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  1. #1
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    Anyone using boost adapters?

    Hey Guys, I have a 2015 Pivot M429C non boost. I would like to get a new fork and was looking at the Fox Stepcast 34 120mm. They are all boost. In order to use one I would have to get a boost adapter kit or a new front wheel that is boost. I'm running Easton Heist wheels. I saw a Heist boost version on Amazon for $200. Has anyone done this and what kind of problems (if any) have you had? I like my bike and I hate how they are forcing me to go thru these expensive gyrations.
    TIA
    2015 Pivot Mach 429 Carbon
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Expert

  2. #2
    Always in the wrong gear
    Reputation: ARandomBiker's Avatar
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    Iíve been using a set of cheap Ďboost adaptersí from eBay on the front wheel for over a year with no problems. Itís basically a pair of 5mm aluminum washers, and a 5mm disc spacer, with some slightly longer rotor bolts. The axle spacers are a little fiddly to keep in place while I slide the thru-axle in, but once in, I forgot they are there.

    FWIW, 15x100 Hadley hub, with a Reba front fork.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  3. #3
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    I think they(adapters) will work but worry the first time I have to take my front wheel off on the trail and forget/lose the spacers
    2015 Pivot Mach 429 Carbon
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Expert

  4. #4
    Always in the wrong gear
    Reputation: ARandomBiker's Avatar
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    My fault.
    I thought you were looking for a way to use your 100mm hub with your new Boost fork without spending $200.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  5. #5
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    Wolf tooth makes boost adapters for $25. Not every hub is available.
    MRP also has them, for about $50 Again, not every hub.
    This claims to be universal @ $20:
    https://365cycles.com/index.php/prob...QaAiTbEALw_wcB
    You could call, depending on the hub on your wheel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    My fault.
    I thought you were looking for a way to use your 100mm hub with your new Boost fork without spending $200.
    No your reply was spot on. I had heard of wheelsets having specific adapters( modified end caps) made for boost such as DT Swiss and was hoping (against hope) some made for Easton's Heists. I'm not sure what is happening with Easton since Raceface acquired them. I've made inquiries on their website with no responses.
    2015 Pivot Mach 429 Carbon
    2008 Specialized Roubaix Expert

  7. #7
    turtles make me hot
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    I have Wolftooth adapters on my Hopes. They work great.
    I like turtles

  8. #8
    Gnar? I didn't see it...
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    I have the Wolftooth adapter on my Torch - fits tight as you would expect for OEM. Iíd buy again.


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  9. #9
    Turns right to go left
    Reputation: 410sprint's Avatar
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    ^ This. I have some experience with the Wolf Tooth Boostinator system on Torch and DT hubs and it works great. With that said. I'm not sure WT offers the system for Easton wheels.

  10. #10
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    I'm using problem solvers on my Hope front without issue. Main thing is not to lose the spacers if you take off the wheel.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by maverickc_c View Post
    I think they(adapters) will work but worry the first time I have to take my front wheel off on the trail and forget/lose the spacers
    You won't forget the spacers. I'm using the cheap $10 or whatever ones from ebay. Same fork.

    The other option is the MRP adapter, which spaces the caliper over, instead of the rotor, it's an option for centerlock shimano rotors. It requires you to use 180 rotor. You would still be in the same boat as far as the hub spacers are concerned though. Anyone using boost adapters?-img_5551.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  12. #12
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    MRP works fine. W/ DT Swiss hubs. Not sure what works on Easton rims.

  13. #13
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    Clean the ends of the spacers and hub ends with alcohol, then put a light smear of clear silicone sealant between the spacer and hub end the first time you cinch it all up. After the silicone dries they wonít fall off, but with some persuasion you can pop them off later if needed.

  14. #14
    damned rocks...
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    ^good tip.
    I used the 5mm spacers for a time. Then I got a Boost hub really cheap, and re-laced my wheel. I didn't had any problem with the spacers, just some extra work installing the wheel, and no, you won't forget the spacers... that is, unless you have the attention span of a gold fish .
    But you can always follow the TheUnknownRider tip.
    You can also get a single 10mm spacer and re-dish you wheel, this way you won't need a rotor spacer and it's also easy to install the wheel and its compatible with Centerlock hubs, but you won't be able to use the wheel on a normal fork, unless you re-dish the wheel again.

  15. #15
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    If you use an adapter on the rear, can/should you use a non-boost crank to keep the chain line?
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    MRP works fine. W/ DT Swiss hubs. Not sure what works on Easton rims.
    MRP works fine with everything if you use the 5mm spacers instead of their end caps. For the life of me, I can't get the end-caps off my DT hub, so I'm just using the spacers. The spacers are simple, that's what I like about them. You can buy spacers-only on Ebay for like $5.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny7 View Post
    If you use an adapter on the rear, can/should you use a non-boost crank to keep the chain line?
    Depends on how you do this. If you do spacers on each side, it's only 3mm, probably not a big deal, but you could just buy an offset chainring, which they make these days. I'm not concerned about 3mm. If you put all the spacers on one side and re-dish the wheel, then you'd have the exact same chainline and won't need a brake-rotor spacer, but re-dishing 6mm could be a PITA.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    Iíve been using a set of cheap Ďboost adaptersí from eBay on the front wheel for over a year with no problems. Itís basically a pair of 5mm aluminum washers, and a 5mm disc spacer, with some slightly longer rotor bolts. The axle spacers are a little fiddly to keep in place while I slide the thru-axle in, but once in, I forgot they are there.
    Ditto here.

    Also, I tried the silicone trick that was mentioned in the other post to hold the spacers on, but knocked the spacer off when trying to get the wheel on, so gave up on that. Rare that I remove the front wheel, so didn't pursue any further.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    MRP works fine with everything if you use the 5mm spacers instead of their end caps. For the life of me, I can't get the end-caps off my DT hub, so I'm just using the spacers. The spacers are simple, that's what I like about them. You can buy spacers-only on Ebay for like $5.
    Two 20mm open end wrenches don't work? Did for me. At least to get the first cap off. Then I removed the hollow axle and put it in a vice so that I could take the other side off. I used a piece of sanding screen to line the vice and get a good grip.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_alley View Post
    Two 20mm open end wrenches don't work? Did for me. At least to get the first cap off. Then I removed the hollow axle and put it in a vice so that I could take the other side off. I used a piece of sanding screen to line the vice and get a good grip.
    It's a 240 hub and it's jammed on. It's for the better though, I switch between two forks, one is boost, the other is non, so not having the end-caps integral is actually helpful.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  21. #21
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    Hmm. My 240s hubs have end caps threaded on to an internal hollow axle. Must be an older model. Wasn't too difficult to swap out. Best way I have found to remove pressed in caps is to remove the wheels from the bike. Leave the wheels leaning against a wall in your garage all winter. Guaranteed that in the spring on some sunny afternoon when you are in a hurry to put the bike back together and go out for a ride, the end caps will be missing.

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