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  1. #4301
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    Quote Originally Posted by bachman1961 View Post
    Question first then back ground in case it's relevant;

    Six months in with tubeless and losing air.... I'm told to get a 'shot' or small portion of Stan's to add through the valve after removing the core. *Please advise by what exactly it's called or the size of bottle I need. Any tips related to that process very appreciated also.

    My bike has been tubeless for about 6 months and all I know about that is the guy who set it up this way. I rode pretty regularly up to about two months ago so the bike sat for a while.
    Just this week, I'm experiencing my first loss of air and thus far, it seems the front won't hold it very long. Sunday, we biked about 2 hours and it felt soft part way through the ride. By 3/4 of that ride, I added air to get back to the car. I pumped it up at home and spun the wheel some as suggested by him (better yet ride it some) but that, I did not. Still not holding air.

    I heard all the great benefits and believed most of what I'd heard but it just didn't grab me by the shirt tails and I was happily pushing pedal, not feeling lost out.
    Eventually, a friend who'd been harping on and on about converting my bike over to tubeless got to me and I felt I'd hurt his feeling arguing otherwise. Beers and music later, it was done. This was likely 6 months ago. It all worked well, held up fine and I barely had to add air in that time. I was more impressed by the job he did than tubeless itself. I thought had read even the best of situations can still mean a bit of TLC or potential for being finicky. Maybe ?

    Anyways--- As you might guess, I didn't go to school on tubeless conversion, didn't really get to know the process, or doctor up the ingredients or kit involved etc… Most of my reasoning for being too lazy about going that route prior was to keep biking simple and fun. I'm not really a 'wrench' and stick to the basics and minimums of caring for the bike and keeping it rolling healthy.

    I know John will fix me up if needed but I want to follow his advice and start to learn as I go on this tubeless adventure. The benefits make sense and as long as it doesn't outweigh itself by being more problematic than it's worth (in my world), I'll stick with it and learn more in time.
    I'll admit I appreciate those handy with bike repairs, big tear downs or bike builds, buying special groceries to whip up homemade chain lube etc.... it's just a little bit Deep Woods for me and as per time available at present.

    Thanks in advance for anything representing simple advice, steps and the right stuff to purchase.

    ~b
    A lack of sealant shouldn't cause air to escape that fast. You might want to pump up the tire and check to see where air is leaking. A spray bottle filled with water and a few drops of dish detergent works pretty well.

    You do need to occasionally add more sealant, especially when it gets warm out. You can squirt a 2 oz bottle of Stan's through your valve, no problem. Then you can keep refilling it from a bigger bottle or homebrew whenever the need arises.

  2. #4302
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    I check sealant levels once a month, by pulling the bead and looking in there. You should have about a 6" long puddle in the tire. It's easy to top off the puddle and put the bead back, a floor pump works fine. If you do this you won't have problems on the trail. I live in a desert environment so the sealant dries out faster than some other places.
    I ride with the best dogs.




  3. #4303
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    Thank you all for the information, it's all new to me and I'm seeing this seems pretty straight forward. I'll update with result's soon.

    - bach
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again.


  4. #4304
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    Update on my front tire loss of air-

    I pumped it up yesterday to try the leak test in water and right away, the tire was spewing air on to my wrist. I spotted a sidewall tear that is vertical rather that lateral along the sidewall as I might have expected. It's perfectly straight and a slight tear maybe a half inch or so.

    I'll use a partly used Nobby Nic I have lying around and get some schooling of the tubeless process this time via the friend that set it up the first time. Meantime, I've got my other bikes that are ready to roll so I'm not hostage to this fix immediately.
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again.


  5. #4305
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    I tried the BAMFS 2.0. Put some in a tire in September I believe. Only got a handful of rides on it before storing the bike for the winter.
    Changed the tire a few weeks ago, and there was still liquid in the tire. It was very similar to Stan's, but had a mildly oily consistency. It was a bit boogered in areas, but held up better than expected.
    Very nice!

    I used this formula:

    2.3 parts distilled water
    2 parts propylene glycol
    1 part latex mold builder
    Cornmeal - I used about a tablespoon for about 8oz of sealant, I think. Probably a bit heavy, but worked fine.

    I also used a tablespoon of ammonia.

    The oily consistency seemed to be from the RV antifreeze. Perhaps straight PG wouldn't be oily? Wasn't an issue really.

    I just used the rest of my latex and used the formula above but used about 2/3 the cornmeal, and about a tablespoon of ammonia per 10oz sealant.
    This was a big batch: about 85oz.

    Nice work, folks!

    Bob

  6. #4306
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    A quick question I haven't seen a mentioned. For those that use pepper, or cornmeal, or xantham gum have any of you;

    a) used a syringe to add fluid through a presta valve stem instead of breaking the bead and adding sealant directly?

    and

    b) have you had issues with the chunks clogging up your syringe?

  7. #4307
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    90% of time I just use a 60 ml syringe with my home mix through the presta valve with the core removed.

    The mix I use is about the same as pedalinbob has outlined above. I am also very heavy on the cornmeal like he is and I have never had an issue using the large syringe with my mix. I did have pepper clump up into boogers in the past so ever since it has been cornmeal.

  8. #4308
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    I've had some cloggage using a syringe - you can avoid it by technique.

    I pull the plunger out and fill the body, then replace the plunger slow/careful. Then I invert the syringe and let the chunkulate start to head for the bottom again - then inject while everything is in transit.

    If you let all the chunks congregate in the outlet of the syringe, then try to inject - that's when you will probably clog the valve stem.

    I was injecting a mix with slime and added rubber chunk - very likely to clog.

    On that note, I'm giving up on the rubber chunk. I made one batch with them, had serious booger issues. Made a second batch, but soaked the rubber chunks in ammonia water overnight trying to "passivate" them - but only helped a wee bit. Guess I'll be on the cornmeal bandwagon now.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  9. #4309
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    If you let all the chunks congregate in the outlet of the syringe, then try to inject - that's when you will probably clog the valve stem.
    THEORETICALLY, if you use xantham gum it keeps the chunks in suspension so they don't settle in the syringe...

  10. #4310
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJDude View Post
    A quick question I haven't seen a mentioned. For those that use pepper, or cornmeal, or xantham gum have any of you;

    a) used a syringe to add fluid through a presta valve stem instead of breaking the bead and adding sealant directly?

    and

    b) have you had issues with the chunks clogging up your syringe?
    Use 60 ml syringe all the time. I do shake the sealant bottle well before pouring into the syringe. After some use ~5 time I discard the syringe and use a new one.

  11. #4311
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    I used to not want to break the bead and got plugged up stems and syringes all the time. Then I tried it and it's not big deal. It's a little tougher with CushCore in now but better than plugged up stems that won't let air in or out or both.

    I got a few of these condiment squeeze bottles. You can chop off as little or as much of the tip to allow your sealant and chunkulators to flow through easily. With this tip I just need to get a tire level in and pop off the smallest portion of the tire.

    They come in different sizes as well. I've found the 8oz is what I use with my Home Brew. My brew is thicker than most everyone else so on a brand new tire I need 8oz minimum to seal and have some left over for punctures. When I refill I put in 4oz. It's more than everyone else but my Sentinel with Cush Core is approaching 36# so sealant weight is the least of my worries. Well... my sealant may be 2# of that 36#

  12. #4312
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    I agree with big0Mike about using condiment squeeze bottles. They are very cheap and they work as good or better than a syringe. They are also easier to clean.

  13. #4313
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    I just break the bead and pour it in right out of the jug.

    You want to maintain about a 6" long puddle.
    I ride with the best dogs.




  14. #4314
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    Regarding mold latex - early in this home brew thread, read remarks about condiment bottles. I had some 2 oz Wheels Manufacturing bearing bottles. With a few inches of 5/16 tubing it's easy to fill a presta valve with core out, or bottle nozzle straight into a schrader.

    Here is another use - mold latex can be used to help seat a tire. It dries quickly and its stickiness attracts it to the bead and locks in the rush of air. A paintbrush made a mess - but the 2 oz bottle nozzle is perfect for applying a line around the bead. The tire linked right up. This is all non UST/TLR, but on a 21 mm ID rim and tire with reasonable thread count and sidewall.

  15. #4315
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    Just a general touching base post - still using my BAMFS which is the Stan's clone with great success (Borat voice). High-performing and lasts about as long as Stan's ever did, shorter life in the warmer mos., longer in the cooler. Only small boogers from time to time. Love this stuff.

    1 part liquid latex "Mold Builder" brand - Amazon
    2 parts distilled water
    2 parts propylene glycol -Amazon or Tractor Supply
    0.3 parts ammonia - Ace Hardware "Professional/Janitorial Strength"
    1 tbs (or more depending on application) cooked cornmeal - Kroger

    Used to also throw a pinch of xanthan gum powder in there but I don't think it does anything.

    No need to change what works for me.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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  16. #4316
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Just a general touching base post - still using my BAMFS which is the Stan's clone with great success (Borat voice). High-performing and lasts about as long as Stan's ever did, shorter life in the warmer mos., longer in the cooler. Only small boogers from time to time. Love this stuff.

    1 part liquid latex "Mold Builder" brand - Amazon
    2 parts distilled water
    2 parts propylene glycol -Amazon or Tractor Supply
    0.3 parts ammonia - Ace Hardware "Professional/Janitorial Strength"
    1 tbs (or more depending on application) cooked cornmeal - Kroger

    Used to also throw a pinch of xanthan gum powder in there but I don't think it does anything.

    No need to change what works for me.
    I might try this next. Do you actually cook the cornmeal? How essential is the distilled water?

  17. #4317
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ckeyeus View Post
    I might try this next. Do you actually cook the cornmeal? How essential is the distilled water?
    Here's what I use. Tap water is prob fine but a gal of distilled water is like a dollar so why not use it...less impurities.

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  18. #4318
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ...
    1 part liquid latex "Mold Builder" brand - Amazon
    2 parts distilled water
    2 parts propylene glycol -Amazon or Tractor Supply
    0.3 parts ammonia - Ace Hardware "Professional/Janitorial Strength"
    1 tbs (or more depending on application) cooked cornmeal - Kroger..
    All quantities are proportional except the last, which is absolute. How much total liquid do you wind up with to put that 1 tbs into? 1qt, 1 gal, 55 gal?
    Do the math.

  19. #4319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    All quantities are proportional except the last, which is absolute. How much total liquid do you wind up with to put that 1 tbs into? 1qt, 1 gal, 55 gal?
    Sorry should have mentioned it. 1 part is a Stan's red scooper.

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  20. #4320
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    Got it. Thanks.
    Do the math.

  21. #4321
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Here's what I use.
    Same stuff I use. But I'm confused as well on "cooked?" It's something you put on meat to cook it with a texture. Do you actually do anything with the corn meal before adding it to the BAMFS?

  22. #4322
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    ppl is there anything can be used instead of ammonia?
    using it with amonia but just want to get rid of it.

  23. #4323
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    I've never added any extra ammonia at all and haven't had any issues. There is already ammonia in the mold builder latex.

  24. #4324
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    ppl is there anything can be used instead of ammonia?
    using it with amonia but just want to get rid of it.
    It's all about pH. You could replace the ammonia, but only with something of a similar pH.

    Good luck with that:

    pH of Common Bases
    Many common cleaners are basic. Usually, these chemicals have very high pH. Blood is close to neutral, but is slightly basic.

    7.0 to 10 - Shampoo
    7.4 - Human Blood
    7.4 - Human Tears
    7.8 - Egg
    around 8 - Seawater
    8.3 - Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
    around 9 - Toothpaste
    10.5 - Milk of Magnesia
    11.0 - Ammonia
    11.5 to 14 - Hair Straightening Chemicals
    12.4 - Lime (Calcium Hydroxide)
    13.0 - Lye
    14.0 - Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  25. #4325
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    The reason why i seek for alternative to ammonit is that it ruins tires(
    mabe hydroxide calcium will work
    a lot of ph up for plants are on it

  26. #4326
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    The reason why i seek for alternative to ammonit is that it ruins tires(mabe hydroxide calcium will work)
    Odd that this page has been rolling for 11 years and there hasn't been a barrage of people asking, "why are my tires falling apart quicker with [sealant of choice] in them?"

    I likely put the LEAST amount of miles on my tires of anyone in this thread and that I know and I've never noticed the ammonia in my Home Brew causing the tire to degrade faster.

    I think you are worrying about a non-issue.

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