Reba for dummies (ie, FoShizzle)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reba for dummies (ie, FoShizzle)

    Just got a Reba. It is the Race Model with the remote poploc.

    I could piece together threads from using search perhaps but I am too lazy and inefficient to do so thus, the thread.

    So...basically, the stuff that I am trying to understand (at a third grade level if possible) is what to consider when setting up the fork related to the floodgate/compression. I see a compression thingie on the Poploc and of course the floodgate being separate.

    Are there any general rules/observations/guidelines that would be useful from your real-world experience?

    Thanks in advance,
    FoShizzle

  2. #2
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    In general: (though as you noted there is a BIG thread about this somewhere back there)

    Run floodgate all the way closed if you want the fork to come close to real "lock-out" by remote pop-loc

    Run Positive pressure at or slightly below rec. level from fork leg label

    Run Negative pressure 15-20 psi below Positive pressue

    And carry a fork pump with you for the first couple of weeks to play around with PSI

    BTW - are you already upgrading the Inbred "office bike"?

    LP

  3. #3
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    Turn knob(s) all the way to the right. Ride bike. Don't like the ride? Stop. Turn knob(s) one click, repeat riding and stopping and clicking until it feels good.
    A bike by any other name is still a bike.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigwheel
    Turn knob(s) all the way to the right. Ride bike. Don't like the ride? Stop. Turn knob(s) one click, repeat riding and stopping and clicking until it feels good.
    thanks....but am looking for Reba-specific input as it relates to the floodgate in concert with the comrpession settings in terms of what may work well for rider out there....specifically, what might be a good config for a single speeder if different.

    so the title should perhaps be labeled dumb, but not stupid (though some would disagree I am sure)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanpope
    In general: (though as you noted there is a BIG thread about this somewhere back there)

    Run floodgate all the way closed if you want the fork to come close to real "lock-out" by remote pop-loc

    Run Positive pressure at or slightly below rec. level from fork leg label

    Run Negative pressure 15-20 psi below Positive pressue

    And carry a fork pump with you for the first couple of weeks to play around with PSI

    BTW - are you already upgrading the Inbred "office bike"?

    LP
    thanks lanpope......helpful info.

    as far as upgrading, I actually bought the Reba along with the complete bike Inbred given the killer price. For now, the fork is on the One 9 since after yesterday's first ride on the Inbred it blew me away how much more compliant the bike is with a fork other than a KM (which was on my One 9). Sure there are other things that contribute to the ride but I definitely want to keep the Inbred rigid for now.

    As far as upgrades, I honestly feel I am done. All I did with the Inbred was replace the v-brakes that came with it for Hayes hydro, fleegle bars replaced by FSA K Force carbon riser, and the On-One 80mm stem with a Easton magnesium 120mm stem....which when combined with the sweet rigid fork that it came with, make for a perfect fully rigid setup.

    So my weekend chore is gonna be to learn the Reba.

    thanks again....gotta go....riding the Inbred at lunch break again!!!

    Cheers

  6. #6

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    Try the factory recommended settings

    FoShizzle,

    When Speedgoat sent me the Reba with my Asylum it came with a Rockshox handbook with recommended settings. I found the handbook recommended settings to be simple and very effective. The only change I have made is to add a little more air after about 10 rides - when the forks loosen up a bit.

    Six monthes later, lots of riding and numerous endurance events and no issues. You should be able to get the compression setup go from super plush to almost lock out if you follow the recommended setting.

    Best of luck - hope you can leave the fork pump in the workshop where it belongs.

    TC

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigtc
    FoShizzle,

    When Speedgoat sent me the Reba with my Asylum it came with a Rockshox handbook with recommended settings. I found the handbook recommended settings to be simple and very effective. The only change I have made is to add a little more air after about 10 rides - when the forks loosen up a bit.

    Six monthes later, lots of riding and numerous endurance events and no issues. You should be able to get the compression setup go from super plush to almost lock out if you follow the recommended setting.

    Best of luck - hope you can leave the fork pump in the workshop where it belongs.

    TC
    thanks for that honest and helpful feedback. I do indeed plan to start with recommended setting but given my incompetence in dialing ANYTHING in, I figured I would ask so thank again!

    cheers

  8. #8
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    Fo..

    I have found that the factory recommended air settings are generally waaay too high.

    Try this: Pump 80psi into positive chamber, 60 psi into negative chamber.

    Rebound damping set fast. [One click in from wide open, bottom r/h side forkleg.]

    Set the Poploc as follows:

    Route the cable throught the forkhole and attach the cable as per the instructions to the moveable Loc ring. When finished setting up, engage the remote Loc from the handlebar control. Make sure that you are getting full engagement..ie: the Loc is fully closed.

    Turn the wastegate to the right as far as it will go with the Poploc engaged. Now release the Poploc.

    Place a fairly loose zip tie on one fork leg so you can see the travel used.

    Go ride.

    You should see full travel on the slider on BIG hits. For normal trail riding you should get about half to three-quarters travel.

    When locked out, [mashing and climbing up hills] the fully closed waste gate will allow the forks to blow off only on big hits, otherwise the forks will act like rigid forks and not move...= no front-end bob.

    I HTH you.


    R.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    I have found that the factory recommended air settings are generally waaay too high.

    Try this: Pump 80psi into positive chamber, 60 psi into negative chamber.

    Rebound damping set fast. [One click in from wide open, bottom r/h side forkleg.]

    Set the Poploc as follows:

    Route the cable throught the forkhole and attach the cable as per the instructions to the moveable Loc ring. When finished setting up, engage the remote Loc from the handlebar control. Make sure that you are getting full engagement..ie: the Loc is fully closed.

    Turn the wastegate to the right as far as it will go with the Poploc engaged. Now release the Poploc.

    Place a fairly loose zip tie on one fork leg so you can see the travel used.

    Go ride.

    You should see full travel on the slider on BIG hits. For normal trail riding you should get about half to three-quarters travel.

    When locked out, [mashing and climbing up hills] the fully closed waste gate will allow the forks to blow off only on big hits, otherwise the forks will act like rigid forks and not move...= no front-end bob.

    I HTH you.


    R.
    wow....more excellent info! that is exactly what i was hoping for Rainman! so the values of 80 and 60psi....do those come from worked for you and since we only weight 5 lbs difference it should work for me?

  10. #10
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    What do you guys weigh?

    80 psi positive seems pretty low to me...

    I'm about 155lbs w/ gear (sans camelback) and I run it at about 100 pos and 85 neg...

    I am getting full travel (or at least I was the last time I used the fork in October) but I do not ride w/ suspension very much, and I hate a real squishy fork.

    What exactly does "plush" mean in the suspension context? Is there any difference between "plush" and "really squishy"? The Reba is the only sussy fork I have ridden since my '98 Manitou SX-R so I have no real frame of reference...

    LP

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanpope
    What do you guys weigh?

    80 psi positive seems pretty low to me...

    I'm about 155lbs w/ gear (sans camelback) and I run it at about 100 pos and 85 neg...

    I am getting full travel (or at least I was the last time I used the fork in October) but I do not ride w/ suspension very much, and I hate a real squishy fork.

    What exactly does "plush" mean in the suspension context? Is there any difference between "plush" and "really squishy"? The Reba is the only sussy fork I have ridden since my '98 Manitou SX-R so I have no real frame of reference...

    LP
    Rainman = 170 lbs, FoShizzle = 175 lbs

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    wow....more excellent info! that is exactly what i was hoping for Rainman! so the values of 80 and 60psi....do those come from worked for you and since we only weight 5 lbs difference it should work for me?
    Works for me, mate. Those are the exact settings I run every day.

    R.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanpope
    What do you guys weigh?

    80 psi positive seems pretty low to me...

    I'm about 155lbs w/ gear (sans camelback) and I run it at about 100 pos and 85 neg...

    I am getting full travel (or at least I was the last time I used the fork in October) but I do not ride w/ suspension very much, and I hate a real squishy fork.

    What exactly does "plush" mean in the suspension context? Is there any difference between "plush" and "really squishy"? The Reba is the only sussy fork I have ridden since my '98 Manitou SX-R so I have no real frame of reference...

    LP
    I like my suspension to be on the 'soft' side, or "plush" ... so that it soaks up everything I hit. I can't see the point in having suspension that is "stiff".

    I prefer the forks to be "invisible" to me, ie: soak up everything the front wheel comes in contact with...as far as is possible.

    The Reba has a fast rate, ie: as it compresses it gets harder to compress, if you follow me. So most of the damping is done in the first half of the travel, I find. So that first half of the travel needs to be soft. Any bigger hits will be compensated for ..or handled.. by the second 'harder' part of the compression cycle.

    I want to see full travel on the sliders after a ride if the trail is even just reasonably rough, otherwise the travel is just going to waste, imo. I like the forks to react to even small bumps, and soak up little ripples and roots without disturbing me.

    However, you may prefer a "harder" or "stiffer" feel than I do. The forks are very tuneable. Which is a good thing, as we can set them to our own preferences.


    R.
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  14. #14
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    I followed..

    The advice of everyone on a sweet thread where Rainman put in some good advice. It ended up having riders weights and the settings etc.
    Can't find the thread for the life of me

    Anyway, I started there with similar settings to Rainmans, I am 175 -180 plus gear.
    It felt right but I bottomed out a few times rolling steep rocks. And on a ride some people mentioned how much the bike was sagging when I sat on it and how soft it looked.
    Being open to advice since it is my first squish fork in 5 years I changed the settings.
    I am now at 100 pos and 60 neg and things are going great. My rebound is also set about 2 clicks back from fast.

    For what it's worth as a SS'er it bobs less when climbing now as well and I don't really bother with the lockout anymore.
    Last edited by gumby; 01-13-2006 at 05:44 AM.
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  15. #15
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    Rainman = 170 lbs, FoShizzle = 175 lbs
    Another data point... I'm 175-180 lbs and usually run the same settings as Rainman.

    If I want a firmer ride, I will run more like 100 pos / 80 neg.

    The recommended settings on my 2005 model are way off, IMO. I think the sticker on my fork leg recommends 150 or 160 pos air for my weight.


    Hey Rainman - does it make a difference that you have the poploc engaged when you adjust the floodgate? If so, I need to adjust mine again.

    I have my FG set all the way on, but still get probably 1"+ of travel when I am storming up climbs out of the saddle. I would expect it to be completely locked out (or very close to it) when the FG is on all the way. The Reba poploc seems to allow way more travel than the lockdown on my DUC32.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumby
    The advice of everyone on a sweet thread where Rainman put in some good advice. It ended up having riders weights and the settings etc.
    Can't find the thread for the life of me
    thread is here....
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...a+air+pressure

    that thread was a turning point for me as well, with my reba pressures.... Rainman and I are about the same weight, 80 psi pos, 70 psi neg works well for me.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK
    Another data point... I'm 175-180 lbs and usually run the same settings as Rainman.



    Hey Rainman - does it make a difference that you have the poploc engaged when you adjust the floodgate? If so, I need to adjust mine again.

    I adjust the gate with the Loc engaged...yes. You should do it like that.


    R.
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  18. #18
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    Reba Oil Change Interval?

    i have a 2006 Reba & its really nice. old fork was an Atom Bomb.
    so, what about changing the oil on this puppy? any thoughts?
    i use to (had the LBS guys do it) change the oil every six months. the oil was dirty & it wud have been better to change it even more often.
    i think the manual says every 25 hours or something...
    also, is it easy to do yourself?
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  19. #19
    jrm
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    The Reba manual on the sram

    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    Rainman = 170 lbs, FoShizzle = 175 lbs
    site is a big help..well at least for me it was..

  20. #20
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    low low

    Fo-

    Wholeheartedly agree that the stock settings are way too high. I'm supposed to be running 160/150 at my 220# body weight Instead I have subscribed to the "60/60" rule of thumb. Set pos at 60% of body weight, and neg at 60% of positive. For me that works out to about 132 pos and 80 neg. Works great. As far as compression/floodgate, I'd leave the compression wide open for max plushness, and the gate setting depends on how firmly locked out you like, and whether you actually use the lockout at all. I have found that I forget to unlock all too often, so it is a moot point. I actually will likely remove the poploc to make it as brainless as possible...

  21. #21
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    What Travel

    Are you guys running these forks at 80 or 100mm travel? I found I needed a little more air psi (due to less volume) at 80 mm. The psi numbers you are using are close to 25% different from mine.

  22. #22
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    Good job! Thanks

    Just wanted to thank you all for the excellent input. I greatly appreciate it. While much of the time I get great input, there are often a lot tangents thrown in the mix making the thread less useful (usually my fault by the way) but not this time. In any event, thanks again and I look forward to applying the aforemention Reba recipes!

    Love,
    FoShizzle

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch
    Are you guys running these forks at 80 or 100mm travel? I found I needed a little more air psi (due to less volume) at 80 mm. The psi numbers you are using are close to 25% different from mine.
    Mine are @ 100 mm travel.


    R.
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  24. #24
    AussieLostInNyc
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    Mine are @ 100 mm travel.


    R.
    Maybey that is why those settings didn't quite work for me. That and the fact we are all different.
    My fork is set at 80mm with pos 100 / neg 60 and a 180 plus gear rider.
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  25. #25
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    Makes Sense

    Running 25% more travel/volume your psi #'s are about 25% lower. I know this is not usually a rule, but it is funny how it does work out this time. I had the same # thing happen on my Fox forks set to different travels lengths.

  26. #26
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    Resurrecting this thread once again, because I read through it last night, made the Rainman recommended setting changes to my 2005 Reba SL in hopes of getting a really nice plush ride from the fork. I got this used, it was working fine, but I had that nagging question in my head - could I get it to feel more plush and work better.

    took the air out of the positive chamber first, then the air out of the negative chamber. Then proceeded to put about 90psi in the positive and 70 in the negative.

    here's where I think I've run into a problem.

    The positive chamber holds air just fine. But I fear that the negative chamber is no longer holding the proper PSI. In fact, I'm not sure it is holding any air pressure. I took the bike for a short ride and came back, installed the pump back on the negative valve and the reading was Zilcho PSI in the negative chamber.

    Am I doing something wrong? It should be inflate Positive chamber first, then Negative chamber second correct? Should I overinflate the Negative chamber to account for some pressure blowing off if you will when I remove the fork pump?

    Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    Mark

  27. #27
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    I found out last week that mine is doing that exact same thing....regardless of which I pump up first. But the fork still rides the same.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rconceptsinc
    I found out last week that mine is doing that exact same thing....regardless of which I pump up first. But the fork still rides the same.
    Still rides the same? How so?

    Mine felt more plush but also a little too squish for my tastes. Sort of got a wheezing or squishing or sucking sound when the fork rebounded.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by AD4E
    i have a 2006 Reba & its really nice.
    Oil changes should be at least every season, but the manual states number of hours as an indication of how often to do an oil change. My 2005 REBA is due for a checkup and possible oil change.

    Speaking of the 2006 model, mine arrived yesterday and I installed it on my Dos Niner. I turned the rebound adjustment knob and the thing popped right off. It snapped back into place on the groove, but it doesn't seem too secure to me. I have a concern in terms of possibly being able to "bounce" the knob off on a hard hit out on the trail.

    Has anyone had the knob pop off while out riding on the 2006 REBA model? I lost an adjustment knob on a Marzocchi a couple of years ago which I had to replace.

    BB

    P.S. I run my 100mm REBA on the Sugar 293 at the low end of the suggested p.s.i. for my weight in the positive and negative air chambers. I'm starting with that setup for the new 80mm REBA as well and will adjust from there.

  30. #30
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    I'd contact Rock Shox or have your LBS do it for replacement of the rebound knob.

    Forget about Rock Shox's recommendations for pressure. They're way off. Set it the positive to sag then set the negative to an equal pressure.

    As a reference, I'm close to 170 with loaded water pack & tools. With my Reba in 100mm mode I get an inch of sag at 130 psi. I then set the negative spring to the same pressure. Feels like butta.............

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Squeaky Wheel
    I'd contact Rock Shox or have your LBS do it for replacement of the rebound knob.
    I didn't lose it (yet), so there is no knob to replace. I was asking if anyone had experienced the knob popping off while out on the trail riding based on how easy it was for me to pop it off right out of the box while doing the installation last night.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Squeaky Wheel
    Forget about Rock Shox's recommendations for pressure. They're way off. Set it the positive to sag then set the negative to an equal pressure.
    Gee, too bad RockShox doesn't know what they're talking about, isn't it?

    I'm close to 130 p.s.i. in positive and negative as well on my 100mm. Although I have experimented with various settings above and below those numbers until I got the ride dialed in the way I want it.

    BB

  32. #32
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    When I rode my bike this weekend, the fork felt the same. Hopefully others will chime in as to whether or not we have a problem w/ our forks.

  33. #33
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    I'm going to try again tonight with some changes to positive air pressure and maybe a little more psi in the negative chamber to see how she feels, and reacts.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by rconceptsinc
    When I rode my bike this weekend, the fork felt the same. Hopefully others will chime in as to whether or not we have a problem w/ our forks.
    Small tip - sorta courtesy of wooglin - thanks wooglin! when adding air to the negative chamber, flip the bike over. See if that helps you - it helped me.


  35. #35
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    Reba..

    A Reba [and other air forks and shocks] rely heavily on you getting the correct amount of air into the respective chambers with your pump.

    If your pump isn't up to the job of doing this correctly, then you need to get a decent pump which will enable you to place the correct amount of air into the fork or shock reliably.

    Remember this: When you screw the pump onto the valve and it opens the valve letting the air in the fork into the pump, you will get a lower reading than what you have had in the fork, because some of that air will have gone out of the chamber and escaped into the pump as you screwed the connector on to the valve.

    This can lead to the erroneous assumption that you have very little pressure in the chamber of the fork.

    What I usually do when 'tuning' the fork is to take my pump with me on the ride. That way, I can tune 'on the trail' as I go along, until I find the setting that is suitable for me.

    Also, I find that if I over-pump the air chamber slightly, it makes up for the slight loss from the valve as I disconnect the pump. This loss varies from pump to pump, so you need to get 'familiar' with your particular brand.

    If you are willing to spend a little time and fiddle around with the settings, and get used to the 'feel' of the different air pressures on the trail, you can get it pretty close to 'ideal' for your weight.

    Reba's are very good forks, and very 'tuneable' if you spend some time with them.


    R.
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  36. #36
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    after fooling around w/ my pressure, i noticed that now the lock out isn't working ( it fully compresses when locked out). does this sound like something to have the lbs work on?

  37. #37

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    be sure that your lockout (big dial) is open before you adjust the floodgate (little dial).

  38. #38
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    Does anybody have a small amount of oil/fluid come out when setting the positive and negative air chambers?

  39. #39
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    A very small amount of oil is common. You will mostly notice it in the positive chamber on the top of the fork leg. Unless there is a large amount, there is no need to worry.


    R.
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  40. #40
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    mine doesn't lock anymore

    Quote Originally Posted by rconceptsinc
    after fooling around w/ my pressure, i noticed that now the lock out isn't working ( it fully compresses when locked out). does this sound like something to have the lbs work on?

    Mine locked out fine when I first got it,but now,after about 10 rides,the lock doesn't work.The knob is turning to the stop point,and I've adjusted the floodgate with it locked,unlocked,and everyway I can think of.No lockout.

    Mines a 2005.

    Also,I find it close to impossible to get pressure in the neg chamber.When I unscrew the pump,all the air eacapes,like the valve is not sealing..
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  41. #41
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    I agree with rainman, I wanted 100mm travel for 100mm of full travel so I make sure Im usin it all. As far as pressures and rebound, that varies greatly with what and where Im riding. Im 190lb and run 115/100 2 clicks from full fast on the smoother rides and 130/115 and 5 clicks from full fast on the rough stuff. Tire pressures and riding style definately part of the equation as well as bike type so variation is inevitable. If your are conciously feeling the suspension as you ride, prolly somethin aint right.
    Rule of thumb- 1 Lb. costs 2 sec. per mile of climb

  42. #42
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    absolutely.....

    part of it is, according to my sources, you need to have the bike/fork upside down with RockShox to do the negative chamber pressure or oil will enter.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfcas
    Mine locked out fine when I first got it,but now,after about 10 rides,the lock doesn't work.The knob is turning to the stop point,and I've adjusted the floodgate with it locked,unlocked,and everyway I can think of.No lockout.
    I don't have any idea what's happening mechanically or hydraulically to cause this change, but when I hang my bike vertically in the garage (front wheel up, therefore fork upside down-ish), occasionally my lockout is ineffective for the first few minutes of my ride. Some air and/or oil shifts around then suddenly the lockout works again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfcas
    Mine locked out fine when I first got it,but now,after about 10 rides,the lock doesn't work.The knob is turning to the stop point,and I've adjusted the floodgate with it locked,unlocked,and everyway I can think of.No lockout.

    Mines a 2005.

    Also,I find it close to impossible to get pressure in the neg chamber.When I unscrew the pump,all the air eacapes,like the valve is not sealing..
    thats the same problem i am having and mine is a 2005 as well. do you think its bad to keep riding it that way?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman

    Also, I find that if I over-pump the air chamber slightly, it makes up for the slight loss from the valve as I disconnect the pump. This loss varies from pump to pump, so you need to get 'familiar' with your particular brand.

    R.
    I disagree. There should be zero loss. This is because the schraeder valve closes before the pump gasket releases.

  46. #46
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    I dunno

    Quote Originally Posted by rconceptsinc
    thats the same problem i am having and mine is a 2005 as well. do you think its bad to keep riding it that way?
    I should call Sram or send it in,I think.I tried the upside down thing to get air in the negative,but it didn't matter.In the end,I have no idea if there is air in the neg,or how much.

    The first few times the lockout failed,I could "pump it up" by compressing the fork 15-29 times,like the owners manual said.Now it won't pump up.
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