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  1. #1
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    Upgrade questions

    Hey guys. Couple of quick questions. I have a 2014 giant revel 1 29er. I'd like to try running tubeless but need new wheels. My lbs was quoting something like ~$400 all in. Is the some budget oriented wheels and tires out there I should look at? Also I've never been a big fan of the gearing on this bike. I'd like to swap it to something like a 1x11 or something but I'm not sure if it's possible with this bike. If it's possible what components should I look at?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crannon View Post
    ... what components should I look at?
    You should look at the components and wheels attached to the new bike you buy.
    Do the math.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, a new bike would be a huge upgrade. However, just going tubeless is a big difference and $400 is a pretty cheap price. If you start to do more than that I think Lone Rager is right and you should look for something new. You'll get everything you want for just a bit more than upgrading.

    If you decide to look at 1x anyway, Shimano 11sp has some fairly inexpensive options.

  4. #4
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    Yep, look for something newer with everything you want on it. You can find good deals on used bikes that are 1x11 and tubeless. It's fairly commonplace these days. What kind of riding do you do the most? Mostly trail or XC?
    Trek …monda | Transition Scout | Transition PBJ | Framed Attack Pro

  5. #5
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    Are you saying you need new wheels to run tubeless or you need new wheels no matter what?

  6. #6
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    Appreciate the input guys. I'm still a mountain bike noob so I wasn't sure if upgrading this rig was cost effective. I'll just make do for now and save for a better one.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crannon View Post
    Hey guys. Couple of quick questions. I have a 2014 giant revel 1 29er. I'd like to try running tubeless but need new wheels. My lbs was quoting something like ~$400 all in. Is the some budget oriented wheels and tires out there I should look at? Also I've never been a big fan of the gearing on this bike. I'd like to swap it to something like a 1x11 or something but I'm not sure if it's possible with this bike. If it's possible what components should I look at?
    I don't know the cheapest you can get tubeless-ready wheels, but $400 seems reasonable, especially if it includes tubeless ready tires, the sealant, and everything else. If you need new wheels, anyway, that's probably not a bad idea. If you just "want" new wheels, though, that's a stretch. But then you're looking at a full drivetrain swap on top of that? I'm not sure all that is worth it for that bike, honestly.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battery View Post
    Yep, look for something newer with everything you want on it. You can find good deals on used bikes that are 1x11 and tubeless. It's fairly commonplace these days. What kind of riding do you do the most? Mostly trail or XC?
    At this point I'm only riding trail!

    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Are you saying you need new wheels to run tubeless or you need new wheels no matter what?
    I would need both. Lbs said my wheels and tires would be difficult to convert. No problem though I'll just save for a better bike.

  9. #9
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    For $400, you can get a nice fork that I think will make more of an improvement than wheels/tubeless. I know the deals aren't on every corner but I got a 2015 fox factory 36 with an ACS3 could conversion used for just over $400. If you watch the classifieds, Craigslist etc closely, they'll turn up.

    JMHO

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    For $400, you can get a nice fork that I think will make more of an improvement than wheels/tubeless. I know the deals aren't on every corner but I got a 2015 fox factory 36 with an ACS3 could conversion used for just over $400. If you watch the classifieds, Craigslist etc closely, they'll turn up.

    JMHO

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the advice. I actually upgraded the fork from stock to this raidon and it did make a huge difference. Probably wont put more money into this bike. I'm looking at better used bikes now haha.

  11. #11
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    Quick tip - If those are Giant SXC2 wheels, Giant says they are not Tubeless compatible. However, I was able to run a set of SXC2 wheels tubeless just buy putting stan's tape on them and using Maxxis TR tires. It worked with other tires too, but what works and what doesn't is hit and miss, but the Maxxis TR stuff ALWAYS worked.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Quick tip - If those are Giant SXC2 wheels, Giant says they are not Tubeless compatible. However, I was able to run a set of SXC2 wheels tubeless just buy putting stan's tape on them and using Maxxis TR tires. It worked with other tires too, but what works and what doesn't is hit and miss, but the Maxxis TR stuff ALWAYS worked.
    This is what I was getting at. The wheels on my 2017 Fathom weren't tubeless compatible but worked perfectly fine tubeless. I just cleaned the rim really well with isopropyl alcohol, ran a strip of Gorilla tape around it then mounted up some Maxxis tubeless ready tires. Couldn't have worked any better.

  13. #13
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    Having been down this road of upgrading something that TBH is not really worth upgrading, just find something used on Pinkbike that has what you want or a new old stock bike for ~40% off.

    You should expect to buy a bike that had at least $1,000 original retail price if you want it to have standards that will have available parts for years to come (either 15x100/12x142 or boost, tapered headtube, etc)

    If you want to upgrade your wheels, get something you can transfer to another bike. IMO you won't find a better place to build a quality budget wheelset than this site 29er MTB Custom. Duroc30 rims on XT hubs with DT comp spokes = $237 shipped with their 25% off coupon.

  14. #14
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    If you just want to run tubeless, why not get a Stan's kit?
    This site allows you to choose, based on rim width. No way would I spend $400 to do it!
    https://www.notubes.com/rim-strip-an...s-system-guide

  15. #15
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    Vittoria TNT typically have a really tight bead, similar if not tighter than Maxxis, I bet those would go tubeless well on non-tubeless rims too.
    skidding is the signature of the novice; learn how to use your brakes.

  16. #16
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    Sorry to revive this thread but someone locally is selling a felt 9 comp hardtail for $500. It has sram x5, hayes disk brakes, Manitou drake fork... I'm trying to get some more info on it but seems like it might be a 2015 model. Not super familiar with these bikes but is it something I should consider buying? I've been looking for a used full sus but if this bike is quite an upgrade from my giant I might get it to tide me over until I can afford something really nice...

    Edit: Kinda a crappy pic
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  17. #17
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    A few unsolicited bits of advice about that bike:
    1. Why is your saddle so far back on the rails? Youíre going to end up bending the rails like that. If the saddle is that far back on purpose, either your frame is too small, the saddle is too low, or you have some physical limitation that can be helped by a physical therapist.
    2. Pedals- those are some tiny, flimsy looking pedals. The most cost-effective upgrade you can make is some larger platform pedals.
    3. Brake levers slammed against the grips- unless you have very small hands, youíd get better leverage from the brakes if you space the levers in a little. The exact amount is a personal choice, but ĹĒ to 1 inch is a good start. You want your index finger to wrap around the end of the lever blade, although some people brake with their middle finger. Up to you, but worth experimenting with the lever position.



    What specifically donít you like about the gearing? Not enough range? hate fiddling with the front derailleur? crappy performance?

    First, make sure the shifting and drivetrain just plain work. I find that MANY bikes end up with crappy shifting because the cable is corroded inside the housing. A drop or two of TriFlow in the cable will help a lot. Otherwise, make sure nothing is worn, the hanger is straight (you need a tool to do that accurately), and the cable tension and limit screws are set correctly,

    You have a 24/34/42 combo up front and a 11-32 in the back. That should give you a HUGE range if you use it efficiently. I would think that anymore broader than that would only be useful in some Spiderman wall-climbing. Switching to a 1x system might actually limit that range, so so switch for that purpose. If you want to go that route, you should be able to replace the front chainring (probably with some shorter bolts), along with the rear derailer, cassette, chain, and shifter. Thatís probably a few hundred bucks worth of parts and a considerable amount of labor if you canít do it yourself.

    As for tubeless, you might have some luck with a DIY conversion with a few layers of Gorilla tape, and/or a split tube. Thereís no telling how effective that will be. Your other option is to replace the wheels and I donít have anything specific to suggest there. Youíll probably also need new tires and a bottle of sealant, if not tubeless valves.

    In the end, you have a very entry-level bike that is five years old. I could go into more detail, but continuing to upgrade this bike will soon cost as much, or more, as buying a modern bike that has tubeless-ready wheels, better brakes, a better fork, better geometry, better pedals, and a modern 1X drivetrain. Do the math.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    A few unsolicited bits of advice about that bike:
    1. Why is your saddle so far back on the rails? Youíre going to end up bending the rails like that. If the saddle is that far back on purpose, either your frame is too small, the saddle is too low, or you have some physical limitation that can be helped by a physical therapist.
    2. Pedals- those are some tiny, flimsy looking pedals. The most cost-effective upgrade you can make is some larger platform pedals.
    3. Brake levers slammed against the grips- unless you have very small hands, youíd get better leverage from the brakes if you space the levers in a little. The exact amount is a personal choice, but ĹĒ to 1 inch is a good start. You want your index finger to wrap around the end of the lever blade, although some people brake with their middle finger. Up to you, but worth experimenting with the lever position.



    What specifically donít you like about the gearing? Not enough range? hate fiddling with the front derailleur? crappy performance?

    First, make sure the shifting and drivetrain just plain work. I find that MANY bikes end up with crappy shifting because the cable is corroded inside the housing. A drop or two of TriFlow in the cable will help a lot. Otherwise, make sure nothing is worn, the hanger is straight (you need a tool to do that accurately), and the cable tension and limit screws are set correctly,

    You have a 24/34/42 combo up front and a 11-32 in the back. That should give you a HUGE range if you use it efficiently. I would think that anymore broader than that would only be useful in some Spiderman wall-climbing. Switching to a 1x system might actually limit that range, so so switch for that purpose. If you want to go that route, you should be able to replace the front chainring (probably with some shorter bolts), along with the rear derailer, cassette, chain, and shifter. Thatís probably a few hundred bucks worth of parts and a considerable amount of labor if you canít do it yourself.

    As for tubeless, you might have some luck with a DIY conversion with a few layers of Gorilla tape, and/or a split tube. Thereís no telling how effective that will be. Your other option is to replace the wheels and I donít have anything specific to suggest there. Youíll probably also need new tires and a bottle of sealant, if not tubeless valves.

    In the end, you have a very entry-level bike that is five years old. I could go into more detail, but continuing to upgrade this bike will soon cost as much, or more, as buying a modern bike that has tubeless-ready wheels, better brakes, a better fork, better geometry, better pedals, and a modern 1X drivetrain. Do the math.
    Thanks for the tips. The seat slides back it's super annoying I re position it often. I think the frame might be a size too small I'll get large next time. As for upgrades I already decided not to upgrade this frame. Did you see my last post? How does that bike compare?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crannon View Post
    Sorry to revive this thread but someone locally is selling a felt 9 comp hardtail for $500. It has sram x5, hayes disk brakes, Manitou drake fork... I'm trying to get some more info on it but seems like it might be a 2015 model. Not super familiar with these bikes but is it something I should consider buying? I've been looking for a used full sus but if this bike is quite an upgrade from my giant I might get it to tide me over until I can afford something really nice...

    Edit: Kinda a crappy pic
    Name:  58375147_322853188350960_8806244409340329984_n.jpg
Views: 101
Size:  97.8 KB
    I really like the way my FELT Nine Comp rides. It has been a great bike. My build is a bit different, bt it workswell for me. I have about 4500 miles on mine and have raced it some.

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