Stems are ripping out if the tubes!!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Presta or schrader valve?

  2. #2
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    Stems are ripping out if the tubes!!

    It's only happening in the rear (so far). All I do is urban cruising. I'm using some thorn resistant tubes that came in an orange box (I don't know the brand). My LBS is telling me that the thorn resistant tubes can't handle the pressure/torque of the rear wheel. It seems like such a random statement to me. I mean, they made the tubes for 29" bikes. They are saying I need to get "regular" tubes. I'm lost...

    Have you guys ever heard or experienced this?

  3. #3
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    Sorry about that,

    Presta.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like your tire is slipping on the rim and then pulling the tube with it. Thus, causing it to tear the stem out...

    Mark your tire and rim with a sharpie and see what happens.

  5. #5
    Expert Crasher
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    Try deburring the hole for the valve and applying some talcom powder to the tube before installation.
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  6. #6
    SNMBA
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    That's funny. I just had the same issue over the weekend with one of these tubes. https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Thorn-.../dp/B00165SA0A



    Look familiar? I'm gonna take it back and get my money back. Those bastards weren't cheap!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired View Post
    Sounds like your tire is slipping on the rim and then pulling the tube with it. Thus, causing it to tear the stem out...

    Mark your tire and rim with a sharpie and see what happens.
    Great idea. Will do.


    Quote Originally Posted by AntagonistHero View Post
    That's funny. I just had the same issue over the weekend with one of these tubes. https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Thorn-.../dp/B00165SA0A



    Look familiar? I'm gonna take it back and get my money back. Those bastards weren't cheap!
    That's the tubes (except it's a 29, but the same other wise). That's the only brand my LBS sells. Chit!!
    They last about 5 miles of urban riding. I can't even imagine if I was actually out and using the bike as it was meant to be used. I figure 10 minutes at best.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenLightGo View Post
    Try deburring the hole for the valve and applying some talcom powder to the tube before installation.
    I'll check the rim for burrs.

  9. #9
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    The talc on the tires is the best bet. I would bet that your tires fit loosely on the rims and the action of braking, especially on the pavement is what is causing the slippage. The most important thing is to no get talc on the rim/bead seat interface as this will cause the tire to slip more. You can also go over the tire bead with something rough, like scotchbrite to expose more of the rubber to grip the rim and you can do the same to the bead hook on the rim to give it more traction too.

    Finally you might want to build up the rim/bead seat a bit with a few wraps of electrical or duct tape below the rim strip. You could even remove the rim strip and just use the tape layers to seal your rim. Keep adding until the tire "pops" on the bead seat. This should prevent the tire from rotating as well.
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  10. #10
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    thorn resistant?

    Quote Originally Posted by S/X Runner View Post
    ... I'm using some thorn resistant tubes that came in an orange box (I don't know the brand)...

    Have you guys ever heard or experienced this?
    If you're talking about what I think you are, yes, I have.

    The year was 1988. I had just returned to college and was riding my new 1988 Jamis Dakota for transportation everywhere. My college town was Greeley, CO. There were goatheads there like nowhere else I've lived.

    An LBS recommended thorn resistant tubes. The strategy was to use rubber so thick that even a half inch long thorn could not get through. Problem was, there was no way to add enough pressure to the tube using the the pneumatic pump technology available at the time to actually stretch the tube enough to make contact with the lining of the 2.0 Ritchey Force tires I was rockin' back then. Tube and tire slipped at even the slightest application of braking pressure. Ripped several stems clean out, then took a nail that went through the whole thing.

    Conclusion? Stupid design, flawed way to deal with puncture threat. I'm surprised that anyone actually still makes those thick-ass tubes. I suspect that the butyl industry is engaged in a conspiracy to move more product by spreading false information that the solution is worth a damn.

    Decided to try using sealant. Much more puncture resistant, ultimately lighter, no problem needing to pressure up to 175 PSI just to get the tube to be tightly inflated inside the tire.
    Last edited by TomP; 07-06-2011 at 11:33 AM.
    Tom Purvis - Salida, CO - http://teamvelveeta.tom-purvis.com

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  11. #11
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    I've had this happen a few times, in the front. Rampage tire, CR-18 rim, standard 29er tube, long, steep downhill. Two different times on the same hill. I think what is happening, as others have said, is the tire is slipping around the rim, but the tube is not, which puts pressure on the valve and rips it out. I put some patch glue on one side of the rim/bead interface and that seemed to fix it. Remember which side you put it on!

  12. #12
    mad aussie
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    As others have observed its the tire/tube slipping around the rim placing stress at the valve stem and tearing the tube. Causes could include:
    1. underinflated tube
    2. loose fitting tire
    3. thick thorn resistant tube unable to properly pressurize tire

    I would suggest talcing the tube and pumping the tires up to the max reccomended pressure.

  13. #13
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    i've seen before where a loose rim strip was decapitating the valve...

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