White Brothers Forks

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  • 01-21-2005
    vcyclist
    White Brothers Forks
    OK guys I'm thinkin about buying a White Brothers BW 1.0 mainly cause its a good price and I have the option of making it 80mm or 100mm for future bike. Right now it will go on my KM at 80mm. So talk me out of it! I really wnat some good feedback on this. I like the idea of coil versus air mainly because of expierence with RS! I would consider the BW .8 also although its not as good of a price. I want to here from everybody that is riding either fork and geared or SS.
  • 01-22-2005
    cottonball
    Wb
    What is the price of the WB, seems to a great fork.
  • 01-22-2005
    cruzthepug
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cottonball
    What is the price of the WB, seems to a great fork.

    I've got a .8 ordered for my KM, that should be in any day now, that I've seen nothing but great reviews on. I was stuck between the Reba and the WB, but my LBS made me a deal that I could not pass up the WB, plus the Reba doesn't have enough miles on them yet to get a fair review.

    cruz
  • 01-22-2005
    nzumbi
    WB Information
    I am planning to get a WB 1.0 and drop it to 80mm. I want coil, and I don't want the 5lbs zoke, so it is my only non-rigid option.

    I was planning to run it with a King ISO hub, but I changed that plan after seeing all of the dreadful pictures of rotors rubbing against forks when you use this combination. No biggie though. It is only a front hub. I'll still have a king in the rear.

    My new concern is about a post I read that said,

    "WB needs to adopt a crown design similar to that of other companies
    so the fork can clear under a traditional diamond frame in the event
    of a crash. Who wants a dented downtube?"

    I have no idea what is wrong with the crown design, but it worries me a bit.

    poff said, "WB bw1.0 does not clear the bottom tube of my size 18 bike - I had to shave some metal from the lockout lever.'

    If it is just the lockout lever, that's not a biggie.

    Does anyone else have any experience with this issue?
  • 01-22-2005
    n8ofire
    Not a problem with my Medium Fisher...
    "poff said, "WB bw1.0 does not clear the bottom tube of my size 18 bike - I had to shave some metal from the lockout lever.'

    If it is just the lockout lever, that's not a biggie.

    Does anyone else have any experience with this issue?"


    No problem with Medium supercal.
  • 01-22-2005
    brewdog
    Large KM....baaaaarely hits the damper/lock out control on the right side. No biggie. The left side has a cheap little plastic cap(the only thing wrong with it) that snaps into place - will pop off if the wheel's turned to the left.

    How good is a "good" price? The .8 fork is a great...nice and smoove...or stiff. I don't think you'll regret getting either...
  • 01-22-2005
    funboarder1971
    A Marzocchi MX series air fork, is a much better fork.

    I'll help you, and trade my Marzocchi for your WB. Straight out... I don't even want any money. :rolleyes:

    I do it 'cause I'm a helluva guy! :D

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by vcyclist
    OK guys I'm thinkin about buying a White Brothers BW 1.0 mainly cause its a good price and I have the option of making it 80mm or 100mm for future bike. Right now it will go on my KM at 80mm. So talk me out of it! I really wnat some good feedback on this. I like the idea of coil versus air mainly because of expierence with RS! I would consider the BW .8 also although its not as good of a price. I want to here from everybody that is riding either fork and geared or SS.

  • 01-22-2005
    drc
    King ISO disc hub
    could be a compatability problem. Lotsa fixes around this, a pretty trivial 'down' side.
  • 01-22-2005
    vcyclist
    Thanks for the input.
    I knew about the issue with the King hubs and the disc brake but did not know about the possibilty of the crown hitting the downtube. How many cases of that? I have a LG KM and surely don't want to risk trashing my downtube. Has anyone contacted WB on this? I would be intrested in what they said. Thanks again and keep posting.
  • 01-23-2005
    nzumbi
    Who knows?
    I have yet to hear from anyone who actually had a problem with the crown hitting the DT...just the lockout lever in that one instance. Maybe it really isn't a problem at all.
  • 01-24-2005
    rossixc
    Fork crowns and down tubes
    We have been aware of possible downtube, fork crown interference regarding 29" wheels for over three years now - the same considerations are taken for 26" wheels as well... We have kept a low profile with our lockout knob in order to allow builders the most room possible. Changing the crown would also change a myriad of other critical dimensions, so it is not an option.

    We have a critical distance diagram, available to frame builders, that gives the necessary vertical and horizontal minimums for proper clearance. Frame builders can use this document to ensure their design works with our forks. There are a number of ways for frame builders to accomplish proper clearance without compromising their design beliefs.

    So you know, we recommend a lower cup skirt height with a minimum of 13mm. The minimum horizontal distance needed is 81mm (from center of head tube), with a minimum of 27mm vertical distance (bottom of headtube to top of lockout knob). I can fax this to any frame builder requiring this measurement.

    I hope this helps answer your questions.

    Jason
  • 01-24-2005
    SoloWithOthers
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rossixc
    We have been aware of possible downtube, fork crown interference regarding 29" wheels for over three years now - the same considerations are taken for 26" wheels as well... We have kept a low profile with our lockout knob in order to allow builders the most room possible. Changing the crown would also change a myriad of other critical dimensions, so it is not an option.

    We have a critical distance diagram, available to frame builders, that gives the necessary vertical and horizontal minimums for proper clearance. Frame builders can use this document to ensure their design works with our forks. There are a number of ways for frame builders to accomplish proper clearance without compromising their design beliefs.

    So you know, we recommend a lower cup skirt height with a minimum of 13mm. The minimum horizontal distance needed is 81mm (from center of head tube), with a minimum of 27mm vertical distance (bottom of headtube to top of lockout knob). I can fax this to any frame builder requiring this measurement.

    I hope this helps answer your questions.

    Jason

    So... any comment in the King ISO Disc Hub <> WB issue?
  • 01-24-2005
    Mattman
    I missed it......What's the issue?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SoloWithOthers
    So... any comment in the King ISO Disc Hub <> WB issue?

    I am in the process of having a bike built and plan to use the WB .08 fork with King ISO disc hubs. What is the issue, and is there a good fix for it?
  • 01-24-2005
    drc
    King-WB issues at this thread
  • 01-24-2005
    rossixc
    Hub rotor issue
    The only thing I will say is that we have had issues brought up concerning WB forks and various brake/rotor set-ups that have turned out to be hub axle/shell issues. I'm not naming manufacturers since it is more than one, and since they have all produced combinations that work fine.

    I will say that in almost every situation, that either our forks or the brake manufacturer was initially blamed, it ended up being an issue with the hub axle/shell spacing. It is important to note that all three different component pieces, although built to ISO specifications, still have tolerance variations that when assembled together have the possibility to have the final outcome out of tolerance - rare, but possible. I would just caution all users that before they go blaming any manufacturer, or accusing, that they first try a few options to narrow down the issues - such as different wheel sets. If you are having wheels built, attach the rotor before the wheel is assembled and clamp it in the fork to make sure.

    I do admit that our forks use a narrow stance and larger tube diameters as compared to most other fork manufacturers. Depending on the hub manufacturer it is not uncommon to have rotors 1mm or so from the outer tube - this is normal and the rotor will not touch.

    If you have a rotor that is too close, and the hub shell can be spaced over, then do so and re-dish the wheel. Check with the hub manufacturer for the best way to do this - they may have spacers or collars, and other helpful hints. Remember, rotor position is a function of hub shell position on the axle.

    Again, I hope this information helps.

    Jason