Preliminary Test Results...on Selle AnAtomica.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    A couple more...


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    Preliminary Test Results...on Selle AnAtomica.

    The story, so far.

    Brooks has always been my saddle of choice on all my bikes. I have tried other 'plastic based' seats to keep up on the current trends, but always return to the Brooks as the standard by which I judge all others.

    Recently, I became interested in the work of a Mr. Tom Milton in the USA who has been conducting long-term testing on modified Brooks saddles. The aim was to improve the comfort and reduce the damage caused by regular bicycle saddles to the human reproductive system.

    I obtained this new saddle and rode it for some time, and have been very pleased with the performance, comfort and general improvement over the standard B.17 Brooks.






    I then learned that Tom had contacted the Selle Company about making some new saddles incorporating all that they had learned with the modified Brooks testing, but using a new softer waterproofed leather.

    I obtained one of the new Selle saddles to try out myself. They are made in Wisconsin in the USA, and use the new waterproof "SecondSkin" leather, which is softer and more compliant than the original Brooks leather.

    One of the first things I noticed was the different shape. It is slightly longer than the Brooks, in that it has a different shaped rear frame. The leather is definitely softer, and needs more tension on the adjuster bolt to achieve the same sort of 'feel' under your sitbones as the Brooks.

    Brooks owners only rarely adjust the tension on the leather, whereas the new Selle demands a lot of adjustment on the bolt straight off to get the saddle to have the correct feel. Once adjusted to the correct tension, the Selle is very tuneable. With just a turn either way on the adjuster bolt, the saddle can be made to fit each riders preference for a nice comfortable pedaling platform.

    Being used to the much firmer Brooks saddles, I set my Selle up in a similiar manner. This resulted in a nice stable saddle, but which is softer and more 'pliable' under your backside. Where the Brooks feels quite hard, the new Selle feels softer and has more 'give' in the leather.

    Being a new product, the saddle which I have been testing needs to have a couple of rough corners knocked off it. Firstly, it has a cut-away on the nose for access to the adjusting bolt with an Allen wrench. This cut-away has two rather sharp leather points which always seems to catch my nics when I am moving back onto the saddle from a standing position.

    I trimmed the points off mine, and it is a lot better.

    Secondly, the edges of the leather need to be chamfered a bit better than they are now. I attacked mine with a stone and smoothed the sharp edges down a little around the outside of the skirt.

    Thirdly, this saddle is not for weight weenies. It is about the same weight as a Brooks B.17 in steel. if you are used to riding a lightweight Ti-framed saddle, the weight of this Selle will be a bit of a shock. Nevertheless, better a comfortable all day saddle that is a bit heavier, than a lightweight 2 hour plastic 'seat'.

    I poured water onto the top of the saddle to 'test' the new leather. Yes, it works. It is waterproof. Water just runs right off it like off a duck's back.

    So far, I am very pleased with the testing. The leather is softer and very comfortable, is waterproof, and is very 'tuneable' for individual rider comfort. The cutout slot in the top works, taking the pressure off your 'sensitive' parts.

    I will continue testing this new Selle, and post up my results after I get a few hundred miles on the saddle. I am still playing around with the adjustments in my search for the perfect position and tension on the saddle.

    Here are a few pics...


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  3. #3
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    Here's my favorite.
    I've been experimenting with longer and longer rides and it remains awesome.
    I spruce up the casing every once in a while with some dirt and butt sweat and that seems to keep things in just the right shape.
    Sadly, it only weighs 166grams/6oz less than a ti Swift.
    But, it's a classic!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    Here's my favorite.
    I've been experimenting with longer and longer rides and it remains awesome.
    I spruce up the casing every once in a while with some dirt and butt sweat and that seems to keep things in just the right shape.
    Sadly, it only weighs 166grams/6oz less than a ti Swift.
    But, it's a classic!
    I agree totally! Ever since changing over to that WTB saddle a couple of years ago all of my 45 year old dangly parts work as good as new!

  5. #5
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    Glad it works for you, but......

    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    Here's my favorite.
    I've been experimenting with longer and longer rides and it remains awesome.
    I spruce up the casing every once in a while with some dirt and butt sweat and that seems to keep things in just the right shape.
    Sadly, it only weighs 166grams/6oz less than a ti Swift.
    But, it's a classic!
    It's still a "bucket saddle" which I do not like in the least. The Brooks, Selle Anatomica, Fizik Nisene, and clones are "flat" saddles which I really like. To each his own, Padre. I just wanted to point out that the saddle you pointed out couldn't be more different, from a basic standpoint.

    Rainman, this is very interesting to me. The leather sounds much more forgiving, and by the looks of your sitbone impressions on it, I'd have to say you are broken in from the get go, no?

    Is there a distributor for these, or do you purchase these direct? Are they even available yet? I'm very interested in a saddle that I can spend double digit hours on. This is looking like it could be it.
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  6. #6
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    Hi Ted, the Selle is currently available.

    Here is the website:

    http://www.mcmwin.com/


    R.

  7. #7
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    I'm with Padre on this one. Every saddle makes my "junk" numb except for the WTB Laser V Stealth Ti (I think that's what it's called?). I've never tried the Brooks, but it seems that any non-cut out saddle kills me taint on any length ride.

  8. #8
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    More pics on Comparison..

    These are pics on the comparison between the modified Brooks and the new Selle An-Atomica.

    You can see that the Selle is slightly longer, has longer seat rails, a slightly different tensioning mechanism, and the rear frame is also different from the Brooks.

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    Padre..

    Just so you know I try a lot of different things...

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    Also, notice the amount of tension on the adjusting bolt..
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    Hey Rain, perhaps you need to change your gearing so you are sitting less. Then there is zero pressure on your privates.....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    Here is the website:

    http://www.mcmwin.com/
    That is perhaps the worst website in bikedom...

    None-the-less, I'm very interested in their saddles -- please keep us up-dated on your experience. Can you tell us how much it weighs?

    Saddles are a personal thing, but it seems the bigger the bum the more padding a person wants. I can grow a gut while my bum stays boney and a padded bucket seat like that WTB of Padre's would be a pox on my skinny @ss...
    "The plural of anecdote is not data." -- Attributed to various people in a variety of forms, but always worth remembering...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeT
    I can grow a gut while my bum stays boney and a padded bucket seat like that WTB of Padre's would be a pox on my skinny @ss...
    This is the first I've heard of "bucket" seating.
    Can you elaborate?

  14. #14
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    Hey Rain, perhaps you need to change your gearing so you are sitting less. Then there is zero pressure on your privates.....
    Maybe, maybe...

    I normally run 32/20 though, and for where I ride it is tough enough for me.. I guess that I stand up 95% of the time.

    Come back and we'll talk about it when you are 62.. lol


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    He means that you sit "in it" rather than "on it".

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  16. #16
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    Bucket seat

    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    This is the first I've heard of "bucket" seating.
    Can you elaborate?
    Oh c'mon Padre, you know..............like a '68 Goat!

    No, really it's the type of saddle that makes it hard to slide back and forth on due to the "depression" in the central portion of the saddle that forces you to sit in one place all the time. Good for some........not so good for others. Yes, you sit on a saddle designed like WTB's new Devo saddle line and you sit in a saddle like the Rocket V Stealth.

    In all honesty, you can set a Brooks up to be either way depending on how you have it tensioned.
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  17. #17
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    Rainman,
    What is the width? What Brooks is it laying next to? I like the Brooks team pro, but it's a tad wide, makign it hard for me to get back onto after sliding off the back for a steep drop. The B-17 narrow is a good width, allowing easier "re saddling".

    That Selle sure is interesting. Waterproof and softer leather. Made in US. But if it's too wide, it's a non-starter for me.

    Thanks for any info.

    B

  18. #18
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    Weight vs brooks?

    This is very interesting to me... I've been running a brooks team pro for the last year and have only two issues, the weight and the copper 'junk shredder' brooks label on the back. Is there a label of any sort on the back of the selle? How much does the selle weigh?
    ~E
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDEnvEngr
    Rainman,
    What is the width? What Brooks is it laying next to? I like the Brooks team pro, but it's a tad wide, makign it hard for me to get back onto after sliding off the back for a steep drop. The B-17 narrow is a good width, allowing easier "re saddling".

    That Selle sure is interesting. Waterproof and softer leather. Made in US. But if it's too wide, it's a non-starter for me.

    Thanks for any info.

    B
    MD, it's a modified Brooks B.17. I don't know whether there will be a narrower model in the Selle, but I would guess that there will be once the production gets sorted out.

    Presently, they are busy getting this product out to the customers who have pre-ordered saddles, and sorting out the production problems etc...but once the initial rush settles down, we may see a range of models...I hope.

    R.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pisgahproductions
    This is very interesting to me... I've been running a brooks team pro for the last year and have only two issues, the weight and the copper 'junk shredder' brooks label on the back. Is there a label of any sort on the back of the selle? How much does the selle weigh?
    ~E
    There is nothing on the back of the Selle saddle.

    My Ti railed leather Brooks [B.17] compares favourably, as far as weight goes, with any of the other plastic-based production seats. The narrower Ti railed Brooks are very light.

    If the nameplate bothers you, why not remove it? There are only two rivets holding it on.

    I will weigh the Selle today. Don't expect it to be light, it is the steel railed model.


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    Last edited by Rainman; 08-21-2006 at 03:29 PM.

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    Weights on Saddles..

    I weighed three saddles ...

    Brooks Modified B.17 Ti rail/frame = 400g [Butchered and tied]. No cutout, "Swallowised".




    Brooks Modified B.17 Steel rail/frame = 500g [with cutout].

    Oem Selle An-Atomica Titanico Steel rail/frame = 425g [with cutout].


    The last two are the saddles shown in this thread.


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  22. #22
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    So the rails are steel? With a name like Titanico I expected Ti.

    From the pics it looks like it has longer rails than the Brooks. That is my main complaint with Brooks saddles--the rails are too short. Unless you have a bike with a super slack seat tube angle, you need a seatpost with generous setback, and even then I always jam my Brooks all the way back.

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    Like Rainman, I too have a Titanico. I have yet to give it any significant time, but so far I prefer its fit to the Brooks I was running. The rails are considerably longer, which as noted by DYG2001, makes for more adjustability that the Brooks did not have. I also like not having to worry about the weather, ie water, affecting things.

    My 2cents so far.

  24. #24
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    Wet

    Your privates may not be hurting anymore , but they sure get wet in the rain.

  25. #25
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    They get wet in the rain anyways, cut-out ..... or not.




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  26. #26
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    so rainman, will u be ebaying ur other saddles now that u found nirvana saddle?
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs
    so rainman, will u be ebaying ur other saddles now that u found nirvana saddle?
    Yes...


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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    In all honesty, you can set a Brooks up to be either way (flat or hammock) depending on how you have it tensioned.
    This is very interesting to me. The only thing about Brooks that I don't care for is the mild hammock shape. I would much prefer flat, and have tried to get that by tensioning the daylights out of them (B17 and Pro). This has never been succesful.

    How do you adjust them to get them flat?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    I weighed three saddles ...
    Brooks Modified B.17 Ti rail/frame = 400g [Butchered and tied]. No cutout, "Swallowised".
    Brooks Modified B.17 Steel rail/frame = 500g [with cutout].
    Oem Selle An-Atomica Titanico Steel rail/frame = 425g [with cutout].
    R.
    Holy crap those are heavy. Are you sure they aren’t using lead rails? People really rave about the comfort of those Brooks saddles… At that weight they better be more comfortable than my lazy boy.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six jours
    This is very interesting to me. The only thing about Brooks that I don't care for is the mild hammock shape. I would much prefer flat, and have tried to get that by tensioning the daylights out of them (B17 and Pro). This has never been succesful.

    How do you adjust them to get them flat?

    Tie-ing usually works to make the leather tighter, along with using the tension screw.


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  31. #31
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    Is their going to be a Ti version of the Selle AnAtomica? Were the bent rail issues adressed or just people mounting them improperly? Last question, would either the Selle or Brooks green match the godzilla green paint from Niner? Thanks guys, E

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by emwarble
    Is their going to be a Ti version of the Selle AnAtomica? Were the bent rail issues adressed or just people mounting them improperly? Last question, would either the Selle or Brooks green match the godzilla green paint from Niner? Thanks guys, E

    Hopefully, there will eventually be a Ti railed version. If you can't wait, then Tom at Selle will modify your standard Ti-railed Brooks with the same leather cut-out as the current Selle.

    The bent rails issue was a result of improper placement of the saddle on the seatpost in the one instance I read about, using a Thudbuster. Placing the saddle too far back on the post could result in a bent rail because of the weight and pressure exerted on the rails over large bumps.

    The Brooks and Selle green goes with the Niner Bikes Godzilla green very well ...


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  33. #33
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    Thanks, Rainman!

  34. #34
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    Thanks for all your sharing on this, Rainman. I'm going to be placing my order tomorrow. I do wish there was a Ti-rail choice. When I asked about weight, I got the asnwer that I totally expected - "weight is less important than comfort." While this is true, there's no reason not to have both. It isn't like Ti rails will make it less comfortable... just more expensive.

    I'm not sure Tom understands my emails. I hope talking with him directly will work better.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by darelldd
    Thanks for all your sharing on this, Rainman. I'm going to be placing my order tomorrow. I do wish there was a Ti-rail choice. When I asked about weight, I got the asnwer that I totally expected - "weight is less important than comfort." While this is true, there's no reason not to have both. It isn't like Ti rails will make it less comfortable... just more expensive.

    I'm not sure Tom understands my emails. I hope talking with him directly will work better.
    I asked Tom about Ti rails when I first felt the AnAtomica and his answer to me was much the same..."comfort over weight" ... which I tend to agree with. However, it would be nice to get a Ti railed Titanico, I must admit.

    There is an option available ... in that you can have him modify a Brooks Ti railed B-17 or one of the other Brooks with the Ti rails to the AnAtomica cutout. Unfortunately, it isn't quite in the same comfort league as the "real" Titanico, because the leather is different, as is the way the saddle itself is constructed.

    I have both types, modified Brooks and the Selle and the Selle AnAtomica Titanico is definitely more comfortable to sit on.

    I'm sure that you will be happy with your purchase. I absolutely adore my saddle. It has changed it's shape slightly as I have been riding it for quite a while now, and is even more comfortable than it was six months ago...

    I took a new sharp blade to the cutout and the saddle skirts and trimmed and rounded the slightly sharp finished edges off by dragging the sharp blade along the leather a few times, rounding the edges off nicely some time ago. That made it even better..


    Give it a few rides to dial yours in, and you won't ever look at another saddle again..


    R.
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  36. #36
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    Rainman: FYI, the stateside distributor, J&B Importers is showing the Selle An Atomica in it's catalog now. Should be available to any shop with a J&B account now.

    Also a question: I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger on one of these now that I can get it with my shop discount. What is the main concerns I should have between the rainproof and the non-rainproof models. I would be getting the Clyde version, by the way. Other than an occaisional shower, I don't see the saddle getting soaked, as it's going on a gravel grinder/long distance rig I'm having custom built.

    Thanks for your patience and insight on these saddles!
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    Rainman: FYI, the stateside distributor, J&B Importers is showing the Selle An Atomica in it's catalog now. Should be available to any shop with a J&B account now.

    Also a question: I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger on one of these now that I can get it with my shop discount. What is the main concerns I should have between the rainproof and the non-rainproof models. I would be getting the Clyde version, by the way. Other than an occaisional shower, I don't see the saddle getting soaked, as it's going on a gravel grinder/long distance rig I'm having custom built.

    Thanks for your patience and insight on these saddles!

    There isn't a great deal of difference between the waterproofed model and the standard leather model. If you think that you will be using it in mostly dry conditions, then the standard leather model will suit you fine.

    It just means that you have to treat the leather to some leather-dressing which is supplied with the new saddle ... about once a month to keep the leather supple and prevent drying out. If it does get soaked in an unexpected rainstorm, then it will have to be properly dried out before you use it again.

    However, if you prefer a completely maintenance-free saddle, the waterproofed one would be best.

    It really just depends on the amount of dry weather riding you do as to which one you choose.


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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    I asked Tom about Ti rails when I first felt the AnAtomica and his answer to me was much the same..."comfort over weight" ... which I tend to agree with. However, it would be nice to get a Ti railed Titanico, I must admit.
    As I said, I agree about comfort over weight. But as I also said - they don't have to be mutually exclusive. Yes, it takes extra money for Ti rails, and many of us are happy to throw money at weight savings. In this case, lighter rails reduces the comfort not at all (may improve it?) while shaving some weight. So, the "comfort over weight" thing really has no meaning here!
    -= Darell The EVnut

  39. #39
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    Another question for you, Rainman!

    What's the deal with the LD and ED slot anyway? Who would actually WANT a more rigid platform? This whole "sensitive butt" business has me wondering just where I fit in, since I have no butt sensitivity meter handy.

    And then there's the whole Clydsdale business. The over/under is 180 pounds. Surprise! Guess where I am? What are the pros and cons of going either way with the extra laminate?

    Yikes. I also just noticed what forum we're in. This is going to be even MORE expensive since now I have to go buy new wheels too!
    -= Darell The EVnut

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by darelldd
    Another question for you, Rainman!

    What's the deal with the LD and ED slot anyway? Who would actually WANT a more rigid platform? This whole "sensitive butt" business has me wondering just where I fit in, since I have no butt sensitivity meter handy.

    And then there's the whole Clydsdale business. The over/under is 180 pounds. Surprise! Guess where I am? What are the pros and cons of going either way with the extra laminate?

    Yikes. I also just noticed what forum we're in. This is going to be even MORE expensive since now I have to go buy new wheels too!
    The different slots give different amounts of flex to the saddle. The wider the slot, the flexier the platform, and the more it is suited to the majority of casual type riders.

    For example, riders of Brooks saddles usually prefer the more firm feeling saddle which you ride "on" whereas others prefer a saddle which you ride "in".

    The wonderful thing about the Selle is that it is very tuneable to the riders weight and style of riding, allowing you to set it up to suit the way you prefer to ride yourself.

    The "Clydesdale" laminates firm up the leather of the saddle by making it stiffer and stronger so that it doesn't 'sag' under a heavyweights' butt. I usually get the laminate under my saddles even though I weight 160 lb. simply because I am used to riding the stiffer leather of the Brooks saddles for years.
    Also, the under laminate helps to preserve the actual saddle leather itself, because it offers a layer of extra protection against water splash and slop.

    A Selle saddle without the Clydesdale laminate is going to be softer and more supple because it is thinner, but if you weight close to or over 180lbs you should definitely get the laminated saddle, otherwise you will stretch the leather too much....

    Ok?


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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    Ok?
    Yeah. OK... until I think of something else.

    Sounds like the laminate makes it stiffer while the LD slot makes it softer. But likely in different ways, and likely I'll never figure out which way I should go. Still trying to get Tom on the horn to discuss this directly. No love yet.
    -= Darell The EVnut

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    FWIW, I've ridden the Selle Anatomica saddle for over a year and will never consider any other saddle for my bikes. I recently contacted Tom reference a maxed-out tensioning screw. Tom suggested I return the saddle for replacement of the leather sling and upgrade to the clyde model (175#). The saddle was turned around in two days and the service could not have been better or more friendly. I highly recommend them and this saddle!

  43. #43
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    Thanks for the report. So which slot did you get... and why?
    -= Darell The EVnut

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    A LD (Long Distance) model. It's the one Tom recommended. The difference between the Clyde and standard model, with regards to feel is significant. Having had the standard and using it for a season, I'd recommend a Clyde for longevity reasons based on my experience. Going 175# and riding a rigid doesn't seem too abusive to have gone through a sling in a season (tensioning-wise anyway). Maybe the Clyde is more suitable to the offroad riding we do?

  45. #45
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    The extra leather laminate under the saddle [Clyde] certainly helps to stop the leather stretching over time...especially if you are a little heavier.

    For really light weight riders, 160lbs or less, it won't be much of a problem, but anything over that I would definitely get the Clyde model.
    One of my original Selle AnAtomica models had no laminate under the leather and it sagged fairly quickly. I used up about 4/5ths of the tightening adjustment in the first month of riding.

    What you have to remember with these saddles is that they are a "suspended leather" platform. They have no plastic base like the vast majority of mass-produced 'seats' currently sold as bicycle 'saddles'. The actual leather itself is what you are sitting on and that is what is supporting your weight. It really is a leather "hammock" and for this reason the leather has to be strong enough to do the job without stretching out too much.

    If you don't have enough support in the leather, it will keep on stretching over time until you have no more tightening adjustment left. To prevent this from happening, Tom came up with the under the saddle laminate to strengthen the base leather enough to prevent too much stretch, whilst still retaining the comfort and feel of the original leather.

    As far as the slots cut in the saddle go...I recommend that you get the biggest one. It allows both sides of the saddle to flex the most independantly as you pedal. The Selle AnAtomica Titanico [Clydesdale model] is the one, imo. All you really have to do is decide on the colour...


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  46. #46
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    I've been very impressed with my Titanico LD Clyde Watershed saddle at 260# of pure man. So much so that I've ordered a second one. I've been riding my 1st one on my FS gearie while waiting on a new SS and it is remarkably comfortable. This is after 5+ years as a WTB Ti V devotee.

    Built up the new SS today and put the WTB back on the gearie. The WTB feels like a brick. The Selle's combination of taint hammock effect and side to side movement is simply glorious. I literally don't even notice the saddle.

    I'd love a Ti version too but don't understand why anyone would go with a Brooks (even slit and circumcised) over a Selle. I've spoken to Tom and he's put a lot of thought into the anatomical functionality (hence the name). Why you'd spend this much to have a hard flat heavy saddle is beyond me.

    Anyone in the Mpls area is welcome to check mine out. I'll also be at the Black Hills FTF in a couple weeks - should have both bikes.
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    rainman, juz a qns for now...

    im a lightweight rider but if i were to order i would prefer the clysdale for longevity purposes but regarding the slots, between the LD and ED-S or even the ED, would the flexy effect of the LD slot affects the power transfer to the cranks with regard to road riding in this instance?

    still not sure which slots to go for for road riding...worst to worst go for the middle 1, the ED-S....

  48. #48
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    You did ask Rainman, but I'm curious as to how any saddle would directly affect power transfer beyond the secondary (or less related effect) of the rider's comfort on power output.

    Quote Originally Posted by mojak
    rainman, juz a qns for now...

    im a lightweight rider but if i were to order i would prefer the clysdale for longevity purposes but regarding the slots, between the LD and ED-S or even the ED, would the flexy effect of the LD slot affects the power transfer to the cranks with regard to road riding in this instance?

    still not sure which slots to go for for road riding...worst to worst go for the middle 1, the ED-S....
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    You did ask Rainman, but I'm curious as to how any saddle would directly affect power transfer beyond the secondary (or less related effect) of the rider's comfort on power output.
    comfort is good but riding a full-susser on the road for example is comfort too at the expense of bobbing on yer rear.....if the comfort of the LD slot don't have a bobbing effect as a softail bike then good...but if there is a slight effect, then maybe the ED-S is better or even ED for firm but yet comfort ride..

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojak
    rainman, juz a qns for now...

    im a lightweight rider but if i were to order i would prefer the clysdale for longevity purposes but regarding the slots, between the LD and ED-S or even the ED, would the flexy effect of the LD slot affects the power transfer to the cranks with regard to road riding in this instance?

    still not sure which slots to go for for road riding...worst to worst go for the middle 1, the ED-S....
    In answer to your question, no...there is no loss of power through the flexing of the saddle for either road or offroad riding that I have experienced at all... none.

    What the flexing of the leather is designed to do is to release the pressure placed on the riders anatomy by each 'wing' or side moving independantly with the riders' body as he/she pedals. The saddle stays at the same height, there is no power loss through the movement of the 'wings' as such, just an independant flexing that conforms to the pedaling action of the human body in motion.

    If you watch the videos on the site which were made when the AnAtomica was being tested, you can clearly see what I mean by flexing.

    As far as the slot size goes, I prefer the largest one, as it gives the most flex, but other riders may prefer a less flexible saddle.



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  51. #51
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    Good job! I had mine for 4 months now & counting...

    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    The wonderful thing about the Selle is that it is very tuneable to the riders weight and style of riding, allowing you to set it up to suit the way you prefer to ride yourself. R.
    Ray,

    I had mine on for a but a month and noticed that I was getting a little chaffing like pain on the upper inside of the legs... nothing major but I emailed Tom and he suggested lowering the saddle a wee bit...worked like a charm. That is one very comfortable saddle. Although the Ti would be nice, I haven't really noticed the weight effect... but I have noticed the comfort effect!

    Best from sunny SoCal,


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    thanx rainman...i roughly get the idea now...

    will test on my concor saddle to estimate how much of a flex i will need when pedaling...

  53. #53
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    95% there...

    I've had a Titanico LD for about a year, and it's been an absolute revelation. I've been switching it from bike to bike to bike, always reluctant to take it off Bike X, yet always reluctant to ride Bike Y if it doesn't have the Titanico on it. Kind of a hassle, but it'd be a big investment to outfit my entire "quiver" with them. A few notes and questions have come up, which I'd like to share:

    a) Tom told me that a Ti version of this saddle would retail for over $300, and it wouldn't be in the same ballpark- or league, even- as a Laser V Ti, Flite Ti, or what-have-you. He gave me chapter and verse about how a heavy saddle doesn't slow you down... apparently, rider weight's very important, rotating weight's important, but having a big ol' boat anchor of a seat is NOT important.

    b) I'm told that Ben Serotta has one of these on his personal Serotta, that Craig Calfee has one on his personal Calfee, that Grant Peterson's got one on his Rivendell, and that Seven recently outfitted its entire demo fleet with Titanicos. Additionally, one of these four framebuilders will not ship a complete bike with any saddle other than a Titanico!

    c) As G-Ted pointed out, J&B does carry them now, in Watershed AND normal versions, in your choice of black or mahogany.

    d) Nitpicky question #1: I've developed a sqeak. It's rhythmic, protesting with every pedal stroke, and seems to go away if I shift my weight forward or back. I've taken apart my seatposts, greased every metal-to-metal contact point, and reassembled, but the squeak persists. (note: despite the squeak, I've continued to do this "musical chairs" number, swapping the saddle here and there. I'm a person who hates creaks and squeaks, but apparently, I hate riding without a Titanico even more!) So, Rainman or whoever else, what's up with the squeak, and where am I supposed to install the grease to get it to finally shut up?

    e) Nitpicky question #2: Selle An-Atomica makes three different shapes, in addition to a bunch of different cutouts. It seems like Titanico is the most popular, but there's also Robusto, Settebello, and one called Primavera that seems to be a "coming attraction." Sometimes, it feels like the Titanico's too big; I find that on my road bike, I still want a saddle shaped like a Flite, and on steep, technical singletrack descents, I'd prefer something a little smaller and a little softer (the back of the Titanico is muy rigid, so the thighs can get scraped as I transition off of the saddle, and I'm always hoping that nothing brings my bike to a sudden stop mid-descent-- seems like a sudden impact with the back end of a Titanico could really do a number on my pelvis, my guts, or worse!). So, this thread's discussed different cutouts, but what about different models? Can anyone speak to, "oh, well, if you like a Flite shape, you want to get a Settebello, but if you like a WTB you'd probably prefer a Robusto?" Having spent a bunch of time on a Titanico, I'm not sure that one shape/model works equally well on all bikes, in all situations. Class? Anyone? Bueller?

    f) Has anyone got a link to the recent Rivendell Reader article about the Titanico? I'd like to check that out.

    g) I think I prefer the Brooks leather tape to the An-Atomica version, because the Brooks appears to be tapered at the edges, making for a nice, Cinelli-esque appearance, whereas the An-Atomica tape seems to be a uniform thickness all the way through, making for a "chunkier" appearance, at least in pictures I've seen. It's a little OT, but can anyone tell talk about the subtle differences between leather handlebar tapes?

  54. #54
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    [QUOTE=2:
    d) Nitpicky question #1: I've developed a sqeak. It's rhythmic, protesting with every pedal stroke, and seems to go away if I shift my weight forward or back. I've taken apart my seatposts, greased every metal-to-metal contact point, and reassembled, but the squeak persists. (note: despite the squeak, I've continued to do this "musical chairs" number, swapping the saddle here and there. I'm a person who hates creaks and squeaks, but apparently, I hate riding without a Titanico even more!) So, Rainman or whoever else, what's up with the squeak, and where am I supposed to install the grease to get it to finally shut up?

    e) Nitpicky question #2: Selle An-Atomica makes three different shapes, in addition to a bunch of different cutouts. It seems like Titanico is the most popular, but there's also Robusto, Settebello, and one called Primavera that seems to be a "coming attraction." Sometimes, it feels like the Titanico's too big; I find that on my road bike, I still want a saddle shaped like a Flite, and on steep, technical singletrack descents, I'd prefer something a little smaller and a little softer (the back of the Titanico is muy rigid, so the thighs can get scraped as I transition off of the saddle, and I'm always hoping that nothing brings my bike to a sudden stop mid-descent-- seems like a sudden impact with the back end of a Titanico could really do a number on my pelvis, my guts, or worse!). So, this thread's discussed different cutouts, but what about different models? Can anyone speak to, "oh, well, if you like a Flite shape, you want to get a Settebello, but if you like a WTB you'd probably prefer a Robusto?" Having spent a bunch of time on a Titanico, I'm not sure that one shape/model works equally well on all bikes, in all situations. Class? Anyone? Bueller?

    f) Has anyone got a link to the recent Rivendell Reader article about the Titanico? I'd like to check that out.

    g) I think I prefer the Brooks leather tape to the An-Atomica version, because the Brooks appears to be tapered at the edges, making for a nice, Cinelli-esque appearance, whereas the An-Atomica tape seems to be a uniform thickness all the way through, making for a "chunkier" appearance, at least in pictures I've seen. It's a little OT, but can anyone tell talk about the subtle differences between leather handlebar tapes?[/QUOTE]





    I sometimes get the squeaks in my Titanico too. I usually ignore it for a while and it goes away, but sometimes I have to squirt a touch of dry lube around the attachment points on the front of the saddle where the adjusting bolt is and also a little on the rails where they attach to the post. This gets rid of it for weeks...depending on the weather..

    Shape...and size are really dependent on what you want to do ... and what you normally use. If your usual saddle is a narrow one then the Titanico is going to seem a bit large to you I guess. I got used to the Titanico pretty quickly and don't have any problems getting off the back of it, but then I run my sadle quite low usually...because I tend to stand up a lot when riding.

    Maybe you and some other riders could be better off on a narrower model. The best guy to talk to about this would probably be Tom at Selle. He can tell you what he recommends for you to be more comfortable.

    I havn't used the tape myself, so can't help you with that.


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    It is inevitable ...

  55. #55
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    Right on Rainman!

    Based on Rainman's reviews and recommendation of this saddle, I bought a Titanico (Waterproof Clyde model) last month and it ROCKS! No numbness on long rides and comfortable out of the box - a huge difference from the Brooks B-17 I had been riding. What more could one ask for? Thanks Rainman.

  56. #56
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    Where can I look at/ buy these saddles?
    Lenny

  57. #57
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    Mine has the squeaks too, but otherwise I love it. Will try some dry lube on it this afternoon before the ride home.

    GREAT SEAT.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by brontotx
    Based on Rainman's reviews and recommendation of this saddle, I bought a Titanico (Waterproof Clyde model) last month and it ROCKS! No numbness on long rides and comfortable out of the box - a huge difference from the Brooks B-17 I had been riding. What more could one ask for? Thanks Rainman.





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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatchanceti
    Mine has the squeaks too, but otherwise I love it. Will try some dry lube on it this afternoon before the ride home.

    GREAT SEAT.
    mine has the same squeak too ... it seems its from the leather of the saddle rubbing the metal piece just above the adjusting screw. i can re-produce it with just my hand pressing ont he saddle.

    i'm going put a piece of cloth between them and see if that cures it.

  60. #60
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    Now my local shop says you have to get the B17 Special because it's made by "old pasty faced English guys in a basement" and that's whey there are the best. Does Sella An-Atomica have any pasty faced old guys making them?

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastskiguy
    Now my local shop says you have to get the B17 Special because it's made by "old pasty faced English guys in a basement" and that's whey there are the best. Does Sella An-Atomica have any pasty faced old guys making them?
    The Selle AnAtomica is made in a cave deep in the earth by old Trolls. They have pasty green faces that glow in the dark..

    Anything else you want to know, just ask....


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  62. #62
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    Taking the edge off...

    Alright, I'm giving the Titanico a try...on the cyclocross bike for now. Got in a nice 35 miles of gravel grinding goodness on Saturday. Made a few little tweaks to position and tension and...wow!...this may be just the ticket. Even got rained on for a while so could test out the 'waterproofedness"...so far so good.

    As noted by others, the edges are sharp. Rainman, you referenced using a "stone" to take them down a bit. What do you mean? Anyone else have ideas?

    R

  63. #63
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    Anyone have a problem with the adjustment screw backing off? Seems I have to readjust my saddle way to often sometimes I even have to do it mid ride. Any solutions?
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJR
    Rainman, you referenced using a "stone" to take them down a bit. What do you mean? Anyone else have ideas?
    Sharpening stone, whetstone, etc.

    I use a few gradually finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper, ending at ~1000 grit, it makes a very smooth, rounded edge.

    I also carve around the tip of the saddle to get rid of the notch that annoyingly catches my shorts, than sand/smooth that as well.

    No more catching!

    That being said, I'm selling my Anatomicas and going back to Tune Speedneedles. I like a firmer platform...RC

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerCan
    Anyone have a problem with the adjustment screw backing off? Seems I have to readjust my saddle way to often sometimes I even have to do it mid ride. Any solutions?
    If your adjustment screw is backing off, run a Nylex lock nut onto the adjusting bolt thread and lock it down against the saddle frame. That prevents the adjuster from moving and slacking off the saddle leather.


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2xPneu
    Sharpening stone, whetstone, etc.

    I use a few gradually finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper, ending at ~1000 grit, it makes a very smooth, rounded edge.

    I also carve around the tip of the saddle to get rid of the notch that annoyingly catches my shorts, than sand/smooth that as well.

    No more catching!

    That being said, I'm selling my Anatomicas and going back to Tune Speedneedles. I like a firmer platform...RC
    Have you tried adjusting the leather up tighter? You can get it pretty tight if you like a firmer platform.

    I usually run my AnAtomica's pretty tight because I'm used to riding Brooks saddles which are very firm.

    However, I tried going back to a "firmer platform" just to see how it felt after riding the AnAtomica for so long....it nearly killed my butt and after a couple of rides I changed happily back to the Selle ..

    You don't realise how good the Selle is until you try riding on something else ...


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  67. #67
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    Damn and Drat.
    I've bent the rails on my second Selle An-Atomica. Bugger!
    The first time I did this I was using a short travel thuddy and had the saddle laid all the way back, I was 240lbs + Camelbak. So all in all I'm not surprised the rails bent.

    Very kindly the guys at Selle said, send us the saddle and we'll replace it for free this time. I did and I also sent them my Brooks to get converted. They also told me to stop using the thuddy with their saddles and get a seatpost with a wider clamping area.

    The new saddle arrived and I went back to using it on a straight Thomson post, which was less than ideal, but a good stop gap until the layback Ti post arrived from Blacksheep. The post arrived last week and first ride today, oh what a dream, very comfy. Seat clamped roughly in the middle of the rails, a little higher than usual, but things felt great.

    Then I got to the top of a hill where I know there is a fallen tree at the bottom, I haven't yet attempted it since I started riding fully rigid, but things are going really well today so I drop the saddle an inch and go for it. Get up on to the tree straight off, but as I'm coming down the other side the saddle rebounds into the underneath of my thigh and the rails bend.

    They're not too bad, about a degree out of line so maybe I can bend them back, but I probably will only use this saddle for commuting on.

    I really don't want to put anyone off buying a Selle An-Atomica. They are incredibly comfortable and their laminate is excellent for repelling water, but I have bent the rails twice now.

    It may have something to do with me dropping the saddle and the way it impacted with my thigh. It may be because I'm using a layback post. It maybe because I'm a clyde (although I'm 220 now and no longer use a Camelbak). It maybe be just that I've been unlucky (and I mean unlucky because I'd really like to be riding this saddle). But I would suggest people keep in mind my experience if they tick these boxes.

    I know other people have had great experiences with this saddle, I'm just not one of them, although, I would like to be. Back to the Brooks for me.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatchanceti
    Mine has the squeaks too, but otherwise I love it. Will try some dry lube on it this afternoon before the ride home.

    GREAT SEAT.
    I now own three of these saddles, and they all squeaked. A puff of graphite powder around the screw area fixed the problem completely.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerCan
    Anyone have a problem with the adjustment screw backing off? Seems I have to readjust my saddle way to often sometimes I even have to do it mid ride. Any solutions?
    Wow. Not even a little of that problem here. In fact, I lubricate all mine so they're easier to adjust - they were a bugger when dry.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  70. #70
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    I picked up an An-Atomica Titanico (watershed for clydes) saddle a month ago. I rode the hell out of it and then one ride while climbing out of saddle the tension screw dropped out of the saddle... The welds that hold the ring that the screw goes through had broken. The shop I purchased it from called them up and my new saddle is here - should have it on by this evening. They wanted the broken one shipped back to inspect it - as this problem has happened to only one or two other saddles he wanted to see the failure himself. I'm hoping this isn't a design flaw or a batch of bad welds... They sent me a new saddle promptly and I really feel taken care of... I love the saddle so I hope this new ones holds up better than the last.

  71. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    The Selle AnAtomica is made in a cave deep in the earth by old Trolls. They have pasty green faces that glow in the dark..

    Anything else you want to know, just ask....


    R.

    thanks for the information rainman. Im using a brooks swift currently which is great on the sitbones but tough on the pudendal nerves.. Im debating getting mine cut or just buying a Titanico LD.

    my question is.. Is there a difference in leather softness between the 'second skin' and the non waterproof model. I ride in Tucson and we just dont get much rain and the maintenance doesn't bother me at all.

    thanks

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    Have you tried adjusting the leather up tighter? You can get it pretty tight if you like a firmer platform.

    I usually run my AnAtomica's pretty tight because I'm used to riding Brooks saddles which are very firm.

    However, I tried going back to a "firmer platform" just to see how it felt after riding the AnAtomica for so long....it nearly killed my butt and after a couple of rides I changed happily back to the Selle ..

    You don't realise how good the Selle is until you try riding on something else ...


    R.
    I've had it pretty tight, but because of the combination of annoyinq squeaks I couldn't get rid of, the ultra long rails I was afraid I'd bend, and mucho weight (not a big factor, but a factor nonetheless), I went back to Speedneedles. They feel hard at first go, but are actually pretty comfortable, allow easy gliding movement but not so slippery as bare CF, and fit my Germanic a$$ well.

    I had to return 2 Anatomica saddles because the Clyde laminate was peeling, and sold the new replacements on ebay.

    I have my original EL which I gave to my wife and she loves it, no issues with peeling laminate in well over a year of use in all kinds of weather. No squeaks either. Maybe the older saddles are better?

    Meanwhile I've got 2 more Speedneedles on order...RC

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by momod
    thanks for the information rainman. Im using a brooks swift currently which is great on the sitbones but tough on the pudendal nerves.. Im debating getting mine cut or just buying a Titanico LD.

    my question is.. Is there a difference in leather softness between the 'second skin' and the non waterproof model. I ride in Tucson and we just dont get much rain and the maintenance doesn't bother me at all.

    thanks

    If you don't have the wet weather to worry about, then go for the plain leather saddle.


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  74. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    If you don't have the wet weather to worry about, then go for the plain leather saddle.


    R.
    I appreciate it.. im buying i it now..

  75. #75
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    First two rides on mine

    I got the un-waterproof clyde model, have two days of riding so far...an 80 miles last week then a 50 miler today. So after really feeling some abrasion after ride #1 I trimmed down the edges a bit with a knife and tightened up the leather a few turns too. Ride two was a whole lot better! We noodled around and did 50 in 3 1/2 hours and I wore my super thin Rivendell wool undies and my Rivendell knickers (they're super thin nylon-like (or maybe real nylon?). So no padding or nuthin' and I felt pretty good. A bit more edge smoothing and some off the middle (as my sides are overlapping just a bit) (of the saddle that is...) and I think I'll be just right. It's a heck of a lot softer than my Brooks and seems to move along as I pedal nicely.

    So I'm happy, I like it, but I have a history of liking saddles for awhile then deciding they're killing me and getting something else. But so far, I'm diggin' it! My rodeo buddy said that most horse saddles come with pads but the best ones don't. They're just made better and more comfy and don't need a pad because the leather is the right shape and stiffness. I don't know if it's true but I like the story anyway.

  76. #76

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastskiguy
    I got the un-waterproof clyde model, have two days of riding so far...an 80 miles last week then a 50 miler today. So after really feeling some abrasion after ride #1 I trimmed down the edges a bit with a knife and tightened up the leather a few turns too. Ride two was a whole lot better! We noodled around and did 50 in 3 1/2 hours and I wore my super thin Rivendell wool undies and my Rivendell knickers (they're super thin nylon-like (or maybe real nylon?). So no padding or nuthin' and I felt pretty good. A bit more edge smoothing and some off the middle (as my sides are overlapping just a bit) (of the saddle that is...) and I think I'll be just right. It's a heck of a lot softer than my Brooks and seems to move along as I pedal nicely.

    So I'm happy, I like it, but I have a history of liking saddles for awhile then deciding they're killing me and getting something else. But so far, I'm diggin' it! My rodeo buddy said that most horse saddles come with pads but the best ones don't. They're just made better and more comfy and don't need a pad because the leather is the right shape and stiffness. I don't know if it's true but I like the story anyway.


    thats good to hear, I Just purchased a black clydsedale untreated titanico. Im a lean 6'0 and 195 but pretty physical, I really hope this allows me to ride farther with less pain..

    thanks, Ill post my impressions..

  77. #77
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    Good job! Tips...Tuning and stuff..

    As a long time user of the Selle Titanico I am very familiar with the tuning and setup procedure for these fine leather saddles.

    One of the things that I have noticed is that there are some owner/riders who have the sides of the cutout rubbing or getting 'hung up' on each other. Nine times out of ten this is simply caused by not having enough tension on the saddle leather.

    How much tension is enough?????

    Comfort comes first, but you should have enough tension on the leather so that at full weight on the saddle, the sides of the cutout don't hit each other as you pedal. So, if you see that the sides of the cutout at the narrowest point have been rubbing or getting hung up on each other, add some tension to the adjusting bolt a little at a time on every ride until it stops.

    Do you have a squeak in your AnAtomica? Is there a mouse in your Selle?

    This saddle is a suspended leather hammock type and that's what in part, makes it so comfy. However, as it is a suspended leather platform, it flexes and moves underneath your butt and can rub against the front tensioning bolt mechanism...ergo...a squeak.

    The best way to get rid of the 'mouse' is to puff some powdered graphite onto the area around the tensioning bolt. 99.999999% of the time, this will fix it.

    Setup of this saddle is the key to comfort. It is adjustable in several ways. Height, Nose up and down, alignment, rail position and tension. Getting it right is a matter of tuning it to your body. It takes a little time and patience, but pays off.

    Leather is nicely compatible with the human body. It also adjusts to your shape over time and becomes more comfortable as it conforms to you. If you look after it leather will last for many many years.

    If you have a plain leather Titanico, treat it with a good leather conditioner top and bottom every month to keep it supple and to prevent drying and cracking. If the saddle is one of the waterproof models, a wipe over with a damp clean rag is all it needs.

    Smoothing the edges of the leather around the sides of the cutout and around the saddle is best done with fine wet and dry paper, or a fine stone. Rounding off the edges of the leather makes it more comfortable against your tender bits.

    There is a small cutout on the front of the saddle that gives access to the tensioner bolt. I always trim this area and round it off slightly so that it doesn't catch on my lycra shorts.

    One more thing ..............

    The Titanico has nice long rails that enables you to set it up easily on your seatpost. However, if you are a clyde/heavyweight rider, it is NOT a good idea to have the saddle set a long way back on the rails to get a good seating position. Go out and buy yourself a set-back post if this is how you have yours set up. The rails will bend, just like most other saddles if subjected to heavy loading at the ends of the rails.

    Apart from this proviso, you shouldn't have any problems with the saddle. I have been pounding mine for quite a while in all weather conditions and have not had a single problem. The leather is top quality and retains it's shape and flexibility well.

    If you do have any trouble, contact Tom at Selle, he's a good bloke...

    [As always, I have NO connection or affiliation with Selle and pay for my saddles just like everyone else.]


    R.
    It is inevitable ...

  78. #78

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    As a long time user of the Selle Titanico I am very familiar with the tuning and setup procedure for these fine leather saddles.

    One of the things that I have noticed is that there are some owner/riders who have the sides of the cutout rubbing or getting 'hung up' on each other. Nine times out of ten this is simply caused by not having enough tension on the saddle leather.

    How much tension is enough?????

    Comfort comes first, but you should have enough tension on the leather so that at full weight on the saddle, the sides of the cutout don't hit each other as you pedal. So, if you see that the sides of the cutout at the narrowest point have been rubbing or getting hung up on each other, add some tension to the adjusting bolt a little at a time on every ride until it stops.

    Do you have a squeak in your AnAtomica? Is there a mouse in your Selle?

    This saddle is a suspended leather hammock type and that's what in part, makes it so comfy. However, as it is a suspended leather platform, it flexes and moves underneath your butt and can rub against the front tensioning bolt mechanism...ergo...a squeak.

    The best way to get rid of the 'mouse' is to puff some powdered graphite onto the area around the tensioning bolt. 99.999999% of the time, this will fix it.

    Setup of this saddle is the key to comfort. It is adjustable in several ways. Height, Nose up and down, alignment, rail position and tension. Getting it right is a matter of tuning it to your body. It takes a little time and patience, but pays off.

    Leather is nicely compatible with the human body. It also adjusts to your shape over time and becomes more comfortable as it conforms to you. If you look after it leather will last for many many years.

    If you have a plain leather Titanico, treat it with a good leather conditioner top and bottom every month to keep it supple and to prevent drying and cracking. If the saddle is one of the waterproof models, a wipe over with a damp clean rag is all it needs.

    Smoothing the edges of the leather around the sides of the cutout and around the saddle is best done with fine wet and dry paper, or a fine stone. Rounding off the edges of the leather makes it more comfortable against your tender bits.

    There is a small cutout on the front of the saddle that gives access to the tensioner bolt. I always trim this area and round it off slightly so that it doesn't catch on my lycra shorts.

    One more thing ..............

    The Titanico has nice long rails that enables you to set it up easily on your seatpost. However, if you are a clyde/heavyweight rider, it is NOT a good idea to have the saddle set a long way back on the rails to get a good seating position. Go out and buy yourself a set-back post if this is how you have yours set up. The rails will bend, just like most other saddles if subjected to heavy loading at the ends of the rails.

    Apart from this proviso, you shouldn't have any problems with the saddle. I have been pounding mine for quite a while in all weather conditions and have not had a single problem. The leather is top quality and retains it's shape and flexibility well.

    If you do have any trouble, contact Tom at Selle, he's a good bloke...

    [As always, I have NO connection or affiliation with Selle and pay for my saddles just like everyone else.]


    R.

    thank you so much for taking the time, Im really looking forward to trying this saddle out. I agree on Tom so far, he has been great at taking time dealing with my emails..

    also, thanks for the tip on the graphite and 'fine' grain sandpaper, I was planning on doing it dry with fine grain, ill wet the sand paper now..

  79. #79
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    I find that tension is very important and you'll need to add a lot of tension to a new Anatomica unlike a Brooks which you may tension once or twice a year and then only a 1/4 turn at a time. My Anatomica needed several full turns and seems to occasionally loosen itself during rides. It once looked like a swayback horse after about 20 miles on the road. I put some locktite on the threads and tensioned again and it stayed put and does not squeak. I have not MTB on one yet but do love it on my road bike. I am going to try it on the MTB here shortly.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    One of the things that I have noticed is that there are some owner/riders who have the sides of the cutout rubbing or getting 'hung up' on each other. Nine times out of ten this is simply caused by not having enough tension on the saddle leather. R.
    So...I've got some rubbing, maybe 2mm of overlap when I'm sitting in it. I've tightened it a few turns and it isn't too firm or anything. It's still way (waaaay) more flexible than any saddle I've ever felt. You think I should try another few turns before busting out the packing knife? Once you tighten it can you loosen it or is the leather permanently stretched?

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastskiguy
    So...I've got some rubbing, maybe 2mm of overlap when I'm sitting in it. I've tightened it a few turns and it isn't too firm or anything. It's still way (waaaay) more flexible than any saddle I've ever felt. You think I should try another few turns before busting out the packing knife? Once you tighten it can you loosen it or is the leather permanently stretched?
    The leather will take quite a bit of stretching without harm. If you have 2mm of overlap then there probably isn't enough tension on the saddle yet. Some of them ...most of them, come from the factory untensioned properly. When not tensioned up the cutout tends to rub and hang up/overlap when loaded up with your bodyweight.

    Add some tension and let me know how it looks. The saddle leather should feel firm but not hard, and the cut away should have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the two sides.


    R.
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  82. #82
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    Another question for rainman

    Rainman - I just got one a month ago and I love it. It's on the MTB and I've done a 50 mile race and several long jeep road rides - so lots of sitting down on a bumpy surface - along with the usual assortment of trail rides. No bent rails, total comfort. Well worth the weight. The only issue I'm having is that when I have it adjusted for the optimum comfort the sides of the cut out rub together. It's about a 3mm section that touches. When I get it tight enough not to rub it's a tad bit too stiff. So the question I have is am I doing damage to the leather by having that small section touching? It seems to be making the leather a bit thicker right there and I dont want it to start coming apart. Should I cut the opening a bit wider?

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by timroz
    Rainman - I just got one a month ago and I love it. It's on the MTB and I've done a 50 mile race and several long jeep road rides - so lots of sitting down on a bumpy surface - along with the usual assortment of trail rides. No bent rails, total comfort. Well worth the weight. The only issue I'm having is that when I have it adjusted for the optimum comfort the sides of the cut out rub together. It's about a 3mm section that touches. When I get it tight enough not to rub it's a tad bit too stiff. So the question I have is am I doing damage to the leather by having that small section touching? It seems to be making the leather a bit thicker right there and I dont want it to start coming apart. Should I cut the opening a bit wider?
    I'm no Rainman, but I do have three of these saddles now, and can speak with a bit of experience. When tensioned for my comfort, all of my saddles had no slot overlap... except one. Adding enough tension to get rid of the overlap had me riding on a brick, so I did the logical thing (and what is suggested on the Selle Anatomica site) - I trimmed the edges of the slot where they hit. Just ran an Exacto down both sides (easy to see where it rubs since the leather is fat and smooth there). Problem solved.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  84. #84
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    Good job! Tweak it...

    Exactly so ... A bit of a trim with a new sharp blade where the leather is binding in the cutout slot and you should be fine..

    If the sides of the cutout are binding or rubbing hard against each other, then the halves of the saddle are not able to work freely and independantly of each other as you pedal.

    The saddle is very 'tuneable' for every rider. Some like it set up a little softer and others like it a bit more firm, the beauty of the leather is that it lends itself to individual tuning for the most comfortable seating platform.

    The best idea is to first find the leather tension you prefer on the saddle, then once you have that parameter correct, make your leather adjustments from that point. Don't rush it. These saddles are leather, and as such, they 'work in' as you put miles on them.

    I prefer my own AnAtomica to be set with some right-hand nose offset on my bikes. This makes the saddle look slightly out of line with the frame when seen down the line of the bike, but that is the way I prefer it to feel.

    I also like to have the leather tensioned slightly on the harder side of 'firm'.

    My wife prefers her Selle set up softer, in slightly more nose down position than my saddle. It is really up to the individual rider where and how you set up your own saddle, everyone's body is different and our riding styles varied.

    I have put a lot of miles in on my AnAtomica, and still think that this is the best saddle I have ever used.




    R.
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  85. #85
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    q 4 rainman

    Hate to ressurect this thresd, but after buying one of these on your recommendation, and only riding it for a few months, i have to tension the screw all the way out to get the proper tension on this thing...Your pics show at the most a half screwed out screw..Did i somehow stretch my leather? i only weigh 175 and am wondering if this has happened to anyone else with these saddles..Maybey i got a deffected one or something....

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by dosboy
    Hate to ressurect this thresd, but after buying one of these on your recommendation, and only riding it for a few months, i have to tension the screw all the way out to get the proper tension on this thing...Your pics show at the most a half screwed out screw..Did i somehow stretch my leather? i only weigh 175 and am wondering if this has happened to anyone else with these saddles..Maybey i got a deffected one or something....

    Send it back to Tom at Selle. It sounds like the leather has stretched ... maybe a defective cut of the leather on your saddle.
    Is it the waterproofed leather model, or the standard leather one?
    If it is the standard leather one and you got it soaked and rode it then it will stretch out of shape.

    If it is the Watershed leather, then it needs to be replaced by the manufacturer under warranty.

    Don't worry, Tom will look after you. Contact him asap.



    R.
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  87. #87
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    contact info

    whats his email, or should i call? whats the best way to get a hold of him?

  88. #88
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    Here is the site contact info.


    http://www.mcmwin.com/contact%20us.htm



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  89. #89
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    I had the same thing, where the screw is nearly backed all the way out, and the leather still doesn't have enough tension in it. As I live in West Africa right now, there's no way to return it or get a new one. So I gave up on it. This was the waterpoof model, and it never got wet.

    Is there some reason these guys can't arrive more highly tensioned so that you'd have a lot of length on the screw to work with? something closer to a Brooks?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by D_Man
    I had the same thing, where the screw is nearly backed all the way out, and the leather still doesn't have enough tension in it. As I live in West Africa right now, there's no way to return it or get a new one. So I gave up on it. This was the waterpoof model, and it never got wet.

    Is there some reason these guys can't arrive more highly tensioned so that you'd have a lot of length on the screw to work with? something closer to a Brooks?
    I've been adding a turn here and there until the sides don't overlap when I'm in the saddle, I've got a few threads left and I'm not overlapping anymore but they do touch when I'm sitting. So maybe I'll add a few more. It is a pretty comfy saddle, no doubt, but it does feel super soft....waaaaay softer than a Brooks. I'm not sure if this is normal or not...

  91. #91
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    tom rocks

    I just have to say rainman is right, this company totally stands behind its product. My leather for some reason on the clydee watershed model got way stretched to where the tension screw backed all the way out still wouldnt tension it to my desired amount. tom said no problem, and is shipping me out a replacement model right now. I Love that there are still businesses out there that take care of their customers instead of looking for excuses to get out of it.....Great saddle, great company , great warranty...I urge anyone to buy one of these fine saddles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  92. #92
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    Questions on Selle An-Atomica

    Partly due to the positives expressed in this thread, I just did an inaugural 37 miles on my SAA - got the Titanico LD Trad Standard, non-watershed (I'm 140lbs).

    As far as comfort is concerned, I'm VERY encouraged after the first ride. FWIW, halfway into the ride, I tightened up the tension bolt two turns because it seemed to be sagging a bit too much.

    I was wondering about two things and would appreciate any comments:
    1. After the ride I noticed that if I looked at the leather running along the left and ride side of the long center cutout, the left side seemed to be riding about 1/4in higher than the right. Is it normal for the leather to not be even across the cutout? I believe it was even before the ride.

    2. The only place I felt a little pressure when riding was the actual lateral saddle borders (frame) near the back of the seat, where they dug a little into the sides of my butt cheeks. It wasn't really painful, but noticeable and wondering if it might get bad on a long (century) ride. No pressure on my sitbones (amazing). Is it normal to feel the pressure there?

    Thanks again for everyone contributing earlier to this thread - this looks to be one of the best cycling purchases I've made in a long time.

  93. #93

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    Quote Originally Posted by BarryG
    Partly due to the positives expressed in this thread, I just did an inaugural 37 miles on my SAA - got the Titanico LD Trad Standard, non-watershed (I'm 140lbs).

    As far as comfort is concerned, I'm VERY encouraged after the first ride. FWIW, halfway into the ride, I tightened up the tension bolt two turns because it seemed to be sagging a bit too much.

    I was wondering about two things and would appreciate any comments:
    1. After the ride I noticed that if I looked at the leather running along the left and ride side of the long center cutout, the left side seemed to be riding about 1/4in higher than the right. Is it normal for the leather to not be even across the cutout? I believe it was even before the ride.

    2. The only place I felt a little pressure when riding was the actual lateral saddle borders (frame) near the back of the seat, where they dug a little into the sides of my butt cheeks. It wasn't really painful, but noticeable and wondering if it might get bad on a long (century) ride. No pressure on my sitbones (amazing). Is it normal to feel the pressure there?

    Thanks again for everyone contributing earlier to this thread - this looks to be one of the best cycling purchases I've made in a long time.

    mine will shift slightly left and right if the tension is too low..

    well, after about 1000 miles and back to back weekend centuries I cant express how delighted I am with this saddle. It does take some tweaking to get just right so play with it until its perfect..

  94. #94
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    I have a bit over 90 miles on the saddle now and I just wanted to follow-up on the first issue I raised in the previous e-mail. I can better describe it as a marked asymmetry in the stretching of the right and left halves of the saddle leather. The left half is relatively taut and level and the right half is a sagging hammock. There is a 7mm drop off across the central cutout between the left and right half, and this is after re-tensioning. The tension bolt is already at its halfway point. The saddle is comfortable, but I have to pose the question about its structural integrity being compromised by the cutout.

  95. #95
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    I have a problem with the nose shifting left and right. I've compared with my friend's Brooks, they have an extra nut. So I thought that mine was missing. Went back to the shop, all were the same, no nut.

    The LBS tighten it for me, the nose didnt shift as much, but then, since there is no sag, it gets a bit painful to sit on.

    I was thinking of putting a nut, or something to prevent the front screw from moving, any other ideas?

    Can anyone take a pic of the underside of the saddle? I would like to compare, thanks
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  96. #96
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    opps, just check the first page of this thread. My brand new saddle bolt is out nearly 2/3 of the way. Is that normal? According to the LBS, its the watershed, clydesdale model
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  97. #97
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    What is the long-term durability of these saddles with the middles cut out compared to standard Brooks saddles?

    All this talk about adjusting the tension bolt is scary. When I bought the special wrench for adjusting the Brooks tension bolt, I was advised to place it in a hidden spot deep in the back of my tool box and leave it there.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  98. #98
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    If the rails don't bend it will probably last a long time. I have had 3 of these and all of them had bent rails within 6 months. I am a clyde but I am also a wheels on the ground type of rider.
    To see what is right, and not to do it, is want of courage or of principle. -- Confucius
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  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs
    I have a problem with the nose shifting left and right. I've compared with my friend's Brooks, they have an extra nut. So I thought that mine was missing. Went back to the shop, all were the same, no nut.

    The LBS tighten it for me, the nose didnt shift as much, but then, since there is no sag, it gets a bit painful to sit on.

    I was thinking of putting a nut, or something to prevent the front screw from moving, any other ideas?

    Can anyone take a pic of the underside of the saddle? I would like to compare, thanks
    There is no lock nut, nor much need for one. What is the problem with the nose shifting? It does - I agree... but what does it effect? I find that if I lean on it, or sit crooked to stretch, that the nose may shift. But nothing else happens. If you are worried about the aesthetics of it, reach down with a free hand and straigten it. Tightening the nose just to fix THAT problem isn't the answer! The saddle comes with extensive directions - how to adjust and tighten the saddle. The tension bolt belongs wherever it makes the saddle comfortable for you. And it will be different on each saddle and for each rider. There's no sense incomparing where that bolt is to others. It is similar to asking how high your stem is, or how high your seat tube is. It'll be different for everybody - even those of the same size.

    And as a side note - there is no special tool to adjust these (unlike the Brooks). It is just a metric hex bolt like everything else on the bike.

    I'm sure you can get a set of instructions by writing to the company. But your LBS should have them... and should maybe read them!
    -= Darell The EVnut

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by darelldd
    There is no lock nut, nor much need for one. What is the problem with the nose shifting? It does - I agree... but what does it effect? I find that if I lean on it, or sit crooked to stretch, that the nose may shift. But nothing else happens. If you are worried about the aesthetics of it, reach down with a free hand and straigten it. Tightening the nose just to fix THAT problem isn't the answer! The saddle comes with extensive directions - how to adjust and tighten the saddle. The tension bolt belongs wherever it makes the saddle comfortable for you. And it will be different on each saddle and for each rider. There's no sense incomparing where that bolt is to others. It is similar to asking how high your stem is, or how high your seat tube is. It'll be different for everybody - even those of the same size.

    And as a side note - there is no special tool to adjust these (unlike the Brooks). It is just a metric hex bolt like everything else on the bike.

    I'm sure you can get a set of instructions by writing to the company. But your LBS should have them... and should maybe read them!
    First time I'm using a leather saddle, didnt know what to expect. I've read in this thread, someone's tightening bolt was way forward, and had to be changed

    LBS didnt pass any manual to me, its a new thing to them to, btw, I'm in Singapore.
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  101. #101
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    Okay, thought I'd weigh in here since I've puchased one, a Clydesdale watershed Robusta.

    The saddle is by far and away the most comfortable saddle I have ever tried. I mounted mine to a vintage Syncros seatpost sorta forward and the rails sit with more overhang forwards than rearwards. So far no bending with a handful of offroad rides in. I weigh 240lbs.

    The saddle seems to need a lot of adjustment on the tension bolt at first. I've settled in at about 3/4s of the way through the adjustment. The saddle seems to have stabilized here for the time being.

    The saddle pivots around that tensioning bolt, which I think is part of the design to allow the saddle to move side to side with your hips. I thought maybe the monkey motion was detensioning the saddle somewhat, so to keep my mind at ease I installed a jamb nut from the backside to stop the bolt from possibly detensioning. The saddle still twists on this bolt to some degree though.

    My only beef is that the saddle has developed an annoying creak which I have not found a solution for yet. I think it is the edges of the leather rubbing on the outer corners of the rear frame, but I am not sure yet.

    Too many other bikes to ride now so I have not pursued the solution to the problem as yet.
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  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    My only beef is that the saddle has developed an annoying creak which I have not found a solution for yet. I think it is the edges of the leather rubbing on the outer corners of the rear frame, but I am not sure yet.
    All three of mine squeek/creak. I'm convinced that it is from the leather over the smooth part of the metal flanges (basically the two frames - one front, one rear - that the leather is stretched over). I've gotten some dry graphite in there, and solved it for a while. But it keeps coming back depending on the humidity. Still working on it!

    Too many other bikes to ride now so I have not pursued the solution to the problem as yet.
    Yeah... that's a tough problem to have. Get the violins!
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  103. #103
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    Wink Selle Unatomica Titanico

    Great thread. I just got my "Titanico LD Watershed Leather Laminated" without the cutout, and black rivets, Black on black, looks awesome - really awesome.

    I've had a number of saddles to compare, Selle Italia SLR, SLR Carbonio, Fizik Arione, Arione Carbon Braided, Fizik Antares 00, Turbo, Brooks B17, B17 Special, B17 Titanium, Professional, Sprinter Titanium, Swallow Titanium. The Arione is the most comforable saddle, ever. But it needs to be on a racy bike, neither of which I have.

    I really like the softness of the watershed leather - from WISCONSIN! - and the two dimples in the leather. The laminate is an acquired taste as it's tan like a shoe maker template, when the saddle is black. The rails are very long, maybe twice the length of Brooks, which is a welcome surprise but the strength of it is questionable re: previous posts about bent rails when loading the saddle way forward or back.

    I wasn't stoked on the quality as the leather was cut sloppy - sharp edges, not polished or chamfered, and the Titanico stamp has a defect - blunt circle took out the "o". Both of which I wouldn't release to the customer if I was in QA at the Wisconsin "factory". But still, it's not something I would return a saddle over, I'll still ride the saddle for what its worth but... It ain't no Gilles or Brooks.

    Also, I was taken aback on how easily the front saddle can turn left and right on the tensioning bolt. At first, I thought the saddle was tweeked or bent askew from my first ride, but it was just turned on the bolt. My finger can move the front left and right easily. I think guitarted alluded that this feature was by design.

    Today's morning ride with sparkyjay , I was ecstatic with the saddle: comfortable, no noise, no squeeks. However, on my ride home from work, I had to load my backpack with a lot of weight, maybe 50 lbs. Later on tonight's singletrack group ride, the saddle was very noisy, creaking and squeeking like my old Brooks B17. Arrrggggh!!!! Maybe I tweeked the saddle from the heavy backpack load??

    Check out a pics of the leather work on the new saddle.
    Preliminary Test Results...on Selle AnAtomica.-img_1013.jpg
    Preliminary Test Results...on Selle AnAtomica.-img_1012.jpg
    Creator Producer: Will of the Sun WoS, Author Platform Pedal Shootout 1M+ MTBR thread

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