Rip 9 owners: a couple of questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Rip 9 owners: a couple of questions

    hello there.

    Iīve just built this 2010 rip frame and it rides great but Iīve found a couple of issues. Can you help me?

    The first one is that in the smaller ring, the chain "hangs" from the front derrailleur swingarm in some gears. It scratches the lower part when you move the cranks.

    It is very noticeable when Iīm not riding, and with my weight on the bike it only happens in some gears, but I think in a frame as expensive as this one, this shouldnīt happen, as it deteriorates the chain and the derrailleur.

    The crankset is a standard 9 speed shimano XT 22-32-44, the derrailleur is a Shimano XT M771, also 9 speed and the chain is a Dura Ace-XTR one.
    On the back I have a shimano 11-34 nine speed cog.

    I think the derrailleur is correctely placed as there is only 1-2mm gap between it and the teeth of the bigger chainring, as shimano suggests.

    Do I need a smaller "big" chainring, a bigger "small" chainring or a different derrailleur?

    Rip 9 owners: a couple of questions-img_3707.jpg


    The second one is that after the third ride I started hearing a small noise coming from the rear swingarm when turning or pedalling hard. All bolts seem to be well tightened, derrailleur hange included.

    Is this from normal flex, am I just too picky?

    Many thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man

    Iīve just built this 2010 rip frame and it rides great but Iīve found a couple of issues. Can you help me?

    The first one is that in the smaller ring, the chain "hangs" from the front derrailleur swingarm in some gears. It scratches the lower part when you move the cranks.

    It is very noticeable when Iīm not riding, and with my weight on the bike it only happens in some gears, but I think in a frame as expensive as this one, this shouldnīt happen, as it deteriorates the chain and the derrailleur.
    Bike looks good. Congrats on the purchase and build. The key here is that in the stand or when not riding doesn't matter. Once you sit on the bike and the sag occurs, the chain should be higher and not rub.

    The other issue is that you are running a 44T outer ring which puts the derailleur up pretty high. Just looking at your picture, I would personally bring that FD down a bit as you don't need as much space as what appears in the photo. Many of us that ride RIPs don't use such a large outer ring. Before it occurs, you may want to familiarize yourself with the dreaded chain 'stuck' issues found in this thread. That clearance between your chainstay yoke area and the 44T ring is iddy-biddy and the chain likes to jump up in there when on the middle and granny ring and get 'stuck'. Plenty of posts and problem solving on the linked thread to tackle the issue. At the very least, I would utilize a zip tie barrier around the yoke area to help prevent what you can.


    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man

    I think the derrailleur is correctely placed as there is only 1-2mm gap between it and the teeth of the bigger chainring, as shimano suggests.

    Do I need a smaller "big" chainring, a bigger "small" chainring or a different derrailleur?
    I would snug that FD down a little closer to the teeth. As opposed to the 1-2mm clearance you say, it looks to me - at least from the angle in the photo - to be more like 1/4" - 1/2" space. And I would place my vote for a smaller big chain ring. I run Bruzed's custom made 30/40 middle and outer combo that he developed for the RIP and XT cranks (and use a Rotor Q Ring 23T granny).


    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    The second one is that after the third ride I started hearing a small noise coming from the rear swingarm when turning or pedalling hard. All bolts seem to be well tightened, derrailleur hange included.

    Is this from normal flex, am I just too picky?
    Could be a lot of things. Grease, oil everything you can and see if you can track it down. There's a thread about this going right now on the Niner forum about a creaking RIP. Could be seatpost, saddle, pedals, pivot bolts, etc.... .

    BB

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Bike looks good. Congrats on the purchase and build. The key here is that in the stand or when not riding doesn't matter. Once you sit on the bike and the sag occurs, the chain should be higher and not rub.

    The other issue is that you are running a 44T outer ring which puts the derailleur up pretty high. Just looking at your picture, I would personally bring that FD down a bit as you don't need as much space as what appears in the photo. Many of us that ride RIPs don't use such a large outer ring. Before it occurs, you may want to familiarize yourself with the dreaded chain 'stuck' issues found in this thread. That clearance between your chainstay yoke area and the 44T ring is iddy-biddy and the chain likes to jump up in there when on the middle and granny ring and get 'stuck'. Plenty of posts and problem solving on the linked thread to tackle the issue. At the very least, I would utilize a zip tie barrier around the yoke area to help prevent what you can.




    I would snug that FD down a little closer to the teeth. As opposed to the 1-2mm clearance you say, it looks to me - at least from the angle in the photo - to be more like 1/4" - 1/2" space. And I would place my vote for a smaller big chain ring. I run Bruzed's custom made 30/40 middle and outer combo that he developed for the RIP and XT cranks (and use a Rotor Q Ring 23T granny).




    Could be a lot of things. Grease, oil everything you can and see if you can track it down. There's a thread about this going right now on the Niner forum about a creaking RIP. Could be seatpost, saddle, pedals, pivot bolts, etc.... .

    BB
    Many thanks for the quick reply.
    Iīm reading the thread you posted.
    About the gap, it is just the angle of the photo, when the chain is in the bigger ring, the gap is only 2mm or less.

    Iīll change the bigger ring then and see what happens, pity this small things on an otherwise great bike.

  4. #4
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    OK, couple things....I'm not a Niner fan at all, but it's a decent bike, but with slome compromises and you've encountered a few of them.As BB said, be careful running that 44t ring, that frame has chainsuck nissues running rings bigger than 40t, follow his link and advice - 40t is planty big for a true off road bike.

    Looking at your pic it seems you're expecting to be able to run the bike in 1-9 or small/small as some call it and that, most definitely is severe cross chaining and not a fault with the bike, but of the tripple ring systems. Despite what you might think, a 3x9 bike does not have 27 useable gears, it only really has about 19 useable gears that don't create cross chaining which wears down cogs, rings and chains very fast and can snap derailleurs.
    If you are in the granny/small chainring upfront, you should not expect to be able to use a cog/gear smaller than the 5th largest cog/gear out back and when in the big ring you should not use a cog lower than the 3rd biggest out back when running a tripple ring setup.

    Niner's CVA suspension which hangs below the BB only helps to exaserbate this situation, most especially when in the granny/small ring. So in essence, try using good gear combos and you won't suffer this problem, on any bike.

  5. #5
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    +1 on everything said above. smaller big chainring and get the derailleur down.

    Just the other day i had a low pitched creak coming from the rear area, under same conditions as yours, which i thought was my BB. Turned out to be just the rear QR needing to be tightened a little. check the same as you would for wheel knocking, but grab the wheel by the most rearward point (thats how i figured it out).
    "That's a niiiiiiiice biiike boy! That a Huffy!?"

  6. #6
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    I can just find 42t chainrings. Would that be enough?

    I have just spend what for me is a good amount of money in the build and had to look for over a month to find a black xx fork, so I donīt want to wait/pay custom chainrings...

    Any of you found 42T enough or do I have to go for the 40T ones?

    Thanks again

  7. #7
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    Smaller big ring should do it!

  8. #8
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    You don't measure the gap with the chain on the chainring. Measure it bewteen the teeth of the chainring and the derailleur cage. The gap there (as Bruce noted) looks way larger than 2mm. Looks more like 5mm or 6mm.

  9. #9
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    40 tooth

    I am sorry to ask this question as I know it has been asked before, but where can I get a 40 t chainring? thanks

  10. #10
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    How often do you actually use your big ring? I took mine off and put on a bash guard on and don't miss it at all. Solved a bunch of derailleure issues too.

    I had a similar odd squeak/creak that I couldn't find for a long time. It ended up being from the rear wheel being loose on the skewer. Grab the top of your rear wheel, and move it side to side. You'll feel if there's any play there. If there is, tighten up your skewer. It's surprising how many odd noises that can cause.

  11. #11
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    As Bruce said, the distance between the teeth and derailleur cage should be about a penny width, BUT, be careful lowering the derailleur too much so that when the rear tri comes up it doesn't bash into it and cause issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I would snug that FD down a little closer to the teeth. As opposed to the 1-2mm clearance you say, it looks to me - at least from the angle in the photo - to be more like 1/4" - 1/2" space. And I would place my vote for a smaller big chain ring. I run Bruzed's custom made 30/40 middle and outer combo that he developed for the RIP and XT cranks (and use a Rotor Q Ring 23T granny).

    BB
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  12. #12
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Just a heads-up....

    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    I can just find 42t chainrings. Would that be enough?

    I have just spend what for me is a good amount of money in the build and had to look for over a month to find a black xx fork, so I donīt want to wait/pay custom chainrings...

    Any of you found 42T enough or do I have to go for the 40T ones?

    Thanks again
    - Not everyone is having this "issue" with 42t chainrings.
    1st - Lace your chain Big-ring to Big-cog and pull it tight so the rear der. lower pulley wheel points right at the Big-ring then back off just a touch of tension so you won't rip the der. off in a cross-chain instance. You now have the "perfect chain length".
    2nd - Adjust that Front der. to the "Nth degree" starting with your 22-34 or 36 combo. Keep the clearance TIGHT.
    3rd - When riding the flat'ish trails and ANY downhill, put that chain on the Big-ring and use some muscle By all-means, cross-chain that badboy up to the 7th or 8th cog. That is about equal to the middle-ring/middle-cog combo which gives riders too much slack on the chain so under compression your chain "could" lodge in-between the yolk and chainrings (Sure, I do agree clearance could be better).

    Learn to ride yer bikes in proper gear combo's for the terrain people!
    As (this pains me ) LyNx put it - Just because your bike has "X-gears" that doesn't mean you can use all of them with out issue.

    - Carry on...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cottonball
    I am sorry to ask this question as I know it has been asked before, but where can I get a 40 t chainring? thanks
    Lots of non-ramped DH 40T rings available, but in specific to the 104mm BCD of the XT, I was referencing the ramped 40T that Russ Anderson made for the XT/RIP combo which you can find here. I don't think there are any other ramped 40T outer rings in the 104mm BCD available.

    As noted on his product page, his ramped 40T must be used with his 30T as it bolts directly into it with his supplied special bolts.

    BB

  14. #14
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    well, I have checked everything today and went for a long ride.
    Gap between the derrailleur and big ring was 2mm although I know in the photograph looks much more, must be the angle.
    I move it down slightly until thereīs only a minimal gap and it is still the same.
    I have also checked I have the proper sag, 25%, more or less 12mm.

    There is no problem crossing the chain completely from side to side with the medium or big rings, (I donīt usually do that, but I have checked it also)

    The problem is only with the small ring: there are only two fully usable cogs with it.

    I can pedal perfectly with the 34t and 30t cogs (the first two), but in the following one the chain slightly touches the derrailleur when pedalling sit, and scratches it and makes a bad noise when pedalling in standing position.
    ((BTW, here we count the cogs like that: the first one is the biggest))
    In the fourth (26 I think) even sit makes an awful scratching noise. I think you should be able to pedal with the smaller chainring perfectly until the medium cog, this is the fifth.

    The transmission (cranks, rings and rear cog) is about one year old, but it was in my second bike so it has maybe 500 or 600km, no more. The derrailleur spring is still firm and the chain (which by the way is new) is tense enough, so I donīt know what happens.

    Do I have the only niner frame in which you canīt ride a normal transmission combo?

    Is this a design fail?

    Niner says they design their bikes for the most common transmissions, and I think this is the second most common one, the first one might be a 11-32 on the back, which would produce the same effect...

    Does any of you have a similar issue? Is my frame misaligned?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man

    Do I have the only niner frame in which you canīt ride a normal transmission combo?

    Is this a design fail?

    Niner says they design their bikes for the most common transmissions, and I think this is the second most common one, the first one might be a 11-32 on the back, which would produce the same effect...

    Does any of you have a similar issue? Is my frame misaligned?
    direct from niners page
    "Compatible with 2x systems from SRAM and SHIMANO, however certain gear sizes will not fit.

    SRAM recommended 2x front chainring configs: 26/39 or lower
    SHIMANO recommended 2x front chainring configs: 28/40 "

    Im using a shimano SLX triple crankset with the large ring removed and replace with a bashgaurd... When i first swapped this from my old bike to the Rip, i measured the cage height above the bashgaurd and installed it at the same height on the rip. I immediately noticed i had the same problem as you, the chain riding on the bottom of the cage in the lowest chainring. I just lowered it to the point where the chain was just barely clearing the cage when unsagged and its been fine since. It appears that niner does NOT recommend a triple front setup, so running one will require the compromise of a smaller than normal large ring. Or just ditch it and go bash, the only time i ever miss it is on paved bike paths going downhill.

    Edit: i also have the same FD as you. Try calling niner, they may be able to help you source a 40T chainring among other suggestions.
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  16. #16
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    As much as I'd like to rag on Niner, I think you have setup issues. When you're setting up the FD do you have it in the middle ring? FDs generally come with a stop in them so they are in the correct position to make adjustment easy, did yours have that in there and did you remove it before you adjusted the FD? When I adjust the FD on my bikes I like to have the FD cage just clear the big ring when shifting up so as to not run into the trouble you are getting right now, but if you do it normally and correctly with the FD in the middel position and then put a penny or even a dime betwen the cage and big ring and it just fits in there then you should be able to shift down to at least the 5th cog. If you still can't get it figured out try taking it to a shop or ask a local friend who might be more knowledgeable than you.


    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    well, I have checked everything today and went for a long ride.
    Gap between the derrailleur and big ring was 2mm although I know in the photograph looks much more, must be the angle.
    I move it down slightly until thereīs only a minimal gap and it is still the same.
    I have also checked I have the proper sag, 25%, more or less 12mm.

    There is no problem crossing the chain completely from side to side with the medium or big rings, (I donīt usually do that, but I have checked it also)

    The problem is only with the small ring: there are only two fully usable cogs with it.

    Do I have the only niner frame in which you canīt ride a normal transmission combo?

    Is this a design fail?

    Niner says they design their bikes for the most common transmissions, and I think this is the second most common one, the first one might be a 11-32 on the back, which would produce the same effect...

    Does any of you have a similar issue? Is my frame misaligned?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickbm3
    direct from niners page
    "Compatible with 2x systems from SRAM and SHIMANO, however certain gear sizes will not fit.

    SRAM recommended 2x front chainring configs: 26/39 or lower
    SHIMANO recommended 2x front chainring configs: 28/40 "



    In the face!




    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    As much as I'd like to rag on Niner, I think you have setup issues. When you're setting up the FD do you have it in the middle ring? FDs generally come with a stop in them so they are in the correct position to make adjustment easy, did yours have that in there and did you remove it before you adjusted the FD? When I adjust the FD on my bikes I like to have the FD cage just clear the big ring when shifting up so as to not run into the trouble you are getting right now, but if you do it normally and correctly with the FD in the middel position and then put a penny or even a dime betwen the cage and big ring and it just fits in there then you should be able to shift down to at least the 5th cog. If you still can't get it figured out try taking it to a shop or ask a local friend who might be more knowledgeable than you.

    As I wanted new cables and housing, I took it to my LBS to have it done, so it was correctly installed.

    I might try a 42t ring then. BTW, Iīve found a stock 40t ring with ramps, but it is supposed to be a middle one. Would it work as an outer one if the derrailleur is correctly set?

  18. #18
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    Assuming they got it right, might be asking too much, heard enough horror stories about some LBSs to make me not trust any - don't trust either of the 2 we have here. Try to find a local who you know build snad maintains their own bikes and ask them. Heck I used to run a 46t ring on my RIP (all be it older model) and never had these issues.

    As to the 40t inner ring, the problem you'll run into is the holes for the bolts will be counter-sunk on the wrong side to work as a big ring, you'd have to McGuyver longer bolts to try to get it to work and even then not sure it would. If you put it with the countersink on the outside where it should eb as a big ring, then the ramps will also be outside andthe teeth backwards.
    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    As I wanted new cables and housing, I took it to my LBS to have it done, so it was correctly installed.

    I might try a 42t ring then. BTW, Iīve found a stock 40t ring with ramps, but it is supposed to be a middle one. Would it work as an outer one if the derrailleur is correctly set?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  19. #19
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    Well, not everything is complaining.
    At least the bike does look good.
    I will give myself and her some time to think/try...

    From todayīs trip:

    Rip 9 owners: a couple of questions-photo.jpg

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    well, I have checked everything today and went for a long ride.
    Gap between the derrailleur and big ring was 2mm although I know in the photograph looks much more, must be the angle.

    The problem is only with the small ring: there are only two fully usable cogs with it.

    I can pedal perfectly with the 34t and 30t cogs (the first two), but in the following one the chain slightly touches the derrailleur when pedalling sit, and scratches it and makes a bad noise when pedalling in standing position.
    ((BTW, here we count the cogs like that: the first one is the biggest))
    In the fourth (26 I think) even sit makes an awful scratching noise. I think you should be able to pedal with the smaller chainring perfectly until the medium cog, this is the fifth.

    Do I have the only niner frame in which you canīt ride a normal transmission combo?

    Is this a design fail?

    Niner says they design their bikes for the most common transmissions, and I think this is the second most common one, the first one might be a 11-32 on the back, which would produce the same effect...

    Does any of you have a similar issue? Is my frame misaligned?
    Two things. I'm still going to lobby for you to "shove" that FD down about 1/8". And I would suggest running the sag on the RIP in the 30-33% position. At least, I find my RIP works better for me with that amount of sag rather than the 25% starting point that FOX suggests. Again, that's a starting point.

    It does seem odd that you cannot ride without rub on the FD beyond the 30T cog in the rear. I had originally set my RIP up with the Shimano XT using rings of 22/32/44 and the same FD, but suffered the dreaded chain "stuck" issue a few feet out of the driveway. After searching for the best position for the FD in the stand when setting it up, once sitting on the bike I had no problems with the granny ring having the chain rub.

    Even after swapping to the 30T middle ring and 40T outer ring - I did not change the location of the FD in terms of height and gap. It still sits where I had it for the initial 44T installation and I guess I never got around to lowering it a bit more. Hmmmm.....maybe I should lower it a bit, but everything works fine as is.

    Here's my set up. It's hard to tell from the pictures and paint color difference if the FD clamp on the downtube of mine is lower, but it looks to be a bit lower (maybe 1/8" or so) than yours:

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5664500343/" title="FD clearance on RIP by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5664500343_4c810151c0.jpg" width="486" height="463" alt="FD clearance on RIP"></a>

    I now use a Rotor Q Ring 23T granny ring for climbing, but even with the stock 22T Shimano granny and the same FD as you have - I've never experienced any rub issues with the chain on the FD cage while in the granny gear. Granted, I don't use the granny and 11 or 13T combo out on the trail, but I just went out and rode around in the street trying all those gears out. No rub on any cog in the rear while in the granny when sitting on the bike. But with the bike in the stand, the chain starts to rub on the FD cage in the 30T cog and the picture looks like yours above when in the granny and 11T cog in the rear. When I sit on the bike, no rub in all gears.

    Hmmmmm.....maybe you need to gain some weight.

    So, it looks like my FD is about 1/8" lower than yours and I run my sag around 30-33%. And I weigh about 185 all suited up.

    Not sure any of that helps, but just trying to figure out why I get no rub and you do. Sag, rider weight, FD height - any or all of those combined may contribute.

    BB

  21. #21
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    I have an 09 Rip9 with 22,32,44 up front and 11-34 cassette in back and found that you should try and stay in your 4 largest rear gears - cogs while in 22 granny up front or you might get chain rub on front derailur aslo tried 21 tooth granny - Action Tec TI and had way too much rub with smaller gear. You can also check to see if your chain is too long - try the big - big gear combo and shorten chain as needed. These bike are a bit finicky to set up but work great once you iron out the bugs. Oh yes, check your pivot bearings for grease or lack of. Mine came dry and squeeked right away - pack with grease and check every 6 months or so if you wash your bike a lot. Now Pedal Damm IT!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rip 9 owners: a couple of questions-004.jpg  


  22. #22
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    another option could also be going with a 24T granny... unless you often use granny/big cog, you shouldn't suffer too much... if an issue, try to get a cassette with a 36T big cog in combo with 24T granny...

    otherwise, all that was suggested above... lowering that FD as much as you can... smaller big ring... or ditch altogether... (on my Niner, I replaced the big ring with a bash guard, and replaced my 32T middle with a 34T, and kept the 22T small, and then went with a 2ring SLX FD)

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    Well... update:
    This weekend I lowered the FD to the minimum gap and let go just a bit of air of the shock, and I could use the third cog completely and the fourth while seated.
    That seemed good enough and went for a ride.
    I spent the whole morning on the bike on extremely muddy conditions, shifting up and down for 55km without an issue.
    I started the trip thinking about this and the other threads you reccommeded me, different possibilities and all that.... until I forgot about everything cause the bike performed so well.

    And then.... IN THE FACE !

    I was already on my street, 300m from home and changed to the big ring without any load on the suspension or a big push on the pedals and the chain got really stuck between the ring and the chainstay.

    It took me a good time to take it out and scratched the chainstay, and that made me think that if that had happened an hour before, on a steep climb applying real force on the pedals, I could have damaged something more than the paint.

    So Iīm removing the outer ring, setting the FD to two rings and figuring out if Iīm going to miss the big ring.
    So now my options are:

    2 rings (22-32 as I now have it or go for a 34 or 36)
    2 rings + bash
    3 rings with an outer 40.

    The thing that really pisses me off is that I sold my other two bikes and I should be enjoying my new one, not being worried everytime I shift if Iīm going to ruin a 2260 euros frame, which BTW is more than I earn a month....

  24. #24
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    Do not forget to let ALL the air out of the shock and bottom out the suspension and make usre you don't lower the FD too much to contact the chainstay. As for rings possibilites, depends on your terrain and if you need to ride a lot of road/double track on your rides and would need anything bigger than a 36t, if not my vote would be for a 22/36 ring combo and a Bash if you need it.

    On the price 2260 Euros is about $3365 US Hope you meant complete bike and not frame only, if not, man did they ever do the nasty to you without using any lube
    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    Well... update:
    ...............................So Iīm removing the outer ring, setting the FD to two rings and figuring out if Iīm going to miss the big ring.
    So now my options are:

    2 rings (22-32 as I now have it or go for a 34 or 36)
    2 rings + bash
    3 rings with an outer 40.

    The thing that really pisses me off is that I sold my other two bikes and I should be enjoying my new one, not being worried everytime I shift if Iīm going to ruin a 2260 euros frame, which BTW is more than I earn a month....
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  25. #25
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    link

    Thatīs another reason for niners not being very common here.

  26. #26
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    Serioussly, holy fock, you paid more than a complete bike sells for Dude, there was no other brand that isn't so rediculously overpriced like that? There's bound to be a few Euro brands that make a decent FS 29er Wouldn't it have been cheaper to buy it online via the US and have it shipped to you, pretty sure you gcould have landed it for less than $1400 US over MSRP Heck in just one search I turned up a complete bike for 3100 Euros http://www.29squadron.com/product.php?id_product=187

    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    link

    Thatīs another reason for niners not being very common here.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    I didnīt say I paid that, ;D

    Niner usa dealers are not allowed to sell outside your borders, but luckily you can find some frames on ebay. Even paying 22% customs and shipping is still worth it.

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    +1 on all the above. I just order a 24t and a 34t Blackspire Pro chain rings and going to get a bash maybe from Purely Custom. Never used the big ring. Chain suck on the trail, well sucks and can be so bad that you could have a long walk back to your car/truck. Do your reading and research on all your options. Everyones point on this chain suck is a valid point!!! Oh Nice Ride!!
    1983 Ross Custom Deluxe Mtb
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  29. #29
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    Not my borders Dude, please don't assume I'm from the US, I'm not.
    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    I didnīt say I paid that, ;D

    Niner usa dealers are not allowed to sell outside your borders, but luckily you can find some frames on ebay. Even paying 22% customs and shipping is still worth it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    orry, mate, I saw Barbados long time ago but I forgot.... Obadeleīs land ..

    Well, I ordered a Middleburn outer 40T yesterday and todayīs evening Iīm removing the outer until it arrives.

    Where I live trails are quite easy and on two of them I often use the big ring, but anytime I can I look for more "allmountain" or whatever you call it terrain, so I really need the 22. Thatīs why I finally decided for the 40.

    If even with it I get another chainsuck, Iīll go for the 34 or 36. Iīll keep you updated on the result.
    Thanks to everyone!
    Last edited by cachopo man; 05-04-2011 at 12:48 AM.

  31. #31
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    Don't think you'll have any issues with the 40t, haven't seen ANY reports of issues from anyone running one or smaller. With 42 and 44 you're tempting fate unless you want a whack chainline.
    Quote Originally Posted by cachopo man
    Sorry, mate, I saw Barbados long time ago but I forgot.... Obadeleīs land ..

    Well, I ordered a Middleburn outer 40T yesterday and todayīs evening Iīm removing the outer until it arrives.

    Where I live trails are quite easy and on two of them I often use the big ring, but anytime I can I look for more "allmountain" or whatever you call it terrain, so I really need the 22. Thatīs why I finally decided for the 40.

    If even with it I get another chainsuck, Iīll go for the 34 or 36. Iīll keep you updated on the result.
    Thanks to everyone!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    Well, I have an outer 40t ring installed eventually and guess what....

    issues still...

    Chainstay clearance now is ok but if you place the FD in its correct position (2mm from the top of the chain), you get horrible FD-middle ring rub.
    To avoid this, you must put the FD quite high and the chain can slip out. So basically I spent another 55 euros for nothing.

    Thatīs the reason why the bruzed rings are 30-40.

    I took a look at them, but I never thought about that!
    Also, I didnīt like the idea of buying two rings (as my 32 felt ok with a bigger ring),wait for intl shipping, new screws and having to file the cranks...

    Now, if you want to take my advice, if you want a triple crankset buy a set of Bruzed... or forget about the big one and put a bashguard... I think I heard this before...

    Iīm tired of this, so I will leave the outer 40t ring as a bashguard, lower a bit the FD and shorten the chain as with a 32 I will be able to remove some links.
    If I feel this is a little short, Iīll change it for a 34 and thatīs it. I just want to stop thinking about the bike and enjoy it a bit.

    Next time, before buying a bike Iīll read all the posts about it. I took some time to decide but never saw the post you mentioned above, although I read many reviews and posts, I never saw the 2x10 thing on ninerīs web...

    Funny thing is that I stopped buying bike magazines as I considered their opinions very biased, but web reviews are not very trustful either. This is one of the reviews I read before buying:




    from bikerumor: The RIP 9 has some specific front derailleur requirements: Top pull / bottom swing, high clamp mount.  All this means it just fit under the weld for the upper rocker arm pivot mount…though, technically, it looks like it could have been mounted a little lower…there was a lot of clearance between the outer plate and the big ring.  Shifting between all three rings was flawless during our ride, though.

    The bike seems to have suffered a chainsuck and with the FD that high I bet they can only use two gears with the granny. Is that flawless?

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