but weight is a factor and the price is close enough to not be a consideration.

    Thanks!

  49. #9049
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ_John View Post
    Does anyone have experience with Nextie's Premium Lite rims? I'm interested in the 27mm internal for my SB100, but a little worried that the 320g weight and T1000 may be too rigid and/or brittle to be reliable and durable. I'm about 170 w/o gear, looking to race BCBR next year, and like to pretend I'm Nate Hills on a pseudo xc bike.

    Alternatively, Nextie's Premium 27mm id rim is 370g, has a slightly thicker bead wall, and made of T800/700 (I ignorantly assume this to be more durable). This seems like a more practical choice, but weight is a factor and the price is close enough to not be a consideration.

    Thanks!
    My take is I stayed away from Nextie because they are over priced and went with EIE because they worked with me on my build weight. I29 identical dimensions as Nox Farlow and I couldnít tell the difference between the two in build quality. EIE i29 premium rims weighed 360g and AM weighed 400g. I had them build me a custom set in between at 380g T700/800(I weigh 185) DT Swiss 240,Sipham, 6bolt, Jbend, Alloy nipples, 54T-1490g with tape/stems. Cost $1030 shipped. Had them on my SB100 now on Ripley V4. 500 miles so far without issue.

  50. #9050
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ_John View Post
    Does anyone have experience with Nextie's Premium Lite rims? I'm interested in the 27mm internal for my SB100, but a little worried that the 320g weight and T1000 may be too rigid and/or brittle to be reliable and durable. I'm about 170 w/o gear, looking to race BCBR next year, and like to pretend I'm Nate Hills on a pseudo xc bike.

    Alternatively, Nextie's Premium 27mm id rim is 370g, has a slightly thicker bead wall, and made of T800/700 (I ignorantly assume this to be more durable). This seems like a more practical choice, but weight is a factor and the price is close enough to not be a consideration.

    Thanks!
    I raced some similar 290g rims hard last season and the season before (but not quite as hard). I'm similar weight, was only a few lbs lighter. IMO, they should hold up, as long as you aren't being stupid with them, like not running enough pressure, using for enduro/really nasty stuff/big jumps.

    The other classic way you could do this is get the rear rim in the stronger version, front rim in the lighter version. The rear sees more abuse and needs to be built stronger compared to the front, so an ideal wheelset is not the same front/rear rim, spokes and everything else. It ends up that way most of the time due to price and ease of manufacture.

    The SB100 could go either way. If you already have a wheelset for normal riding, then that would be more on the side of going for the lighter rims.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  51. #9051
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    Good advice Jayem. Thanks! I think I'll split the baby as you recommend. The bike came with trail-oriented wheels & tires that I plan to keep and use on burlier terrain.

  52. #9052
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    Something to note, which is a big deal to me - these EIE wheels were the easiest to mount tires on (all by hand), and set up tubeless, inflated with a floor pump with valve stem installed without leaking any air on inflation.

    This is amazing. I have a set of WTB wheels that require an air compressor to inflate - so no chance of running tubeless on the trail after a flat.


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  53. #9053
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    Max tire width of 2.4 on my frame. What internal rim width should I be looking at?

  54. #9054
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    13 hours left for 29 rims (assymetrical, 29 internal) on sale

    at least one wheelset was built on them - no problems so far

    rims were 385 and 401

    244 usd \ 2 rims

  55. #9055
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    Anybody have a coupon code for nextie or btlos?

  56. #9056
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Anybody have a coupon code for nextie or btlos?
    I was very close to pulling trigger on a set of btlos superlight wheels a couple weeks ago and emailed them to see if there might be any coupons coming out soon (mothers day maybe?) but they said due to the 'rona the shipping costs had gone up (there were only certain carriers operating at moment so their options were fewer) and they couldn't really knock any more off the price.

  57. #9057
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachua View Post
    I was very close to pulling trigger on a set of btlos superlight wheels a couple weeks ago and emailed them to see if there might be any coupons coming out soon (mothers day maybe?) but they said due to the 'rona the shipping costs had gone up (there were only certain carriers operating at moment so their options were fewer) and they couldn't really knock any more off the price.
    Yeah, I just ordered a new frame and so was looking for wheels and both BTLOS and Farsports upped the shipping and prices ended up being around $800 for a set of wheels with 350 hubs, which is my standard go to.

    Knowing I would upgrade the star ratchet to at least the 36t if not 54t and that is another $100, I was looking at around $900 for the wheelset.

    Right now Backcountry has 20% off and so I went with the i9 101 enduro wheelset. Will probably come out about 1/2lb heavier than the Chinese carbon, but it will be $300 dollars cheaper, higher engagement, and supporting a US company making their product in the US. Worth it at that point.

  58. #9058
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    Just got a "basic" carbon rims for beginner!

    I`ve got

    Novatec D791SB hubs (front hub 15x100, rear hub 142)
    Pillar 1415 spokes
    XD driver

    326 USD, shipping included Link to Ali Express

    Package was badly damaged

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-98447540_937346050043265_4443039175452655616_n.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-99424916_937346016709935_8031495329197064192_n.jpg

    Fortunatelly no visible damage was found. Anyway, wheels will be taken to bike wheel builder to check tension and check them in details

    Few pictures

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8510.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8511.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8512.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8516.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8519.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-dsc_8520.jpg

  59. #9059
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    Looking for any critique on the wheels I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on.
    I had a bad rim strike on Sunday and my IBIS S35 rim is dented pretty good. Going to just throw a tube in to keep me running for now. It's worth noting that I'm typically easy on rims and this is my first time ever getting a flat. Rider 175 and riding more XC/trail east coast kind of trails. I also don't plan to run anything over 2.4 wide.

    My build: WM-I29A
    Rim Size: 29er
    Series: Premium
    Version: AM
    Finish: Matte
    Weave: 12K
    Spoke Count: 32H/32H
    Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    Ratchet: Upgrade 36T
    Hub Color: Black
    Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    Freehub: Shimano Microspline
    Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    Spoke System: J-bend
    Nipple: Brass Black

  60. #9060
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    I've just had a very similar pair delivered from BTLOS two day ago, except with the 52T upgrade.

    One (very minor) thing to watch out for - it seems that the DT 350 hubs are only available in black with white markings, whichever option you select on their website.

    Other than that, so far they seem fine. They arrived round and true, and I've only got 75km on them so far, but they feel great to ride on.

    Shipping was slightly delayed, but that's to be expected at the moment. Amy from BTLOS replied quickly and accurately to all of my emails during the ordering and delivery process.

  61. #9061
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    Davidibar, what carrier delivered them? I've been waiting on some rims for a while now.

  62. #9062
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    Mine came via Fedex.

    I tracked them en route. They went dark for a few days, but then turned up in Japan, then back to Hong Kong, and finally to Switzerland via Belgium and France.

    Edited to add:

    Ordered 26 April
    Confirmed 27 April
    Shipped 15 May
    Delivered 25 May

  63. #9063
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Looking for any critique on the wheels I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on.
    I had a bad rim strike on Sunday and my IBIS S35 rim is dented pretty good. Going to just throw a tube in to keep me running for now. It's worth noting that I'm typically easy on rims and this is my first time ever getting a flat. Rider 175 and riding more XC/trail east coast kind of trails. I also don't plan to run anything over 2.4 wide.

    My build: WM-I29A
    Rim Size: 29er
    Series: Premium
    Version: AM
    Finish: Matte
    Weave: 12K
    Spoke Count: 32H/32H
    Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    Ratchet: Upgrade 36T
    Hub Color: Black
    Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    Freehub: Shimano Microspline
    Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    Spoke System: J-bend
    Nipple: Brass Black
    That looks like a perfect build to me.

    I have a similar build that I got in the spring of 2018 that I've had great luck with over the past couple years. My rims are 27.5", 37mm outer / 32mm inner with 28 spokes, but the rest is the same. 350 centerlock hubs are hard to beat as they are similar to the 240s in weight but at a fraction of the cost. The 6-bolt versions are were the weight really adds up. My total wheelset weight is just under 1,500g and I've had some hard strikes with zero damage. My ride weight is roughly 180 to 185 and I ride some rough and rooty trails.

    One thing that I noticed of the CX-Ray (DT Aerolite) spokes is that they tend to get bent a little easier. They are plenty strong enough but out of the 3 wheelsets in my house that run them, there are more bent spokes versus the wheels with DT Comps. Not sure if it's due to the spokes themselves or just bad luck with those wheels.

    If you want to ditch the white 350 decals, Slik Graphics makes some great replacements in any color you want.
    https://www.slikgraphics.com/collect...-hub-decal-kit

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4420.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4423.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4421.jpg

  64. #9064
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post

    If you want to ditch the white 350 decals, Slik Graphics makes some great replacements in any color you want.
    https://www.slikgraphics.com/collect...-hub-decal-kit
    That's awesome, thanks. I've just ordered a set of decals in red.

  65. #9065
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Looking for any critique on the wheels I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on.
    I had a bad rim strike on Sunday and my IBIS S35 rim is dented pretty good. Going to just throw a tube in to keep me running for now. It's worth noting that I'm typically easy on rims and this is my first time ever getting a flat. Rider 175 and riding more XC/trail east coast kind of trails. I also don't plan to run anything over 2.4 wide.

    My build: WM-I29A
    Rim Size: 29er
    Series: Premium
    Version: AM
    Finish: Matte
    Weave: 12K
    Spoke Count: 32H/32H
    Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    Ratchet: Upgrade 36T
    Hub Color: Black
    Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    Freehub: Shimano Microspline
    Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    Spoke System: J-bend
    Nipple: Brass Black
    My apologies but the freehub that will work on my V4 Ripley with shimano SLX 12sp is the Microspline yes? Sorry, I know nothing about these things...

  66. #9066
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    My apologies but the freehub that will work on my V4 Ripley with shimano SLX 12sp is the Microspline yes? Sorry, I know nothing about these things...
    Yes. 12sp Shimano uses Microspline. If you have a DT Swiss hub on your other build, you can easily pull that freehub body and transfer to your new as well. DT Swiss are fantastically modular that way and super easy to service/upgrade.

    That will be a very solid wheel build. No real suggestions other than i personally haven't built wheels with CX-Rays or other bladed spokes on MTBs for cost/benefit reasons. If built well, you just don't have many fatigue issues and tend to kill the rims before the spokes which usually will require a rebuild anyway. DT Comps, DT Race Comps, or Wheelsmith DB14 are excellent and 1/3 the price. Just my two cents.

  67. #9067
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildh View Post
    Yes. 12sp Shimano uses Microspline. If you have a DT Swiss hub on your other build, you can easily pull that freehub body and transfer to your new as well. DT Swiss are fantastically modular that way and super easy to service/upgrade.

    That will be a very solid wheel build. No real suggestions other than i personally haven't built wheels with CX-Rays or other bladed spokes on MTBs for cost/benefit reasons. If built well, you just don't have many fatigue issues and tend to kill the rims before the spokes which usually will require a rebuild anyway. DT Comps, DT Race Comps, or Wheelsmith DB14 are excellent and 1/3 the price. Just my two cents.
    Thanks for the feedback-they are IBIS hubs.
    I just noticed that most ppl on the BTLOS thread were building with the CX ray
    The only options for spokes are:
    Option
    Type Weight (260mm)
    Application
    Sapim Race
    Butted
    5.7g
    XC, AM, DH
    Sapim D-light
    Butted
    4.8g XC, AM
    Sapim CX-Ray
    Aero
    4.4g
    XC, AM, DH
    Pillar X-TRA 1420
    Aero
    4.4g
    XC

  68. #9068
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    The Sapim Race spokes are equivalent to a DT Comp or Wheelsmith DB14. They are a good default spoke. The D-light model has thinner butting (1.65mm at center versus 1.8mm) and shorter segments at the 2.0mm thickness; together this saves about 25g per wheel.

    CX-Rays are great spokes but not necessary. The additional shaping (for aero shape) has the beneficial consequence of adding strength and fatigue resistance, despite their low weight. They will save about 45g per wheel versus Race spokes. Compared to the similar weight (but not aero) Laser models, they are WAY easier to build with since the bladed shape helps fight spoke wind-up. The upcharge for CX-Ray at BTLOS is actually pretty reasonable (~$1.25/spoke) compared to the $3+ per spoke retail price for CX-Ray many places in U.S.

    Careful w/ the centerlock brake hubs in your spec . . . all Ibis hubs I've ever seen were 6-bolt, so if you want to re-use the same rotors, you'll want 6-bolt.

    Also, if you have that new of a Ripley (v4) then I would contact Ibis and ask for an informal "crash replacement" deal on a new rim. I'd bet they will offer you a rim for half price or so. That's your fastest path to riding without a tube again. All you should need is new nipples; lacing over to a new rim is easier than building from scratch, so a shop charge should reflect that.

  69. #9069
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    Quote Originally Posted by amer_ua View Post
    13 hours left for 29 rims (assymetrical, 29 internal) on sale

    at least one wheelset was built on them - no problems so far

    rims were 385 and 401

    244 usd \ 2 rims
    Still available at that price. Includes free shipping to USA. Have you personally used these rims? Did they seat tubeless easily? (in past experience, that's one red flag on the cheaper carbon options: I've encountered some that were so tight to fit tires that I couldn't even mount several brands; others have been so loose that a compressor (or equivalent boost reservoir) is needed.

  70. #9070
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    The Sapim Race spokes are equivalent to a DT Comp or Wheelsmith DB14. They are a good default spoke. The D-light model has thinner butting (1.65mm at center versus 1.8mm) and shorter segments at the 2.0mm thickness; together this saves about 25g per wheel.

    CX-Rays are great spokes but not necessary. The additional shaping (for aero shape) has the beneficial consequence of adding strength and fatigue resistance, despite their low weight. They will save about 45g per wheel versus Race spokes. Compared to the similar weight (but not aero) Laser models, they are WAY easier to build with since the bladed shape helps fight spoke wind-up. The upcharge for CX-Ray at BTLOS is actually pretty reasonable (~$1.25/spoke) compared to the $3+ per spoke retail price for CX-Ray many places in U.S.

    Careful w/ the centerlock brake hubs in your spec . . . all Ibis hubs I've ever seen were 6-bolt, so if you want to re-use the same rotors, you'll want 6-bolt.

    Also, if you have that new of a Ripley (v4) then I would contact Ibis and ask for an informal "crash replacement" deal on a new rim. I'd bet they will offer you a rim for half price or so. That's your fastest path to riding without a tube again. All you should need is new nipples; lacing over to a new rim is easier than building from scratch, so a shop charge should reflect that.
    At 1.25/spoke, that's very reasonable and I'd probably go that route for the weight savings.

    Doesn't Ibis have a replacement program (for free) on their rims? Maybe that's just carbon. Either way, it's worth checking.

  71. #9071
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildh View Post
    At 1.25/spoke, that's very reasonable and I'd probably go that route for the weight savings.

    Doesn't Ibis have a replacement program (for free) on their rims? Maybe that's just carbon. Either way, it's worth checking.
    I will likely go with the CX ray-thanks fella's.
    You are correct, I reached out to IBIS a couple days ago and they are sending me a new rim free or charge with the exception of shipping cost of course-very happy with this!

  72. #9072
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    Whatís the current thought on Toray T700 & T800 carbon fiber? Iíve read the various ďdescriptionĒ on the sellers websites, but was hoping to get a real-world answer.
    Allegedly a mix of the two is optimal, accomplishing strength with compliance (so they say). Is a wheel using only T700 that bad?
    Any input or am I losing sleep over nothing?

    Also, it seems the shipper Nextie is using (EMS) isnít servicing U.S. at the moment. Iíve been quoted $200 shipping via FedEx for my wheels.
    How has the freight price & shipping time been for any of you whoíve purchased wheels from ANY of the China suppliers lately?

    Thanks!

  73. #9073
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    EIE quoted $58 originally to ship my wheels in January, and shipped them via EMS just as the COVID crisis was unfolding.

    The wheels made it to the EMS distribution center in March, but did not move for 3 weeks. Luckily EIE was able to recover them.

    EMS had frozen all international service due to COVID-19, and I was lucky that the wheels were not lost. The best way to get my wheels was via FedEx, which cost $150. EIE covered 40% of the difference, because I placed the order based on the pre COVID quote, so I ended up paying around $120. I thought that was fair of them.

    Once the wheels left the FedEx facility in China, they were on my doorstep in 5 days.



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  74. #9074
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    Last I heard, my wifeís new gravel/road rims had shipped on 4/22. Been a while...


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  75. #9075
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    Had some rims shipped via Cainiao which Carbonfan said was the only way they could get them on the way. It's been 48 days since they've been in the airline's possession. But I'm not in a hurry.

  76. #9076
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    Thanks isle blue.
    Glad to know itís not just me (and not just Nextie). I suspected there might be issues, but wanted to check with yíall.
    Alice at Nextie did offer me a $60 off my wheelset, so that seems kinda inline with your experience.

  77. #9077
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    For what it's worth, I emailed BTLOS about the whole shipping situation to the US since I'm interested in buying a full wheelset from them. Amy from BTLOS stated EMS is out of the question and they'll provide a free upgrade to FedEx.

  78. #9078
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    For what it's worth, I emailed BTLOS about the whole shipping situation to the US since I'm interested in buying a full wheelset from them. Amy from BTLOS stated EMS is out of the question and they'll provide a free upgrade to FedEx.
    Thanks for the heads up. I'm looking to order a set for a new singlespeed I'm building. The frame is coming from China and they stated the same thing about EMS. As of right now, shipping will cost $230 for a Ti frame from China to the US using DHL.

  79. #9079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autonomous G View Post
    Any input or am I losing sleep over nothing?
    You're losing sleep over nothing. (coming from an engineer who likes to overthink and loose sleep from every decision regarding his cars and pedal bikes)

    From my experience with Nextie, their hoops work. My wheels have held up to my lack of concern for their survival on two bikes now. I'm not even sure which flavor of carbon they're made from.

    I have a third set on the way for my gravel bike, I assume those will deliver the same experience.

  80. #9080
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    Quote Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
    (coming from an engineer who likes to overthink and loose sleep from every decision regarding his cars and pedal bikes)
    Yep, that's me right there. I even made a spreadsheet for all the possible wheelsets I was considering. SMH

    Anyway, thanks for the input. My budget is exactly $1k, and not a dollar more (had to sell some old bikes to justifiy the purchase). LB certainy does a good job of promoting their product with all their videos expaling damn near everything. Plus their North American warehouse means I (theoretically) wont have overseas shipping issues. Mulling over their "premium" Recon Pro vs standard Recon and if it's worth the extra $.
    Strong, Light, Cheap: Pick...well y'all know the rest.

  81. #9081
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    For what it's worth, I emailed BTLOS about the whole shipping situation to the US since I'm interested in buying a full wheelset from them. Amy from BTLOS stated EMS is out of the question and they'll provide a free upgrade to FedEx.
    That's a heck of a deal.

  82. #9082
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    Just ordered the following wheelset build from BTLOS. Will update as I get build and shipping updates.

    This will be going on my Yeti SB100, so a mix of XC/trail. I wanted something ~1300-1400g, 29-30mm inner width (looking to try out the new Maxxis WT XC tires), and for less than ~$900. Spent quite a bit of time going back and forth between EIE and BTLOS since their builds came out pretty similar in price and specs. Settled with BTLOS, but was flip flopping between the i30 in "Extralight" spec (360g) and i29 Asym in "Premium" spec (390g). Even though I don't weigh much and I take it easy on wheels, I wanted something a touch more durable so I went with the i29A.

    WM-i29A
    - Rim Size: 29er
    - Series: Premium
    - Version: AM
    - Finish: Matte
    - Weave: UD
    - Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    - Spoke Count: 28H/28H
    - Ratchet: Upgrade 54T
    - Hub Color: Black
    - Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    - Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    - Freehub: SRAM XD
    - Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    - Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    - Spoke System: Straight pull
    - Nipple: Aluminium Black
    - Decal colors: None

  83. #9083
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    I recently picked up some wheelbuilding tools, a spoke cutter, tensioner, etc and bought a few boxes of spokes and some highly discounted high end 2019 hubs.

    Now I am just looking for the lowest cost 30i AM style carbon rim. Preferably somewhere that might have some stock over here in the US. I bought a wheelset from EIE about 12 months ago and love it, but for this project I just want to find a few rims to build up for a second and third bike. I seem to recall one of the outfits had a rep over here who had some of the merchandise in stock over here in the US....

  84. #9084
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    I recently picked up some wheelbuilding tools, a spoke cutter, tensioner, etc and bought a few boxes of spokes and some highly discounted high end 2019 hubs.

    Now I am just looking for the lowest cost 30i AM style carbon rim. Preferably somewhere that might have some stock over here in the US. I bought a wheelset from EIE about 12 months ago and love it, but for this project I just want to find a few rims to build up for a second and third bike. I seem to recall one of the outfits had a rep over here who had some of the merchandise in stock over here in the US....
    What spoke cutter did you get? And what hubs?

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  85. #9085
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    I got the $179 threader on Amazon. Once set up in a vice and once you practice on a few spokes it works really well. I build a wheel, including cutting/threading the 28 spokes in a few hours. The tensioner is also key, I had tried to build without one of those and rely on pitch. It's super easy with one.

    Hubs, XTR. I mostly use DT 240s but these were so cheap I could not pass them up.

  86. #9086
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    Quote Originally Posted by backinmysaddle View Post
    I got the $179 threader on Amazon. Once set up in a vice and once you practice on a few spokes it works really well. I build a wheel, including cutting/threading the 28 spokes in a few hours. The tensioner is also key, I had tried to build without one of those and rely on pitch. It's super easy with one.

    Hubs, XTR. I mostly use DT 240s but these were so cheap I could not pass them up.
    Huh, I didn't know of that option. Does it cut or roll the threads?

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  87. #9087
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Just ordered the following wheelset build from BTLOS. Will update as I get build and shipping updates.

    This will be going on my Yeti SB100, so a mix of XC/trail. I wanted something ~1300-1400g, 29-30mm inner width (looking to try out the new Maxxis WT XC tires), and for less than ~$900. Spent quite a bit of time going back and forth between EIE and BTLOS since their builds came out pretty similar in price and specs. Settled with BTLOS, but was flip flopping between the i30 in "Extralight" spec (360g) and i29 Asym in "Premium" spec (390g). Even though I don't weigh much and I take it easy on wheels, I wanted something a touch more durable so I went with the i29A.

    WM-i29A
    - Rim Size: 29er
    - Series: Premium
    - Version: AM
    - Finish: Matte
    - Weave: UD
    - Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    - Spoke Count: 28H/28H
    - Ratchet: Upgrade 54T
    - Hub Color: Black
    - Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    - Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    - Freehub: SRAM XD
    - Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    - Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    - Spoke System: Straight pull
    - Nipple: Aluminium Black
    - Decal colors: None
    I ordered this same exact wheel set part for part about 3 weeks ago. They have not shipped yet but I will let you know what I think of them as soon as I get them. Iím going to be running them on a new Ripley V4 that I wanted to get a lighter weight wheel set on. I also went back and forth between EIE and BTLOS. Then was thinking about the extralight but ended up with I29 premiums. Iím coming off of 5 years on light bicycle rims with Dt 240ís. They were absolutely bomber and I beat the crap out of them. Iím hoping the BTLOS hold up as well.

  88. #9088
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    I ordered this same exact wheel set part for part about 3 weeks ago. They have not shipped yet but I will let you know what I think of them as soon as I get them. Iím going to be running them on a new Ripley V4 that I wanted to get a lighter weight wheel set on. I also went back and forth between EIE and BTLOS. Then was thinking about the extralight but ended up with I29 premiums. Iím coming off of 5 years on light bicycle rims with Dt 240ís. They were absolutely bomber and I beat the crap out of them. Iím hoping the BTLOS hold up as well.
    Definitely let me know when you get them! The WM-i29a's seem like a popular choice.

    EIE seems to have a pretty good reputation. I went with BTLOS based on positive feedback from a very experienced wheel builder who's built up wheels with components from more high end and mainstream brands. He claims the rims look and feel solid and build up very easily.

  89. #9089
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    After 2 sets of Nextie rims and multiple rims and frames from XMCarbonspeed, Iíve decided to give Elite Carbon a try. Their actual AliExpress store name is Elite Carbon wheels factory store. I confirmed the order of two sets of rims on the 19th of June and I should see them by the end of July. They have some pretty good sale prices right now with the AliExpress 6.18 sale. Hopefully everything goes as advertised.

    Rim 1 (mine):
    29er asymmetric XC rim
    33mm outer
    27mm inner
    29mm depth
    350g advertised weight
    28 hole
    12k twill weave
    Matte finish

    Rim 2 (for a friend):
    27.5 symmetrical AM rim
    40mm outer
    35mm inner
    30mm depth
    450g advertised weight
    28 hole
    Ud weave
    Matte finish

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_dWS7ZiY

  90. #9090
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    Really hoping BTLOS or EIE will do a sale for fathers day or july 4th!

  91. #9091
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachua View Post
    Really hoping BTLOS or EIE will do a sale for fathers day or july 4th!
    Indeed, would be nice.

  92. #9092
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    After 59 days of transit time, my Aliexpress shipped rims have arrived in the USA. Not at my door, just on the continent...somewhere.

  93. #9093
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerVernon View Post
    After 59 days of transit time, my Aliexpress shipped rims have arrived in the USA. Not at my door, just on the continent...somewhere.
    What was the date they ďshippedĒ? Mine shipped on April 22nd. Trying to get an idea of what kind of timeline I might be looking at here.


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  94. #9094
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    Accepted by carrier 4-21-20

  95. #9095
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Definitely let me know when you get them! The WM-i29a's seem like a popular choice.

    EIE seems to have a pretty good reputation. I went with BTLOS based on positive feedback from a very experienced wheel builder who's built up wheels with components from more high end and mainstream brands. He claims the rims look and feel solid and build up very easily.
    Well that certainly is very good to hear. I appreciate the information. I picked them because the they had the specs I was looking for at a competitive weight for the right price.

  96. #9096
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    I ordered this same exact wheel set part for part about 3 weeks ago. They have not shipped yet but I will let you know what I think of them as soon as I get them. Iím going to be running them on a new Ripley V4 that I wanted to get a lighter weight wheel set on. I also went back and forth between EIE and BTLOS. Then was thinking about the extralight but ended up with I29 premiums. Iím coming off of 5 years on light bicycle rims with Dt 240ís. They were absolutely bomber and I beat the crap out of them. Iím hoping the BTLOS hold up as well.
    I am looking at almost the same build but are you at all concerned about the 28 spoke count and the aluminum nipples for durability? I also have a V4 Ripley and i would like the new set under 1500g so there is at least a sizeable weight savings from the stock.
    I ride mainly XC/Trail style. With same build with 32 spoke/brass nipples and 6 bolt hubs the built is ~1630g or something like that. I might save more to get the 240's to save more weight.

  97. #9097
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    I am looking at almost the same build but are you at all concerned about the 28 spoke count and the aluminum nipples for durability? I also have a V4 Ripley and i would like the new set under 1500g so there is at least a sizeable weight savings from the stock.
    I ride mainly XC/Trail style. With same build with 32 spoke/brass nipples and 6 bolt hubs the built is ~1630g or something like that. I might save more to get the 240's to save more weight.
    I know the question isn't directed at me but let me chime in. A 32 spoke / brass nipple build is always the safe bet as they will be stronger. That being said, if you're not a clyde and don't ride like a hack hitting every sharp rock in sight, you should be fine. If you're stuck on a 32 hole build, go with DT 350 hubs for centerlock rotors. The main difference between the 240s and the 350 is the amount of machining that takes place. Compare the two hubs with 6 bolt rotors and you'll see the difference in material. Then compare the centerlock ones. Most of that material is gone and the weight difference is negligible.

  98. #9098
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    I know the question isn't directed at me but let me chime in. A 32 spoke / brass nipple build is always the safe bet as they will be stronger. That being said, if you're not a clyde and don't ride like a hack hitting every sharp rock in sight, you should be fine. If you're stuck on a 32 hole build, go with DT 350 hubs for centerlock rotors. The main difference between the 240s and the 350 is the amount of machining that takes place. Compare the two hubs with 6 bolt rotors and you'll see the difference in material. Then compare the centerlock ones. Most of that material is gone and the weight difference is negligible.
    Thanks for the input, the only drawback for me is i will need to get new rotors if I go with the center lock. That being said can anyone recommend good lighter weight rotors that go with the shimano SLX on my Ripley V4?

  99. #9099
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    Iím not sure what the SLX rotors weigh in at but I know the XT center lock is a bit lighter than the XT 6 bolt. Not by much though. But if youíre counting grams, it all adds up. The lock rings are lighter than the bolts as well.

  100. #9100
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    I am looking at almost the same build but are you at all concerned about the 28 spoke count and the aluminum nipples for durability? I also have a V4 Ripley and i would like the new set under 1500g so there is at least a sizeable weight savings from the stock.
    I ride mainly XC/Trail style. With same build with 32 spoke/brass nipples and 6 bolt hubs the built is ~1630g or something like that. I might save more to get the 240's to save more weight.
    To be honest I have never had 28 holes so Iím slightly concerned but not enough to stop me from pulling the trigger. I only weigh 155 lbs but I ride fairly aggressively. I like to think that I ride fairly smoothly but I absolutely smash into things from time to time. My current wheels have DT 240ís. I love the hubs but decided I didnít want to pay for them again. I know quite a few people running 28 holes that have no issues. Hopefully I have the same experience.

  101. #9101
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    To be honest I have never had 28 holes so Iím slightly concerned but not enough to stop me from pulling the trigger. I only weigh 155 lbs but I ride fairly aggressively. I like to think that I ride fairly smoothly but I absolutely smash into things from time to time. My current wheels have DT 240ís. I love the hubs but decided I didnít want to pay for them again. I know quite a few people running 28 holes that have no issues. Hopefully I have the same experience.
    Meant to mention this previously but I am currently running aluminum nipples for the past 5 years on Sapim CX-ray spokes and have had zero issues with either.

    Also another note Amy with BTLOS has been exceptional to work with. Her communication has been excellent. I now have a tracking number on the wheels and hope to have them sometime next week.
    Last edited by thenry; 06-24-2020 at 02:16 PM.

  102. #9102
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    Meant to mention this previously but I am currently running aluminum nipples for the past 5 years on Spain CX-ray spikes and have had zero issues with either.

    Also another not Amy has with BTLOS has been exceptional to work with. Her communication has been excellent. I now have a tracking number on the wheels and hope to have them sometime next week.
    Good to hear this. I'm still on the fence but will likely go with them. Amy has been responsive. Did you consider going 32 on the rear tire? I think i may do that as a middle ground.

  103. #9103
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Good to hear this. I'm still on the fence but will likely go with them. Amy has been responsive. Did you consider going 32 on the rear tire? I think i may do that as a middle ground.
    I think you guys are over thinking this. I'm 185 pounds and running a 28h 2x build with CX-Ray spokes on my trail bike that's had some good abuse with no issues. The straight pull hubs will only use a 3x build essentially making them stronger. If you stick with the 28h front and rear, all of your spokes will be 300mm. Keep it simple. If you're that worried about spoke count, you might want to consider a more durable spoke as well.

  104. #9104
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    I weigh 170. I ride pretty hard, not the hardest, but harder than most. I have 28 spokes, cx-ray and aluminum nips on almost all of my wheels. Never had an issue. My Roval actually has 24 spokes up front and super skinny spokes and it has been going three years strong taking the abuse of a coil bike hitting everything moab has to offer frequently.

  105. #9105
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    I weigh 170. I ride pretty hard, not the hardest, but harder than most. I have 28 spokes, cx-ray and aluminum nips on almost all of my wheels. Never had an issue. My Roval actually has 24 spokes up front and super skinny spokes and it has been going three years strong taking the abuse of a coil bike hitting everything moab has to offer frequently.
    Thanks for the input! I'm 175 so that's great to know. I have been typically easy on wheels until this year when I have already damaged 2 rims. The good news is it was the same sketchy gap i was trying to clear each time and I'm done with it now...

  106. #9106
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Good to hear this. I'm still on the fence but will likely go with them. Amy has been responsive. Did you consider going 32 on the rear tire? I think i may do that as a middle ground.
    Nope I went all in on 28h front and back. I know people that out weigh me by quite a bit that are fine on 28h, so I just went for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    I think you guys are over thinking this. I'm 185 pounds and running a 28h 2x build with CX-Ray spokes on my trail bike that's had some good abuse with no issues. The straight pull hubs will only use a 3x build essentially making them stronger. If you stick with the 28h front and rear, all of your spokes will be 300mm. Keep it simple. If you're that worried about spoke count, you might want to consider a more durable spoke as well.
    This is an extremely comforting bit of advise. My current set of wheels are the first set of carbon wheels I have owned. At first they made me a bit nervous. After about 3 rides I realized I had no need to be nervous. Now I don't even think about them. I have spent all of about 5 minutes with a spoke wrench over 5 years. In the past I spent a lot of time truing up aluminum wheels often.

    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    I weigh 170. I ride pretty hard, not the hardest, but harder than most. I have 28 spokes, cx-ray and aluminum nips on almost all of my wheels. Never had an issue. My Roval actually has 24 spokes up front and super skinny spokes and it has been going three years strong taking the abuse of a coil bike hitting everything moab has to offer frequently.
    Thanks for the input! If a 24 spoke can deal with the abuse, 28 spoke should be great. I have had the feeling that 32 spoke was a bit of overkill for my weight.

  107. #9107
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    I'm 185 pounds and recently got a new wheelset built up with Nexte Ultralight 28mm id rims with carbon ti hubs that came in at around 1300g for my XC bike. The wheelbuilder suggested we'd go 28/32 for this build. I Could have saved another 50 or so grams but figured what the hell. I rather have a strong and long lasting wheel than have to service it every other ride. I can't tell if 24/28 would have been sufficient but if you don't know anything about wheels (like me) then I can recommend going with the slightly heavier but burlier version.

  108. #9108
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    Its been awhile since I bought rims. I have some light bicycle dt240S 1315gm 29ers XC wheels that are at least 6 years old and still as true today as they were when I got them. Been hammering on some dt240s 1530gm 35mm internal ACE bike(yishun?) AM wheels on my remedy for a few seasons. Still true and no issues. Im just under 200lbs and cant complain. I bought the ACE bike wheels because LB seemed a little to proud of their stuff with their pricing. I noticed the ACE bike site is down so I emailed and they said they are working on it and check out their yishun site. The reason I bring all this up is I need a set of DH wheels. I checked out the BTLOS site and I like their ASM 29er wheel and the price $710 with dt350 hubs 20x110, 12x157 seems right. Who really makes their wheels? I was under the impression that yishun is an actual manufacture. May just have them whip up a set. Any other brands I should checkout? I didnt like the profile of farsports. The Nextie and carbonfan wheels seem overpriced.
    Last edited by ThrottleAbuse; 06-26-2020 at 07:44 AM.

  109. #9109
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse View Post
    Its been awhile since I bought rims. I have some light bicycle dt240S 1315gm 29ers XC wheels that are at least 6 years old and still as true today as they were when I got them. Been hammering on some dt240s 1530gm 35mm internal ACE bike(yishun?) AM wheels on my remedy for a few seasons. Still true and no issues. Im just under 200lbs and cant complain. I bought the ACE bike wheels because LB seemed a little to proud of their stuff with their pricing. I noticed the ACE bike site is down so I emailed and they said they are working on it and check out their yoshun site. The reason I bring all this up is I need a set of DH wheels. I checked out the BTLOS site and I like their ASM 29er wheel and the price $710 with dt350 hubs 20x110, 12x157 seems right. Who really makes their wheels? I was under the impression that yishun is an actual manufacture. May just have them whip up a set. Any other brands I should checkout? I didnt like the profile of farsports. The Nextie and carbonfan wheels seem overpriced.
    I just checked the yishun site you mentioned and i started noticing some familiar looking parts. Recently i've been compiling a mental build for an all carbon rigid xc build using the LightCarbon LCM908 frame. I'll be damned if Yishun doens't also list the M908 frame which is the same thing. Looking at some of the wheels, they have the same array of DTswiss based wheels, forks, components, same pn's, etc. So im not sure who is the parent company, but those two sites definitely have the same items. However, i dont see any variation with a superboost hub.

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    I think there's one place all these rims are made, maybe subbed out to. It's why Carbonfan has a gazillion rim profiles and so many companies share the same rim shape. Same mold, made by the same mysterious shadow people.

  111. #9111
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse View Post
    Its been awhile since I bought rims. I have some light bicycle dt240S 1315gm 29ers XC wheels that are at least 6 years old and still as true today as they were when I got them. Been hammering on some dt240s 1530gm 35mm internal ACE bike(yishun?) AM wheels on my remedy for a few seasons. Still true and no issues. Im just under 200lbs and cant complain. I bought the ACE bike wheels because LB seemed a little to proud of their stuff with their pricing. I noticed the ACE bike site is down so I emailed and they said they are working on it and check out their yoshun site. The reason I bring all this up is I need a set of DH wheels. I checked out the BTLOS site and I like their ASM 29er wheel and the price $710 with dt350 hubs 20x110, 12x157 seems right. Who really makes their wheels? I was under the impression that yishun is an actual manufacture. May just have them whip up a set. Any other brands I should checkout? I didnt like the profile of farsports. The Nextie and carbonfan wheels seem overpriced.
    Not sure where they are made but I'm yet to see a negative review on BTLOS on this forum. I will be going with them when i finally pull the trigger.

  112. #9112
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonF1 View Post
    I just checked the yishun site you mentioned and i started noticing some familiar looking parts. Recently i've been compiling a mental build for an all carbon rigid xc build using the LightCarbon LCM908 frame. I'll be damned if Yishun doens't also list the M908 frame which is the same thing. Looking at some of the wheels, they have the same array of DTswiss based wheels, forks, components, same pn's, etc. So im not sure who is the parent company, but those two sites definitely have the same items. However, i dont see any variation with a superboost hub.
    The real wuestion is yishun another reseller or the manufacture

  113. #9113
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse View Post
    The real wuestion is yishun another reseller or the manufacture
    Not sure of the validity, but the road bike world has been buing chinese carbon frames for a good while longer than the mtb world and may have a good handle on the business structure over there. The below post describes a relationship of Yishun and LightCarbon with one doing the frames and the other wheels and combined they offer each others product to cover the major items.

    https://forums.roadbikereview.com/bi...ml#post5102089

  114. #9114
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    Does anyone know who builds the BTLOS wheels? It may not matter as I asked them to quote me pricing on a build by email and have not heard back so it may be a mute point.

  115. #9115
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    Meant to mention this previously but I am currently running aluminum nipples for the past 5 years on Sapim CX-ray spokes and have had zero issues with either.

    Also another note Amy with BTLOS has been exceptional to work with. Her communication has been excellent. I now have a tracking number on the wheels and hope to have them sometime next week.
    Great to hear and I'm anxious to get your feedback on them. It sounds like the build time is about 3-4 weeks from order placement? (I'm the guy who ordered the same wheel build as you, just changed my username).

  116. #9116
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    Is LB the only Chinese rim manufacturer that builds sets in the US, has warehouse/inventory?

    Wish the NA location offered more options but I get it.
    Sometimes Rickety, not a turd

  117. #9117
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    I remember seeing in another thread that BTLOS was a manufacturer and sent a user some pics from the factory floor. If someone is in communication with them they could ask the same. If the pics are the same ones as the other thread then Iíd question whether they are. Regardless Iím super happy with my year old set. Iíll be getting another set from them when I order my Occam.

  118. #9118
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    Most of these brands are just individuals that live near and have access to the factories that also produce oem stuff.
    It's all essentially the same with a few proprietary designs thrown in.
    I have my 3rd order in with Arthur at Carbon Fans and I can request specifics and he goes and has it made to my desires even if it's not on his website.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  119. #9119
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    Great to hear and I'm anxious to get your feedback on them. It sounds like the build time is about 3-4 weeks from order placement? (I'm the guy who ordered the same wheel build as you, just changed my username).
    It will be about 3 1/2 weeks for me. Apparently they have had a difficult time getting them shipped due to COVID. Totally get it and I wasnít expecting them quickly. If I get them sometime next week that would be great.

  120. #9120
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    Meant to mention this previously but I am currently running aluminum nipples for the past 5 years on Sapim CX-ray spokes and have had zero issues with either.
    When saying this, have you pulled the rim tape and actually looked at the condition of the nipples?
    Ripley LS v3
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  121. #9121
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    Got some rims in via the Aliexpress shipping; took 66 days from middle of April.

  122. #9122
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    When saying this, have you pulled the rim tape and actually looked at the condition of the nipples?
    I have pulled the rim tape but it was about 6 months ago. When the wheels first showed up from light bicycle they had greased/or maybe put some kind of anti seize around each nipple. After 5 years they still look good. I know there can be a corrosive interaction between carbon and aluminum, but my wheels donít seem to have any signs of it. My understanding is that improved anodizing on the aluminum nips can help make this corrosion a non issue. Iím also in Colorado and it is usually very dusty and dry. I donít ride the trails wet out here as they are heavily ďclayĒ based and it really does a number on them. Not sure but maybe thatís part of it?

  123. #9123
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    I have pulled the rim tape but it was about 6 months ago. When the wheels first showed up from light bicycle they had greased/or maybe put some kind of anti seize around each nipple. After 5 years they still look good. I know there can be a corrosive interaction between carbon and aluminum, but my wheels donít seem to have any signs of it. My understanding is that improved anodizing on the aluminum nips can help make this corrosion a non issue. Iím also in Colorado and it is usually very dusty and dry. I donít ride the trails wet out here as they are heavily ďclayĒ based and it really does a number on them. Not sure but maybe thatís part of it?
    I would not call it a non-issue. A dry climate and keeping the bike dry after a ride are helpful in my experience. It's not a bad idea to figure on re-nippling the aluminum nipples every couple years, but yes, dry climates, immediately drying the bike, avoiding salt, etc., these can definitely help and increase the longevity, along with the measures taken when building the wheels. The other big one is good taping jobs and not just adding sealant and sloshing it around when the tire won't seal. That usually means that sealant is getting into the double-wall portion of the rim and yes, you can often use the sealant to "seal" this, but water and the stuff in it (especially ammonia) will greatly speed up the corrosion process. Someone on FB in the fat-bike group posted a WTB/Stans valve that had literally corroded in half. So if you have problems, take the appropriate measures, don't try to "add more sealant" till it goes away.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  124. #9124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I would not call it a non-issue. A dry climate and keeping the bike dry after a ride are helpful in my experience. It's not a bad idea to figure on re-nippling the aluminum nipples every couple years, but yes, dry climates, immediately drying the bike, avoiding salt, etc., these can definitely help and increase the longevity, along with the measures taken when building the wheels. The other big one is good taping jobs and not just adding sealant and sloshing it around when the tire won't seal. That usually means that sealant is getting into the double-wall portion of the rim and yes, you can often use the sealant to "seal" this, but water and the stuff in it (especially ammonia) will greatly speed up the corrosion process. Someone on FB in the fat-bike group posted a WTB/Stans valve that had literally corroded in half. So if you have problems, take the appropriate measures, don't try to "add more sealant" till it goes away.
    Great info! Iím not worried about it and have a new set of wheels on the way with aluminum nips and CX-ray spokes. Other than a very thorough tape job I havenít done anything special to take care of the wheels I have. They sit with a nice layer of dust on them most of the time. Iím going to be selling my current bike shortly. Iíll re-tape a wheel before I list it. Donít want to sell someone a problem.

  125. #9125
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    Great info! Iím not worried about it and have a new set of wheels on the way with aluminum nips and CX-ray spokes. Other than a very thorough tape job I havenít done anything special to take care of the wheels I have. They sit with a nice layer of dust on them most of the time. Iím going to be selling my current bike shortly. Iíll re-tape a wheel before I list it. Donít want to sell someone a problem.
    Ok so I pulled my rear tire and removed the tape. No signs of any corrosion at any interface that I can see. Itís hard to tell from the pic but the spoke threads are actually going beyond the end of the nipple. If I found trouble here I would pull the front tape as well. At this point I feel better about selling them and will call it good. I certainly appreciate the input on the subject. Iím thinking about applying a dollop of grease with a q tip to the back of each nipple/spoke thread on the new wheels before I tape them up. Thanks to all for the good discussion on this topic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-31ca317b-aaac-484e-8efb-fdc7109ca6d2.jpg  


  126. #9126
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    Ok so I pulled my rear tire and removed the tape. No signs of any corrosion at any interface that I can see. Itís hard to tell from the pic but the spoke threads are actually going beyond the end of the nipple. If I found trouble here I would pull the front tape as well. At this point I feel better about selling them and will call it good. I certainly appreciate the input on the subject. Iím thinking about applying a dollop of grease with a q tip to the back of each nipple/spoke thread on the new wheels before I tape them up. Thanks to all for the good discussion on this topic.
    For further reference these wheels have not led an easy life.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-630c100b-cb34-4dfe-a9e0-7988424f4b74.jpg  


  127. #9127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Most of these brands are just individuals that live near and have access to the factories that also produce oem stuff.
    It's all essentially the same with a few proprietary designs thrown in.
    I have my 3rd order in with Arthur at Carbon Fans and I can request specifics and he goes and has it made to my desires even if it's not on his website.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Arthur is super helpful and I like Carbon fan rims that I have built up. Made a set of 27.5 under 1100g for under $1000 and a pair of 29er under 1200g for under $1000

  128. #9128
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    Nice.
    That's light!

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  129. #9129
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    Definitely let me know when you get them! The WM-i29a's seem like a popular choice.

    EIE seems to have a pretty good reputation. I went with BTLOS based on positive feedback from a very experienced wheel builder who's built up wheels with components from more high end and mainstream brands. He claims the rims look and feel solid and build up very easily.
    So I got my first ride on the new wheels and I was extremely pleased. Build quality seems very good. Wheels are true and tensioned well. I took them through some significant chunk on their first ride out. Rear flat that the sealant couldnít take care of. Got home and the rear wheel is still perfectly true. Doesnít hurt that it shaved the better part of a pound of rotating mass off my bike. I felt like I borrowed someone elseís more fit legs and lungs for the night. Iím impressed so far. We will see how they hold up!

  130. #9130
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    So I got my first ride on the new wheels and I was extremely pleased. Build quality seems very good. Wheels are true and tensioned well. I took them through some significant chunk on their first ride out. Rear flat that the sealant couldnít take care of. Got home and the rear wheel is still perfectly true. Doesnít hurt that it shaved the better part of a pound of rotating mass off my bike. I felt like I borrowed someone elseís more fit legs and lungs for the night. Iím impressed so far. We will see how they hold up!
    Thanks for the update with your initial impressions! Were you able to weigh them at all?

    I haven't heard anything from BTLOS in the past 3 weeks or so, but I'll check in with them to see where they're at.

  131. #9131
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    Thanks for the update with your initial impressions! Were you able to weigh them at all?

    I haven't heard anything from BTLOS in the past 3 weeks or so, but I'll check in with them to see where they're at.
    No I didnít weigh them. Each wheel came with a quality control tag that included the weight. The combined total was 1485 grams. A bit heavier than the 1466 they were listed at but within the stated tolerances of plus or minus 25 grams per wheel set.

  132. #9132
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    Heads up - Nextie is offering discounts for their 7 year anniversary. https://www.nextie.com/7-year-anniversary

    $40 off for order amount over $300
    $60 off for order amount over $500
    $100 off for order amount over $800
    $120 off for order amount over $1000

    Also comes with some free swag, tubeless valves, and tape.

  133. #9133
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    No I didnít weigh them. Each wheel came with a quality control tag that included the weight. The combined total was 1485 grams. A bit heavier than the 1466 they were listed at but within the stated tolerances of plus or minus 25 grams per wheel set.
    After about a dozen more rides I am very impressed with this wheel set. for an update to anyone reading this they are as follows

    BTLOS ID- 29mm in the premium layup
    Dt swiss - straight pull - 350 hubs 28 hole - 54 tooth star ratchet
    Aluminum nipples
    sapim cx-ray spokes

    First off the wheels shaved about 3/4 of a pound off of my rotating mass which was a game changer. Between wheels and tires a full pound of rotating mass from the bike.

    I have taken these down high speed chunk and flatted a tire on them. Went to the bike park and cased some jumps(really impressive riding - read last phrase with loads of sarcasm). They are still perfectly true. I am impressed!!

    Based on some of the concerns by others regarding the reaction between aluminum and carbon I put a drip of grease on the inside of the spoke nipple before I taped them up for tubeless, as well as drip from the outside of the nipple as well. I have done the carbon/aluminium before and not had an issue but I believe other people that say they have. I know people that have had aluminum seat posts seize in carbon frames.... and also science says it will happen. Hopefully my good fortune with these wheels will continue.
    Last edited by thenry; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:21 PM.

  134. #9134
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenry View Post
    After about a dozen more rides I am very impressed with this wheel set. for an update to anyone reading this they are as follows

    BTLOS ID- 29mm in the premium layup
    Dt swiss - straight pull - 350 hubs 28 hole - 54 tooth star ratchet
    Aluminum nipples
    sapim cx-ray spokes

    First off the wheels shaved about 3/4 of a pound off of my rotating mass which was a game changer. Between wheels and tires a full pound of rotating mass from the bike.

    I have taken these down high speed chunk and flatted a tire on them. Went to the bike park and cased some jumps(really impressive riding - read last phrase with loads of sarcasm). They are still perfectly true. I am impressed!!

    Based on some of the concerns by others regarding the reaction between aluminum and carbon I put a drip of grease on the inside of the spoke nipple before I taped them up for tubeless, as well as drip from the outside of the nipple as well. I have done the carbon/aluminium before and not had an issue but I believe other people that say they have. I know people that have had aluminum seat posts seize in carbon frames.... and also science says it will happen. Hopefully my good fortune with these wheels will continue.
    Is this the asymmetric?

  135. #9135
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrylruddock View Post
    Is this the asymmetric?
    Yes it is

  136. #9136
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    BTLOS Shipping

    I ordered a set of BTLOS WMi24-A wheels, they quoted me 12 business days to build and 5 to ship via FedEx. They shipped them on the 12th day but then they sat somewhere in Hong Kong for 5 days without moving. They finally say "in transit" on the tracking but I have no idea how long this will take.

  137. #9137
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    I have no idea how long this will take.

    few more weeks, as long as customs here doesnt delay it

  138. #9138
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    I ordered a set of BTLOS WMi24-A wheels, they quoted me 12 business days to build and 5 to ship via FedEx. They shipped them on the 12th day but then they sat somewhere in Hong Kong for 5 days without moving. They finally say "in transit" on the tracking but I have no idea how long this will take.
    Ordered a set of BTLOS WMi29-A wheels on 6/16 and got FedEx shipment notification on 7/20, which is about a month later. Similarly, it sat in Hong Kong for a few days, but as of today 7/25, they're at least in the USA (in Memphis TN). I'm over in the west coast, so I'm thinking a few more days until they reach my doorstep.

  139. #9139
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    Same plane

    Mine just got to Memphis too, I'm in Reno so I am hoping to get them sometime this week.

  140. #9140
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    I just received a set of the lightest of these rims here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3296...61d64c4dw0El0t

    Haven't ridden them yet as I'm not too happy about some of the details, for example the holes in the rim bed are quite bad and the weight was above the given range.

    Now, as I thought about the whole thing I stumbled over some asymmetric rims, as far as I know products that weren't available when I ordered my symmetric rims in March.

    The ones I liked best so far are these two:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3300...51982e0e4qd2vv
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3290...51982e0e4qd2vv

    One is a little lighter, the other one has all these nice details about the manufacturing process. Elite Wheels / Yuan'an / Xiamen Carbon / XM Carbon on one side, the other one is Carbon Beam / Solo Team.

  141. #9141
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    I have been using these for the last 18 months for xc racing a trail riding on my Ibis Ripley and have so far held up fine. Have done 600-800km on them. They were on the lighter side by memory, maybe 320g. I weight 75ish kg when riding.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3299...27424c4dRP4eOK
    Giant Reign SX 29
    Ibis Ripley OG
    Santa Cruz Blur XCc

  142. #9142
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    Hi Folks, I read the last 50 posts or so but forgive me, I have not read all 9,141 posts in this thread but it looks like the right place for my entry level questions.

    I just purchased a carbon 2019 Transition Smuggler 29er with the stock Stan's wheelset and would like to upgrade to carbon. It has the SRAM Eagle 12 drivetrain.

    I am probably 165 with gear on and ride trail. I do get into some fast roots, chunk and small jumps but nothing too aggressive. I do right some moderate downhill trails too but I am fairly chill when I do and have been riding these trails on my other trail bikes for years. For more reference on how I ride, I've only had one flat in my many years of riding and never broken a spoke or bent a wheel

    I am just now learning about all the carbon wheel options, I had only previously seen the DIYcarbonbikes and looked at their ultralight (I think 34mm OD) trail rim which is stated around 350g as I recall, for $450 shipped/set.

    Into the questions:

    *Rim size: My stans look like about 35mm OD, and my DT swiss on my (27.5 Transition scout) are 30mm OD. Based on this and my riding style I've been looking at trail wheels with 30-35mm outside diameter. Does this seem right?

    Rim depth: This is all new to me, I have the sense that I want a mid to shallow rim depth. Any insight on this?

    *Rim to tire interface: I've been looking at hookless rims, this appears to be the most modern approach with carbon wheels. Is that wise and are their any special considerations here?

    *Hubs: I am thinking about re-using the stan's 32 spoke hubs (I have a set of Hope PRO4 in my 27.5 that I could strip out too) Both are symmetrical. Can either of these hubs be used with Asymmetrical rims or do the hubs have to be for asymmetrical? Any reason not to recycle my Stan's hubs? I think the hopes, while sexy, are heavier, they feel the same to me when I ride in terms of performance.

    Symmetrical: related to the question above, would asymmetrical be a no-brain'r for me?

    *I mostly saw EIE and BTLOS talked about here, are these "generally" considered better options than the many ebay sellers, or DIYCarbonbikes?

    Thanks in advance for helping point me in the right direction before I make an impulse buy.

  143. #9143
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    Have you received your wheels?

    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    Ordered a set of BTLOS WMi29-A wheels on 6/16 and got FedEx shipment notification on 7/20, which is about a month later. Similarly, it sat in Hong Kong for a few days, but as of today 7/25, they're at least in the USA (in Memphis TN). I'm over in the west coast, so I'm thinking a few more days until they reach my doorstep.
    Mine have been held up in customs...Fedex contacted me and asked me to fill out a form, which I did, but it was denied. I filled out another form per customs but they have not been released yet. They have been sitting there for 5 days now.

  144. #9144
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    Quote Originally Posted by markcm View Post
    Hi Folks, I read the last 50 posts or so but forgive me, I have not read all 9,141 posts in this thread but it looks like the right place for my entry level questions.


    *Rim size: My stans look like about 35mm OD, and my DT swiss on my (27.5 Transition scout) are 30mm OD. Based on this and my riding style I've been looking at trail wheels with 30-35mm outside diameter. Does this seem right?

    Rim depth: This is all new to me, I have the sense that I want a mid to shallow rim depth. Any insight on this?

    *Rim to tire interface: I've been looking at hookless rims, this appears to be the most modern approach with carbon wheels. Is that wise and are their any special considerations here?

    *Hubs: I am thinking about re-using the stan's 32 spoke hubs (I have a set of Hope PRO4 in my 27.5 that I could strip out too) Both are symmetrical. Can either of these hubs be used with Asymmetrical rims or do the hubs have to be for asymmetrical? Any reason not to recycle my Stan's hubs? I think the hopes, while sexy, are heavier, they feel the same to me when I ride in terms of performance.

    Symmetrical: related to the question above, would asymmetrical be a no-brain'r for me?

    *I mostly saw EIE and BTLOS talked about here, are these "generally" considered better options than the many ebay sellers, or DIYCarbonbikes?

    Thanks in advance for helping point me in the right direction before I make an impulse buy.
    Firstly, are you looking to build up your own wheels or get someone to build them for you/buy a wheelset? Do you currently only have one wheelset for the smuggler so would disassemble that to build new ones? If you're using the Hope pro4's from the other bike, does that mean the 27.5 wouldn't have wheels anymore?

    I've only built three wheelsets so pretty amateurish in this field compared to what advice others may offer. But i am a similar weight and have a similar bike with my Ibis ripley

    Rim width/size; don't refer to it as OD, this means outside diameter rather than width, use IW or OW if you want an abbreviation. 30mm internal width seems to be the sweet spot for trail bikes at the moment but will depend on what type of tyres you want to be using, but in saying that i'd be happy with 25-35mm. I have 25mm internal width rims for my ripley but next set i'd go closer to 30mm.

    Rim depth; i can't really offer anything other than don't go for deep rims like you're suggesting. Shallow rims to cost a bit more as they are typically newer designs. Look about half way down this webpage for some info on it
    https://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/new...rve-wheels/311

    Interface; hookless is fine now that tyres are pretty well designed and consistent in quality. I haven't had any problems (but only three wheelsets...)

    Hubs; i wouldn't recommend stans hubs because they're not the best quality but if your not breaking hubs then it'll probably be ok. Hopes would be better but if that means disassembling the other wheelset you have to weigh up if you want to loose those wheels or not. Hubs don't influence what kind of rims you need to pair with them (unless you're going to build wheels for rim brakes...), but you will need to know the dimensions of the hub to determine spoke lengths. You'll also need to know the rim ERD which isn't consistently measure by different manufacturers. I have always measured my rims for their ERD rather than relying on manufacture info.

    Assymetrical; I don't find this has much affect on the ride itself, but it can make building wheels easier as you might only need one spoke length to build a wheelset and theoretically builds a more tension balanced wheel.


    As said above, I've only built three wheelsets, but all three have used aliexpress/ebay rims and havn't had any issues with them. For me, because they're a lot cheaper I can justify building carbon wheels.
    Giant Reign SX 29
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  145. #9145
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    Quote Originally Posted by meschenbruch View Post
    Firstly, are you looking to build up your own wheels or get someone to build them for you/buy a wheelset? Do you currently only have one wheelset for the smuggler so would disassemble that to build new ones? If you're using the Hope pro4's from the other bike, does that mean the 27.5 wouldn't have wheels anymore?

    I've only built three wheelsets so pretty amateurish in this field compared to what advice others may offer. But i am a similar weight and have a similar bike with my Ibis ripley

    Rim width/size; don't refer to it as OD, this means outside diameter rather than width, use IW or OW if you want an abbreviation. 30mm internal width seems to be the sweet spot for trail bikes at the moment but will depend on what type of tyres you want to be using, but in saying that i'd be happy with 25-35mm. I have 25mm internal width rims for my ripley but next set i'd go closer to 30mm.

    Rim depth; i can't really offer anything other than don't go for deep rims like you're suggesting. Shallow rims to cost a bit more as they are typically newer designs. Look about half way down this webpage for some info on it
    https://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/new...rve-wheels/311

    Interface; hookless is fine now that tyres are pretty well designed and consistent in quality. I haven't had any problems (but only three wheelsets...)

    Hubs; i wouldn't recommend stans hubs because they're not the best quality but if your not breaking hubs then it'll probably be ok. Hopes would be better but if that means disassembling the other wheelset you have to weigh up if you want to loose those wheels or not. Hubs don't influence what kind of rims you need to pair with them (unless you're going to build wheels for rim brakes...), but you will need to know the dimensions of the hub to determine spoke lengths. You'll also need to know the rim ERD which isn't consistently measure by different manufacturers. I have always measured my rims for their ERD rather than relying on manufacture info.

    Assymetrical; I don't find this has much affect on the ride itself, but it can make building wheels easier as you might only need one spoke length to build a wheelset and theoretically builds a more tension balanced wheel.


    As said above, I've only built three wheelsets, but all three have used aliexpress/ebay rims and havn't had any issues with them. For me, because they're a lot cheaper I can justify building carbon wheels.
    Thanks for the input!

    I have several friends who are experienced wheel builders and have offered to help.

    My HOPE PRO4 are currently built into my 27.5" wheels on my Scout, I would have to take them apart and put back together with the stans hubs. Probably not the best approach because they are built really well right now.

    This will be my only wheel set for my smuggler. Right now I'm thinking a out just replacing the stans rims and stock spokes with some asymmetrical carbon rims on the stans hubs. We haven't had any issues with the other stans we have and the investment seems low enough to risk it.

    I ride a 2.25" rear tire and a 2.5" front. I was thinking in the 30-35mm OW measurement. It sounds like your suggestion is more toward the 35mm OW; I'll look closer at that.

    I haven't been on MTBR for awhile, geee was I ever confused with the "hybrid thread" mode, it took me 15 minutes to figure out why the heck I couldn't find these replies to this thread.

  146. #9146
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    ID-inner diameter. This is the correct term you want to be using. IW/OW are not used when describing wheels. You want to be looking at ID of wheels as the OD (outside diameter) means little.

    30mm ID is good for most tires. 2.3-2.6

    Asymmetrical lets you build a more even tensioned wheel so theoretically stronger, less of an issue the smaller your wheels.

    You want hookless. Rims with bead hooks are old tech and are going to be heavier and more prone to issues.

    Reusing hubs. Not usually an issue but remember that the hub has had spokes pressing into its flangers a certain way. You can add additional stress by relacing it in a different pattern and can lead to broken flanges. Also if you donít relace it in the exact same pattern then you have knick marks on the hub from how it was previously done. Not a big deal but not aesthetically pleasing

  147. #9147
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    Also, why do you want to move to carbon? Do you need a stiffer wheel? Weight savings?

    What model rim is the stans?

    Do you realize that there is a good chance you will have to replace the spokes as well, and I would do the nipples too just for good measure.

    Personally I would either ride the Stanís til it breaks or sell the wheelset and start from scratch with a quality hub which Stanís is not.

  148. #9148
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    I'm afraid i disagree on the width vs diameter statement you used Realdad
    Diameter is the term used to describe the dimension of a circle so that would describe the dimensions such as BSD- in which interestingly enough the d is diameter. Width describes width which is the the appropriate term for what Markcm is describing.

    I checked a number of pre-eminent wheel and rim manufacturers to double check and found they all used the above nomenclature

  149. #9149
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    I will stand corrected.

    On pretty much any site they will use Inner Width and Outer Width. I am aware of that.

    Pretty much anytime someone is talking about the rim though people are using ID. Maybe it has meant Inner Dimension (which is even more vague and incorrect).

    Either way the persona will know what you are talking about. ID is just more commonly used of the forums even if it is incorrect.

    Again the more important thing is to look at the inner width and not really care about outer width.

  150. #9150
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    agreed,
    especially since the 2 numbers differ by more than factor of 10 usually

    I do do agree that either riding or selling the existing wheel set is the best course vs re-using part

  151. #9151
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Also, why do you want to move to carbon? Do you need a stiffer wheel? Weight savings?

    What model rim is the stans?

    Do you realize that there is a good chance you will have to replace the spokes as well, and I would do the nipples to just for good measure.

    Personally I would either ride the Stanís til it breaks or sell the wheelset and start from scratch with a quality hub which Stanís is not.
    I have Stans NoTubes wheel sets now with the Stans Neo hubs; this is what came stock on Transition bikes in 2019.

    I am interested in switching to carbon after riding my friends Transition smuggler which had carbon. The lower weight made for a noticeably lower rolling mass, the bike was more responsive and was easier to pedal. I would like to improve my bike in the same way he did.

    And yes, weight savings is appealing. My bike (which is a carbon bike) weighs about 31 right now.

  152. #9152
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    Great input everyone, thanks again for this. And thanks for clarifying the dimensions, I was pretty confused on that first comment which mixed up width and diameter.

    One thing that these comments have me considering now are whether to do a full fresh build rather than re-purpose my hubs. My thought on this is that my front stans rim has a pretty good bend in it from the previous owner; it still functions fine but...

    It seems as though re-purposing my hubs will get me a rebuilt set of wheels with the carbon aspects I'm hoping for in the rim, I am happy enough with the stans hubs and the price for this route looks to be under $400. I haven't shopped for hubs yet but I am under the impression a new set of hubs that are "better than the stans" is going to cost a few hundred dollars alone.

    If I were to go for a full build, are there any popular hubs for boost axles which fall in the reasonably light, relatively durable, and cost effective range? I'm not interested in bling.

  153. #9153
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    Mine have been held up in customs...Fedex contacted me and asked me to fill out a form, which I did, but it was denied. I filled out another form per customs but they have not been released yet. They have been sitting there for 5 days now.
    Interesting. Was it stuck in Memphis and did the tracking status say "International shipment release - Import" with a "Pending" delivery date?

    Mine were stuck in Memphis since Monday 7/27 and to my surprise they're out for delivery this morning. For what it's worth, I'm in the Bay Area CA.

    Best of luck to you!

  154. #9154
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    Just ordered the following wheelset build from BTLOS. Will update as I get build and shipping updates.

    This will be going on my Yeti SB100, so a mix of XC/trail. I wanted something ~1300-1400g, 29-30mm inner width (looking to try out the new Maxxis WT XC tires), and for less than ~$900. Spent quite a bit of time going back and forth between EIE and BTLOS since their builds came out pretty similar in price and specs. Settled with BTLOS, but was flip flopping between the i30 in "Extralight" spec (360g) and i29 Asym in "Premium" spec (390g). Even though I don't weigh much and I take it easy on wheels, I wanted something a touch more durable so I went with the i29A.

    WM-i29A
    - Rim Size: 29er
    - Series: Premium
    - Version: AM
    - Finish: Matte
    - Weave: UD
    - Hub Type: DT SWISS 350
    - Spoke Count: 28H/28H
    - Ratchet: Upgrade 54T
    - Hub Color: Black
    - Front Axle: 15*110mm BOOST
    - Rear Axle: 12*148mm BOOST
    - Freehub: SRAM XD
    - Brake Interface: Center Lock ( Disc )
    - Spoke: Sapim CX-Ray
    - Spoke System: Straight pull
    - Nipple: Aluminium Black
    - Decal colors: None
    Just received the build listed above from BTLOS. Took exactly 6 weeks from order placement to my door. Per their site, the listed weight is 1451g but my scale shows about 1485g. Ever so slightly off of their +/- 25g tolerance, but no biggie. Either way I'll be shaving 400g from my existing wheelset!

    My new tires and rim tape come in early next week so no ride impressions yet. Visually the rims themselves look and feel fantastic.

    @thenry also ordered the same build and shared his thoughts above.

  155. #9155
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    Quote Originally Posted by markcm View Post
    Great input everyone, thanks again for this. And thanks for clarifying the dimensions, I was pretty confused on that first comment which mixed up width and diameter.

    One thing that these comments have me considering now are whether to do a full fresh build rather than re-purpose my hubs. My thought on this is that my front stans rim has a pretty good bend in it from the previous owner; it still functions fine but...

    It seems as though re-purposing my hubs will get me a rebuilt set of wheels with the carbon aspects I'm hoping for in the rim, I am happy enough with the stans hubs and the price for this route looks to be under $400. I haven't shopped for hubs yet but I am under the impression a new set of hubs that are "better than the stans" is going to cost a few hundred dollars alone.

    If I were to go for a full build, are there any popular hubs for boost axles which fall in the reasonably light, relatively durable, and cost effective range? I'm not interested in bling.
    DT 350... If you can live with centerlock or straightpull 6-bolt, those versions are lighter than the classic j-bend 6-bolt 350 hubs.

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  156. #9156
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    Quote Originally Posted by markcm View Post
    If I were to go for a full build, are there any popular hubs for boost axles which fall in the reasonably light, relatively durable, and cost effective range? I'm not interested in bling.
    DT 350 like GT87 mentioned. Stick with the ones for center lock rotors if you want to save weight. I weighed up some 180mm XT 6 bolt and center lock rotors and the rotors are lighter as well. Here's a comparison chart I made a couple years back.


  157. #9157
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    Center lock rotors are heavier though. Maybe not Shimano, but they have no light rotors anyhow and they wonít necessarily put much effort into 6-bolt anyway.



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  158. #9158
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    Yes, you can find some lighter rotors that are 6-bolt and there are many more options. But when comparing the same model rotor, CL will normally be lighter. RT81 XT center lock rotor is roughly 125 to 130 grams with lock ring. The KCNC Razor is 95 without hardware. So overall, you'll still be a bit lighter with a CL setup. I'm not sure how I would feel about the Razor rotors on a trail rig though. Those things are cool looking but not much material so they may heat up quick.

    Value for the dollar, DT350 center lock rotors are tough to beat.

  159. #9159
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    Yes, you can find some lighter rotors that are 6-bolt and there are many more options. But when comparing the same model rotor, CL will normally be lighter. RT81 XT center lock rotor is roughly 125 to 130 grams with lock ring. The KCNC Razor is 95 without hardware. So overall, you'll still be a bit lighter with a CL setup. I'm not sure how I would feel about the Razor rotors on a trail rig though. Those things are cool looking but not much material so they may heat up quick.

    Value for the dollar, DT350 center lock rotors are tough to beat.
    There aren't very many CL rotor options out there.

    But brake rotors are NOT a place to skimp IME, unless you are using the bike on very flat ground with no sustained heavy braking. It doesn't take a lot of vertical to get to that point, just steep sustained grades and when you have it, it can overheat the hell out of those weight weenie rotors like Ai2/Airrotor IME. They are great for saving weight when you can, like on my winter fat-bikes, but terrible when you need brakes on a descent. Shimano ice-tech are some of the best around for braking performance, if not the best IMO.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  160. #9160
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    Agreed on Centerlock rotors. I believe in them to such an extent, that I won't even consider 6-bolt hubs. The weight difference between CL and 6-bolt is negligible. The ease of removing an installing CL rotors is a 3 second job at most. They are generally running on a stiffer chassis/spider to begin with. I've always run Shimano, and then Ice-tech since it came out around 10 years ago, but there are other options if you don't want to run Shimano. In my experience though, I don't know why you wouldn't.

  161. #9161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    There aren't very many CL rotor options out there.

    But brake rotors are NOT a place to skimp IME, unless you are using the bike on very flat ground with no sustained heavy braking. It doesn't take a lot of vertical to get to that point, just steep sustained grades and when you have it, it can overheat the hell out of those weight weenie rotors like Ai2/Airrotor IME. They are great for saving weight when you can, like on my winter fat-bikes, but terrible when you need brakes on a descent. Shimano ice-tech are some of the best around for braking performance, if not the best IMO.
    My thoughts exactly. I have some Ai2 rotors on my 29+ winter bike but the rest run IceTech for a reason. Sram has some decent CL rotors as well. Never used them though.

  162. #9162
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    Thanks, I'm learning a lot from all the insight everyone is sharing and I appreciate it.

    I have shimano saint m820 with icetech 6-bolt rotors right now. I am thinking I will sell or trade these Saint brakes for some XTR 9120 and since I have a good set of 6-bolt icetech rotors, potentially stay with that. The DT350 sounds like a very popular option, I ended up putting my HOPE PRO-4 with DT alloy rims on my wife's scout last night so I wont be re-purposing those hubs for my new wheels.

  163. #9163
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    BTLOS WM-i24A

    Just got a pair of BTLOS WM-i24A laced to DT 350's... came in at 1475 grams...Here is the problem (s). They sent me 21mm tape and their tubeless valves. I taped them up (which I have done 100's of times) installed the valves and they inflated easily, problem is they leak around the valve stem. Being an asymmetric rim, the valve hole comes out sort of on the side of the rim and when you snug it up it pulls the valve at an angle and it doesnt seal properly? Any one else had this issue? The other issue is when I first mounted the wheels and rode down my driveway, I heard a couple spoke twangs and now the rear wheel has a little wobble. I can have my local shop true them up but I am going to raise a stink with BTLOS. I shouldnt have to deal with this with a brand new wheelset.

  164. #9164
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    Sealant should seal the leak. If not look for asym valve "washers" or whatever you want to call them. I just rebuilt my buddy's wheel and his stem had it. Goes between the rim and the stem nut.

    Did you put the wheel in a truing stand? How do you know the wobble isn't from the tires.

    If I bought a pair of cheap Chinese carbon wheels and they showed up out of true I wouldn't raise a stink with the company. I would true them up myself or have the LBS do it and call it a day.

    You want perfection then get some made by a professional wheelbuilder

  165. #9165
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    Wish you had a link to those washers.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  166. #9166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Wish you had a link to those washers.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Valve-S...symmetric-Rims

    This is what they look like. Don't know if there is a US site for them or who else makes them.

    I have always been fine with just the rubber band under the nut on asym rims.

  167. #9167
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Sealant should seal the leak. If not look for asym valve "washers" or whatever you want to call them. I just rebuilt my buddy's wheel and his stem had it. Goes between the rim and the stem nut.

    Did you put the wheel in a truing stand? How do you know the wobble isn't from the tires.

    If I bought a pair of cheap Chinese carbon wheels and they showed up out of true I wouldn't raise a stink with the company. I would true them up myself or have the LBS do it and call it a day.

    You want perfection then get some made by a professional wheelbuilder
    I did put them in a stand, I was going to try and true them myself but there was quite a bit of tension on the spokes involved. I think I'm going to get some different tape and valves, the ones they supplied dont look that great of quality.

  168. #9168
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Wish you had a link to those washers.

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    FSA makes the asym spacer. Part no. 752-0117000110

    But my asym wheels from BTLOS (i30) didnít have any issues with the valve being at an angle but they are somewhat wider. Also, mine are still true as the day I got them over a year ago and Iím a little rough on my line choices.

  169. #9169
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    Just got a pair of BTLOS WM-i24A laced to DT 350's... The other issue is when I first mounted the wheels and rode down my driveway, I heard a couple spoke twangs and now the rear wheel has a little wobble. I can have my local shop true them up but I am going to raise a stink with BTLOS. I shouldnt have to deal with this with a brand new wheelset.

    Appreciate the report. Only Chinese carbon wheels I've owned are Light Bicycle, 2 sets, and neither has problems like that. In fact, both sets are the best I've owned....period. I have some Bontrager Carbon Line Pro or whatever they call them, and they're pretty amazing, but they need truing after 500 miles compared to three times that on LB wheels and they require *nothing.* Rock gardens, drops, smashing into roots and logs.......Truly the most bulletproof wheels I've owned.

    MIPA

  170. #9170
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    Does this seem normal?

    Where the valve seats inside the is at an angle which causes it not to seal.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-20200802_191513.jpg  

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-20200802_191445.jpg  


  171. #9171
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    Where the valve seats inside the is at an angle which causes it not to seal.
    I'm honestly not seeing such a degree of misalignment that the valve shouldn't be able to seal.

    Have you pressed down on the valves seat inside of the rim while then tightening the nut? Is the valves seat round? Or is it like the DT ones that are sort of shaped like a pirates chest?

    Also, don't rely on sealant to solve leakage into your rim cavity.

  172. #9172
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    Does anyone have any experience with these particular rims?

    https://m.aliexpress.com/item/330024...13ed5e2&is_c=N

    The combo of price/weight/width is pretty much in free lunch territory, and I'll probably smash them immediately, but part of me wants to try anyway. I'd probably use the 40g tubolight inserts with them.



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  173. #9173
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    New rims on the way from BTLOS:

    https://btlos.com/image/cache/catalo...ms-900x450.jpg

    I was told that the molds are done but they haven't finalized weights or prices yet, and to expect an update mid August.

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  174. #9174
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    Does anyone have any experience with these particular rims?

    https://m.aliexpress.com/item/330024...13ed5e2&is_c=N

    The combo of price/weight/width is pretty much in free lunch territory, and I'll probably smash them immediately, but part of me wants to try anyway. I'd probably use the 40g tubolight inserts with them.



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    Iím in contact with them but havenít placed an order yet. The rim looks quite interesting. Others are 1mm wider on the outside, but easily 50g heavier per rim.

    Did you find out anything about how the rims are produced, any background?


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  175. #9175
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    I did put them in a stand, I was going to try and true them myself but there was quite a bit of tension on the spokes involved. I think I'm going to get some different tape and valves, the ones they supplied dont look that great of quality.
    IME with the carbon wheels I've built, if care is taken to keep tensions uniform, the rims will stay very straight. If you suspect the tensions are greatly uneven (sounds like it to me), then the best course is to have someone back off all the nipples and start over. When I build wheels I go through at least 3 rounds of pre-stressing the wheel as I bring up the tension. I don't get any pinging on the first ride.
    Unfortunately most sellers of discount rims can't be counted on to BUILD a wheel correctly, which requires patience.

  176. #9176
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    The other issue is when I first mounted the wheels and rode down my driveway, I heard a couple spoke twangs and now the rear wheel has a little wobble. I can have my local shop true them up but I am going to raise a stink with BTLOS. I shouldnt have to deal with this with a brand new wheelset.
    That's what new wheels do if the spokes aren't tensioned and then stress relieved thoroughly when they're built. This is what you pay for when you have a skilled builder assembling your wheels rather than someone at a high volume facility pushing out wheels in quantity.

    I've purchased OTS wheels and hand-built wheels... the hand built sets never twang and work right out of the box while the OTS wheels (if they're not crazy high end) tend to go "twang" a few times on the first ride and need an early true/tension check.

    A true/tension check at your LBS will fix things, but be aware this isn't a "I shouldn't have to deal with this with a brand new wheel set" issue,, this is a "I bought mass assembled wheels" issue. All in all, fairly common with new wheels.

  177. #9177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Iím in contact with them but havenít placed an order yet. The rim looks quite interesting. Others are 1mm wider on the outside, but easily 50g heavier per rim.

    Did you find out anything about how the rims are produced, any background?


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    No, I haven't reached out to the seller yet. I've actually never purchased anything through AliExpress before. Yeah, the beadwalls are only 2.5mm thick, but that doesn't seem uncommon for the ultralight rims. The i27 version listed on the same page has 3mm thick beadwalls for the same weight. Could be a good combo with the i27 rear and i30 front. Keep us posted if there are any new developments.

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  178. #9178
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    Will do. I actually contacted them through AliExpress first and their own site after that.
    Buying from the manufacturer directly gives me the opportunity to get rims just the way I want, both technical ways and concerning my own design.


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  179. #9179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Will do. I actually contacted them through AliExpress first and their own site after that.
    Buying from the manufacturer directly gives me the opportunity to get rims just the way I want, both technical ways and concerning my own design.


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    Thanks! Could you provide a link to their website? I'm not finding it.

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  180. #9180
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    Has anyone tried the fly-weight rims like the ones below?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...98902057VuSwf0

  182. #9182
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgoods View Post
    Has anyone tried the fly-weight rims like the ones below?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...98902057VuSwf0
    Yes I have used rims like that. They were Carbonfan 27.5 rims.

    I also used a similar version from Carbonfan that were 29er but asymmetrical.


    Here is my initial review
    https://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires...l#post13715900

    I do not own either of the bikes any more, but the 27.5 was sold to a friend and he is riding it all the time without issue.

    The 29er set was on a cheap Chinese HT frame that I built up as a race bike. Weighed 17lbs and was a whippet. I had no issues with it either and it would catch quite a bit of air on some of our flow trails as I went for Strava times.

    I can's speak for those rims, but the Carbonfans were just fine.

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